TEXTILE FIBRES

Definition of Textile Fibre:

A textile fibre is a strand of material that is used to make textiles. Textile fibres are the basic raw
materials used to produce textiles. They are long, thin strands that can be spun or extruded into
yarns or threads and then woven, knitted, or pressed into fabrics. Textile fibres can be natural or
synthetic, and each type of fibre has unique properties that determine its suitability for different
types of textiles. In this article I will discuss classification of textile fibres.

Classification of Textile Fibres:

Textile fibres classification means to the categorization of fibres based on their origin, chemical
composition, and physical properties. The classification of textile fibres can be done in a number
of ways.

Textile fibres can be classified into two main categories: natural fibres and synthetic fibres.

Natural fibres:
Natural fibres are fibres that are obtained from plants, animals, and minerals. Examples of
natural fibres include cotton, wool, silk, flax, hemp, jute, and ramie. These fibres are used to
make a wide range of products, including textiles, paper, and building materials. They are also
used in the production of bioplastics and biocomposites. Natural fibres are renewable,
biodegradable and are considered as an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic fibres.
Natural fibres can be classified into several categories based on their origin and properties. Some
common classifications of natural fibers include:

1. Plant fibres: These fibres are obtained from plants, such as cotton, linen, hemp, and jute.
2. Animal fibres: These fibres are obtained from animals, such as wool, silk, cashmere, and
alpaca.
3. Cellulosic fibres: These fibres are derived from plant cell walls, such as cotton, linen, and
hemp.
4. Protein fibres: These fibres are derived from animal hair or secretions, such as wool, silk,
and cashmere.
5. Bast fibres: These fibres are obtained from the stem of certain plants, such as flax, hemp,
and jute.
6. Leaf fibres: These fibres are obtained from leaves of certain plants, such as sisal and
abaca.
7. Seed fibres: These fibres are obtained from seeds, such as cotton and kapok.

Some fibres may fit into more than one classification. For example, cotton is a plant fibre and a
cellulosic fibre.

Man-made fibres:
Man-made fibers, also known as synthetic fibres are fibres that are artificially created from
chemical compounds. These fibres are not naturally occurring and are typically manufactured
from petroleum-based products. Examples of synthetic fibres include polyester, nylon, acrylic,
and spandex. These fibres are often used to make a wide range of products, including clothing,
upholstery, and industrial materials. Synthetic fibres are known for their durability, strength, and
resistance to shrinking and wrinkling, which makes them popular for use in clothing and other
textiles. They are also less expensive to produce than natural fibres, which makes them more
cost-effective for many applications. However, they are not biodegradable and also require a
significant amount of energy to produce which makes them environmentally unfriendly.

Synthetic fibres can be classified based on their chemical composition and manufacturing
process. Some common classifications include:

1. Polymer fibres: These fibres are created by polymerization of synthetic monomers, such
as polyester, nylon, and acrylic.
2. Glass fibres: These fibres are made from glass and are known for their high strength and
low thermal expansion.
3. Carbon fibres: These fibres are made from carbon and are known for their high strength,
low weight and thermal stability.
4. Metal fibres: These fibres are made from metal, such as stainless steel and are known for
their high strength and thermal stability.
5. Aromatic polyamide fibres: These fibres are made from aromatic polyamides and are
known for their high strength, thermal stability, and chemical resistance.
6. Viscose rayon fibres: These fibres are made from cellulose and are known for their
softness, drapability and ability to absorb moisture.
 7. Acetate fibres: These fibres are made from cellulose acetate and are known for their
softness, drapability and luster.
8. Modal fibres: These fibres are made from beech tree pulp and are known for their
softness, drapability and moisture-wicking properties.

Blended fibres:
There are also blended fibres. Blended fibres are fibres that are made by combining two or more
different types of fibres together. The resulting blend can have properties that are different from
those of the individual fibres. Blending fibres can be done to improve the performance of a
fabric, to create new textures, or to reduce costs. Some common examples of blended fibres
include cotton-polyester, wool-nylon, and silk-rayon. The blend ratio can vary depending on the
desired properties, for example, a blend of polyester and cotton is used to make a fabric that is
wrinkle-resistant and durable, but also soft and breathable. Blended fibres are a good
compromise between natural and synthetic fibres, as they can take advantage of the positive
characteristics of each fiber, while also reducing their negative characteristics.

Classification of textile fibre based on origin:

Textile fibres can be classified based on their origin. The main categories are:

 Cellulosic fibres: These fibres are obtained from plants and are composed of cellulose.
Examples include cotton, linen, ramie, hemp, and bamboo.
 Protein fibres: These fibres are obtained from animals and are composed of protein.
Examples include wool, silk, mohair, and alpaca.
 Synthetic fibres: These fibres are man-made and are composed of synthetic materials.
Examples include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polypropylene.
 Mineral fibres: These fibres are obtained from rocks and minerals. Examples include
glass and asbestos.

In addition, fibres can also be classified by their physical and chemical properties, such as staple
fibres, filament fibres, and cellulosic fibres.

Staple fibres are short fibres that are typically spun into yarns, while filament fibres are long,
continuous fibres that can be made into fabrics without spinning. Cellulosic fibres are fibres
derived from plants, such as cotton, linen, and hemp.

Regenerated cellulose fibres:

Regenerated cellulose fibres, also known as viscose fibres, are a type of man-made or semi-
synthetic fibres that are derived from cellulose, which is a naturally-occurring polymer found in
plants. These fibres can be classified into a few different categories based on the manufacturing
process and properties.

1. Viscose rayon fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving wood pulp or cotton linters in
a solution of sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, and then extruding the solution
through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their softness, drapability, and
ability to absorb moisture.
 2. Cuprammonium rayon fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving wood pulp or cotton
linters in a solution of copper salts and ammonium hydroxide, and then extruding the
solution through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their high strength and
resistance to shrinking and wrinkling.
3. Modal fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving beech tree pulp in a solution of
sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, and then extruding the solution through a
spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their softness, drapability, and moisture-
wicking properties.
4. Lyocell fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving wood pulp in a solution of amine
oxide, and then extruding the solution through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known
for their high strength, excellent drapability, and moisture-wicking properties.

These fibres are considered semi-synthetic fibres because they are derived from natural raw
materials but are chemically processed to create the fibres.

Organic fibres:
Organic fibres refer to fibres that are grown and processed using methods that do not involve
synthetic chemicals, pesticides, or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). These fibres are
grown and processed according to strict guidelines and standards set by organizations such as the
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI).

Some common types of organic fibres include:

1. Organic cotton: Organic cotton is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or
fertilizers. It is considered a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to conventional
cotton.
2. Organic wool: This is wool that is obtained from sheep that are raised according to
organic standards, which prohibit the use of synthetic chemicals and pesticides.
3. Organic linen: This is linen that is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or
fertilizers.
4. Organic hemp: This is hemp that is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or
fertilizers.
5. Organic silk: This is silk that is obtained from silkworms that are raised without the use
of synthetic pesticides or antibiotics.

Organic fibres are considered environmentally friendly because they are grown without the use
of synthetic chemicals and pesticides, which can have negative impacts on the environment and
human health. They also promote sustainable agriculture and are often grown using traditional
farming methods.

Inorganic fibres:
Inorganic fibres are fibres that are not derived from living organisms and are not biodegradable.
They are typically created by chemical or physical processes, and do not come from natural
sources like plants or animals.

Some examples of inorganic fibres include:

 1. Glass fibres: These fibres are made from silica, which is melted and then extruded
through small holes to form fibres. They are known for their high strength and low
thermal expansion.
2. Carbon fibres: These fibres are made from carbon and are known for their high strength,
low weight, and thermal stability. They are used in aerospace, automotive, and other
high-performance applications.
3. Metal fibres: These fibres are made from metal, such as stainless steel, and are known for
their high strength and thermal stability. They are used in industrial and technical
applications.
4. Ceramic fibres: These fibres are made from ceramic materials such as alumina and
silicon carbide. They are known for their high strength, thermal stability, and chemical
resistance.

Importance of Fibre Classification:

Textile fibre classification plays a critical role in the textile industry and helps to ensure that
textile products meet the desired performance, safety, and environmental standards.

Fibre classification is important for several reasons:

1. Product Development: Knowing the properties and characteristics of different fibres helps
textile manufacturers and designers to choose the appropriate fibre for a specific product or
application. This can help ensure that the final product meets the desired performance, aesthetic,
and cost criteria.

2. Quality Control: Fibre classification can be used to identify and control the quality of textile
products. For example, if a product is labeled as being made of 100% cotton, a fibre
classification test can be used to confirm that it is indeed made of cotton and not a blend of
cotton and other fibres.

3. Environmental and Health Considerations: Fibre classification can help consumers and
manufacturers make informed choices about the environmental and health impact of textile
products. For example, organic fibres are grown and processed without the use of synthetic
chemicals, pesticides, or GMOs, which can be harmful to the environment and human health.

4. Legal Compliance: Fibre classification can be used to ensure that textile products comply
with legal regulations, such as labeling requirements and trade restrictions.

5. Recycling and Repurposing: Fibre classification can be used to identify and sort textile
waste for recycling and repurposing. For example, natural fibres like cotton and wool can be
recycled into new textile products, while synthetic fibres like polyester are typically not
recyclable.
Eco friendly fibres do not require the use of any pesticides or chemicals to grow. They are naturally
resistant to mould and mildew and are the disease free. hemp, linen, bamboo, ramie are the eco
friendly fibres.

Various types of eco friendly fibres can be shown by this chart:

1) Hemp: This fibre has many excellent properties being environmentally positive with no need of
pesticides and insecticides; it actually improves the soil where it is grown. It is drought resistant and can
be grown in most climates.

2) Jute: It is a fibre with high biological efficiency as it is carbon dioxide neutral and easily disposable. it
can be easily used as a raw material for a variety of products

3) Organic cotton: It is grown without using pesticides and insecticides in a more sustainable conditions
that enhance the quality of soil.

4) Ramie: Ramie/China grass is about 8times stronger than cotton and even. It is naturally resistant to
bacteria mould and mildew as well as light damage or insect attack. it does not require pesticides and
herbicides to grow healthier, stronger when wet. it is grown organically in eastern Asia.
5) Corn fibre: Corn fibre are bio degradable. it has good fastness with all classes of dyes. the energy
required for production of corn fibres was low. it is completely biodegradable, composostable, burnable
and recyclable

6) Pineapple fibres: One of the eco- friendly fibers gaining fast popularity is the pineapple fiber, the pina
fiber. It is extracted from the pineapple leaves by hand scraping, decortications or retting. Decortications
use a motorized machine with blades to scrape off the pulp in order to separate the fiber. In retting, the
leaves are immersed in water for softening the plant gums. They are then dried in the open air, the
fibers are waxed to remove any entanglements and then they are knotted and bind into yarns for
weaving into fabric.

The fibers are hand spun into ivory-white colored and naturally glossy fabric. Pineapple fabric is
lightweight, soft, shinning, transparent and a little stiff fabric used for making clothes having elegant
looks.

7) Banana fibres: The banana fibres are extracted by hand stripping and decortications. so it is 100% eco
friendly fibre. It is strong, shiny, light weight and bio degradable. It can be even absorb moisture very
efficiently. Banana fibers were used for making ropes and mats till recent past. With its many qualities
getting popular, the fashion industry is also fast adopting this fiber for making various fashion clothing
and home furnishings.

8) Soy silk: Soy silk is made of waste that accumulates during manufacturing of tofu hence requires no
special harvesting as such. It is also soft and luxurious

9) Organic linen: It is refers to yarn and fabric made from flax plant that is organically grown without
using any fertilizers and chemicals.

10) Milk silk: It is a very soft fibre with a velvety texture and is derived from milk hence easily obtainable
without causing any hazards to ecology.

11) Bamboo: it is obtained from pulp of bamboo plants. it is regenerated cellulose fibre.it is eco friendly
only when it is extracted with mechanical process. organic bamboo left unbleached by the manufactures
It's chemical processing is not environmental friendly. When mechanically processed, the crushed
bamboo is treated with biological enzymes which break it into a mushy mass after which individual
fibers are combed out. Organic bamboo fabric is left unbleached by the manufacturers. Bamboo fibers
make smooth, soft, antibacterial and luxurious fabric that have a very good absorption quality.

12) Tencel: Tencel is a fibre’s brand name for lyocell.it is made with wood pulp cellulose from the
eucalyptus tree; it uses a non toxic solvent during its production process. It uses much less water than
the production of non organic cotton. which uses 100 times more water to produce.

Why should we choose Organic or Eco Friendly fibres?

 Social responsibility: Chemicals and pesticides invade drinking water and groundwater, polluting its
fish and even reaching human consumption. Organic and eco fibers grow without any pesticides or
chemical fertilizers.

 Biodegradable: Eco and organic fabric biodegrade naturally over time. Synthetic fibers eventually
become waste and let off harmful toxins when they degrade.

 Health: Many people are allergic or dislike wearing synthetic textiles. Eco fabrics have all the
properties of the new synthetic breathable fibers with added softness and drape. They feel better
against the skin.

 Absorption: Not only do its chemicals reach into the groundwater, conventional clothing is worn next
to the most porous organskin. Organic and eco fibers are natural and do not contain irritating chemicals.
Many of them are also considered hypoallergenic and naturally antibacterial. opularity: Organic foods
have been around for awhile and it is a natural evolution that organic and eco friendly fabrics will also
gain popularity. Eco and Organic fabrics once considered an alternative are now entering into the

mainstream.

Use of Eco Textiles Fibers – Related Industries

 Fashion and Apparel Industry

 Home Furnishing and Textile Industry

 Hygiene and Health Care Industry

 Packaging Industry – “Eco Packaging” an Important Feature

 Growing Recycling Industry- Generating Rural Employments

 Medical Textiles Industry – Growing Opportunity

Factors that develops the need of eco freindly fibre

Many of the clothes we wear today are made from synthetic materials such as NYLON & POLYESTER.
Nylon and polyester are made from petrochemicals, which are very polluting to the environment,
causing global warming. They are also non-biodegradable, which means they don’t break down easily
and so are difficult to dispose of. In order to manufacture nylon, nitrous oxide is released as part of the

process. Nitrous oxide is a greenhouse gas that is 310 times stronger than carbon dioxide and causes
global warming. VISCOSE is another artificial fibre, made from wood pulp. To make viscose, wood pulp is
treated with toxic chemicals such as caustic soda and sulphuric acid. Natural fibres have their problems,
too. NON ORGANIC COTTON uses more pesticide per cotton plant than almost any other crop in the
world. This has serious impacts, causing illness and even death amongst cotton farmers who are
exposed to dangerous pesticides every day. These pesticides also affect local eco-systems, killing certain
plants and animals and causing an imbalance. “While organic farming is more difficult, it saves lives from

not using pesticides. We no longer have debt problems. Income is all profit at the end of season. Land
and soil are preserved.” – Farmer Gera Paul, Benin

Hazardous chemicals are also used on wool – for example in sheep dips, where they have been linked
with illness amongst sheep farmers.

CERTAIN DYES are thought to cause cancer. In many parts of the world, garments are dyed or bleached
using toxic chemicals without proper precautions; the chemicals used can then affect workers and flow
into sewers and rivers, damaging local ecosystems. Virtually all POLLYCOTTON (especially bedlinen),
plus all ‘easy care’, ‘crease resistant’, ‘permanent press’ cotton, are treated with the toxic chemical,
form due to enormous impact of textile industry on environment there is a need to develop eco friendly
fibres