Jewelry Essentials
Jewelry Essentials
Jewelry Essentials
Essentials
2. Selling Rings
6/2019
Jewelry Essentials
Cover photos
• Demonstrate basic knowledge about the workings and operation of a
(top to bottom): timepiece and identify the watch types found at different market levels
Alexandra Hart/
Ralph Gabriner • Advise customers about the care and cleaning of their jewelry purchases
Maha Tannous/GIA
Public Domain • Use product knowledge along with features and benefits to sell jewelry
Robert Weldon/GIA
ethically with full disclosure
Valerie Power/GIA
iStockphoto
Jewelry and Jewelry Sales 1
Jewelry Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Features and Benefits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Precious Metals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Precious Metal Characteristics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Workability, Durability, and Metal Memory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Fineness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Gold Alloys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Platinum and Palladium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Silver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Alternative Jewelry Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Alternative Metals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Manufacturing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Jewelry Categories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Jewelry Manufacturing Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Hand Fabrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Lost-Wax Casting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Die Striking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Electroforming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Machining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
1
Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 1. With the knowledge you gain
from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Discuss the qualities of gold, platinum, and silver that make them desirable
for jewelry use.
• Recognize international precious metal regulations and use of quality
marks.
• Explain the main jewelry manufacturing methods.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Eric Welch/GIA
A store window displays a wealth of precious jewelry. This course will help you navigate
your clients successfully through the many choices the world of jewelry provides.
3
Jewelry Essentials
“Sounds like fun. What do you have your eye on?” asks Mr. Flynn.
“A gold chain like the ones in the window,” Darlene replies.
“Those are real gold,” he says. “Can your birthday money cover that?”
“Sure,” Darlene replies. “My grandparents and my mom and dad all gave
me money. They said I can spend it any way I want, so here I am.”
“Well, I’m happy to help,” Mr. Flynn says. “And I have plenty of gold
chains. Let’s take a look over here.” He comes out from behind the counter
and leads Darlene to a display case on his right. “If you show me the styles
you like, I’ll bring them out so you can try them on.”
After looking over the selection, she chooses a few of the chains to try on.
Mr. Flynn takes them out one at a time and watches as she drapes each
one around her neck. After trying on a few different chains and checking
her reflection in the mirror, Darlene nods and smiles.
“This one is just right,” she says. “I like it because it’s not too delicate and
not too clunky.” She fastens the chain around her neck again and swivels
slightly as she looks at it in the mirror.
“We learned about gold in science class. Is this pure gold?”
“It’s actually 14-karat gold,” Mr. Flynn replies. “That means 14 out of 24
parts are pure gold, and the rest is silver and copper. The other metals
make the gold stronger and harder, and reduce its cost.”
“It still looks like gold and shines like gold,” Darlene says. “And the price
is just right, too. I’ll take it. But don’t bother wrapping it. I want to wear
it right now!”
Mr. Flynn removes the price tag, rings up the sale, and wishes Darlene a
happy birthday. She thanks him and leaves the store wearing her new gold
chain, proud and beaming.
Jewelry Basics
n What two pieces of information should you know about the jewelry
you sell?
n What are the properties and uses of precious metals?
n What are some alternative jewelry materials?
Even before people began recording their own history, they were adorning
themselves with jewelry. When archeologists excavate humanity’s earliest
settlements, they often find jewelry items among the artifacts.
Shutterstock
Selling jewelry makes you part of some of the happiest and most exciting
moments in people’s lives. Jewelry’s beauty attracts attention and, like
Gifts of jewelry mark milestones in
peoples’ lives. As a jewelry sales
nice clothes, it feels good to wear. It also helps people express their
professional, you’re ideally positioned individuality. As a jewelry salesperson, you help people choose the
to help your customers choose the right jewelry that’s right for them. They benefit from your interaction because
jewelry to celebrate their special occasions. they leave your store with just the right piece.
This course contains the basic product information and sales techniques
you need to sell more jewelry and to advance in your chosen career. Each
assignment contains information you can put to use immediately, no
matter what your position in the jewelry industry.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Andy Lucas/GIA
Artisans from long-ago civilizations
prized precious metals for their unique
ability to be shaped into intricate
designs.
Vianna Joias
The bold colors of the gems in these
stylish rings complement the sleek
precious metal mountings.
Vianna Joias
The color, texture, and sparkle of gemstones and jewelry metals provide infinite
possible combinations that allow the wearer to express her individuality.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
WilsonValentin/iStockphoto
This diamond ring provides a unique
combination of rarity and lasting value.
The main diamond is large and beautifully
fashioned, giving it dazzling interaction
with light.
KEY
CONCEPTS
Vianna Joias
To sell jewelry, you must know its
This necklace features topaz gems in autumn colors that complement the delicate
features and be able to explain the yellow gold mounting as well as the wearer’s skin tone. The necklace’s design allows
importance of those features to your them to shimmer and sparkle as she moves.
customer.
Features and Benefits
Feature—A characteristic or part of a To sell jewelry, you must know its features and be able to explain their
piece of jewelry. importance to your customer. A feature is a characteristic or part of the
jewelry. What that feature does for the customer is called its benefit. A
Benefit—The value a feature holds for benefit can be aesthetic, psychological, or practical. Each feature has at
a customer. least one benefit.
Features can also work together to create a combination of benefits. For
example, most people know that jewelry-quality diamonds are rare.
They’re also so hard that they can be scratched only by other diamonds.
They also have their own unique, sparkling interaction with light. These
are some of diamonds’ features.
Diamond rarity’s corresponding benefit is shared by other luxury products:
It contributes to the gem’s financial value, which offers diamond wearers
prestige and status. Diamond’s hardness-related benefit is durability,
which allows diamonds to retain their beauty and value over time. Sparkle
catches the eye and makes diamonds aesthetically appealing.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Eric Welch/GIA
The bright reddish metal in these earrings is copper. Copper is
much less rare than gold and, unlike that metal, its shine will
dull with age.
Precious Metals
The metals most often used in jewelry—gold, platinum, and silver—are Precious metals—Metals valued in
called the precious metals, and they’re appealing whether they’re used jewelry, specifically gold, platinum,
alone or to complement the gems in a piece. (Palladium—a metal with and silver.
properties similar to platinum—is also considered by many to be a
precious metal.) Base metals—Non-precious metals
such as copper, zinc, tin, nickel, lead,
The physical properties of precious metals make them ideal for use in and iron.
jewelry and often distinguish them from non-precious metals, called base
metals, such as copper, zinc, tin, nickel, lead, and iron. Heft—The weight or heaviness of an
object compared to its size.
Precious Metal Characteristics
Luster—The appearance of a
Each precious metal has its own unique characteristics, but they share material’s surface in reflected light.
certain qualities that make them excellent jewelry metals. Those qualities
are allure, rarity, workability, and durability. Their allure comes from their
heft, color, and luster. Heft is what makes jewelry made of gold, silver, or
platinum feel heavy for its size and gives jewelry a sturdy and stable feel.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Al Clayton/PNI/Allstock
As anyone who pans for gold knows, it
takes hours—sometimes days—of labor
to coax a very small amount of gold from
its surroundings. The same is true of all
precious metal mining methods.
Jeffrey Scovil
Gold is one of the three precious metals used in jewelry. This naturally formed gold
nugget was found in Placer, California.
KEY
CONCEPTS
Precious metals’ allure, rarity, workability,
and durability make them excellent for
use in jewelry.
James L. Amos/Corbis
This shiny bar of platinum weighs only 50 grams. Behind it is a 50-ton pile representing
the amount of ore required to produce 50 grams of platinum.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Gold is a bright and sunny yellow. Platinum and silver are both considered
white metals by the trade, even though platinum’s rich gray-white looks
KEY
quite different from silver’s gleaming white. But both are neutral in color,
CONCEPTS
which means they can complement any gemstone. Precious metals are expensive because
After color, one of the things people admire most about precious metals is they’re rare and difficult to extract from
their luster, or the way they reflect light. Silver is especially dazzling. Polished the earth.
pure silver shines more brightly than any other metal on earth. More than
90 percent of the light that strikes it is reflected back to the observer’s eye.
Gold’s beautiful luster is what attracted people to it in the first place. It
creates a rich background for the sparkle of beautiful gems.
Platinum, too, glimmers alluringly in the light, a perfect complement to Patina—Soft, rich surface
diamonds, pearls, and colored stones. Polished platinum’s luster can appearance that develops with age.
change over time, becoming softer and richer and achieving a subtle,
enchanting glow called patina.
The beauty of a precious metal’s luster depends largely on how well it’s
polished. All other things being equal, the better the polish, the higher
the luster. You can see this in a highly polished gold wedding band that
glows like an ember.
Precious metals are expensive because they’re rare and difficult to extract
from the earth. Gold is the rarest. It makes up only about four parts per
billion of the earth’s crust. Platinum is less rare, at about five parts per
billion, and silver is next, at about 75 parts per billion. To put these
quantities in perspective, iron makes up about 5.6 percent—about six
parts per hundred—of the earth’s crust. Since iron is relatively common
and easy to extract, it’s inexpensive.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
GIA
Silver, like the ancient silver coins set in
this gold necklace, will slowly tarnish,
or discolor, when exposed to sulfur
compounds in the air.
Costantino Rota
Precious metals can be formed into intricate designs that are strong and retain their
shape. With care, this gold necklace might last many generations.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
If a metal has “metal memory,” it tends to return toward its previous shape.
Of the three precious metals, platinum has the least metal memory. Once
platinum is bent, it tends to stay in position. This lack of metal memory
means that platinum has superior holding power. Gold and silver have
more metal memory than platinum.
Fineness
Fineness is a measure of a precious metal’s purity, and it’s based on parts Fineness—A measure of the purity of
per thousand. A metal that rates 1,000 is described as fine, or pure. This a precious metal.
means it has virtually no impurities, and it’s not mixed with another metal.
If a precious metal is 75 percent pure, its fineness is 750. A precious metal Fine—Virtually free of impurities or
that’s stamped “950” is very nearly pure. alloying metals.
Technically, there’s no such thing as a fine precious metal. Every sample Alloy—A mixture of two or more
has at least some impurities or is deliberately blended with another metal metals.
or metals to form an alloy.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Valerie Power/GIA
This necklace gets its unique and striking
appearance from a blend of different
colored gold alloys.
Chimento
Each of these 18K gold bracelets is alloyed to give it a different color. The type and
quantity of alloying metals determine the color of the karat gold, causing the
bracelets to be rose, white, and yellow.
KEY
CONCEPTS
Alloying gold increases its tensile
strength and hardness and makes it
less expensive.
In the US, 14K is the most popular
GIA & Tino Hammid GIA & Tino Hammid jewelry gold alloy.
Gold articles made in the US usually have The 18K mark on this jewelry piece
a quality mark and the manufacturer’s means the same as the 750 designation.
trademark. The best protection against 18K means that 18 parts out of 24 in the
underkarating is to buy only gold jewelry alloy are gold. "Verdura" is the maker's
that’s stamped this way. trademark.
resists scratching and denting. Alloying can also lower gold’s melting Tensile strength—Maximum
point, which reduces its cost. These factors broaden gold’s appeal by stretching force a metal can
making it easier for jewelers to work with, increasing its durability, and withstand before breaking.
bringing it within reach of more buyers.
Hardness—How well a metal resists
In the US and most other countries, people use the term karat to state scratching and denting.
gold’s fineness, which is based on parts out of 24. This means that pure
gold is 24 parts gold—or 24-karat gold. Gold that’s 75 percent pure—18 Karat—A unit of measure for the
parts gold and six parts an alloying metal or metals—is 18-karat gold. fineness of gold, based on a total of
Fourteen-karat gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts another metal or metals. 24 parts, abbreviated “K.”
“K” is the abbreviation for karat, so you’ll often see gold jewelry stamped
14K or 18K.
Don’t confuse “karat” with the term “carat,” a measure of gem weight.
People in some countries spell both terms with a “c.”
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Verbal equivalent 10 parts gold, 14 parts gold, 18 parts gold, 24 parts gold
14 parts other 10 parts other 6 parts other
metals by metals by metals by
weight weigh weight
In the US, the most popular gold alloy used in jewelry is 14K. The alloy
always contains 58.5 percent gold, but the proportions of other metals—
usually silver and copper—vary. In other countries, 8K, 9K, 10K, 18K, and
22K to 24K gold are popular for jewelry.
Increasing the percentages of the other metals in gold alloys can result in
customized colors. Varying amounts of copper can give gold a rose or
even reddish color. Increasing the silver in a gold alloy can give it a green
color, and nickel and palladium can whiten it.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Valerie Power/GIA
Platinum prongs retain their strength
over time, making them ideal for holding
valuable gems like diamonds.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Silver
Silver’s bright, white shine and workability are its principal assets for
KEY jewelry use. Pure silver is too soft to be practical for jewelry, so it’s usually
CONCEPTS mixed with a small amount of copper. Copper hardens silver without
Silver’s bright, white shine and taking away its brilliant shine.
workability are its principal assets for Sterling silver is by far the most popular silver alloy in jewelry. It’s defined
use in jewelry. as being 925 parts silver and 75 parts copper. To be called “silver” in the
US, an alloy must be at least 92.5 percent silver.
Silver is about half as dense as either gold or platinum. What silver lacks in
heft, it makes up for in shine. Sulfur in air reacts with silver to form silver sulfide,
a common tarnish that can be removed with commercial silver polishes.
Electroplating—Using electricity to Silver gilt, also called vermeil, is a thin surface coating of gold on silver.
deposit a coating of precious metal, The original process used mercury, a highly toxic element. Modern
suspended in a solution, on another vermeil is created by electroplating, which uses electricity to activate the
metal. gilding process.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Alternative Metals
Many modern jewelry designs are made of alternative metals such as
tungsten, titanium, niobium, and stainless steel.
Tungsten is especially popular for rings. The metal is blended with carbon
and a bonding metal, usually cobalt, to form tungsten carbide. Because
it’s extremely hard, tungsten carbide takes and retains a high polish. It’s
dark gray and highly resistant to scratching. One ring maker promotes
tungsten carbide rings as being “permanently polished.”
Tungsten carbide is about 15 times denser than water. That makes it about
75 percent as dense as gold and platinum, and 50 percent denser than
silver. While tungsten carbide has good heft, it’s not easy to work, so its
jewelry uses are limited.
Jewelry makers sometimes use pure titanium or a titanium alloy. These
materials are lightweight but very strong. Titanium is only about half as
dense as silver, so it doesn’t have the heft of the precious metals. It’s silver-
gray in color and often polished or brushed.
Pure titanium is hypoallergenic, meaning it won’t cause allergic reactions
or skin discoloration. It’s often used for pierced earrings and other body
jewelry. It resists scratching about as well as 14K gold. Alloying titanium
with small amounts of aluminum and vanadium increases its durability
and scratch resistance.
Titanium is difficult if not impossible to work, so jewelry pieces must be
mechanically cut, shaped, and assembled. Because the pure metal is
difficult to extract and manufacturing is labor intensive, titanium jewelry
is priced in the same range as precious metal jewelry.
Niobium is popular with custom jewelry designers and manufacturers
because it’s easy to work with and to color. Niobium can’t be soldered—
it’s joined with rivets or tiny screws—but its workability is comparable to
silver’s. In fact, any item a jewelry maker can create with gold, silver, or
platinum, he or she can create with niobium.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Vianna Joias
This necklace features topaz gems in autumn colors that complement the delicate
yellow gold mounting as well as the wearer’s skin tone. The necklace’s design allows
them to shimmer and sparkle as she moves.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Regulations in the US
In the US, standards are established through a joint effort of government
and industry. The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is responsible for
interpreting and administering federal laws governing trade and encouraging
compliance with legally established fair trade practices.
Joel Beeson/GIA
With input from the jewelry trade, the FTC periodically issues guidelines This silver bracelet is marked with the
for conduct within the industry. The publication is known as Guides for the manufacturer’s trademark. The “sterling”
Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries. Government, consumers, stamp means it’s at least 92.5 percent
and industry organizations can sue manufacturers and retailers that pure silver.
violate the guidelines. The FTC designed them to evolve as new technologies
and practices emerge.
Trademark—A word, phrase, logo,
In the US, if a jewelry item is stamped with a quality mark, it must also symbol, or design that’s registered to
have a registered trademark to identify the manufacturer. In fact, the best identify the manufacturer of an item.
way for a jeweler to protect against underkarating fraud is to buy only
trademarked and quality-stamped jewelry. This won’t completely protect Underkarating—Misrepresenting the
a jeweler from legal action, but articles marked with registered trademarks precious metal content of a jewelry
are easily traced, so they’re less likely to be misrepresented. item.
KEY
CONCEPTS
In the US, a registered trademark must
accompany a quality mark.
The best way for a jeweler to protect
against underkarating fraud is to buy
only registered trademarked and quality
stamped gold jewelry.
In the US, the FTC administers federal fair trade practices. The full text of their Guides for
the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries can be found through the FTC’s
Web site at www.ftc.gov.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Regulations in Britain
Britain’s strict quality assurance requires that every article of gold, silver,
and platinum with a quality mark be assayed by one of four government-
controlled offices. The regulators recently added palladium to this list.
This means that the fineness mark on any precious metal article
manufactured in Britain, including palladium, is verifiable.
British assay offices have the final word on whether a precious metal object
meets the standard. Any British-made article that fails to meet the standard
at the time of assay is crushed and returned to the manufacturer. Imported
articles that fail the test are also returned to the importer or manufacturer.
British Hallmarking Council
Hallmarks are sometimes used to
Each precious metal article must be stamped with a hallmark that indicates
commemorate special events. This its purity and origin. A complete British hallmark includes:
British Silver Jubilee Mark was used in • A sponsor’s mark that identifies the manufacturer, or sponsor, of the
1977 to celebrate the 25th year of Queen item by using initials of the individual or firm responsible
Elizabeth II’s reign. It was an optional
stamp on silver articles that weighed 15 • A standard mark that certifies the precious metal content
grams or more. Because of their rarity,
• The fineness, stated as karatage or as parts per thousand
special hallmarks like this can increase the
value of the articles they are stamped on. • The location of the assay office responsible for certifying the article
• The date letter, which shows the year in which the article was
hallmarked (this became voluntary as of January 1, 1999)
Hallmark—A British stamp that
indicates the purity and origin of a The British hallmark for gold includes all five stamps. Gold’s standard
precious metal. mark is a crown.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Silver and platinum are stamped with all but the fineness mark. That’s
because the standard mark indicates the type of alloy it is, and the alloy
type indicates the fineness.
Silver, platinum, and palladium have their own standard marks. The Lion passant—A lion walking with its
symbol for sterling silver (92.5 percent pure) is a figure of a lion walking farthest forepaw raised; Britain’s
with its farthest forepaw raised, called a lion passant. Britannia silver, mark for sterling silver.
which is 95.8 percent fine, has a lion’s head or the seated figure of
Britannia, a female figure that symbolizes Britain. Britannia silver—Silver that’s 95.8
percent fine, represented by a lion’s
Platinum that’s 95 percent pure or higher is symbolized by a cross on top head or the seated figure of Britannia.
of a round globe, called an orb. As of January 2010, the hallmarking of
palladium became compulsory in Britain. The standard mark for palladium
that’s 50, 95, or 99.9 percent pure is a figure symbolizing Pallas Athene,
the Greek goddess of war, wearing a warrior’s helmet.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Regulations in Asia
In Japan, jewelry manufacturers submit their goods to the Mint Bureau,
an agency of the government’s Ministry of Finance. The Mint examines
the fineness of platinum, gold, silver, and platinum-and-gold items, then
stamps them with the Mint Certification Mark and a fineness mark.
Platinum items are also marked with a “Pt.”
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
The Mint Bureau’s fineness marks vary. There are marks for platinum in
850, 900, 950, and 1000 ppt categories; for gold in nine categories from
KEY
375 ppt (9K) through 1000 ppt; and for silver in 800, 900, 925, 950, and
CONCEPTS
1000 ppt categories. Precious metal plated goods are legally
Items made of platinum and gold combinations are marked with numbers defined by the thickness of the plating
that indicate the purity of both metals (for example, 750/900 Pt). and the fineness of the precious metal.
The Mint’s fineness mark is usually accompanied by a manufacturer’s
trademark.
In Hong Kong, the Customs and Excise Department administers gold
regulations through its Trade Descriptions Ordinance. The bottom limit
for gold alloy is 8K, or 333 ppt of gold.
Hong Kong jewelry items are stamped with special characters to indicate
purity levels. The finest gold—not less than 990 ppt, or 99 percent pure—
gets the designation of “Chuk Kam” The Chinese characters for “Chuk Pak
Kam” indicate platinum with a fineness of not less than 990 ppt.
Indonesia’s gold jewelry standards require a special mark along with the
manufacturer’s logo and karatage mark. The karatage is subject to confir-
mation by government and industry associations.
Valerie Power/GIA
Gold plating can give jewelry articles the rich look of gold at a fraction of the price of a
similar solid gold piece.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Types of Plating
Technique Description Quality Mark Example
Gold plate The item must be coated with 18K G.P. or
gold or a gold alloy of at least 2 microns 12K G.P.
10K, to a minimum thickness of
one-half micron. You can
indicate the exact thickness if
you also list the karat fineness.
FTC rules make retailers responsible for accurately describing the plated merchandise they sell. This table
shows common types of plating and their associated quality marks. These marks are examples of stamps
you might see—the actual stamp depends on the karatage of the alloy.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Robert Weldon/GIA
Style might refer to the category of jewelry piece, such as a pin or necklace, or it might
refer to the work of a particular designer. It’s also used to indicate jewelry from a
period in time.
Manufacturing
n What is the most common gem-setting style?
n What are the three main jewelry categories?
n What are the major jewelry manufacturing methods?
Although the word “style” is defined as “a distinctive and identifiable
form”—relating to an item’s structure, pattern, and shape—”jewelry style”
means much more than that. It might refer to the type of jewelry, such as
rings, earrings, necklaces, chains, bracelets, anklets, brooches, pins,
Setting style—The way a gem is
cufflinks, and tie tacks. Jewelry style can also refer to a look or design
secured in its mounting.
theme that represents a time period, or to designer, branded, or custom
jewelry. You’ll learn about these style variations in future assignments.
Mounting—Jewelry item with space
There are many jewelry setting styles, offering a variety of ways to hold for holding gems.
gems in place in their mountings. The most common setting style is the
prong setting, which consists of narrow metal supports that hold a gem Prong (claw) setting—Setting style
securely. In some countries, it’s called a claw setting. You’ll learn about consisting of narrow metal supports
many more setting styles in Assignment 2. that hold a gem in its mounting.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Eric Welch/GIA
Many customers prefer “brick-and-mortar” retail stores because they provide personal
service. They also like to be able to touch and try on the jewelry they’re about to purchase.
Jewelry Categories
About half of US consumers buy jewelry every year. They make their
purchases in retail settings ranging from discount stores to luxury venues.
Retailing includes television shopping channels, Web sites, discount and
mass merchandisers, department stores, independent and chain jewelers,
and others.
In the US market, jewelry is divided into three categories:
• Fine jewelry
• Bridge jewelry
• Fashion or costume jewelry
Fine jewelry is made of 14K or finer gold, sterling silver, or platinum. If it
contains gems, they’re high quality and usually of substantial size. Bridge
jewelry is the category in between. It’s made of gold that’s less than 14K
or lightweight 14K, gold-filled metal or sterling silver, and with or without
lower-quality gems. Fashion or costume jewelry might be made of base
metals, plastic, wood, or other common materials, with or without sterling
silver or gold plate. If it’s set with gems, they might be laboratory-grown
or imitations.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Hand Fabrication
In a truly hand-fabricated item, every element is formed, assembled,
joined, and finished entirely by hand or with hand tools. Flex shafts and
polishing wheels are considered hand tools because, although they’re
powered by electricity, they’re hand-controlled.
Because hand fabrication is time and labor intensive, the pieces can be
expensive, but the process has many benefits. For one thing, it offers
jewelers a great deal of creative freedom. It can result in complex designs
that might be impossible with other methods. It’s often used for creating
custom-designed, one-of-a-kind pieces, or to build pieces around gems
that would be difficult to set into pre-made mountings.
Lost-Wax Casting
Lost-wax casting can be used for mass production and one-of-a-kind
pieces. The casting process has several steps, starting with creating a wax
model of the piece to be cast. This is done either by hand or by injecting
the wax into a rubber mold. A plaster-like material called investment is
poured around the wax model.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
When the investment hardens, the wax is melted away, leaving a cavity
that is then filled with molten jewelry metal. When the metal hardens,
the investment is broken away, leaving a rough jewelry piece that is then
finished and polished.
Lost-wax casting is a versatile process that can produce both simple and
complex designs. The technique can be used to produce large numbers
of identical pieces, making it both economical and relatively affordable.
Also, details show up well in cast jewelry.
Die Striking
Die striking starts with manufacturing a steel pattern called a die that’s
designed to create a particular jewelry item or component. Dies usually
have two parts: a punch and a mold.
A die-striking machine cuts blanks of jewelry metals to the sizes and
shapes needed for the jewelry item. A blank is then placed between the
punch and the mold and subjected to tremendous pressure. This shapes
and compresses the metal to produce a dense, durable product.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Electroforming
In electroforming, several wax copies are created and coated with a thin
layer of conductive paint. The copies are then submerged in an electrically
charged solution that contains precious metal particles. The charged
particles bond to the coating, building a metallic surface.
When the precious metal layer is the desired thickness, the manufacturer
removes the forms. A heating process melts the wax out through a small
hole in the rigid metal shell.
Stuller, Inc. Electroforming creates hollow jewelry that’s light in weight but has a
Many people love big, bold earrings. massive look. It’s also surprisingly durable, although not as durable as cast
Electroforming can make large earrings and die-struck items. Because it uses less metal than other methods, the
comfortably lightweight because the process can also result in lower-priced jewelry.
process allows them to be hollow. The
precious metal shell produced by electro-
forming can also be fairly complex and
display either a bright or a matte finish.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Machining
Machining begins with the melting of the precious metal, which is then
hardened into a solid form called an ingot. After drilling a hole through the
center and smoothing the outer surface, the manufacturer forces the ingot
through a series of shaping steps that condense and elongate it into a tube.
When the tube is the desired thickness, the manufacturer cuts blanks from
it that are slightly larger than the finished jewelry item. The blanks are
mounted on cutting or milling machines for trimming to the desired size
and shape. After that, the jewelry items are given a final polish. Richard Boyd
These rings were cut from tubes
Machined jewelry includes wedding bands, solitaire ring settings, and produced by the machining process.
more. It’s even possible to add a gem-setting step to the machining Machined products are typically harder
process. Because the metal is repeatedly condensed as it’s shaped, and more durable than similar articles
machining results in stronger, denser, and harder metal than would be made by lost-wax casting.
possible with casting.
33
Jewelry Essentials 1
Valerie Power/GIA
If your store is tidy and well organized and your approach is polished and professional,
you’re more likely to succeed in jewelry sales.
34
Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Robert Weldon/GIA
Style might refer to the category of jewelry piece, such as a pin or necklace, or it might
refer to the work of a particular designer. It’s also used to indicate jewelry from a
period in time.
35
Jewelry Essentials 1
During the approach and information exchange, you make the customer
feel welcome and comfortable and get to know what he or she wants.
Building value is where you begin to deepen the customer’s participation
in the sales process. Creating desire helps the customer develop an
emotional attachment to you and to the jewelry item.
Once you’ve successfully moved through these stages, you can try a trial
close. That’s where you test your customer’s readiness to buy. After that,
it’s just a matter of getting the customer to commit and closing the sale.
Finally, the follow up is an important step that keeps you involved with
the customer and helps you promote future sales.
Although no sale follows a script perfectly, this system provides a
framework for success. In later assignments, you’ll learn about these steps
in more detail.
Andrew Lucas/GIA
Skilled cutters shape the hard-won rough emeralds into glittering gems.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
Piaget
A designer is able to envision a superb emerald necklace with a
scattering of tiny diamonds to add sparkle and grace.
Eric Welch/GIA
Many jewelry pieces contain diamonds. India is the world’s
premier center of diamond cutting. Cutters there fashion as
many as nine out of every ten diamonds.
Piaget Piaget
Talented artisans bring jewelry designs to life. They unite the The final result is a shining testament to human artistry. It’s a
glittering gems with gleaming precious metals to make unique jewelry masterpiece that combines gems, metals,
wearable art. design, manufacturing skill, and honest human labor.
37
Jewelry Essentials 1
What’s to Come
You’ve already gained some very useful information in this assignment.
Much of it—especially the jewelry basics and sales steps—lays a foundation
for what you’ll find in upcoming assignments.
There’s a lot in this assignment that you can use right away. For example,
you might include information about precious metals or jewelry manufac-
turing methods in your next sales presentation. As you progress through
the assignments, you’ll add to your knowledge and find other valuable
information you can use almost daily.
In the next assignment, you’ll learn about popular ring styles, store
security, and Sales Steps 1 and 2: Approach the Customer and Exchange
Information.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
KEY
CONCEPTS
To sell jewelry, you must know its features and be able to Silver’s bright, white shine and workability are its principal
explain the importance of those features to your customer. assets for use in jewelry.
Precious metals’ allure, rarity, workability, and durability make Most countries have stringent standards governing the use of
them excellent for use in jewelry. precious metals in jewelry.
Precious metals are expensive because they’re rare and In the US, a registered trademark must accompany a quality
difficult to extract from the earth. mark.
Gold’s appeal derives mostly from its color, luster, rarity, and The best way for a jeweler to protect against underkarating
resistance to corrosion. fraud is to buy only registered trademarked and quality
stamped gold jewelry.
Gold is often the choice of customers who are particularly
attracted to and excited by color.
Precious metal plated goods are legally defined by the thickness
Alloying gold increases its tensile strength and hardness and of the plating and the fineness of the precious metal.
makes it less expensive.
Considering the customer’s point of view and using a step-by-
In the US, 14K is the most popular jewelry gold alloy. step system will help you succeed in jewelry sales.
Platinum is highly resistant to tarnish, takes a high polish, and Selling is the process that helps a customer obtain a product
is harder to scratch than gold and silver. and the benefits it provides.
Palladium is a silvery white metal that has recently become The retailing of gems and jewelry is only one aspect of a huge
popular with jewelry consumers. worldwide industry.
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Jewelry Essentials 1
Key Terms
Alloy—A mixture of two or more metals. Lion passant—A lion walking with its farthest forepaw
raised; Britain’s mark for sterling silver.
Anodizing—An electrochemical process that results in a
protective or decorative coating on metal. Luster—The appearance of a material’s surface in
reflected light.
Base metals—Non-precious metals such as copper, zinc,
tin, nickel, lead, and iron. Malleable—Able to be shaped or bent without breaking.
Benefit—The value a feature holds for a customer.
Mounting—Jewelry item with space for holding gems.
Britannia silver—Silver that’s 95.8 percent fine, represented
by a lion’s head or the seated figure of Britannia. Patina—Soft, rich surface appearance that develops
with age.
Corrosion—Deterioration by a chemical action.
Plating—Depositing a metal coating electrically or
Ductile—Able to be drawn into wire or hammered into applying it mechanically onto another metal.
sheets without breaking.
Precious metals—Metals valued in jewelry, specifically
Durable—Long-lasting, especially without sustaining gold, platinum, and silver.
damage or wear.
Prong (claw) setting—Setting style consisting of narrow
Electroplating—Using electricity to deposit a coating of metal supports that hold a gem in its mounting.
precious metal, suspended in a solution, on another metal.
Quality mark—A stamp that indicates the purity of a
Feature—A characteristic or part of a piece of jewelry. precious metal.
Fine—Virtually free of impurities or alloying metals. Setting style—The way a gem is secured in its mounting.
Fineness—A measure of the purity of a precious metal.
Tarnish—A mild form of corrosion caused by contact with
chemical elements or compounds in the environment.
Hallmark—A British stamp that indicates the purity and
origin of a precious metal.
Tensile strength—Maximum stretching force a metal can
Hardness—How well a metal resists scratching and denting. withstand before breaking.
Heft—The weight or heaviness of an object compared to Trademark—A word, phrase, logo, symbol, or design
its size. that’s registered to identify the manufacturer of an item.
Karat—A unit of measure for the fineness of gold, based Underkarating—Misrepresenting the precious metal
on a total of 24 parts, abbreviated “K.” content of a jewelry item.
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Jewelry and Jewelry Sales
n What two pieces of information should you know about the jewelry you sell?
n What’s the best approach to use to make a customer feel comfortable in your store?
n What are some of the many links in the jewelry industry chain?
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Selling Rings 2
Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Popular Ring Setting Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Other Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Engagement and Wedding Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Other Diamond Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Colored Stone Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Gemstone Ring Cautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Store Security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Burglary, Theft, and Robbery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Shoplifting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
43
Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 2. With the knowledge you gain
from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Recognize a wide variety of diamond and colored stone ring setting styles.
• Explain the care requirements for diamonds and colored stones set in rings.
• Approach the customer and exchange information.
• Handle basic retail store security procedures.
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Selling Rings
Selling Rings
The young woman walked into the store and asked Barry about a three-
stone amethyst ring she’d seen in one of his store’s window displays.
“That’s a very pretty ring, isn’t it?” Barry responded. “It’s a good value too.
Would you like to take a closer look?”
“Yes, I would,” the woman replied. “It looks like a ring my husband gave
me when we were first married. I lost it down a drain.”
“Oh, I’m sorry to hear that,” Barry said. “Sentimental value is hard to
replace, but we can try.”
He unlocked the case and took the ring box out. He introduced himself
as he placed the ring on the counter pad.
“I’m Barry Williams,” he said.
“My name is Jennifer,” she replied.
“Was your ring also set with amethysts, Jennifer?” Barry continued.
“Yes,” she replied, “but their color wasn’t as bright as these.”
45
Jewelry Essentials 2
“All three stones are the finest-color amethysts available,” he said. “As
you’ve noticed, their color is particularly rich and velvety.”
“They’re lovely,” she said.
As he handed her the ring, Barry explained that the amethysts were all
oval cuts and the setting was 18-karat gold. Jennifer slid the ring onto her
right-hand ring finger, then held it up to admire it.
“Oh, it’s so beautiful,” Jennifer said. “What are the weights of the stones?”
“The center stone is nearly three carats and the outer ones are about one
carat each,” Barry replied.
“It’s a lovely ring,” she said softly. Then she continued, “And I’d love to
replace that long-lost ring and surprise my husband. Are the settings secure?”
“You don’t have to worry about that. As you can see, each stone is held
in place by six prongs,” Barry said. “Also, we guarantee our jewelry under
normal wear, and we have an in-store repair service.”
“That’s good to know,” Jennifer said. She didn’t have to think about it for
very long. She smiled and said, “I’ll take it.”
Barry rang up the sale and entered Jennifer’s information in the store’s
customer registry. He thanked her and gave her his business card. He
asked if she’d like him to contact her with store specials and cleaning
reminders. Jennifer said she would like that, then left the store wearing
her lovely new ring.
Ring Styles
n What are the two main parts of a ring?
n What’s the most popular gemstone for engagement, wedding, and
anniversary rings?
n What are some best-selling ring styles?
As you learned in Assignment 1, setting style refers to the way a gem is
secured in its mounting. Setting styles can range from a simple prong
setting to an elaborate custom setting created to accommodate a special
gemstone. In addition to providing a beautiful background for a gem, the
main purpose of a setting is to hold that gem securely.
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Selling Rings
Parts of a ring
Head
Shank
Peter Johnston/GIA
KEY
CONCEPTS
A setting’s primary purpose is to hold a
Eric Welch/GIA
gem securely.
Semi-mounts offer great flexibility for jewelers and clients alike. They let the client
choose both mounting and main gem to create a unique piece.
No matter what the style, every ring has two main parts. The part that fits Shank—The part of a ring that fits
around the finger is called the shank, and the part that holds the main around the finger.
gem or gems is called the head.
Head—The part of a mounting into
Often, a jewelry retailer keeps a selection of semi-mounts, which are settings which the main gems are set.
with side gems in place but no center stone. A semi-mount adds versatility
by letting the customer choose a loose stone for placement in the central Semi-mount—A setting with side
position. gems and space for a center stone of
the customer’s choosing.
Semi-mounts belong to a category of small jewelry pieces called findings.
Findings might be partially gem-set, but they’re often plain jewelry-metal Findings—Small components used to
components that can be used for making or repairing all types of jewelry. make or repair jewelry.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Eric Welch/GIA
A white metal bezel secures this beautiful
sapphire cabochon in its mounting.
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Selling Rings
In a bead setting, gems are recessed into holes drilled in the mounting. Bead setting—Setting style with
The bench jeweler uses a tool to push pieces of the surrounding metal up gems held in place by rounded
to hold each stone in place. Next, using a tool with a small cup at the beads, usually pushed up from the
end, called a beading tool, the bench jeweler shapes the jagged metal surrounding metal.
pieces into rounded “beads.”
Pavé setting—Bead setting with many
Pavé is a type of bead setting. In a pavé setting, the gemstones are placed small gems placed close together,
close together, often in a honeycomb pattern. It takes considerable skill to often in a honeycomb pattern.
create a quality pavé setting. The setter secures the gems in a metal surface
pierced with many tiny openings. Then, as in a regular bead setting, the Flush setting—Setting style with a
setter pushes up small bits of the surrounding metal to secure the gems. gem set directly into the metal with
A well executed pavé setting has the appearance of a sparkling field of gems. its table at the same level as the
In a flush setting, the gem is set directly into the surrounding metal, with metal surface.
the top of the gem—the table—even with the metal surface. Besides being
beautiful, the flush setting is very secure. And the gem is well protected Bezel—A thin metal strip that wraps
by the metal that surrounds it. around a gem to hold it in place.
A bezel is a thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold it securely Cabochon—A smoothly rounded
in place. Bezel settings can hold faceted stones, but they’re traditionally polished gem with a domed top and
used to hold cabochons, which are cut with smooth, unfaceted, domed a flat or curved base.
tops and flat or curved bottoms.
Invisible setting—Setting style with
Other Ring Styles grooved gems set between metal
Invisible settings are often associated with the pioneering work of design rails that hold them in place.
house Van Cleef and Arpels. They are the most difficult settings to accom-
plish well. In an invisible setting, each diamond or colored stone is grooved Illusion setting—Stone set within a
just below its girdle. The grooves help secure the gems between metal metal rim that makes the stone look
rails. Using this setting process, many gems can be placed together, with bigger.
no gaps between them. The result is a smooth, rich, seamless field of gems.
Tension setting—Setting with gem
In an illusion setting, the stone is set within a metal rim. The setting’s held in place by pressure between
purpose is to make a small stone look bigger. opposing pieces of platinum or karat
gold.
A tension setting fully displays a stone by making it look like it’s suspended
in space. The stone is held in place by pressure from two opposing pieces
of platinum or karat gold. The tension setting is most often used with harder
gems because the pressure it exerts tends to damage less durable ones.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Shutterstock
Wedding sets, or duos, come in an enticing array of styles to suit every couple’s taste.
Engagement ring—Ring set with a The stones surrounding a solitaire don’t This solitaire boasts a 1.25-ct. center
gem, usually a diamond, given to have to be large to create a dazzling diamond between two matching 0.25-ct
signify an intention to marry. effect. Rows of tiny diamonds add a diamonds. Some trade professionals call
delicate touch to this mounting. this arrangement a three-stone setting.
Wedding ring—A ring, usually a plain
band, worn by someone who is Engagement and Wedding Rings
married.
The tradition of wearing both an engagement ring and a wedding ring
Wedding set (duo)—A pair consisting dates back to the 1800s. The concept of matched wedding and engagement
of a woman’s matched engagement rings, however, is a twentieth-century development. In retail sales, the
and wedding rings. matched pair is often called a wedding set, bridal set, or duo.
Solitaire—Jewelry piece with one The traditional engagement ring is a diamond solitaire, which consists of
main gem, typically a diamond. a single main gem. The wedding ring is a band of gold, platinum, or other
precious metal. The metal might be plain or decorated, and it might be
Wrap—A ring designed to dress up a set with diamonds or other gems.
second ring, which is often a solitaire.
The wedding ring might be designed as a wrap or a guard. The wrap supports
Guard—A ring worn to enclose and the ring on one side and the guard has two shanks that surround it
enhance another ring; also a bar completely. Both are designed to enhance the beauty of the engagement
secured across a ring’s shank to ring. There’s another type of guard that’s practical rather than decorative.
reduce its diameter and keep it from It’s simply a bar that’s secured across the shank to reduce a ring’s size and
sliding off. keep it from sliding off.
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Selling Rings
Royalty-Free/Corbis
Whatever the style, a wedding set
symbolizes a loving landmark in your
clients’ lives.
Eric Welch/GIA
Not every solitaire setting features a round brilliant diamond. Some brides fall in love
with fancy cuts, like the pear shape in this ring.
A matched ensemble consisting of an engagement ring, a woman’s wedding Trio—Matched ensemble consisting
ring, and a man’s wedding band is sometimes called a trio. of an engagement ring, a woman’s
wedding ring, and a man’s wedding
In Japan and Western societies, the gemstones in women’s engagement band.
and wedding rings are most often diamonds. De Beers, the diamond
mining and marketing conglomerate, has successfully promoted that idea
for decades. Largely through De Beers’ powerful advertising and public
relations efforts, diamonds have come to signify milestones in people’s lives.
Not everyone accepts the diamonds-only idea for an engagement ring,
however. In 1981, Prince Charles and Princess Diana attracted international KEY
media attention when Diana proudly wore a sapphire engagement ring. CONCEPTS
The colored stone engagement ring honored a British royal tradition, and Engagement and wedding rings are
couples worldwide followed the couple’s lead. Their son, Prince William, most often set with diamonds.
inherited Diana’s ring upon her death and presented it to his fiancée, Kate,
when they became engaged in 2010.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Eric Welch/GIA
Variations on the classic solitaire remain very popular. This ring features a pale pink
diamond with matching accents.
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Selling Rings
KEY
CONCEPTS
Modern three-stone jewelry is promoted
to represent the past, present, and
future of a relationship.
53
Jewelry Essentials 2
You might also see anniversary or eternity rings set with colored stones
instead of diamonds, or with a combination of colored stones and diamonds.
They’re ideal companions to colored stone solitaire rings.
Some rings are designed to dazzle the eye. One of those is the flashy,
Cocktail ring—A flashy, oversized ring,
oversized cocktail ring that was originally popularized in the 1940s and
often set with less-expensive gems.
1950s. To allow for impressive gem size and affordability, cocktail rings
are often set with less-expensive gems.
Cluster ring—Ring with a group of
small stones set closely together or a The cluster ring is also impressive, with a group of small stones or a large
large central gem surrounded by center stone surrounded by smaller gems. A ballerina ring takes its name
several smaller ones. and design from a ballerina’s tutu, with rectangular diamonds encircling
a larger stone, often a colored gem.
Ballerina ring—A ring that looks like
a ballerina’s tutu, with a central stone Designers might use colored stones in contrasting colors and shapes to
encircled by rectangular diamonds. create dramatic custom rings. For example, the bold green of tsavorite
54
Selling Rings
Valerie Power/GIA
Cluster rings that consist of a large central colored gem encircled by matched
diamonds are among the most popular ring styles.
55
Jewelry Essentials 2
Robert Weldon/GIA
Sapphires are tough, durable gems. This
fine example from the famous Kashmir
mines is a gem that can truly withstand
everyday wear.
Valerie Power/GIA
Cultured pearls are perennial favorites as ring stones, but many experts counsel
caution because pearls are softer than many other gems. With proper care, these
lustrous beauties will last a lifetime.
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Selling Rings
Eric Welch/GIA
You’ll meet a wide variety of customers, all
in the market for jewelry that’s just right
for them. Try to adjust your approach to
suit their demeanor.
Valerie Power/GIA
As a sales associate, you project your store’s image and market position.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Valerie Power/GIA
As you go through your day, check the
prices, weights, and styles of your store’s
jewelry pieces. You’ll benefit by having
this information at your fingertips.
Valerie Power/GIA
Get to know your store’s inventory. The more you know about what you have, the
higher your chances of matching your client’s needs with the jewelry in stock.
Preparing to Sell
There are several things you should know before you can put any sales
techniques to work. First, be familiar with your store’s basic procedures.
Learn how to use the cash registers and other equipment. Know how to
handle credit and debit cards, checks and cash. Learn your store’s policies
on guarantees, warranties, layaways, and returns. Be aware of any
additional services your store offers, like cleaning and repair, shipping,
and gift wrapping.
You should also know your store’s layout as well as the location of the
keys to locked cases. Keep current on sales, specials, and promotions.
Learn what goods you have in inventory, what is available by special order,
and how long it takes for an order to come in.
You should also become familiar with prices. It’s probably impossible to
memorize the price of every item in your store, but you should at least
know price ranges for the goods you have available.
It also helps to be familiar with your competitors and what they offer.
There’s only one effective way to get this information: Visit their stores. If
your competitors are sharp, they’re checking your store too.
Many jewelry purchases are based on romance and emotion, but there’s
no substitute for good presentation and product knowledge. It’s important
to be familiar with your products and how to handle and present them,
and always follow your store’s security policies when showing jewelry.
Handle the merchandise with respect.
When customers ask questions about gems, metals, styles, or anything else,
KEY you must be able to answer them with authority. If you don’t know your
CONCEPTS store’s merchandise, you risk losing sales, no matter how good your selling
Knowledge of your store’s merchandise techniques are. Customers who don’t have confidence in your product
is essential to sales success. knowledge won’t return to your store or send their friends your way.
Once you’ve taken these preparation steps, you’re ready to begin applying
the Seven Steps of a Sale.
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Selling Rings
Eric Welch/GIA
Many male customers are interested in specific technical features or details of a piece.
If the jewelry item meets their specifications, you might be able to complete the
transaction quickly.
59
Jewelry Essentials 2
Andy Lucas/GIA
Find out as much as you can about your customer and her needs. Ask questions that
help you determine if the jewelry is for her or a gift for a loved one. You can also get
clues for possible jewelry purchases from the way a person dresses and acts.
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Selling Rings
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Eric Welch/GIA
If you show genuine interest in your customers’ needs and respond effectively to what
they say, you’re far more likely to match them to the jewelry piece they’re looking for.
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Selling Rings
Or like this:
“What brings you into our store today?”
“I had some time to kill.”
“Well, jewelry-store browsing is surely a good way to kill time. Is there
something you’d like to find before the time runs out?”
There will always be those customers who really are just looking and do Turnover—Giving another sales
want you to go away. If they’re determined, there’s not much you can do. associate a customer you’re not
You might sense that you and a particular customer aren’t compatible. It’s compatible with.
inevitable that some people, for whatever reason, won’t like you. If you
sense that’s the case, you might try a turnover.
To do this, you say something like, “OK, I hope you enjoy looking,” and
walk away. Then you ask another sales associate whose looks and manner
are completely different from yours to approach the customer and start over.
Another effective technique to try with a customer who isn’t shopping
for a specific item is to show great enthusiasm about particular pieces in
your store. You might have some new merchandise, for example, or uniquely
designed pieces, or some items that contain gems that were recently in the
news. If you don’t act as if you’re trying to sell something, your customer
might share your enthusiasm and buy.
Eric Welch/GIA
It’s important to pay attention to your customers’ demeanor when they enter your
store. Don’t expect the same approach to work every time.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Valerie Power/GIA
You should try to ask the right questions and listen carefully to your customer’s
answers. The information you gain will help you respond to her needs and provide the
jewelry she’ll want to buy.
The more effectively you exchange information at this stage, the less time
it’ll take you to complete the sale. Start with broad questions and narrow
down to specifics. Find out what category your customer is interested in.
Does she want a necklace? A ring? A bracelet? Perhaps a set? Then, within
that category, what metal, what gem, what cut, what jewelry design? Then,
which specific item?
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Selling Rings
As a jewelry sales
associate, you
must find out as
much as you can
about your
customer’s needs.
You should also
provide them with
information that
will help them
select the jewelry
pieces that are
perfect for them.
Eric Welch/GIA
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Cheryl: Not really. The only necklaces she’s ever worn are pearl strands.
KEY What about a bracelet?
CONCEPTS
Larry: A bracelet might not be such a good idea. Opals aren’t hard and
When customers trust you and your durable enough to be worn on the wrist. But I can show you a lovely black
store, they’re more likely to buy from opal brooch. It’s beautifully designed in yellow gold.
you and to tell others about their good Cheryl: Oh, it is lovely! But its size tells me it’s beyond my budget.
experience.
Larry: Well, we do have these matching earrings. Do you think your mother
would like them?
Gems and jewelry are attractive to
thieves because most items are small Cheryl: They’re perfect! Although I still wonder if the price is too high.
and valuable. Note that Larry started by using the word “shopping” rather than the more
intimidating word “buying.” He didn’t ask how much Cheryl wanted to
spend, which is never a good idea because it’s too limiting, and he didn’t
dwell on price. Note also that he framed his questions according to what
the gift recipient, rather than the gift buyer, might like.
During this short exchange, Larry skillfully accomplished several things:
He determined that Cheryl was shopping for a gift for her mother’s fiftieth
wedding anniversary. He tried to include a gift for her father but found
that wasn’t his customer’s intention. He learned that Cheryl’s mother was
fond of opals. He suggested and got no resistance to yellow gold. He
learned that her mother probably wouldn’t want an opal necklace.
Objection—A temporary obstacle, He gave good reasons for discouraging an opal bracelet. He knew he had
raised by the customer, that delays or a very expensive black opal and yellow gold brooch and more affordable
even stops the sale. matching earrings in stock, so he offered the brooch first, knowing if she
refused it he could fall back to the earrings. Cheryl then raised a price
Word of mouth—Spoken information objection that might have delayed or even stopped the sale. Fortunately,
passed from person to person. Larry was ready to move to the next step, Build Value, and to respond to
his customer’s hesitation about price. You’ll learn about this step in the
Scam—A fraudulent business next assignment.
scheme or swindle. Underlying this exchange of information is a very important point: Larry
is establishing and building trust. When customers trust sales associates
and a store, they buy, they return, and they tell others about their good
experience by spreading favorable word of mouth.
Store Security
n What types of theft are jewelry retailers vulnerable to?
n How can you help prevent thefts and scams?
Gems and jewelry are particularly attractive to thieves because they’re
small and valuable. After all, it’s much easier to steal, conceal, and sell a
valuable diamond than, say, a luxury automobile.
As a beginning sales associate, you’ll probably work in a store where the
security system and procedures were established before you started, and
modified over time to be as effective as possible. Sales associates’ security
Joel Beeson/GIA
roles vary from store to store, and learning yours will be part of your pre-
It's good policy to keep everyone locked employment or on-the-job training. As you gain experience, you might be
out of your place of business before and able to suggest changes if you find areas where security might be improved.
after business hours--even delivery
personnel. You should also always ask for A retail store is vulnerable to several types of theft. These include burglary,
identification from people you don't know. robbery, smash-and-grab, shoplifting, and fraudulent schemes called scams.
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Selling Rings
Eric Welch/GIA
Most stores make sure that jewelry that exceeds a certain value is removed from
window displays and stored securely in a safe overnight.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
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Selling Rings
Shoplifting
For every $1 lost to burglars and robbers, the jewelry industry loses $300
to shoplifters. As a sales associate, you’ll have more contact with shoplifters
than any other store employee has, whether you know the thieves are
stealing or not.
You can help protect against shoplifting by making sure you never leave
merchandise unattended. Always lock the display cases after showing and
replacing jewelry items, and keep the keys with you.
It’s also important to set up the displays so they’re easy to check. If a case
is crowded, it’s hard to tell if anything is missing. When you set up a ring
tray, fill every space, either with a ring or a placeholder that’s unique to
the store and easy to recognize. Arrange the rings in a geometric pattern
so anyone can tell at a glance if one is missing. It’s helpful to map the
displays and to keep the maps current.
Show only one item at a time when you’re helping a customer make a
selection. If you have several items out on a counter, it’s easier for a thief
to steal or switch an item, or to grab them all and run. And make sure the
same person who takes an item out of the case is responsible for returning
it. That way, there’s no doubt who’s handling a particular item, and it’s
easier to keep track.
Pay close attention to your customers. Make eye contact with and greet
everyone who comes into your store. Besides being a good sales technique, KEY
it discourages thieves because they immediately know you’re aware of CONCEPTS
them. Making a habit of this allows you to create a mental picture of
anyone who looks suspicious. Focus on features like gender, age, and A code word or phrase can help you
height rather than changeable things like clothes. If you have suspicions, alert your co-workers to suspicious
signal the other employees by using a prearranged code word or phrase. behavior.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Shutterstock
Make sure you follow your store’s guidelines for accepting credit card payments. It’s
one way of guarding against scams.
Scams
A scam is a fraudulent scheme used to make money by dishonest means.
It looks like a legitimate business transaction, but one of the parties
involved is being deceitful. Your store probably has very specific procedures
to help protect against scams.
Scams sometimes involve bad checks. Even if you verify a check with the
customer’s bank or use a bank’s instant electronic check verification
service, there’s nothing to stop a scammer from stopping payment. This
even applies to cashier’s checks, which many people think are foolproof.
Identity theft is a type of scam that has become quite common. You might
encounter a customer who represents himself or herself as someone else
and uses that person’s credit cards and forms of identification to illicitly
buy gems and jewelry. Immediately be suspicious of an unfamiliar
customer who is casually or quickly spending a great deal of money.
Asking for at least two forms of identification and checking them closely
is one way to protect yourself and your store.
Switching stones is another common scam. You might show a dishonest
customer an expensive ruby and wind up with an inexpensive garnet
because your customer distracted your attention and switched stones.
In this assignment, you learned about rings and the beginning stages of
the selling process. You also learned that store security awareness is an
important part of your job. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about
earrings, necklaces, bracelets, brooches, and pins, and then move on to
Sales Step 3: Build Value.
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Selling Rings
KEY
CONCEPTS
A setting’s primary purpose is to hold a gem securely. Your goal during the approach is to overcome your customer’s
built-in sales resistance.
Engagement and wedding rings are almost always set with
diamonds. Each customer and each situation requires a different approach.
Modern three-stone jewelry is promoted to represent the past, When customers trust you and your store, they’re more likely
present, and future of a relationship. to buy from you and to tell others about their good experience.
The approach and information exchange are the most A code word or phrase can help you alert your co-workers to
important parts of the sales process. suspicious behavior.
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Jewelry Essentials 2
Key Terms
Anniversary band—Ring with a row of gems of the same Invisible setting—Setting style with grooved gems set
size and cut. between metal rails that hold them in place.
Ballerina ring—A ring that looks like a ballerina’s tutu, Mother’s ring—Ring personalized with children’s birthstones.
with a central stone encircled by rectangular diamonds.
Objection—A temporary obstacle, raised by the customer,
Bead setting—Setting style with gems held in place by that delays or even stops the sale.
rounded beads, usually pushed up from the surrounding
metal. Open-ended question—A question that requires a
thoughtful, specific answer other than “yes” or “no.”
Bezel—A thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold
it in place. Pavé setting—Bead setting with many small gems placed
close together, often in a honeycomb pattern.
Birthstone—Gem associated with the month in which a
person was born. Right-hand ring—A diamond ring promoted as a self-
purchase and worn on a woman’s right hand to signify
Bypass (crossover) ring—Ring where the ends of the shank independence and power.
pass each other rather than meeting at the head.
Saddle ring—Hololith with a decoratively carved top.
Cabochon—A smoothly rounded polished gem with a
domed top and a flat or curved base. Scam—A fraudulent business scheme or swindle.
Channel setting—Setting style with gems held in grooves, Semi-mount—A setting with side gems and space for a
or channels. center stone of the customer’s choosing.
Cluster ring—Ring with a group of small stones set closely Shank—The part of a ring that fits around the finger.
together or a large central gem surrounded by several
smaller ones. Signet ring—A flat-topped ring that might be engraved
with initials or other unique insignia.
Cocktail ring—A flashy, oversized ring, often set with less-
expensive gems. Solitaire—Jewelry piece with one main gem, typically a
diamond.
Engagement ring—Ring set with a gem, usually a diamond,
given to signify an intention to marry. Take-away—A two-part sales technique that removes a
customer’s just-looking defense.
Eternity ring—Ring encircled with a row of closely
matched gems. Tension setting—Setting with gem held in place by pressure
between opposing pieces of platinum or karat gold.
Findings—Small components used to make or repair
jewelry. Trio—Matched ensemble consisting of an engagement
ring, a woman’s wedding ring, and a man’s wedding band.
Flush setting—Setting style with a gem set directly into the
metal with its table at the same level as the metal surface. Turnover—Giving another sales associate a customer
you’re not compatible with.
Guard—A ring worn to enclose and enhance another ring;
also a bar secured across a ring’s shank to reduce its Wedding ring—A ring, usually a plain band, worn by
diameter and keep it from sliding off. someone who is married.
Head—The part of a mounting into which the main gems Wedding set (duo)—A pair consisting of a woman’s
are set. matched engagement and wedding rings.
Hololith—Jewelry carved entirely from a single gemstone, Word of mouth—Spoken information passed from person
often jade. to person.
Illusion setting—Stone set within a metal rim that makes Wrap—A ring designed to dress up a second ring, which is
the stone look bigger. often a solitaire.
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Selling Rings
n What’s the most popular gemstone for engagement, wedding, and anniversary rings?
n How do you obtain the information you need to sell to an individual customer?
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, 3
Earrings, and Pins
Necklaces and Chains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Necklace Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Neck Chain Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Bracelets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Bracelet Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Cuffs and Bangles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Earrings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Earring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Brooches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Brooch Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
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Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 3. With the knowledge you gain
from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Identify a wide variety of necklace and neck chain styles and lengths.
• Define bracelet, earring, and brooch styles.
• Demonstrate the operation of various types of jewelry clasps.
• Address the emotional and tangible aspects of jewelry value.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
Vianna Joias
Although rings are the most widely sold jewelry articles, necklaces and earrings are
also very popular. Tourmaline and peridot accent this coordinated suite.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
“Yes, it is,” Diana replied warmly. “But I’ve never owned a ruby. I’m sure
it’s much too expensive.”
Alice knew that this was a specific price objection that she couldn’t ignore.
She also knew that a good way to turn a price objection around is to
emphasize value.
“Actually, this ruby is an excellent value,” Alice said.
“Really?” Diana replied. “What makes it an excellent value?”
“The finest rubies are faceted, natural, and untreated,” Alice replied. “And
you’re right, they’re rare and very expensive. But this ruby is a cabochon
and it’s also heat treated. It has the look of a fine-quality ruby, but it actually
reduces your cost in two ways.”
“Two ways?” Diana asked.
“Yes,” Alice replied. “A cabochon is less expensive than a faceted stone.
And heat treatment permanently improves the color and clarity to give a
Israel Itzkowitz
good-quality ruby a fine-quality look.”
Each of these heart-shaped pendants
contains 21 square or radiant-cut gems, As Diana paused to consider this, Alice unlocked the case, took the
all expertly matched and set. necklace out, and laid it carefully on the counter pad. Then she suggested,
“Here, just try it on.”
Diana took the piece from Alice, draped it around her neck, and turned
to let Alice fasten the clasp. As Diana turned back around, Alice adjusted
the counter mirror so they both could see the necklace.
“Oh, the color is perfect for you,” Alice said. “Don’t you agree?”
“Yes, I like it very much,” Diana replied. “But I’ve been told to be careful
with some of my other jewelry—that gems can scratch or fall out of their
mountings. Can that happen with this ruby?”
“Ruby is the second hardest gem after diamond,” Alice replied, “so unless
you abuse it, it won’t scratch. And a high-quality bezel setting like this is
unlikely to fail. But if it does, it’s guaranteed—we’ll repair it free.”
Satisfied with Alice’s responses to her concerns, Diana smiled to herself as
she turned back and forth to admire her new necklace in the counter mirror.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
Eric Welch/GIA
This contemporary yellow gold and gem-set necklace
reproduces a traditional style from India.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Necklace lengths
16″ chain
18″ chain
20″ chain
24″ chain
30″ chain
36″ chain
Peter Johnston/GIA
Necklaces and chains come in several standard lengths for daytime to evening wear.
Necklace Styles
The pendant necklace is very popular with both men and women. The
pendant is often attached with a piece of metal called a bail. There’s also
a type of pendant that fits directly onto the chain without a bail. It’s called
a slide.
The diamond solitaire pendant necklace is a best seller in today’s market.
The diamond can be any size and shape, and it’s often prong-set, but might
be bezel-set.
Bail—The piece of metal that
attaches a pendant to a chain or The cultured pearl strand is another popular style. Its popularity has risen
strand. with increases in the number of types of cultured pearls in the marketplace.
The traditional cream and white colors of akoya cultured pearls have been
Slide—A pendant that attaches supplemented by deeply hued Tahitian and golden South Sea cultured
directly to a chain without a bail. pearls, and Chinese freshwater cultured pearls in exciting new hues.
Some necklaces consist of multiple strands layered or twisted together. A
Enhancer—A removable pendant bead or pearl strand might also feature an enhancer—a removable
designed to accent a strand of beads pendant that clips onto the strand to give it a different look.
or cultured pearls.
The station necklace features gems, beads, or cultured pearls at regularly
Station necklace—A necklace with spaced intervals on cord, chain, or wire. The intervals are called stations.
gems, cultured pearls, or beads Tiffany’s popular Diamonds by the Yard is a classic station necklace, with
positioned at regular intervals. round brilliant diamonds spaced along a gold or platinum chain.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Vianna Joias
The market encompasses a great variety This unique necklace rests on the shoulders. An artisan fashioned each large link
of chain designs and finishes. Chain individually.
necklaces often combine different gold
alloy colors and textures.
Neck Chain Styles
Personal adornment with neck chains has a long history. They were
especially popular in the Renaissance and Victorian eras. Early artisans
fashioned chains by hand. Hand fabrication means each link must be
individually shaped, attached to the next link, and soldered shut, making
this a labor-intensive and expensive process.
Some of today’s designers still use hand fabrication to create unique chains
with intricate patterns, and links in unusual abstract shapes. Even so, most
modern chains are machine-made.
The unadorned chain comes in styles for both men and women. A typical
chain is a series of linked loops of metal wire, but it might consist of
connected balls or disks instead.
The curb link chain is a jewelry store basic. The style consists of oval links
that are twisted and then flattened so the chain lies flat. Curb link chains
are strong yet flexible, and they’re usually easy to repair.
Curb link chain—Chain style with
The figaro chain is a fashionable variation on the curb link chain. The
flattened oval links.
classic figaro chain consists of three short links between each pair of long
links. Other figaro styles have a similar repeating pattern, but the number
Figaro chain—Type of curb link chain
of short links varies.
with a repeating pattern of long and
short links. Rope chains usually consist of attached segments of two or more oval links
each. This classic style, which resembles woven rope, offers a substantial,
Rope chain—Solid or hollow chain opulent look, especially in wider widths. The links of a rope chain might
that usually has oval links and be solid or hollow, and they sometimes feature small flat surfaces that
resembles a woven rope. give them extra sparkle.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
KEY
CONCEPTS
Most modern chains are machine-made.
Shutterstock
Substantial feel and rich yellow color make this chain especially desirable. This
pattern of interlocking links is called herringbone.
Box chains are made up of angular links joined together by solid metal Box chain—A chain consisting of
squares. The combination gives the chain the appearance of a succession angular links joined by solid metal
of tiny boxes. squares.
At first glance, omega chains look like hoops of solid metal. Closer Omega chain—A flexible chain
inspection reveals tightly joined, diagonal segments that let the chain flex consisting of tightly joined diagonal
and conform to the shape of the wearer’s neck. segments.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Bracelets
n What is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles?
n Which bracelet types are rigid rather than flexible?
Bracelets are among the earliest adornments. In ancient Egypt, men and
KEY women frequently wore gold bands or twisted gold wire on their wrists
CONCEPTS and upper arms. Early bracelets were often decorated with figures of
Bracelets are among the earliest personal snakes or sphinxes.
adornments. Bracelets remained popular until the fall of the Roman Empire (476 AD),
when the long sleeves worn in the Middle Ages (476 AD to 1517 AD)
sent them into obscurity. Bracelets didn’t become fashionable again until
the 1800s.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Bracelet Styles
Some bracelet styles might be set with gems. Others might display the beauty
of precious metal alone. Some bracelets are flexible, while others are rigid.
A bracelet might be a simple chain worn around the wrist, and it’s often
paired with a matching neck chain. Chain bracelets are worn by both men
and women. Curb link chains, for example, are often used in traditional
men’s and women’s identification bracelets.
The typical length for a woman’s chain bracelet is about 7 in. (18 cm).
Bracelets might be made in other lengths to be worn around the upper arm
or ankle.
Tennis bracelet—A flexible bracelet The diamond tennis bracelet is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles.
set with a line of small matched gems, It’s a flexible band of precious metal set with small faceted gems—
typically diamonds. typically diamonds. The gems are matched in size and set in a line that
encircles the wrist.
The tennis bracelet is actually the classic straight-line bracelet with a new
name. It got that name from champion tennis player Chris Evert. Evert’s
diamond straight-line bracelet slipped off during a televised tennis match.
She stopped the match to retrieve it, calling it her “tennis bracelet,” and
the name became part of jewelry history.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
Hamilton Jewelers
Large gems in pastel colors give this
bracelet style and heft. The piece is
accented with a diamond-set clasp.
Eric Welch/GIA
This upscale diamond line bracelet features colorless emerald cuts and larger yellow
radiant-cut gems.
Peter Krasilnikoff
Charm bracelets are still popular today. They’re easily customized by the wearer, who
can add charms to celebrate important life events.
Charm bracelets are decorated with one or more small ornaments, or Charm bracelet—A bracelet
charms, which might be beads or cast metal figures, and are sometimes consisting of one or more small
set with cultured pearls or gems. Many bracelets come with the charms attached ornaments.
already attached, but some allow the wearer to buy charms separately
and add them.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Tino Hammid/GIA
These bracelets feature white gold and pavé-set diamonds. This flexible 18K yellow gold cuff in the crossover style is
enriched by scores of beautiful diamonds. It was produced by
jewelry design house Van Cleef & Arpels around 1945.
Hamilton Jewelers
This beautifully finished 18K yellow gold bracelet features a delicate scroll design
accented with clusters of tiny diamonds.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
Earrings
n What factors have influenced earring design and use over the years?
n Which earring types are popular today?
Earrings come in many shapes and sizes, and these face-framing ornaments
have been part of every culture. Earrings of ancient Greece—some repre-
senting boats, animal heads, or supernatural figures—are especially fine
examples of classical design. Over the centuries, earring design has
changed many times in response to fashion and hairstyles.
Earrings might be attached by a wire that passes through a hole pierced
through the earlobe or grip a non-pierced earlobe with a clip or screwback.
The screwback consists of a screw with a flat end that tightens against the
earlobe.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Claire Bersani
These classically inspired earrings
feature red garnet cabochons and
freshwater cultured pearls.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Body Jewelry
People have been piercing their bodies and adorning
them with jewelry for hundreds, if not thousands,
of years. Even so, body jewelry is a fairly modern
addition to the jewelry trade. This unusual category
is more accurately described as body-piercing jewelry.
Brooches
n What is one of the oldest pin styles?
n What are some popular brooch design themes?
Brooch (pin)—Jewelry piece that Long ago, people used brooches, or pins, to keep their clothing in place,
attaches to a garment, often by a making them practical as well as ornamental. Today, buttons, zippers, and
hinged pin and catch. hook-and-loop fasteners like Velcro serve this purpose, and pins are worn
primarily as ornaments. In Japan, they still serve both purposes by
Stickpin—A long, straight pin with an decorating ladies’ ceremonial kimonos and also holding the folds of
ornamental top. clothing in place.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
As more women started entering the work force in the 1970s, the brooch
became a popular lapel ornament. Brooches come in a variety of shapes,
including circles, bows, flowers, geometric shapes, and even insect and
animal designs.
Brooches are styled with and without gems. Their designs can be sweet
and sentimental or bold and abstract. Some brooches, especially in estate
or vintage jewelry, have a dangling cultured pearl, pendant, or tassel. Most
brooches fasten to a dress or lapel by means of a pin and safety catch.
The jewelry styles you’ve learned about so far represent a small portion
of the constantly changing world of jewelry fashion. The best way to stay
informed about jewelry trends is by reading trade and fashion magazines.
Demonstrating Jewelry
To build value, it’s important to demonstrate the jewelry rather than merely
show it. You should involve your customer in the demonstration by letting
her try the jewelry on. Give her a mirror so she can see how it looks. If
looking at the stone or stones through a loupe or microscope helps, give
your customer access to those tools.
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Valerie Power/GIA
Once a customer tries on a piece of
jewelry, she can start to imagine what it
would be like to own it.
Valerie Power/GIA
Once you’ve determined the kind of jewelry your customer is looking for, it’s time to
let her try on a few pieces.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
To reinforce the necklace’s emotional value, Alice helped Diana try it on.
Finally, when Diana raised questions about the jewelry’s durability, Alice
used her product and store-policy knowledge to overcome those
objections.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
Valerie Power/GIA
If your customer falls in love with an inexpensive jewelry piece instead of the one you
expected, respect her choice. Building a relationship with the client is more important
than a single sale. She might buy a much more expensive piece next time.
You’ll be most successful when you sell each piece on its own merits.
Don’t fall into the trap of negatively comparing one piece with another KEY
or one gemstone with another. If your customer shifts her buying attention CONCEPTS
to a comparison piece that you’ve already portrayed negatively, you’ve You’ll be most successful when you sell
lost any chance of a sale. each piece on its own merits.
Also, don’t make negative comments about competing merchandise or a
competitor’s store. That only creates a gloomy, negative atmosphere that Avoid negative comments about
clouds your sales environment. competing merchandise or a
Unless price is so high that it removes a piece from consideration, price competitor’s store.
is less important to a customer who understands the emotional and
tangible value of the jewelry. With your product knowledge, you can help Price is less important to a customer
her see that she’s getting good value for her money. who understands value.
Occasionally, you’ll encounter a customer who’s on a mission to buy. You
don’t want to get in her way, but what if you see she’s making a risky
choice? For example, what if your customer likes pink gemstones and is
determined to buy a relatively soft stone like kunzite to mount in a ring
she’ll be wearing every day?
You might want to suggest that she consider a harder stone like pink
sapphire and explain why. This way, you can gently steer your customer
off the wrong course and onto one that will both fulfill her mission to buy
and register a good sale for your store. In the end, it’s likely your customer
will be grateful, return for future purchases, and recommend you to others.
In the next assignment, you’ll learn about designer, branded, custom, and
estate jewelry, and proceed to Sales Step 4: Create Desire.
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Jewelry Essentials 3
Eric Welch/GIA
In India, jewelry consumption is increasing.
The jewelry store was located on a busy downtown reached a seat, every eye turned toward her. The sales-
street in Hyderabad, India. The storefront was narrow— person closest to the woman’s chair stepped forward.
a glass wall with no window displays. The interior
“Good morning, what jewelry may I show you
was a long center aisle lined with glass-topped
today?” he asked.
display cases and, behind them, shallow, glass-front
cabinets. The cases displayed items like rings, pins, “I am looking for gold bangles,” the woman replied.
bracelets, and bangles, while necklaces, chains, and
earrings hung on pins in the cabinets. The jewelry “We have many styles, all in 18- or 22-karat gold,”
selection was mostly gold. Some items contained he said. “Are you interested in something simple,
gemstones or pearls, but most did not. elaborate, or in between?”
“Fairly elaborate, and with inset emeralds,” she replied.
The store’s salespeople stood stationed behind the
thigh-high display cases. Some of them were busy “I think we have many you will like,” he said. “My
with customers, while others waited. Cup-shaped name is Raj, what may I call you?”
chairs sat in the aisle in front of the cases. The store “I am Lakshmi,” the woman replied with a hint of a
was softly lit and free of glare. smile on her lips and in her eyes.
A tall, slender woman entered the store. Her movement Raj slid the display case open from the rear and took
down the center aisle was more a flow than a walk. out a long, black velvet bar, around which were looped
She wore a traditional saree over a petticoat and tight- about 50 gleaming bangles resting side by side. The
fitting blouse, or choli. The saree’s loose end, or pallu, styles varied in complexity. Some had inset gems,
crossed her torso and draped over her left shoulder, while others did not. Many were duplicates. Lakshmi
where it was fastened with a gold pin. Its hem was looked them over and touched a pair near one end. Raj
decorated with intricately woven gold thread. As she removed them and placed them on the counter pad.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
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Jewelry Essentials 3
KEY
CONCEPTS
Most modern chains are machine-made. Tailor the feature and benefit information to your customer’s needs.
Bracelets are among the earliest personal adornments. A jewelry piece’s value can be both emotional and tangible.
Trade and fashion magazines can help you keep up with You’ll be most successful when you sell each piece on its
constantly changing jewelry trends. own merits.
Always pair features with their corresponding benefits. Avoid negative comments about competing merchandise or
a competitor’s store.
People make buying decisions based on benefits, not features.
Price is less important to a customer who understand value.
Key Terms
Bail—The piece of metal that attaches a pendant to a Omega chain—A flexible chain consisting of tightly joined
chain or strand. diagonal segments.
Bangle bracelet—A rigid, sometimes hinged, bracelet that Openwork—A design with open areas that allow the
slips over the wrist. passage of light, sometimes through gems.
Box chain—A chain consisting of angular links joined by
Pendant—An ornament or gem suspended from a strand,
solid metal squares.
band, or chain.
Brooch (pin)—Jewelry piece that attaches to a garment,
often by a hinged pin and catch. Post—The part of an earring that passes through a pierced
earlobe.
Butterfly clutch—A fitting that slips onto the back of a post
to hold an earring in place. Rope chain—Solid or hollow chain that usually has oval
links and resembles a woven rope.
Charm bracelet—A bracelet consisting of one or more
small attached ornaments. Screwback—A device that secures an earring to an earlobe
Choker—A short, fairly tight-fitting necklace that hugs the with a flat-ended screw.
throat. Slide—A pendant that attaches to a chain without a bail.
Collar—A wide necklace worn above the collarbone.
Station necklace—A necklace with gems, cultured pearls,
Cuff bracelet—A C-shaped band that fits over the wrist or arm. or beads positioned at regular intervals.
Curb link chain—Chain style with flattened oval links. Stickpin—A long, straight pin with an ornamental top.
Drop earring—An earring with one or more dangling
ornaments. Strand—A simple necklace typically composed of pearls
or beads.
Earring jacket—A detachable ornament that surrounds or
otherwise adorns a stud earring. Stud earring—An earring with a small ornament or gem on
a post, designed to nestle against the earlobe.
Enhancer—A removable pendant designed to accent a
strand of beads or cultured pearls. Tag—Restatement of a benefit, posed as a question and
designed to elicit agreement.
Figaro chain—Type of curb link chain with a repeating
pattern of long and short links. Tennis bracelet—A flexible bracelet set with a line of small
Filigree—A design made with thin, intricately interlaced wire. matched gems, typically diamonds.
Hoop earring—A dangling, circular earring made from Tie tack—A short, ornamental pin that pierces and
solid wire or tubing. decorates a man’s tie.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins
n What factors have influenced earring design and use over the years?
n What are the two types of value you can use in a sales presentation?
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Designer, Branded, Custom, 4
and Estate Jewelry
Designer, Branded, and Custom Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Designer Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Store and Designer Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Custom Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
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Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 4. With the knowledge you gain
from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Display a general knowledge of designer and branded jewelry.
• Identify the characteristics of jewelry from different style periods.
• Promote the benefits of collecting estate jewelry to your customers.
• Build on the romance of a piece to create desire for it.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
“So, were you married in May?” Jack asked. Since that was the current
month, he felt pretty safe with the guess.
“Yes,” Jerry replied. “It was a gorgeous spring day. We were married
outdoors in a park, flowers all over the place. It was nice, birds singing
and everything.”
“Do you think Michelle remembers that?” Jack asked.
“She sure does,” Jerry replied. “If I don’t buy her flowers every May, she
makes me cook my own supper.”
“Well,” Jack said, “it looks as if we need a floral theme. I just got some
baroque freshwater pearls in a week ago. Let’s take a look and see if there’s
something we can use.”
“What’s baroque?” Jerry asked.
“Oh, I’m sorry,” Jack quickly replied, “Baroque is a pearl shape. It means
it’s not symmetrical. Here, I’ll show you.”
The two men looked through Jack’s stock of loose cultured pearls. Jack
separated four from the rest, arranged them on his pad, and started to sketch.
“How about this, Jerry,” Jack said. “If we turn the three pinkish ones like
this and the purplish one like this, frame them in gold, and add colored
stones here and here as accents, we can make the assembly look like a
hummingbird drawing nectar from a flower blossom.”
“That’s fantastic!” Jerry exclaimed.
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Tino Hammid/GIA
This sparkling platinum and diamond necklace from the 1920s is by Cartier. It’s set with
25 substantial old-mine-cut diamonds.
“Now we need a background for it,” he said. “Our bench jeweler is very
good. He can make a gold leaf like this as a base.” Jack sketched a leaf
shape around and behind the figures he had already drawn.
“That’s great! I love it!” Jerry exclaimed. “And, even better, I know
Michelle will love it. Have your guy make it. I don’t care what it costs.
It’s the only 25th anniversary we’ll ever have.” Jerry paused a moment,
then asked, “You’re not going to empty my wallet for this, are you, Jack?”
“Don’t worry, Jerry,” Jack replied. “The price will be reasonable. I can call
Tino Hammid/GIA
you tomorrow after I talk with our bench jeweler.”
This Cartier stamp appears on the clasp
“That’s good,” Jerry said as he extended his hand and shook Jack’s. “And of the same necklace. A mark from a
Jack, thanks.” Jerry left the store beaming. Jack had saved the day. jewelry house of Cartier’s stature
significantly increases the value and
desirability of a piece like this.
Designer, Branded, and Custom Jewelry
n How are designer and branded jewelry related?
n What’s one way to stimulate sales of designer jewelry?
n How is custom jewelry typically made?
Jewelry that sets itself apart from the mainstream can have a strong psycho-
logical appeal for consumers. Jewelry that carries the prestige of a familiar
and respected name, for example, is more likely to sell to a customer who
values that connection. Other customers are attracted to jewelry that
stands out as artistic or unusual. Still others prefer to have a hand in the
design of their own uniquely personal jewelry.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Robert Weldon/GIA
This unique necklace blends the
geometry of handcrafted 22-karat yellow
gold mountings with the natural crystal
shapes of uncut aquamarine. The
Brazilian designer calls this piece the
“Arara Azul” necklace. The name is
Portuguese for Blue Macaw.
Tino Hammid/GIA
Design house—A jewelry retailer that Along with Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels is another highly regarded jewelry design house.
caters to upscale clients, offering This 1950s suite features a leaf motif in blue sapphire, diamonds, and platinum. The
high-end jewelry often designed by suite includes a necklace, dress clips, a bracelet, and a watch.
well-known jewelry artists.
Designer jewelry—Jewelry promoted In Romeo and Juliet, Shakespeare asked, “What’s in a name?” When it
as the creation of a particular designer. comes to luxury goods, the answer is, “Plenty.” Great design houses like
Cartier have been around since the late nineteenth century. Brilliant
Branded jewelry—Jewelry identified jewelry artists have been creating unique designer jewelry for decades.
by its manufacturer, design house, or The jewelry is often branded—labeled with the name of its manufacturer,
designer. design house, or designer—for a growing contemporary market.
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Tino Hammid/GIA
Jean Schlumberger designed jewelry for
Tiffany & Co. from the 1950s onward and
was one of only four jewelers allowed by
Tiffany to sign his work. His clientele
included J.F. Kennedy, the Duchess of
Windsor, Greta Garbo, and Audrey Hepburn.
This anemone brooch is platinum and
gold with sapphires and diamonds.
Designer Jewelry
Manufacturers of fine china, high-fashion clothing, and other luxury items
have long known the power of a name to create desire. Think of Wedgwood KEY
or Limoges for china and Armani, Dior, or Ralph Lauren for apparel. CONCEPTS
Because they inspire trust and loyalty, these brands almost sell themselves. Branded jewelry helps jewelry retailers
By the 1980s, designer jewelry had become very popular—and not just set themselves apart from their
for an elite group of wealthy connoisseurs. Women flooding into the work competitors.
force spent a portion of their income on jewelry. Perhaps because women
also bought designer apparel, the demand soared for fashionable jewelry
styles they could use to accessorize their stylish clothing. In response,
manufacturers offered coordinated designer jewelry collections.
At first, some retailers were a little reluctant to accept the idea of branded
jewelry. For one thing, they weren’t sure they wanted to set aside valuable
display space to promote a single collection. Another concern was that
designer jewelry prices were based on the importance of the designer’s
name along with the cost of materials and labor. Retailers wondered if
customers would accept the higher prices.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Robert Weldon/GIA
Designer Marianne Hunter calls this piece Silk Shimmer in the Jewelry designer Marianne Hunter delivers a lecture on her art
Starlight. It reflects her distinctive style and features enamel, and technique. A presentation like this is a way for a designer to
chalcedony, pearl, boulder opal, amethyst beads, and gold. increase awareness of her jewelry and connect her personality
to her unique designs.
Also, many stores promoted and sold jewelry under their own brand
names. They felt that selling other brands might dilute the image of their
own store brands, which were more profitable because store-branded
jewelry lines were often copied from jewelry branded with nationally or
internationally prestigious names.
When customers kept buying the prestige brands, retailers gradually
accepted them into their inventories. Many jewelry retailers found that
this helped them set themselves apart from their competitors. In addition,
designers began marketing their jewelry directly to consumers, many by
opening their own retail stores. Consumers responded by asking for
designer jewelry by name. By the end of the 1990s, many jewelry retailers
were displaying designer collections.
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Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry
Hamilton Jewelers
These earrings are from Hamilton
Jewelers’ Bellini collection. They feature
richly textured gold mountings with
sparkling round brilliant-cut diamonds
against a black background.
This collection of ballet dancer pins is from Japanese jeweler Paljoue. They feature
carefully matched fire opal cabochons.
Valerie Power/GIA
Mikimoto is a strong brand that’s
considered by many consumers to be
synonymous with cultured pearls.
Kavita Madhavan
Branding and marketing are important Some designers create moderately
when creating a modern jewelry collection. priced jewelry that’s accessible to a wide
This brand emphasizes the art of inlay. The range of consumers. This company
cool colors of the gems match the natural draws from current fashion trends to
colors of nature. The company uses inlays produce contemporary collections using
extensively and manufactures its product sterling silver and colored gems.
in New Mexico, USA.
Some retail jewelry chains and their brands are synonymous. De Beers
sells only its own brand in retail locations around the world. Mikimoto
sells its brand exclusively in its own stores and licenses retailers in other
locations to sell the Mikimoto brand.
Designer and branded jewelry styles are widely available in today’s market.
In fact, many jewelry shoppers expect stores to offer branded jewelry. A
store that promotes branded jewelry can attract shoppers who are already
familiar with the brand name. Once there, those shoppers often become
regular customers.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Custom Jewelry
Custom jewelry—Jewelry made to Custom jewelry is designed and made according to customer specifications.
order according to the customer’s There are two basic types of custom jewelry. The less common type is
specifications. completely handmade. As you saw in Assignment 1, to be called “handmade”
or “hand fabricated,” a jewelry piece must contain no manufactured
components and be created entirely by hand or with hand tools.
The second, more common, type of custom jewelry is assembled from
KEY already existing small jewelry components, called findings. A jeweler might
CONCEPTS join a head to a mounting, apply a texture, and set a gem selected by the
Custom jewelry can be handmade or customer. The simplest findings consist of a head that’s already attached
assembled from manufactured findings. to the mounting. The jeweler simply sets the gem and gives the creation
a final polish. A variation on this occurs when a jeweler customizes an
existing piece to give it a new look.
Whether handmade, assembled from manufactured findings, or created
by customizing an existing piece, custom jewelry offers a unique, made-
to-order adornment. For customers who want jewelry that expresses their
individuality, that’s a powerful benefit.
Some jewelry stores have full-time designers on staff to create custom
jewelry. But even without that option, you can share pictures from a
findings catalog or sketch your suggestions on the spot. With proper
training, you can even use a computer program to turn your customer’s
ideas into an on-screen representation of a custom jewelry item.
People who order custom jewelry experience the thrill of participating in
the creation of their own personal works of art. This added involvement
is the kind of experience your customers aren’t likely to forget the next
time they shop for jewelry.
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CAD/CAM
Eric Welch/GIA
At GIA’s Carlsbad California campus, students learn to use CAD/CAM software to produce their own
jewelry designs.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Doris Duke, the famous tobacco heiress,
once owned this 14-karat gold Cartier ring,
which dates from the 1920s. It features
an exquisite emerald-cut purple sapphire.
Eric Welch/GIA
This pair of ruby-set gold cufflinks is a Cartier creation. It dates from the 1920s and
once belonged to Britain’s Duke of Windsor.
Eric Welch/GIA
Estate jewelry—Any jewelry that was This enamel-decorated cigarette case was designed by Jean Schlumberger. It once
previously owned. belonged to Jackie Kennedy-Onassis.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Flamboyant celebrity pianist Liberace once owned this remarkable piece. It’s a polar
bear tooth embellished with gold.
Period and estate jewelry attract nostalgia buffs and cutting-edge consumers Reproduction jewelry—A modern
alike. Today’s jewelry designers and manufacturers can respond to this recreation of jewelry from a past era.
demand by creating reproduction jewelry that features design themes from
bygone days. There are beautiful reproduction jewelry pieces to satisfy every
budget. But these lovely adornments only pay homage to the real thing.
Jewelry truly from the past is a slice of history and a one-of-a-kind treasure.
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Robert Weldon/GIA
This dainty pearl and dyed black chalcedony Victorian mourning
pin has a floral motif set with seed pearls. Around the border are
36 natural pearls. Typical of mourning jewelry, the back has a
recessed compartment to hold the hair of the deceased loved one.
Victorian Jewelry
Victorian jewelry—A variety of styles There are a variety of styles in the category known as Victorian jewelry,
popular during the reign of England’s which was popular during the reign of England’s Queen Victoria (1837 to
Queen Victoria (1837-1901). 1901). Victorian styles typically include one or more of the following:
• Matching sets of ornate gemstone jewelry
• Gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, coral, amethyst, garnet,
turquoise, and tortoise shell
• Sentimental or romantic symbols
• Ornamental locks of human hair
• Mourning jewelry made of jet and other black materials
• Cameos, typically featuring a pale silhouette against a dark background
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Valerie Power/GIA
This Victorian watch fob opens to reveal
plaited locks of human hair. The stone
on its base is very dark, almost black.
These features are typical of mourning
jewelry that is a treasured keepsake for a
departed loved one.
Robert Weldon/GIA
During the Victorian period, there was renewed interest in jewelry from ages past. In
1890, Italian jeweler Castellani incorporated fifteenth century Renaissance cameos
into this suite, which also includes emerald, pearl, ruby, and enamel.
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Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry
Sylvia Bissonette
Like the designers of archeological and
revival styles during the Victorian period,
contemporary designers might incorporate
recovered artifacts into their jewelry.
This pearl necklace has a coin retrieved
from the Atocha galleon, which was
shipwrecked in 1622.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Mythical beasts are a recurring Art
Nouveau theme. This fanciful 18-karat
pin depicts a dragon or gryphon with a
blood-red garnet in its mouth.
Robert Weldon/GIA
The realism and curved, flowing lines of this flower brooch mark it as a piece in the
Art Nouveau style. The use of enamel and pearl is also characteristic.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Edwardian Jewelry
Between 1900 and 1915, during the reign of England’s King Edward VII,
the upper classes of Europe and the US wore jewelry as a way to
demonstrate their wealth. They favored lavish jewelry inspired by the
eighteenth-century French court and made of the finest, rarest, and most
costly gems and precious metals. Platinum was first extensively used in
jewelry during this period.
The jewelry style is known as Edwardian, but it’s sometimes called Garland
because it typically featured garlands of flowers tied with ribbons and
bows. The style can include these features:
• Pearls and diamonds
• Delicate platinum mountings
• Colored gemstones including ruby, sapphire, emerald, opal, and cat’s-
eye chrysoberyl
• Motifs like garlands, ribbons, bows, crescents, starbursts, Greek keys,
laurel wreaths, wings, feathers, crowns, oak leaves, swallows, and
butterflies
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Robert Weldon/GIA
Some of the most striking pieces from the French jewelry house Mauboussin—
established in 1827—are in the Art Deco style and date from the 1930s. Each carved
ruby bead in this necklace is secured to a frame by white metal posts capped with a
tiny diamond.
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Robert Weldon/GIA
Mauboussin also created this stunning Art Deco bracelet from about 1925. Square and baguette diamonds
mounted in white gold create a dazzling frame for rich green emeralds.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Retro Jewelry
The outbreak of World War II in 1939 ended the Art Deco period. Gems
were in short supply during the early 1940s, and platinum was reserved
for military use. The jewelry produced during and immediately after the
war used materials, such as gold and diamonds, that were still available
during these lean years. Jewelry from this period is known as Retro.
The Retro style rounded Art Deco’s sharp angles and muted its bold colors.
Its sculpted curves were sparingly set with small diamonds and rubies.
Some designs were set with large, but less expensive, gemstones like
citrine. Large motifs were crafted of thin gold sheets to conserve metal
while giving a substantial look. In the late 1940s, post-war prosperity led to
a more opulent use of colored stones and more feminine-looking designs.
Common themes and styles in Retro jewelry include:
• Floral and bow motifs in colored gems
• Animal figures of enameled gold and gems
• Jeweled brooches, lapel clips
Robert Weldon/GIA
Bows of polished yellow gold form a • Bold, sculpted curves of rose gold set with small diamonds and rubies
backdrop for a spray of blue and fancy
• Designs inspired by mechanical objects like bicycle chains, padlocks,
pink sapphires in this 1950s retro classic
by New York jewelers Trabert & Hoeffer- and tank treads
Mauboussin. It’s from their Reflections • Stylized natural motifs
series, featuring broad, smooth planes of
curving metal to contrast with layered • Gemstones like small diamonds, rubies (often lab-grown), and light-
rays of gemstones. colored sapphires
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Robert Weldon/GIA
This platinum ring’s reason for being is
the stunning 11.01-ct. oval Burmese
ruby. A gem of this caliber would appeal
to the wealthiest and most exclusive
clientele.
Robert Weldon/GIA
This necklace and ring ensemble is of the highest quality. A superb 24.72-ct.
Colombian emerald forms the centerpiece of the diamond-set platinum and gold
necklace, while the ring contains a 4.91-ct. emerald of equivalent quality.
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Eric Welch/GIA
This pair of ruby-set gold cufflinks is a Cartier creation. It dates from the 1920s and once belonged to
Britain’s Duke of Windsor.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Suppose you learned your customer is shopping for a birthday gift for her
sister. She told you her sister loves ornate things and that she dresses as if
she’s from a romantic past era. As a result, you’ve focused your customer’s
attention on a distinctive Art Nouveau necklace-and-earrings set.
She likes the pieces but seems hesitant to commit. You might say, “You
know your sister and what she likes, and you were instantly attracted to
these pieces. That was a purely instinctive attraction, which means you
saw a connection between your sister and this jewelry.”
You’ve justified your customer’s emotional reaction by telling her that her
attraction to the jewelry means it’s an appropriate gift. By tying your
customer, her sister, and the jewelry together, you begin to create desire.
Keep in mind that a jewelry purchase is mainly an emotional decision.
KEY That’s true whether your customer is buying for personal adornment or as
CONCEPTS a gift for someone else. The principal reason people buy jewelry is as a
A jewelry purchase is mainly an token of affection. When not buying for themselves, they buy out of
emotional decision. emotion involving loved ones.
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Robert Weldon/GIA
What could be more romantic than this
heart-shaped ruby? Pair this 8.01-ct.
ruby’s beauty with the gem’s long-
established lore and you’ll have a
winning sales presentation.
Michel Roudnitska
This marketing image for Tahitian cultured pearls evokes the romance of beautiful
tropical islands.
Jewelry lore can help you build an aura of rarity, romance, or mystery.
Every gemstone accumulates its own catalog of lore over the centuries. KEY
Using bits of lore to romance the stone can help you sell. For example, CONCEPTS
emeralds are said to foretell future events and diamonds are emblems of Always handle jewelry with respect.
fearlessness and invincibility. Rubies are mentioned four times in the
Bible, linked to attributes like beauty and wisdom. Details like these help Try to relate a jewelry piece’s qualities
create desire. to your customer’s motivation to buy.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
Valerie Power/GIA
As a sales associate, it’s important to handle the jewelry you show with the respect
that the piece deserves. This sales associate’s approach communicates the value of
the beautiful topaz ring to her client.
Each jewelry piece has special qualities that you can tie to your customer’s
motivation to buy. Paint a word picture that fulfills her motivation. Word
pictures can transform gem value factors into something intangible that
makes your customer passionate about buying. Try using vivid, colorful
terms to draw comparisons to beautiful places or things.
For example, suppose your customer is eyeing a strand of Tahitian cultured
pearls. She says she honeymooned in Tahiti years ago. She couldn’t afford
to buy a strand then, but now it would be nice to have a reminder of that
wonderful experience. By evoking romantic memories of lush green islands,
warm tropical breezes, and turquoise seas, your word pictures connect
Tahitian cultured pearls to those memories and help capture a past time.
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Robert Weldon/GIA
Just by looking at it, the beauty and rarity of this exceptional ruby necklace can excite
desire in a customer. It’s set with over 80 carats of the finest Burmese rubies and more
than 300 diamonds.
For example, in the scenario that opened this assignment, Jerry’s passion
was not excited by the beauty or uniqueness of the pieces Jack showed
him. Nor was it aroused by the pearls that eventually became part of the
piece he and Jack designed. Jerry was excited by the fact that he could
take part in designing a brooch that he knew Michelle would love. His
excitement came from the anticipation of being able to please his wife
on their 25th wedding anniversary. Jack tapped into that desire to make
the sale.
Although the four jewelry categories you learned about in this assign-
ment—designer, branded, custom, and estate jewelry—are not always
found in every jewelry store, they’re an important part of the industry. In
the next assignment, you’ll learn about watches, a mainstay for many retail
jewelers, and giftware, a category that draws customers and boosts profits
for many retailers. You’ll also learn about Sales Steps 5 and 6: Trial Close
and Close the Sale.
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Valerie Power/GIA
China’s importance as a jewelry-consuming nation is certain to continue for decades to come.
China has seen enormous social change in recent he wanted the best diamond ring money could buy.
years. Millions of young people have left rural areas After doing some research, he knew just what he
and moved to the cities, where they have taken wanted.
better-paying jobs and adopted lifestyles unknown to The salesman greeted Lixin as he entered the store:
most Chinese just a short time ago. Among the new
practices is the presentation of a diamond wedding “Good day, sir.”
ring to the bride by the groom on their wedding day. “Good day,” Lixin replied. “I’m here to look for a
There were many jewelry shops along East Nanjing wedding ring.”
Road in Shanghai, but Lixin chose Lao Fengxiang’s. “Certainly, sir. My name is Xiaomin. What may I
He remembered visiting there as a small boy and show you?” the salesperson asked.
watching his grandfather buy jewelry gifts for his
“I want a diamond solitaire in a platinum Tiffany
grandmother.
setting,” Lixin replied, then added, “I want a one-
Now, Lixin was a young man. He had left his village carat, D-Flawless round brilliant.”
to attend university and, after graduation, found a Xiaomin was surprised that the young man was so
good job with a Shanghai publishing company. The well prepared. He also doubted Lixin could afford
city looked nothing like the Shanghai of his youth. the diamond ring he was describing, but didn’t want
But the Lao Fengxiang Jewelry Company store was to offend his customer, so he tried not to show it.
still in the same place, and Lixin felt as if he was
honoring a family tradition by shopping there. “I can show you a loose diamond and a setting,”
Xiaomin said. “If you like them, I can have the
This time, he was shopping for a diamond wedding diamond mounted into the setting and ready for you
ring. Jiamei had accepted his marriage proposal and later today.”
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Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry
can mount the diamond and have it ready for you today After a long history as a British colony, Hong Kong
in a presentation box for 241,000 yuan.” reverted to mainland China. Global brands like Swarovski
see Hong Kong as an ideal opening for expansion into
The shock registered on Lixin’s face, and for the first time the rest of China.
since he entered the store, his air of confidence disappeared.
Apparently, he had researched everything about diamonds
except their prices.
Lixin had to change course quickly. He wanted to buy a
wedding ring for Jiamei, but he didn’t want to embarrass
himself any further. Xiaomin instantly recognized the
dilemma.
“Perhaps I can offer you something a little less costly?”
Xiaomin offered gently. “I can show you a somewhat
smaller diamond.”
“Yes, let’s try that,” Lixin replied, sounding greatly relieved.
About 15 minutes later, Lixin left Lao Fengxiang’s with a
0.24-ct., J-color, SI2 round brilliant diamond, bezel-set in
a platinum band. He was happy with his purchase and Valerie Power/GIA
would proudly present it to Jiamei on their wedding day. Hong Kong’s jewelry stores provide a glimpse into the
Xiaomin had made a good sale and was certain Lixin and cosmopolitan choices awaiting jewelry consumers on
Jiamei would return to buy again. the mainland.
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Jewelry Essentials 4
KEY
CONCEPTS
Branded jewelry helps jewelry retailers set themselves apart You create desire for a jewelry purchase by building on your
from their competitors. customer’s interest and enthusiasm.
Designer jewelry collections exist for almost any budget. A jewelry purchase is mainly an emotional decision.
Custom jewelry can be handmade or assembled from Always handle jewelry with respect.
manufactured findings.
Try to relate a jewelry piece’s qualities to your customer’s
Estate jewelry is an important part of today’s market. motivation to buy.
Auction catalogs are great resources for information on
estate jewelry.
Key Terms
Antique jewelry—Jewelry that’s at least 100 years old. Designer jewelry—Jewelry promoted as the creation of a
particular designer.
Art Deco jewelry—A style prominent in the 1920s and
1930s that features geometric patterns and abstract Edwardian (Garland) jewelry—Jewelry fashionable
designs in contrasting primary colors. among upper classes in Europe and the US (1900-1915)
that showcased high-quality gems and precious metals.
Art Nouveau jewelry—Jewelry inspired by a decorative
arts movement (1890-1914) and characterized by free- Estate jewelry—Any jewelry that was previously owned.
flowing lines and natural motifs. Period jewelry—Jewelry from a recognized time period.
Branded jewelry—Jewelry identified by its manufacturer, Reproduction jewelry—A modern recreation of jewelry
design house, or designer. from a past era.
Custom jewelry—Jewelry made to order according to the Retro jewelry—Jewelry of the 1940s, characterized by
customer’s specifications. sculptured curves in yellow or rose gold and floral, bow,
and mechanical motifs.
Design house—A jewelry retailer that caters to upscale
clients, offering high-end jewelry often designed by well- Victorian jewelry—A variety of styles popular during the
known jewelry artists. reign of England’s Queen Victoria (1837-1901).
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Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry
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Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Today’s Watch Market. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Market Segments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
How Watches Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Mechanical Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Quartz Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Specialty Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Selling Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Beyond Timekeeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Giftware. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Specializing in Giftware Sales. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Giftware for the Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Collectibles and Personal Gifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Sales Steps 5 & 6—Trial Close and Close the Sale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
The Trial Close . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Trying an Add-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Objections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Close the Sale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Initiating the Close . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
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Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 5. With the knowledge you gain
from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Demonstrate knowledge about the inner workings and operation of a
timepiece.
• Identify the types of watches found at different levels in the marketplace.
• Display an understanding of the giftware items found in many jewelry stores.
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Valerie Power/GIA
For many consumers, a watch is much more than just a timekeeper. A high-end watch
can be a status symbol as well as a beautiful piece of jewelry. “Cellini” is a line of dress
watches from Rolex, a Swiss manufacturer.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Watchmaking goes back more than 500 years. Although the vast majority of watches contain battery-
operated quartz movements, skilled watchmakers are still in demand due to the growing sales of high-end
mechanical watches.
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Joseph turned to a cabinet behind the counter and brought out a cylindrical
object. It was about six inches tall and four inches in diameter. Its top
tilted forward, forming a round face with a fixture in the center that looked
like half a hoop.
“What is it?” Betty asked.
“It’s a watch winder,” Joseph replied. “When Bob isn’t wearing his new
watch, he can mount it on the winder and let battery or electrical power
wind it for him.”
“Oh, my goodness!” Betty almost squealed. “The physicist in Bob will
love this! Thank you! He’ll love the winder, to say nothing of this exquisite
watch.”
“Shall I gift wrap them both for you?” Joseph asked.
“Can you wrap them separately?” Betty asked. “I want to tease him a little.”
“Certainly,” Joseph replied. “I’d be happy to.”
Watches
n Where are the watch industry’s major commercial centers?
n What types of watches dominate the market?
n How does a watch keep time?
Watchmaking is a craft that goes back more than 500 years. The first
watches were made in Germany around 1500. As watches and manufac-
turing became more sophisticated, the young industry spread elsewhere
in Europe.
Geneva, Switzerland, has had a flourishing watchmaking industry almost
as long as Germany. Protestant theologian John Calvin and his followers
unintentionally fostered the industry in the mid-1500s by forbidding the
wearing of jewelry. To survive, jewelers in Geneva gradually turned to
making watches.
While Geneva’s citizens were good innovators, they also excelled at
adopting others’ innovations, and at commerce and banking. The combi-
nation led to a centuries-long Swiss prominence in watchmaking and in
international marketing of Swiss-made timepieces.
Today, the global watch industry is centered in Switzerland, Japan, Hong
Kong, and the United States. Many watch manufacturers conduct business
in these commercial centers, but most watches are manufactured in places
where labor costs are low. For example, Timex, a leading mass-market
watchmaker headquartered in the US, has manufacturing facilities in
locations that include the Philippines, India, Brazil, and China.
The Japan Clock and Watch Association estimates that 1.25 billion
watches were produced worldwide in 2005. Retail sales totaled about Eric Welch/GIA
$30 billion. Switzerland exported 25 million watches with a wholesale Zenith is a Swiss brand that dates back
value of about $9 billion. to 1865. As the watchmaking craft
advanced, fine pocket watches like this
A recent jewelry industry trade journal survey found that more than 90 one evolved into smaller and more
percent of independent US jewelers sell watches. About 3 million watches intricate styles designed to be worn on
are sold in the US, with retail sales totaling about $1.85 billion. the wrist.
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The introduction of the Swatch watch
reinvigorated the watch mass market.
Swatch watches come in dozens of
styles, most below US$250. The parent
company, called the Swatch Group, also
owns many upper-market brands.
Mass market watches are generally priced under $100. These are high- Digital watch—Timepiece with time
volume, low-price quartz watches made by companies like Timex, Swatch, indicated numerically, usually by a
Fossil, and Casio. liquid crystal display (LCD).
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Terri Weimer/GIA
Three quarters of Rolex buyers are men. The brand’s reputation for quality and
durability, along with its association with sports like diving, mountaineering, and
yachting, give it broad appeal to a wealthy male audience.
The middle market for watches includes prices between $100 and $700.
This level consists of widely distributed lines by Japanese and Swiss quartz
watch producers like Seiko, Citizen, Bulova, and Tissot.
The luxury market includes watches priced from $700, with prices
extending beyond $6,000 at the highest levels. Categories consist of
mechanical and quartz watches, and they’re usually produced in lower
quantities by Swiss watchmakers. This market segment includes brands
like Raymond Weil, Tag Heuer, and Rolex.
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Parts of a Watch
Barrel—Contains the mainspring and transmits
its energy.
Bezel—The stationary or rotating ring that
surrounds the watch dial and holds the crystal
in place.
Case—Container that protects the watch
movement from dust, dampness, and shocks. It
also might be used to provide the watch with its
own unique appearance.
Crown—The small knob on the outside of the
watch case that’s used to set the time and date
and other functions. On a manually wound
mechanical watch, the crown and its extensions
Eric Welch/GIA
also wind the mainspring.
This partially disassembled movement
Crystal—The transparent cover on a watch dial. displays the complexity of a high-end
It can be made of acrylic plastic, glass, or lab- mechanical watch.
grown sapphire. A lab-grown sapphire crystal is
highly resistant to scratching or shattering.
Main plate—Base on which all the other parts
of a watch movement are mounted.
Jewels—Natural or lab-grown gem To power the watch, the wearer manually or automatically winds the
materials used as bearings to reduce mainspring. As the spring unwinds, it drives the gears and other parts that
friction between watch parts. keep time and turn the hands. Today, most mechanical watches are wound
by an automated mechanism that oscillates as the wearer moves.
Escape wheel—Device that works As gears turn, they produce friction. If that friction goes unchecked, it will
with the escapement lever to assist eventually undermine the proper operation of the movement. To reduce
the timekeeping function of a friction, increase accuracy, and prolong a watch’s life, watchmakers install
mechanical watch. hard jewels, such as corundum, that act as bearings.
The number of jewels varies, but a “17-jewel movement” is fairly standard.
Escapement lever—Device in a
It means the watch movement contains 17 friction-reducing jewels. Since
mechanical watch that controls the
the early 1900s virtually all jewels used in watches have been lab-grown.
motion of the balance and escape
wheels and, therefore, the rotation of A mechanical watch also needs a regulating system to run steadily and
the hands. keep accurate time. The regulating system steadies the unwinding of the
mainspring. Without it, the gears would turn very fast when the mainspring
Balance spring—A hair-thin, spiral is tightly wound and slow down as the spring uncoils. A watch’s regulating
spring that’s coupled to the balance system consists of a double-ended escape wheel, an escapement lever, a
wheel to make it rock back and forth. balance spring, and a balance wheel.
As the mainspring unwinds, it powers an interaction between the escape
Balance wheel—The watch part that wheel and the escapement lever. The wheel pushes one end of the lever,
rocks back and forth to divide time causing the other end to turn the balance wheel in one direction. The
into equal parts. balance spring then turns the balance wheel back in the other direction.
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This Japanese-made quartz movement is sized for the smaller dimensions of a lady’s
watch.
Quartz Watches
Button (cell) battery—A tiny, disc- Most quartz movements are powered by electricity from a tiny, disk-
shaped battery used to power a shaped battery called a button or cell battery. Some might be powered
quartz-movement watch. by electrical energy converted from solar power. Whatever its source, the
electric current causes a lab-grown crystal to vibrate at a constant high
frequency: 32,768 times per second. This consistent vibration makes a
quartz watch highly accurate.
The vibrating electrical impulses pass through a motor that converts elec-
trical energy to mechanical energy. The mechanical energy drives the gears
and other parts that turn the hands. In a digital quartz watch, the electrical
impulses power a liquid crystal display that indicates the time of day.
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Specialty Watches
Some watches do more than just tell time. A chronograph, for example, Chronograph—Timepiece with two
has a stopwatch function. Wearers can measure elapsed time by using independent systems that tell the
push-buttons on the case. time of day and measure brief time
intervals.
Don’t confuse a chronograph with a chronometer. Literally, any watch is
a chronometer because it measures time. But the trade applies the word Chronometer—A Swiss-made watch
“chronometer” to Swiss-made watches that permanently display seconds that meets very high accuracy
and pass seven stringent accuracy tests certified by Contrôle Officiel standards.
Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), a standards and testing organization in
Switzerland.
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Watches can make up a substantial portion of a jewelry store’s sales. The variety of chronograph watches on display suggests this
store serves a wealthy male clientele.
Watches range from very simple, with only minute and hour hands, to
very complex. A chronograph with several added features can be
challenging for a first-time wearer. As a sales associate, you have to know
each watch’s features, how they work, and how to demonstrate them to
a customer. You have to instill confidence to make sales. Showing sincere
interest and passion isn’t only a plus, it’s a necessity.
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This Omega watch is a limited edition
re-issue of a classic design from 1915.
Named the “Petrograd” watch in honor
of the Russian and Eastern European Valerie Power/GIA
markets where it was popular, it’s one of
With proper care and servicing, high-quality mechanical watches can last for
a series of classic designs reintroduced
generations. As a result, there’s a very strong resale market for them.
by the watchmaker and in high demand
with collectors.
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Beyond Timekeeping
For many consumers, watches aren’t just for telling time. They can be
jewelry, status symbols, or collectible works of art, engineering, or minia-
turization. A woman wearing an elegant evening gown and a delicate,
diamond-studded wristwatch is probably more interested in making a
fashion statement than knowing what time it is. For many men, a high-
end watch is the only jewelry they wear. And that expensive watch is often
as much a status symbol as a timepiece.
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Jewelry Essentials 5
It’s a Fake!
The watch the street vendor urges on you has a remarkably low price. Its face might
say Chopard, Rolex, or Tag Heuer, it might look like the real thing, and it might even
keep accurate time, but it’s a fake.
The fakes might be called copies, replicas, or knock-off watches. They’re for sale on the
streets and in some retail stores in many cities around the world. They’re also available
through what seems like countless Web sites.
They look authentic on the outside, but inside they’re poorly made using inferior parts.
Some even have glued-on faces, so the hands never move! Most, if not all, have battery-
powered quartz movements. Some will work reasonably well, while others will have
failed by the next time you turn your wrist to check the time.
Most fake watches are counterfeits and violate copyright laws. This makes them illegal
to sell. No reputable jeweler sells watch fakes.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Unlike watches or fine jewelry, a comprehensive giftware display requires a significant amount of space.
Giftware
n What must jewelers consider before deciding to carry giftware?
n What factors apply to specializing in giftware sales?
n What are some giftware categories and items?
Some customers buy giftware for themselves, but most giftware purchases
are for important events like weddings and births. About 25 percent of
independent US jewelers sell giftware. Among jewelers’ considerations
when deciding if they want to carry giftware is whether they have enough
display and inventory space. Generally, gift lines take more display space
than jewelry lines. And, since many gift items must be well-packaged to
ensure their safety, they require more inventory space.
If jewelers find they have enough room for giftware, they must decide if
it’s profitable and appealing enough to justify carrying it. Most jewelers KEY
find that jewelry generates more profit per amount of display space than CONCEPTS
giftware. But they often find that giftware broadens a store’s appeal, draws
customers who otherwise would not have come in, and produces cross- Giftware can attract customers who
sales. That is, jewelry buyers purchase giftware, and giftware buyers might also buy jewelry and can generate
purchase jewelry. additional sales to jewelry buyers.
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Hollowware includes items like candlesticks, napkin rings, platters, tea services, and
condiment sets. The finest are handmade by skilled artisans from sterling silver.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Although fine china and stemware are
popular gifts, it’s impossible for a jeweler
to stock every variation. Treat the stock
on display as a representation of what’s
available. It’s best to have a specialist on
staff with the knowledge to special order
items suited to a client’s needs.
Eric Welch/GIA
Crystal is a very popular giftware category. Whatever the occasion, the recipients will
enjoy the beauty and feel of these substantial tumblers for years to come.
Crystal—Tableware and ornamental Crystal is a category of tableware and ornamental objects made of fine-
objects made of fine-quality, brilliant quality, brilliant glass. The glass is often called lead crystal because it’s
glass. between 18 and 38 percent lead oxide. Crystal is a broad and popular
category for jewelry stores that carry giftware. You’ll see candlesticks and
Hollowware—Metal tableware like cups, vases, platters, bowls, pitchers, ice buckets, decanters, trays, glasses,
bowls, pitchers, trays, and teapots stemware (wine or champagne glasses), decorative figurines, art glass, and
made of sterling silver, silver plate, or other utilitarian and ornamental objects. Many crystal pieces are engraved.
pewter.
Hollowware is metal tableware like bowls, pitchers, trays, and teapots, made
China—Porcelain or similar high- of sterling silver, silver plate, or pewter. The hollowware most often found
quality translucent or white ceramic in high-end jewelry stores is cast in sterling silver by skilled artisans called
material often used to make silversmiths. Candlesticks, condiment sets (containers for food seasonings),
tableware. and tankards (large mugs) are popular hollowware pieces. Starting with
sheets of sterling silver, craftsmen make the very best items by hand.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Although not exclusively aimed at men,
writing instruments like this pair of
sterling silver pens by Italian manufacturer
Montegrappa are considered mens’
furnishings.
Eric Welch/GIA
These collectible crystal fish by Lalique draw inspiration from the firm’s Art Nouveau
period. They’re made in many bright colors, with acid-etched relief detail.
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Men’s furnishings—Articles or Men’s furnishings are articles or accessories used or worn by men. While
accessories used or worn by men. there are few items in a jewelry store that are intended solely for men,
the men’s furnishings category includes nearly all of them.
You might find these men’s giftware items in a jewelry store: belt buckles,
cigarette lighters and cases, cuff links, wallets, business-card cases, key
rings and chains, pens, pencils, and sets, penknives, money clips, humidors
(for storing cigars), and fragrances.
Baby items are another important giftware category. Jewelry store giftware
departments might carry hair brushes, porcelain and bone-china cups and
place settings, sterling silver rattles, spoons and teething rings, and earth-
enware piggy and bunny banks.
Another giftware category is so broad that it can only be called “miscel-
laneous.” It includes silk scarves, leather goods like belts, purses, wallets
and briefcases, key rings and chains, barware, fragrances, picture frames,
hanging ornaments, decorative eggs, jewelry boxes and cases, and many
other items. One prestigious retail jewelry chain even offers a sterling-silver
train—a steam engine followed by several passenger cars and a caboose.
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This giftware selection includes earthenware vases, photo frames, and decorative giftware with colorful enamel accents.
True enameling began as early as the sixth century BC in the area around the
Mediterranean Sea. This Greek-style enamelwork prevailed for 10 centuries.
Celtic enameling developed separately. It spread through Western Europe
and the British Isles as the main influence until the third century AD. The
popularity of Byzantine religious enamels, the greatest flowering of the
art, peaked in the tenth century.
France became the center of enameling in the twelfth century, culminating
in Limoges painted enamels in the 1600s. Industrial methods and uses arose
in the 1750s and replaced fine handcrafted enamels by the late 1800s.
Since then, there have been occasional revivals like the astonishing
creations of Fabergé in pre-Revolutionary Russia, the naturalistic designs
of Art Nouveau, and some Art Deco work. But today, this ancient art is
rarely practiced.
Modern Chinese enameling began after contact with the West in the
fourteenth century. It spread to Korea, Japan, and India, where early Jaipur
enamelists were famed for brilliant ruby reds. In China, the art peaked in
the eighteenth century. After that, factory production for Western markets
led to lower-quality goods. Oriental designs have revitalized the art in the
West many times since 1850.
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Enameling Basics
Enameling begins with glass that’s specially made for its desirable
properties. The glass is ground to a powder, washed, applied to a backing
in a design, sprayed with a wet binding agent, and allowed to dry. Then
it’s fired in a kiln to fuse it.
After cooling and acid cleaning, the process is repeated until the details
of the piece are complete. Harder, high-heat enamels go on first, then
softer ones. Fire-polishing or finer mechanical polishing is the last step.
Eric Welch/GIA
Enamel backings are usually metal. Pure gold and silver backings work
This Victorian enamel piece was produced
by the same process. The blue enamel best. Pure copper also works as a backing and so does iron, but mostly
provides a striking backdrop for the for pots and pans. Enamels can be decorated with metallic foil or wire,
delicate gold design. or with tiny accents stamped from thin sheets of fine gold or silver.
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Attractive enamel colors combine to
achieve a delicate effect in this heart-
shaped gold flower brooch.
Enameling Techniques
There are many different enamel techniques, but all are variations of a
few basic types. First are those where areas of color are separated by thin
metal strips. These favor geometric or stylized designs. Cloisonné is the
oldest, with dividing strips inlaid or soldered to the backing.
Plique-à-jour is a see-through enamel like a stained glass window. To
create it, the artist uses a temporary backing during firing, then removes
the backing to complete the piece.
In champlevé, cells that contain the enamel are cut or etched into the
metal. In basse-taille, the metal background is engraved to show a raised
design under the enamel. Taille d’epargné has fine, even-depth engraved
lines filled with opaque enamel. The background in guilloche is engraved
or tooled in fine geometric motifs, creating a reflective sheen.
Some enamels are painted, with no metal between colors. These allow
more fluid, lifelike images—even portraits. The softer enamels are often
fired in several layers, from opaque to transparent. En plein features a
plain, smooth enameled surface, usually solid-colored. Grisaille is a subtle
enamel painted in tones of black and gray, or purple, or brown. Designs
scratched through lighter top layers show the dark tone of the base layer.
En resille has a backing of engraved glass or rock crystal, lined with gold
and enameled. Niello is a black metallic inlay technique, effective in silver.
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Calypso blue enamel with a hand
engraved texture complements the
colors of a Tahitian cultured pearl in this
contemporary 18-karat yellow gold ring.
Enameling Today
Today, technical advances and modern electric kilns provide a wide range
of commercially available colors and fusing temperatures. But enameling
suffers from mass production. Metal backings are often machine-stamped,
punched, engine-turned, or etched. Organic lacquers, more flexible but
less durable, are used instead of true glass. Decal transfer designs are
common.
Enameling comes back into style periodically, but fine modern enameling
is rare. Enameled antiques still hold their value. To judge enameled pieces,
observe the colors, design, metalwork, and polish and check for cracks
and chips.
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When your customer starts contemplating a purchase, it’s time to attempt a trial close.
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Trying an Add-On
You might try to combine an add-on with the trial close. For example:
“How about a beautiful pair of matching earrings to go with your
necklace?” With this question, you’ve tied an additional item to the main
purchase, and you’ve established the assumption your customer already owns
the main piece. You’ve created a positive, tempting buying atmosphere.
Your customer might respond by buying the main piece or the main piece
with the add-on, she might raise an objection about the main item, or she
might refuse altogether. She might refuse the main piece regardless of
which trial close you use, so you really have nothing to lose by trying an
add-on. Also remember that there’s more profit in add-on sales. Overhead
costs come out of the first sale, so any sales beyond that mean greater
financial gain for you and your store.
Objections
Instead of responding to the trial close by committing to buy, your
customer might raise an objection. When that happens, you might have
to back up a step or two and return to Building Value or Creating Desire,
or both. Your product knowledge will probably be useful. Respond to any
objections immediately. Give direct answers to your customer’s questions.
If you don’t, she might suspect you’re stalling or trying to be deceptive.
Hesitation or objections aren’t necessarily refusals. Customers often want
to be assured that they’ve made the right choice and that they’re getting
good value for their money. It’s your job to provide that assurance.
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Eric Welch/GIA
A customer’s hesitation or objection might center on price, or she might simply need
to be reassured about the piece’s quality or value.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Well designed displays can help you with add-on sales. The earrings and pendants complement the necklaces in this display.
Also, the well designed display elements enable presentation of many necklaces in a neat, coordinated fashion.
There’s an art to displaying jewelry and other merchan- tags. Even if a customer already owns a nice pearl
dise. How you group and present jewelry items can strand, she might be captivated by a coordinating
have a big effect on sales. bracelet, pair of earrings, or matching ring.
Picture a crowded jewelry case with a confusing This also applies on a larger scale. Put yourself in a
array of mismatched items that make it hard for a customer’s shoes as you stand in your store’s entrance.
client to know where to look or even what the display What do you see first? What catches your eye? Check
is trying to present. In addition, some pieces have out your store and see if your displays encourage
fingerprints on them, and many store inventory tags casual browsing.
are showing. Perhaps even the glass countertop looks
The way customers move through a store and the route
smeared and messy.
they might follow is called traffic flow. Research shows
many customers turn to the right as they enter a store.
Contrast that unattractive scenario with a well laid
In a well designed jewelry store, every display should
out, freshly cleaned case where jewelry items are
tell a story and communicate the store’s own “brand.”
displayed in a coordinated fashion on specially
designed display elements. Many jewelry stores have a professional window
dresser or a dedicated staff member responsible for
A focal point in the display takes your eye to a beautiful the store’s window displays. The same stores might
pearl necklace. Surrounding the necklace are matching assign individual work stations or jewelry display
earrings, bracelets, pendants, and rings. The pieces are cases to particular sales associates.
attractively arranged, leading your eye past each group
of items in turn. The case appears uncluttered and Every display case can be a tool to help increase
clean, with no fingerprints and no visible inventory sales. Make a plan before you lay out the merchandise
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Many jewelry stores make individual sales associates
responsible for specific display cases. This promotes
involvement and allows an associate to become an expert
in certain product lines.
Eric Welch/GIA
Besides the standard display elements, stores often introduce
seasonal themes to their window presentations to keep them
fresh. This store combined the warm colors of fall with
appropriate giftware for a winning display.
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If your customer asks, “How much is the tax on this item?” or “What’s
your policy on returns?” you know she has buying on her mind. If a couple
mulling over an expensive jewelry purchase touch each other or exchange
loving looks or words, they are leaning toward buying. You have to be
sensitive to these buying signals and move to close the sale. Be respectful,
though—don’t pounce.
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Watches and Giftware
KEY
CONCEPTS
Quartz watches dominate today’s watch market. Use subtle questions to test your customer’s readiness to buy.
The term “water resistant” has replaced the improper term A price objection is usually a question of value.
“waterproof.”
Positive word of mouth is a powerful advertising tool.
It’s important to know each watch’s features and how they
work, so you can demonstrate them to your customers. Most customers won’t tell you when they’re ready to buy, so
you usually have to initiate the close.
Giftware can attract customers who might also buy jewelry
and can generate additional sales to jewelry buyers.
Key Terms
Analog watch—Timepiece with time of day and passage Escapement lever—Device in a mechanical watch that
of time indicated by pointed devices called hands. controls the motion of the balance and escape wheels
and, therefore, the rotation of the hands.
Balance spring—A hair-thin, spiral spring that’s coupled
to the balance wheel to make it rock back and forth. Figurines—Small carved or molded figures, also called
statuettes.
Balance wheel—The watch part that rocks back and forth
to divide time into equal parts. Flatware—Knives, forks, and spoons used as utensils
when eating.
Button (cell) battery—A tiny, disc-shaped battery used to
power a quartz-movement watch. Hollowware—Metal tableware like bowls, pitchers, trays,
and teapots made of sterling silver, silver plate, or pewter.
China—Porcelain or other high-quality translucent or
white ceramic material, often used to make tableware. Jewels—Natural or lab-grown gem materials used as
bearings to reduce friction between watch parts.
Chronograph—Timepiece with two independent systems
Mainspring—A strong spring that powers the watch as it
that tell the time of day and measure brief time intervals.
unwinds.
Chronometer—A Swiss-made watch that meets very high
Mechanical watch—Timepiece powered by manual or
accuracy standards.
automatic winding.
Crystal—Tableware and ornamental objects made of fine- Men’s furnishings—Articles or accessories used or worn
quality, brilliant glass. by men.
Desk accessories—Items found on an office or home desk. Movement—The inner mechanism of a watch.
Digital watch—Timepiece with time indicated Quartz watch—Timepiece powered by a battery.
numerically, usually by a liquid crystal display (LCD).
Regulating system—A group of devices that steady the
Earthenware—Tableware, pottery, and decorative objects mainspring’s unwinding and perform the timekeeping
made of a variety of materials, including ceramics and clay. function.
Escape wheel—Device that works with the escapement lever Water resistant—Describes a watch with the ability to
to assist the timekeeping function of a mechanical watch. prevent water penetration through its case.
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Sales Step 7—Follow Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Avoiding Regrets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Earning Repeat Sales. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Personalized Attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
175
Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 6. With the knowledge you gain
from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Recognize the importance of product knowledge to quality customer
service.
• Advise customers about the care and cleaning of their jewelry purchases.
• Display an understanding of a variety of jewelry repair procedures.
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iStockphoto
A couple searching for that perfect engagement ring offers you one of your best jewelry sales opportunities.
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Jewelry Essentials 6
iStockphoto
With the right guidance from you, there’s plenty of potential for
add-on sales once they’ve chosen the perfect ring.
iStockphoto iStockphoto
One of the key steps to take when selling to a couple is to get It’s very rewarding to connect a couple to the jewelry piece that
them to communicate with you and with each other. Once you symbolizes their commitment to one another.
know what they want, you can guide them to the choice that’s
right for them.
“You’ve made a good choice,” Ian confirmed. “The manufacturer is
European. They make some of the finest wedding sets available. By the
way, have you selected gifts for the wedding party?”
Lyn and Brad turned and looked at each other blankly.
“Uh-oh,” they said in unison.
“Wow,” Brad said, embarrassed. “Thanks for the reminder! What would
you suggest, Ian?”
“Well, Brad,” Ian replied, “for your best man and ushers, we have some
very nice engraved pen-and-pencil sets. Would you like to see them?”
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Brad replied that he would, and Ian showed him the store’s selection. Brad
ordered a personally engraved set for his best man, and a pen for each of his
four ushers. Ian complimented Brad on his choice and then turned to Lyn.
“Lyn, what jewelry are you wearing during the ceremony?” Ian asked.
“A strand of natural pearls that’s been passed down from my great-grand-
mother,” Lyn replied.
“Natural pearls are extremely hard to find these days,” Ian said, “but I
have something that comes close.”
Ian showed Lyn and Brad a gold chain necklace with a single white pearl
pendant.
“This is a freshwater cultured pearl from China,” Ian said. “It grew in a
mollusk like your grandmother’s pearls did, but humans had a hand in
the process, too.”
“If these are for my bridesmaids,” Lyn asked, “what would I give my maid
of honor?”
In reply, Ian showed Lyn a similar necklace with three pearls. Her decision
was as quick as Brad’s had been about his gifts. She chose four single-
pearl necklaces and one trio necklace.
“Would you like to be listed in our client registry?” Ian asked. He went
on to explain, “It’s a way we stay in touch with preferred customers. We
can remind you about things like bringing your jewelry in for cleaning iStockphoto
and let you know when we have special sales and promotions.” Part of your job is to turn that initial
engagement ring sale into a longer term
They agreed and Ian recorded their contact information. Ian wrapped their commitment for your store.
purchases and told Brad he’d call when his engraved pens were ready for
pick-up. The couple left the store, happy and satisfied with their choices.
That evening, Ian made a follow-up phone call to Lyn and Brad. He made
a note to himself of their wedding date and when they were due back
from their honeymoon. The following day, he sent a congratulatory
wedding card. When the couple returned home, Ian called to ask about
the wedding, the wedding-party gifts, and their honeymoon. He told the
newlyweds about an upcoming sale and said he would be happy to help
them or any of their friends with their future jewelry needs.
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Eric Welch/GIA
After you’ve succeeded in closing the sale, it’s time to consider how you might follow
up with your customer.
The follow-up process starts as soon as you’ve closed the sale and before
KEY your customer leaves the store. Give her your business card, and invite
CONCEPTS her to contact you. Be sure your professional credentials are printed on
Your customers should see you as a gem your card along with your business phone number and email address.
and jewelry authority and professional Your customers should regard you as a gem and jewelry authority who is
eager to be a professional resource.
resource.
As you complete the sales process, record your customer’s contact and
other information in the store’s database or your personal customer file.
The information might include the customer’s name and address; home,
business, and cell phone numbers; email addresses; occupation; birthday;
anniversary date; ring size; gem preferences; store visit and purchase
records; and preferred payment method.
Of course, you should respect your customer’s privacy—some customers
might not want to reveal certain information. If your store has a policy
regarding compiling customer information, be sure to follow it.
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iStockphoto
Many customers feel a bit of buyer’s remorse, often centered on price and value. Make
sure you follow up to reassure your client about her purchase.
Avoiding Regrets
After spending money, many customers experience a feeling of guilt or Buyer’s remorse—A feeling of guilt or
regret called buyer’s remorse. It occurs especially when a salesperson regret about having spent money,
pushes too hard and forces a sale of something the customer doesn’t need especially on a major purchase.
or want. When reality strikes, the customer often returns the item. You can
avoid that kind of return by listening to your customers, serving their
needs, and never forcing a sale.
Be aware of the possibility of buyer’s remorse, and act to alleviate it during
and after your sales presentation. During the presentation, reinforce every
positive comment your customer makes about the pieces you demonstrate.
For example, “Yes, the best Colombian emeralds are the world standard
for color. This emerald represents the finest available. It’s an excellent
choice.” Or, “That’s correct. Most platinum is 90 or 95 percent pure. It
complements near-colorless diamonds very well. Platinum and diamond
rings are passed from mother to daughter for generations. I think you’ve
made a wise choice.”
On the evening after the sale or the following day, call your customer to
confirm the correctness of her purchase. Compliment her choice and
assure her of the piece’s value. About a week later, send her a handwritten
note or an email. For example, you might say, “That lovely sapphire
necklace you chose looks terrific on you. I think you’ll wear it with pride
for years to come.”
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Whether calling or writing, be sure to use “you” and “I.” Also use the
customer’s name. People relish personal approval, especially when they’ve
extended themselves financially and might be a little doubtful about having
made the right decision.
Following up with a phone call and thank-you note or email helps you
KEY accomplish several things. First, by relieving buyer’s remorse, you reduce
CONCEPTS the chance your customer will return the purchase. Next, you nourish a
Follow-up contacts can help establish trusting relationship between you and your customer that increases the
possibility that she will come back to your store—and to you—for future
trust between you and your customer.
purchases. Finally, you ensure your customer will speak favorably about
her purchase and recommend you and your store to others.
Above all, you have to know gems and jewelry. And since that world
constantly changes, you have to stay current. Reading trade publications
and Web sites, and attending trade shows, are some of the ways to keep
informed.
You should also maintain regular contact with your clients. You can do
that by phone, mail, and email. Let them know when you have new
merchandise you think they’ll like. Remind them when it’s time to clean
a jewelry piece or to replace the battery in a watch. Inform your clients
of sales, promotions, and celebrations taking place in your store. Send
your best wishes for anniversaries and holidays, even whimsical, offbeat
occasions like St. Patrick’s Day or Groundhog Day.
Eric Welch/GIA
You gain a world of knowledge when you get to know your store’s inventory. The better
you know what’s in your store, the more prepared you’ll be to serve your customers.
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iStockphoto
Make sure you maintain regular contact with your clients so you can let them know
when your store has something new to offer. The more comfortable they feel coming
in your store, the greater your chances of present and future sales success.
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Valerie Power/GIA
Attending gem and jewelry trade shows like this one in Tucson, Arizona, is a great way to stay in touch with market developments.
Some sales associates have great success with personal newsletters. They
It’s always easier to sell to repeat and can be on paper, email, or both. Include your photo, your store’s logo and
referral customers than to new ones. location, and your phone number and email address.
It’s always easier to sell to repeat and referral customers than to new ones.
Don’t hesitate to ask your regular customers to refer their friends and
relatives to you. Increased sales and profits don’t come to you on their
own; you have to generate them.
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Personalized Attention
In today’s world, people are busier than ever with career and family,
leaving little or no time for anything but necessity shopping. Try accom-
modating busy clients by setting up appointments for them to shop in your
store. They can arrive at a specific time for a specific purpose, and you
devote your attention exclusively to them. Appointment shopping and the
additional personal attention it involves can pay off in bigger and more
frequent sales.
In the scenario that opened this assignment, Ian recognized that Lyn and
Brad had done their research, and had already decided which rings they
wanted to buy. He went along with their decision, making no effort to
sway them. He did, however, see and take the opportunity for very
significant add-on sales.
Then, taking advantage of the trust and goodwill he had created, Ian
entered Lyn and Brad’s information in his store’s customer database. That
evening, he followed up by calling to reassure the couple about their iStockphoto
purchases. The next day, Ian sent a congratulatory wedding card. When the Many people have a personal fitness
couple had returned from their honeymoon, Ian called again. After learning trainer at the gym. You can fill a similar
that everything had gone well, Ian told the couple about an upcoming role where fine jewelry is concerned by
sale and volunteered to help their friends with their jewelry needs. becoming a trusted, personal advisor for
your clients and guiding them to jewelry
By following a sound sales strategy, Ian gained two satisfied customers pieces that celebrate special moments in
and opened the possibility of finding several more. their lives.
iStockphoto
It might take some time to select a special piece for a cherished loved one. Make sure
you’re there to help your client pick just the right one.
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Jewelry Essentials 6
Oktay Ortakcioglu/iStockphoto
Once you’ve established successful relationships with your clients and they’ve had
positive experiences in your store, they’ll be very likely to refer friends and family to you.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Use your product knowledge wisely and
try to gauge your customer’s response to
the information you provide. To sell a
stone like this beautiful 43.52-ct. sapphire
from Sri Lanka, you can emphasize its
exquisite color, size, and rarity.
Eric Welch/GIA
You might reach a point where it’s better to stop talking and let the client admire the
beauty of the jewelry piece she’s considering.
You might be able to learn what a new customer wants or needs to know
by signals she sends with her manner, dress, or questions she asks. A sure
way to learn how to tailor your approach is to conduct little tests. If your
customer responds eagerly to a technical fact or two, if she expresses
interest when you mention a bit of gem lore, or if she pursues price when
you allude to it, you’ve probably uncovered her orientation.
Your customer file can be your own personal treasure, whether it’s an
electronic database or composed of individual index cards.
Use the file to update each customer’s data whenever she comes in. If you
don’t see a customer for a while, call or email to say, for example, that there’s
a store event, new merchandise, or gem and jewelry news you thought
she might be interested in. When you make contact, take the opportunity
to update her entry in your customer file.
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iStockphoto
Try to stay in touch with your customers. For example, you might call your customer
when a pendant comes in that matches the ring she’s already purchased.
When you think of your customers as clients, you can give them
personalized attention. Without being a pest, you can use the information
you collect in your files to fit their purchases to their interests. Your clients
are people with preferences, families, friends, relationships, hobbies, and
habits. Knowing this lets you appeal directly to their interests. Rather than
marketing to them in a general way, you can approach them with specifics
and increase your chances of success.
For example, suppose it’s May and your customer file shows that Mrs.
Jones’ daughter, Ruth, just turned 18. This means she’s probably about to
graduate from high school. Mrs. Jones might appreciate it if you let her
know you have several new items that might be great graduation gifts. She
might also be flattered by your personal attention. And she might just
come in and buy one of your new items.
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Valerie Power/GIA
This modern ring contains a bezel-set
3.20-ct. pink sapphire with diamond
accent stones. The stone’s unique non-
traditional cut and the ring’s clean lines
are very likely to spark a customer’s
interest.
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Valerie Power/GIA
These cultured pearls in a Chinese factory
are being dyed to give them a subtle pink
tint. Many consumers prefer their pearl
jewelry to have a warm blush of pink.
Gem Treatments
Treatment—Any human-controlled Many gems undergo some kind of treatment, most often to enhance appear-
process, beyond cutting and polishing, ance. For example, many emeralds have fractures that are filled with oil,
that improves the appearance, resin, or both to reduce their negative visual impact. Rubies and sapphires
durability, or value of a gem. are routinely heat-treated to improve their color. Many light-colored
cultured pearls are bleached to remove dark spots and produce uniform
color. If the gems you sell are treated, you should tell your customers.
Although some treatments are undetectable, many can be detected by
trained gemologists. A retailer’s supplier is usually the best source of infor-
mation regarding whether or not gems are treated. If treatment information
isn’t available and you’re selling a gem known to be routinely treated, you
should assume it has been and inform your customer.
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Andy Lucas/GIA
Due to the way they form in nature, most
emeralds require treatment to improve
their appearance. These emeralds in
Colombia are being prepared for
treatment.
Andy Lucas/GIA
Most rubies and sapphires are heated to improve color and sometimes clarity. This is
a heat-treatment oven in a facility in Bangkok, Thailand.
John I. Koivula/GIA
Cavities on the base of this turquoise
cabochon were filled with a plastic-like
substance to conceal them. This and
other treatments must be disclosed to
the customer prior to sale.
Myriam Naftule Whitney
The attractive colors of these yellow to pinkish orange sapphires are the result of
treatment, which must be disclosed at the point of sale.
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Maha Tannous/GIA
In today’s marketplace, there’s a wide variety of lab-grown materials. These include
lab-grown ruby and sapphire, spinel, emerald, opal, amethyst, and even diamond.
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You’ve learned that different metals have different properties and that
some gems scratch easily. It’s important to be able to convey this
information to your customers, but it’s equally important not to scare
them. If you educate your customers properly, they’ll be impressed with
your expertise and concern, and will be more likely to return to you for
their next jewelry purchase.
Hard gemstones, like diamonds (the hardest), rubies, and sapphires, will
scratch not only softer gemstones, like cultured pearls and opals, but also
precious metals. Metals can scratch other metals, and chains can tangle,
twist, and get damaged if they’re stored or handled carelessly. Sophia By Design/Matt Biller Photography
With the right maintenance care, your
Metals and other gems can easily damage a cultured pearl’s surface, so clients’ jewelry collections can last for a
you should encourage customers to take extra care with their cultured lifetime, and even become treasures for
the following generations.
pearl jewelry. They should never toss it into a purse or jewelry box with
other jewelry. If possible, each piece should be individually wrapped in
a soft silk or cotton bag. KEY
CONCEPTS
All jewelry, no matter what it’s made of, should be handled with care and
respect. Jewelry should be kept in a clean, protected place, preferably a Jewelry should be stored separately in a
lined jewelry box with separated sections. clean, protected place.
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Eric Welch/GIA
It’s very important to follow your store’s
take-in procedures. Make sure you
accurately record the condition and
nature of any jewelry pieces according
to your store’s established policies.
Eric Welch/GIA
Offering routine jewelry cleaning and inspection brings customers back into your store.
This gives you the opportunity to show them new items and generate repeat sales.
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Eric Welch/GIA
If you offer jewelry repair on the premises, it can often help if your bench jeweler
explains the repair process to the customer.
Even if your store has equipment and procedures for cleaning jewelry, Ultrasonic cleaner—A machine that
you should clean jewelry only if you have the proper training. If you don’t, cleans jewelry with high-frequency
ask a trained associate for advice. An ultrasonic cleaner cleans jewelry sound waves in a liquid solution.
with high-frequency sound waves that pass through a liquid cleaning
solution. The ultrasonic cleaners commonly used in jewelry stores aren’t
appropriate for all gems. They should never be used to clean various
treated gems or easily damaged gems like emerald, tanzanite, opal, pearl,
and coral.
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Shutterstock
Tarnished silver can be quickly restored
using special cleaning solutions.
Shutterstock
Many household cleaning products contain harsh chemicals that can damage some
gems. If in doubt, it’s best to remove jewelry before starting a cleaning project.
Home Care
Like gemstones, the beauty of the metals in jewelry can be maintained
by a daily wipe with a soft, dry cloth. There are commercial jewelry
cleaners made for home use, but remind your customers to check the
labels to be sure the cleaners won’t harm the gems in their new jewelry.
Prolonged exposure to chlorine can damage and discolor karat gold and
sterling silver. It actually affects the alloying metals, not the gold or silver.
Tell your customers to keep their jewelry away from household cleansers
that contain chlorine bleach, and out of swimming pools and spas that
contain chlorine.
A polishing cloth works best for gently cleaning karat-gold and silver
jewelry. Paper towels can scratch gold and silver, so they’re not a good
choice. Most of the care-and-cleaning rules and cautions for karat gold
also apply to platinum. Also, a professional repolishing can remove
scratches from karat gold and platinum with very little metal loss.
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Jewelry Repairs
n What’s the first step to take when a customer brings in a piece of jewelry?
n How does knowledge of gems and metals help you when taking in
jewelry repairs?
n How can jewelry repairs offer the opportunity for additional sales?
Another customer service opportunity arises when people bring jewelry
in for repair. While this lets you help customers keep their jewelry in good
condition, you can also assist and advise them if problems occur.
An important first step is always to inspect the customer’s jewelry to ensure Eric Welch/GIA
its condition and to make the customer aware of any problems that might Jewelry repair and maintenance programs
arise with the repair. Also make sure to document this information and give stores the opportunity for customer
give the customer a copy. contact that extends well beyond initial
sales.
Valerie Power/GIA
Some stores feature their jewelry repair facilities prominently. This one has a large
window so clients can see the bench jeweler at work.
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Eric Welch/GIA
When you take in jewelry, make sure you examine each piece carefully with a 10X loupe.
A Take-In Example
Suppose Mrs. Smith bought a new pair of diamond stud earrings from you
last year. Following your advice, she brings them in for cleaning. She also
brings some other pieces from her collection: a channel-set diamond ring,
a prong-set ruby ring she inherited from an aunt, and a 14K yellow gold band.
“All of these need cleaning,” she says, “especially the diamond ring. And
I’d like to get it and the plain band sized up—they’re both a little tight
these days.”
Loupe—A small, handheld You inspect each piece with a 10X loupe, the standard jewelry industry
magnifying device. handheld magnifier. The earrings, the diamond ring, and the plain band
are all in good shape. A thorough cleaning will make them sparkle and shine.
The ruby ring is another matter, though. Its fine-looking ruby was once
held in place by six gold prongs, but one of the prongs is bent away from
the stone. The tops of the other five are so badly worn it’s a miracle the
stone is still in place. A check confirms years of accumulated dirt under
the stone. The dirt is probably what’s holding the stone in place. You also
notice the shank has worn dangerously thin.
You measure Mrs. Smith’s finger and find it’s a size 7. The diamond ring
and the plain gold band are both size 6. You excuse yourself while you
consult with your store’s bench jeweler about the work that has to be done
on the three rings, then return to talk to Mrs. Smith.
“Cleaning these pieces will take just a few minutes,” you tell her. “And
our bench jeweler can size the plain band immediately. Sizing the
channel-set ring is a little more complicated, so you’ll have to leave it
with us for a few days.
“I’d like to bring some things to your attention about your ruby ring,
though,” you continue. “One of the prongs is pulled away from the stone,
and the other five are badly worn. It’s amazing that the ruby is still in place.
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Serving and Building Your Clientele
“On top of that, see how thin the shank is?” you ask as you turn the ring
over. “It’s almost worn through. We can repair the prongs, and it’s usually
not difficult to replace part of a shank. It’s no more complicated than
sizing a ring, especially one with such a simple design.
“But taken all together, I think you might be better off if we take the ruby Remounting—Removing a gem or
out of the ring and remount it. We have a selection of mountings you can gems and resetting them in a new
choose from. In the long run, it’ll be less expensive than trying to repair mounting.
everything that’s needed here. Of course, your decision depends on your
emotional attachment to your aunt’s ring, though you’ll still have her
lovely ruby. If you’d rather keep the ring as an heirloom, we can certainly
restore it for you.”
Sizing a Ring
One of the most frequent jewelry repair services is ring sizing. When it’s
done right, the ring fits well and comfortably, and if the shank is cut, the
seams where the ring was made larger or smaller are invisible.
The bench jeweler is responsible for the quality of the resizing and finish
work. But it’s up to you to make sure you take proper measurements of
your customer’s finger.
Many manufacturers provide ring gauges for sizing. The gauges come in
two widths. When you measure a customer’s finger, use the width that
most closely matches the ring that’s being resized.
When you try the ring gauge on a customer’s finger, make sure it fits the
way the final resized ring should fit. Always ask the customer how it feels
too. Don’t assume it’s sized correctly only because it looks as if it fits. The
customer might feel it’s a little too snug or too loose. In that case, keep
trying until you get the right size. Also keep in mind that finger size can
change with the weather, after exercise, and other times when hands swell.
Eric Welch/GIA
A ring stretcher is useful for certain ring styles, such as this plain band. It can damage
other styles, such as rings set with gems.
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Jewelry Essentials 6
Mandrel—Tapered, cylindrical metal Most bench jewelers have a ring mandrel to measure ring size. It’s a
rod with measurement marks used to tapered, round metal rod marked with ring-size measurements. Be sure
determine a ring’s size. the sizes of the ring gauges match those marked on the jeweler’s mandrel.
A properly resized ring passes easily over the knuckle and fits comfortably
on the customer’s finger. Some customers might have special needs—such
as swollen joints—that require extra care in ring sizing. In these cases, an
adjustable shank might be the answer.
Sizing Methods
When you take a ring in for sizing, you should be aware of potential
problems so you can tell your customer about them. She must understand
that resizing causes physical changes in a ring’s structure. A ring can be
resized by stretching, soldering in a new section, or by sawing a section
out and resoldering the ends together.
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Eric Welch/GIA
Resizing rings that contain mounted gems requires great care and skill.
Use of a ring stretcher is the quickest way to resize a ring, but it has its Ring stretcher—A device that stretches
limitations. The stretcher is generally used only on plain bands because a ring shank to increase its diameter.
stretching gem-set rings can damage both the ring and the gems. And there
are limits to how much you can stretch a ring, depending on the ring and
its condition. Stretching might also reduce the thickness of the shank or
distort the ring’s texture slightly. KEY
CONCEPTS
You can resize a ring with a stretcher only once. If you try to stretch a
previously resized ring, the shank will split. A ring’s style and condition determine
how much you can stretch it.
Mrs. Smith’s plain band can be easily sized on a ring stretcher, but her
channel-set ring requires a more complex sizing operation. It can be sized
up by soldering a small piece of metal into the bottom of the shank, then
styling the new metal to match. Fortunately, in this case the ring has to
increase only one size. The channel setting might not withstand more than
that. Trying to get it any larger could cause the stones to loosen and fall
out or rub together and chip.
To make a ring smaller, the bench jeweler saws the appropriate amount
of metal out of the shank. The next step is to bring the two ends of the
shank together and solder them, and finally to file and polish the metal
to make the repair invisible.
Reducing the size of some rings too much distorts and damages the setting
and might cause the gems to be damaged or lost. Sizing channel-set rings
and other types of gem-set rings requires extreme care to avoid damaging
the settings or the stones. Rings set with gems might have limits on the
range they can be sized, or whether they can be sized at all. It’s best to
consult a bench jeweler or an experienced coworker.
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Eric Welch/GIA
During retipping, the top of a prong is rebuilt to hold a gem more securely.
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Serving and Building Your Clientele
Eric Welch/GIA
Then the jeweler files it down to give it a
finished look.
Eric Welch/GIA
With the tip held in place, the bench jeweler carefully solders it to the existing setting.
Eric Welch/GIA
A well-executed retipping is unnoticeable,
but it results in a much more secure
setting.
Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA
After filing, the ring goes through a series After cleaning in an ultrasonic machine,
of polishing steps to make it look as good the final step is to complete the cleaning
as new. process in a steam cleaner.
Retipping is possible only if the gems can withstand the heat of the bench Repronging—Replacing a prong.
jeweler’s torch. An alternative is to use a laser welder. Otherwise, the
stones have to be taken out and reset. If the prong is badly worn or missing,
it usually has to be replaced in a procedure called repronging. If the tip
of the prong is below the stone’s girdle, it must be repronged.
There’s a third alternative beyond retipping or repronging. If the setting is
badly worn or damaged, it might be safer and more cost effective to
replace the entire head. This is a decision your bench jeweler or supervisor
can help you explore with your customer.
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Eric Welch/GIA
When an older piece has worn out from use, a customer might want to have the gems
remounted into an identical ring. Another option is to use the gems in a striking new
mounting.
Remounting
There are lots of reasons for remounting a stone. The jewelry might be
severely worn away or the owner might be tired of the jewelry and want a
new look.
Blank mounting—An empty mounting Some stores keep blank mountings or semi-mounts in stock, while other
with space for gems of a customer’s stores order them as needed. A blank mounting has no stones in it at all,
choosing. while a semi-mount has only its accent stones set in place. If you have
blank mountings on hand, you can use them as a sales tool. A blank
mounting is especially useful if the stones in the customer’s ring are loose.
You can temporarily position them in a blank mounting so the customer
can see what the new finished jewelry will look like.
If your store doesn’t stock blank mountings you can usually show
customers pictures from your supplier’s catalog. There are also computer
programs that can help you work with the customer to “design” a new
ring. These programs include catalogs of mountings and findings.
These are just a few examples of what’s involved in jewelry repair. The
list of things that can happen to jewelry—and the ways to fix the damage
that results—is endless.
You can educate yourself about ring sizing, repairs, and remounting by
talking with your store’s bench jeweler, owner, manager, or other sales
associates. Listen carefully to experienced coworkers when they explain
repair procedures to customers. It’s especially important to be aware of some
ring styles—tension-set rings, for example—that should never be resized.
In this assignment, you’ve seen that follow-up and customer service have
Eric Welch/GIA
many aspects and require a wide variety of skills. But they’re important
factors in ensuring satisfied customers who keep their purchases, come
No matter what the reasons are for a
remount, it’s another great opportunity back to buy again and again, and recommend you and your store to others.
to cement your relationship with a client. With these skills, along with the knowledge you’ve gained in this course,
Every time they return to your store, you you’re well on your way to a rewarding sales career filled with excitement,
have a chance for another sale. Good luck! opportunity, and challenge.
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Serving and Building Your Clientele
KEY
CONCEPTS
Your customers should see you as a gem and jewelry authority Customers you serve well will usually refer others to you.
and professional resource.
After-the-sale customer service starts before your customer
Follow-up contacts can help establish trust between you and leaves the store with her new purchase.
your customer.
Jewelry should be stored separately in a clean, protected
Generating increased sales and profits takes product place.
knowledge and constant effort.
Jewelry should be professionally cleaned and checked
It’s always easier to sell to repeat and referral customers than periodically.
to new ones.
A ring’s style and condition determine how much you can
Customers who trust your knowledge and expertise are more stretch it.
likely to buy from you.
Key Terms
Blank mounting—An empty mounting with space for Repronging—Replacing a prong.
gems of a customer’s choosing.
Retipping—Rebuilding the top of a prong with matching
Buyer’s remorse—A feeling of guilt or regret about having
metal.
spent money, especially on a major purchase.
Disclosure—Clearly and accurately informing customers Ring stretcher—A device that stretches a ring shank to
about the nature of the goods they buy. increase its diameter.
Half-shanking—Partially replacing a ring shank that’s Simulant (imitation)—A natural or manmade material
damaged or worn. that resembles a gem.
Lab-grown gem—A manmade (synthetic) gem with
essentially the same chemical composition, crystal Take-in—A procedure for receiving customer jewelry for
structure, and properties as its natural counterpart. repair, appraisal, or cleaning.
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n How does product knowledge help you explain care and cleaning?
n What’s the first step to take when a customer brings in a piece of jewelry?
n How does knowledge of gems and metals help you when taking in jewelry repairs?
n How can jewelry repairs offer the opportunity for additional sales?
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Jewelry Essentials
Photo Courtesies
The Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people and organizations for
their assistance in gathering or producing some of the images used in this assignment book:
A. Gunalp Horologist Watch & Clock Shop John C. Nordt Company Peggy Tsamis
Ambar Diamonds John O'Hara Petra Jewelry
Bill Gangi KCB Natural Pearls Piaget
Clara Zink King Plutarco, Inc. RareSource
Craig Danforth L. Sunderdas Zaveri Richard Krementz Gemstones
Crown Color Linneys & Bill Reed Rose Tozer
Dalia Livingstone Jewelry Royal Maui Jewelers
Don Yesid Nieto, Bogota, Colombia Luz M. Lopez S Shah Inc.
Duncan Pay M & M Dynasty Sharon Doar-Toth
Dynamic International Maija Neimanis Signed Pieces New York
Emitations Marianne Hunter in memory of Sammie Dunn Silver Universe
Fai Dee Inc. Marisa Goebbel Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond
FEI Mark Maxwell Company gift
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For Further Reading
To give you the opportunity to learn more about the subjects you are studying
and enrich your gemological knowledge, a list of articles relevant to each
Jewelry Essentials assignment is provided below. It is important to note that
this reading is optional. You will not be tested on the content of these articles. Scan the QR code above or go to
https://www.gia.edu/library to
All G&G articles are available for download free of charge at www.gia.edu. access articles for further reading.
Copies of these articles are also available at your GIA campus location.
Check with your instructor for access to them.
Lucas A. et al. (2016) Jewelers to the Maharajas of Jaipur and Modern-Day Moguls. GIA Research & News
https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/jaipur-india-jewelers-maharajas-modern-day-moguls
Hsu T. et al. (2014) Exploring the Chinese Gem and Jewelry Industry. Gems & Gemology, Spring 2014, Vol. 50, No. 1
https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/spring-2014-lucas-chinese-gem-industry
Lucas A. (2013) The Rise of the Brazilian Jewelry Industry. GIA Research & News
https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-rise-of-the-brazilian-jewelry-industry
Hoop Dreams: NBA Championship Rings (2016) GIA Research & News
https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/nba-championship-rings
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For Further Reading
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