VERSION 2.

0 MARKS & SPENCER NOVEMBER 2015

ECP
MINIMUM STANDARDS
MINIMUM STANDARDS AND BEST
PRACTICES
FOR
TANNERIES

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MODULE CONTENT

Introduction .................................................................................................................... 3
1 Worker Safety .............................................................................................................. 5
1.1 Machine safety .............................................................................................. 5
1.2 Fire safety ...................................................................................................... 7
1.3 Personal protective equipment (PPE) ......................................................... 8
1.4 General safety ............................................................................................... 9
1.5 Engineers and contractors ......................................................................... 10
2 Quality Systems ........................................................................................................ 11
2.1 Standard operating procedures (SOP) ...................................................... 11
2.2 Batch cards .................................................................................................. 11
2.3 Work in progress ......................................................................................... 12
2.4 Chemicals .................................................................................................... 12
2.5 Incoming water ............................................................................................ 13
3 Raw leather & tanning .............................................................................................. 14
3.1 Tanning ........................................................................................................ 14
3.2 Post tanning & dyeing ................................................................................ 19
3.3 Recipe prediction & formulation) ............................................................... 21
3.4 Weighing dyes & chemicals ....................................................................... 21
4 Dyeing ........................................................................................................................ 23
4.1 Dye selection ............................................................................................... 23
4.2 Chemical selection ...................................................................................... 24
5 Quality Control .......................................................................................................... 24
5.1 Colour continuity......................................................................................... 24
5.2 Quarantine ................................................................................................... 24
Appendix A Batch cards ............................................................................................. 25
Appendix B Colour continuity card ............................................................................ 27

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1 INTRODUCTION
This module explains the Marks & Spencer minimum standards and best practices for tanneries. As
legislation and best practice are continually evolving it is vital to ensure that the latest versions of the
standards are being used and are consulted frequently.

Minimum standards
The minimum standards highlighted in this document must be met in order for a tannery to supply Marks
& Spencer. Non compliance to the minimum standards can result in orders being cancelled and a supplier
being de-listed from the Marks & Spencer supply base. Marks & Spencer will not place orders with
companies who fail to declare full details of production routes. It is also important to note that the
minimum standards are minimum standards: we expect tanneries to aim to exceed these standards and
aspire to being world class suppliers.

The Marks & Spencer approach for managing standards is one of ensuring ongoing compliance and
improvement. Meeting the minimum standards is easy to achieve and, with very few exceptions, issues of
non-compliance can be rectified very quickly with minimal cost, provided there is a genuine desire to solve
the problem.

In the event of failures, a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) will need to be developed and implemented over
an agreed time period to ensure factories have an opportunity to meet the Marks & Spencer requirements.
However, if the CAP is not completed to the satisfaction of Marks & Spencer, the result may be the
cancellation of orders and the supplier being de-listed.

General Best Practices

As well as the minimum standards this module also identifies best practice guidelines for each section.
This best practice has been developed over many years, with input from many sources including
machinery builders, chemical and dyestuff companies, consultants and tannery managers themselves. As
factories can have very different designs, machinery types and processes, the best practice in this module
is a guide rather than a formal instruction, and should be treated as such when being considered for
implementation within your tannery.

In general, the best practice for factories has been developed from the same principle approaches to
process management. Below is some general guidance on a number of aspects of preparation tanning
that can improve quality, reduce consumption of water, energy and chemicals and help improve
productivity.

 All raw materials (dyes, chemicals, substrates, hides etc) should be checked for conformance and
consistency
 Substrates and hides should be accurately weighed before processing
 All dyes AND chemicals must be accurately measured or weighed
 Selection of chemicals and dyes should consider toxicity, COD/BOD and other potential hazards
 There must be clear, written procedures Standard Operating Procedures (SOP) for ALL
processes
 In-house testing and access to accredited testing facilities is essential
 All finished batches must be examined prior to dispatch

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Environmental Compliance
Poorly managed tanning of leather can have a significantly negative effect on the environment. The
impact on water quality, water availability, air quality, soil contamination and even noise has an effect on
the workers, management, the local community and even the world at large. Therefore, Marks & Spencer
has strict requirements regarding the protection of the environment, and expects its suppliers to adhere to,
and aspire to exceed these requirements. Module 4 – Environmental Management contains more
information regarding Environmental Management and should be read in conjunction with this module.

Minimum Standards Requirement

All leather used for Marks & Spencer products must be compliant with the Marks & Spencer
Leather Sourcing Policy

All finishing tanneries must comply with Marks & Spencer minimum standards and particular attention
must be paid to effluent treatment. There is a relatively high proportion of solid waste produced during
leather processing and this waste must be disposed of in accordance with local regulations.

But, as with textiles processing, there are some simple best practice guidelines that will help a tannery
achieve the standards required by Marks & Spencer:

 Safe, well controlled machinery

 Accurate weighing, dispensing and dosing of chemicals
 Consistent water and raw materials
 Standard operating procedures
 Robust quality systems
 Continuous improvement programmes to improve quality and reduce consumption

Training and best practice information is available from the BLC leather technology centre
http://www.blcleathertech.com/ and we recommend you seek specialist advice to improve your factory
and optimise your processes.
Information is also available from an EU document highlighting best available techniques in the tanning
of hides and skins that can be downloaded from
http://old.vpvb.gov.lv/ippc/bat/bat_ES1/

Please refer to M&S ECP Module 7 Chromium Vi Management :A Practical Guide

https://supplierexchange.marksandspencer.com

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1. WORKER SAFETY
Marks & Spencer take the issue of worker safety extremely seriously. It is vital that finishing tannery
managers focus not only on producing quality products that meet the Marks & Spencer specifications, but
they do so in a way that does not put their workers at risk.
Arguably the most important factor in workplace safety is a documented safety policy or manual. The
policy must ensure the correct equipment and training has been provided for the workers and that clear
rules are in place for taking disciplinary action against workers who continually disobey safety rules.
Marks & Spencer expects senior tanneries management to take responsibility for managing worker safety
and the promotion of the factory safety manual and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Formal safety
training should be given to workers. It should cover their specific tasks as well as the general safety
principles.

1.1 Machine Safety

Minimum Standards Requirement

There must be safety interlocks on high temperature and pressurised machines
Machines must be electrically safe
Moving machine parts must be adequately guarded
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) requirements must be clearly signed
Machines must undergo regular services and maintenance

1.1.1 Pressurised Machinery

Pressurised equipment, such as dyeing machinery that operates above 80oC, can cause serious injury if
pressure is released in an uncontrolled manner. In some countries there is legislation that requires
pressurised equipment to have safety interlock fitted. Marks & Spencer insist that interlocks are employed
on all such pieces of machinery.

1.1.2 Electrical safety

Electrical safety practices not only ensure the safety of the workforce, but also help to prolong the life of
electrical systems, and can ensure quality and efficiency of processes.

Common electrical problems include:

 Bare wires and poor insulation.

 Short circuits caused by wear & tear and poor servicing. Dirt and debris
can bridge live wires leading to a serious fire risk, so it is important
equipment is kept clean at all times.
 Control panel doors left open due to overheating exposes electronics,
Old fashioned,
which could electrocute workers or cause a fire hazard. Therefore exposed electrical
regular machine maintenance is imperative. circuitry are a
serious risk

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 All electrical work must be done by certified

professionals.
 Water sources near machinery lead to high risks of
electrocution. It is imperative that water is kept away
from electrical sources.

The use of circuit breakers, which shut off the current

when any short circuit is detected are strongly
recommended. A control panel door left open to
prevent over-heating

Excellent information on electrical safety is available at www.hse.gov.uk/electricity/index.htm

1.1.3 Machinery with moving parts

It is vital that moving parts on all machinery are guarded wherever possible. Examples of safety risks and
solutions are:

 In-running nips can crush fingers and hands and these should always be guarded.
 Hydro extractors without lids can cause loss of limbs. Lids must be present on all hydro
extractors, and lids with an interlock switch to ensure the machine cannot be operated with the lid
open are recommended.
 Cogs, pulleys and other moving parts can trap fingers, limbs and clothing and should always be
guarded.
 Use of guards, interlock switches and ‘dead man’s handles’ to ensure the machines cannot be
operated when moving parts are exposed are recommended by Marks & Spencer.

In-running nip: The red line shows a

safety trip device to stop fingers Hydro extractor with no lid: Poses Unguarded cogs on a continuous
being trapped an unacceptable risk to worker wash range: Pose an unacceptable
safety risk

1.1.4 Hazard Signs, training and PPE

Regular maintenance and servicing of machines can save lives and reduce the likelihood of injury as well
as increase machine productivity and reliability. In addition to ensuring machines are electrically and
mechanically safe, all potential hazards must be clearly signed and workers given adequate training to
ensure the risk of injury is minimised. Also, all workers must be trained in the use of Personal Protective
Equipment (PPE) and be supplied with the necessary PPE for their roles. Systems and procedures must
be in place to ensure all workers use the necessary PPE at all times.

Information and links to useful documentation can be found at www.hse.gov.uk/equipment/info.htm

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1.2 Fire Safety

Minimum Standards Requirement

Local and national laws for fire prevention must be complied with, and evidence of valid local
authority fire certificates in applicable regions must be available
Electrical equipment must be regularly serviced
Combustible materials must be stored safely
There must be adequate and appropriate fire fighting equipment
Fire fighting equipment must be serviced and certificated
Fire fighting equipment must be clearly signed and easily accessible
Fire alarm points must be clearly signed and accessible
Fire exits & escape routes must be clearly signposted, unobstructed and unlocked
There must be a fire assembly point a safe distance from the tannery, with frequent, random fire
drills carried out
Smoking must be banned in working areas of the tannery
A segregated safe smoking area must be provided for workers

When processing textiles and hides the potential for fire is high as most substrates are flammable, many
chemicals are flammable and there are several sources of ignition in factories. Marks & Spencer expects
all of its suppliers to comply with the local and national laws for fire prevention and have valid fire
certificates in those regions where they are issued by the local authorities.

There are three aspects of fire safety for a tannery to consider: Prevention, Fire fighting and Escape.

1.2.1 Prevention
In order for a fire to start the following are required: fuel, oxygen (air) and a source of ignition. Preventing
the risk of fire can be achieved by reducing the likelihood of these three components mixing. Therefore,
factories and mills should be regularly assessed for fire risk to identify sources of ignition and location of
fuels.

For Example:

 keep electrical equipment

clean and serviced to avoid
these becoming the source of
ignition
 Ensure good housekeeping
practices to keep potential
fuels (textiles, chemicals,
papers, etc) stored safely and
away from sources of ignition
 Risk assess all processes that
use a naked flame to ensure
the risk of fire is minimised

The results of a fire in a knitting department

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1.2.2 Fire Fighting

Most fire can be extinguished very quickly if the appropriate equipment and basic training is available. A
fire assessment should be carried out for each area of the tannery to ensure the correct type and amount
of fire fighting equipment is present. For example, hand held extinguishers will not be sufficient for a
cotton store fire. Equally water extinguishers would be inappropriate for electrical fires.

All fire fighting equipment must be well maintained and serviced regularly. All fire fighting equipment must
be clearly signposted and access to it must remain unobstructed at all times. Marking an exclusion zone
around fire fighting equipment is a useful way to ensure access is not blocked.

We encourage the appointment of a dedicated fire officer role within the senior management team to
ensure fire safety is continually assessed, and fire safety should always form part of inter-departmental
audits.

Marks & Spencer require all suppliers to have a total ban on smoking in all working areas of the tannery
with a segregated area for smokers provided away from fire risks.

Information on different extinguisher types is available at:

http://www.fireriskuk.com/fire_extinguishers.htm

1.2.3 Escape
The majority of deaths in factory fires are a result of inadequate, blocked or
locked fire escapes. Management must provide adequate fire escapes for
workers and these must be clearly signposted, with all fire escape doors kept
unlocked at all times.

Marks & Spencer require compliance with these minimum standards at all times.
The possession of a valid fire certificate will not excuse blocked fire exits.

Fire doors with crash bars are recommended, as they are locked from the
outside but can be opened from within to provide security and fire safety.

It is important that a fire assembly point is established which is a safe distance

from the tannery. Frequent, random fire drills (practices of evacuation) must be
Fire exit with
carried out to ensure workers are fully aware of the correct procedures during a
crash bar
fire.

1.3 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Minimum Standards Requirement

Personal protective equipment (PPE) requirements must be signposted throughout the tannery
Appropriate PPE must be provided and worn

Wherever possible, the need for PPE should be removed by automating or using engineered safety
features on machinery (such as interlock switches) to protect the workers. However, where risk still exists,
PPE policies must be created and enforced.

Workers must be provided with personal protective equipment (PPE) for any hazardous or dangerous
operations. Full training and instruction on when and how the PPE should be used must also be provided.
There is often reluctance amongst workers to wear PPE, however, systems and procedures must be in
place to encourage workers to use PPE when and where required. PPE includes, but is not limited to:

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 Boots or closed shoes - must be worn in areas where chemicals are handled
 Gloves and goggles - must be worn when handling chemicals
 Respirators - must be worn if hazardous fumes are present
 Dust masks - must be worn in dusty atmospheres
 Ear protectors - must be worn if workers spend prolonged periods of time in noisy areas

1.4 General Safety

Minimum Standards Requirement

Workers must be provided with changing facilities
Eating and drinking must be prohibited where chemicals are handled
There must be a segregated eating area provided for workers
Housekeeping must be at a level that does not pose a safety risk
Walls, floors and roofs of the building must be safe and in good condition
Drops from upper floors must be protected by barriers

Poor housekeeping leads directly to safety problems, as well as leading to poor quality. There is no cost in
tidying a tannery, but a tidy tannery will result in improvements in safety, quality and efficiency. Providing
workers with a clean, tidy working environment is also a very clear signal that the management care for
and value them.

There is a high risk for chemical ingestion when workers eat and drink in areas of the tannery where
chemicals are handled. Therefore workers must be provided with a segregated eating area, with suitable
hand washing facilities.

Factory with excellent levels of tidiness

Frequent inter-departmental audits are a very good tool for keeping a factory tidy as well as safe. For
example, simply ask a small number of representatives from the production department to assess the
finishing department for housekeeping and safety problems. Extended to the whole tannery this approach
will quickly build a team of safety representatives who are actively improving safety and productivity.

We encourage the appointment of a professionally qualified safety officer who has the authority to stop
any processes or activities that are considered to be unsafe irrespective of the impact this may have on

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productivity. Marks & Spencer recommend the use of independent safety certification as a way to
minimise any potential safety issues.

There are many organisations around the world that provide safety certification and training. One
example is NEBOSH, who have an international diploma:
http://www.nebosh.org.uk/qualifications/diploma/default.asp

Independent certification is also available using standards such as OHSAS 18001:

http://www.ohsas-18001-occupational-health-and-safety.com/

1.5 Engineers and Contractors

Minimum Standards Requirement

External contractors must work to all the existing factory safety standards and requirements
Tools must be used safely by external contractors
Access equipment (e.g. Ladders and scaffolding) must be appropriate and used safely by
external contractors

Marks & Spencer require all safety standards to be applied to everyone on the tannery site, including any
external contractors, engineers and visitors. It is extremely important that any external visitors to the site
are briefed on health & safety, and use tools and equipment safely, and use PPE.

External engineer using dangerously inappropriate

protection equipment

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2. QUALITY SYSTEMS
Minimum Standards Requirement
There must be written Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for all processes
Batch cards must accompany every production batch

Marks & Spencer expects its suppliers to aspire to be world class, and to be world class, effective quality
management systems have to be employed. Quality systems protect the reputation of the tannery, and
they invariably deliver process optimisation that leads directly to improved productivity and cost savings.

Continuous quality improvement is a philosophy that Marks & Spencer expects from its suppliers, as this
defines the culture of an organisation that is constantly trying to improve product quality, consistency and
levels of efficiency. It requires the measurement of tannery performance, costs, and environmental
impacts on a continual basis, exploring how the tannery can be improved.

Marks & Spencer have identified some basic principles that play a major role in ensuring compliance to
standards. To produce products safely and consistently you must have consistent raw materials and
consistent processes. To confirm that processes are done consistently you need quality control systems
and detailed records on each batch of production. This allows areas of good and bad practice to be
identified which can be used for continuous improvement.

2.1 Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs)

Standard Operating Procedures describe how individual processes are carried out and ensure
consistency within the tannery. Consistency of processing is key to delivering quality goods batch after
batch. If correctly implemented, SOPs will improve quality, increase productivity, reduce waste and save
costs. All tannery processes, however simple, should have a written SOP that provides step by step
details of what needs to be done in order to carry out a task such as:
 The equipment used
 Temperature, humidity and lighting requirements
 Timings
 Chemicals used

2.2 Batch Cards

Batch Cards track the flow of goods throughout the entire process from goods inwards to final product
shipment. Good batch cards identify individual process requirements and record the parameters used in
each process and even the operator responsible for carrying out the process. Batch cards reinforce with
the operatives what is expected of them and ensures they carry the process out as consistently as
possible and noting any variations.

The key to a good batch card system is the concept of the internal tannery customer. Batches only pass
to the next stage, or customer, if the batch meets their requirements. If it does not, the batch is not
accepted until the issue is resolved. This creates ownership of quality throughout a process rather than
leaving it to final Quality Control (QC) to make decisions.

Appendix A shows two examples of batch cards; a general material flow card and a jet dyeing card.

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2.3 Work in Progress

Managing the levels of Work in Progress (WIP) is obviously crucial in terms of cash flow and efficiency.
But excessive WIP can lead to quality problems, delivery issues and even health and safety risks. For
example, the storage of excessive WIP may block fire escapes or impair access to fire extinguishers.

A tidy working environment where raw materials are brought in just in time (JIT) for processing, and
finished products are dispatched immediately after processing is more efficient. Excessive stock and WIP
stock ties up cash, so reducing WIP releases cash. A key performance indicator for WIP is how many
days it takes to receive raw material, process into goods, and ship to the customer.

2.4 Chemicals

Minimum Standards Requirement

There must be a copy of the Marks & Spencer ECP standards on-site
There must be a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for all chemicals, filed in the proximity of
the chemical
All stored dyes and chemicals must be labelled
All chemical hazards must be clearly signed (orange labels)
All chemicals must be stored according to MSDS advice
Incompatible chemicals must be stored separately
Bulk quantities of hazardous chemicals must be stored in a manner that avoids the risk of a
spillage
There must be no SVHC's present in any chemicals that are used for M&S production

It is very important that appropriate storage and systems are in place for tannery chemicals, to ensure
both worker safety and product quality.

Unlabelled chemicals pose safety risks, and could lead to a mistake in

production which will compromise the quality of the product. Therefore all
stored chemicals must be labelled with their correct name and any specific
hazards and requirement to wear personal protective equipment clearly
identified. Flammable chemicals (e.g. solvents) must be segregated and
stored separately, preferably in a locked, secure area.

An authentic Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for each chemical must be
available in the local language and kept in close proximity to the chemical for
ease of access.

Bulk quantities of hazardous chemicals must be stored appropriately to avoid

the risk of a spillage. The recommended approach is to enclose containers
with bunds or bund trays that are capable of holding the entire amount of Unlabelled chemical
pose a risk to quality
chemicals in the container. and safety

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All chemicals must be stored to minimise the risk of dangerous

reaction with other chemicals. For example acids and alkalis must
be segregated and oxidising and reducing agents should be
separated. Storage advice on the MSDS must be followed at all
times.

It is also extremely important that there are no Substances of Very

High Concern (SVHCs) present in any of the chemicals used for
Marks & Spencer production. Please see Module 2 - REACH for
more detail on REACH, and to see the list of SVHCs. Bund stands reduce risks that
arise from container leaks

Information on safe chemical storage is available at: http://www.safetystorage.ie/ibcbunds.htm

MSDSs should be consulted for advice on safe storage

2.5 Incoming Water

Unreliable, inconsistent and/or contaminated incoming water will have a major impact on the ability of a
tannery to deliver quality goods on time and in a cost effective way.

Wet processing factories need a consistent supply of soft water or the ability to soften water on-site. Hard
water is a problem because it reduces the solubility of dyes and chemicals and causes precipitation of
solids. Wash off processes are less effective with hard water and can lead to poor wash and rub fastness.

The salts in hard water can also act as a buffer and make it difficult to achieve the extremes of pH
required for several dyeing and finishing processes. For example, achieving the high pH required to fix
reactive dyes or low pH for the full curing of cross linking resins. The latter can lead to formaldehyde
levels above permitted safety levels and hence consumer safety issues.

One of the biggest problems with hard water is its variability which leads to inconsistency in processing.
To ensure production is as consistent as possible, water quality should be monitored on-line and off-line
and records retained as part of quality management systems.

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3. RAW LEATHER & TANNING

Minimum Standards Requirement

only raw hides that are a by-product of the meat industry, are comply with the Marks & Spencer
Animal Welfare Policy and the Leather risk assessment tool can be used for Marks & Spencer
production

3.1 Tanning

3.1.1 Raw Hides

Compliance with the Marks & Spencer Leather Sourcing policy is mandatory and only raw hides that are a
by-product of the meat industry, are comply with the Marks & Spencer Animal Welfare Policy and the
Leather risk assessment tool can be used for Marks & Spencer production.

Salt is used on the hides to avoid attack by micro-organisms and decomposition during storage. It is
recommended that every effort is made to minimise use of salt and discharge of salt to the environment
and there should be no uncontrolled dumping of the salt off site.

A cow hide Liming drum in typical tannery

Best Available Techniques at this stage of the process are:

To process fresh hides as far as they are available and thereby avoid the use of salt
Exceptions:
− When long transport time is necessary (max 8 - 12 hours for fresh, un-chilled
hides; 5 - 8 days if a cooling chain of 2 °C is maintained)
− Sheepskins, calf skins
To use biocides with the lowest environmental and toxicological impact. Reputable suppliers of
biocides often work with processors (often at no charge) to determine the correct type and amount of
biocide to apply.

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3.1.2 Soaking
Hides and skins are soaked in alkaline liquors to re-hydrate
them for processing. Paddles (right) and drums are both
used but the use of paddles is more common for hides and
skins that are very dry or for hides and skins with long hair
or wool. Some tanneries feel the need to use biocides to
prevent decomposition of the hides, but their use must be
minimised. Dip slides (agar coated plates) are cheap and
readily available and can be used to assess bacterial
contamination.

Best Available Techniques at this stage of the process are:

To process fresh hides as far as they are available and thereby avoid the use of salt
To use biocides with the lowest environmental and toxicological impact.

3.1.3 Fleshing
Sending waste material from the fleshing process (residual fat and muscle tissue) to landfill should be a
last resort. Many organisations have been able to find economic outlets for this material, for example, it
could be recycled for use in gelatin production or other low grade food uses where possible. Fats can be
rendered for conversion to tallow or bio-fuel. If disposal is the only option this should be in compliance
with local legislation.

3.1.4 Liming or Hair Removal

The function of liming and unhairing is to remove hair,
interfibrillary components and epidermis and to open up
the fibre structure. Hair removal is performed by chemical
and mechanical means. The keratinous material (hair, hair
roots, epidermis) and fat are eliminated from the pelts
mainly with sulphides (NaHS or Na2S) and lime.
Alternatives to inorganic sulphides include organic
compounds such as mercaptans or sodium thioglycolate in
combination with strong alkali and amino compounds.

Best Available Techniques at this stage of the process are:

To reduce the organic content (BOD & COD), Suspended Solids, Nitrogen and Sulphide in the waste
water by the use of hair-saving techniques
To reduce sulphide consumption by the use of alternatives such as organic sulphur compounds or
enzymes

Hair-save processing has been developed for processing bovine hides. This involves manipulating the
conditions of alkalinity and reducing the agent in such a way that the hair comes out of the follicle without
being pulped and without destroying the hair shaft. A recirculation system with a screen is used to
separate the intact hair. This waste should be used as new raw material elsewhere, rather than being
discharged to the effluent. This brings about a reduction in levels of solids and BOD. Hair causes a very

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high organic load, which results in a high production of sludge. Several commercial hair-save processes
are on the market. Although these processes are not suitable for all types of raw hides and leather
products, high quality leathers are already being produced

Enzymes and amines can be added to facilitate the unhairing and reduce the consumption of sulphides.
Mechanical removal can then be performed easily. Combinations of enzymes with sulphides are used to
make the hair removal more efficient. The hair has to be removed continuously to prevent it from
dissolving in the float.

Sulphides can also be reduced by means of recycling.

Suspended and dissolved solids are a problem for the
recycling of the floats. Large size solids can be filtered out
(hair-save systems, separation of solids > 1mm) by screening,
centrifugation and/or sedimentation. After filtration the
unhairing liquors must be analysed, and their chemical
concentration has to be corrected before re-circulating into the
process. Alkali-stable enzymes can be added at the end of the
unhairing process to clarify the liquors (preventing them from
becoming glutinous, soupy), though care has to be taken that
the enzyme activity is stopped before the liquor is recycled. Liming drum in typical tannery
Recycling requires laboratory analysis and process control.

3.1.5 De-liming
The aim of deliming is to remove residual lime from the pelts and to take the pelts to the optimum
condition for bating. This involves a gradual lowering of the pH (by means of washing and addition of
deliming chemicals), an increase in temperature and the removal of residual chemicals and degraded skin
component. Ammonia free de-liming processes are recommended. In some locations regulations
governing emissions of ammonia to the atmosphere, or levels of ammonia in the workplace, effectively
make ammonia free deliming a necessity.

Best Available Techniques at this stage of the process are:

To reduce the nitrogen content in the waste water by making a complete or partial substitution of
ammonium salts with CO2 and/or weak organic acids.

Carbon dioxide deliming is generally regarded as a practicable, cleaner technology that can considerably
reduce the environmental impact of this operation. A complete substitution of ammonium deliming agents
is possible for bovine hides, but the process can be very slow with thicker hides. If sufficient deliming
cannot be achieved using CO2 alone, auxiliary agents other than ammonium salts, e.g. organic acids, can
be used.
Boric acid, magnesium lactate, organic acids such as lactic acid, formic acid and acetic acids, or esters of
organic acids can be used to substitute ammonium agents. The advantage of substituting ammonium
salts is that ammonia levels in the waste water are reduced. Selection must be made bearing in mind
waste water discharge consent limits, for example, some water authorities restrict the amount of borates
permitted in the effluent, in these locations the use of boric acid would not be permitted.

3.1.6 Bating
Bating is a partial degradation of non-collagenic protein achieved by enzymes to improve grain of hide
and the subsequent run and stretch of leather. In this process the rest of the unwanted hair roots and
scud can be removed. This is an enzymatic process that loosens the skin to make the leather more

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supple. In common with any enzyme process it requires close control of pH and temperature to ensure
consistency of processing.

3.1.7 Tanning

Tanning is a process where collagen in the skin is cross-linked to turn the skin into leather. In the tanning
process the collagen fibre is stabilised by the tanning agents such that the hide is no longer susceptible to
putrefaction or rotting. In this process the collagen fibres are stabilised by the cross-linking action of the
tanning agents. Furthermore their dimension stability, resistance to mechanical action and heat increase.

There are different ways to carry out the tanning process

and the most common is chrome tanning. As effluent
consents for chrome are very tightly controlled it is
recommended that chrome baths are re-used. The chrome
concentration of the tanning bath should be monitored at
the start and finish of the process, and the chrome content
of the tanned leather should also be checked. The
presence of highly toxic Chromium VI salts should be
regularly checked.

Chrome-free tanning is an established technology and should be considered by all tanneries. The most
popular chrome-free process uses aldehydes and produces white tanned leather – called wet white. Much
of the automotive industry has moved to chrome-free tanning so it is already proven in large quantities for
a very demanding end use. Vegetable tanning, using natural plant extracts is also possible.

Best Available Techniques at this stage of the process are:

To reduce the salt concentration by using low volume floats.
To increase the efficiency of the chrome tanning process through careful control of pH, float,
temperature, time and drum speed, all in combination with an appropriate treatment of the discharged
float containing chromium.
To use high exhaustion tanning methods provided the necessary leather qualities can be obtained.
To use chromium recovery through the precipitation of process water containing chromium.
To maximise the exhaustion of vegetable tanning liquor.
Please refer to M&S ECP Module 7 Chromium Vi Management :A Practical Guide
https://supplierexchange.marksandspencer.com

The chrome uptake in the hides depends on many factors. Helpful measures can therefore be taken in
previous process steps. For example, a thorough liming produces more groups where the chrome
complex can be bound. Splitting after liming facilitates chrome penetration and reduces chemical input.
The next step is to ensure high efficiency in the process. The ‘classic’ chrome tanning carried out in long
floats is characterised by poor exhaustion; 30 – 50 % of the chrome applied being lost with the waste
water [tan/tm/17/Frendrup]. BLC reports that an average of 40 % of the chrome input may be discharged.

To improve the exhaustion of conventional tanning systems the following actions are relevant:

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 The chrome input must be optimised during conventional chrome tanning to reduce the
possible waste.
 Processing parameters, e.g. float length, pH and temperature, must be optimised to increase
chrome uptake.
 Short floats reduce the chrome input, combining a low chrome input with a high chrome
concentration.
 Allow enough time for penetration and reaction of the chrome with the substrate.

Without introducing any new chemicals or technologies, tanners can significantly improve the chrome
uptake (compared to about 60 % in normal operation)]:
 80 % chrome uptake can be achieved by altering the physical parameters (temperature rise
from 20 ºC to 50 ºC, pH from 3.5 to 4.5) of the tanning operation.
 up to 90 % chrome uptake by altering both physical and chemical parameters (float levels,
chrome offers).

To improve control of the process parameters, (automatic) process regulation equipment has to be
installed. The obvious advantages are a reduction in the consumption of tanning agents; waste water;
waste treatment and effluents. High-exhaustion chrome tanning recipes exist, often making use of
proprietary products. There are two types of high-exhaustion systems:
 The tanning agents are modified so that a low basicity tanning powder penetrates first into
the cross section. Then a high basicity chrome powder is added and the temperature is
increased.
 There are special chrome agents (aromatic dicarbon acids, e.g. of adipin or phthalic acid,
aldehyde carbon acids, e.g glyoxylic acid), which enhance the number of links available for
the binding of chrome in the collagen structure.

The technique can be applied to both existing and new plants but may require the installation of pH and
temperature control equipment. Furthermore, provisions need to be made to control the increase in
temperature of the bath. Some leather products cannot be made with a high exhaustion process.

The effect of chrome recycling on chrome discharges depends on the efficiency of the existing tanning
processes, but on average 50 % of the exhausted tanning float can be recycled. There are two options for
the recycling of exhausted tanning liquors:
 Recycle the tanning liquors to pickle process
 Recycle the tanning liquors to tanning process (and the pickle liquors to the pickling).
For both options a holding tank and a screening of the solutions are required.

Process control and monitoring are necessary for calculating and adjusting bath strength (salt content,
pH, etc.) and for checking impurities. Some changes to the tanning process might be necessary, such as
reducing the amount of masking agents and salts added.

3.1.8 Recycle the tanning liquors to pickle

If tanning is executed in the pickle float, the exhausted tanning bath can only partly be recycled into the
next batch of pickle liquor. For recycling into the pickling float the liquor is passed through a nylon screen
and, after 24 hours, passed to a tank where it is mixed with the pickle acid. The hides are drummed in
brine solution, then the pickle/chrome liquor is added. After the standard pickling time, the fresh chrome
input is added.

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3.1.9 Recycle the tanning liquors to tanning process

If the liquors are recycled to tannage, hides are taken out of the drums at the end of the process, allowing
about 60 % of the float to be recovered. In the tanning operation, fresh chrome powder is added to the
drained pickled pelts (which carry about 20 % residual float) and then the recycled liquor is added.
Chrome can be recovered from the exhaust liquors (tanning liquors, samming water) from the
conventional chrome tanning process; chromium from high-exhausting chromium salts is not recycled due
to the low concentration. The chromium-containing liquors are collected in a collection tank, after which
the chromium is precipitated by addition of an alkali. The precipitated chromium is separated from the
supernatant, after which the chromium sludge is dissolved in concentrated sulphuric acid (for 1kg of Cr2O3
as precipitate about 1.9 kg H2SO4 is required). The supernatant is generally discharged to the effluent.

The precipitate should be re-dissolved as soon as possible, as it gets less soluble with time. Any alkali
will precipitate chrome, but the stronger the alkali, the faster the rate of coagulation. Therefore, the
following precipitation options can be selected:
 Sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate (as strong alkali) will lead to a fast precipitation and
voluminous sludge.
 Fast precipitation with additional agents like polyelectrolytes to facilitate coagulation has the
advantage that only simple de-watering is necessary.
 Slow precipitation, e.g. magnesium oxide (as a powder, pH 8), gives a denser sludge, which
allows for decanting. For 1.0 kg Cr2O3 in the spent liquors, 0.25 – 0.4 kg MgO, is needed
depending on the basicity and masking. Another advantage of the use of MgO is that any
excess addition will not cause pH to rise beyond 10, so that any sludge redissolving at higher
pH levels is avoided.

Impurities and process chemicals may build up and therefore an increased level of process control is
needed, and impurities may need to be destroyed after dissolving the chromium sludge. Chromium
recovered in this way resembles the quality of fresh chromium, and therefore this system of chromium
precipitation tends to be favoured over direct chromium recycling.

3.1.10 De-watering
After tanning, the leathers are drained, rinsed and either horsed up to age, or unloaded in boxes and
subsequently sammed to reduce the moisture content prior to further mechanical action, such as splitting
and shaving. The setting out operation can be carried out to stretch out the leather. Machines are
available which combine the samming and setting action. After samming and setting, hides and skins can
be sorted into different grades after which they are processed further or sold on the market. Water
removed from chrome tanned leather will contain chrome and this must be collected, re-used or disposed
of carefully.

3.2 POST TANNING & DYEING

3.2.1 Post-tanning
The post tanning operations modify tanned hides by treating them with a potentially wide range of
chemicals that modify the leather in terms of feel, colour, softness etc in preparation for a surface coating.
There are several stages which follow one after another without the need for the leather to be removed
from the process vessel. The normal sequence of operations is: neutralisation, retanning, dyeing,
fatliquoring.

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Neutralisation is the process by which the tanned hides are brought to a pH suitable for the process of
retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring.
The retanning process can be carried out with the following objectives:
 to improve the feel and handle of the leathers
 to fill the looser and softer parts of the leather in order to produce leathers of more uniform
physical properties and with more economical cutting value to the customer
 to assist in the production of corrected grain leathers
 to improve the resistance to alkali and perspiration
 to improve the wetting back property of the hides which will help the dyeing process.

A wide variety of chemicals can be used for the retannage of leather. They can generally be divided into
the following categories: vegetable tanning extracts, syntans, aldehydes, mineral tanning agents and
resins.
The dyeing process is carried out to produce level colours over the whole surface of each hide and skin
and exact matching between hides in a commercial pack. Leather is usually dyed with acid dyes (Basic
and reactive dyes are less commonly used) using a drum dyeing machines and the same controls that are
used in the exhaust dyeing of textiles (section Error! Reference source not found.) should be put in
lace to maintain quality, reduce the environmental impact of the process and improve productivity.

Leathers must be lubricated to achieve product-specific

characteristics and to re-establish the fat content lost in
the previous procedures. The oils used may be of animal
or vegetable origin, or might be synthetics based on
mineral oils. Stuffing is an old technique used mainly for
heavier vegetable-tanned leather. The sammed leather
is treated in a drum with a mixture of molten fat.

The retanned, dyed, and fatliquored leather is usually

washed before being piled on a 'horse' to age (let the fat
migrate from the surface to the inside of the pelt).

Best Available Techniques at this stage of the process are:

To reduce COD by optimising the process in terms of float length, temperature (use of high
temperature), duration and quantities of retanning agents, fatliquors and auxilliaries applied.

3.2.2 Drying
The objective of drying is to dry the leather whilst optimising the
quality and area yield. There is a wide range of drying
techniques and some may be used in combination. Each
technique has a specific influence on the characteristics of the
leather. Drying techniques include samming, setting,
centrifuging, hang drying, vacuum drying, toggle drying and
paste drying. Generally samming and setting are used to reduce
the moisture content mechanically before another drying
technique is used to dry the leather further.

Over-drying must be avoided as this can make the leather harsh as well as wasting energy. After drying,
the leather may be referred to as crust. Crust is a tradable intermediate produc

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3.3 Recipe Prediction & Formulation

Minimum Standards Requirement

Instrumental colour measurement and intelligent computerised systems must be used for recipe
prediction and formulation

Marks & Spencer were one of the pioneers of instrumental colour measurement and spectral data
standards. We expect all our suppliers to be using instrumental colour measurement and intelligent
computerised recipe prediction systems. Once a recipe has been developed it is recommended that
automated dispensing equipment is used to prepare the laboratory recipes to ensure accurately weighed
dyestuffs are used for the lab dyes. See section 5.7 for more information on weighing dyes and
chemicals. More details on colour measurement can be found in the Marks & Spencer C41 document.

Stock solutions for the dispenser should be made at least every day. Some dyers even make fresh
solutions every 12 hours to reduce the chance of dye hydrolysis or settling/aggregation. Dispensers work
on a g/l basis and it is important to remember that liquid dyes should be made up to the final volume and
not added to the final volume, otherwise small but significant errors can occur. For example, to make a
1g/litre stock solution, 1g of liquid dye should be added to 999 ml of water and not to 1 litre.

There are many colour management system choices including Smartmatch by Datacolor
http://www.datacolor.com and Robolab from Intertrad http://www.intertradgroup.com/

3.4 Weighing Dyes and Chemicals

Minimum Standards Requirement

Dye stores must be clean, dry and tidy
All dyes & chemicals must be labelled
Scales and balances must be clean, dry, serviced and calibrated
All chemicals must be accurately weighed or measured by volume (not estimated)

Marks & Spencer require as a minimum that dye and chemical stores are clean, dry and tidy and that
workers are provided with appropriate PPE.
Each dyestuff should be stored in a clearly labelled closed container, and an individual scoop or spoon for
each dyestuff must be used to minimise the risk of cross-contamination. It is best practice to transport
these containers to the balance before the dye is removed, as carrying small quantities of dye over large
distances results in inaccuracy.
Marks & Spencer also recommend the use of trained, dedicated staff to carry out weighing of all dyes and
chemicals. It has been proven that accuracy is greater for workers whose sole responsibility is to weigh
and dispense dyes compared to machine operatives weighing their own dyes and chemicals.

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Marks & Spencer recommend that manual or check-weighing is carried out in

a down-draught booth for the safety of workers. These are simple booths
where an extraction unit draws air to the floor pulling potentially irritating dust
away from the operative. Down draft booths are not a substitute for PPE but
they do reduce the risk of exposure to dust.
The image opposite shows a downdraft booth schematic - note the extraction
unit at the bottom of the booth. It is important to switch the extraction fan on
before the scales are tared (or zeroed) to ensure accurate and consistent
weighing.
Schematic diagram
Up-draft booths are not recommended as these tend to pull dust past the of a downdraft booth
operatives’ faces and make the process more hazardous. www.downdraft.com/index.htm

The importance of accurate weighing of dyes and chemicals cannot be over emphasised. The
fundamental purpose of a tannery is to produce consistent products and this can only be achieved by
consistently applying accurately measured amounts of colour to an accurately weighed substrate. Lack of
attention to weighing of chemicals, and dyes in particular, will result in inconsistent colour continuity, high
cost of rejection and unnecessary environmental impacts.

There are three basic options for weighing dyes and chemicals: Manual, Check-weigh and Automatic.
Whichever option is used, the scales must be professionally calibrated and certified regularly.

Manual weighing can achieve good results if carefully done,

however, Marks & Spencer recommend a check weigh system
as a minimum requirement to deliver consistent weighing of
dyes. Workers in manual dye and chemical stores should sign
their name against each item that they weigh or dispense to
confirm they have:

 Selected the correct dye or chemical

 Weighed/measured the correct amount
Checkweigh with bar-code reader

Check-weigh systems are better than manual systems as the system automatically confirms the correct
weight of dye or chemical to the operative. With basic check-weigh systems there is still a chance that the
wrong dye or chemical can be selected so it is recommended that a check-weigh system with a bar code
reader is used as this confirms the correct chemical is always weighed.

Check-weigh systems cost in the order of £10 -15,000. Fully automated dye dispensers can cost over
£500,000 but they are the ultimate in accuracy and convenience. Automatic dispensers can be linked so
dyes are dissolved automatically and transferred to dyeing vessels without intervention by an operative.

Lawer fully automated dispensing system

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Although the weighing of chemicals is slightly less critical than the weighing of dyes care should still be
taken. Common problems include:

 Mistakes regarding the specific gravity of the liquids.

The common assumption that 1 litre weighs 1kg is not
always the case.
 Viscous liquids are often weighed accurately but
transferring the liquid to the machine leads to
inaccuracies as pouring is difficult.
 The majority of basic chemicals are clear liquids or white
powders, and therefore if labelling in the chemical stores
is poor the selection of the wrong product can occur.
Adequate chemical storage & labelling

Mettler are one of the leaders in industrial weighing:

http://uk.mt.com/gb/en/home/products/Industrial_Weighing_Solutions.html

4. DYEING
The subject of dyeing is huge and we do not intend to cover every aspect of dyeing in this document.
However, the aim of this module is to provide best practice information to improve quality and consistency
and to increase the levels of right first time (RFT). Marks & Spencer recommend the following key
principles:
 Use the best quality dyestuffs
 Use the best quality chemicals
 Weigh and measure all dyes and chemicals accurately
 Aim for consistent batch to batch weights when loading machines
 Aim for consistent liquor ratios from batch to batch
 Set and record key process data on batch cards and recipe sheets
 Analyse process performance to improve quality and reduce unnecessary steps and excessive
chemical use
 Regularly seek advice and demand process reviews from your dye and chemical suppliers

4.1 Dye Selection

Minimum Standards Requirement

The strength of incoming dyestuff deliveries should be regularly checked
Health and safety data for all dyes and chemicals must be assessed

Low quality dyes produce low quality results. To meet the Marks & Spencer performance standards high
performance dyestuffs are recommended. It is important that technical data for dyestuffs are fully
assessed to ensure they will meet the required standards.

The consistency of dyes is also important to ensure consistent quality performance. The major
international dye suppliers have tighter strength tolerances (+/- 2%) than many of the smaller suppliers
who can only manage +/-5%. Irrespective of the dyestuff supplier the strength of incoming deliveries of
dyes should be regularly checked.

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Health & safety data for all dyes must be assessed to ensure they are compliant with the Marks &
Spencer RSL and REACH requirements. See Module 1 – Restricted Substance List, and Module 2 –
REACH for further details.

4.2 Chemical Selection

Cheap chemicals are often very inconsistent, resulting in inconsistent dyeing. The cost of processing
chemicals as a percentage of finished product costs is tiny and it is a false economy to save small
amounts of money on chemical purchases that can then lead to huge costs of reprocessing.

Health and safety data for all chemicals must be assessed to ensure they are compliant with the Marks &
Spencer RSL and REACH requirements. See Module 1 – Restricted Substance List, and Module 2 –
REACH for further details.

5. QUALITY CONTROL

5.1 Colour continuity

Minimum Standards Requirement
Colour continuities must be retained

Colour continuity is a system used to manage shade consistency of bulk batches relative to the approved
standard. Good colour continuity is based on the use of continuity cards which help ensure ‘drift’ from the
original standards does not occur for repeat batches. Continuity cards must always have the approved
customer colour attached.

To ensure consistency of colour assessment, pre-finished and fully finished samples of bulk production
must be mounted in the same direction as the standard and other batches with the face being visible.
Assessment of colour continuity is then made with reference to the master standard and along with the
previous batches. Details on Marks & Spencer method for colour assessment can be found with the C41
documentation. An example of a Colour Continuity Card can be found in Appendix B, please note the
batch number on the continuity card linking it to the process history data.

5.2 Quarantine

Minimum Standards Requirement

There must be a quarantine area for non-conforming products

Quarantine areas are where non-conforming products are separated from conforming products. These
areas should be clearly marked, and even segregated from the rest of the tannery to ensure poor quality,
non-conforming products are not shipped to the customer. A system of positive release from the
quarantine should be established to ensure products are not moved from the area unless there are
specific instructions to do so. Quarantine areas should also be established at key points throughout the
process with particular importance at the final inspection stage.

APPENDIX A: BATCH CARDS

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General material flow card

Batch Card

Batch Number:
Quality:
Colour:
Customer:

Process
Received in
Date completed
Process Route good condition Comments
Completed satisfactorily
(signed)
(signed)

Sew
Bleach
Dye
Hydro
Relax Dry
Pad Soften Dry
Compact
Test
Exam

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Jet dyeing card

Batch Card

Batch Number:

Quality:

Colour:

Customer:

Process:
Machine Number:

Batch size:

Liquor Ratio:

Programme:

Rope length:

Cycle time:

Preparation Recipe

Chem 1 x g/l

Chem 2 x g/l

Dye Recipe

Dye 1 y%

Dye 2 z%

Chem 4 x g/l

Chem 5 x g/l
Process
Standard Measured
Process Route Comments completed Time
Value Value
(signed)

Fill
Load
Add prep chems
Add salt

Check specific gravity

Add dyes

Add alkali

pH check
Take sample
Unload

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APPENDIX B: COLOUR CONTINUITY CARD

Quality Colour

Pre-Finish Fully Finished

Date

Batch Number

DE (to master Always mount fabric the same way Always mount fabric the same way
standard)
Pass/Fail

Approved (sign)

Date

Batch Number

DE (to master Always mount fabric the same way Always mount fabric the same way
standard)
Pass/Fail

Approved (sign)

Date

Batch Number

DE (to master Always mount fabric the same way Always mount fabric the same way
standard)
Pass/Fail

Approved (sign)

Date

Batch Number

DE (to master Always mount fabric the same way Always mount fabric the same way
standard)
Pass/Fail

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