Tamil Nadu Open University

School of Continuing Education

Short-Term Course in Beautician

(SCB)

SCB-11: Beauty Care and Makeup

November, 2021
 Name of Programme: Short-Term Course in Beautician

Course Code with Title: SCB-11: Beautician

Dr. P. Thiyagarajan
Curriculum Design:
Professor & Director

R. Meenambigai
Assistant Professor

Dr. I. Ambeth
Assistant Professor
School of Continuing Education
Tamil Nadu Open University, Chennai.

R. Meenambigai
Content Editor and
Assistant Professor
Course Coordinator:
School of Continuing Education
Tamil Nadu Open University, Chennai.

November 2021 (First Edition)

ISBN No.: 978-93-95841-97-9

Total no. of pages: 152

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other means, without permission in writing from the Tamil Nadu Open University. Course Writer
is the responsible person for the contents presented in the Course Materials.

Further information on the Tamil Nadu Open University Academic Programmes may be
obtained from the University Office at 577, Anna Salai, Saidapet, Chennai-600 015 [or]
www.tnou.ac.in

@ TNOU, 2022, “Beautician” is made available under a Creative Commons

Attribution – Non Commercial - Share Alike 4.0 License (International)
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/

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 SCB-11: Beauty Care and Makeup

S.No. Content Page No

Unit-1 Personality Development 3

Unit- 2 Manicure and Pedicure 15

Unit- 3 Hair and Superfluous Hair 42

Unit- 4 Temporary Removal of Superfluous Hair 51

Unit- 5 Basic Hair Styling 66

Unit- 6 Thermal Hair Styling 98

Unit- 7 Skin Care 113

Unit- 8 Makeup 135

References 151

Plagiarism Certificate 152

Course Introduction

The Course Beauty care and makeup consists of eight Units which
covers the basics techniques of beauty, grooming, skin care, hair styling
and makeup.
Course Objectives:

While studying the short-term course on Beautician, the student shall be

able to:
 Understand the importance of hygiene and sanitation to be
maintained in a beauty parlour
 Describe about the personal etiquettes to be followed for
becoming a beauty professional

 Identify the type of hair and the suitable styling of hair for various
lengths of hair
 Identify the types of skin by performing skin analysis

 Explain the procedure of manicure and pedicure

 List the contraindications of manicure, pedicure, bleaching,
facial, hair straightening
Course Outcomes:
After completion of the Short-Term Course in Beautician, the student
will be able to:
 Maintain the professional ethics in the work place
 Perform Manicure and Pedicure
 Illustrate the process of temporary removal of superfluous hair
using threading, waxing, bleaching
 Perform the facial and the massages of the facial
 Create various basic hair styling like curls and rolls

 Identify all the tools, accessories and brushes used for makeup
 Understand about various types of makeup including corrective
makeup

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 Unit-1

Personality Development

Structure

Overview
Objectives
1.1. Personal Grooming

1.2. Professional Ethics of Beauty Professionals

1.3. Professional Etiquettes
1.4. Sterilization and Sanitization

Check Your Progress

Let Us Sum Up
Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Personal Grooming and its importance,
Professional Ethics of Beauty Professionals that are to be followed,
Professional Etiquettes, Sterilization and Sanitization of tools and
equipment used in the parlour.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Personal Grooming and its importance
 Professional Ethics of Beauty Professionals that are to be
followed
 Professional Etiquettes
 Sterilization and Sanitization of tools and equipment used in the
parlour

1.1. Personal Grooming

Grooming is typically defined as activities that include caring for one‘s

appearance and well-being. It is the art of maintaining parts of the body
like the face, hair, nails, skin, and so on.

3
Grooming is important for everyone, but for women it is crucial.
Grooming for women includes a wide range of activities like making the
hair, wearing clean beautiful clothes, putting on makeup
The beauty and grooming industry needs personnel who are well-
groomed and presentable. The reason is simple. How can you be a
beautician or a grooming artist when you yourself are not groomed? This
is where confidence and trust are built in a service provided in the
beauty industry. You might have seen that staff in a top-notch salon are
extremely well-groomed. They take care of their appearance and look
presentable during service hours. Experts of this industry suggest
seeking a grooming course first and learn how to be presentable in the
big platform.
Grooming will give you the confidence to dress up, look presentable and
confident every day while hitting your workplace. Your self-grooming
venture will be the demonstration of your skills. On grooming yourself
properly, you will become presentable and reliable to customers. No one
will seek service from someone with a messy look for a grooming
session.
1. Personal Hygiene:
Personal hygiene is keeping the body clean, and helps prevent the
spread of germs. Grooming is caring for fingernails and hair examples of
these activities would be Styling hair, shaving, trimming and painting
fingernails. Feeling and looking good are important to each individual‘s
emotional and physical well being.
The hygiene of your hair, skin, nails, teeth and body must be perfect.
Working within any of the hair and beauty industries, treatments and
services involve close contact with clients. Broken skin or infection on
exposed parts of the body of the operator should be kept covered with a
waterproof plaster or handy tape (available from pharmacies). Single-
use disposable gloves must be worn if the procedure involves skin
penetration.
Personal hygiene which is also referred to as personal care includes all
of the following:
 Bathing and Showering
 Hair care

 Nail care
 Foot care

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  Genital care
 Dental care
2. Grooming:
(i) Clothing: This must be freshly laundered and clean every day, as
smells from food, the environment and smoke can cling to the fibres of
the material, which clients may find off-putting. If it is not possible to
launder a uniform every day, it should not be worn to and from the
workplace but hung up and changed into on arrival at work and then
changed out of when it is time to leave.
(ii) Footwear: The style of footwear will depend on the industry. Many
industries within the sector expect employees to wear sensible,
enclosed, low heeled shoes as there is a health and safety issue to
consider. Dropping sharp tools and implements could result in injury to
the foot if open toed shoes are being worn.
(iii) Accessories: The wearing of excess jewellery is not advised as this
could scratch clients while carrying out hairdressing or beauty therapy
treatments. Small, discreet pieces of jewellery are acceptable
(iv) Hairstyle: Depending on the workplace, these can range from funky
and outrageous to perfectly formed buns. On visiting a hair salon, you
might expect to see unusual hair styles and colours; however, if you
were to visit a spa, the opposite would be true.
(v) Make-up and nails: The hair and beauty industries normally expect
employees to wear a light day make-up, although some employers may
expect more. While he wearing of nail varnish is usually not allowed in
the beauty and spa industries, a nail technician would be expected to.
The most important thing to remember with make-up and nails is that the
application is perfect and remains un-smudged and un-chipped
throughout the day.
(vi) Personal conduct: The good behavior and conduct of all
employees is essential to the smooth and safe running of a business.
The poor conduct of one employee could reflect on each and every
member of the business and the visitors to it. The implications of poor
conduct could damage the business‘ image as well as risking injury to
self and others and the spread of infection resulting in illness.
3. Benefits of Personal Hygiene:

There are several benefits of grooming. Here are some of them to give
you the motivation you need.

5
(i) It Gives You Self-Confidence: Self-confidence is described as the
belief in oneself. It is self-assurance in your capabilities, judgment, and
power. Self-confidence is the end product or result of a healthy self-
esteem. Every woman needs her self-confidence to step out into the
world and be her best each day. Grooming plays a major role
in maintaining a high self-esteem and self-confidence. It does this by
influencing your appearance, which in turn affects the way you regard
yourself.
When your hair looks neat and beautiful, and your gel manicure is still
intact, you can observe how your confidence will rise. However, if your
appearance is the other way round, then your self-confidence will be
diminished.
(ii) It shows professionalism in the workplace: In a workplace, the
code of conduct and appearance is established as formal, neat, and
respectful. When you take the time to groom yourself, it simply shows
that you are professional and should be taken seriously. It greatly
impacts your image in the workplace and how you are perceived.
You will earn respect from your employers and colleagues.
(iii) It influences your emotions: You should probably perform a
personal test to experience this one for yourself. Get gel nails in London,
style your hair in the most flattering way, wear some clean, pretty
clothes, perform other grooming activities and take a stroll when you are
done. Grooming has been proven to make ladies happy. It contributes to
feeling good with yourself because you know you look good.
(iv) It makes you adaptable to any environment: Neat and beautiful is
always in fashion and it is acceptable at any place or occasion. A
shabby appearance, on the other hand, is not welcomed in most places.
Grooming makes a lady adaptable to any environment. If you are visiting
somewhere for the first time, one thing is sure- a complete grooming
routine will help you make a good first impression and win acceptance
quickly.
(v) It gives you respect: If you respect yourself enough to learn the
best ways to groom and look presentable, then others will have no
choice but to respect you too. When a lady takes time and puts effort
into her appearance it says a lot about her self-esteem and regard for
herself. This does not mean you have to be flashy to be noticed and
respected. Rather it means people will appreciate your appearance and
act in a respectable manner towards you.

6
Beauty goes beyond your physical attributes to include the totality of
your appearance. Hair, nails, makeup, jewellery, and so on are used by
women to enhance their beauty. They are part of a complete grooming
routine.
Grooming also eliminates the following:
 Germs
 Bacteria
 Unhealthy practices such as overfeeding, not bathing often, nail-
biting, and so on.
These are harmful to your health and can cause illnesses. They can also
damage skin and your physical appearance. The concept of grooming is
proper hygiene. It ensures you stay clean with good hygienic practices.
Grooming is a commitment that indirectly teaches you some life skills.
As ladies, learning self-grooming helps you prepare for your future and
the way to care for your family. It is a practice that must be taught to
children and used to maintain cleanliness and orderliness in the home.

1.2. Professional Ethics of Beauty Professionals

Professional ethics are principles that govern the behaviour of a

person or group in a business environment. Like values, professional
ethics provide rules on how a person should act towards other people
and institutions in such an environment.
Developing and following a code of ethics for your salon business helps
you set the tone for your employees, reassure your clients that you have
their best interests at heart, and establish your salon as a reputable,
professional place of business. The term "work ethics" refers to your
values, how you work. Having an excellent work ethic involves the right
attitude, correct behavior, and respect for others at home and yes at
work, diligence, and effective communication. Essentially, a work ethic
regulates how an employee responds in different situations in the salon.
Your code of ethics should cover employee behaviour within the salon,
treatment of your customers, and interactions with other salons. Include
the code of ethics in employee training and handbooks and periodically
evaluate how well your employees are following the code. Post it
prominently in your salon where customers can see it so they are
familiar with your ethical philosophy.

7
i) General Operating Philosophy:

Your code of ethics should be clear, concise and comprised of key

concepts that support the operation of an honest, reliable and quality-
focused salon. The code might include a statement that you will not
discriminate against employees or customers based on race, sex,
religion, age or ethnicity. It might also include your commitment to use
only safe products, and a promise to openly post charges and payment
policies. Include language about following hygiene and safety
procedures to fully protect your customers, as well as your promise to
keep the licensing and registration of the salon and all employees
current as required by law.
ii) Employee Conduct:

Include key elements of your salon employees' required conduct in the

code of ethics. Use statements such as "employees will respect their co-
workers' property," and "employees will treat all clients with dignity and
respect." Include prohibitions against poaching clients from other stylists
and bad-mouthing other stylists' work or abilities. Encourage your
employees to exhibit the highest levels of integrity and professionalism
in their dealings with clients and each other.
iii) Dealing With Your Customers:

Customers are the lifeblood of any small business, and never more so
than in a service business catering to their self-image. Keep them
happy, respond to their needs and desires, and treat them with respect
to retaining current clients and attract new ones. Emphasize the
customer's primacy in the salon, stress your commitment to protecting
their privacy and maintaining their confidences, and encourage their
cooperation in adhering to scheduled appointments.
iv) Professional Coexistence with Competitors:

While you cannot control how other salons in your area conduct
business, you can require your employees to conduct themselves
professionally with regard to competitors. This section of your code of
ethics might include your stated commitment to not spread negative
information about your competitors; a promise to refrain from deliberate
attempts to steal their customers; and a commitment to adhere to
recognized industry standards of service and conduct.

1.3. Professional Etiquettes

In order to retain customers, there is a need to carefully evaluate the

importance of the buyer relationship to meet the organization needs.

8
Clients want to enjoy their visit to the beauty salon and they are paying
for a service. It is important that during each visit they are made to feel
relaxed and comfortable. Remember that each client has a different
personality and different treatment needs, requiring an individual
treatment approach. A client can be made to feel intimidated,
uncomfortable or ignored; and this can happen without you saying
anything, even without speaking you communicate with your eyes, your
face and your body, transmitting some of your feelings. This is called no
–verbal communication, how you look and how you behave in front of
your clients are important.
i. Effects of etiquettes:

You need to take in required etiquettes in yourself and your staff if you
wish that your client should re-visit your salon often. Train your reception
staff specially to meet and greet all the clients by exhibiting polite
etiquettes and mannerisms. For instance, they should always address
the client by her name in order to make her feel important and special.
This will also circulate a strong notion that – when their welcome is so
specialized – the services will definitely be accustomed as per her taste
and preferences. Also, make sure the services you recommend is
absolutely as the client‘s requirements and past experiences, instead of
forcing any kind of beauty, make-up or hair service adamantly to her
which might not compliment her mood, skin, taste or even budget.
ii. Privacy is primary:

Perhaps, your customer would not want to share all her details in the
presence of entire salon staff or other clients. Thus, give her adequate
dose of privacy by taking her in a close door cabin and talk to her to
discuss all the services she would opt in one go. For this, make sure,
you have a separate consultation room designed specially in your new
salon. If you are already running a salon, you may talk to the client in the
therapy room or facial area, separated from the main area of the salon.
This concealed cabin shall take your customer in comfort zone– so that
she openly answer queries about her skin type, allergic to ingredients (if
any) or other dilemmas. This practice would her you offer her the right
services which will satisfy her and bring her back to your salon often.
The availability of a skin-expert would be an added perk to thoroughly
solve the skin and hair issues of the client, besides giving your salon an
edge over others.

9
iii. Don’t barge beyond that comfort zone:

Start you conversation with your client by asking open-ended questions

that purely bring her to comfort-zone. Questions like what‘s your name,
skin type or issues facing, will only add to the time she will take to get
familiar with you. Thereby, avoid such questions and ask anything, only
after telling her about you, your salon and services in demand as per the
running season, to keep the conversation mutual and flowing towards
both sides. For instance, always tell your name first and then start with
crisp brief about your salon, so that she feels like a acquaintance rather
than a consumer. Besides, be a very good listener to analyse her nature
during the meet. This will help you understand her preferences well and
made her beauty session an impressive one.
iv. Directly proportional:

If you may listen to your client well, then only, she would listen to you –
happens to be the universal rule of ‗client-ing‘. So, be sure to give
enough respect to her opinions and mark every word she is sayings
about the services she wants or past experiences and accordingly
respond aptly. Moreover, before trying this suggestion, try to read her
personality type to act and train your service staff in accordance to her
likes or dislikes. Must check whether she is an introvert or extrovert to
act in the similar manner and keep her mentally satisfied. For example, a
highly talkative person won‘t like if the staff performs all the services
silently! So, it‘s important to train your staff accordingly.
v. Ask her priorities:

While she is heading towards the bill counter and you had suggested her
some products to use regularly as per her hair or skin type while
performing the services, ask her if she would like to buy them, without
forcing her to purchase them. Advice her as and when required or if she
may ask about the product you‘ve applied on her skin to give her
glowing look. This will go as a soft-push without proving you a desperate
seller. Give her due concession on her services, whether you‘ve
promised it before or not as women love discounts. Also, ask her if she
liked her services and take her feedback to know about her mental
status. And, be polite to her until it leaves a mark on her mind, while
leave the rest would be done by the quality and impact of your services.

1.4. Sterilization and Sanitization

Sanitation must be a top priority for a beauty salon to meet industry and
client cleanliness standards. Many bacteria can be found in salons,
making certain sanitation practices standard for all types of beauty

10
salons. Every product, appliance or tool that comes in contact with a
client must be disinfected and sanitized. For example, combs and
brushes must be kept in a mixture of equal parts germicide and water, a
disinfectant liquid, between uses. Employees must follow basic practices
such as washing towels, cleaning sinks and floors and washing hands.
Most states issue informational documents to salon businesses to guide
them in keeping their facilities sanitary and healthy.
Maintaining salon hygiene is not difficult. It takes a little time, but is well
worth it. Not only will your salon look more appealing, but it will be safer
for you and your clients too.
1. Cleaning:

Cleaning is the removal of soil and a reduction in the number of micro-

organisms from equipment surfaces by washing in detergent and warm
water. All reusable equipment used for skin penetration should be
cleaned and sterilized and maintained in a sterile condition because
once a sterilized item comes into contact with something that is not
sterile, it also becomes un-sterile. Cleaning is vital prior to disinfecting
utensils, as any build-up of organic material (hair, grease etc.) will
prevent the disinfectant from working effectively.
Cleaning must always occur as a first step before disinfection or
sterilization. Manual cleaning involves the use of a detergent and water
solution and scrubbing (the use of friction) to remove soil. Mechanical
cleaning of equipment/instruments involves the use of an ultrasonic
cleaner and an appropriate cleaning solution.
Instruments that are able to be immersed in water should be cleaned in
the following manner:

 WASHING in clean water with soap or a suitable detergent at the

temperature recommended by the manufacturer.
 RINSING in clean water.

 DRYING with a clean cloth.

2. Disinfection:

Disinfection is a process used to reduce the number of harmful micro-

organisms but may not necessarily kill all of them. The procedure used
for disinfecting depends on the type of disinfectant and instrument. It is
therefore important that the manufacturer‘s instructions are followed in
relation to the dilution of the disinfectant and the contact or immersion
time required.

11
All disinfecting immersion containers should be changed daily and
scrubbed out to remove any build-up of organic matter that will reduce
the effectiveness of the disinfectant. Electric Clippers and other electrical
items should not be immersed in water. Cleaning and disinfection should
instead occur by wiping them with a alcohol impregnated cotton pad to
remove all residual matter, then spraying or wiping them with an
appropriate alcohol based disinfectant.
Disinfectant solutions commonly used by many hairdressers for combs,
scissors, brushes etc. have been found to be ineffective. The routine
disinfection of these implements by this means is not recommended.
Disinfection does not achieve the same reduction in microbial
contamination levels as sterilization and must not be used for equipment
that penetrates the skin.
3. Sterilization:

Sterilization is the process of killing all micro-organisms including

bacterial spores. All reusable skin penetrating equipment contaminated
with blood or body fluids by any process, or equipment used in a skin
penetration procedure, must be cleaned as soon as possible after use
and then sterilized before using on another person. It is important that all
reusable equipment be cleaned thoroughly before sterilization to make
the sterilization process effective.
sterile immediately prior to use are those in which the skin will be
pierced or penetrated such as tattoo needles, ear piercing studs, cuticle
clippers, metal nail files (if they cause skin abrasions), electrolysis
needles or acupuncture needles and their associated devices (for
example, tattooing gun needle bar and/or nozzle, tattoo machine head).
4. Ultraviolet cabinets:
Ultraviolet (UV) cabinets do not sterilize equipment. UV light does not
penetrate to all surfaces of the appliances exposed and some viruses,
including HIV, can still survive. Note: Microwave ovens, pressure
cookers, incubators, boiling water units, ultrasonic cleaners and other
similar appliances also do not sterilize appliances. Wiping equipment
with disinfectants does not sterilize the item either
When it comes to salon disinfection, let‘s be honest – you are going to
have a lot of work.

 You have to thoroughly clean and disinfect the whole salon prior
to the reopening – including all surfaces, tools and linens, even if
you have cleaned everything before you closed.

12
  Disinfectant for washing tools must be mixed and replaced daily.
 Observe the contact time on labels of the disinfectants – you
have to meet the time requirements for them to work properly.
For sprays, it‘s usually 10 minutes, for wipes it‘s 2-4 minutes.
 Disinfection is for hard, non-porous surfaces (glass, metal,
plastic). Soft or porous surfaces (such as cardboard) cannot be
disinfected properly and cannot be reused.
 Laundry should be washed in hot soapy water and dried
completely at the warmest temperature allowed. Used or dirty
linens should be kept in an airtight container.
 All areas should be washed and sanitised regularly, including
phones, computers, cash registers, retail products and so on.
 Clean and wipe all door handles and other surfaces that are
regularly touched by your clients and staff. Preferably use
disinfectant wipes.
 All unnecessary items, especially ones that cannot be sanitised
properly, should be removed before the reopening.

Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. __________________ is keeping the body clean, and helps prevent

the spread of germs
2. __________________ is described as the belief in oneself.
3. ___________________ are principles that govern the behaviour of a
person or group in a business environment.
4. The term ___________________ refers to your values, how you
work.

5. ___________________ are the lifeblood of any small business, and

never more so than in a service business catering to their self-image.
6. The universal rule of _________________ is that, if you may listen
to your client well, then only, she would listen to you.
7. Every product, appliance or tool that comes in contact with a client
must be disinfected and __________________.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Personal Grooming and its importance,
Professional Ethics of Beauty Professionals that are to be followed,

13
Professional Etiquettes, Sterilization and Sanitization of tools and
equipment used in the parlour.

Answers to Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. Personal hygiene
2. Self-confidence
3. Professional ethics
4. work ethics

5. Customers
6. client-ing
7. sanitized

14
 Unit-2

Manicure and Pedicure

Structure

Overview
Objectives
2.1. Introduction and Need for Pedicure and Manicure

2.2. Tools for Pedicure and Manicure

2.3. Pedicure
2.4. Massage of Pedicure

2.5. Manicure
2.6. Massage of Manicure
Check Your Progress
Let Us Sum Up
Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Introduction and Need for Pedicure and
Manicure, Tools for Pedicure and Manicure, Pedicure, Massage of
Pedicure, Manicure and Massage of Manicure.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Introduction and Need for Pedicure and Manicure

 Tools for Pedicure and Manicure

 Pedicure and Massage of Pedicure
 Manicure and Massage of Manicure

2.1. Introduction and Need for Pedicure and Manicure

Our hands and feet are exposed to dirt and the harsh weather on a daily
basis, perhaps more than other parts of our body (except your face)
making them more vulnerable to damage. This means they accumulate
a whole ton of grime and dirt and washing is never enough. Do you want
to know what magic they do?

15
  Manicures and pedicures help exfoliate your skin, and they also
help in removing any callouses on your feet.
 They will help keep your nails clean and tidy which will prevent
fungal infections.
 Grooming your nails will prevent them from breaking or painful
chipping. It also prevents dry cuticles, hang nails or broken skin.
 Massaging is a part of the process and it helps boost blood
circulation, which means – you‘re less likely to develop wrinkles
on the hands through the years besides eliminating any kind of
swelling, numbness or pain.
 It‘s a great stress buster.
Hand and feet care regimes are two of the most popular treatment
services carried out by salons today. The purpose of the manicure and
pedicure is to improve the appearance and condition of hands and feet.
Once considered a luxury treatment for only the few, today those
services are used by many. Special treatments such as a warm oil bath,
paraffin wax treatments and herbal therapies can keep hands soft and
supple forever. Having a professional manicure and pedicure on a
regular basis is highly recommended for beautiful hands, feet and nails.
 Client‘s nails must be carefully examined prior to providing nail
services.
 Nail fungus usually appears as a discoloration in the nail that
spreads toward the cuticle.
 Nail ―mould‖ can often be identified in the early stages as a
yellow-green spot that becomes darker with time.
 Nail services must not be administered to clients with fungus or
mould on his/her nails. Clients with either of these conditions are
to be advised to see their doctor for appropriate treatment.
 Nail service equipment and instruments, including re-circulation
systems, must be cleaned and then intermediate to high-level
disinfected for an appropriate contact time after each use.
 Footbaths are to be cleaned with detergent and water and then
intermediate to high-level disinfected for an appropriate contact
time after each use. Both cleaning and disinfectant solutions are
to be circulated through the footbath‘s circulating system.

16
  Settings using footbaths with screens must remove the screens
daily in order to clean the screens, followed by intermediate to
high-level disinfection.
 Pedicure blades must be discarded in an approved sharps
container immediately after use on each client.
 Styptic products must be single-use and the disposable
applicator must be discarded after each client.

2.2. Pedicure and Manicure Tools

1. Nail Cutters:

A Nail cutter or clipper is the most basic tool that you need for manicure
and pedicures. Trimming them from time to time is important for
maintaining overall health, or for changing up nail length quickly and
easily.
How to use: Make sure your tool is clean. Place your nail in between
your nail cutter, and snip. Don't cut too much, as this can expose the
sensitive part of your nail bed and lead to a possible infection.

Fig. 2.1.: Nail Cutter

2. Nail File:

This tool is used to gently grind the edges of your nail down to make
them smooth. They're also used in helping shape your nails. There is
plenty of variety in nail files - emery boards, metal files, and glass to
name a few.
How to use: Ensure your nails are completely dry before trying to file as
wet nails split very easily. Hold the file at a 45-degree angle, start at one

17
corner and move to the center. Make sure you file in one direction, as a
"seesawing" motion can make your nails split.

Fig. 2.2.: Nail file

3. Nail Buffer:
The nail buffer's main job is to give your nails a consistent look. They
help buff out any ridges or peeling nails to create a smooth base. If you
want to get rid of dullness, this tool is also used to help provide a nice
natural shine.
How to use: Make sure your nails are clean and dry before buffing. Like
with filing, make sure you buff your nails in one direction, either forward
or backward. Don't go overboard and buff to harshly or too much, as that
can cause your nail bed to become thin. Lightly buffing your nails once a
month should be enough.

Fig. 2.3.: Nail buffer

4. Cuticle Pusher:

Cuticles require special care so they don't end up dry and flaky. A cuticle
pusher is used to push back the skin on your nails. Metal cuticle pushers

18
can be too harsh if your cuticles are more delicate, so wooden or plastic
ones are your best bet.
How to use: Pretty simple: Take your pusher and gently push the cuticle
and skin around the base of your nail. If you're a little too rough and
accidentally slice your skin, make sure you clean it well because it can
lead to infection. The main take away from this tool: be gentle!

Fig. 2.4.: Cuticle pusher

5. Cuticle Cutter:

While you shouldn't actually cut your cuticle away, cutting the excess
skin that collects around your cuticle, hangnails and dry skin is what this
tool is mostly used for. It offers great precision in trimming annoying
ingrown nails too.
How to use: Once the cuticle is pushed back, if you have quite a bit of
dead skin that's built up around your nail bed, you can use the cutters to
nip away at them. Use an upward motion to lift the dead skin up and
away from your nails.

Fig. 2.5.: Cuticle Cutter

19
6. Nail Brush:

A cute little brush that helps to get under your nails to clean them. If you
want your nails to look neat, using this tool every day can definitely help
you achieve that.
How to use: Hold the brush under warm water and squirt a small
amount of anti-bacterial soap on to it. Then scrub your nails and create a
lather. Rinse and say hello to squeaky clean nails!

Fig. 2.6.: Nail brush

7. Pumice Stone:

Pumice stones are perfect for keeping your feet in check. The pumice
stone removes the outermost layer of dead skin and calluses and are
found on the bottom of the feet, especially the heel. This also helps get
rid of dry, cracked skin.
How to use: Soak your feet in warm, soapy water for 10 minutes. Once
the dry skin has softened, wet the pumice stone and scrub your dead
skin away!

Fig. 2.7.: Pumice Stone

20
8. Toe Separator:

This tool is most commonly used to separate your toes before you put
on nail polish so that it doesn't smudge. But it has a few other uses as
well, including realigning joints, improving circulation, and straightening
bent toes which help relieve foot pain.
How to use: Just place between your toes and voilà, you're done!

Fig. 2.8.: Toe separator

9. Orange Stick:

Orange sticks are the perfect multi-purpose tools. They can be used to
push back cuticles, clean out dirt from under the nail, or fix nail polish
mistakes. There's no right "how-to" when using these, but definitely keep
some on hand for quick fixes!

Fig. 2.9.: Orange sticks

10. Cuticle Oil:

Last but not least: cuticle oil. After all is said and done, there's a lot of
harsh tools and products we use on our hands and feet when we do a
manicure. Adding moisture back into our cuticles helps prevent
hangnails and promotes better growth and stronger nails.

21
How to use: You can use dedicated cuticle oil or olive oil if that's what
you have on hand. Use cuticle oil at the very end of your manicure. Dot
a small bit onto each cuticle, rub it in, and that's it!

Fig. 2.10.: Applying Cuticle oil

2.3. Pedicure

A pedicure is a therapeutic treatment for your feet that removes dead

skin, softens hard skin and shapes and treats your toenails. Think of it
as a manicure for the feet! A good foot treatment is heaven, but pedicure
techniques can vary from type of polish to massage.
Pedicures include care not only for the toenails; dead skin cells are
rubbed off the bottom of the feet using a rough stone (often a pumice
stone). Skin care is often provided up to the knee, including
granular exfoliation, moisturizing, and massage.

The word pedicure is derived from the Latin words pedis, which means
"of the foot", and cura, which means "care".
1. Basic Requirements:

i. A basin or a bucket for your feet

ii. A finger bowl
iii. Warm soapy water

iv. Cuticle oil/ Olive oil

v. Hand Cream
vi. Foot Cream

vii. Nail Polish (optional)

2. Procedure for Pedicure:

Once you have all supplies you will proceed with your manicure or
pedicure service.
The Supplies required are as follows:

22
  non-acetone nail polish remover and cotton balls
 nail file

 buffing block
 sugar scrub to exfoliate
 orangewood stick

 cuticle oil
 moisturizer
 nail polish (base coat, color, and top coat)

Fig. 2.11.: Pedicure chair set

(i) Soak Feet:

Your pedicure will begin with a relaxing soak for your feet in warm water.
Most likely, you will get a bubbling foot bath that may have a product
added to the water to help soften the tough skin and calluses on your
heels and toes as well as your cuticles. Plus, the soak will clean your
feet, giving them a fresh scent.
(ii) Remove Polish:

Next, your technician will remove any polish that you are wearing. You
will be asked to remove each foot from the water, and the technician will
pat it dry. Professional nail polish remover made of pure acetone works
quickly and removes even the toughest colors, such as bright red.

23
 Fig. 2.12.: Soaking the feet
(iii) Trim and File Nails:

Now that your nails are softened from the water and do not have on thick
coats of polish, your nail technician can work on shaping them. Toenails
usually sport a straight or square shape that is cut fairly close to your
toes to prevent snagging on socks.

Fig. 2.13.: Filing the nails

However, your technician will work carefully to ensure that nails are long
enough to prevent your surrounding skin from becoming painful or
inflamed around the edges. He or she will then file your nails with quick
one-way motions from the edge to the center of each nail to eliminate
breakage.

24
(iv) Push Back Cuticles:

Your feet will continue to soak between each step, allowing your cuticles
that grow along the lower edges of your nails to soften. Your technician
will once again remove one foot at a time from the foot bath, patting it
dry before using a drop of cuticle softener on each nail. Cuticle softeners
are often made from oil. Cuticles should never be cut but are only
pushed back with a stick.
(v) Exfoliate Feet:

Now it is time to exfoliate the dead skin from your feet. This process will
go quickly if you have been getting regular pedicures. However, it may
take longer if you have not been in to the salon recently.

Fig. 2.14.: Exfoliating using Pumice stone

Your technician may use a variety of tools for this task, such as a
pumice stone and a foot file designed specifically for calluses. By
working quickly, your technician will minimize tickling sensations on your
feet.
(vi) Massage Feet:

A final exfoliating scrub is rubbed on your feet and calves to remove the
last remnants of dead skin.
(vii) Rinse Feet:

Your feet will be rinsed a final time to get the scrub off and ready your
toes for the final steps.
(viii) Massage Feet and Calves:

Now it is time for the fun and super relaxing parts of your pedicure. Once
your feet are totally dry, your technician, will slowly massage a special
lotion or cream into your skin. You can ask for a fragrance-free version if

25
necessary. This massage will help loosen tight muscles and all of the
tiny joints in your feet.
(ix) Buff or Paint Nails:

Fig. 2.15: Applying nail polish on the nails

2.4. Massage of Pedicure

Foot and leg massage procedure:

1. Rub body cream in between the hands to warm up. Spread the
cream across the foot and the calf of one leg.

26
2. Wrap the calf with both hands and lightly stroke 6 times or until it
feels warm in the hands.

3. Firmly push up the entire calf with the nuckles of the hand. Repeat 6
times.

4. Massage the long muscle just outside of the shinbone in a circular

motion with the thumb. Repeat 3 times.

5. Push up the sole of the foot firmly with the thumb. Start from just
above the heel and finish in between each toes.

27
6. Rub the arch firmly in a circular motion.

28
7. Massage the ball of the foot.

8. Massage the toes.

9. Repeat steps 1 to 8 on the other leg and foot.

10. Wipe the excess cream off with a hot towel.

29
2.5. Manicure

Manicure a cosmetic treatment of the hands and fingernails, including

trimming and polishing of the nails and removing cuticles. The English
word manicure comes from the French word manucure, meaning "care
of the hands", which in turn originates from the Latin words manus, for
"hand", and cura, for "care".
Things needed:

 Anti-Bacterial Spray/Soap

 Fine Emery Board

 Nail Cutter (Optional)
 Cuticle Cream
 Orange Wood Sticks
 Cotton Wool
 Disinfecting Fluid e.g. Barbicide (Optional)

 Hand Lotion
 Nail Polish Remover
 Lint Free Wipes

 Base Coat
 Nail Polish
 Top Coat
Step One: Preparation

 If you are working on clients, it‘s important to make sure that you
sanitize their hands before you start. It is recommended that you
spray both of their hands and arms with an anti-bacterial
spray and use a piece of cotton wool to wipe over.

30
  Ensure that your hands are completely dry before proceeding
further.
 Clip the nails of the customer.
Step Two: Filing

The first thing that you want to do in your professional manicure is to file
the nails. Start with one hand and use a fine Emery Board. You want to
make sure that it‘s not too rough for the natural nails.
 When you file natural nails, it‘s important to start on one side and
file in one direction heading towards the center.
 And then repeat this from the other side of the nail with direction
back to the center. This is to prevent the nail from breaking and
splitting.
 It‘s good to use the full length of the nail file while you do this. If
you do file back and forth in a soaring action, this will cause the
nails to weaken and split.
 If you are working on nails with a lot of length that you want to
remove, you can clip the nail before you start with a nail cutter.

 You can also Bevel the nails to remove excess bits of nail along
the edges. Bevelling is where you file downwards with your nail
file to remove any excess.

Step Three: Apply Cuticle Cream/ oil

 The next step is to apply Cuticle Cream to the Cuticles. This will
help to soften the cuticles before you put them in the hand bowl
to soak.
 Next, dip an Orange Wood Stick into your Cuticle Cream so that
you can apply it to the nails.

31
  Dot a little bit of the cream along the cuticles on every finger and
then go into massage the cream into the cuticles applying firm
pressure.

Step Four: Soak

 You are now going to need a nail bowl that‘s been filled up with
warm water and a little bit of hand soap. If you are doing this on
yourself at home you can just use any old regular bowl.
 Take the clients/your hand and place it into the bowl. Allow the
hand to soak for a couple of minutes in the bowl.
 If you‘re working on a client, whilst the hand is soaking, you can
then start to perform steps one through to three on the other
hand.
 By the time you‘ve repeated that process on the second hand,
the first hand will be ready to come out of the water.

 Once you have removed the first hand, place the second hand
into the bowl and let that soak.
 Whilst the second hand is soaking, place the first hand onto a dry
towel to dry off the fingertips. You also want to massage the
cuticle cream in to the nails to reinforce and ensure it penetrates
the nail.

 So at this stage, you‘ve removed the first hand from the bowl,
thoroughly dried it off and also reinforced the cuticle cream.

32
Step Five: Push Back the Cuticles

 Next, you are going to push back the cuticles using an Orange
Wood Stick wrapped in Cotton Wool.
 The reason for the Cotton Wool is because if you use just the
orange wood stick on its own, its too harsh and you can cause
pain to your client/yourself.
 To wrap the stick, open up a Cotton Wall pad, and twisting the
Orange Wood Stick into the Cotton Wool like Candy Floss.

 This Cotton Wool will just provide a bit more protection for the
clients/ your own fingertips
 Now, using the Orange Wood Stick, you‘re now going to gently
push back the cuticles.
 By pushing back the cuticles this will enable the finished nails to
look a lot better. The polish application will also be a lot easier.

 You‘ll find that the nail plate appears a little bit longer once you
have pushed the cuticles back effectively.
 Now, use a pair of Cuticle Nippers to tidy any excess cuticle you
have. Be very careful with these nippers to avoid nipping your
client yourself.

 Only remove any excess cuticle if there is any present. If you are
working on neat cuticles, you may not have to remove much if
any at all.

 Be careful and just remove any excess cuticle. Again this will just
make your polish look much better when finished.
 The other thing you‘re looking to remove with the cuticle nippers
are any loose bits of skin that hang off at the side of the nail.
These are known as Hang Nails. You want to nip those to ensure
they have been removed.

33
Step Six: Repeat for the Second Hand

The next thing to do is to remove the second hand from the soaking
bowl. Again dry the fingertips thoroughly with a dry towel and massage
the cuticles.
So you‘ve repeated the process from the first hand on the second hand.
By now you have:
1. Cleansed both hands
2. Filed both hands

3. Applied Cuticle Cream

4. Pushed the cuticles back and
5. Removed any excess Cuticle
Step Seven: Massage
Now, its time to move onto a hand and arm massage. This is nice for
you to be able to perform on your clients, yourself at home or on your
partner, friends and family. It‘s nice to know some basic massage
movements that you can add to your manicure to make it professional.
Start by massaging the Lotion into your own hands to start to warm it up.
Make sure the clients arm and elbow is supported – the client shouldn‘t
behaving to hold her hand up herself. By supporting it, your client
becomes fully relaxed. You‘re now ready for polishing!

Step Eight: Use Nail Polish Remover

 Before you polish the nails, it‘s important that you remove any
grease from the creams and oils that you‘ve used as part of the
manicure.

34
  So to do that, its best to use a Natural Nail Polish Remover on
a Cotton Ball and go over all of the nails.
 In my manicures, always use Lint Free Wipes – this is because
Cotton Wool can be quite fluffy and it can be left on the nail. This
will then show up as part of a polish. The lint-free wipes make
sure that nothing is left on the surface at the nail.
 Always use an Acetone-free nail polish remover when working on
natural nails. This ensures less damage to the nails.

 Just go over each nail, give it a good rub on top and underneath
of the nail to make sure nothing‘s on there that will affect the
polish.
Step Nine: Apply a Base Coat

 Before you go ahead and put your polish on it‘s important that
you apply a Base Coat.
 The reason you want to use a Base Coat is to prevent any
staining to the nail from your polishes. This is particularly
important if you use a red nail polish or a dark polish. These are
known to cause staining to the nail plate.
 With your Base coat, and just like any bottle of polish, try to keep
the bottle in your hand.

 Support the finger you want to paint with your thumb little finger.
Apply the Base Coat to all of the nail plate. You are going to want
to repeat this on all five nails.
Step Ten: Paint Your Nails
 The reason I‘ve chosen a red to paint in this tutorial is because if
you can learn to polish with a red or a dark color, then you can
learn to polish with any color. This is because a red/dark color
will show up any imperfections.
 Now, dip your brush into the polish, wipe one side completely
and halfway down on the other side of the polish bottle rim. I‘ve
found that this is about the right amount to cover the nail.
 The first coat that you do is purely a guide to cover the nail.

 So place your brush into the middle of the nail plate and push
down towards the cuticle. This is to try and ensure a nice smile
line and then pull back.

35
  You don‘t want to go too close to the cuticle because you want to
avoid flooding the cuticle so that it looks nice and neat.
 And you‘re trying to apply in three coats.
 When you‘ve done the whole nail plate, cap the free edge. This is
to prevent against chipping.
 So again, go in the middle of the nail plate and push down
towards the cuticle. You want a hairline gap between the polish
and the cuticle.

 Don‘t worry too much if you got any nail polish around the skin of
the nail; that can be removed.
 Remember to place your brush in the center of the nail plate,
push towards the cuticle and pull back.
 A good polish application should have a hairline gap between the
polish and the cuticle at the end, a nice smile line, and it should
be smooth without any bubbles.
 You always do two coats of any color polish.
 That will be your first coat on the first hand. You will then then
move over to the second hand and apply the first coat on that
hand using the process outlined above.
 Now, you will need to apply the second coat of polish. This is to
ensure that you get the coverage and ensure that the final look is
slick.
Step Eleven: Apply a Topcoat

 Once you have finished the second coat on all ten fingers you
will now finish with the Topcoat.
 The Topcoat is also very good at providing a high shine finish.

 Ensure that you cover everywhere that you‘ve polished.

36
Step Eleven: Tidying Up

 At the end of the manicure, when you finish your polish, if you
find that there‘s any polish around the nail or on the skin that you
need to tidy up, here‘s what you need to do.
 Apply a Cotton Wool wrap around the end of an Orange Wood
Stick and dip it into Nail Polish Remover.
 You can then use this as an eraser to get rid of any little bits of
nail polish. So just gently work around the nail on the skin. There
might be little bits under the free edge, so be sure to clean them
up. This will ensure that your look is complete at the end of the
manicure.
 To finalize, you just need to apply Topcoat to the second hand
and that is your professional Manicure complete!

2.6. Massages of Manicure

Step 1:
Using the Hand Cream, apply enough cream on the hands and arms
and smear the cream upwards in long motions.
TIP: Pamper your clients with the extra softness and the relaxing aroma
of ProNails Manicure Massage Candle.
Step 2:

Take the hand, palm facing upwards, in your left hand and massage the
whole hand and forearm with gentle pressure movements. Use the palm
of your hand as well as your fingertips. Now tum over the hand and
repeat the same procedure on the other side.

37
Step 3:

Open the palm and massage in circular movements with your thumbs,
starting in the middle and working your way towards the sides of the
palm.

Step 4:

Now turn over the hand and with your fingertips and thumbs rub two
fingers at a time, starting from the nail and moving towards the bad* of
the hand.

Step 5:

Once you have arrived at the back of the hand. continue the massage in
a pressing motion towards the heart with your two thumbs.

38
Step 6:

Spread the fingers carefully and perform circular motions.

Step 7:

Take the whole hand in your own hand and carefully turn the wrist from
left to right and repeat from right to left.

Step 8:
Finish off with long, soft relaxing movements over hands and arms
towards the heart.

Again you should be doing the work for the client, they should be fully
relaxed. You then would repeat those massage movements on the other
hand and arm.

39
Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. Manicures and pedicures help ________________ your skin.

2. ____________________ tool is used to gently grind the edges of
your nail down to make them smooth.
3. The ______________ removes the outermost layer of dead skin and
calluses and are found on the bottom of the feet, especially the heel.
4. A _______________ is a therapeutic treatment for your feet that
removes dead skin, softens hard skin and shapes and treats your
toenails.

5. Cuticle softeners are often made from __________________.

6. The English word manicure comes from the French word manucure,
meaning __________________.
7. The loose bits of skin that hang off at the side of the nail is called
________________.
8. In the nails, the reason to use a Base Coat is to prevent any staining
to the nail from the _________________.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Introduction and Need for Pedicure and
Manicure, Tools for Pedicure and Manicure, Pedicure, Massage of
Pedicure, Manicure and Massage of Manicure.

40
Answers to Check Your Progress

1. exfoliate
2. Nail file
3. pumice stone
4. pedicure
5. oil
6. care of the hands
7. hang nails

8. nail polishes.

41
 Unit-3

Hair and Superfluous Hair

Structure

Overview
Objectives
3.1. Hair Growth Cycle

3.2. Introduction to Superfluous Hair

3.3. Causes of Superfluous Hair
3.4. Methods of Superfluous Hair Removal

3.5. Contraindications of Hair Removal

Check Your Progress
Let Us Sum Up

Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Hair Growth Cycle, Introduction to
Superfluous Hair, Causes of Superfluous Hair, Methods of Superfluous
Hair Removal and Contraindications of Hair Removal.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Hair Growth Cycle
 Introduction to Superfluous Hair
 Causes of Superfluous Hair
 Methods of Superfluous Hair Removal
 Contraindications of Hair Removal

3.1. Hair Growth Cycle

The growth and loss of hair may seem like a simple process, but the hair
growth cycle is actually composed of four distinct phases. These stages
of hair growth have been studied in great depth to better understand
how hair grows and what might be done to prevent or treat premature
hair loss.

42
The first three phases — anagen, catagen, and telogen cover the growth
and maturation of hair and the activity of the hair follicles that produce
individual hairs. During the final or exogen phase, ―old‖ hair sheds,
though usually, a new hair is getting ready to take its place.
Each phase has its own timeline, which can be affected by age, nutrition,
and overall health. That means there are steps you can take along the
way to help ensure that your hair follows a healthy growth cycle.

Fig. 3.1.: Hair growth Cycle

1. Anagen: Growing phase

The stages of hair growth begin with the anagen phase. It‘s the longest
phase, lasting about 3 to 5 years for the hairs on your head, though for
some people a single hair could continue growing for 7 or more years.
Fortunately, the anagen phase differs with different types of hair. For
example, the anagen phase for eyebrow hairs and pubic hairs is much
shorter than the phase for your scalp hairs.
During the anagen phase, your hair follicles are pushing out hairs that
will continue to grow until they‘re cut or until they reach the end of their
lifespan and fall out. At any time, about 90 percent trusted Source of the
hairs on your head are in the anagen phase.
2. Catagen: Transition phase

The catagen phase starts when the anagen phase ends, and tends to
last about 10 days or so. During this chapter, hair follicles shrink and hair
growth slows. The hair also separates from the bottom of the hair follicle,
yet remains in place during its final days of growing.

43
Only about 5 percent of the hairs on your head are in the catagen phase
at any given time.
3. Telogen: Resting phase

The telogen phase typically lasts around 3 months. An estimated 10 to

15 percent of your scalp hairs are in this phase. Hairs don‘t grow during
the telogen phase, but they don‘t usually fall out either. The telogen
phase is also when new hairs start to form in follicles that have just
released hairs during the catagen phase.

Some health experts consider the telogen phase the shedding phase, as
well, but many scientists have divided this stage into two parts: the
telogen and exogen stages.
4. Exogen: Shedding phase

The exogen phase is essentially an extension or a part of the telogen

stage of hair growth. During the exogen phase, hair is shed from the
scalp, often helped along by washing and brushing. Losing 50 to 100
hairs per day during the exogen phase is normal.
During the exogen phase, which can last about 2 to 5 months, new hairs
are growing in the follicles as old hairs fall away.

3.2. Introduction to Superfluous Hair

Hirsuties or Hypertrichosis:

Hirsuties or hypertrichosis are terms that refer to the growth of an

unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only
downy hair, such as the faces of women. Hair removal is a treatment to
be given for unwanted hair known as superfluous hair. It is a industry not
in India but all over the world minting money with various methods to
remove superfluous hair. Unwanted or overly abundant hair is a
common problem that affects both men and women, for women
fortunately a variety of hair removal methods are available, ranging from
the fairly simple procedures of shaving and tweezing to more complex
procedures that required special training. By understanding these
methods and their effects, hair-removal specialists will be able to offer
sound advice to clients, explain the problems clients may be having with
their home hair-removal methods, and steer clients toward methods
better suited to the client's needs. Two major types of hair removal
techniques are in use today: permanent and temporary. Salon
techniques are generally limited to temporary methods.
Hair grows all over the surface of the body, with the exception of the
palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. With age, the hair may

44
become coarser and darker. The technical name for a superfluous hair is
mypertrichosis. A problem that is particularly apparent on the upper lip
and chin.

3.3. Causes of Superfluous Hair

(a) Racial Factor:

People belonging to different races have different hair growth, e.g.

Japanese and Chinese have very sparse hair growth
(b) Hormonal Factor:

Females have both male and female hormones in their body. But if they
have more male hormones, then they have more hair growth.
(c) Hereditary Factor:

This is also one of the causes for having excess hair growth Endocrine
disorder. Due to endocrine disorder young people may have excess hair
on their body and face.
(d) Menopause:

At the time of menopause females develop hormonal imbalance which

can lead to excess of hair growth.

3.4. Methods of Superfluous Hair Removal

There are many ways of removing unwanted hair. Methods of hair

removal fall into two categories:

(i) depilation and

(ii) epilation
(i) Depilation:

Methods of depilation are as follows.

(a) Abrasive paper
(b) Pumice stone

(c) Shaving
(d) Depilatory creams
This method removes the hair from skin top only.
(a) Abrasive paper: In this method abrasive paper is rubbed against the
skin for removing hair. This method was used in the early times. This
method leaves cuts on the skin. This is not used now.

45
(b) Pumice stone: It is a porous stone which removes hair from skin top
only. It is a very slow process of removing hair. It is never used in beauty
parlours for removing unwanted hair. By this method hair on legs and
arms can be removed. Soap is applied on place where hair is to be
removed by using pumic stone. That is why this method is used while
taking bath.
Pumice stone is always used in a circular movement. Never use pumice
stone at one place for long as it can cause rashes.
Pumice stone comes in many shapes - Square, triangular, oval, etc. It
is never used to remove facial hair.
(c) Shaving: It chops the hair at the surface of the skin, leaving a blunt
edge, which quickly feels scratchy and prickly, and so it is not
recommended for the face.
There is, however, no truth in the notion that shaving makes the hair
grow back thicker or faster but to keep the skin smooth, it is generally
necessary to shave at least once or twice a week. Provided the razor is
sharp and carefully handled and the skin is well wetted and primed with
soap. This method gives quick, smooth results with the minimum of
expenditure and is particularly suitable for under arms and legs.
Special models of shavers designed especially for the female body hair
are also available. Otherwise razors are of two types:
(i) Manual razor
(ii) Electric razor

Electric razors give good results. Apply a body lotion or cream after
using a razor.
(d) Depilatory creams: Depilatories are chemicals that dissolve the hair
so that it can be wiped or washed away. Because they are applied to the
skin, care must be taken so that they do not dissolve the skin as well:
They can be used over large and small areas. Some products are made
for use on the face and others for use on other part of the body. Be
extremely careful when using a depilatory cream on the face. Never put
a depilatory cream near the eyes. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions very carefully.
Some people are allergic to many products. Always perform an allergy
test of 24 hours prior to applying a depilatory cream. To take this test,
apply a small amount of depilatory cream behind the ear. Leave it on for
15 minutes and then remove. If there is no positive reaction (redness or
swelling) after 24 hours, proceed with the treatment.

46
(ii) Epilation:

It means that the hair is removed below the skin. Hair is removed from
the roots. The various methods of epilation are:
(a) Tweezing
(b) Threading
(c) Waxing
(a) Tweezing: This is an excellent way of removing small amounts of
individual hair. Tweezers are most often used to shape the eyebrows,
but they can be used elsewhere to remove scattered hairs. Tweezers
come in a variety of designs.

Fig. 3.2.: Types of Tweezers

(b) Threading: This method is also used to remove small amounts of

hair. This is usually used to shape the eyebrows, removing hair from
upper lip, chin, and forehead and removing scattered hair form
elsewhere. A thick thread usually 40 number is used to remove hair.
(c) Waxing: This is an effective method for removing unwanted hair in
large and small areas. There are two types of waxes:
Hot Wax: This is basically a paraffin wax, which is heated and applied
when melted. This is directly heated on a heater and applied with a
wooden spatula in the direction of hair growth.
Cold Wax: This comes in a semisolid form in jars. It is made up of
sugar, citric acid/lemon juice. This is heated in a thermostatically
controlled warmer or indirectly on heat. It is applied with spatula in the
direction of hair growth.
The two type of waxes are applied and used in basically the same way.
The main difference is that cold wax is applied thinly and removed with
strips of cotton or muslin fabric which is rubbed over the wax. This wax
is usually used to remove hair from large area e.g. legs, arms and
underarm. Hot wax does not use these spilating strips. This wax must be
applied in thick layers so that there is enough to grasp when it is pulled

47
off. This wax is usually used to remove hair from small area e.g. upper
lips, eyebrows, chin, etc.

When using wax, be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions

carefully. If not done properly, waxing can be quite painful. It requires a
lot of practice to perfect your technique.
Eyebrow Plucking:

The operator places hot compresses on the eyebrows to warm the skin
and relax the pores in order to make plucking less painful and the hairs
easier to pull. She holds the skin taut between two fingers of the left
hand to stretch the skin and works between fingers sliding tweezers
under hairs and pulling quickly. She brushes from time to time with an
eyebrow brush to observe line and remove loose hairs.

3.5. Contraindications for Hair Removal

One of the main purposes of the client consultation is to determine the

presence of any contraindications for hair removal. Facial waxing or
tweezing should not be performed on those clients who have any of the
following conditions or treatments:

 Very sensitive skin / sunburn

 Presence of pustules or papules
 Recent botox or collagen injections
 Cosmetic or reconstructive surgery
In other certain conditions
 Retin-A, Renova, hydroquinone, or similar products

 Blood-thinning medications
 Topical or oral cortisone medication
 Accutane
Allergic test/Patch test:

People who have a severe physical reaction to a particular substance

that has no effect whatsoever on most other people are said to have an
allergy. Cosmetic dermatitis is the term used by dermatologists to
describe allergic reaction caused by the application of cosmetics. Some
chemicals will harm the skin of some people whereas it will not harm the
other's skin. Cosmetologist has to be very careful before using
chemicals on clients. She should always perform an allergy test before

48
using the chemicals. In bleaching we use chemicals so in this case
allergy test, a predisposition or a patch test should be performed.

Patch test/ Allergy test should be performed behind the ears or the
inside of the elbow. Prepare a bleach pack in a small quantity and
perform a allergy test 24 hours before giving a service because
sometimes it can take 24 hours to react. After performing an allergy test
if you find any redness, swelling or itching then don't do bleaching on the
client.

Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. In the growth of hair, __________________ phase is the longest
phase that lasts for about 3 to 5 years.
2. About ______________ % of the hairs on your head are in the
catagen phase at any given time.

3. Hairs don‘t grow during the __________________ phase.

4. During the _______________ phase, hair is shed from the scalp,
often helped along by washing and brushing.

5. _________________ are terms that refer to the growth of an unusual

amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair,
such as the faces of women.

6. Hair grows all over the surface of the body, with the exception of the
______________ of the hands and the _______________ of the feet.
7. _________________ are chemicals that dissolve the hair so that it
can be wiped or washed away.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Hair Growth Cycle, Introduction to
Superfluous Hair, Causes of Superfluous Hair, Methods of Superfluous
Hair Removal and Contraindications of Hair Removal.

49
Answers to Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. anagen
2. 5 percent
3. telogen
4. exogen
5. Hirsuties or hypertrichosis
6. palms and soles

7. Depilatories

50
 Unit-4

Temporary Removal of Superfluous Hair

Structure

Overview
Objectives
4.1. Introduction

4.2. Depilatory method of Hair removal

4.3. Epilatory method of hair removal - Threading
4.4. Waxing

4.5. Laser and Thermolysis/ Electrolysis

4.6. Bleaching
Check Your Progress
Let Us Sum Up
Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Introduction to superfluous hair removal,
Depilatory method of Hair removal, Epilatory method of hair removal –
Threading, Waxing, Laser and Thermolysis/ Electrolysis, Bleaching and
its types.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Introduction to superfluous hair removal

 Depilatory method of Hair removal
 Epilatory method of hair removal

 Threading
 Waxing
 Laser and Thermolysis/ Electrolysis
 Bleaching

51
4.1. Introduction

As explained in the previous unit, there are two methods are used to
remove superfluous hair:
Depilatory method of hair removal
i) Shaving
ii) Depilatory cream
Epilatory method of hair removal

i) Threading

ii) Waxing
iii) Laser / Thermolysis / Electrolysis
In this Unit we will discuss about each one of the above method in detail.

4.2. Depilatory method of hair removal

1. Shaving:
Shaving is the most common method of removing unwanted hair by
men and women. However, more and more women are embracing the
benefits of professional hair removal and are switching from shaving to
waxing, electrolysis, or laser hair removal. Shaving is usually done with
a manual or an electric razor on skin that is either wet and lathered or
covered with a special foaming product.

Fig. 4.1.: Types of growth of hair visible on skin surface

Shaving is not only removes unwanted hair indiscriminately removes

finer vellus. Overtime, become terminal hair, thereby aggravating an
already undesirable condition. It's a fast, inexpensive, painless and
convenient treatment but hair grows back coarsely and more stubby in 1
to 4 days.
52
 Fig.4.2.: Shaving with razor
2. Depilatory cream:
Depilatory cream dissolves a hair just below the skin with the chemicals
calcium thioglycolate, sodium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide, agents
that dissolve the hair on cattle hides. The keratin in hair is broken down,
causing it to weaken and break away, broken hairs are washed away
with the depilatory product. New hair, may be visible soon after, but if
more depilatory product is applied to the area within a month, a skin
irritation can occur. It is relatively inexpensive, can be used in privacy
and when hair grows back, it is softer than that after shaving but the
results are not as long lasting as waxing, can have a nasty odor, can
cause skin reactions because protective barrier is compromised when
the depilatories are washed away.

4.3. Epilatory method of hair removal - Threading

Threading is technique that has been used by India, Pakistan, Iran,

Turkey, Egypt and Arabia. Threading is inexpensive treatment of hair
removal. The most popular areas for threading are the eye-brows,
hairline, the sideburns, the sides of face, the upper lip, the chin and
under the jaw. Threading is a good alternative for those unable to
tolerate waxing on the face due to prescription and other product but
ineffective for the large parts of the body. If it is not done carefully cuts or
bruises may occur and can give pain and scars on the skin.
The thread should be a strong, cotton, household thread, clean and
sterilized. The thread should range in length from 24" cut to 30" cut. The
shorter threads are easier to control when learning and developing the
skill, and they are also better for practitioners with small hands. As the
practitioner becomes more skilled, a larger loop of thread is more
manageable.
53
1. Eye Brown Arching:

The correct shape of the eyebrows has a marked effect on the beauty
and contour of the face shaping and is important features of the face.
The entire expression can be changed by the eyebrow line and eyebrow
forms a significant point of structure in facial composition and it is work
of beauty expert to relate the structure to help emphasise good points
and detract bad points.

Wrong Right

Fig. 4.3.: Eyebrow arching

The natural arch or the growth of the hair follows the bony structure or
the curved line of the orbit (eye socket). The majority of persons have
disorderly growth of hair both above and below the natural line. These
hairs should be removed to give a clean cut and attractive appearance.
2. Implements and materials for eyebrow arching:
 Emolient cream
 Cotton
 Eyebrow pencil
 Eyebrow brush

 Thread
 Astringent lotion
 Cleansing tissue

54
  Tweezer
3. Measuring the eyebrow to decide length:

In order to determine the correct length of eyebrows, there are three

main guidelines:
i. Place an orange stick beside the nose and the inside comer of
the eye. This is usually in line with the tear duct. Any hairs that
grow between the eyes and beyond this point should be
removed. If the client has a very broad nose, however, this guide
is inappropriate: tweezing would commence near the middle of
the brow. In this instance, use the tear duct at the inside comer of
the eye as a guide.

ii. Place an orange stick in a line from the base of the nose (to the
side of the nostril) to the outer comer of the eye. Any hairs that
grow beyond this point should be removed.
iii. Place an orange stick in a vertical line from the centre of the
eyelid. This is where the highest point of the arc should be.

Fig. 4.4.: Judging of the brow

Fig. 4.5.: Correct placing and shaping the eyebrows

55
4. Preparing the Patron for Eyebrow Arching:

 Seat the patron on facial chair in reclining position.

 Select type of arc according to the face shape and customers

liking, suitable for her facial characteristics.
 Cover patron's eyes with cotton pads moistened with antiseptic
lotion.
 Brush the brows to remove powder and scales. Brows around
the surrounding skin may be softened by rubbing emollient
cream into them.
 Remove hair between brows and above brow line, when
gradually proceed under the line. Extra care has to be taken
while working under the brows. Stretch under and above the
brows to maintain the tension.
 While working for thick growth it is advisable to use tweezer
simultaneously to avoid cuts or bruises.
Use these guidelines when defining the eyebrow shape:
1. Start

2. Point of arch
3. End point of eyebrow

Fig. 4.6.: Guidelines for eyebrow shape

5. Eyebrow shaping:

The entire expression can be changed by the eyebrow line. Select

shape falls into the following categories as illustrated.
High Forehead: The eyebrow arch is slightly elevated to direct from the

56
high forehead.
Low Forehead: A low arch gives more height to the very low forehead.

Wide Set Eyes: The eyes can be made to appear closer together by
extending the eyebrow line to the inside corner of the eyes.
Close Set Eyes: To make the appear farther apart space brows. Farther
the distance by widening the distance between them also slightly extend
the brows outward.
Round Face: Arch the brows to make the face seem narrower. Start
online directly above inside cover of eye and extend to ends of been
pulled out leaving little spots in the brows darken them with the pencil.
Using the eyebrow brush over is to soften the pencil mark.
Where the Arch is too High: Remove the superfluous hairs from the
top of the brow and fill the part from the top of the brows.
Where Arch is too Low: Remove the superfluous hair from the
lower part of the brow and build up the shape of the brow by means of
the brow pencil.

Fig. 4.7.: Types of eyebrow shapes

57
6. Precautions and Reminders:

 It is inexpensive treatment and discomfort level is usually less

than the waxing / tweezing but it is ineffective for the large parts
of the body.
 It can be uncomfortable because the hair are snagged out of the
skin faster than tweezing but more slowly than waxing.
7. Threading Contraindications:

 Broken, irritated skin

 Active eczema and psoriasis

 Active herpes lesion
 Sunburned skin

4.4. Waxing

There are two major methods of waxing for hair removal. One is hard
wax, also known as the non-strip method. The other major wax method
is the hot wax or strip method. This can include the honey-textured
waxes and crème waxes. In addition to those waxes, there are various
varieties in between, such as cold wax and sugar wax, and many with
soothing additives.
1. Waxing Contraindications:
If the client has any of the following, wax depilation must not be carried
out: Skin disorders, such as bruising or recent hemorrhage.
 Loss of skin sensation
 Cuts I Abrasions

 Bruises
 Warts
2. Types of waxes:

Warm waxes are frequently made of mixtures of sugar syrup and zinc
oxide are also called honey wax.
Hot wax: It is relatively slow to use and used at quite a high
temperature, extra care to must be taken to avoid bums.
Sugar wax: There are two methods of sugar wax hair removal- sugar
paste and strip sugar. Sugar paste is applied to the skin, using the
hands, in the direction of hair growth. The hairs embed in the wax, which
is then removed swiftly against hair growth, removing the hairs. Strip

58
sugar is similar in application and removal to warm wax and requires a
wax removal strip to remove the wax, against hair growth. Sugar wax
has pure sugar as the main ingredient, plus other natural ingredients
such as lemon.
3. Equipment and Materials:

 Room with privacy

 Table / Stool
 Antiseptic cleanser and towel

 Washable drapes for the client

 Applicator / Spatula
 Pretreatment lotion / Antiseptic lotion

 Dusting powder
 Ice cubes
 Soothing lotion
 Cotton
 Wax heater
 Waxing strips (disposable)
Good lighting is essential to a waxing treatment area. Fluorescent lights
are the brightest and most economical with music because music makes
a treatment most pleasurable. Wax heater are usually thermostatically
controlled, but the wax should be always be tested on the skin of the
technician on the inner forearms before its application on the client.
Make sure the table is at a comfortable height for working, check the
posture and make sure you do not bend over, maintain safe distance
with client.
4. Procedure:

 Use a towel to protect the client's remaining clothing.

 Wipe the area to be waxed with a professional antiseptic pre-wax
cleansing lotion on cotton wool. Blot the area dry with tissues
before applying the wax. While wiping the skin, look for contra-
indications.
 If the client's skin is very greasy (she may for example have
applied oil before coming to the clinic), cleanse it using an
astringent lotion. Use dusting powder with cotton wool on the

59
 treatment area before the application of wax.
 Apply wax on the area which is to be treated in the same
direction of hair and press the disposable strip, with stretching
the skin and pull the strip with sudden tug in the opposite
direction of the hair.

 An after-wax lotion should be applied, using clean cotton wool, at

the end of the treatment. This breaks down any waxy residue,
helps to guard against infection and irritation, and takes away
any feelings of discomfort.

Fig. 4.8.: Apply wax in the same direction of hair

Fig. 4.9.: Removal of Strip

60
 Fig. 4.10.: While waxing on upper lip it is required to understand
the direction of hair growth of upper lips

Fig. 4.11.: Use of wax on upper lips

5. Hygiene and Sanitation:

 Use disposable equipment where possible to avoid cross-

infection. Wear protective gloves during the treatment.
 Clients should not apply perfumed products to the area that was
waxed for at least 24 hours.
 A clean and sanitary environment is not only important to meet
stated requirements, it inspires client confidence. As the client
leaves the room, tools should be washed with a germicidal soap
and put in the sterilization unit. Wipe down surfaces and bottles
with a disinfectant cleaner.
Points to remember:

 Hot wax is always applied in the direction of hair growth and

removed against hair growth.
 It is always better to work from lesser hair growth to denser hair

61
 growth.
 The wax should not be applied to a greater area than is going to
be immediately removed.
 The strips should not end where there is still wax.
 The strip should be place over the wax, always allowing a
sufficient free edge to grasp easily.
 Once the strip is place over the wax, it is only needs to be
smoothed or rubbed once or twice to adhere to the wax and be
effective.
 Do not prolong the anticipated moment of discomfort by excess
rubbing.

 The pull of the strip should always be against the hair growth. It
should be quick and decisive and as close to the skin as possible
for minimal discomfort.

4.5. Laser and Thermolysis/ Electrolysis

1. Laser Hair Removal:

Laser is a new method for the rapid, gentle removal of unwanted hair.
The term laser is an acronym for light amplification by stimulated
emission of radiation. Laser has the strength to pierce nature's hardest
substance, the diamond, to perform orthodontic procedures on the
gums. The laser was the first introduced as a method of hair removal
after 1980s. It was noted that birthmarks treated with certain types of
lasers became permanently devoid of hair. Lasers are not for everyone;
the absolute requirement is that one's hair must be darker than the
surrounding skin. Coarse, dark hair responds best to laser treatment.
For some clients, this method brings truly permanent results. The laser
can also slow down regrowth. Whereas electrolysis works on a hair-by-
hair basis, laser uses a wide beam that can treat multiple hairs at once.
Laser hair removal is based on the principle of selective photo-
thermolysis which is the selective targeting of an area using a specific
wavelength to absorb light into that target area sufficient to damage the
target tissue while allowing the surrounding area to remain relatively
untouched.
2. Thermolysis/ Electrolysis

Electrolysis is the removal of hair by means of an electric current that

destroys the root of the hair. The current is applied with a very fine,
needle shaped electrode that is inserted into each hair follicle. This

62
technique can be painful, time-consuming, and expensive, and must be
performed only by a licensed electrologist.

Fig. 4.12.: Implements and materials for Laser Hair removal

Thermolysis takes its name from the Greek word thermo, meaning heat,
and Ysis, meaning to dissolve. It is also commonly called diathermy, a
more outdated term; (high frequency). The facts that it is fast and
effective and relatively easy to learn make it popular method. There are
three types of thermolysis machine:-
1. Manual
2. Semi-Manual
3. Computerized

4.6. Bleaching

Bleaching is a temporary solution to facial hair which will disguise rather

than remove hair. Avoid bleach if you have a lot of upper lip hair as it
may tum the hair yellow. Facial hair bleach usually comes as a powder
and cream, which should be mixed together before applying. Clean the
area with diluted surgical spirit. Dry the skin and apply the bleach in a
thick layer. Leave on for 10 minutes before removing with damp cotton
wool pads. Finally, apply a light antiseptic cream. The details of
Bleaching and its procedure are explained in Unit-7.

Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. ____________ is the most common method of removing unwanted

hair by men and women.

63
2. The _____________ in hair is broken down, causing it to weaken and
break away, broken hairs are washed away with the depilatory product.
3. In the treading process, the thread should range in length from
___________ cut to __________ cut.
4. The eyes can be made to appear closer together by extending the
eyebrow line to the _______________ of the eyes.
5. The hard wax method of waxing is also known as the
________________.
6. Clients should not apply perfumed products to the area that was
waxed for at least ____________ hours.
7. _____________ wax is always applied in the direction of hair growth
and removed against hair growth.
8. _______________ hair responds best to laser treatment.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Introduction to superfluous hair

removal, Depilatory method of Hair removal, Epilatory method of hair
removal – Threading, Waxing, Laser and Thermolysis/ Electrolysis,
Bleaching.

64
Answers to Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. Shaving
2. keratin
3. 24" and 30"
4. inside corner
5. non-strip method
6. 24

7. Hot
8. Coarse, dark

65
 Unit-5

Basic Hair Styling

Structure

Overview
Objectives
5.1. Hair styling and its components

5.2. Hair Styling Products

5.3. Hair Styling Tools
5.4. Principles of Design and types of Styling

5.5. Backcombing and Backbrushing

5.6. Formal Hair Styles
5.7. Wet Hairstyling
5.8. Hair Dressing
Check Your Progress
Let Us Sum Up

Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Hair styling and its components, Hair
Styling Products, Hair Styling Tools, Principles of Design and types of
Styling, Backcombing and Backbrushing, Formal Hair Styles, Wet
Hairstyling and Hair Dressing.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Hair styling and its components

 Hair Styling Products

 Hair Styling Tools
 Principles of Design and types of Styling
 Backcombing and Backbrushing
 Formal Hair Styles
 Wet Hairstyling and Hair Dressing

66
5.1. Hair styling and its components

A hairstyle, hairdo, or haircut refers to the styling of hair, usually on

the human scalp. Sometimes, this could also mean an editing of facial or
body hair. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect
of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics.
Hair styling includes setting and styling using some cosmetics and
specific hair combing techniques. Curling and straightening are also
used for styling the hair.

A hairstyle is achieved by arranging hair in a certain way, occasionally

using combs, a blow-dryer, gel, or other products. The practice of styling
hair is often called hairdressing, especially when done as an occupation.
Hairstyling may also include adding accessories (such as headbands,
slide etc.) to the hair to hold it in place, enhance its ornamental
appearance, or partially or fully conceal it with coverings such as
a kippa, hijab, tam or turban.
Hair dressing may include cuts, weaves, coloring, extensions, perms,
permanent relaxers, curling, and any other form of styling or texturing.
1. Washing:
Stylists often wash hair first, so that the hair is cut while still slightly
damp. Compared to dry hair, wet hair can be easier to manage in a
cut/style situation because the added weight and surface tension of the
water cause the strands to stretch downward and cling together along
the hair's length, holding a line and making it easier for the stylist to
create a form. It is important to note that this method of cutting hair while
wet, may be most suitable (or common) for straight hair types. Curly,
kinky and other types of hair textures with considerable volume may
benefit from cutting while dry, as the hair is in a more natural state and
the hair can be cut evenly.
2. Cutting:

Hair cutting or hair trimming is intended to create or maintain a specific

shape and form. There are ways to trim one's own hair but usually
another person is enlisted to perform the process, as it is difficult to
maintain symmetry while cutting hair at the back of one's head.
Cutting hair is often done with hair clipper, scissors, and razors. Combs
and hair grips are often employed to isolate a section of hair which is
then trimmed.

67
3. Brushing and combing:

Brushes and combs are used to organize and untangle the hair,
encouraging all of the strands to lie in the same direction and removing
debris such as lint, dandruff, or hairs that have already shed from their
follicles but continue to cling to the other hairs.
There are all manner of detangling tools available in a wide variety of
price ranges. Combs come in all shapes and sizes and all manner of
materials including plastics, wood, and horn. Similarly, brushes also
come in all sizes and shapes, including various paddle shapes. Most
benefit from using some form of a wide tooth comb for detangling. Most
physicians advise against sharing hair care instruments like combs and
clips, to prevent spreading hair conditions like dandruff and head lice.
4. Drying:

 Hair dryers speed the drying process of hair by blowing air, which
is usually heated, over the wet hair shaft to accelerate the rate of
water evaporation.
 Excessive heat may increase the rate of shaft-splitting or other
damage to the hair. Hair dryer diffusers can be used to widen the
stream of air flow so it is weaker but covers a larger area of the
hair.

 Hair dryers can also be used as a tool to sculpt the hair to a very
slight degree. Proper technique involves aiming the dryer such
that the air does not blow onto the face or scalp, which can
cause burns.
 Other common hair drying techniques include towel drying and
air drying.
5. Braiding and updos:

Tight or frequent braiding may pull at the hair roots and cause traction
alopecia. Rubber bands with metal clasps or tight clips, which bend the
hair shaft at extreme angles, can have the same effect.
An updo is a hair style that involves arranging the hair so that it is
pointing up. It can be as simple as a ponytail, but is more commonly
associated with more elaborate styles intended for special occasions
such as a weddings.
If hair is pinned too tightly, or the whole updo slips causing pulling on the
hair in the follicle at the hair root, it can cause aggravation to the hair
follicle and result in headaches. Although some people of African

68
heritage may use braiding extensions (long term braiding hairstyle) as a
form of convenience and/or as a reflection of personal style, it is
important not to keep the braids up longer than needed to avoid hair
breakage or hair loss. Proper braiding technique and maintenance can
result in no hair damage even with repeated braid styles.
6. Curling and straightening:

Curling and straightening hair requires the stylist to use a curling rod or a
flat iron to get a desired look. These irons use heat to manipulate the
hair into a variety of waves, curls and reversing natural curls and
temporarily straightening the hair. Straightening or even curling hair can
damage it due to direct heat from the iron and applying chemicals
afterwards to keep its shape. There are irons that have a function to
straighten or curl hair even when its damp (from showering or wetting
the hair), but this requires more heat than the average iron
(temperatures can range from 300 to 450 degrees). Heat protection
sprays and hair-repairing shampoos and conditioners can protect hair
from damage caused by the direct heat from the irons.

5.2. Hair Styling Products

Hairstyling products have had a significant impact on the creation of

various hairstyles and trends. They includes the following:
1. Hair gel:

Fig. 5.1.: Hair styled with hair gel

Hair gel is a hairstyle product that is used to stiffen hair into a particular
hairstyle. The end result is similar to, but stronger than, those of hair
spray. Hair gel is most commonly used in the hairstyling of men, but it is
not gender specific. Hair gel can come in tubes, pots, small bags, or
even in a spray form.
2. Hair wax:

Hair wax is a thick hair styling product containing wax, which helps hold
hair in place. Unlike some products such as hair gel which leave the hair
hard in texture, hair wax leaves the hair pliable. Many manufacturers are

69
now releasing different versions of hair wax, such as pomade, putty,
glue, glypto, whip, and styling paste.
3. Hair mousse:

Hair mousse is a product added to hair for extra volume and shine. It is
most commonly produced as a cream, but can also be found as a spray.
Hair mousse adds volume without causing clumps or buildup. It is a
lighter alternative to hair gel. Mousse is generally applied to the roots of
damp hair before blow drying or styling. Mousse may also be used to
add definition to curls, or to add texture to hair for a beach blown effect.
4. Pomade:

Pomade is an oil based or water based product designed for slick and
tight hairstyles. Unlike hair spray and hair gel, pomade does not dry and
often takes several washes to remove. Grease-cutting shampoos and
deep-cleansing conditioners can be used to quicken the removal
process. Other methods of removal include the use of olive oil, dish
washing liquid, and lemon juice.

Fig. 5.2.: A small pot of hair pomade

Most oil based pomades contain petroleum jelly (and in fact, petroleum
jelly can be used alone as a pomade) and mineral oil, and many also
contain some sort of wax. They may also contain perfume and coloring
agents. A plethora of pomades are still in production today and vary in
factors such as weight, shine, and scent. The stiffest will have a higher
proportion of beeswax while the lightest may have a higher proportion of
oils.
5. Hair spray:

Hair spray is a common household aqueous solution which is used to

stiffen hair into a certain style. It was first developed and manufactured
in 1948 by Chase Products, based in Broadview, Illinois. Weaker than
hair gel or hair wax, it is sprayed directly onto the hair to hold styles for

70
long periods of time. It sprays evenly over the hair using
a pump or aerosol spray nozzle. The product may leave hair feeling
'crunchy' unless brushed out.
The active ingredients in hair spray are called polymers, which keep the
hair stiff and firm without snapping. Solvents, which make up most of the
content of the hairspray, are responsible for carrying these polymers in a
solution.
Originally, the solvent found in hair spray was a chlorofluorocarbon
(CFC). CFCs are nontoxic, nonflammable, and make almost
ideal aerosol propellants. However, when research concluded that CFCs
cause destruction of stratospheric ozone, they were replaced with other
solvents, such as alcohols and hydrocarbons.[9]
One of the polymers used in hair spray is polyvinylpyrrolidone, which is
water-soluble. The non-water-soluble polymer polydimethylsiloxane is
added to make the hold last a bit longer. Some less common polymers
found in hair spray include copolymers with vinyl acetate and
copolymers with maleic anhydride.

Some hair sprays use natural polymers and solvents like vegetable
gums dissolved in alcohol. One popular ingredient in natural hair sprays
is gum arabic, which is made from the sap of various species of
the acacia tree. Gum tragacanth is another herbal gum that is used to
stiffen calico and crepe, as well as hair.
6. Hair volumizer:

Hair volumizers are used to temporarily add volume, body and shine to
thin or flat hair. Hair volumizers are used by both men and women. Men
turn to hair volumizers to make their hair look more dense. Volumizers
come in many forms such as shampoos, conditioners, sprays, pomades
and lotions.
Hair volumizers contain humectants, which work by attracting moisture
from the surrounding areas to the hair strand, thereby swelling the hair
and making it look thicker. Various polymers present in the volumizer
coat the hair strand, making it look thicker and shiny.

Shampoo and conditioner forms of the volumizers are used just like
ordinary shampoo or conditioners. The spray and lotion form of
volumizers are used on damp hair near the roots of the hair. In order to
use a hair volumizer, the person using the product must flip their head
downward and gradually blow dry the hair, with the air being blown along
the shaft of the hair until the hair is dry. Drying the hair in this position
will increase volume and achieve the desired effect.
71
While the hairstyling products listed above are the most commonly used,
there are other types of products as well. Serums, leave-in
conditioner, clays, hair tonic, hair dry powder shampoo, and heat
protection sprays are frequently used hairstyling products in salons and
homes across the country.

5.3. Hair Styling Tools

Hairstyling tools may include hair irons (including flat and curling irons),
hair dryers, hairbrushes (both flat and round), hair rollers, diffusers and
various types of scissors.
Hair dressing might also include the use of product to add texture, shine,
curl, volume or hold to a particular style.
Hair styling equipment which helps in creating hairstyles includes the
following:
1. Hair irons:

Fig. 5.3.: Early hair tongs

A hair iron is a tool used to change the structure of the hair with the help
of heat. There are three general kinds: curling tongs, also known as
curling irons, used to make the hair curly; straighteners, also known as
flat irons, used to straighten the hair; and crimpers,[4] used to create
small crimps in the hair.
2. Hair dryers:

A hand dryer, hairdryer, or blowdryer is an electromechanical device

designed to blow cool or hot air over wet or damp hair, in order to
accelerate the evaporation of water particles and dry the hair.
Blowdryers allow to better control the shape and style of hair, by
accelerating and controlling the formation of temporary hydrogen

72
bonds inside each strand. These hydrogen bonds are very powerful
(allowing for stronger hair shaping than even the sulfur bonds formed
by permanent waving products), but are temporary and extremely
vulnerable to humidity. They disappear with a single washing of the hair.

Fig. 5.4.: Modern-day blowdryer

3. Hairbrushes:

Fig. 5.5.: A flat hairbrush is used to detangle unkempt hair

Fig. 5.6.: A round hairbrush is used to style hair for neat and tidy
hair, medium length, with a blow-dryer

73
A brush is typically used on longer hair but can still be used for shorter
hair, which is normally dealt with using a comb. A flat brush is normally
used for detangling neat and tidy hair, after a sleep; a round brush for
styling and curling hair, especially by a professional stylist, and with
a blowdryer. A paddle brush is used to straighten hair, but not all work;
they are usually used on untidy unkept hair. A hairbrush is also useful in
removing loose hairs and in increasing circulation to the scalp.
The following are essential brush types for any salon.
(i) Paddle Brush:

The paddle brush is used to smooth and de-tangle straight hair. Buy
paddle brushes outfitted with wooden handle and boar bristles. Boar
bristles aid in brushing the oils to the ends of hair strands.

Fig. 5.7.: Paddle Brush

(ii) Round Barrel Brush:

Round barrel brushes are most commonly made from metal as they are
used in combination with a blow dryer. The metal portion heats up to
deliver a curling effect to the hair.
Round barrel brushes are also used to tame frizzy hair and to make the
hair more bouncy during styling.

Fig. 5.8.: Round Barrel Brush

74
(iii) Vented Brush:

Vented brushes feature spaces in between the bristles to facilitate

airflow during blow-drying. It was specially designed so stylists can blow
dry hair at a quicker rate. Invest in vented brushes that are simple to use
and are easy to clean too.

Fig. 5.9.: Vented Brush

(iv) Cushioned Brush:

As the name implies, a cushioned brush features a cushion base made

from rubber. The bristles are either made from nylon or boar. This type
of brush is primarily used to smoothen dry and unmanageable hair.

Fig. 5.10.: Cushioned Brush

(v) Rattail Comb:

The rattail comb is a dual function with the bristles used to style the hair
and the tail end to separate and section hair during cutting or styling.
Purchase heat-resistant rattail combs especially if you are using them
together with styling tools that generate heat such as blow dryers and
hair straighteners.

75
 Fig. 5.11.: Rattail Comb
(vi) Wide Toothed Comb:
A wide-tooth comb separates the hair into sections without placing too
much friction on the strands. It is a helpful tool that de-tangles hair
effectively with minimal incidence of hair fall out.

Fig. 5.12.: Wide Toothed Comb

4. Scissors:

The scissors are undeniably the most important tool in a hairdresser‘s

arsenal. It is a core item in any hair salon, hence investing in high-quality
scissors from reputable brands is a must.
(i) Straight Shear:

A straight shear is what a stylist commonly uses to cut hair. It is

recommended that you have shears in two sizes.
A longer shear - which is above 6 inches - is ideal when performing
basic trims and for making clean cuts. For a bob, you will need longer
scissors to achieve this style. A long scissor should be the same length
as your hand for easy handling.
A shorter scissor at 4.5 to 5.5 inches in length is used to achieve more
detailed and accurate cuts. Shorter scissors are used when cutting
around the back of the neck and around the ears.

76
 Fig. 5.13.: Straight Shear
(ii) Blending Shear:

A blending or thinning shear features a straight blade on one panel and

an evenly spaced teeth on the other side. It is the scissor primarily used
by hairdressers to reduce weight from the hair in the fastest way
possible. It is also used to add texture to the hair and to reduce volume if
needed.

Fig. 5.14.: Blending Shear

Blending shears comes in two varieties:

 A 40 to 44 tooth blending shear that is for styling activities such
as texturizing, blending, and tapering/cutting techniques that are
used when achieving a men‘s haircut.
 A Wide-tooth lending shear with 28 teeth that is commonly used
to thin out and texturize thick and coarse hair.
5. Combs:

A comb is a device made of solid material, generally flat, always toothed,

and is used in hair care for straightening and cleaning hair or other
fibers. Combs are among the oldest tools found by archaeologists,
having been discovered in very refined forms from settlements dating
back to 5000 years ago in Persia.

Having a wide array of combs and brushes on hand will make it easier
for hairdressers to cut, style, and colour all hair types. Combs and

77
brushes are also used to separate, straighten, and curl hair during
specialty treatments.
A professional hair salon consists of the following types of combs:
- Tail Comb
- Short-cutting comb
- Long-cutting comb
- Wide-cutting comb

Fig. 5.15: Types of Combs

The material of the comb is important to ensure easy and effortless

handling during styling. You may choose from combs made with silicone,
graphite resins, and carbon fibres as they guarantee the smoothest glide
and can withstand heat up to 450C.
6. Hair clippers:
Electric hair clippers have gradually displaced manual hair clippers.
Today, electric hair clippers are used by the vast majority of barbers
in industrialized countries. All of these companies offer electric hair
clippers in differing grades from bargain consumer units to high-end
professional units. Most consumer grade clippers are intended for
personal use by individual consumers and are often sold in kits which
include several accessories such as clipper guides (for adjusting the
length of the cut). Professional units are intended for hair care
professionals and often are sold without any accessories (which must be
ordered separately). The quality difference between the consumer grade
and professional grade electric clippers has narrowed significantly over
the years. Today the primary difference between the two grades is
usually added or enhanced insulating for internal electrical components
to prevent the unit from heating up during periods of prolonged usage.

78
7. Hair rollers:

Traditionally, a hair roller is a small roller with Velcro used for styling and
curling hair, and with a blowdryer. The damage that extensive heat
application can cause to hair is well known however and so a number of
alternative, heat-free hair rollers have been manufactured for the market.

Fig. 5.16.: Hair rollers

5.4. Principles of Design and types of Styling

Principles of Design:

The principle factors that should be considered when developing a

design or hair style for a client are the following
1. Facial bone structure that form individual characteristics
2. The shape of the head.
3. Hair texture; density and length
4. Hair growth pattern around the hair line

These characteristics establish the requirements necessary to develop

and fashion a suitable design for each client.
Types of Styling

(a) Roller setting

(b) Blow drying
(c) Back combing
(d) Curling and straightening with curling rod
(a) Roller Setting:
Rollers are like moulds on which the hair is supported and moulded into
particular style. This is advantageous as more tension can be used while
putting the hair on rollers, so that longer lasting full styles are produced.

79
Volume in roller setting: Roller setting is described as on base, half
base and off base rollers. On base having the maximum fullness and off
base with less volume but maximum mobility to the style.
(b) Blow Drying:

Blow drying literally means drying the hair by blowing hot or cold air with
the help of a hand dryer. The hair may be just plain dried or
straigtenend, curled or styled along with the drying. Setting or styling hair
with blow drying is a temporary method lasting from wash to wash as it
brings in only a physical change. The hair can be turned inwards and
outwards too.
(c) Back combing:

This is the most used procedure for producing volume in hair styles. It is
known as teasing, backcombing or matting. This procedure is used in
short as well as long hair styles. The backcombing for shorter hair is
aimed at producing a base and is limited to back combing near the scalp
and does not extend beyond two inches of hair from the scalp. On longer
hair emphasis is not on the scalp, so in as much as 6" to 9" (inches) of
hair may be backcombed.
(d) Curling and Straightening with Curling Rod:

The purpose of using iron rods is to produce temporary waves, curls or

ringets on dry hair. They are comparatively faster to work with, but
require a lot of patience and practice and skill before using them on a
client. They are preferred over roller sets for longer hair and cut down
considerably on the time for drying hair under a dryer. They work well for
styles where only the end part is turned in or out and are excellent for
quick touch ups. The most advantageous feature is that they can be
used by the client herself and the styles can be reversed immediately. If
you have turned the hair in and the client wants it out, it can be changed
immediately unlike roller sets.
Making End Curls: This is only time when a curling iron may be used
directly on the ends since the application time is short. In styling long
hair, the ends are fed in last because they are porous so they can
become dry and get damaged easily. The hair may be turned inward or
outwards.

5.5. Backcombing and Back brushing

Some hairstyles require very little volume while others need more, this
can, be created by either the amount of hair itself or by the way it is
set/blow dried. There are two methods of creating extra volume when

80
dressing the hair:
 Backcombing

 Back brushing
1. Backcombing:

This is pushing the hair back on itself at the root to give a lifted full effect
using a comb. Tapered hair is easier to backcomb than clubbed hair as
the finer ends are more easily pushed back on themselves.
Backcombing is also sometimes used to temporarily straighten over-
curly hair.

Fig. 5.17: Backcombing at root of hair

Fig. 5.18: Backcombing on top of hair

Backcombing the hair at the roots underneath the hair mesh will give
volume while backcombing on top of the mesh will help to blend the hair

81
together and will give an even spread of hair; this is often called teasing.
Method when backcombing:

i. Brush the hair into the shape and direction of the style then
decide which area of the head requires extra volume; usually this
is on top of the head and crown area but sometimes the whole
head will require extra volume.
ii. Start at the top or front of the head and take a narrow section of
hair in the direction of the style.

iii. Lift out from the scalp at right angles.

iv. Holding the hair mesh firmly in one hand and the comb in the o
her, insert the comb into the hair mesh approximately 2- cm
away from the scalp.
v. Always remember to hold the hair firmly while backcombing.
Allowing the hair mesh to sag while the comb is pushing back the
hair to the roots, prevents the hair being pushed back correctly
and will make the style flop.
vi. The size of the section depends upon the density and thickness
of the hair and the amount of volume required, but the finished
backcombing should not be visible at the front of the mesh as
this creates difficulties when smoothing the hair over the
backcombing.
vii. If the backcombing does penetrate through to the front of the
mesh then the section or hair mesh is too fine.

viii. It is usually only necessary to backcomb the hair at the root area
as this is where the lift is needed. Only if extreme height is
required by the hairstylist, it is usually necessary to backcomb
the hair past the mid-lengths towards the points.
ix. A common fault when backcombing is not pushing the hair right
back to the scalp thus creating a padded effect at the mid-lengths
instead of the roots. When the hair is smoothed over, the root
area remains 'floppy' resulting in no lift what-so-ever.
Teasing method:

Teasing does not give the same lift to the hair but is used to blend the
hair meshes together, thus giving an even spread of hair and a smoother
finish to the dressing. It can be used in conjunction with backcombing or
on its own.
Larger sections of hair are taken where required and held between the

82
fingers and thumb. The hair is then pushed back on itself on top of the
hair mesh while the hair between the fingers is pulled in the direction of
the style. When smoothing the hair after teasing, care must be taken to
smooth the hair gently so as not to remove all the backcombing.
2. Backbrushing:

This is pushing the hair back on itself either under or on top of the hair
mesh to give a lifted effect using the brush.
Backbrushing gives a softer effect than backcombing and is useful for
longer hair; backcombing long hair tends to create too much lift and
there is the danger of the hair becoming too tangled.

Fig. 5.19.: Backbrushing at root of hair

Fig. 5.20: Backbrushing on top of hair

Method of Backbrushing:

 Hold strand.
 Place brush.

83
  Roll brush.
 Turn brush.

 Blend hair.
 Complete styling.
3. Removal of all backcombing and backbrushing:

Clients should always be advised as to how to remove backcombing or

backbrushing from their hair correctly. Incorrect removal can be very
painful for the client and damaging to the hair.

Commence removal at the nape of the neck, with the wide spaced teeth
of a dressing comb. Always start at the points of the hair and work down
towards the roots.

5.6. Formal Hair Styles

1. Rolls and Interlocks on Head:

Let us divide rolls in two categories as rolls with Even numbers and rolls
with Odd numbers
(a) Rolls with Even numbers (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12):

For this category make a pony tail and divide in different parts for
example for two rolls and for four rolls, part a pony tail into two/four
sections, roll them and pin up with the help of bob pins.
But for 6,8,10,12 and such rolls take out half of partings for example you
have to make 8 rolls, divide pony into four sections then take one
section, roll half of strand pin up and then remaining hairs are used to
make the other roll. This way you can make eight rolls out of four
strands.
(b) Rolls with Odd Numbers (3, 5, 7, 9, 11):
For example: Make 5 pony tails, one in centre and four on sides with
equal distance then roll them. This way you can make as many rolls you
want, taking out sections as required.
2. Interlocks on Head:

When rolls appear as coming from the other rolls then these are called
interlock rolls.
Two Interlocks : For example : Make one pony, make two sections out of
it, pin up in a criss-cross way and then roll them.
In this way you can make as many interlocks as you want by pinning the
hairs in a criss-cross manner.

84
 Even Numbers Odd
Numbers

Fig. 5.20.: Interlocks on head

3. Client consultation:

 the first step in the hairstyling process

 remember the principles of hair design regarding face shape, hair

type, and lifestyle
 you may have to be a creative problem solver; be sure to be
honest with your client if they are asking for a style that will be
unflattering-explain why the exact style might not work and offer
alternative styling options

5.7. Wet Hairstyling

Wet hairstyling tools include the following:

 combs
 brushes
 rollers (plastic)
 clips (duckbill, sectioning, finger waving, double prong and single
prong)
 pins (bobby and hairpins)
 clamps (sectioning)

Fig. 5.21.: Various types of clips

85
1. Finger Waving:

It is the process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern

through the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion. This fashion was
the rage in the 1920s and 1930s.
Waving lotion: Hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in
place during the finger-waving procedure; traditionally made from karaya
gum (harmless to hair; does not flake); is often replaced with liquid
styling gels.

Horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel to the head; vertical
finger waves run up and down the head.

Fig. 5.22.: Finger Waving

Step-by-Step Procedure:

i. Demonstrate the proper manipulation in which the hair is drawn

with the comb toward the face in order to form the ridge of the
first wave.

Fig. 5.23.: Finger waving - Procedure

86
 ii. Demonstrate the proper position of index and middle fingers of
the left hand astride the ridge to prevent the hair from slipping
when combing.
iii. Demonstrate the direction of the ridge backward to complete a
wave.

iv. Demonstrate the third ridge, which is the beginning of the second
wave.
2. Pin Curls:

 Serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls
 Can be used on all hair types
 Works best when hair is layered and smoothly wound
(i) Parts of a Curl:
Base- the stationary (non-moving) foundation of a curl; area closest to
the scalp, the panel of hair on which a roller is placed.
Stem- section of pin curl between the base and the first arc (turn) of the
circle that gives the curl its direction and movement; hair between the
scalp and the first turn of the roller.
Circle-part of the curl that forms a complete circle and ultimately the
wave; the size of the circle determines the width and strength of the
wave.

Fig. 5.24.: Parts of a Curl

(ii) Mobility of a Curl:

The stem determines the amount of movement in a section of hair; curl
mobility is classified as: no stem, half stem, and full stem
No-stem curl- placed directly on the base of a curl; produces a tight,
firm, long- lasting curl; allows minimum mobility.

87
 Fig. 5.25.: No-stem curl

Half-stem curl- curl is placed half off the base; permits medium
movement; gives good control to the hair

Fig. 5.26.: Half-stem curl

Full-stem curl- curl is placed completely off the base; allows for the
greatest mobility; base may be square, triangular, half-moon or
rectangular

Fig. 5.27.: Full-stem curl

(iii) Shaping for Curl Placement:

Fig. 5.28.: Begin at open end of a shaping

Shaping- a section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in
preparation for the formation of curls

88
  will have either open- or closed-end
 always begin a curl at the open end or convex side of a shaping
Open-center curls- produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls

Fig. 5.29.: Open-center curls

Closed-center curls- produce waves that get smaller toward the end;
good for fine hair or if you want a fluffy curl

Fig. 5.30.: Closed-center curls

(iv) Pin Curl Bases or Foundations:

Before you begin to make pin curls, divide the wet hair into sections or
panels. Subdivide each section into the type of base required for the
various curls.
Rectangular based curls- usually recommended at the side front
hairline for a smooth, upswept effect; to avoid splits, the curls must
overlap.

89
 Fig. 5.31.: Rectangular based curls
Triangular based curls- recommended for along the front or facial
hairline to prevent breaks or splits in finished hairstyle; allows a portion
of each curl to overlap the next.

Fig. 5.32.: Triangular based curls

Arc base (half-moon; C-shaped) curls- carved out of a shaping; give
good direction; may be used at the nape or at the hairline.

Fig. 5.33.: Arc base curls

Square based curls- suitable for hairstyles without much volume or lift;
can be used on any part of the head; to avoid splits, stagger the
sectioning.

Fig. 5.34.: Square based curls

90
(v) Pin Curl Techniques:
Ribboning- forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the
comb to create tension; may also be done by pulling the strands while
applying pressure between your thumb and index finger out towards the
ends of the strand.

Fig. 5.35.: Ribboning

Carved curls (sculptured curls)- pin curls sliced from a shaping and
formed without lifting the hair from the head.
Ridge curls- pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to
form a wave.
Wave- uses two rows of pin curls; set one row clockwise and one row
counterclockwise.

Fig. 5.36.: Wave

Skip waves- two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head;
strong wave pattern with well-defined lines between the waves; is a
combination of finger waves and pin curls.

91
 Fig. 5.37.: Skip Waves
Barrel curls- large center openings fastened to the head in a standing
position on a rectangular base; same effect as stand-up pin curls; similar
effect to a roller but without the same tension as a roller

Fig. 5.38.: Barrel curls

Cascade curls (stand-up curls)- create height in a hair design; fastened

to the head in a standing position; size of curl determines amount of
height in comb out

Fig. 5.39.: Cascade curls

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3. Roller Curls:

Roller curls are used to create many of the same effects as pin curls.
The advantages of roller curls are:
 Faster- a roller holds the equivalent of two to four stand up curls
 Stronger and longer lasting- hair is rolled with tension
 More creative possibilities- rollers come in a variety of sizes,
shapes, and widths

Fig.5.40.: Things used for roller curl

1. Parts of a Roller Curl
 Base- panel of hair on which the roller is based; the base
should be the same length and width as the roller
 Stem-the hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller

 Curl (circle)- hair that is wrapped around the roller

Fig. 5.41.: Parts of a Curl

3. Roller Placement:

The amount of volume that is achieved depends on the size of the roller

93
and how it sits on its base. The general rule of thumb is, the larger the
roller, the greater the volume. There are three kinds of placement:
(i) On Base (full base)- full volume; roller sits directly on base; over
direct the strand slightly in front of the base and roll the hair down to the
base.

Fig. 5.45.: On-base

(ii) Half Base- medium volume; roller sits halfway on base and halfway
behind base; hold strand up 90 degrees from head and roll hair down.

Fig. 5.46.: Half base

(iii) Off Base- least volume; roller sits completely off base; hold hair 45
degrees from base and roll the hair down.

Fig. 5.47.: Off-base

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Roller direction: placement of rollers usually follows the movement of
the finished style; downward directional wrap gives option to style in all
directions.
Hot rollers- used only on dry hair; heated either electrically or by steam;
follow same setting pattern as wet hair but leave on for about 10
minutes; may use thermal protector before setting; curl is weaker than a
wet set but stronger and more long-lasting than a curling iron.
Velcro rollers- are not allowed by some states because they are difficult
to clean and disinfect properly; used only on dry hair; more volume than
a round brush but less than a wet set or hot roller; stays in 5-10 minutes;
no clips needed

5.8. Dressing Hair

Dressing the hair produces the final image of the style and the task is
made far easier by using the correct tools. Dressing creams containing
mineral oils which coat the hair can be used after brushing to reduce
static electricity and replace any oils lost during the shampooing, setting
or blow-drying process.

Backcombing and backbrushing are techniques used to produce extra

volume and can also help to straighten over-curly hair to some extent.
Backcombing/ backbrushing at the roots will give lift to the style while
backcombing/ backbrushing on top of the hair mesh (teasing) is used to
'blend' the hair and eliminate roller marks. Both types of backcombing/
backbrushing should be removed from the hair carefully to avoid client
discomfort and unnecessary damage to the hair. Any tangling should be
removed using the wide teeth of a dressing comb starting at the hair
points and working down towards the roots.

Care must be taken to check that the line, balance and shape of the
finished style is in proportion to the client's head shape and body size.
Remember that the final image is most important and should
complement the client.
The hair may be 'fixed' in place by 'fixing sprays' made from synthetic
plastic polymers dissolved in alcohol which leave a plastic coating on the
hair, thus protecting it from the effects of atmospheric moisture.
However, care must be taken when using these sprays as they are
usually flammable and additional precautions are necessary when using
the aerosol sprays as the pressurised can will explode if exposed to
excessive heat or sunlight, or if disposed of incorrectly.

95
How to apply the lacquer

1. Protect the client's face with a face shield or with the free hand.

2. Aim the spray just above the dressing to allow the lacquer to
drop onto the hair. While lacquering the hair, the spray should be
moved in the direction of the hairstyle so that any movement of
air does not disturb the dressing.
3. Spray the lacquer from a distance of 30 cm (12") so that a fine
even spray coats the hair. Spraying the hair too near to the head
will saturate only one area and this could wet the hair too much
causing it to drop. Alternatively, the lacquer may form 'blobs' on
the hair which, when dry, will look like white nodules sticking to
the hair.
4. When enough lacquer has been applied to the hair, re- check
the dressing carefully and smooth any fly-away hairs with the flat
of the hands or the back of the comb.
Hair lacquers are routinely sprayed onto the hair by use of a pressurized
aerosol spray can. The basic design of these containers consists of:

 The propellant which produces the pressure inside the container.

 The nozzle which when pressed release the pressure and the
can contents are sprayed out as the fine droplets of an aerosol.

Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. A _______________ is achieved by arranging hair in a certain way,

occasionally using combs, a blow-dryer, gel, or other products.
2. _________________ speed the drying process of hair by blowing
air, which is usually heated

3. An _________________ is a hair style that involves arranging the

hair so that it is pointing up.
4. ________________ is a product added to hair for extra volume and
shine.
5. The _______________ brush is used to smooth and de-tangle
straight hair.

6. A _______________ shear features a straight blade on one panel

and an evenly spaced teeth on the other side.

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Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Hair styling and its components, Hair
Styling Products, Hair Styling Tools, Principles of Design and types of
Styling, Backcombing and Backbrushing, Formal Hair Styles, Wet
Hairstyling and Hair Dressing.

Answers to Check Your Progress

1. hairstyle
2. Hair dryers

3. updo
4. Hair mousse
5. paddle
6. blending or thinning

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 Unit-6

Thermal Hair Styling

Structure

Overview
Objectives
6.1. Introduction to Thermal Hair styling

6.2. Setting and Blow Drying

6.3. Thermal Waving and Curling
6.4. Thermal Hair Straightening

Check Your Progress

Let Us Sum Up
Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Introduction to Thermal Hair styling,
Setting and Blow Drying, Thermal Waving and Curling along with
handling of thermal irons and flat irons, Thermal Hair Straightening.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Introduction Thermal Hair styling
 Setting and Blow Drying
 Thermal Waving and Curling along with handling of thermal irons
and flat irons
 Thermal Hair Straightening

6.1. Introduction to Thermal Hairstyling

Thermal Hairstyling is a term used to describe the use of heated

implements for use on the hair.
Tools classified as Thermal:

 Blow dryer
 Curling Iron
 Hair straightening Iron (flat iron)

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  Straightening comb
 Metal lined brushes or combs that hold the heat when blow
drying.
Hairstyling theory:

 Hair is composed predominantly of proteins connected by both

physical and chemical bonds.
 Physical bonds and hydrogen bonds are easily affected by both
water and heat.

 When heat is applied the hydrogen bonds are weakened, the

protein chains shift and a temporary curl is formed.
 When the hair cools; the bonds of the hair reform into the shape
of the heated tool that was used. Do not disturb the hair until it is
cool or the curl will become weak.
 Do not stretch the hair while it is still warm, the curl pattern will
not hold.
 Water, shampoo, too much hairspray, rain and humidity will
cause the hair to return to its original shape.
 Remember this is a temporary service.
Tools used and their purpose:
Blow Dryers: Used for drying the hair into a new hairstyle; also called
air-forming. The nozzle fits on the end of the blow-dryer and is used to
aim the air to a certain area. The nozzle prevents splits ends if you
follow the blow-dryer‘s direction towards the ends of the hair.

Blow-dryers are used in adjacent with a brush or comb, depending on

the hairstyle that was chosen. Diffusers spread a gentle air over a large
area and not a large spread of wind as with the blow-dryer on its own. It
is also known as scrunching. To be used on curly hair or to create body
in the hair allowing it to dry in it‘s natural state. Read the manufacturer‘s
direction for settings on your blow-dryer before use.

Round brushes create the shape the hair will be in when dry. When
choosing the correct brush analyze the length of the hair and the size of
the curl desired. Vent Brushes will create a straighter look in the hair and
are often used to dry the hair prior to hair-straightening.
Curling irons or thermal irons: It come in a variety of sizes and is used
to add curl to straight hair. The variety of sizes allows you to decide on
the size of curl.

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Pressing combs, Hair-straighteners are used to straighten hair that is
too curly. Pressing combs are not as popular today and hair
straighteners with stoves are mainly used for very curly black hair.

Fig. 6.1.: Tools used for blow drying

6.2. Setting and Blow-drying

Setting hair involves the breaking and reforming of water breakable

linkages between the polypeptide chains of hair keratin. Setting can be
divided into:
(i) Wet sets - where the hair is wet before processing and thus water
breaks some bonds in the hair. Examples are roller setting, pin curls,
finger waving, blow waving and blow drying.
(ii) Dry sets - where the hair is processed dry by directly applying heat
the moisture already in the hair breaks the cross- linkages. Examples

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are heated rollers, heated brushes, etc.
Setting lotions make the set last longer by glueing the hair in place.
Some contain natural gums, but most modern setting lotions contain a
mixture of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and polyvinyl acetate (PVA).
1. Blow Drying:

Blow drying literally means drying the hair by blowing hot or cold air with
the help of a dryer (hand). The hair may be just plain dried or they may
be straightened, curled or styled along with the drying. Curling or Styling
with blow drying is a temporary method lasting from wash to wash as it
is only a physical change. The hair can be turned inwards or outwards
during the styling/curling.

Fig. 6.2.: Blow dryer

2. Cautions in Blow drying:

 Don‘t hold dryer in one place too long.

 Direct air flow.
 Direct hot air away from scalp.
 Move in back--and--forth motion.
 Partially dry before style blow--drying.
3. Preparing trolley with material and tools for blow drying:
Material to be arranged on tray include.

 Dryer
 Setting clips
 Setting lotion or mousse

 Comb
 Vent brush

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4. Procedure of Blow Drying:
i) The hair is parted in four sections.
ii) Start at the nape by taking a section 1/2 " to 1" wide depending
on the thickness of hair.
iii) Using a half round brush, exert pressure and pull the hair to
straighten the hair. The thumb is used on the flat back of the
brush for support. The pulling action rests on the edge of the
brush and not on the bristles.

iv) Repeat the process till all hair of one section is done. Now repeat
the process on the whole hair in the other three sections again till
the whole hair are done.
v) The ends can be rolled on a full round brush.

Fig. 6.3.: Blower drying and setting

5. Blow Drying for Wavy hair:

A diffuser is used to dry curly hair to prevent removing of the curl. The
diffuser is attached to the nozzle on the blow dryer. Dry the lower section
first, then work your way up toward the crown.
Note: Work the brush and dryer in sections. Do not hold the dryer still
for long over one section as this could damage the hair. Work
methodically through the hair, working with neat small section of hair.
Make sure that the hair in the section are dry before you move to the
other section.
6. After blow drying:

When blow drying is completed, allow the hair to cool thoroughly and
check that the hair is completely dry. Warm hair often gives the illusion
of dryness while it is still damp.

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Comb or brush the hair into the finished style ensuring that the sides are
blended into the back and that all partings are straight and clean. Pay
particular attention to the nape area to ensure that the shape· is pleasing
and check the balance of the finished dressing from the front, sides and
back of the head, making full use of the mirror.

Apply a fine spray of lacquer or shine and smooth down any fly-away
hairs with the back of the comb or palm of the hand.

6.3. Thermal Waving and Curling

Thermal waving and curling (Marcel waving) are methods of waving and
curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special
manipulative techniques.
1. Thermal irons:
These are implements made of quality steel that are used to curl dry
hair; provide even heat that is controlled by stylist; can be electrical or
stove heated
 Electrical have barrels ½ to 3 inches
 Stove heated can be much larger with higher heat capacities-
better for curlier hair; heated in specially designed electric or gas
stove
 All thermal irons have four parts: rod handle, shell handle, barrel
(or rod) and shell
2. Parts of Thermal Iron:

Fig. 6.4.: Parts of Thermal Iron

A thermal iron has four major parts. They are:

i. Rod handle

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 ii. Shell handle
iii. Barrel or rod

iv. Shell
3. Flat irons:

Flat irons have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ to 3 inches; flat
irons with straight edges are used to create smooth, straight styles even
on very curly hair; flat irons with a beveled edge can be manipulated to
bend or cup the ends; the edge nearest the stylist is the inner edge and
the edge farthest from the stylist is the outer edge.

Fig. 6.5.: Flat Irons

4. Testing Thermal Irons:

After heating to the desired temperature, test the iron on a piece of

tissue paper or white cloth: clamp the iron over this material and hold for
five seconds-if it scorches or turns brown, it is too hot and you must let it
cool a little.

Fig. 6.6.: Testing of Thermal irons

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5. Care of thermal irons:

Check the manufacturer‘s directions; you may usually use a damp towel
or rag to wipe down the barrel with a soapy solution containing a few
drops of ammonia. Do not clean while hot solution.
6. Comb used with thermal irons:

The comb should be about 7 inches long and made of hard rubber or
other nonflammable material; should have fine teeth to firmly hold hair.

Fig. 6.7.: Comb used with thermal irons

7. Temperature:
There is no set temperature; it depends on the texture of the hair (fine or
coarse) and whether it has been lightened or tinted
8. Thermal curling with electric thermal irons:
 Straight hair- thermal curling permits quick styling because it
eliminates the need for rollers
 Pressed hair-permits styling without fear of returning to former
extremely curly condition
 Wigs and hairpieces (human)- quick and effective method for
styling
9. Manipulating Thermal irons:

 Grasp handles with dominant hand.

 Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little

finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

Fig. 6.8.: Grasping the thermal iron

105
The other manipulations that are to be learnt by the beginner with
plugging in the electricity are provided in the figures below.
Note: Practice the below holding positions with cold irons.

Fig. 6.9.: Various positions of holding the thermal iron

10. Types of curls using thermal irons:

(i) Spiral- curling the hair by winding a strand around the rod; creates
hanging curls suitable for medium or long hair.
(ii) End curls- can be used to give finished appearance to hair ends;
may be curled over or under.

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 Fig. 6.10.: Curled over and Curled under end curls
(iii) Volume based curls- provide maximum lift or volume; curl placed
very high on the base; section hair off, hold strand at 135 degree angle,
slide iron over strand about ½ inch from scalp, wrap strand over rod with
medium tension, hold for 5 seconds, roll curl in usual manner and place
firmly forward and high on base.
(iv) Full-base thermal curls- sit in the center of the base; hold hair at
125 degree angle, slide over strand about ½ inch from scalp, wrap
strand over rod with medium tension, hold for 5 seconds, roll curl as
usual and place firmly in center of base.
(v) Half-based thermal curls- sit half of their base; provide strong curl
with medium lift or volume; hold hair at 90 degree angle, slide iron over
hair about ½ inch from scalp, wrap hair over rod with medium tension,
hold for five sections, roll in usual manner and place half off its base.
(vi) Off-based curls-offer a curl with only slight lift or volume; section off
hair, hold hair at 70 degree angle, slide iron over the hair about ½ inch
from scalp, wrap hair over rod with medium tension, hold for 5 seconds,
roll as usual with curl completely off its base.
To finish: brush hair up from the neckline and push waves into place as
you progress over the entire head; if hairstyle is to be finished with curls,
do the bottom curls last.
11. Using thermal irons safely:

 Use only after receiving instruction in use

 Do not overheat as this can damage the iron
 Test the temperature of the iron on white paper or a white cloth

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  Handle carefully to avoid burning yourself or the client
 Place hot irons in a safe place to cool

 Make iron is properly balanced in the heater and tge handle is

not too close to the heater
 Use only hard rubber or non-flammable combs, do not use metal
as they can become hot and burn the scalp
 Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron to prevent
burns

 Only use on clean and completely dry hair

 Do not allow ends to protrude over the iron; this will cause
fishhooks (hair that is bent or folded)

 When ironing lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair, always use a

gentle heat setting

6.4. Thermal Hair Straightening

Thermal hair straightening or pressing is a popular service; hair pressing

temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a
heated iron or comb; generally lasts until the hair is shampooed.
Soft press- removes about 50 to 60% of the curl; accomplished by
pressing the thermal comb once on each side of the hair
Medium press- removes about 60 to 75% of the curl; accomplished by
pressing the thermal comb once on each side of the hair using slightly
more pressure
Hard press- removes 100% of the curl; accomplished by applying
thermal comb twice on each side of the hair; can also be done by
passing a thermal iron through the hair first- this is called a double press.
1. Analysis of Hair and Scalp:

Look at all of the following before straightening hair: wave pattern,

length, texture, elasticity, color, condition of hair, condition of scalp
 If the scalp is diseased, refer client to a doctor
 If hair is abused or neglected, you must recommend conditioning
treatments prior to pressing or hair can break
 Check for elasticity and porosity

Checking all of these areas will help a cosmetologist to determine the

right choices for temperature and pressure so as to ensure hair does not
break or become damaged.

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(i) Hair texture:

 coarse hair can be difficult to press because it has the greatest

diameter; requires more heat and pressure than medium or fine
hair
 medium curly hair is the type cosmetologists seem most often
see in the salon; this hair type is least resistant to pressing
 fine hair requires special care; use less heat and pressure to
avoid breakage

 wiry, curly hair is very resistant to pressing and requires more

heat and pressure than other types of hair
(ii) Scalp Condition:

 normal scalp- proceed with analysis of hair texture and elasticity

 tight scalp with coarse hair- press in the direction of the hair
growth to avoid scalp injury

 flexible scalp- use enough tension to press hair satisfactorily

(iii) Conditioning Treatments:

 effective conditioning treatments involve special cosmetic

preparations for the hair and scalp through brushing and scalp
massage; conditioning usually results in better hair pressing
2. Pressing Combs:

There are two types of pressing combs, electric and regular.

 Both should be constructed of quality stainless steel and brass
with wooden handles that do not readily absorb heat

 Space between the teeth varies; closely spaced teeth provide a

smooth press; as spacing gets wider, press gets less smooth
 Shorter combs are used to press short hair and loner combs are
used to press longer hair
(i) Tempering the Comb:

 You may need to temper a new brass comb so that it will hold
heat evenly
 Heat the comb until it is extremely hot; coat the comb in
petroleum or pressing oil; let cool down naturally and rinse under
hot running water to remove the oil
 This allows you to burn off all the polish the manufacturer may

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 have used to coat the comb
(ii) Heating the Comb:

 Pressing combs vary in their ability to accept and retain heat

 Heat comb to proper temperature; test on light paper; if scorches
paper, allow to cool

Electric combs come in two forms: electric comes with on/off switch and
the other has a thermostat that indicates high or low heat.
(iii) Cleaning the Comb:

 Pressing combs work most effectively if kept clean. Wipe the

comb clean of loose hair, grease and dirt. The comb‘s intense
heat keeps its sterile.
 With non-electrical irons, remove carbon by rubbing the outside
surface and between the teeth with a fine steel-wool pad or fine
sandpaper; place the metal portion of the comb in a hot baking
soda solution for about one hour; rinse and dry the comb
thoroughly; the metal will acquire a smooth and shiny
appearance
3. Pressing Oil or Cream:
 Makes hair softer
 Prepare and condition the hair for pressing
 Help protect the hair from burning or scorching
 Prevent hair breakage
 Condition hair after pressing
 Add sheen to pressed hair
 Help hair stay pressed longer
Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. Diffusers spread a gentle air over a large area and not a large spread
of wind as with the blow-dryer on its own and it is also known as
___________________.
2. ______________ and ________________ are used to straighten hair
that is too curly.

3. A ______________ is used to dry curly hair to prevent removing of

the curl.

110
4. __________________ have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ to 3
inches.
5. The comb used along with thermal iron should be about ___________
inches long and made of hard rubber or other nonflammable material.
6. Thermal irons should be used only on clean and completely
_____________ hair.
7. In thermal hair straightening, a medium press removes about
_________ % of the curl.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Introduction to Thermal Hair styling,
Setting and Blow Drying, Thermal Waving and Curling along with
handling of thermal irons and flat irons, Thermal Hair Straightening.

111
Answers to Check Your Progress

1. scrunching
2. Pressing combs and Hair-straighteners
3. diffuser
4. Flat irons
5. 7
6. dry
7. 60 to 75

112
 Unit-7

Skin care

Structure

Overview
Objectives
7.1. Skin and its Structure

7.2. Types of Skin

7.3. Skin Analysis and Care
7.4. Skin Diseases

7.5. Bleaching
7.6. Facial
Check Your Progress
Let Us Sum Up
Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Skin and its Structure, Types of Skin,
Skin Analysis and Care, Skin Diseases, Bleaching, Facial and its
massages.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Skin and its Structure

 Types of Skin
 Skin Analysis and Care
 Skin Diseases

 Bleaching, its types and procedure

 Facial and its massages
 Types of facial

 Benefits of Facial

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7.1. Skin and its Structure

Skin is the outer covering of our body and different people have different
types of skin and skin problems. Everyone desires a skin that is blemish
free, not too oily or too dry, acnaed, pimpled etc. Not everyone can be
blessed with an ideal skin, but we can always intervene and take steps
to overcome the flaws and problems through special care and
treatments. The modern salons offers a lot of support in helping us to
overcome the flaws and treat our problems.

As an assistant beauty therapist, it is also important for you to know

about the composition of the skin, some of its common problems and
diseases. This information and knowledge will help you not only to take
care of the skin but also to guide the client about the necessary care for
a beautiful skin and look.
Structure of skin:

The skin is very elastic, durable, and complex. It is the largest organ of
the body. It is about 20 square feet of tissue that weighs about 6 to 7
pounds. On the eyelids, the skin is thin but on the soles of the feet it may
be ½ inch thick.
The skin is frequently called "The mirror of the body". A healthy skin is
usually a sign of good health. On the other hand, a serious illness often
shows it's presence on the surface of the skin. The study of the skin is
known as dermatology and a dermatologist is a doctor who specializes
in skin treatment.

Skin is one of the largest organ which covers the entire surface of our
body. Our skin is made up of three main layers:
1. Epidermis – Outer layer

2. Dermis – Middle layer

3. Subdermis – Innermost layer
Layers of the Skin:

The outer layer of the skin is epidermis and inner layer is called dermis.
There is a third layer which is made of fatty tissues called subdermis
layer.
1. Epidermis consists almost entirely of dead and dying cells. It has
almost no blood supply, except in the deepest layer.
The epidermis is further divided into four distinct layers:
i. The cornified layer (Stratum Corneum): It is the surface layer

114
 of the skin. The cells of this layer contains a hard substance
called keratin. This layer is very tough and nearly waterproof.
The topmost cells are constantly being worn away and shed.
ii. The clear layer (Stratum Lucidum): This consists of a thin layer
of small cells through which light can pass.
iii. The granuler layer (Stratum Granulosum): It contains dead
cells. These cells look like granules and move towards the
surface of the skin. They replace cells in the cornified layer that
have been worn away.
iv. The germinative layer (Stratum Germinativum): It is above the
dermis. In this layer, new cells are continually being formed.
Among these new cells can be found great numbers of special
cells called melanocytes. These cells contain melanin, a
brownish pigment that determines skin colour.

Fig. 7.1.: Layers of Skin

2. Dermis is a true skin made up of many interwoven fibres (not cells) of
elastic proteins called collagen which give skin its ability to stretch.

The dermis is divided into two layers:

i. The Papillary Layer: It has tiny finger like projections which help
anchor the dermis to the epidermis. They are well supplied with
blood vessels.
ii. The Reticular Layer: This contains many structures like nerves,
oil glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, blood vessels etc.

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Functions of the Skin:

As you are aware that our body has many organs, most of which are
necessary for bodily functions. When you think of vital organs, do you
consider skin as one of them? Normally we don‘t! But that is not correct.
The skin like most organs is vital to overall health and carries out many
functions that help us to protect our health.
a. Temperature regulation: helps in regulating body temperature.
b. Protection: It protects the body from - heat, cold, bacteria, excess
fluid and harmful elements in the environment.
c. Absorption: Skin is capable of absorbing necessary substance in
a limited way e.g. topical medicine and cosmetics.
d. Sensation: It is the sensory organ for touch, heat, cold, pain etc.
and transmits the information to brain.
e. Secretion: Skin is well supplied with sebaceous glands which
secrete oil that is vital to our skin.
f. Execretion: Helps in execretion of toxic substances with sweat.

7.2. Types of Skin

The actual skin type is determined by the genes, i.e. you are born with it.
However, the health and beauty of your skin later depends on what you
eat and how you take care of it. The skin type of each and every person
is different. As a beauty expert, your first responsibility is to identify your
client‘s skin type. You must be thinking why is it important? Because
different types of skin require particular kind of care to keep it healthy
and beautiful.

Fig. 7.2.: Types of skin

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 The four skin types used in the beauty industry are:
1. Normal skin
2. Dry skin
3. Oily skin
4. Combination skin
1. Characteristics of different skin types:

S.No. Type of Skin Characteristics

1. Normal skin  The pore size is small.

 The moisture content is good
 The skin texture is even.

 The color is healthy, skin has no

pigmentation or blemishes.
 The skin feels warm to touch

2. Dry skin  The pore size is small or tight.

 The moisture content is poor.
 The skin texture is coarse.
 Premature ageing is common; wrinkles
can be seen around eyes, nose, mouth
and neck.
 Skin can be sensitive with patches of
flaking skin.
 Freckles and unven pigmentation can be
seen in this skin type.

3. Greasy/oily skin  The pores are enlarged.

 The moisture content is high.
 The skin is coarse and thick.
 Certain disorders like pimple, acne,
comedones, milia etc. may appear on oily
skin type.
 The skin is generally having uneven
pigmentation.

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4. Combination skin  The pores on T-zone are enlarged while
on cheeks they are small to medium.
 The moisture content is high in the oily
area and poor in dry area.
 There is uneven pigmentation.
 There may be blemishes on T-zone and
broken capillaries on dry area.

7.3. Skin Analysis and Care

Before undertaking any beauty treatments you will be required to

analyse the skin of your client. Skin analysis is important to help provide
the most appropriate beauty treatment and prevent damage to the skin
or aggravate the existing skin problems. A thorough analysis is key to
any effective facial treatment. This helps you to determine the correct
cream and lotion to use during the facial. Maintain client‘s record and
note down about the products used and treatments given for future
reference.
1. Method of Skin analysis:

Ask your client her skin type or analyse the skin type using wood lamp or
with tissue paper technique.
Wood lamp: Hold the wood lamp over the client‘s face in a dimly lit
room
(i) silver patches indicates dry skin

(ii) a yellow or orange light indicates oily or acne prone skin

(iii) Purple patches indicates dehydrated skin
(iv) Brown patches indicate pigmented skin

(v) Normal blue glow indicate healthy skin

Tissue paper Technique: Fold the tissue paper in a triangle and place
it on the T zone.

(i) Paper remains dry then it is dry to normal skin.

(ii) If paper turns oily then it is oily skin
2. Skin Care:

The skin in order to appear attractive and healthy needs regular care.
Each skin type should be taken care of by specific care techniques and
routines. This is going to be easier once you have determined the skin

118
 type of your client. Come let us study about daily skin care and the skin
care according to skin types.
Daily skin care: A particular daily care should be followed by everyone.
This include the following;
C - Cleansing

T - Toning
M - Moisturizing
Procedure:

 Clean the face and neck with a cleansing milk or astringent

according to the skin type or weather.
 Then apply toner with the help of cotton pads
 Then apply a good moisturizer on the skin.
3. Skin Care according to Skin Type:

Toning/
S.No. Type of skin Cleansing Massaging Packs/ Masks
Scrubbing

Normal Basic Normal/ Normal

1. Normal cleanser toners/ Basic Packs/
Scrubbers Creams Masks

Cleansing Oil based Vit. A, E or Hydrating

Creams toners/ protein Packs/
2. Dry
Scrubbers based rich Masks
creams

Alcohol Alcohol Oil free Exfoliating

Based gels Based creams or Packs/
3. Oily
toners/ gels Masks
Scrubbers

4. Combination As required As required As required As required

7.4. Skin Disorders

1. Acne:

During the teenage years, the oil glands become very active. When the
pores that allow oil to reach the skin surface become clogged, pimples
can form. Sometimes these pimples get worse and take the shape of
acne. Serious cases of acne should be referred to a dermatologist.
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2. Blackheads or Comedones:

They are also caused by clogged pores. Sebum hardens and forms a
plug. Steaming is helpful to clear up this condition. You can use black
head extractor to remove them after steaming.
3. Whiteheads or Milia:

They result when sebum accumulates beneath the surface of the skin.
4. Steatoma or Warts:

It is a sebaceous cyst. This is a tumor of the sebaceous glands that

forms under the skin. They vary in size.
5. Asteatosis:

In this condition sebaceous glands secrete very little sebum and the skin
becomes very dry and scaly. It occurs most frequently in older people.
6. Seborrhea:

In this condition sebaceous glands are over active. The surface of the
skin becomes very oily and shiny.
7. Hyperhidrosis:

This problem causes abnormal sweating even in winters.

8. Prickly heat or Miliaria Rubra:

This is inflammation of the skin around the skin pores. It appears in the
form of small red pimples with itching. Various powders and lotions are
helpful in treating this condition.

7.5. Bleaching

Bleaching is a temporary solution to facial hair which will disguise rather

than remove hair. Avoid bleach if you have a lot of upper lip hair as it
may tum the hair yellow. Facial hair bleach usually comes as a powder
and cream, which should be mixed together before applying.
Skin Whitening, skin lightening and skin bleaching refers to the practice
of using chemical substances in an attempt to lighten skin tone or
provide an even skin complexion by lessening the concentration of
melanin. Bleach refers to a number of chemicals that remove color,
whiten, or disinfect, often via oxidation.

The bleaching process has been known for thousands of years, but the
chemicals currently used for bleaching resulted from the work of several
18th century scientists. The solution of sodium hypochlorite, and calcium

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hypochloride (bleaching powder) is commonly referred to as "bleach".
Oxidizing bleaching agents that do not contain chlorine most often are
based on peroxides, such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate
and sodium perborate. While most bleaches are oxidizing agents, a
fewer number are reducing agents such as sodium dithionite.

Bleaching is a process that lightens the colour of the facial hair. It works
best on soft hair that grows on the face and arms. This is a very
common treatment used by women and men as well. Some types of
bleaches used in parlours are:
1. Types of bleaches:
Powdered bleach: This is done by adding bleaching powder with liquid
hydrogen peroxide and ammonia. If powder bleach is used for
eliminating dark spot and freckles then bleaches should be applied only
to that area of dark spots and freckles.
Cream bleach: This is available at any drugstore or at chemist shops
and used in most of the beauty parlors. It is used for Skin brightening.
use cream bleach so that you can widespread on your face.

Fig. 7.3.: Cream bleach

If you do not have a defined area (i.e. if freckles and spots are wide
spread) then it is safer to use cream bleach.
Milk Bleach: This is usually best suited for sensitive skin type. It
primarily comprises of milk powder and usually some ammonia to lighten
the hair.
Protein Bleach: It is mild bleach, in which butter pack is used to ensure
a soft supple skin. Ammonia is used to lighten the hair and remove

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tanning. Protein Bleach is a blessing for those who have a sensitive / oily
skin.
Gold Bleach: In gold beach Aqua activator is used along with the Gold
cream bleach, which helps in activating the bleaching action to give you
a fairer and glowing skin. Ammonia is used to lighten the hair and
remove tanning. This particular bleach is famous among brides as it
gives a golden glow to one's skin.
Oxy bleach: Feel your skin breathing with Oxy bleach. It's a special type
of bleach which is especially good for the tanned and sensitive skin. It
helps oxygen to penetrate the skin. When oxygen enters the skin, it
takes with it water and lipids deep into the skin, making the skin softer,
more hydrated and glowing. It is a healthy way to bleach. Its
effectiveness can be judged by the onlookers around you.
2. The Pros of bleaching:

It's fast, easy, and without much risk. Bleaching cream can be found at
any drug store fairly cheap, and you can bleach right in your own home.
Large areas of hair can be bleached at the same time, with the entire
process only taking minutes from start to finish. You don't risk a lot pain
or getting ingrown hairs, since you aren't removing the hair from follicle.
3. The Cons of bleaching:

 Bleaching facial and body hair doesn't give you a smooth and
hairless surface. These are the main reasons people want to rid
hair. Even though hair is lighter, it still may be noticeable,
especially if you are standing in the sun or a bright room.
 Not all hair or skin types can benefit. Don't count on bleaching
disguising long or thick hair- only finer ones, like on the face or
arms. Bleached hair on dark or tan skin, can still stand out
because of the color contrast (light hair against dark skin).
 The results aren't very long-lived. The hair above the surface is
the only part of the hair follicle that has been lightened. As the
hair grows, you will see the darker, natural color.
 It can temporarily lighten dark skin tones. The lighter skin tone
can last for up to 3 days.
4. Trolley setting:
Materials Required: Bowl (Glass or Plastic), Cotton wool, Sponge,
Towels, Neck cape, Applicator Brush, Head Band, Gloves (Rubber),
Bleaching Powder, Hydrogen Peroxide (20 Volumes), Liquid Ammonia,

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Dropper and Rose Water
5. Patch Test:

A Patch Test is necessary before proceeding with the bleach. This

should be performed at least 24 hours prior to bleaching process. If
reaction occurs, do not bleach.
6. Procedure for Powder Bleach:
i) Remove the jewellery and make up
ii) Cleanse the face and neck thoroughly

iii) Prepare the client using head band and wrap the towel or neck
cape
iv) Prepare the bleach pack by mixing two tea spoons of bleaching
powder, 5-6 drops of liquid ammonia and hydrogen peroxide (20
volumes) as per requirement to make a smooth paste
v) Cover the client's eyes with cotton dipped in Rose water
vi) Apply bleach pack in upward and outward movements. Leave for
10- 15 minutes and clean the face with tap water.
vii) Apply moisturizer
Note: Use oil bleach/cream bleach as per manufacturer's direction
7. Precautions of bleaching:
There are several things to keep in mind before using bleach for
lightening your facial or body hair
 Only use bleach meant for facial or body hair. Don't use bleach
meant for the hair on your head, it's much stronger than the
formula that's used for the face and body
 Test product first. Do patch test product first on arm and wait 24
hours before using on large area, because you could be allergic
or very sensitive to the product. Even if you don't see any
redness on your arm, you still need to be cautions when using on
facial skin- it's generally more delicate
 Don't bleach where you shouldn't. Only use bleach on the
outside of your body. Don't use near eyes, inside nose, ears, on
nipples, scar tissue, warts, moles or near genitals. Bleach
shouldn't be used over sunburned, irritated, inflamed or chapped
skin, or an area that is freshly tweezed or shaved. It's simply not
safe

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  Don't use on extremely exfoliated skin. Bleaching isn't safe to
use on areas where you are using Retin A, Alpha Hydroxy, or
Glycolic Acid
 Keep packaged product away from heat and sun. Store
bleaching products in a cool, dry place

 Metal and bleach don't mix. Don't use a metal dish to mix bleach
or apply bleach using anything metal
 Keep bleached area out of direct sunlight for at least 24 hours

 Children: In a house with small children, all products, including

bleach, should be completely out of reach and preferably under
lock and key. All bleaches should be clearly marked and it is also
advisable to label them.
 Never mix chlorine bleach with other cleaning products, in
particular ammonia or anything acidic (such as vinegar). The
combination of bleach with these products releases a very toxic
gas. Thumb rule should be to never mix chlorine bleach with
anything other then water.
Protection: Always protect your hands when working with bleach. If you
don't wear gloves you are likely to end up with rough, scaly and even
bloody hands - it is that rough on skin. You may want to use protective
eye ware when working with bleach as well.
Ventilation: Always make sure the area you are using bleach in is well-
ventilated - open the windows.

7.6. Facial

A facial service is one of the most pleasant treatments available in the

salon. You should ensure that the facial room is quiet, clean, comfortably
warm and indirectly lit. The client cannot relax if these conditions are not
met. The facial bed should be comfortable and adjustable. A thorough
knowledge of structure of the skin, types of skin and various skin
disorders and disease is essential for facial expert. Facials are designed
according to skin type and disorders.
1. Material, tools and equipment required for basic facial:

As an assistant beauty therapist, you should remember the materials

required for a particular treatment. You can make a checklist for your
reference. The list given below includes the basic material tools and
equipment required for basic facial.
(i) Cleansing cream or lotion (As per skin type)

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 (ii) Massage cream
(iii) Exfoliators (Creams and fruits)
(iv) Serum and gels
(v) Ampules
(vi) Skin firmer
(vii) Skin toners or astringents
(viii) Cotton pads or sponges
(ix) Spatula (Wooden/plastic)

(x) Towels
(xi) Body drape
(xii) Head drape
(xiii) Face Packs and Masks
(xiv) Hand sanitizer
(xv) Applicator/brushes

(xvi) Comedone Black head Extractor

(xvii) Disinfectant lotion
(xviii) Scrub
2. Electrical gadgets used in facial treatment:

(i) Vibro massager

(ii) Steamer

(iii) Vapozone
(iv) High frequency unit
(v) Brushing machine
3. Preparations before a facial:

Facial should be a relaxing experience for your client. The environment

must be very clean, comfortable and well equipped. To achieve this
certain preparations are required before starting the treatment
 Set up the facial area.
 Place required supplies and equipment

 Prepare facial bed/couch

 Greet client

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  Help client to remove clothing and change into facial gown
 Remove and safely store clients‘ jewellery.
 Place towels across clients‘ chest
 Ask client if she would like a blanket/sheet.
 Place head band around client‘s hairline.
 Place head wrap/towel around head.
 Wash hands with soap water or sanitizer.
 Remove make up/eye makeup etc.
4. Basic Massage Manipulations for facial:

The word massage is derived from the Arabic word ‗Masa‘, meaning to
―touch‖ or ―stroke‖. Massage is a scientific method of manipulation of the
body by rubbing, pinching or stroking with the hands, or fingers or an
instrument.
(i) Effleurage: This is light, continous movement applied in a slow
and rhythmic manner over the skin. No pressure is applied. Over
large surfaces, the palm is used; while over small surfaces, the
fingertips are employed. Effleurage is frequently applied to the
forehead, face and scalp for its soothing and relaxing effects.
(ii) Petrissage: In this movement, the skin and flesh are grasped
between the thumb and fingers. As the tissues are lifted from
their underlying structures, they are squeezed. Rolled or pinched
with a light, firm pressure. This movement exerts an invigorating
effect on the part being treated.
(iii) Friction: This movement requires pressure on the skin while it is
being moved over the underlying structures. The fingers or palms
are employed in this movement. Friction has a marked influence
on the circulation and glandular activity of the skin.
(iv) Precussion or tapotement: This form of massage is the most
stimulating. It should be applied with care and discretion.
Tapping movements are gentler than slapping movements.
Percussion movements tone the muscles and impart a healthy
glow to the part being massaged. In tapping, the fignertips are
brought down against the skin in rapid succession, whereas in
slapping, the whole palm is used to strike the skin. Hacking
movement employs the outer ulnar borders of the hands which
are struck against the skin in alternatve succession. In facial
massage, only light digital tapping is used.

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 (v) Vibrations: The fingertips or vibrator are used to transmit a
trembling movement to the skin and its underlying structures. To
prevent over-stimulation, this movement should be used
sparingly and should never exceed a few seconds duration on
any one spot.
5. Procedure for a Facial:

You should ensure that your client is comfortable and warm before
beginning the facial. Speak in a low tone. Don‘t forget to clean your
hands before starting.
 Clean your client‘s face and neck area with cleansing milk or
lotion.
 Remove the cleanser with facial sponges, tissues, moist cotton
pads, or warm, moist towels. Start at the forehead and following
the contours of the face, remove all the cleanser from one area
of the face before proceeding to the next. Finish with the neck,
chest and back.
 Exfoliate the skin. Take appropriate quantity of scrub. Then
massage gently. Keep your hand moist by dipping in water as
required. This procedure is to be continued for 3-4 minutes. Then
rinse with water.
 Massage with cream/gel using the same procedure as for the
cleanser. Massage the face, using the facial manipulations.

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 Fig. 7.4.: Massages of Facial

 Remove massage cream with tissues, warm moist towels, moist

cleansing pads, or sponges. Follow the same procedure as for
removing cleanser.
 Apply a mask/pack formulated for the client‘s skin condition with
the help of natural bristle brush, starting at the neck. Use long
slow strokes from the center outward and proceed to the jawline
and apply the mask on face from the center outward on one-half
of the face, then the other.
 Allow it it to remain on the face for five to ten minutes. Remove
the mask with a wet cotton pads or sponges.

 Apply toner/astrigent and finally moisturizer or sunscreen.

6. Exfoliation Treatment:

It is a process to remove dead skin cells. Facial scrubs are technically

known as exfoliatiors. Removal of dead skin cells is essential for

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maintenance. Exfoliation treatment clogged press and help to slow down
wrinkling.
Procedure:
 Clean the face with cleansing milk.
 Exfoliate the skin with scrubs gently for 3 to 5 min. Rinse off with
tap water.
 Then apply a face pack for 10 min. Remove face pack using
water and apply a moisturizer.
7. Basic Clean Up:

A clean up helps to cleanse, exfoliate and moisturize the skin.

Blackheads, white heads are cleared by gently steaming and then
scrubbing over the skin. After removing the scrub another creamy
cleanser is applied and the skin is exfoliated further with a soft rotating
electric brush and massaged. It is useful for all skin types, and can be
done on people under the age of 25 also.
Benefits:

 It reduces tanning
 Removes dirt and blackheads
 Provides a clean and glowing complexion
8. Types of Facials:

Many types of facials are being offered and practiced in salons. The
different skin types, age, skin problems demand different types of care
and products. Besides many salon offer their own types too. Some offer
and use only herbal products while other use specific brands.
Every facial has four basic steps:
(i) Cleaning

(ii) Exfoliation
(iii) Massage
(iv) Face packs and masks
The difference between a facial and a cleanup is that the skin is
massaged for a longer period of time in a facial.
Some different types of facials are:
(i) Herbal Facial: It is the best option for normal skin that is not
prone to acne. Herbal products are used in this facial.

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 (ii) Fruit Facial: It is another good option for all types of skin. Fresh
fruits or juices are used in this facial. It provides nourishment to
the skin.
(iii) Anti- tan Facial: It is used to remove tan from the skin. Dust and
sun rays make the skin dull and dark. This facial makes the skin
fairer and provides radiance to the skin.
(iv) Anti-aging Facial: In an anti-aging facial all ingredients used are
to control wrinkles and fine lines. it is usually done at the age of
40 and above.
(v) Acne Facial: It is a treatment for Acne prone skin. After
cleansing, the treatment begins with exfoliation and followed by a
skin calming, anti-bacterial masks. Use gel instead of cream for
massage. This is also advised for oily skin.
9. Masks and Packs:

Face masks contain a variety of different ingredients to have a deep

cleansing, toning or nourishing effect on the skin. Masks and Packs are
special cosmetic preparations applied to the face to benefit and beautify
the skin. There are various types of facial masks, each having its own
benefit and each suited for a particular type of skin.
(i) Orange Peel off mask: It is generally applied as a thin layer
over the face avoiding the eye area. After 20 minutes peel if off in
the single piece. This type of mask is specially good for removing
sun tan. They are readily available in the market and cannot be
prepared at home.
(ii) Fruit mask: They can be used as per the skin type. Place a
piece of gauze over the face. Mix and blend the fruit as per skin
type. Like banana and papaya can be used for dry skin and
orange and cucumber can be used for oily skin. Let it remain on
face for 20 minutes and then remove and wash the face with
normal water.
(iii) Thermoherb mask: This mask is usually a setting product,
which means that it dries after application and provides a
complete closure to the environment on top of the skin. It can be
removed in the form of mask in one single piece. It is used as an
anti-aging mask.
(iv) Clay Pack: These are clay preparations used to stimulate
circulation and temporarily contract the pores of the skin. They
contain clay, kaolin, or silica and absorb sebum. They are good

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 for oily skin and combination skin. Clay masks are applied with a
mask brush and are allowed to set for about 10 minutes.
10. Advance Cosmetics used for Anti-Ageing in facial treatments:

Anti-aging facials use those cosmetics and techniques that are designed
to slow the aging process, brighten skin and reduce wrinkles. Let us
learn about some of the cosmetics that you will be using while giving
anti-aging facials.
(i) Serums and gels - These have a non greasy texture and high
concentration of active ingredients. They are not usually
designed to be used on their own except on oily skin. They are
generally applied under a moisturizer to enhance its benefits and
boost the anti aging process.
(ii) Skin firmers - They are in the form of creams and lotion. They
tightens your skin and reduces the appearence of fine lines.
(iii) Ampule Treatment - They are very concentrated active
ingredients contained in sealed glass or ampules. They are
extracts of wheatgerm, herbs, vitamins and collagen.
11. Benefits of Facial:
Facials not only help to maintain healthy and clear skin but are also very
relaxing. There are many other benefits as:
 It relieves body tension and improves blood circulation
 Dead cells are loosened and shed, so the appearance of the skin
is improved.

 The muscles receive and improve supply of oxygenated blood

essential for cell growth. Muscles are toned up and improved.
 Blood capillaries are dilated and bring more blood to the skin
surface, this improves skin color.
 The skin and all its structures are nourished and help reduce soft
lines and wrinkles.

 The skin is rendered soft and pliable.

12. Post care of client after a facial:

 Remove massage cream with warm moist towels.

 Apply astringent/toner/freshener.
 Apply mask/pack. Allow to remain on face for 7-10 minutes.
 Remove mask/pack with moist towels.
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  Wrap face with a warm moist towel for 5 minutes.
 Perform hand and arm massage.
 Remove mask/pack from face and apply sunscreen.
13. Precautions to be observed:
(i) Precautions to be observed while removing black heads:

 For excessive black heads steaming is necessary to soften the

skin.
 Use black head remover to remove black heads.
 Sanitize the tool first and apply astringent on the area before and
after removing black heads.
 Use tissue papers while removing black heads
 Use ice cubes immediately after removal of black heads to close
the pores of skin.
(ii) Precautions to be observed while steaming:

 Use preferably distilled water in the steamer

 Use clean towels.
 Check for any defect before using the steamer.
 Check the temperature so that it does not cause any discomfort
to the client
 Do not steam beyond 2 to 3 minutes and check for temperature
in between.
 Wash hand before and after treatment.
 Check that the client has no infectious conditions.
Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. _______________ is the largest organ of the body.

2. There is a third layer of skin which is made of fatty tissues called
________________ layer.
3. The cells of cornified layer contain a hard substance called
_________________.
4. Melanocytes cells contain _____________, a brownish pigment that
determines skin colour.

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5. The pore size is enlarged in ________________ type of skin.
6. Silver patches in the wood lamp test indicates ____________ type of
skin.
7. The daily skin care routine includes Cleaning, toning and
_________________.
8. Steaming is helpful to clear up _______________ which is one of
the skin disorder.
9. ________________ is a process that lightens the colour of the facial
hair.
10. Do patch test product first on arm and wait __________ hours before
using on large area, because you could be allergic or very sensitive
to the product.
11. _______________ is the movement in which the skin and flesh are
grasped between the thumb and fingers.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Introduction to Thermal Hair styling,
Setting and Blow Drying, Thermal Waving and Curling along with
handling of thermal irons and flat irons, Thermal Hair Straightening.

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Answers to Check Your Progress

1. Skin
2. subdermis
3. keratin
4. melanin
5. Greasy/oily skin
6. dry
7. Moisturizing

8. Blackheads or Comedones
9. Bleaching
10. 24
11. Petrissage

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 Unit-8

Makeup

Structure

Overview
Objectives
8.1. Make-Up: Meaning and Importance

8.2. Cosmetics and other materials used in Makeup

8.3. Makeup Brushes and its Types
8.4. Types of Makeup

8.5. Procedure of Makeup

8.6. Contraindications of Makeup
Check Your Progress

Let Us Sum Up
Answers to Check Your Progress

Overview

In this unit you will learn about Meaning and Importance of Make-Up,
Cosmetics and other materials used in Makeup, Makeup Brushes and its
Types, Types of Makeup, Procedure of Makeup and Contraindications of
Makeup.

Objectives

After learning this Unit, you will be able to understand about:

 Meaning and Importance of Make-Up

 Cosmetics and other materials used in Makeup
 Makeup Brushes and its Types

 Types of Makeup
 Procedure of Makeup
 Contraindications of Makeup

8.1. Make-up: Meaning and Importance

Due to the exposure to media and films we have become more aware of
how we can look beautiful by using appropriate make up. As ladies are

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working and socially more active they want to look good and well
groomed for each and every occasion. You are aware that different
types of makeup are required for different types of occasions, vocations
and age.
Make up application is an art. The purpose of makeup is to enhance the
beauty of the face by highlighting the good features and minimizing the
less attractive ones.
Nowadays trends in makeup have changed from dramatic to more
natural styles. Makeup can change a client‘s appearance by using
methods of shaping their facial features with colour, contour, and
highlights. In this lesson, you shall learn about different types and
techniques of makeup, you will be required to assist in.
As we all know that, applying colour to the body, especially the face, has
been a custom throughout recorded history. Makeup was used for face
and body to;
(i) Camouflage against a hostile environment.
(ii) To indicate status

(iii) For important religious ceremonies.

Importance of makeup:

We all know that make up helps us to look our best. Makeup is important
for the following reasons:
 Makeup is used to highlight the special features and hide the
unattractive ones

 Used for contouring to change the shape and size of the face.
 To make a person look beautiful and attractive
 To increase confidence and self esteem
 Impart a feeling of goodness and joy
 To protect the skin from sun damage
 To make the skin look flawless and picture perfect.
 Makeup provides protection against pollution, which is as
importance as SPF protection, especially if you are living in a big
industrial city.

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 Fig. 8.1 Makeup Kit

8.2. Cosmetics and other materials used in makeup

Makeup is now a big industry, with a large number of products and

cosmetics being available for customers of all economic means.
Let us study about some of the basic cosmetics used in makeup:
A. Cosmetics – Makeup cosmetics are available in liquid, cream,
powder and stick forms. The following are some of the basic cosmetics
used in makeup.
1. Cleansers: Cleansers are available in milk and cream form and
are used for cleansing the skin. Remember, makeup is always
applied on a clean skin. Gel cleansers and astringent are used
for cleansing oily skins.
2. Concealers: Concealers are intended to cover up skin
imperfections on the face such as blemishes and dark circles
around the eyes. It can be applied using a brush and are typically
used in conjunction with foundation.
3. Foundation: It is used as a base for the makeup. It is available
in water based formulas for normal or oily skin and in oil based
formulas for dry skin. It provides an ideal surface to receive other
cosmetics.
4. Face Powder: It is used to help set the makeup and gives a dull
matte finish. It comes in powder or compressed form.
5. Cheek colour: It is used to highlight the cheek bones or cover
up skin imperfections. It gives the cheeks a soft, warm glow.
They are available in cream and powder form.

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 Fig. 8.2.: Blushers

6. Highlighter: It is used to highlight the high points of the face to

make it look luminous and shiny. It is used on the bridge of the
nose, cheeks and at the corners of the eyes. They are available
in many colours such as silver, golden, bronze etc.
7. Eye shadow: It is used to add colour to the eyelids. It is
available in cream, pencil, powder and crayon form. It is applied
using eye shadow applicators.

Fig. 8.3.: Eye shadow

8. Eye brow colour: It is used to draw fine lines in the eyebrow

area. Eyebrow colour is available in many shades like grey,
brown and black. It can be in pencil or compressed powder form.
9. Eye liner: It is used to outline the eyes. They are available as
liquid, pencil and cake form.
10. Mascara: It is used to add colour and thickness to the eyelashes.
The cake and cream types are applied with a brush. Liquid

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 mascara comes in a tube. Water proof mascara is very popular.
11. Lipstick, lip colour, and lip gloss: It is used on lips. Lip colour
is available in stick and cream form. These are available in
endless variety of colour. Lip liner pencils are used to outline the
lips.
Material used for makeup:

 Head band
 Cotton balls

 Tissues
 Sponges
 Cleansing milk/cream/gel
 Astringent
 Eye lash curler
 Beauty chair
 Wood lamp
 Magnifying glass

8.3. Makeup Brushes and its Types

Brushes are used to apply different cosmetics. They range from thin liner
brushes to fat, fluffy powder brushes.
Some of the common makeup brushes are described below.
1. Foundation Brush:
Designed to achieve a smooth and flawless finish, the bristles are tightly
packed with a tapered tip for fluid application. Dampen the brush first in
warm water and firmly squeeze the excess into a towel or tissue, this will
help achieve a more even distribution. You can also blend any brush
strokes as you go with a damp natural or wedge sponge.

Fig. 8.4.: Foundation Brush

2. Concealer/Camouflage Brush:

A soft bristled, flat brush with a wider base and a pointed tip. Used to
apply concealer under the eyes, to spots and to camouflage problem

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areas such as broken capillaries and areas of discolouration.

Fig. 8.5.: Concealer/Camouflage Brush

3. Buffing Brush:
Made from a blend of goat and synthetic fibres this brush is ideal for
buffing and blending colour. The flat, circular, feathery head provides
lightweight and buildable coverage of liquid, cream or powder. Used to
blend cream blush onto the apples of the cheeks or for a light dusting of
shimmer powder to the cheek and brow bones.

Fig. 8.6.: Buffing Brush

4. Bronzer/Powder Brush:

Soft, full and rounded, this brush can be used for both compact powder
and bronzer. The bristles pick up the perfect amount of colour and
distribute flawlessly onto the skin. Load the brush with the powder and
shake away any excess before spreading it onto the skin.

Fig. 8.7.: Bronzer/Powder Brush

5. Mineral Powder Brush:

A thick bundled brush that can sometimes be used both wet and dry. It is
expertly designed to buff mineral powder. Apply in small circular motions
for a faultless finish.

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 Fig. 8.8.: Mineral Powder Brush
6. Fan Powder Brush:

Created for use with loose powder, the fine fan sweeps a light dusting of
powder onto the skin for a soft, velvety effect. This application technique
avoids heavy coverage which can highlight fine lines and imperfections.
These brushes are also used to remove excess powder on the face.

Fig. 8.9.: Fan powder brush

7. Blusher Brush:

Made with fine, gentle fibres the blusher brush has a rounded head
which is perfect for applying colour to the cheeks. Sweep and blend
along the cheekbone drawing the brush up into the hairline.

Fig. 8.10.: Blusher Brush

8. Face Contour Brush:

Slanted and rounded in shape, the contour brush mimics the angles of
the cheekbones. This is ideal for highlighting and shading with bronzer
or illuminating powder. Use with cream, gel or powder to contour for a
dramatic makeup.

Fig. 8.11.: Face Contour Brush

9. Eye Shadow Brush:

Large, flat, short and brimming with bristles for excellent coverage. The
soft bristles have a bevelled edge for a smooth application without
‗dragging‘ the eyelid. Use to apply all over colour.

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 Fig. 8.12.: Eye Shadow Brush
10. Angle Eye Shadow Brush:

A long, round and tapered brush perfect for shading the eye socket. Just
gently follow the natural crease of the socket blending back and forth to
build up depth of colour.

Fig. 8.13.: Angle Eye Shadow Brush

11. Blending Eye Shadow Brush:

Use this light brush to blend eye colours and to highlight the brow bone.

Fig. 8.14.: Blending Eye Shadow Brush

12. Fine Point Eyeliner Brush:

The extra fine tip of this brush delivers precise liquid and gel eyeliner
application. A perfect line can be achieved in one stroke, or use the point
to dot in between lashes for a more subtle effect.

Fig. 8.15.: Fine point Eyeliner Brush

13. Flat Eyeliner Brush:
Allows eyeliner to be applied deep into the lash line for a richer and
more distinct eye. Gently brush upwards to soften and blend the line for
a smokey eye.

Fig. 8.16.: Flat Eyeliner Brush

14. Smudger Brush:

You‘re most likely to find these doubled ended with an eye pencil. The
foam tip is used to soften the harsh line of the pencil giving a
smouldering finish. Larger ones can also be used for applying
eyeshadow.

Fig. 8.17.: Smudger Brush

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15. Slanted Eyebrow Definer Brush:

Used to define and fill brows for a beautifully symmetrical appearance.

The bristles are stiff and angled for precise control. Apply powder, liquid
or cream in short strokes mimicking the hairs, fill sparse areas, shape
and elongate for a perfect brow.

Fig. 8.18.: Slanted Eyebrow definer Brush

16. Spiral Eyebrow Brush:

Ideal for taming unruly hairs, the stiff bristles smooth and comb
eyebrows into form. When shaping, use to brush hairs upwards and trim
the excess for neatly groomed brows.

Fig. 8.19.: Spiral Eyebrow Brush

17. Lip Brush:
The sculpted tip of a lip brush is perfect for achieving a flawless line. The
bristles are short and firm for controlled application.

Fig. 8.20.: Lip Brush

8.4. Types of Makeup

Makeup application varies according to the time of day and the

occasion. Age is also an important factor impacting choice of makeup.
1. Matte finish natural Makeup:

Fig. 8.21.: Matte finish makeup

A very soft, natural looking effect is best for day time occasions. Matte
finish products are used in this kind of makeup. It enhances the natural
beauty and does not appear artificial. No glitters are used in this make

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up. Even lip colours are of matte finish. It gives a beautiful look without
showing any trace of makeup. This is also referred to as ―day make up‖.
2. Luminous and Glittery Makeup:

The principles for this make up are the same as for matte finish make
up. However, more bright colour, and glitters are used on the cheeks,
lips and over the eyes to counteract the effect of artificial lighting on the
face. The base used for this makeup is cream based and shiny frosted
colours are used. Gold, silver and bronze eye colour are also used on
the eyelids. Artificial lashes may be longer for this evening makeup. This
kind of makeup can be worn for evening parties and special occasions.

Fig. 8.22.: Glittery Makeup

3. Glamour Makeup:
This makeup is more elaborate and exotic than the usual or any other
type of makeup. Eyebrows may be winged or arched in a dramatic
fashion. Eyeliners may be wider and the eyelashes longer.

Fig. 8.22.: Glamour Makeup

Eyeliners tend to vary with the fashion trend. Colour used may also be of
an unusual manner. A mixture of gold, silver, mauves, bright blues,
browns pinks, greens and white may be applied to the eye area. The

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cheeks may be devoid of colour or may be covered with intense colour.
Lip colours blend with the cheek colours. This kind of make is used for
high fashion parties. Models also wear this kind of makeup. To complete
this high fashion or trendy look the hair style and wardrobe chosen must
be compatible. Trend makeup techniques change to keep up with new
trends in fashion.
4. Corrective makeup:

The purpose of corrective makeup is to minimize the weak features by

drawing attention away from them. This is achieved by using a
foundation that is darker or lighter than the skin colour. Shadows are
created by the use of darker colour. Darker colour make the facial
features appear smaller. Highlights are created by the use of lighter
colours. These can make the features appear larger. Lines drawn with
an eyebrow pencil can be used to increase or decrease the length of the
eye brow in order to achieve facial balance. Eyeliners that ends in
upward ―wing‖, will lengthen the size of the eye, while a line that goes
into the outside corner will shorten the length of the eye. A wider nose
can be made to appear narrow by using a darker foundation on the
sides. The length of the lip can be altered by the use of a heavier or
lighter application of colour in the corners of lips. One can be creative
and experiment but always remember to cater to the client‘s need.
Client‘s choice should be first priority.

Fig. 8.23: Corrective Makeup as per shape of the face

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5. Air brush makeup:

Airbrush make up is a makeup in which makeup is sprayed on to the

skin using an airbrush instead of being applied with sponges, brushes,
fingers, or other methods. An airbrush is characterized by 3 major parts.
A powdered compressor is used to create an even and controllable air
flow through a medical grade hose. It is mainly used for bridal makeup.
The technique was first used in 1959.

Fig. 8.24.: Air brush makeup

Air brush make up is applied by layering several layers of makeup.

Foundation is sprayed on to the face at a distance of 6-12 inch. Stencils
are commonly used to assist the application of difficult areas such as
eyes and lips. The skin looks flawless, shiny and of even tone.
6. Bridal Makeup:

Fig. 8.25.: Bridal Makeup

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The bridal makeup is quite similar to glamour makeup. Air brush make
up can also be used as bridal makeup. Bridal makeup also includes
forehead decoration. This is done matching it to the colour of lipstick and
dress worn by the bride. Bridal make up is more decorative, as a lot of
jewellery is also worn by the bride. The bride supports jewellery items
like maangtika, nosepin, ‗haath phool‘ etc. Besides the hair do is also
made more decorative through the use of flowers and jewellery items
like studded hair pins etc.

8.5. Procedure of Make-Up

You cannot follow a fixed pattern for applying makeup as it varies from
person to person, but you must consider the following points while doing
makeup.
 Wash your hands
 Drape the client. Use a strip around the hairline.
 Cleanse the face and neck thoroughly with cleansing cream or
lotion.
 Moisten cotton pads and apply astringent (for oily skin)

 Apply moisturizer.
 Foundation colour is extremely important and should be chosen
with great care. To select the proper colour, dab some foundation
on the jaw and blend it. The shade of foundation should blend
with the skin tone.
 Place a small amount of foundation in the palm of the hand.
Apply a few dots to the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin. Spread
the foundation with a makeup sponge and blend it properly.
 After foundation apply face powder with the powder puff.
Remove excess powder with clean cotton.
 Apply eyebrow pencil. Use several strokes of pencil to achieve a
natural- looking feathery effect.

 Then apply eye shadow. Blend it out to the corner of the eye.
Smudge the edges for a softer look.
 Apply eye liner; by drawing a fine line close to the eyelashes.

 Then apply Mascara to the upper lashes by stroking from

underneath. Hold the center of the eyebrow to protect the client.
 Apply cheek colour. The colour should be placed in the apple of
the cheek. Do not let cheek colour to touch the eye socket area.

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 Use a stiff brush to apply the blusher.
 Then apply lipstick. First outline the lips with a lip liner pencil or a
lip brush. Then fill the lip colour with a brush. Apply more colour
until the lips are completely filled out.
Precautions:

 Sanitize your hands before and after makeup application

 Ensure that mascara does not enter the eyes
 Sanitize mascara, eyebrow and lip brushes after use.
 Discard all sponges
 Wash all drapes that touch the client‘s skin
 Be sure that your fingernails are filed smoothly, so that you do
not scratch the client.
 Remove cleanser, cosmetics from the container with a spatula,
and not with your fingers
 Apply lipstick with the help of a brush. Avoid touching lipstick to
the client‘s lips.
After Care Advise:

 Do not touch the face

 Avoid drinking and eating, if required use straws for drinking and
forks for eating.

 Stay in a cool place to avoid sweating.

8.6. Contraindications of Makeup

 Sensitive or itchy skin

 Allergies to cosmetics
 Acne on the face
 Any skin disease
 Cuts /abrasions
 Swelling
 Bruises

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Check Your Progress

Fill in the Blanks:

1. ________________ and _____________ are used for cleansing oily

skins.
2. _________________ is used as a base for the makeup.
3. _________________ brush is ideal for taming unruly hairs, the stiff
bristles smooth and comb eyebrows into form.
4. ______________ makeup is also referred to as ―day make up‖.

5. In corrective makeup, a wider nose can be made to appear narrow

by using a ________________ on the sides.

Let Us Sum Up

In this unit you have learnt about Introduction to Thermal Hair styling,
Setting and Blow Drying, Thermal Waving and Curling along with
handling of thermal irons and flat irons, Thermal Hair Straightening.

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Answers to Check Your Progress

1. Gel cleansers and astringent

2. Foundation
3. Spiral Eyebrow Brush
4. Matte finish natural Makeup
5. darker foundation

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References

1. https://nios.ac.in/media/documents/nsqf/beauty%20therapy.pdf

2. https://docplayer.net/78509063-Beauty-therapy-nsqf-level-3-job-role-
assistant-beauty-therapist.html
3. https://docplayer.net/39218523-Lesson-5-thermal-hairstyling.html

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