Singer 700 Series Tension Repair Guide
Singer 700 Series Tension Repair Guide
Singer 700 Series Tension Repair Guide
1
Basic Tension Parts:
Shown to the right, fig 1, is the basic T&S top tension unit
Lets break it down and become familiar with the parts, fig 2
1. 63 – tension cap / regulator nut
2. 64 – tension cap – plastic
3. 65 – tension cap friction washer
4. 66 – check spring
5. 67 – tension releasing pin
6. 57 – tension stud unit
7. 58 – tension discs (3 total)
8. 59 – tension releasing pin washer Fig 1
9. 60 – pre-tension spring
10. 61 – pre-tension adjusting nut Fig 2
Panel Removal:
1. Open the side cover (face plate), fig 3, arrow
2. Depending on model, removing the arm top cover differs. Fig 3 depicts a machine with a solid arm top cover, while fig 4
depicts a machine with an arm top cover that may be opened to insert additional patterns. Depending on your model type,
remove the arm top cover screw, shown in fig 3 & 4 bottom pictures, circled area
3. With the side cover open, lift the top from the right side, and slide off to the left. The arm top cover is spring loaded, so give
it a little assistance in sliding off
Fig 3
Fig 4
2
Tension Disassembly:
1. Using the rounded end needle noise pliers, or other tool available, remove the tension cap
regulator nut. Turn counter clockwise, fig 1 Fig 1
2. Remove the plastic tension cap, and inspect for any damage. This part should be free of
nicks, or other areas that could snag the thread during sewing. If it is damaged in anyway,
replace, or repair so it is smooth on all back side surfaces, fig 1 arrowed
3. Remove the tension cap friction washer, shown on previous page, item 65 in the parts
section
4. Remove the tension releasing pin’s holding clip, fig 2 circled, pull straight up on it
5. Using the 5/64th Allen wrench, loosen the setscrew, fig 2 top arrow
6. Remove the top tension unit from the arm top cover. Note: pay attention to the releasing pin,
as it fits into a little cupped area in the tension adjusting arm, fig 2 bottom arrow
In figure 3 we have the unit laid out in the order of disassembly: left to right
Tension cap regulator nut – plastic cap – friction washer – tension unit
Fig 2
7. With the tension unit in hand, carefully remove the backside of the
check spring off the stud unit
8. Then remove the front of the check spring off the pre-pressure adjusting
nut, at the same time being careful not to bend the check spring itself
9. Before removing the pre-pressure spring adjusting nut, observe its
position on the tension stud. It is important that we place this unit back
on in the same location when putting the unit back together
Fig 4
3
Tension Reassembly:
Before putting the unit back together, lets inspect some of the parts, and ensure they are in good working order. Any broken or
damaged part will need to be replaced, or repaired as best possible until you can obtain a replacement part
1. Figure 1 shows us the tension stud disassembled. Normally this unit does not come apart as such. However in our case the
plastic part (circled in fig 1) that holds pressure for the check spring is cracked and will require repairing. We may simply
glue this part to the metal stud for the time being
2. Once repaired, reassemble the tension stud. Observe that the middle part in fig1 fits onto the stud snuggly, and actually rides
on a little ringed area of the stud – shown in fig 1 by the arrow
Fig 1
Fig 2
3. Clean the tension discs of any rusting, or other debris. If necessary, using very fine sandpaper, smooth the discs. They must
be very clean, and free of any thing that may hinder the thread flow between them. They should be very smooth
4. Reassemble the tension unit as follows
a. Place the 3 discs back on the stud unit
b. Insert the releasing pin through the middle of the stud, along with the washer
c. Place the pre-pressure spring on
d. Install the pre-pressure spring adjusting nut, placing it back where you observed it in step 9 on the previous page
e. Carefully work the check spring back onto the front & back side of the tension unit
5. Place the tension unit back in the arm top cover, with the check spring facing down, fig 3, and ensure you have the thread
guide position properly as well. One of the thread guide tangs fits into the arm top cover, fig 3 arrow
6. Turn the tension stud clockwise so the check spring just touches the machine casting, fig 4
7. Using a small tension screwdriver, or other tool, turn the tension stud an additional ¼ turn clockwise, hold in place and
tighten the unit with the 5/64 Allen setscrew, fig 4 & 5
8. Work the tension releasing pin back into the cupped area, and install the releasing pin clip, fig 5
4
Adjusting The Tension:
If the tension was properly working at one time or another before having to repair it, it’s a pretty safe bet that adjusting will not be
necessary. These come preset from the factory, and should not require adjusting.
Fig 1
Common problems are the plastic part on the tension stud breaking, allowing the check
spring to loose proper return pressure, the discs are full of crude, or rusted up, and finally the
check spring itself was damaged. These items have been corrected with the above
procedures, so actually the machine should be ready for use again. However, should you
need to adjust the tension, Fig 1 arrow shows the adjusting screw. With the arm top cover
off the machine, turn the tension dial to zero (0).
1. Thread the machine to the discs, ensure you don’t hold the arm top cover as to
activate the releasing mechanism, Fig 1 circled
2. Gently pull on the thread at the zero setting, and start turning the dial to 5. You
should feel a gradual increase in resistance as you pull the thread
If I recall, we use to tie the presser foot to the thread, and at 0, the presser foot would slowly, with a little resistance, drop towards the
floor. At a setting of 1 on the dial, the foot would stop.
Again, do not adjust until you have actually tired the machine for proper stitching. It is very possible there are other things wrong
with the machine that is affecting stitch quality. Needle to hook timing could be incorrect, feed timing could be incorrect, or the hook
or needle plate are damaged from needle nicks. If you ever broke a needle while sewing, there is a chance it burred the hook point.
These items are covered my other repair guides, as well as the factory manual. If you need to get deeper into the machine, I strongly
suggest looking at the timing guide first, then followed by the full service manuals available. The factory guide has a good section on
the theory of how the tension works as well.
TIP
Before assembling the arm top cover and putting the machine back together, I have one other tip for you, sort of a bonus if you will.
Another problem area I’ve found is the lower thread guide. Over a period of time, it gets full of all sorts of gunk, and checking it out
is well worth the time spent doing so. Just a word of caution, these units are easily broken, so do take care while working with it.
Fig 3 Fig 4
5
Reassemble Covers – Threading:
Install the side cover and arm top cover, thread the machine up and see how you’ve done
Tips on threading:
1. Turn the tension dial to 5, ensure the presser foot is up
2. Thread the machine as far as the take-up lever and stop
3. Pull on the thread some, and then set the presser foot down, continuing to pull on the
thread. If you feel a significant increase in tension, the machine should be ready to go
4. If not, double check threading procedure, the T&S is an easy machine to thread
incorrectly. Most common is missing the tension discs, or not getting the thread all the
way between the discs. Tip: once you have looped the thread over, under and around
the tension unit, make a X at the bottom of the tension unit with the thread. This usually ensures that both the thread guide
paths are engaged on the tension unit. At the take up lever, hold the spool by hand, and pull the thread a little to ensure the
thread does engage the tension discs.