Ch1 - Engine DA
Ch1 - Engine DA
Ch1 - Engine DA
Chapter 1
Engine
Stamped number on
DC13 77A
6690537 top of the block
The engine designation indicates, in the form of a code, the type 368 2100
DC 13 368kW 083 A 00
Type
DC Supercharged diesel engine with air-cooled charge air cooler.
Displacement in whole dm 3
Application
A For general industrial use
Variant 00 -99
NOTE!
Place the dump truck on level ground and apply parking brake
Take away the cab bolt, left and right hand side.
Nv 46 mm
Left side:
1
Disassemble the cab pump unit from the air filter stand.
2
Remove the water hose from the pipe socket. 1
3
Remove the fuel hoses (3 pcs) and
4 2
Disassemble screws from filter stand bracket
4
3
3
Right side:
1 1
Unscrew the hose clamps and remove the pipe bend,
filter - turbo
2 2
Disconnect the oil hose from engine brake cylinder and bracket
disassemble the other end at left side on the magnetic valve
3 4 1
Hook up the filter stand in lifting device.
4
Screw off the fastening bolt for filter stand,
left and right hand side
Detach the Air Cond. compressor with the hoses on, from the
engine. Check that all of the clamps are undone.
Place the Air condition compressor on the left side while the en-
gine are dismounted
Disconnect bracket for the air pipe and bracket between engine
and fan bracket
Disconnect the outlet pipe bend from turbo, and the inlet water
hose from the transmission cooler.
Remove the cover and disconnect the electrical contact from the
engine ECU -S6 control unit
Drive shaft
Remove safety archer.
Remove driveshaft between transmission and engine coupling, 2
1 Assembly torque: 114 Nm
1
2
2 Assembly torque: 141 Nm
1
Disassemble screw for the ground cable (on starter motor)
Assembly torque: 47 Nm
2
Left and right hand side, disassemble screw on the engine
mounting bracket. 1
Assembly torque: 560 Nm (M20 10.9)
2 1
1
Disassemble the hose clamp bracket.
1
2
Unscrew the engine bracket bolt left and right hand side. 2 2
Assembly torque: 560 Nm (M20 10.9)
MT41 / DA40
Disassemble front brake oil cooler hose from
the brake cooler circulate pump.
Note:
The engine lifting eyes are designed
for lifting the engine only, not the
engine together with its ancillary
equipment (alternator, gearbox etc.)
or fram
8394 8373
Lever block Lifting chain
Note:
The lifting eyes are sized to cope
with a maximum angle of 30°.
Bleed
Hand Pump
Inlet Metering Valve
Fuel Manifold Fuel Heater
350W 5-24 deg
Fuel Filter 1
10 microns
Fuel Filter 2
3 microns
The feed pump draws fuel from the fuel tank. The fuel is taken into connection 1 and drawn through the suction
filter. From the suction filter the fuel is drawn into the control unit cooler via the fuel hose 2 and then from the
control unit cooler to the feed pump via the fuel hose 3.
The feed pump builds up the fuel pressure to between 9 and 12 bar and forces the fuel through the pressure
filter via the fuel pipe 4. The fuel flows from the pressure filter via the fuel pipe 5 on to the fuel inlet metering
valve fitted on the high pressure pump.
The fuel inlet metering valve controls how much fuel should be led into the high pressure pump when
requested to do so by the engine control unit.
The high pressure pump builds up the fuel pressure to a maximum of 3,000 bar. The fuel is taken on to the
accumulator via high pressure pipe 7.
A high pressure pipe 8 runs from the accumulator to each connection bringing fuel to the injectors. When the
solenoid valve in the injector is supplied with voltage, the injector opens and fuel is injected into the cylinder.
The fuel system works under high fuel pressure and it is therefore important that there is no water in the fuel.
Water causes corrosion of the fuel system components and the components will be damaged due to the sys-
tem’s tight tolerances. To prevent water from being present in the fuel, water is separated from the fuel at the
suction filter and taken back to the fuel tank via the pipe 6.
There is a safety valve 9 on the accumulator that opens if there is a fault in the fuel system, which results in the
fuel pressure becoming too high. The safety valve opens at a pressure of 3,000 bar and reduces the fuel
pressure to 1,000 bar and then regulates the fuel pressure so that it remains at 1,000 ± 300 bar. When the
safety valve opens, the fuel is returned via the pipe 10. Fuel which is taken out via the safety valve will heat up
the pipe downstream of the safety valve.
Excess fuel from the injectors flows from the fuel manifold back to the fuel tank via the pipe 11.
A:High pressure
B:Low pressure
C:Return.
Pressure filter
The pressure filter is located downstream of
the feed pump and performs a finer filtration
than the suction filter.
Water separation
Overflow valve
The overflow valve controls the pressure downstream of the injector in the fuel system.
The overflow valve uses a duct in the fuel manifold to recirculate return fuel to the fuel filter, which
returns the fuel to the fuel tank via a duct.
1 Connection
2 Injectors
3 Accumulator
4 Fuel pressure sensor
5 Safety valve
6 Bleed nipple
7 High pressure pump
8 Fuel inlet metering valve
9 Feed pump
10 Hand pump
11 Fuel filter, 2 off
12 Fuel manifold for return fuel
13 Engine control unit with control
unit cooler
14 Overflow valve
Fuel initially contains a reduced quantity of water rom the manufacturing process. The water content may in-
crease, e.g. as a result of condensation, during prolonged and unsuitable storage.
Small quantities of water in the fuel do not affect the engine operation. However, micro-organisms grow in the
water. The microbes obtain nourishment from the oil and their growth is therefore greatest in the
boundary layer between the water and oil. In an emulsion the boundary layer is very large and emulsification
therefore encourages growth.
De-contamination
Tanks:
- Clean large supply tanks carefully inside and dry them before filling them with new fuel.
- Drain the water a few days after filling and at regular intervals from then on in accordance with the oil
supplier’s instructions.
The winter fuel has a lower density and lower viscosity. This results in a reduction in engine output.
Environmental fuel
Environmental fuel with markedly reduced sulphur contents and therefore emissions is available on various
markets. Normally the density and viscosity is also lower for these fuels.
By using output correction curves (formulae), the outputs can be corrected for the effect of density and viscosity.
See the table on page 7 for the specification of diesel fuel complying with Swedish environmental classification.
New, more stringent requirements for exhaust emissions will come into force as of 2011. To meet these new
requirements for exhaust emissions, a technology will be used which is known as SCR, Selective Catalytic
Reduction. This technology involves aftertreatment of the exhaust gases using reductant and catalytic convert-
ers in order to reduce the amount of nitrogen oxide in the exhaust gases.
Selective catalytic reduction and controlled fuel injection with an XPI fuel injection system are used to effec-
tively clean the exhaust gases and remove harmful substances in them.
1 Reductant tank
3 Coolant valve
5 Coolant hose
7 NOx sensor
9 Temperature sensor
10 Coolant hose
11 Reductant pump
12 Reductant doser
Exhaust gas aftertreatment is made up of the electronic control system for exhaust gas aftertreatment, EEC
(Exhaust Emission Control system), with sensors and electrical components such as the reductant pump
and reductant doser. Together with components such as catalytic converters, reductant tank and electrically
heated reductant hoses, the exhaust gases are cleaned to remove harmful substances.
The control system consists of a control unit (EEC3), NOx sensor, temperature sensor for exhaust gases,
level and temperature sensor in the reductant tank, reductant pump, reductant doser, coolant valve and elec-
trically heated reductant hoses.
2 Coolant valve
3 Temperature sensor
6 Reductant pump
7 Reductant doser
8 NOx sensor
The EEC3 control unit retrieves data from the system’s sensors and components. EEC3 communicates with the
engine control unit EMS. EMS decides on what measures are to be executed, e.g. what quantity of reductant is
to be metered to the exhaust gases, and notifies EEC3. The EEC3 control unit is independently responsible for
the functions which supply reductant to the exhaust gases.
The EEC3 control unit is located on the reductant tank bracket underneath the reductant tank.
The EEC3 control unit retrieves data from the system’s sensors and components. EEC3 communicates with the
engine control unit EMS. EMS decides on what measures are to be executed, e.g. what quantity of reductant is
to be metered to the exhaust gases, and notifies EEC3. The EEC3 control unit is independently responsible for
the functions which supply reductant to the exhaust gases.
The EEC3 control unit is located on the reductant tank bracket underneath the reductant tank.
3 Level sensor
4 Temperature sensor
Explanation
In order to reduce the concentrations of nitrogen oxide compounds (NOx) in the exhaust gases, catalytic con-
verters are used and reductant (32.5% urea and the rest water) is delivered into the exhaust gases in the hydro-
lysis catalytic converter. When the exhaust gases have been treated in the SCR catalytic converter water (H2O),
carbon dioxide (CO2) and nitrogen (N2) come out of the exhaust pipe.
The illustration is a principle drawing of the components carrying out exhaust gas aftertreatment.
1 Hydrolysis catalytic converter with reductant doser. Reductant is added, evaporated and mixed with the
exhaust gases.
2 Reductant tank and reductant pump to deliver reductant to the reductant doser.
3 SCR catalytic converter that converts nitrogen oxide compounds into nitrogen and water.
The exhaust gas aftertreatment processes are monitored and activated by the exhaust gas aftertreatment con-
trol unit EEC3 which is controlled by the engine control unit EMS.
Working principle
The working principle for exhaust gas aftertreatment is divided into three different operations:
Starting
Operation and reductant metering
Shutdown
Starting
The reductant pump starts when the following has taken place: The engine has started, the EEC3 control unit
has carried out a system check, the catalytic converters have started to heat up and have reached the correct
operating temperature (200–250°C) and any heating of the reductant is finished. The reductant pressure is built
up to 9–10 bar to then be injected into the hydrolysis catalytic converter by the reductant doser.
The EEC3 control unit monitors the values and functions of all sensors
The reductant pump (11) starts and builds up the reductant pressure to 9–10 bar.
When the temperature sensor (9) indicates that the temperature of the exhaust gases has reached 200–250°C,
the EEC3 control unit activates the reductant doser (12), which starts injecting reductant to the hydrolysis
catalytic converter (6). The dose is determined by the engine control unit EMS on the basis of the combustion
control in the engine which is currently being operated by the engine control unit.
The EEC3 control unit monitors the values and functions of all sensors
The EEC3 control unit opens the coolant valve (3) so that the coolant can heat the reductant tank (1) and re-
ductant pump (11). The EEC3 control unit also activates electrical heating of the reductant hoses (2 and 4) and
the electric heating in the reductant doser (12).
The EEC3 control unit registers, via the temperature sensor in the reductant tank (1) and the reductant doser
(12), when the reductant is at a temperature above -11°C, at which the reductant pump (11) starts.
When the temperature sensor (9) indicates that the temperature of the exhaust gases has reached 200–250°C,
the EEC3 control unit activates the reductant doser (12), which starts injecting reductant to the hydrolysis cata-
lytic converter (6). The dose is determined by the engine control unit on the basis of the combustion control in
the engine which is currently being operated by the engine control unit.
The exhaust gases are treated in a number of steps before being released via the tailpipe. These steps are
based on the combustion control mode of the engine control unit. First, the exhaust gases are mixed with reduc-
tant when they pass the hydrolysis catalytic converter (6). The process of hydrocarbon reduction begins in the
hydrolysis catalytic converter (6) and ends in the SCR catalytic converter (8).
Once the exhaust gases have passed the hydrolysis catalytic converter (6), the exhaust gas temperature is
measured using the temperature sensor (9). The value is read off by the EEC3 control unit and transmitted to
the engine control unit. The values from the temperature sensor (9) are used by the engine control unit to con-
trol the exhaust gas temperature, which should be between 200 and 250°C. This can be done with the exhaust
brake, if fitted, the injection system XPI or a combination of the two.
The exhaust gases then pass through the SCR catalytic converter (8) where most reduction of hydrocarbons
takes place by means of reductant injected in previously. NOx is converted into water, carbon dioxide and am-
monia.
The volume of reductant mixed with the exhaust gases in the hydrolysis catalytic converter (6) is determined by
the engine control unit, activated by the EEC3 control unit and carried out by the reductant doser (12). The dose
is determined by the engine control unit on the basis of the values from the NOx sensor (7), temperature sensor
(9) and the combustion control mode of the engine control unit.
The EEC3 control unit activates injection of reductant to the hydrolysis catalytic converter (6) from the reductant
tank (1) by means of the reductant pump (11) and the reductant doser (12).
Shutdown
When the engine is switched off the reductant pump (11) continues for a set period to deliver reductant to the
reductant doser (12). However, reductant is not injected into the hydrolysis catalytic converter (6) but is returned
to the reductant tank (1) and has the purpose of cooling the reductant doser. Otherwise it may be damaged by
the heat from the hydrolysis catalytic converter.
2 NOx sensor
3 Temperature sensor
5 Reductant pump
6 Reductant doser
7 Coolant valve
1 Reductant tank
Electrically
heated hoses Right
for reductant mudguard
Reductant
Doser
Hydrolysis catalyst
Transmission
2 NOx sensor
3 Temperature sensor
5 Reductant pump
6 Reductant doser
7 Coolant valve
1 Reductant tank
3 Reductant pump
5. Renew the filter element and check the O-ring and insulation
316 16 3
6. Wipe clean with lukewarm water before you refit the filter
cover to remove any crystals.
316 164
316 164
Reductant doser
The reductant doser meters out the quantity of reductant, which the engine control unit indicates, to the
evaporator in the silencer. On industrial and marine engines the reductant is metered out to the hydrolysis
catalytic converter
The reductant doser is electrically heated to prevent the reductant from freezing when the outdoor tempera-
tures are low. The reductant doser is also equipped with a reductant temperature and pressure sensor and the
measurements are transmitted to the exhaust gas aftertreatment system.
1 Restriction valve
2 Prefilter
3 Pressure and temperature sensor
4 Nozzle
5 Solenoid valve
6 Heater element
The reductant flows from the inlet at a pressure of about 9–10 bar and first passes the prefilter (2), fills the ducts
after which the sensor (3) reads the pressure and temperature.
The dosage quantity is determined by the opening time of the solenoid valve (5). It opens once per second
and the amount of time that the solenoid valve is open during that second determines the dosage quantity. The
opening time can vary from 5–95% of 1 second. The reductant is metered to the exhaust gases via the nozzle
(4).
After the engine has been switched off, the reductant pump continues to pump reductant to the reductant doser
to cool it, otherwise the reductant doser can be damaged by the heat in the silencer. No metering takes place
but the reductant flows out to the reductant tank via the restriction valve (1) and the outlet. Cooling stops when
the temperature is not critical in the reductant doser.
The reductant pump sucks reductant from the reductant tank, filters and builds up pressure for the reductant
which is then fed to the reductant doser.
The reductant pump is an electrically driven diaphragm pump with a filter for cleaning the reductant. The reduc-
tant pump is heated using the engine’s coolant at low outdoor temperatures in order to thaw frozen reductant or
prevent it freezing.
1 Pump unit
2 Valve block
3 Reductant filter
4 Cover
5 Connections for coolant
6 Ventilation
7 Internal hexagon bolt
8 Connection for electrical connector
9 Connections for reductant
10 Electric motor for diaphragm pump
The illustration below shows a section through the valve block viewed from below.
Reductant is sucked through the intake (1) and reductant filter in the valve block (3) and then through a port
(6) to the pump chamber, where reductant pressure is built up. If the reductant pressure exceeds 13 bar in
the pump, the overflow valve (5) and check valve (7) open, reducing the reductant pressure in the pump. The
amount of reductant pumped to the reductant doser can be varied by regulating the speed of the electric motor
between 800 and 3500 revolutions per minute.
1 Intake, reductant
2 Outlet, reductant
3 Reductant filter
4 Damping element
5 Overflow valve
6 Port to pump chamber
7 Check valve
The illustration below shows a section through the valve block viewed from the side.
Reductant is sucked in through the intake port (1) and via an intake valve (2) to the pump chamber, where
reductant pressure is built up by means of the pump diaphragm (3). Pressurised reductant passes through the
outlet valve (4) and via the port (5) to the reductant filter, which is located under the valve block. If the pressure
exceeds 13 bar, the overflow valve opens via the port (6). Once the reductant has passed the reductant filter, it
is pumped out via the port (7) and outlet (8). The reductant pressure has been reduced and is approx. 10 bar.
The reductant filter (1), which is located under the valve block, must be renewed in accordance with the speci-
fied inspection interval. If the reductant freezes in the reductant pump at low outdoor temperatures when it is
non-operational, which takes place at approx. -11°C, there is a damping element (3) in the filter retainer that is
compressed when the reductant expands during freezing. A sealing bladder (2) protects the damping element
from coming into contact with the reductant. The damping element and the area around it are ventilated via a
diaphragm valve (4).
1 Reductant filter 2
2 Sealing bladder
3 Damping element
4 Diaphragm valve
3
1 Feed pump
2 Hand pump
3 EMS control unit
4 Fuel filter
5 Cylinders
6 Fuel tank
7 Return line for excess fuel
A Check valve
B Gear pump (feed pump)
C Safety valve
D Pressure relief valve
E Drain nipple
Overflow valve
6
1 Fuel rail
2 Pressure relief valv
3 Fuel filter
8 4
4 Feed pump / hand pump
5 Shut-off cock 7
6 Oil hose water filter - feedpump
7 Water separating prefilter 5 9 Supply from tank
8 Retur line
9 Drain valve Retur to tank
General
FUEL
Property Requirement
Viscosity at 40°C 2.0 - 4.5 mm2/s (cSt)
Flashpoint 56°C
There are three classes of so called environmentally favourable fuels (SS15 54 35).
Class 1 is sulphur-free and class 2 is low in sulphur. Compared with class 3 (normal fuel), these fuels are less
dense and this reduces engine power output.
Fuel filter
Design
Fuel filter are of single-mounted type. The filter screw on to a
retainer which is bolted to the engine.
The fuel filter has no bleed screw and is bled by undoing plug 4
in the free inlet passage.
Function
Fuel is pumped into the inlet by the fuel pump. It then continues
through passages in the filter retainer to the upper part of the fil-
ter, down through the filter or filters and on to the outlet passage.
From there, the fuel is piped to the injection pump.
1. Filter retainer
2. Filter
3. Gasket
4. Plug
Fuel filter, constituent parts
Note:
Close the shut-off cock when renewing
the filter.
1 2 3
1 Shut-off cock
2 Drain valve
312 509
2
Unscrew the bolts and remove the
feed pump.
3
Place a new O-ring onto the feed
pump and ubricate with O-ring
grease.
4
Fit the feed pump.
5
Connect the suction and pressure
pipes.
6
Bleed the fuel system; refer to Bleed-
ing the fuel system.
7
Start the engine and check for leaks.
SHOP MANUAL DA30-DA40 - 02.2012
Ch 1 page 40 Engine
Feed pump
The feed pump 1 draws fuel from the fuel tank and forces it through the fuel filter 11 and into the fuel rail 4.
The fuel rail distributes the fuel to the unit injectors in each cylinder head.
The ECU control unit determines when the unit injectors must inject fuel into the cylinders.
1 Connection
2 Injectors
3 Accumulator
4 Fuel pressure sensor
5 Safety valve
6 Bleed nipple
7 High pressure pump
8 Fuel inlet metering valve
9 Feed pump
10 Hand pump
11 Fuel filter, 2 off
12 Fuel manifold for return fuel
13 Engine control unit with control
unit cooler
14 Overflow valve
Feed pump
EMS-
S8/S6
LCD TCU
USB
D2
Can2 Can1
Can ZFD
D1 Diagnostic
C U
1
connection
V
Can3 LUB
WB2T
top Twin
Lap
4 1
3
VCI
Tightening torques
Work description
IMPORTANT!
The control unit may suffer damage if it is powered
when you unplug it.
Before removing the control unit you must switch
off the power with the starter key and wait for the
EMS warning lamp to go out.
1
Remove the covers over the connectors on the control unit and
then unplug the connectors.
2
Remove the control unit fixing screws and lift off the control unit.
3
Fit the new control unit and tighten the screws to 22 Nm.
4
Plug in the connectors on the control unit.
5
Do the necessary programming with ECOM. Start the engine.
Check the fault codes and then delete them in accordance
with the routine in troubleshooting booklet or with the PC-tool
ECOM if it is available.
Drain the coolant from the engine as described in the work de-
scriptions for the cooling system.
2
Wash clean the rocker covers and the area
around them.
3
Remove the inlet pipe between the turbocharger and the air
cleaner.
4
Remove the air line to the compressor. The air line is located on
the left-hand cable duct.
5
Unplug the connectors from the control unit.
6
Remove the rocker covers.
On the 12-litre engine the crankcase ventilation must be removed
before the rocker cover on cylinder 1 can be removed.
7
Disconnect the cables from the unit injectors.
The screws cannot be removed, but they should be unscrewed
as far as possible.
8
Mark the cables with the respective cylinder numbers.
9
Remove the cable duct to which the cables are attached.
The unscrew the cable bushings in the lower rocker covers
and remove the cables.
10
Remove the charge air sensor and its clamps.
11
On engines fitted with an electricallycontrolled fan, separate
the connector on the fan ring, which is connected to the solenoid
valve. Remove the cable clamps as well.
12
Remove the oil pressure sensor and its clamps.
13
Remove the coolant temperature air sensor and its clamps.
Note:
Handle the engine speed sensors with
care. They are magnetic and are sensitive to
impacts.
14
Remove engine speed sensor 1 and its
clamps.
15
Remove engine speed sensor 2 and its
clamps.
SHOP MANUAL DA30-DA40 - 02.2012
Engine Ch 1 page 45
Tightening torques:
IMPORTANT!
If the screws are tightened too tight, there is a risk
that they may break. If this happens, the entire unit
injector must be replaced.
118 482
Work description:
1
Make sure that the inlet pipe between the
turbocharger and the air cleaner has been
removed.
2
Fit the cable ducts. Schematic illustrations
of the location of the cable ducts and their
components are shown below
1 Cylinder 1–6
4
Press the cables into the groove in the lower
rocker cover.
See the illustration about Fitting the wiring.
Note:
Take care when tightening the cable connection screws on
the unit injector. If a screw breaks, the unit injector must be
replaced.
5
Secure the cables to the unit injectors by
tightening the screws. Use torque
screwdriver 512562 and tighten the screws
to 2.0 +/- 0.2 Nm.
10
Fit the coolant temperature sensor and its
clamps.
11
Fit the charge air sensor and its clamps.
Note: Handle the engine speed sensors with
care. They are magnetic and are sensitive to
impacts.
12
Fit the auxiliary engine speed sensor and
its clamps.
13
Fit the main engine speed sensor and its
clamps.
14
Connect ECOM to the engine and check the
unit injectors by activating them. Check also
that the values from the sensors are correct.
15
Plug the connectors into the control unit.
16
Fit the upper rocker covers and tighten the
screws to 18 ± 3 Nm.
17
Fit the inlet pipe between the turbocharger
and the air cleaner.
18
Top up with coolant in accordance with the
work descriptions for the cooling system.
Special tools
8049 8029
512256 Slide hammer
8049 Impact drift
512256 8019
8029 Extractor for injectors
8019 Compression tester
512260 Drift
512261 Handle
512257 Drift 512260
512266 512258
512266 Pilot tap 512261 512257
512259 Drift 512259
512258 Drift
512262 Guide
512265 Valve seat cutter
512263 Setting tool 512262 512265 512263 512264
512264 Setting tool
Valve mechanism
The pushrods have one end in the tappets and the other
end, via the rocker arms, transfers the movement from the
camshaft cam to the valves.
The valves seal against valve seat rings which are pressed
into the cylinder head to make a tight fit.
The valve seat rings are made of extremely durable material
to give them a long service life.
Should it be necessary, they are replaceable.
With four valves per cylinder, the total valve area becomes
greater, making it easier to fill the cylinder with air. At the
same time, less energy is consumed in forcing out the ex-
haust fumes.
The effort required for gas flow is reduced and engine ef-
ficiency is improved. This in turn leads to a reduction in fuel
consumption.
The injector can be located centrally, which improves com-
bustion and results in reduced emissions and lower fuel
consumption.
1.
Open the bleeder nipple and drain the fuel
system by undoing the banjo screw on the
back of the fuel manifold.
! WARNING!
2.
Clean the rocker cover and the surrounding
area.
3.
Remove the top part of the rocker cover.
4.
Relieve the pressure on the valves by
undoing the bolts on the rocker arm shaft
alternately.
! WARNING!
Note:
5.
Remove the rocker arm shaft.
6.
Remove the bearing bracket.
7.
Remove the pushrods.
Note: The pushrod for the unit injector is
secured with a retaining ring. Jiggle
and pull carefully on the pushrod to
loosen it.
8.
Remove the valve bridges.
9.
Remove the lower rocker cover.
10.
Remove the fork clamp bolt holding the unit
injector in place.
1. Fork clamp
2. Fork clamp bolt
3. Unit injector
11.
Detach the cables on the unit injector. The
screws cannot be removed but undo them as
far as possible.
Note:
Do not lift the unit injector by the spring.
The spring can come loose.
12.
Turn the unit injector anti-clockwise until it
stops. Place the slide hammer 87 596
between the solenoid valve and the edge of
the lower rocker cover as illustrated.
Note:
If the slide hammer is placed
directly under the solenoid valve,
there is a risk of breaking the
solenoid valve.
13.
It is easier to position the slide hammer if one
of the lower rocker cover bolts is removed.
14.
Withdraw the unit injector. If the unit injector
is stuck, tap carefully with a rubber mallet on
the solenoid valve housing.
Important!
The unit injector is not to be dismantled.
512256
15.
Remove the sealing washer from the bottom
of the injector seat, (if it was left behind
when the unit injector was removed).
16.
Detach the intake manifold, fuel manifold,
ventilation pipe for the cooling system and
the exhaust manifold.
17.
Remove the cylinder head. Mark the cylinder
heads if more than one is being removed at
the same time.
Dismantling
1.
Remove collets, valve spring collars, springs and valves.
Press the spring down using tool 8406 in a press so that the 8406
collets can be removed.
2.
Mark and place the valves in a rack so that they can be
refitted in the same position in the cylinder head.
3.
Mark the cylinder heads if more than one is removed at the
same time.
1.
Remove the valve.
2.
Remove the valve stem seal with a pair of pliers.
8407
3.
Fit the valve.
1.
Remove the valve seat inserts. Use a discarded valve that has
been ground so that the diameter of the disc is slightly smaller
than the inside diameter of the seat.
2.
Fit the valve and weld around it with an electric welder.
Cool with water. Turn over the cylinder head and knock the
valve stem so that the valve and seat insert fall out.
! WARNING!
3.
Press in new valve seat inserts. Use drift
512260 and handle 512261.
Cool the drift and valve seat to approximately 80°C in
dry ice or using liquid air.
Pressing must be carried out rapidly.
! WARNING! 512261
512260
Machining values
Work description
1.
Check that the contact surface and the
magnetic base are smooth and clean. Clean
the valve bushings.
2.
Select the largest spindle which slides
easily into the valve guide.Insert the guide
spindle and turn the feed screw to its
uppermost position.
3.
Select and fit the cutter.
4.
Release the quick-action lock and move the
pivot plate to the upper position with the
adjusting screw.
5.
Set up the dial on the cutter adjuster using a
valve.
6.
Adjust the cutter. Diameter 37.9 mm or
39.8 mm, see Machining values.
7.
Disconnect the magnetic base (position 2).
Insert the guide spindle into the valve
bushing. Adjust the pivot plate so that the
distance between the cutter and the valve seat
is approximately 1 mm.
Centre the tool precisely.
8.
Connect the magnetic base (position 1).
9.
Apply the quick-action lock. Make sure the
crank can be turned easily. If not, redo the
centering.
10.
Machine the valve seat by cranking clockwise while turning
the feed screw.
Never crank counterclockwise, as this could damage the
cutter.
Lubricate with cutting oil during the procedure.
11.
When the machining of the valve seat is
completed, reduce the cutting pressure by
turning the crank 23
turns without feeding.
Then continue to turn the crank while turning
the feed screw anti-clockwise. The valve seat
cutter is now ready for the next valve seat.
1.
Press out the valve guides using drift 512259. 512259
2.
Press in the new valve guides using drift 512258
Press the guide down as far as the
drift allows, i.e. until it makes contact with
the spring seat in the cylinder head. 512258
2.
Knock out the pilot tap and sleeve from
underneath. Use a 100 mm metal rod with a
9 mm diameter.
3.
Degrease and check the contact surfaces of
the sleeve and cylinder head. Smooth off any
burrs and irregularities that may score the
sleeve.
4.
Degrease the new injector sleeve and apply a
thin film of sealing agent 351161-- on the
sleeve and cylinder head contact surfaces.
5. 512561
Press in the sleeve with drift 512561 and
guide 512262 512262
Assembly
1.
Lubricate all parts well with engine oil
before assembly.
8406
2.
Fit the valves in the their guides and
position the cylinder head in a press.
3.
Fit the valve springs and the valve spring
collars.
4.
Compress the springs using tool 8406 and
fit the collets, making sure that they go into
their correct positions.
Fitting
1.
Check liner height, refer to Measuring the
cylinder liner height.
2.
Fit a new cylinder head gasket.
3.
Fit the cylinder head and ensure that the
guide pins fit into the holes.
4.
The cylinder head bolts can be reused up to 3 times.
Therefore, make sure the bolts
have no more than 2 punch marks on top of
the bolt head. If any of the bolts has 3
marks, it must be replaced with a new one.
5.
Lubricate the threads on the cylinder head
bolts and the surface under the head.
6.
Tighten the bolts in the order given in the figure and in three
stages + 90° as follows:
7.
Fit the lower part of the rocker cover and
tighten the bolts to 26 Nm.
1. Low-pressure pump
5. Rail (accumulator)
8. Return rail
1. Cylinder head
2. Sleeve
3. Core plug
4. Rivet
5. Valve guide
6. Valve seat insert
7. Valve seat insert
8. Pin
9. Pin
10. Cylinder head gasket
11. Seal
12. Intake valve
The fuel enters the injector via the connection. The injector is
continuously pressurised to a maximum of 2400 bar. When the
solenoid valve is supplied with power and opens, fuel is injected
into the cylinder.
Phase 1,
no power to the solenoid valve in
the injector
NOTE !
There is a fuel pressure of between 350 and a
maximum of 2400 bar in the injector.
Phase 2,
power to the solenoid valve in the
injector
Engines equipped with flywheel with marking TDC Up: Fit turning
tool 531447 in the holes of the upper window. Press the pinion into
the external ring gear and turn the flywheel with a ratchet handle
and a 14 mm socket. Read the mark on the flywheel in the upper
window of the flywheel housing.
Note!
Valve transition occurs when the cylinder
switches from exhaust stroke to intake stroke.
The exhaust valve is closing while the intake
valve is opening.
It is not possible to read the flywheel position on the lower part of the flywheel housing. To read, use the TDC
top inspection hole, the cab must be tilted up.
Note !
Use the cab support when reading of
marks on the flywheel
Intake valve
Exhaust valve
Intake valve
Exhaust valve
Check and adjust the valve play with the engine cold. Play for the
intake valves should be 0.45 mm and
for the exhaust valves 0.70 mm.
Engines equipped with flywheel with marking TDC Up: Fit turn-
ing tool MX no. 8405 in the holes of the upper hatch. Press in the
gear in the external ring gear and turn the flywheel with the ratchet
handle and a 14 mm socket. Read the mark on the flywheel in the
upper window of the flywheel housing.
Note!
Valve change occurs when the cylinder
goes from the outlet stroke to the inlet
stroke. The exhaust valve is about to
close at the same time that the intake
valve is opening
It is a good idea to mark the rocker arm with a pen after adjustment to keep
track of what has already been adjusted.
The flywheel also has markings at 240°/600° and 120°/480°, these mark-
ings apply to 6 cylinder engines.
IMPORTANT!
512263
Use torque screwdriver 512562 to avoid the
risk of shearing off the screws.
9
Refit the upper rocker cover and torque
tighten the bolts to 18 Nm.
10
Close the bleed nipple and tighten the banjo
screw.
11
Fill and bleed the fuel system. Refer to
Bleeding the fuel system.
NOTE !
Tightening torques
Lock nut on rocker arm: 39 Nm
! WARNING!
PDE32 512264
See note previous side.
1.
Position setting tool 512263 or 512264 with the metal
plate around the injector spring.
2.
Finely adjust dimension A by simultaneously using a finger to
sense that the small piston 2 is level with the flat upper surface of
the tool. 512263
It is possible to sense differences of less than a tenth of a
millimetre.
3.
If tool 512263 (or 512264 (Tier3) is not available:
Measure the distance between plane a and the top of the valve
spring collar using a digital sliding caliper. Adjust the rocker posi-
tion by means of the adjusting screw until the dimension is 66.9
+/- 0.1 mm.
4.
Tighten the lock nut to 39 Nm.
5.
See on the section Testing & Adjusting:
1.
Fit the unit injector according to the section
Fitting the PDE injector, steps 1-11.
2.
Fit the pushrods.
3.
Fit the bearing bracket and torque tighten the
bolts to 115 Nm.
4.
Fit the valve bridges.
Important!
Lubricate the valve bridges with engine oil.
5.
Continue according to the section:
Fitting the PDE unit injector steps 6 - 11
Note:
Check and adjust the valve clearance and unit
injectors at the same time and with the engine cold.
1.
Turn the flywheel with tool 8405 so that the piston in cylinder
No. 1 is at TDC after compression.
2.
Check the valve clearance using a feeler gauge and, if necessary,
use the adjusting screw on the rocker arm to set the correct
clearance.
The intake valves are actuated by the short rocker arms and the
exhaust valves by the long rocker arms. Make sure the valve
bridge is resting correctly against the valves.
NOTE !
The adjstable value for the injectors are aprox 0,2 mm. If the
values is over 0,2 mm, e.g. 0,8-1,0 mm, then something is
wrong.
Start the adjusting prosedure again and follow the table be-
low.
TDC Up 0° 1 2 6
5 4 2
3 1 4
TDC Up 0° 6 5 1
2 3 5
4 6 3
Rotate the flywheel using tool 8405 so that the mark on the
flywheel UP TDC is visible in the upper window according to the
table below.
Order of adjustment for valve clearance and PDE unit injectors: UP TDC
See table below.
TDC Up
(0°) 1 5 5
2 3 3
4 1 1
5 2 2
3 4 4
Turbocharger
127 579
compresses the engine’s intake air.
49
1017
The turbocharger wheel rotates extremely
fast. At full power, speed is about 100,000
rpm. At the same time, the temperature
on the exhaust side of the turbine wheel is
above 600°C.
General
Foreign bodies
Note! Foreign bodies, such as grains of sand or metal fil-
Whenever working on the turbocharger, observe ings, in the turbine or compressor will damage their
utmost cleanliness. The oil intake and outlet con- blades.
nections must never be left open. A foreign body
in the bearing housing can quickly cause total This leads to imbalance and bearing wear. Engine out-
breakdown. put falls off and continued operation could give rise to
overheating damage on account of a decrease in the
Oil leakage supply of air.
With a clogged air cleaner, the vacuum in the intake
pipe will be excessive. There is then a risk that oil mist This type of overheating cannot be observed on the
will be sucked out of the turbocharger’s bearing hous- coolant temperature gauge.
ing.
Note!
If the seal on the turbine side is worn, exhaust gas is Never attempt to straighten a damaged impeller. It
blue when idling. will usually break in operation causing the turbo-
charger to break down and may also cause
If the oil outlet pipe from the turbocharger is damaged, enginedamage.
there is a risk of oil leaking out through the seals due Change the entire turbocharger.
to lubrication oil pressure.
Air and exhaust leakage
Oil filter Even small leaks in the line between the air cleaner
The turbocharger rotates at high speed, sometimes and turbocharger cause dirt deposits on the compres-
above 100.000 rpm. sor wheel.
The oil lubricates and cools the turbocharger. Efficient Charge pressure decreases with increased exhaust
lubrication is extremely important. There is no separate temperature, causing smoke. In addition, the engine
turbo filter and the oil passes through the engine oil is worn unnecessarily.
filter. For this reason, change the oil filter and clean
the oil filter assembly in accordance with our instruc- Exhaust leakage between cylinder head and turbo
tions. charger also results in lower charge pressure.
Use filter wrench 8388 when removing the oil filter. Cleaning the compressor wheel
Low charge pressure can be caused by a dirty com-
If the oil filter assembly is not cleaned, the oil filter will pressor wheel, for example.
soon become clogged and its resistance to the flow
of oil will increase. - Remove the compressor housing.
A valve in the filter holder then opens and allows the - Wash the compressor wheel using white spirit
oil to pass through the filter without being cleaned (fil- and a brush.
tered). Unfiltered oil is consequently supplied to the
turbocharger with heavy bearing wear as a result. - Fit the compressor housing and measure charge
pressure again.
The valve is designed for genuine Moxy filters and only
these should be used. Note!
The compressor wheel must not be removed from
the shaft. Imbalance may occur when it is refit-
ted.
Special tools
Radial clearance
Take readings on both turbine wheel and compressor wheel.
1.
Place the tip of the deflektion gauge against the turbine
wheel and compressor wheel.
2.
Pull both ends of the shaft up. Take a reading.
3.
Press both ends of the shaft down. Take a reading. The
difference between readings is radial clearance.
Axial clearance
1.
Place the tip of the dial gauge 8014 against the end of the shaft.
2.
Press the shaft forwards and backwards and read the dial at
the end positions. The difference between readings is axial
clearance.
3.
Repeat measurements three times.
Axial clearance
(after running in) 0.025-0.106 mm Measuring axial clearance
with dial gauge 8014 and
measuring stand 8391
2.
Check that there are no loose particles in the exhaust manifold
or intake manifold.
3.
Check that all valves are intact.
4.
Check the lubrication oil return pipe from the turbocharger for
blockage or deformation.
5.
Check the oil delivery pipe to the turbocharger for any blockage,
deformation and leakage under pressure.
6.
Check the condition and part number of the oil filter.
7.
Check that the air filter is not blocked and that there are no other
reasons for the abnormal increase of vacuum in the intake
system.
8.
Check that engine output is correct. Excessively high output
reduces the life of the turbo.
Note:
When renewing the turbocharger, all gaskets and the
oil filter must be changed and the centrifugal cleaner
must be cleaned.
Removal
1.
Detach the delivery and return oil lines from
the turbocharger.
2.
Detach the exhaust pipe, induction pipe and
charge air cooler pipe from the turbocharger.
3.
Undo the bolts in the turbocharger base and
remove the turbocharger.
Fitting
1.
Check the connecting flange on the exhaust
manifold to ensure that there are no remnants
of the old gasket.
2.
Fit a new gasket and bolt on a new
turbocharger. Lubricate the exhaust manifold
bolts with high-temperature resistant
lubricant, part No. 561 205.
Tighten the turbocharger to 50 Nm and the
exhaust manifold to 59 Nm.
3.
Connect the oil supply and return lines.
4.
Connect the charge air pipe, induction pipe
and exhaust pipe.
5.
Disconnect the fuel valve’s power supply
(fuel shut-off) and turn the engine over with
the starter motor for at least 30 seconds so
that the lubricating oil will reach the
turbocharger.
6.
Start the engine and check that there is no
leakage.
1. O-ring
5. O-ring
6. Compression ring
7. Compression ring
9. Circlip
13. Circlip
16. Crankshaft
Special tools
8005 Drift
Connecting rods
The connecting rod and big-end cap are split obliquely, partly so
that the con rod bolts will not be subjected to excessive loads and
partly to enable the piston and con rod to be withdrawn through
the cylinder.
The upper part of the connecting rod is wedge shaped. This al-
lows a larger journal surface on the underside of the gudgeon pin
where load is greatest during combustion.
1.
Remove the cylinder head and oil sump.
2.
Remove the piston cooling nozzle in the cylinder block.
Note:
The piston cooling nozzle must not be damaged. The oil jet
must hit the piston precisely. If it does not, the piston will
become too warm resulting in engine breakdown.
Damaged nozzles must not be straightened.
They must be renewed
3.
Remove the bearing cap and bearing shells.
Protect the oil way in the crankcase using, e.g. adhesive tape, ap-
plied with the sticky side out.
4.
Mark the piston and connecting rod before removing them. They
must be refitted in the same place and in the same way.
5.
Lift out the piston and connecting rod.
8005
6.
Place the connecting rod in a vice with soft jaws. Remove the
retaining rings for the gudgeon pin.
7.
Push out the gudgeon pin using drift 8005.
8.
Remove the piston rings using tool 8395, taking care to avoid
scratching the surface of the piston skirt with the piston rings.
8395
9.
When cleaning graphited pistons in a machine, the graphiting may
disappear.
This does not matter after they have been in use for a while.
However, new pistons should be washed carefully using white
spirit or the like.
Note:
Always inspect the connecting rod
in cylinders which have seized,
been filled with water or where the
valve has broken. Bent connecting
rods must not be straightened.
1.
When the gudgeon pin bushing has been
checked, insert the bearing cap as marked
and tighten the bolts to full torque.
2.
Mount the connecting rod in the tool using
the expander and place the gudgeon pin in its
bushing. Then place indicator studs on the
gudgeon pin.
Important!
The difference must not exceed 0.6 mm.
Important!
Before carrying out this
procedure, the connecting rod should be
checked for straightness in accordance
with Checking connecting rods
Work description
1.
Fit the correct support on the pressplate and
place the connecting rod so that the wide
end of the connecting rod is resting against
the support. Turn the press drift with the
smaller diameter against the bearing
bushing and press it out.
2.
Turn over the press drift and mount a new
bearing bushing onto it. Press in the bearing
bushing.
3.
After pressing in a new bearing bushing, it
must be finish-turned. This requires special
equipment.
Pistons
The pistons which are used in Moxy MT41 engine is of type; articulated pistons.
Articulated pistons are split and have an aluminium skirt and a steel crown.
(For the aluminium piston to resist the high pressure and high temperature prevailing in the com-
bustion chamber, the material is thicker at the piston crown and piston ring grooves than in the
remainder of the piston.)
One of the advantages of articulated pistons is that they can tolerate higher loads than conventional
pistons completely made of aluminium.
As the piston crown is made of steel it can withstand higher temperatures and pressure in the com-
bustion chamber.
This enables more power to be extracted from engines with articulated pistons.
Piston rings
For the piston to travel freely, a gap is required between the
piston and cylinder liner.
The piston therefore has two compression rings which seal this
gap and conduct the heat from the piston.
The bottom piston ring, the oil scraper ring, prevents oil from
the crankcase from finding its way up to the combustion cham-
ber.
The design and quality of the pistons and piston rings are ex-
tremely important for the reliability and lubrication of the engine
as well as oil and fuel consumption.
1.
Clean the piston and its rings thoroughly
without scratching the sides of the ring
grooves. The oil holes in the piston should be
cleaned using a suitable drill.
2.
Make sure the piston ring gaps do not exceed
the permitted limit.
Place the piston rings in the cylinder liner
and measure the gap using a feeler gauge.
For permitted gap, see section entitled
Specifications, piston rings.
3.
Fit the piston rings using tool 8395. The
oil scraper ring has an expander. Pistons
rings marked with TOP must be turned with
TOP face up.
4.
Oil all the bushings, the gudgeon pin hole
and the gudgeon pin before assembling.
5.
Place one of the retaining rings in the piston.
6.
Turn the piston and connecting rod as
illustrated. The arrow mark should point
forward on the engine.
7.
Insert the gudgeon pin using tool 8005 and
fit the second retaining ring for the gudgeon
pin.
8005
Cylinder liner
The cylinder liners are of the “wet” type, i.e. they are
surrounded by coolant.
The inside of the cylinder liner is machined by what is known as plateau honing. This type of machining leaves a
fine pattern of grooves which ensures that the oil needed for lubrication between piston rings and liner remains
on the wall of the liner.
The design of the pattern is of major importance for ensuring low oil consumption in the engine.
Two sealing rings, one in the block and one in the liner, seal off the coolant jacket. The surface of the liner in
contact with the liner shelf seals off the lubricating oil.
In the space between liner shelf and sealing ring in the block is an overflow hole which discharges in the side of
the cylinder block under the side covers.
Leakage at any of the sealing surfaces will result in oil or coolant coming out of the overflow hole.
1.
Mark the liners with the numbers 1-6. The
mark is necessary so that the liners can be
refitted in the same place and position as
previously.
Note:
The mark must be made only on the
surface indicated in the illustration.
Other surfaces are for sealing.
2.
Withdraw the cylinder liner using puller
8036
99 066 and hydraulic cylinder 8036. Fit
spacers under the support lugs to avoid
damaging the surface of the block.
3.
Remove the sealing ring in the cylinder
block.
8215
1.
Thoroughly clean the cylinder block liner
shelf, the face around the cylinder, the
cylinder liner shelf and the upper face of
the cylinder liner.
2.
Fit the cylinder liner without O-rings and
twist down by hand into position.
3.
Lift out the liner and wipe the liner shelf in
the cylinder block and the cylinder liner
shelf.
4.
Insert the cylinder liner without O-rings
and twist it down into position again by
hand.
6.
Measure each liner at two diametrically
opposite points transversely across the
engine.
1.
Check cylinder liner height as described in
the section entitled Measuring the cylinder
liner height.
2.
Make sure the interior of the cylinder block
is clean. Clean the O-ring surfaces.
3.
Check that the holes for coolant going to the
cylinder head and cylinder liner are not
clogged.
4.
Carefully check the cylinder liners, both new
and old, for cracks which might have arisen
during transport or careless handling.
5.
Tap the liner carefully with a metal object. It
should give a clear metallic ring if it is intact.
If it sounds cracked, renew it.
6.
Lubricate the sealing ring to be fitted in the
cylinder block with engine oil and fit it in
place.
7.
Lubricate the sealing ring to be fitted in the
cylinder liner with engine oil and fit it in
place.
8.
Turn the liner with the stamped cylinder
number facing forward and carefully tap it
down with a rubber mallet.
9.
Fit the scraper ring in place after the piston
has been fitted.
1.
Lubricate the piston, piston rings, cylinder
liner and piston ring compressor with engine
oil.
3.
Turn the piston rings so that the ring gaps are
evenly distributed round the piston.
4.
Fit the upper connecting rod bearing shell to
the connecting rod and lubricate the bearing
surface.
5.
For engines with a scraper ring in the liner:
Fit assembly tool 8409 instead of the
scraper ring in the liner.
6.
Carefully insert the connecting rod and piston
so that the arrow mark on the piston points
forward.
7.
Clamp piston ring compressor 8224 round 8224
the piston and push the piston down into the
cylinder past the assembly tool.
8.
Remove the assembly tool and press in the
scraper ring. Be careful to press it in straight
so that it does not tilt.
9.
For engines without a scraper ring in the 8409
liner: Insert the connecting rod and piston.
On aluminium pistons the arrow mark on the
piston should point forward.
10.
Clamp piston ring compressor 98 212 round
the piston and push the piston down into the
cylinder.
11.
Fit the lower connecting rod bearing shell
into the cap and lubricate the bearing surface.
Fit the cap. Check that the connecting rod
and cap have the same marking and that they
are opposite each other.
12.
Lubricate the bolts, fit them and tighten to
20 Nm + 90°. Check that the pistons nozzles
are in perfect condition and fully open. If
necessary, blow clean with compressed air.
13.
Fit the piston cooling nozzle and tighten the
banjo bolts to 23 Nm.
Note:
The piston cooling nozzle must not
be damaged. The oil jet must hit the
piston precisely. If it does not, the
piston will become too warm
resulting in engine breakdown.
Damaged nozzles must not be
re-aligned, renew them instead.
14.
Fit the oil sump and tighten the bolts to
30 Nm.
15.
Fit the cylinder head. Tighten the cylinder
head bolts as described in the section
Cylinder head.
NOTE:
23.
Timing gear plate,
engines with PDE
unit injectors
Special tools
8432
8006
1.
Remove the engine speed sensor(s) in the
flywheel housing.
2.
Remove the bolts for the flywheel.
14” flywheel: Also remove the washer.
3.
Pull off the flywheel from the crankshaft
using puller bolts 8006
1.
Remove the retaining rings on both sides of
the support bearing.
8410
2.
Knock out the support bearing from the
flywheel using drift 8410.
3.
Fit the inner retaining ring and fit the new
support bearing with drift 8410.
4.
Fit the outer retaining ring.
1.
Grind a groove as deep as possible in the ring
gear and crack it open with a chisel. Remove
the ring gear from the flywheel.
! WARNING!
2.
Clean the contact surfaces on the flywheel
with a wire brush.
3.
Heat the new ring gear evenly around its
circumference to 100 -150°C.
4.
Place the heated ring gear on the flywheel so
that the marking with the part number is
facing the engine when fitting the flywheel.
Make sure the ring gear is securely against
the flywheel. If necessary, knock down the
ring gear with a plastic hammer.
5.
The ring gear must not be cooled rapidly but
be left to cool in the open air.
1.
Remove the crankshaft seal using a
screwdriver. Take care not to scratch the
sealing surfaces on the crankshaft and the
flywheel housing.
Note:
The crankshaft seal must be fitted
dry and must not be lubricated. The
sleeve in the seal should be left in
place until the seal is fitted.
The crankshaft should be
degreased before the new seal is fitted.
2.
Fit the new crankshaft seal using tool 512555.
Place the crankshaft seal on the tool and
fasten the tool with the bolts.
3.
Turn the tool clockwise until is stops in order
to attain the correct crankshaft seal position.
3.
Remove flywheel housing.
1.
Remove all old sealing compound on the sealing surfaces of the
timing gear casing and timing gear plate.
Clean off any oil and grease using an alcohol based cleaning
agent.
Note:
The sealing surfaces must be absolutely clean and free from
grease. Do not touch the surfaces after degreasing.
2.
Apply the sealing agent (512565) on the timing gear housing with
the air powered sprayer (512559), cartridge adapter (512565) and
nozzle (512558).
The width of the bead should be between 0.8 and 1.2 mm.
Follow the pattern as illustrated.
Important!
Ensure that you apply sealing agent inside the screwholes,
but without allowing sealing agent into the crankcase.
The sealing agent may block channels and nozzles.
This is particularly important to bear in mind around oil ways,
where the flow of oil to the air compressor or injection
pump can be blocked.
Important!
Assembly must be completed within
25 minutes of starting to apply the sealing
agent.
Note:
The bolts are of various sizes and
lengths. Ensure that they are fitted
in the correct places. See also the
illustrations on the next page.
3.
Torque tighten the M12 bolts to 90 Nm and
the M10 bolts to 50 Nm.
4.
Fit the starter motor Apply the sealing agent on the timing gear
housing side against the transmission plate.
Apply the sealing agent around the screw
holes marked with arrows.
1.
Fit two guide pins 8412 in the crankshaft flange.
2.
Fit the flywheel on the crankshaft.
NOTE!
Always use new bolts and washer .
512563
99 411
3.
Lock the flywheel using tool:
- 512563 for engines with unit injector.
120 167
4.
Torque tighten the bolts alternately to
130 Nm and then a further 90°.
5.
Fit the engine speed sensors).
2 Crankshaft gear
3 Intermediate gear
6 Camshaft gear
7 Power take-off
The coolant pump and alternator are driven by the belt drive,
as also is the A/C compressor.
The drive belt is a “Multigroove V-belt”, i.e. the belt has numer-
ous V-shaped grooves on the drive side. The pulleys are of
corresponding design and the belt therefore has an extremely
large contact surface for its width. A large contact surface re-
duces the risk of belt slippage.
Included in the belt circuit are also jockey pulleys, the purpose
of which is to give the belt a good arc of contact round the pul-
leys.
1 Spacing sleeve
2 Roller
5 Roller
7 Belt tensioner
9 Poly V belt
10 Alternator
11 Coolant pump
12 A/C compressor
13 Pulley
1.
Remove the fan ring and the fan.
Thermostatic fan: Store it upright (vertical).
2.
Remove the belt(s), crankshaft damper and
belt pulley.
3.
Remove the driver bolts and withdraw the
driver. Mind the sealing surface.
4.
Pull or prise off the seal in the cover.
Take care to avoid damaging the sealing surface in the cover.
5.
Wipe the sealing surface in the cover clean.
Note: The crankshaft seal must be fitted dry and must not be
lubricated.
The sleeve in the seal should be left in place until the seal is fitted.
Tool 524615 with crankshaft seal
6.
Place the new seal on tool 8421 and press it in place by tightening
the diametrically opposite bolts alternately.
The seal is correctly fitted when the tool comes up
against the cover.
7.
Remove the tool by screwing the bolts into
the threaded holes.
8.
Wipe the driver sealing surface clean. Fit a
new seal on the end surface of the driver
and push the driver onto the spacing sleeve
on the end of the crankshaft.
9.
Bolt the driver to the crankshaft flange and
tighten the flange bolts to 135 Nm.
10.
Bolt the crankshaft damper and possibly the
belt pulley to the hub and tighten to 524615
110 Nm.
11.
Fit the belt(s), fan ring and fan.
Crankshaft damper
The power impulses from the connecting rods give rise to torsional oscillation in the crankshaft. These oscilla-
tions are severest at certain engine speeds which vary with the design of the engine, how it is loaded, etc.
The flywheel (at the “rear” end of the crankshaft) rotates at an almost constant speed throughout each revo-
lution of the crankshaft. Relative to the flywheel, the rotational speed of the front end of the crankshaft will
increase and decrease several times during each revolution.
To reduce the amplitude of the oscillation, a crankshaft damper is attached to the front end of the crank-
shaft.
A ring of steel is incorporated in the circular and completely enclosed housing of the crankshaft damper. The
housing is bolted onto the crankshaft.
There is a heavy oil between the housing and ring which damps the relative movement between the two. The
oscillation at the front of the crankshaft is damped by the ring striving to rotate with even speed.
The crankshaft damper has numerous belt grooves for a “Multigroove V-belt”, see also page 12
8413 Drift
8133 Drift
8049 Impact drift
8414 Support drift
8405 Flywheel turning tool 8413 8133 8049
8414 8405
8036
8467 8037
Intermediate gear
Intermediate gear
Removal
1.
Turn the crankshaft so that cylinder number 1
is close to TDC. Use tool 8405 and ratchet
handle on the flywheel starter ring gear. 8405
2.
Remove the flywheel as described in the
section Removing the flywheel.
3.
Remove the flywheel housing as described in
Removing the flywheel housing.
4.
Manufacture a thread block according to the
sketch.
5.
The shaft on which the gear is located has a
groove. Fit puller 8414, slide hammer
8049 and the thread block. Loosen the gear
and shaft.
Note:
After removing the intermediate
gear, neither the camshaft or the
crankshaft must be rotated. This
may cause pistons and valves to 8414
collide and be damaged. 8049
1.
Press the shaft out of the bearing.
2.
Press the bearing inner race shell from the
shaft and remove the retaining ring.
3.
Place the removed bearing inner race in the
bearing and press out the bearing using drift
8413
4.
Press a new bearing onto the shaft journal
using drift 8413.
Note:
Do not press on the outer race. 8133
5.
Press the bearing and shaft journal into the
intermediate gear using drift 8133
6.
Fit the snap ring.
7.
Press the spacing ring onto the shaft journal.
Ensure that the shaft journal is on the press
table.
Fitting
1.
Check that cylinder number 1 is close to
TDC. The markings on the camshaft gear and
crankshaft gear must point towards the centre
of the intermediate gear.
2.
Lubricate the bearing surfaces.
3.
Fit the intermediate gear against the camshaft
gear and the crankshaft gear so that the
markings point towards each other.
4.
Fit the second intermediate gear.
5.
Tighten the bolts on the intermediate gears to
50 Nm + 60°.
6.
Fit the flywheel housing as described in the
section Fitting the flywheel housing.
7.
Fit the flywheel as described in the section
Fitting the flywheel.
Camshaft gear
Removal
1.
Turn the crankshaft so that cylinder number 1
is close to TDC. Use tool 8405 and ratchet
handle on the flywheel starter ring gear.
2.
Remove the flywheel as described in the 8405
section Removing the flywheel.
3.
Remove the flywheel housing as described in
the section Removing the flywheel housing.
4.
Remove the intermediate gear.
Note: After removing the intermediate
gear, neither the camshaft nor the
crankshaft must be rotated. This
may cause pistons and valves to
collide and be damaged.
5.
Remove the camshaft gear.
Fitting
1.
Fit the camshaft gear and torque tighten the
bolts to 63 Nm.
2.
Fit the intermediate gear as described in
Intermediate gear, fitting.
3.
Fit the flywheel housing as described in the
section Fitting the flywheel housing.
4.
Fit the flywheel as described in the section
Fitting the flywheel.
Crankshaft gear
Removal
1.
Turn the crankshaft so that cylinder number 1
is close to TDC. Use tool 8405 and ratchet
handle on the flywheel starter ring gear.
2. 8405
Remove the flywheel as described in the
section Removing the flywheel.
3.
Remove the flywheel housing as described in
the section Removing the flywheel housing.
4.
Remove the intermediate gear.
Note:
After removing the intermediate
gear, neither the camshaft nor the
crankshaft must be rotated. This
may cause pistons and valves to
collide and be damaged.
5.
Remove the crankshaft gear.
Fitting
1.
Fit the crankshaft gear and guide pin.
2.
Fit the intermediate gear as described in
Intermediate gear, fitting.
3.
Fit the flywheel housing as described in the
section Fitting the flywheel housing.
4.
Fit the flywheel as described in the section
Fitting the flywheel.
Camshaft
Removal
1.
Remove the flywheel as described in
Removing the flywheel.
2.
Remove the flywheel housing as described in
Removing the flywheel housing.
3.
Remove rocker arms, pushrods and valve
bridges.
4.
Remove the camshaft gear.
5.
Remove the intermediate gear and the guide
flange bolts.
6.
Remove the timing gear plate.
7.
Remove the camshaft covers.
8.
Remove the valve tappets.
Note:
Mark the valve tappets because they
must be refitted in the same places.
9.
Pull the camshaft backwards. Take care not
to damage the cams and bearings.
Work description
1.
Remove the camshaft according to the
section Camshaft, removal.
2.
Remove the camshaft cover at the front end
of the engine.
Note:
Wipe around the edges and the
bearing seat surfaces around the
old bearings to avoid damaging
the contact surfaces when fitting
the new bearings.
3.
Wipe the bearing seat surfaces clean around
the old bearings.
Note:
The recess in the bearing joint
must be turned towards the front
of the engine.
8467
4.
Place the new bearings in the space
between the bearing seats for the camshaft.
5.
Place the flange nuts on the threaded stem,
included in tool 8467, as illustrated.
8467
6.
Take the threaded stem and insert the end
with flange nut number 1 from the rear
edge of the engine past the rearmost
bearing seat. Insert it further through the
bearing seats and the new bearings until
flange nut 1 protrudes from the front of the
engine.
7.
Screw the flange part of tool 8467
securely onto hydraulic cylinder 8036
with two M6x12 bolts. Press together
cylinder 8036 if not already in neutral
position.
8.
Screw the flange securely to the hydraulic
cylinder at the rear of the engine with two
of M10x25.
9.
Screw on flange nut 8, from tool 8467, 8036
onto the threaded stem.
10.
Hang a new bearing on the stem at the front
of the engine.
Note:
The recess in the bearing joint
must be turned towards the flange
on the press drifts. Secure the
bearing on the drift by placing the
spring-loaded ball in an oil way.
The bearing is correctly located on The bearing
the drift when the ball and a is correctly
marking hole are centred on the located on
bearing oil hole. the drift
when the
ball and a
marking
12. hole are
Clean around the bearing contact surface. opposite the
bearing’s oil
hole
Note:
The marking on the drift must be
uppermost and vertical so that the
oil hole in the bearing will be
central to the oil ways.
13.
Hold the press drift with the new bearing
against the old.
Note:
The new bearing is in the correct position before the
old bearing is completely released. The new bearing
has the correct position when the distance from the
front edge of the cylinder block to the front edge of
the press drift has a permitted value according
to the table.
Camshaft bearing
no. Distance (mm)
1 -12 to -14
2 150 to 152
3 314 to 316
4 478 to 480
7 970 to 972
14.
Press in the new bearing at the same time as
pressing out the old bearing with hydraulic
cylinder 8036 and hydraulic pump
8037. Check that the bearing is correctly
positioned by measuring.
15.
Carefully knock with a plastic hammer to
release the old bearing.
16.
Remove the press drift by detaching flange
nut 8 and pushing in the threaded stem.
Note:
The seats for camshaft bearings 2,
4 and 6 have two oil ducts. The
others only have the lower one.
17.
Check that the bearing oil hole is opposite
the cylinder block oil ducts. Extraction and pressing of bearing
number 2.
18.
Repeat the procedure for the remaining
bearings.
19.
Clean the sealing surface, take a new gasket
and fit the cover for the camshaft at the
front of the engine.
20.
Refit the camshaft according to the section
Fitting the Camshaft. Then perform a check
on the camshaft setting.
Fitting
1.
Fit the camshaft. Take care not to damage
the cams and bearings.
2.
Lubricate with engine oil and fit the valve tappets in the
same places as they were before removal.
Tighten the banjo bolts to 32 Nm.
3.
Fit the camshaft covers.
4.
Fit the guide flange bolts.
5.
Remove all old sealing compound on the sealing surfaces
of the timing gear casing and timing gear plate.
Clean off any oil and grease using an alcohol based
cleaning agent.
Note:
The sealing surfaces must be
absolutely clean and free from
grease. Do not touch the surfaces
after degreasing.
6.
Apply the sealing agent (512565) to the timing gear casing with
the special nozzle.
The width of the bead should be between 0.8 and 1.2 mm.
Follow the pattern as illustrated.
Important!
Ensure that you apply sealing
agent inside the screwholes, but without
allowing sealing agent into the crankcase.
The sealing agent may block channels and
nozzles. This is particularly important to
bear in mind around oil ways, where the
flow of oil to the air compressor or
injection pump can be blocked.
Important! Assembly must be completed
within 25 minutes of starting to apply the
sealing agent.
7.
Fit the timing gear plate on the engine block.
Tighten the bolts to 63 Nm.
8.
Fit the intermediate gear as described in
Intermediate gear, fitting.
9.
Ensure that the markings on the camshaft
gear point towards the centre of the
intermediate gear.
10.
Fit the camshaft gear and torque tighten the
bolts to 63 Nm.
11.
Fit the flywheel housing as described in
Fitting the flywheel housing.
12.
Fit the flywheel as described in Fitting the
flywheel.
2.
Put two dial gauges against the valve spring
thrust washers.
3.
Adjust the rocker arms to remove the free
play and then adjust them further so that both
valves are open 0.1 mm.
5.
Turn the crankshaft one revolution in its
direction of rotation until TDC position is
again achieved.
6.
Read off both dial gauges and compare with
the values given below:
The material is of major importance for the useful life of the crank-
shaft. Its design and surface treatment also help to extend its life
- for instance, the surface quality of the shaft journals is an impor
tant factor in providing protection against fatigue failure.
Removal
1.
Remove the crankshaft gear as described in
Removing the crankshaft gear.
2.
Remove the fan drive at the front end of the
crankshaft as described in Belt transmission,
Renewing the seal in the front cover.
3.
Remove the oil sump, oil suction pipe with
strainer and the oil pump.
4.
Remove the pistons and connecting rods as
described in Removing connecting rods and
pistons.
5.
Remove the crankshaft bearing caps and
main bearings.
Note:
The main bearings and bearing caps
are marked and must be refitted in
the same place.
6.
Lift out the crankshaft.
Cylinder block
Reconditioning
Thrust washers
Fitting
1.
Lubricate the main bearings and place them
in the block.
2.
Lift in the crankshaft.
3.
Insert the main bearings in the crankshaft
bearing caps and fit them.
Note:
Fit the main bearings and caps in
the same place as before removal.
4.
Machine 810109 (Tier3) -
Tighten the bearing cap bolts to 200 Nm
+ 90°.
5.
Fit the pistons with connecting rods as
described in Fitting the connecting rod and
piston. 200 Nm +90°
6. Fit the oil pump, oil suction pipe with strainer
and the oil sump.
7.
Renew the seal in the front cover. Fit the
spacing sleeve on the crankshaft journal. Fit
the driver and crankshaft damper. 90°
See Belt transmission, Renewing the seal in
the front cover.
8.
Fit the crankshaft gear as described in
Crankshaft gear, fitting.
Lubrication system
Oil pump
Too high oil pressure could cause excessive stress to 1. Oil pump
components in the lubrication system.
1. Oil pump
2. Flange bolt
3. Gasket
4. Flange bolt
5. Suction pipe
6. Strainer
NOTE! 7. Ring
In the case of leakage or fault in the 8. Flange bolt
oil pump, it should not be recondi- 9. Pipe
tioned but should be 10. Seal
renewed as a unit.
Lubrication oilways
The lubrication oil passes through channels in the cylinder block to reach the camshaft bearings and
the crankshaft main bearing.
Lubrication oil for the rocker arms is led via a direct channel from the main oilway.
1. Oil pump
2. Oil cooler
3. Oil cleaner centrifuge
4. Piston cooling nozzle
5. Oil filter
6. Oil sump
Oil pressure
From the oil pump, the lubricating oil flows via passages in the
block to the oil cooler located inside the front side cover on the
right-hand side of the block.
All the oil flows through the cooler where it is cooled by the cool-
ant from the cooling system.
An oil pressure valve (5) is located in the coil cooler housing for
cooling the pistons.
It has an opening pressure of 3 bar. No piston cooling therefore
takes place at low engine speeds (idling).
See also under Lubrication oilways.
1. Oil cooler
2. O-ring
3. O-ring
4. Flange bolt
5. Oil cooler cover
6. Core plug
7. Cover
8. Gasket
9. Bolt
10. Piston
11. Spring
12. Plug
13. Gasket
14. Gasket
15. Flange bolt
Important !
Oil cooler core tightening torques: 26 Nm
1.
Remove the side cover and oil cooler from
the block.
2.
Remove the 4 bolts securing the oil cooler to
the side cover.
3.
Remove the oil cooler.
4.
Renew the 4 O-rings.
5.
Fit the oil cooler insert and bolt securely to
the side cover using 26 Nm torque.
6.
Bolt the side cover to the block.
Lower the oil cooler complete with the housing into a water bath. 4
3 2
1
Where there is leakage, renew the parts which leak and carry out
the pressure test one more tim
0
4 1
3 2
132273
Oil filter
From the oil cooler, the oil passes through a large-capacity full-
flow filter of paper.
The oil filter has an overflow valve which opens if the filter be-
comes clogged. Unfiltered oil than continues to the engine and
6 510 525
only some of the oil is cleaned in the centrifugal cleaner.
12
7 1. Filter head
2. Gasket
3. Seal
13
4. Straight union
7 5. Gasket
8 6. Flange bolt
7. O-ring
8. Pressure censor
9. Union
10. Overflow valve
11. Oil filter
12. Adapter
13. Screw
6 510and
The rotor should be dismantled 525 cleaned at
definite intervals according to the inspection pro
gramme included in the operator’s manual.
DC12 50
A 04 P
6510525
1. Housing
2. Plug
3. Gasket
4. Spring
5. Piston
6. Plug
7. Washer
8.Shaft
9. Nozzle
10. Rotor
11. Strainer
12. O-ring (change when cleaning)
13. Rotorbowl
14. Nut
15. Snap ring
16. O-ring (change when cleaning)
17. Cover
18. Lifting eye
19. O-ring
20. Lock nut
21. Nipple
22. Gasket
1.
Undo the nut holding the outer cover and
remove the nut.
2.
Drain out the oil from the rotor
3.
Lift out the rotor. Wipe off the outside. Undo
the rotor nut and unscrew it about three turns
to protect the bearing.
Note:
The rotor must not be put in a vice.
Never strike the rotor bowl. This
may cause damage resulting in
imbalance.
4.
If the rotor nut is difficult to get loose, turn
the rotor upside down and fasten the rotor nut
in a vice.
5.
Turn the rotor counterclockwise 1,5 turns
by hand, or if this does not help, use M20 screw
and nut as shovn at the figure
6.
Grasp the rotor bowl and tap lightly with
your hand or carefully use a screwdriver between the rotor bowl
and the strainer so that the rotor bowl comes loose from the
rotor.
Note:
Never strike on the rotor directly as
this may damage its bearings.
6.
Remove the rotor nut and bowl from the
rotor.
7.
Remove the strainer located on the rotor. If
the strainer has fastened, prise carefully with
a knife or screwdriver at the bottom between the rotor and
the strainer.
8.
Scrape away the deposits inside the bowl
with a knife.
9.
Wash the parts.
10.
Inspect the two nozzles on the rotor. Make
sure they are not blocked or damaged.
Renew with new rotor if
any damaged on the nozzles.
11.
Make sure the bearings are not damaged.
Renew with new rotor if
any damaged on the bearing
12.
Position the O-ring in the lid. Renew the
O-ring if it is at all damaged.
13.
Assemble the parts and tighten the rotor nut
by hand.
14.
When tighten the rotor axle (point 15) its neccesarry to modified
the Socket spanner 8023 with to weld nut M20 without threads,
on the square end.
See the figure.
The socket spanner 8023 is still usable for the old type of the cen-
trifugalfilter after this modification
14.
Make sure the shaft is not loose. If it is, it can
be locked using screw locking compound.
First clean thoroughly using a suitable
solvent.
15.
Tighten the rotor shaft using socket 8023.
Tightening torque 34 Nm.
16
Refit the rotor and spin it by hand to make
sure it rotates easily.
17.
Inspect the O-ring on the cleaner housing
cover and fit it with a lock nut.
Tighten the lock nut to 15 Nm.
The oil mist separator is driven by oil from the lubrication system. The oil flows into the oil mist separator and is
sprayed onto the turbine located on the rotor shaft. The oil then flows out and back to the oil sump.
The rotor consists of a number of tapered plastic plates which are located on top of one another. There is a
space for the crankcase gases and oil particles between each plate.
The crankcase gases and oil particles flow into the oil mist separator through the union in the top of the oil mist
separator housing. The oil particles stick to the rotating plates and the centrifugal force causes the oil particles
to be thrown against the wall of the oil mist separator housing. The oil which has been separated from the
crankcase gases runs down along the walls of the oil mist separator housing and then flows out of the oil mist
separator via the centrifugal oil cleaner to the oil sump. The centrifugal oil cleaner contains an oil trap. The oil
trap is there so that oil from the oil sump is not drawn in the wrong direction.
The cleaned crankcase gases flow out of the oil mist separator via a diaphragm which acts as a pressure regu-
lator. When the vacuum downstream of the oil mist separator is too great, the diaphragm will close the opening
until the pressure has risen again.
The oil mist separator does not normally need to be dismantled for cleaning.
NOTE !
1 Oil mist separator housing Remove the oil mist
(different version for closed separator from the
crankcase ventilation) engine before it is dis-
2 O-ring mantled.
3 Nipple
4 Heat shield
5 Screw
6 Diaphragm (not used on oil mist
separator for closed crankcase
ventilation)
7 Diaphragm spring (not used on
oil mist separator for closed
crankcase ventilation)
8 Cover (different version for
closed crankcase ventilation)
9 O-ring
10 Nipple (not used on oil mist
separator for closed crankcase
ventilation)
11 Screw
12 Screw (not used on oil mist
separator for closed crankcase
ventilation)
13 Upper bearing retainer
14 Screw
15 Retaining ring
16 Spring
17 Separator
18 Washer
19 Retaining ring
20 O-ring
21 Insert
22 Lower bearing retainer
23 Turbine
24 Retaining ring
25 O-ring
26 O-ring
27 Turbine housing
28 Washer
29 Straight nipple
3. Note!
Cover all inlets and outlets.
3. Remove the turbine (23) from the rotor unit shaft. Press
the turbine downwards and release the retaining ring (24).
1. Fit the rotor discs (17) on the rotor shaft and fit the
retaining ring (19).
5. Press the rotor assembly down into the oil mist sepa
rator housing (1).
2. Hold the sensor against the oil mist separator and read
the multimeter. The value should be at least 150 Hz at
an engine speed of 1,000 rpm.
Important!
Make sure that you never run an alternator without the batteries connected!
This may cause the rectifiers and/or charge regulator to be overloaded and damaged.
Note!
To obtain a correct result, the alternator should be kept at a temperature of 20-25°C. A higher temperature may
give a lower current.
When the engine control unit has generated fault codes for the alternator, the following tests can be carried out.
• Output test
• Control voltage test
• Phase measurement
• Length of brushes
• Slip rings, rotor resistance and overcharging
1. Output test Bosch 100A: Carry out volt- Carry out phase
>40A and 28V age test measurement
Control voltage test 28 +/- 1.0V at 20°C Alternator OK Check the brush
length
Slip rings¹ The surface should Check the ro- Renew alternator
be smooth and bright tor resistance
Rotor resistance be- Bosch 100A: Carry out over- Renew alternator
tween the slip rings (at 8.5 +/-0.5 ohms charging test
20°C)¹
Output test
Connection to batteries
2. Start the engine and run it at idling speed for a few minutes.
Then note how much current is supplied from the alternator to the
batteries. Check at the same time that the voltmeter does not fall
below 27 V. Run the engine at approximately 500 rpm.
4. Hold the engine speed at 500 rpm and apply loads to the system by using the vehicle’s current consum-
ers in accordance with the test report, column Check value. See below for examples of current consumers.
Add the current you read at the batteries to the sum of the loads you are applying.
Example using 80 A Bosch alternator: If you obtained a value of 10 A at the batteries, you only need to apply a
load of 25 A to the alternator instead of 35 A. 10 A+25 A=35 A
5. Run the engine for a time while you are applying the load. Read the voltmeter again. It should still not
show less than 27 V.
Voltage test
Carry out this test especially if you suspect there is overcharging.
Note!
The batteries should be fully charged
to give good results, i.e. maximum
consumption at 10A.
Connection to batteries
2. Load the system with approximately 10-20A by using various
current consumers.
3. Allow the engine to run for a while. The voltage on the volt-
meter should be 28V +/- 0.5V at 20°C.
Phase measurement
Keep the voltmeter connected as it was for the voltage test, but
reset it to the AC voltage position.
Length of brushes
Check that the length of the carbon brushes does not fall below the permitted length, see specification.
1 Check that the surfaces of the slip rings are smooth and bright. If the surfaces are not bright, this
indicates poor contact with the carbon brushes.
2 Measure the rotor resistance, see measurement specification. Refer to the illustration.
Important!
Mark the front housing against the
rear housing to make it easier when
assembly the housings.
5. Remove the rotor from the rear housing as follows: Refit the
nut on the rotor shaft. Hold the rotor in the nut and gently tap all
around the housing until the rotor comes loose.
Important!
Make sure that you do not damage the stator winding and rotor.
Note!
Use soft jaws on the vice so as
not to damage the rotor.
Remove the bearing on the rotor using puller plate 587 517 and
bearing puller 587 518.
9. Put a sleeve on the bearing and tap out the old bearing from
the front housing.
10. Fit a new bearing. Fit the front housing in the vice and press
it into position using a sleeve on the outer race.
Important!
Check that the marks on the
housings are aligned.
Important!
The pulley nut must be tightened to the
correct torque, otherwise there is a risk
that it will come loose.
1 Pump housing
2 Bolt, 4 off
3 Washer, 4 off
4 O-ring, 2 off
5 Support ring, 2 off
6 Plug
7 O-ring
8 Compression spring
9 Control valve
10 Pressure plate
11 Rotor housing
12 Rotor
13 Vanes
14 Wear plat15e
15 O-ring
16 Guide pin, 2 off
17 O-ring
18 End plate
19 Spacing ring
20 Sealing ring
21 Washer
22 Axle
23 Retaining ring
24 Bearing
25 Retaining ring
26 Gear
27 Nut
28 Flange
29 Gasket
30 Stud, 2 off
31 Bolt, 5 off
6. Screw the two oil hoses of the hydraulic pump into place.
1. Drain all oil from the pump and clean it on the outside.
Note!
Use soft jaws on the puller to protect the gear from damage.
Note!
Note!
If any of these parts are damaged or visually worn,
the complete pump must be replaced.
Note!
If any of these parts are damaged or visually worn, the rotor assembly must be renewed.
Renew the following parts:
O rings 4, 7, 15 and 17
Support rings 5
Sealing ring 20
Retaining ring 23
1 Pump housing
2 Bolt, 4 off
3 Washer, 4 off
4 O-ring, 2 off
5 Support ring, 2 off
6 Plug
7 O-ring
8 Compression spring
9 Control valve
10 Pressure plate
11 Rotor housing
12 Rotor
13 Vanes
14 Wear plat15e
15 O-ring
16 Guide pin, 2 off
17 O-ring
18 End plate
19 Spacing ring
20 Sealing ring
21 Washer
22 Axle
23 Retaining ring
24 Bearing
25 Retaining ring
26 Gear
27 Nut
28 Flange
29 Gasket
30 Stud, 2 off
31 Bolt, 5 off
SHOP MANUAL DA30-DA40 - 02.2012
Ch 1 page 158 Engine
3. Press on the sealing ring using drift 99 255 and shank 98 450.
5. Tap the shaft into the end plate with a rubber mallet.
7. Fit two new O-rings, 15 and 17, in the mating face. Fit the
guide pins 16.
8. Fit the wear plate 14. Turn the wear plate so that the groove
faces the rotor housing.
Note!
Turn the rotor housing so that the oil channels A will not be
blocked.
10. Fit the rotor 12 with the chamfered side facing the flange.
Make sure that the rounded part of the vanes 13 is facing out-
wards.
11. Fit the pressure plate 10 with oil channel C facing the rotor
housing.
12. Fit new O-rings 4 and oil channel support rings in the pump
housing.
13. Assemble the housing and the end plate. Make sure that the
oil channels and the O-rings are lined up. Fit the bolts 2.
1 Pump housing
2 Bolt, 4 off
3 Washer, 4 off
4 O-ring, 2 off
5 Support ring, 2 off
6 Plug
7 O-ring
8 Compression spring
9 Control valve
10 Pressure plate
11 Rotor housing
12 Rotor
13 Vanes
14 Wear plat15e
15 O-ring
16 Guide pin, 2 off
17 O-ring
18 End plate
19 Spacing ring
20 Sealing ring
21 Washer
22 Axle
23 Retaining ring
24 Bearing
25 Retaining ring
26 Gear
27 Nut
28 Flange
29 Gasket
30 Stud, 2 off
31 Bolt, 5 off
14.
Renew the O-ring 7 on the hexagonal plug. Fit the valve insert
and spring and screw in the plug.
Note!
Make sure the control valve is turned as illustrated.
Important!
The shaft end and the gear must be degreased and free of oil and
grease before fitting.
15. Fit the gear (26) and the nut (27) as follows:
16. Check the pressure and flow after assembly and fitting. See
Workshop Manual main group 13, Testing the hydraulic system
Important !
Use only Loctite 406 when fitting the gasket. Loctite 406 does
not contain any solvents that will damage the gasket
Note!
Cleanliness when fitting the gasket is essential for the flange
to be tight. Keep the surfaces around and on the flange clean
and free from dirt.
1 Remove the gasket from the paper.
4 Refit the flange. Use existing bolts with sealing agent or new bolts
coated with sealing agent.
The fan is driven by the hydraulic system and is moved to the hydraulic chapter.
Water cooler
Air cooler
Front brake
condenser
oil cooler
Cover
Charge air
cooler
Transmission
oil cooler
En
g AC
wa ine Ch
ter co co arge
coo nd Fan ole a
ler en r ir
se
r
Ex
tan pans
Bra k io n
coo ke oi
ler l
Th
erm
ost
at
Tra
n
oil c smiss
oole ion
r
Oil to transmission
W.P
ump
Inl
et
fro
m
filt
er
Exh
aust
To
t
hea he ca
ter b
From
cab the
hea
ter
Circulation
From the pump, the coolant is carried into the cyl¬inder block’s longitudinal distribution ducting and then
through holes in the cylinder block, washes round the cylinder liners and flows up to the cylinder heads.
The coolant is also forced directly up into the cyl¬inder heads from the distribution ducting via pas-sages which
leads to the injectors and exhaust valves.
From the engine’s rear cylinder head the coolant flows forward through the pipe directly into the thermostat
housing, which is located on the left-hand side of the radiator shield.
The by pass in the thermostat housing forwards the coolant which is under the temperature limit for the ther-
mostat, back to the engine through the transmission cooler. The coolant which needs to be cooled, are going
through the open thermostat and to the radiator cooler system, through the transmission cooler and back to the
engine, where the coolant pump is circulating the coolant in the system.
The cab heater takes the heat coolant from the pipe line on the backside of the engine, and after heating the
cab, the returned coolant is going to the right-hand side of the engine where the coolant pump is located.
The turbo sucks air through a filter and then pushes the charge air through the charge air cooler. The hot
charge air, on the inside of the CAC, is cooled by the cooling air - going through the CAC on the outside. The
cooling air on the outside is sucked through all the coolers (in the cooling package) by a hydraulic fan. The
pressure of the air, in the air charge system, to the cylinders is approx 1 - 2 bar (gauge), depend on the en-
gine’s rpm.
Thermostat Expansion
housing tank
Engine
cooler
AC dryer
filter
Brake oil
cooler
AC condenser
Charge air
cooler
1
Drain the coolant and transmission oil.
First, remove both cover on the underside front frame left and
1
right side.
On the right side under the transmission cooler unscrew the plug
(Nv 13mm) and drain the transmission oil from the system.
NOTE !
Use a clean drum or similar if the cooling water shall be
reused.
Its recommend to supply with new oil when refilling
oil to the transmission.
2
Disassemble the wiring and hose, remove the fastening wiring
strips and clamps from the brackets.
3
Disconnect the cooling hoses from the thermostat housing and the
outlet hose from the transmission oil cooler.
4
Disassemble the hose on the charge air cooler
5
Disconnect hoses between the expansion tank and the engine.
5
Disassemble oil hoses from the transmission oil cooler
NOTE !
Oil under hydraulic pressure !
The oil system for the fan motor is in the same oil system
as the brake, therefore it is recomended when disassemble
hoses or units from this system, allways to eliminate pressure
in the accumulator,
locate in front of the cab. (2 on left and side 2 on the right
side). this can be doing with to operate the brake pedal sev-
eral times. (Approx 15-20 times)
6
Disassemble the Air Condition hose clamp and the condenser at
the front from cooling pack.
Place the condenser and the dryer filter on the left side of the
engine.
NOTE !
Do not disassemble the Air Condition hoses
from the condenser filter or the compressor.
7
Fastening the lifting device to the radiator unit.
8
Disassemble the upper bracket between engine and fan bracket,
(3 screws).
9
Disassemble lower fastening 2 screws
(left and right hand side)
10
Check again that all wiring and hoses are disassembled.
1. Termostat housing
2. Thermostat
3. Gasket
4. Cover
5. Stud
6. Flange nut
1 1
1. Coolant from the engine 2
2. By-pass channel (back to the coolant pump)
3. Outlet to the radiator
Thermostat
Removing
1.
Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
2.
Remove the hose from the thermostat
housing cover.
Fitting
1.
Apply Loctite No. 510
Clean the thermostat housing and check that
nothing obstructs the function of the thermo Part No. 516204
stat.
Assemble cover;
2. Screw No. 051735 M8 x 38 - 8.8
Insert the thermostat in the housing. Fit new Nut No. 502975 M8
gaskets and screw the thermostat housing to-
gether. Torque with 24 Nm
3.
Fill the system with coolant.
See OPERATING & MAINTENANCE MANUAL
chapter 7 for the composition of the coolant.
4.
Start the engine and check that there are no
leaks.Check the coolant level and top up as
necessary.
Coolant pump
The coolant pump is located at the front side of the front cover on the right-hand side of the engine.
The coolant pump is driven by a multigroove belt directly from the crankshaft damper.
The pump is of centrifugal type and consists of a spiral shaped pump housing with an impeller directly
mounted on the driveshaft. The shaft is mounted in the housing and by means of two permanently
lubricated ball bearings.
The pump shaft bearing is sealed against the ingress of coolant by an elastic axial seal.
3
4
2
1. Outlet to engine
2. By-pass channel
3. Static line
4. Return from charge air cooler
5. Coolant from radiator
Removing
1.
Drain the cooling system through the drain
taps in the block and in the pipe from the
outlet on the radiator.
2.
Remove any protection meshes and fan ring
with sealing ring to gain access to the fan.
3.
Remove the fan.
4.
Turn the automatic belt tensioner and prise
the poly-V-belt off the coolant pump pulley.
5.
Remove the coolant pump assembly.
Fitting the pump
1.
Clean old gasket debris from the sealing
surfaces.
2.
Fit the pump without damaging the seal(s). 1. Front cover
2. Gasket
3. 3. Pump cover
Fit the automatic belt tensioner. 4. Shaft with bearing
5. Sealing ring
4. 6. Impeller
Fit the (poly-V) drive belt and any protection 7. Pulley
mesh and fan ring with sealing ring. 8. Guide sleeve
9. Flange screw
5. 10. Flange screw
Fit the fan.
6.
Fill the cooling system. See booklet 00:03-01
for the composition of the coolant.
7.
Start the engine and check that no leakage
occurs. Check the level of the coolant and top
up as necessary.
2.
Press the pulley on until it is flush with the
shaft end face.
501349
1.
Place the pump with pulley on a flat and level 501354
surface.
2.
Fit puller 501354 using two M 8 x 65 mm
bolts and drift 501349. Pull off the impeller.
501349
3.
Split the carbon ring on the seal and remove
the debris.
4.
Prise off the seal using two screwdrivers and
separator plates.
Note:
Do not damage the pump housing
gasket surface.
Important!
Sealing agent (501350) should be used sparingly. There is a
risk of the sliding surfaces being glued together. 501351
6.
Press in the new sealing ring with drift
501351 until the edge of the brass sleeve abuts
against the pump housing. Keep it under
pressure for about 10 seconds.
Note:
It is very important that tool 501351 is used. It is designed to
correctly preload the spring which holds the seal.
The new seal ring is pressed in
7. Press on the impeller using drift 501351 until
the clearance between the gasket surface of
the pump housing and the end of the impeller
shaft is 13.3 - 13.7 mm.
Important!
The shaft must not change position in the pump housing as
there is a danger that the sealing ring would then also
change its position.
External cleaning
Radiator
- Check that the radiator is not clogged on the air side and
that the cooling fins are not damaged.
- Carefully scrape the deposit off the radiator’s cooling fins.
If necessary, a paraffin-based engine cleaner can be used.
- Bent fins can be straightened using a wire brush, for example,
and exercising care.
Internal cleaning
Removing deposits
Lubrication system
Injection system
Cooling system
Intake system
Permissible pressure drop in the system with cleaned or new filter 400/16
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Permissible pressure drop in the system with blocked (dirty) filter 650/26
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Electrical system
Type 1-pi n, 24 V , DC
Starter motor (standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 24 V , 5.5 kW
A l ternator (standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 28 V , 100 A
Lubrication system
Injection system
Cooling system
Intake system
Permissible pressure drop in the system with cleaned or new filter 400/16
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Permissible pressure drop in the system with blocked (dirty) filter 650/26
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Electrical system
Type 1-pi n, 24 V , DC
Starter motor (standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 24 V , 6 kW
A l ternator (standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 28 V , 100 A
Lubrication system
Injection system
Cooling system
Intake system
Permissible pressure drop in the system with cleaned or new filter 300/12
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Permissible pressure drop in the system with a clogged (dirty) filter 500/20
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Electrical system
T ype 1-pi n, 24 V , D C
S tarter motor ( standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 24 V , 5. 5 k W
A l ternator ( standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 28 V , 100 A
Lubrication system
Injection system
T y pe PD E ( uni t i nj ector)
C ontrol sy stem E MS
F uel f i l ter Paper f i l ter f rom S cani a
F uel f i l ter wi th water separator Paper f i l ter f rom S cani a
Cooling system
Intake system
Permissible pressure drop in the system with cleaned or new filter 300/12
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Permissible pressure drop in the system with a clogged (dirty) filter 500/20
(mmH2O/inH2O)
Electrical system
T ype 1-pi n, 24 V , D C
S tarter motor ( standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 24 V , 5. 5 k W
A l ternator ( standard equi pment) 1-pi n, 28 V , 100 A
The fuel system is very sensitive to dirt. It is therefore very important that everything is as clean as possible
when work is carried out on the fuel system.
Start troubleshooting by looking at troubleshooting tree S-a. This troubleshooting tree helps you to choose
where to start troubleshooting.
The troubleshooting trees are read from the top down. The boxes contain instructions you can follow. These
instructions sometimes refer to other more detailed instructions further on in the document. After having carried
out the instructions, you should continue to the next set of instructions indicated by the arrows.
Before and after troubleshooting the XPI fuel system, check the following:
S-a Basic check
Before and after troubleshooting the XPI fuel system, check the following:
Check the feed pump as L-c Measure the feed pump as described
described in L3. in L6.
No fuel A little fuel The The pressure is normal
comes out comes out pressure
is too The problem may be on the
low high pressure side. If the
engine can be started,
Check the feed pump drive continue from H-a.
as described in L4. Otherwise continued from H-b.
The feed The feed
pump drive pump is Renew both fuel filters. Bleed the fuel
is not working defective system and measure the feed pressure
as described in L6 again.
H-a High pressure check when the engine will not start.
H-a High pressure check when the engine will not start
Note: When renewing the suction filter, check the following with the suction filter removed.
1. Pump with the hand pump and check that fuel free from air flows out of the hole on the inside of the filter housing.
2. If no fuel comes out, check the suction strainer and all joints on the suction pipe up to the fuel tank armature.
Renew the seals and check-tighten the connections.
3. If fuel comes out, fit a new filter and bleed the fuel system.
1. Detach the pipe for outlet fuel from the feed pump. Place a container under the free end of the pipe.
2. Turn the engine over using the starter motor for about 20 seconds. The feed pump provides about 1.2 l/min. The
correct quantity for 20 seconds is 0.3-0.4 litres.
1. Remove the feed pump from the high pressure pump bracket.
2. Turn the feed pump by hand. The pump should rotate freely and the drive shaft in the pump should be intact. 3.
Check that the drive pins in the high pressure pump are intact.
4. Turn the engine over using the starter motor. Check that the feed pump drive in the high pressure pump rotates.
4. If the pump drive gear in the timing gear rotates and is not damaged:
Check that the high pressure pump gear is properly seated on the shaft. If the gear is loose, the shaft may be dam-
aged. Do not tighten the gear. Renew the high pressure pump. If the gear is jammed, the high pressure pump is
defective. Renew the high pressure pump.
L6 – Checking the supply pressure at the test connection on the high pressure pump
1. Connect pressure gauge 99 362 to the test connection on the high pressure pump and open the test connection.
2. Turn the engine over using the starter motor. Read the pressure after approximately 20 seconds.
The pressure should be more than 2 bar.
Note:
Low feed pump pressure may be caused by a defective feed pump, or may be a symptom of a high
pressure pump with a defective cylinder head. Note: Make sure that the battery level is high enough to
run the engine at 90 rpm with the starter motor.
3. If the engine will start. Increase the engine speed to 1,500 rpm. Read the pressure.
The pressure should be be tween 9 and 14 bar.
Note:
Bear in mind when doing this that there is no method of confirming whether a fuel filter is blocked.
If the complaint is that fault code 135 is activated when under heavy load, this is a probable cause.
The high pressure pump can still create a pressure of between 9 and 14 bar even with a blocked filter.
Note:
Always use the latest version of SDP3 if possible.
1. Follow the instructions for “Fuel leak test” in SDP3. For SDP3 version 2.7:
3. Switch off the engine. Read the pressure remaining in the accumulator using SDP3. There should be some
pressure remaining. If the pressure falls more than 300 bar within one (1) minute, there are internal leaks.
4. Check cylinder balancing at idling speed using SDP3. Note if any cylinder deviates.
5. Perform a cylinder output test using SDP3. Note which cylinder deviates from the others by having a higher output.
6. By comparing the two results with each other, a cylinder with deviations in both tests can be identified.
Note:
Remember that several injectors can sometimes be faulty at the same time.
2. Start the engine. Read the pressure with the engine idling. The pressure should be below 0.8 bar. If the pressure
exceeds 0.8 bar the overflow valve on the return fuel manifold should be cleaned and visually inspected. Start again
from step 1.
Note:
When the overflow valve is removed air will be introduced, against the direction of flow. It will take some time for the
system to bleed itself. During this time the measurement is not reliable. Leave the engine idling for a while before
repeating the test. If the pressure still exceeds 0.8 bar, there is internal leakage in an injector.
3. Switch off the engine, remove the pressure gauge and close the test connection.
1. Start and run the engine at idling speed for 15 seconds and then switch off with the key. Check whether the return
line from the safety valve to the return fuel manifold is hot.
2. If it is hot this is because the safety valve was open when the engine was last run. The most probable cause of
this is that the fuel inlet metering valve is stuck in the open position. Continue troubleshooting by renewing the fuel
inlet metering valve.
3. If the return line is not hot, start the engine and run the check “Leak testing the safety valve” with SDP3 without
removing the return line.
Warning!
!
For safety reasons it is important that the return line is not removed during step 3. If the safety valve were to open
during the check with the line removed, hot fuel would spray out with great force.
4. If the return line becomes hot during the check “Leak testing the safety valve” the safety valve is faulty. Continue
troubleshooting by renewing it.
5. If the return line does not become hot but the accumulator pressure does not reach 2,400 bar, the safety valve is
probably working. Cancel the check and continue troubleshooting the fuel system.
Warning!
!
The accumulator may be under high pressure. Reduce the pressure using SDP3 before starting work.
6. If the return line does not become hot and the accumulator pressure reaches 2,400 bar, remove the return line
and run the check “Leak testing the safety valve” again. If the safety valve leaks more than 3 drops a minute it is
faulty and needs to be renewed.
1. Remove the high pressure pipe to the injector which has been identified in H1.
2. Plug the outlet of the identified injector at the outlet port on the fuel accumulator using tool 99 019. If the
outlet port of cylinder 1 has to be plugged, see the instructions in TI 03-08 01 28.
3. Start the engine and repeat H1. This system should be able to maintain pressure.
Note:
Remember that several injectors can sometimes be faulty at the same time. Therefore if a faulty injec-
tor cannot be verified, plug it and repeat step H1. If no other faulty injector can be verified, continue
troubleshooting as described in H6.
A tool must be made to determine whether the fuel system is leaking. A pressure regulator, a shut-off valve,
two hose couplings, hose clamps, hose and Tema quick release coupling 1100N for connection to the test
connection are required. Assemble the parts as illustrated on the next page. It is vital that all couplings and
connections are tight.
1. Detach and remove all high pressure pipes between the accumulator and the high pressure connections.
2. Connect the tool to the test connection on the return fuel manifold and open the test connection.
Important !
Open the fuel filler cap so that the pressure does not deform the tank.
3. Pressurise the return fuel manifold. Slowly increase the pressure. Listen for a bubbling noise in the tank. The
bubbling noise indicates at what pressure the overflow valve opens. The pressure should be higher than 0.5
bar. Then pressurise the manifold to max. 3 bar.
4. Listen for return leakage in the injectors by blocking one high pressure connection at a time and quickly
removing the obstacle. If there is internal leakage in the injector, a hissing sound will be heard.
5. Renew the injector or injectors with internal leakage as described above. When renewing an injector, the
tuning code of the new injector must be programmed to the correct cylinder using SDP3 and basic setting of
injector adaptation must be performed.
Important !
After renewing an injector with internal leakage, the engine oil must be changed and the oil filter renewed. If
there is internal leakage, soot quickly builds up in the engine oil.
A B
153 069
C
1. Connect pressure gauge 99 362 to the test connection on the return fuel manifold and open the test
connection.
2. Crank the engine using the starter motor. Read the pressure after approximately 20 seconds. The pressure
should be below 0.8 bar.
3. If there is no detectable value after 20 seconds, let the starter motor cool and repeat step 2.
Note:
If there is air in the filter housing, pressure cannot build up. Vent the filter housing and try again.
1. Remove the return line from the safety valve to the return fuel manifold so that it vents straight out into the
atmosphere.
2. Crank the engine using the starter motor. If fuel leaks out of the safety valve, it is faulty and must be
renewed.
1. Check the cylinder head on the high pressure pump as described in the workshop manual, see section
03-00 Fuel system Scania XPI. If a fault is detected, then renew the cylinder head.
2. If the cylinder head is OK or if there are still problems, it may be due to a defective fuel inlet metering valve.
Try fitting a new fuel inlet metering valve.
3. If the problem still persists, the problem may be in the high pressure pump. Renew the high pressure pump
and continue to S-a to confirm.
1 Connect pressure gauge 99 362 to the test connection on the return fuel manifold and open the test
connection.
2 Start the engine. Read the pressure with the engine idling. The value should be below 0.8 bar. If the pres
sure exceeds 0.8 bar the overflow valve on the return fuel manifold should be cleaned and visually inspected.
Note:
When the overflow valve is removed air will be introduced, opposite the flow direction. It will take
some time for the system to bleed itself. During this time the measurement is not reliable.
Leave the engine idling for a while before repeating the test. If the pressure still exceeds 0.8 bar,
there is internal leakage in an injector.
3 Switch off the engine, remove the pressure gauge and close the test connection.
Warning!
!
The accumulator may be under high pressure. Reduce the
pressure using SDP3 before starting work.
• Gearbox in neutral.
1 Check cylinder balancing at idling speed using SDP3. Note if any cylinder deviates.
2 Perform a cylinder output test using SDP3. Note which cylinder deviates from the others by having a
higher output.
3 By comparing the two results with each other, a cylinder with deviations in both tests can be identified.
Continue troubleshooting on the injector for that cylinder.
1 Remove the high pressure pipe to the injector which has been identified in H4.
2 Plug the outlet of the identified injector at the outlet port on the fuel accumulator using tool 99 019.
If the outlet port of cylinder 1 has to be plugged, see the instructions in TI 03-08 01 28.
3 Start the engine and run it at idling speed for at least 15 seconds.
4 Switch off the engine. Read the pressure remaining in the accumulator using SDP3. If the pressure is
more than 0 bar after 1 minute, the faulty injector has been found and must be renewed. If the faulty
injector cannot be verified, continue troubleshooting in accordance with H6.
Warning!
!
There is a risk of fuel splashing from the high pressure connections when pressurised.
The accumulator may be under high pressure. Reduce the pressure using SDP3 before starting work.
A tool must be made to determine whether the fuel system is leaking. A pressure regulator, a shut-off valve,
two hose couplings, hose clamps, hose and Tema quick release coupling 1100N for connection to the test connection
are needed. Assemble the parts as illustrated on the next page. It is vital that all couplings and connections are tight.
1 Detach and remove all high pressure pipes between the accumulator and the high pressure connections.
2 Connect the tool to the test connection on the return fuel manifold and open the test connection.
IMPORTANT!
Open the fuel filler cap so that the pressure does not deform the tank.
3 Pressurise the return fuel manifold. Slowly increase the pressure. Listen for a bubbling noise in the tank.
The bubbling noise indicates at what pressure the overflow valve opens. The pressure should be higher
than 0.5 bar. Then pressurise the manifold to max. 3 bar.
4 Listen for return leakage in the injectors by blocking one high pressure connection at a time and
quickly removing the obstacle. If there is internal leakage in the injector, a hissing sound will be heard.
5 Renew the injector or injectors with internal leakage as described above.
6 When renewing an injector, the tuning code of the new injector must be programmed to the correct
cylinder using SDP3 and basic setting of injector adaptation must be performed.
IMPORTANT!
After renewing an injector with internal leakage, the engine oil must be changed and the oil filter renewed.
If there is internal leakage, soot quickly builds up in the engine oil.
A B
153 069
C - Hose for connection to the fuel system C
H7 - Checking the return fuel pressure
1 Connect pressure gauge 99 362 to the test connection on the return fuel manifold and open the test
connection.
2 Turn the engine over using the starter motor. Read the pressure after approximately 20 seconds. The
value should be below 0.8 bar.
3 f there is no detectable value after 20 seconds, let the starter motor cool and repeat step 2.
Note:
If there is air in the filter housing, pressure cannot build up. Vent the filter housing and try again.
4 Remove the pressure gauge and close the test connection. H7 - Checking the return fuel pressure
The system should always be treated as pressurised, even when the engine is
switched off.
Warning!
!
Wear protective gloves and goggles.
IMPORTANT!
The fuel system is very sensitive to dirt. It is therefore very important that everything is as clean as possible when
work is carried out on the fuel system.
Do not use compressed air to blow components in the fuel system clean.
When cleaning, cloths or paper which shed fibres must not be used. Use lint-free cloths.
Do not use worn chrome-plated tools as flakes of chrome may come off.
IMPORTANT!
A high pressure pipe that has been detached or removed must never be refitted but
must be replaced with a new one.
Tightening torques
Note:
The high pressure pipe must not be reused.
8 Remove the fuel return pipe (3) and plug the fuel manifold. Detach the pipes (4 and 5) from the cylinder head.
9 Undo the cylinder head bolts alternately. Remove the cylinder head and gasket.
10 Remove the protection plugs on the new cylinder head. Fit new springs, a new gasket and new bolts.
11 Clean the pump surface that faces against the cylinder head. Check that the guide pins under the roller
tappets are straight and that the roller tappets are correctly positioned so that they go down completely
in their seats; see illustration. Screw the cylinder head bolts in alternately. Tightening torque 68 Nm.
12 Fit the pipes (3, 4 and 5). Use new washers. Tightening torque for the banjo unions - 55 Nm.
01:00-01
Issue 1 en
program 96
Trouble-shooting
schedule
Industrial and Marine engines
1 588 534
© Scania CV AB 1997-09
White smoke
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
- If possible: reduce
engine speed or put the
The white smoke starts engine under load
Incompletely burnt to turn blue and disap- - Install a white smoke
Cold engine
fuel pears when the engine is limiting device
warmed up (exhaust brake)
- Install flame heater
- Install an engine heater
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 3
Injection timing too late
Inlet valve does not open
properly. Valve adjust-
ment disturbed
Disconnect one delivery pipe at a time and listen
Too much fuel in for changes in the engine sound.
relation to air at low
combustion temper- Broken delivery valve
atures spring, uncontrolled
! WARNING!
4 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
“Adjusted” injection
Check the lead seal - Test in test bench
pump, attempt to boost
Injection timing too late
Inlet valve does not open
properly. Valve adjust-
ment disturbed
Disconnect one delivery pipe at a time and listen
for changes in the engine sound.
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 5
Black smoke on starting
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Open the cover (RQ/
RQV) or hexagon (RSV)
on the governor and
check with a finger on
the control rod that it - Take the pump to a
Engine difficult to
Binding control rack goes to the maximum Bosch workshop for
start
stop bracket. repair
(This applies to engines
without a smoke limiter
on the governor hous-
ing.)
Blue smoke
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Oil coating past piston
rings
Check for oil in the
Oil leakage in turbo-
intake manifold after the
charger
turbocharger
Damaged piston cooling - Change damaged
nozzles nozzles
Petrol in diesel oil
6 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Fuel in oil, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Check “blow-by” in crankcase
Correct value for new engine: 0 - +10 mm wc
Dilution of oil in Worn engine
(flow rate 60 - 100 l/min.)
sump Closed crankcase ventilation: -50 - +20 mm wc
Intake valve not opening
Oil in coolant
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Test pressurize the oil cooler
Oil cooler leaks when Note: classed oil cooler, test pressurized: 10 bar oil
engine is running on the oil side, 0.5 bar air on the water side,
immersed in water 25 - 27 ° C
Defective cylinder head
gasket
Crack in cylinder head
(not cracks between If the fault is hard to trace:
valve seats). Change all cylinder heads for exchange cylinder
(On 11-series engines: heads.
look for cracks between (Or test pressurize all cylinder heads. Heat the cyl-
the water jacket and oil inder heads before pressurizing them.)
duct.)
Coolant/water in oil
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Oil cooler leaks when Test pressurize the oil
engine is not running cooler, see above
Leaky O-rings at cylin-
Leakage in telltale hole? - Change liner seals
der liner
water is condensed in
Dilution of oil in crankcase ventilation
sump and runs down into the
sump
14-series engine:
Clogged drain hole in
coolant pump in combi-
nation with leaking
pump seal
Cont.
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 7
Coolant/water in oil, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Crack in cylinder head Run the engine until
warm.
Crack in water jacket on Remove the oil sump
cylinder block/cylinder and all side covers.
head. (Coolant runs Test pressurize the cool- - Change the cylinder
down through the push- ing system. head for a exchange
rod hole.) If coolant seeps out cylinder head
behind side covers or at - If no leakage can be
the camshaft bearing found, change all cylin-
Crack in water jacket on there is probably a crack der heads for exchange
cylinder head. (Coolant in one of the cylinder cylinder heads
runs down via the oil heads.
duct for rocker arm As a rule it is possible to
Dilution of oil in lubrication.) see which cylinder head
sump or heads are leaking.
Cracked water-cooled
exhaust manifold
Leakage in charge air Test pressure (air
cooler core 0.5 bar, liquid 4 bar)
- Install a self-closing
cover on the exhaust
Water enters via the pipe
exhaust/intake system - Position the air cleaner
so that water cannot
run into it
8 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Low oil pressure, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Crankshaft bearing/main - Change to bearings of
bearing of wrong size Max. oil pressure 2 bar the correct size. Check
has been fitted on also when engine cold the bearing seats before
reground crankshaft assembly
Excessive play in big-
end and main bearings
If the bushing slides all
the way out of the bear-
ing seat, the oil pressure
Seizing in camshaft warning lamp will come
bearings on.
The engine throws out
oil through the crank-
case ventilation
Piston cooling nozzle
has come loose
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 9
Low oil pressure, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Loosened guide plates in
the oil cooler prevent
passage of the oil
Worn/damaged oil pump
Plug in cylinder block
under the relief valve
Gauge shows low has come loose (11-
pressure series engine)
Clogged oil cooler
Seized/worn bearings in Pressure varies when
compressed air compres- compressor charges/
sor, see also page 30 relieves
Loose screws in timing
gear’s intermediate gear
The main oil duct (to
Gauge indicates low piston cooling nozzles) Oil pressure at idling/
pressure at maxi- plug in the rear of the low engine speed is not
mum speed but not engine has come loose affected since the deliv-
at idling speed (also at front of engine, ery valve closes at 3 bar
9-series engine)
Oil valve sleeve screwed
- Tighten the oil valve
No oil pressure at out of oil pump housing Check that the oil
sleeve
idling speed (gives “by-pass” and valve sleeve is correctly
- If damaged, change the
(14-series engine) disables the overflow fitted
sleeve
valve)
10 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
High oil pressure (engine warmed up), cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
- 1 shim = 0.2 bar
Incorrectly adjusted oil
(screw adjustment on
relief valve
14-series engines)
Piston in oil relief valve
Gauge indicates
jammed in closed posi-
high pressure
tion
Valve in oil duct to pis-
ton cooling nozzles is
binding
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 11
Vibration, no driven components engaged
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Wrong injection timing
Broken delivery valve Disconnect one delivery pipe at a time and listen
spring for changes in the engine sound.
! WARNING!
Individual injectors not Be careful when disconnecting the delivery
operating pipes as the pressure is extremely high and
could cause injury
Fan imbalance
Flywheel has come
loose
Crankshaft hub loosened
Abnormally worn main
bearings
Vibration or unusual
noise at
1500 - 1700 r/min Defective vibration
damper
Drive belts run off
pulleys
Compressor operates
Only when com-
with excessive counter-
pressed air compres-
pressure (e.g. clogged
sor is charging, worst
piping/air dryer) or
at about 1000 r/min,
excessively high safety
see also page 30
valve opening pressure
Alignment fault Check engine alignment
Unsuitable rubber sus- - Change to rubber ele-
pension and location of ments of different
same hardness
Movement at engine - Reinforce the engine
Weak engine bed
attachment points bed
12 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Vibration when the clutch or reverse gear is engaged
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Imbalance in driven unit - Balance the unit
Imbalance in clutch
Inadequate alignment
- Carry out alignment
between engine and Check alignment
more accurately
driven unit
Unsuitable suspension
of engine or driven unit
Movement at attachment - Reinforce the engine
Weak engine bed
points bed
Defective flexible - Change rubber ele-
coupling between ment in flexible cou-
clutch/reverse gear and pling (consumption
driven unit item)
Unsuitably mounted - Reposition the engine
propeller shaft, e.g. or driven unit so that
excessive deflection the propeller shaft’s
angle or excessive devi- working range is in
ation in parallelism accordance with rec-
between flanges ommendations
Propeller shaft too long
and weak
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 13
Engine speed hunting - single-speed engines with RQ governor
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Play in flexible cou-
Apply a light load, at a - Change the rubber ele-
pling between engine
load of about 20 kW the ment/check the cou-
and alternator (worn
hunting disappears pling hub and flange
coupling)
- Choose a coupling
without play, e.g.
Play in new coupling
Scania standard cou-
pling
Not enough flywheel
- Mount extra flywheel
mass in the driven unit,
mass
e.g. alternator
14 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Governor incorrectly - Tighten the idling
adjusted spring and adjust
engine speed
Engine speed hunt-
ing at idling Below 700 r/min the - Fit a weaker starter
standard starter spring, spring, part number
282 544 (Bosch 1 424 268 866
650 006) is too strong (Bosch 1 424 650 056)
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 15
Delivery pipe fractures
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
No clamping
Carelessly handled
delivery pipe
Internal cavitation in
Fit 0-hole delivery
delivery pipe
valves for single-speed
Note: Single-pipe sys-
operation
tem is not permitted
16 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Engine difficult to start, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Blocked intake or
exhaust system
No fuel
Stop lever in stop posi- - Check the stop
tion solenoid and links
Wrong injection timing
Faulty injector
Open the cover (RQ/
RQV) or hexagon (RSV)
on the governor and
Control rack/pump ele- check with a finger on
ment will not go into the the control rod that it - Take the pump to a
cold start position. goes to the maximum Bosch workshop for
Binding control rack/ stop bracket. repair
pump element (This applies to engines
without smoke limiter
on the governor hous-
ing.)
- Preheat the engine
combustion chambers
by running the starter
motor with the stop
control in stop position
for about 15 seconds.
Then start in the usual
way.
Fluid stroke
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Test pressure (air
Leaky charge air cooler
0.5 bar, liquid 4 bar)
Starter motor not Leaky cylinder head
powerful enough to gasket
pull the piston over
the compression If the fault is hard to trace:
stroke (if the engine Change all cylinder heads for exchange cylinder
fires a connecting Crack in cylinder head heads.
rod could be bent) (Or test pressurize all cylinder heads. Heat the cyl-
inder heads before pressurizing them.)
Crack in cylinder liner
Cont.
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 17
Fluid stroke
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
- Install a self-closing
cover on the exhaust
Starter motor not Water has entered the
pipe
powerful enough to engine via the exhaust/
- Position the air cleaner
pull the piston over intake system
so that water cannot
the compression run into it
stroke (if the engine
fires a connecting Crack in water-cooled
rod could be bent) exhaust manifold
Injector open
Knocking/noise
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Timing gears incor-
rectly meshed
Exhaust valves close Check the valve timing,
The crankshaft gear has
too late and strike see “Service data,
come loose
the piston crowns engines”
Valve mechanism not
operating
Disturbances in the sup-
Rapidly increasing
ply of lubricant for the
valve clearances
rocker arms
Loosened big end cap - Tighten to the torque
The piston strikes
(wrong tightening torque specified in the Work-
the cylinder head
after repair) shop manual
Foreign objects in the
piston crown
Cont.
18 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Knocking/noise, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Piston seizure (may be
caused by clogged pis-
ton cooling nozzles)
Wrong injection timing
Worn collets on exhaust
valves
Incorrectly adjusted Disconnect one delivery pipe at a time and listen
injection pump for changes in the engine sound.
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 19
High oil consumption
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Piston ring seizure
Combustion tempera-
Piston seizure
ture too high?
Cylinder seizure
Liner wear Unclean intake air?
Carbon polishing
(in patches)
Poor grade of oil?
Piston ring wear
Piston rings stuck
Tapered piston rings fit-
ted wrong way
Individual piston rings broken = incorrectly fitted
Several upper rings broken = start spray used
Broken piston rings wrongly, wrong injection timing (too early)
Several intermediate rings broken = worn rings or
grooves
Check the clearance
between valve and
Blue smoke under guide.
load Worn valve guides
High exhaust tempera-
ture?
Poor grade of oil?
Oil level too high?
Check whether oil is
Defective shaft seals in
present in the compres-
turbocharger
sor or intake manifold
Clogged air filter
Excessive vacuum in the Measure the vacuum
air intake before the tur- (max. 500 mm wc)
bocharger Check the air filter
Oil viscosity too low
Deformed/incorrectly
directed piston cooling
nozzles
External leakage
Leakage in seawater-
cooled oil cooler (11-
series marine engines)
20 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
High fuel consumption
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Faulty injector
Low charge air pressure
Check in a pump test
bench that the amount
Adjusted injection pump
(Q-mm3/stroke) corre-
sponds to specification
Manner of driving, oper-
ating/load conditions
Low compression
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Worn engine Check the compression
Broken piston rings
Incorrectly adjusted/
defective valves
Hydrostatic lock/bent
connecting rod
Take compression readings on a hot engine, with
all injectors removed, at starter motor speed
Readings not taken cor- Check cylinders 1 - 6, then cylinder 1 again
rectly Check that starter motor speed does not drop
Correct reading: 20 - 30 bar
Max. 3 bar difference between cylinders
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 21
Low engine output, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Incorrect fuel specifica- Check density and vis-
tion cosity
Low charge air pressure Check charge air pressure
22 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Hot engine
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 23
Hot engine, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Circulation of cooling Check by taking temper-
air ature readings
Cavitation damaged
impeller in coolant
pump
Leakage in charge air
cooler
Cold engine
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Check that sensor and instrument match each other
Defective sensor/instru-
(120 and 150 ° C)
ment
Check with a separate instrument
Thermostat jammed in Check operation of ther-
open position mostat
- Fit a thermostat fan
Instrument indi- - Fit a smaller fan
Low power output at
cates low tempera- - Install a KLAFFO radiator shutter
low ambient temperature
ture NOTE: NOT A RADIATOR BLIND
(large external cooling
Risk of fan blade breakage
surface)
- Reduce the air flow
- Reduce fan/coolant pump gear ratio
Large leakage flow in
thermostat housing
(9- and 11-series marine
engines)
Coolant loss
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Defective cylinder head
gasket (external leakage)
External leakage
Turbocharging pressure
Coolant pressed out
enters cooling system Test pressure
of radiator on DSI
via leaking charge air (air 0.5 bar, liquid 4 bar)
engines
element
Cont.
24 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Coolant loss, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
If the fault is hard to trace:
Crack in cylinder head Change all cylinder heads for exchange cylinder
(not cracks between heads.
White smoke when valve seats) (Or test pressurize all cylinder heads. Heat the cyl-
engine hot indicates inder heads before pressurizing them.)
water vapour Grey oil = Coolant in oil
Locate the leak by removing the oil sump and pres-
Cracked cylinder liner
surizing the cooling system while turning the
engine over by hand
Polluted coolant
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Faulty inhibitor - Clean the cooling sys-
tem and fill it with
Overdosed corrosion coolant as described in
inhibitor the maintenance
instructions
Engine heater
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Incorrect mixture or type
- Clean the cooling sys-
of glycol and/or corro-
tem and fill it with
Boiler scale on sion inhibitor
coolant as described in
engine heater Anti-freeze with phos-
the maintenance
phate-based inhibitor
instructions
must not be used
The heater is not
designed for continuous
Short service life engagement. Suitable
temperature for thermo-
stat control = 40 - 60 ° C
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 25
High exhaust temperature
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Check the lead seal,
Adjusted injection pump - Test in test bench
check CRO if necessary
Check the injection tim-
Wrong injection timing
ing
Check type, opening
Nozzle drips pressure and general
condition
Take a reading, recommended counterpressure:
High exhaust counter- 500 mm wc, max. 1000 mm wc
pressure Check silencer, spark arrester, length and inside
diameter of exhaust pipe
High inlet air tempera-
ture
Low charge air pressure
Clogged air filter
26 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Low fuel pressure
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Clogged fuel filter
Defective overflow
valve
Defective feed pump
Air leakage in suction
pipe
High pressure drop in
suction pipe
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 27
External oil leakage, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Leaky crankshaft seal
Leakage at liner seal via
overflow hole in cylin-
der block
Defective cylinder head
gasket
Leakage in manifold
Low load
joint
28 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
External coolant leakage, cont.
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Check that the self-vent-
Loss of coolant in ing valve is not situated
stationary installa- Coolant pressed out of higher than the highest - Change the valve or fit
tions with self-vent- expansion tank coolant level and that air a manual air screw
ing valves is not drawn in through
the valve
Turbocharger breakdown
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Excessive bearing play
in turbocharger
Loss of power Lubrication piping
between turbocharger
- Check the connections
and filter incorrectly
connected
©
Scania CV AB 1997-09 29
Compressed air system
Effect Cause Trouble shooting Action
Too much carbon in
compressor cylinder Empty the compressed
head or discharge air tank, retain the air in
piping connected compressed
air components. - If charging time
Exhaust valves leak Run the engine at exceeds specified val-
Compressor does Worn pistons and cylin- 1200
time
r/min and note the
it takes for the com- ues:
not maintain suffi- ders pressor to discharge: - Rectify leakage, if any
cient pressure in the 3 - 3.5 min. for 9/11- - Check/rectify pressure
system Leaking/jammed intake series engines with regulator
valves - Check/rectify compres-
90-110 dm3 tank capac- sor
Defective pressure regu- ity
lator 2.5 - 3 min. for 14-series
engine with 90-110 dm3
Leakage in compressed tank capacity
air piping
Too much carbon in
compressor cylinder
head or discharge piping
Check/rectify compres-
Worn big end/main sor as described in the
bearings Workshop Manual
Noise Worn pistons and cylin-
ders
Compressor gear loose
on shaft, see also
“Knocking/noise”,
page “Knocking/noise”
on page 18
Worn pistons and cylin-
Compressor allows ders
passage of oil, see
also “High oil con- Piston rings fitted
sumption”, page wrongly
“High oil consump-
tion” on page 20 Overpressure in engine
crankcase.
Defective seals on dis-
charge pistons
Compressor does Discharge mechanism
not discharge binding
Defective pressure regu-
lator
Check operation of air
Moisture/oil in com- Air dryer not working dryer, change desiccant.
pressed air system properly If desiccant is oily, see
“Compressor allows
passage of oil” above
30 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Suggestions and views?
One of the objectives of the trouble shooting schedule is that it should be continuously updated and
the best source of updating is where the schedule is actually used.
If you have any suggestions for improvements and additions to the trouble shooting schedule, please
copy this page and write down your comments on it. Then send it by fax or mail to the address
below.
Your comments are the help we need to improve future issues.
Thank you in advance for your cooperation.
From:
Proposal/Remarks:
34 ©
Scania CV AB 1997-09
Ch 1 page 204 Engine
Note