FoxxTave-V2

FoxxTave V2
Clone of the Foxx Tone Machine

with ‘Ultimate’ options
Contents of this document are ©2019 Pedal Parts Ltd.

No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
Important notes
If you’re using any of our footswitch daughterboards,
DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT
• Download and read the appropriate build document for the daughterboard
as well as this one BEFORE you start.
• DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the main
circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be soldered to the
footswitch daughterboard.
POWER SUPPLY
Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be

powered with 9V DC.
COMPONENT SPECS
Unless otherwise stated in this document:

• Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but
check the physical size of them.
• Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V
circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.
LAYOUT CONVENTIONS
Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:
• Electrolytic capacitors:
Long leg (anode) to square pad.
• Diodes/LEDs:
Striped leg (cathode) to square pad. Short leg to square pad for LEDs.
• ICs:
Square pad indicates pin 1.
Schematic + BOM - Foxx Tone Machine
R1 1M R19 470K C1 100n

R2 1K R20 47K C2 100n
R3 47K R21 1K5 C3 1n
R4 47K R22 10K C4 10u elec
R5 100k R23 empty C5 10u elec
R6 100K C6 10u elec
R7 4K7 D1-4 1N34A C7 10u elec
R8 100K D5 1N4001 C8 10u elec
R9 4K7 C9 10u elec
R10 100K q1-4 2N3904* C10 3n3
R11 100K C11 47n
R12 220R SUS 50KB C12 10u elec
R13 15K TONE 50KB C13 10u elec
R14 150K VOL 50KB C14 100u elec
R15 10K C15 empty
R16 1K S1 SPDT** C16 empty
R17 22K
R18 4K7
*Many different medium-gain NPN transistors can be used, i.e. 2N5088, 2N2222
**S1 turns the Octave-up signal on and off
Schematic + BOM - Ultimate Version
R1 1M R19 470K C1 47n

R2 1K R20 47K C2 47n
R3 47K R21 1K5 C3 1n
R4 47K R22 10K C4 10u elec
R5 100k R23 100K C5 10u elec
R6 100K C6 10u elec
R7 4K7 D1-4 1N34A C7 10u elec
R8 100K D5 1N4001 C8 10u elec
R9 4K7 C9 10u elec
R10 100K q1-4 2N3904* C10 15n
R11 100K C11 100n
R12 220R SUS 100KB C12 10u elec
R13 15K TONE 100KB C13 10u elec
R14 150K VOL 100KB C14 100u elec
R15 10K C15 10p
R16 1K S1 SPDT** C16 1n
R17 22K S2 SPDT***
R18 4K7
A few component value changes, and a few extra bits and BOOM! Vintage pedal
appropriated for boutique mojo vibes. C15 added at input, R23 on SUS pot, extra
switch before tone and C16 for FAT/BRIGHT.
*Many different medium-gain NPN transistors can be used, i.e. 2N5088, 2N2222.
**S1 turns the Octave-up signal on and off.
**S2 is the Fat/Bright switch.
If you’re making the
Foxx without the
Fat/Bright switch
you need to add a
jumper as shown
on the unused
switch pads.
PCB layout ©2019 Pedal Parts Ltd.

The power and signal pads on the PCB conform The best way to do that is to solder
to the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so a single pin of each pot in place then melt and
can be paired with the appropriate adjust if necessary before soldering in the other
daughterboard for quick and easy offboard two pins. If your pots don’t have protective
wiring. Check the separate daughterboard plastic jackets ensure you leave a decent gap
document for details. between the pot body and the PCB otherwise
you risk shorting out the circuit.
Be very careful when soldering the transistors
and diodes. They’re very sensitive to heat. Keep To get the pots and switches level it’s best to
exposure to heat to a minimum (under 2 use the enclosure as a guide.
seconds) and leave a few seconds between
soldering each leg.
The glass case of the diodes is very delicate.
Never bend the legs without taking precautions.
Hold the leg with some needle-nosed pliers
right up against the case, then bend the leg with
your finger, using the pliers to take the stress
away from the case.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they
can be mounted flush in the box.
You should solder all other board-mounted
components before you solder the pots. Once
they’re in place you’ll have no access to much of
the board. Make sure your pots all line up nicely.
Test the board!
Check the relevant daughterboard document for more
info before you undertake this stage.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and LED
wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it
doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect
IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small
amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If you’re using a ribbon cable you can tack the wires to the ends of that. It’s a lot easier to take them
off there than it is do desolder wires from the PCB pads.
If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the problem is
with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
Your completed circuit board

including pots
Wire it up (if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BOARD
GND
OUT
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
GND
IN +
L
LE
ED
BOARD
9V
+
D
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND BATTERY
Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug
from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.
The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You
can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to
the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),
and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
Drilling template
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots 7mm
Jacks 10mm
Hammond 1590B Footswitch 12mm
60 x 111 x 31mm DC Socket 12mm
Toggle switches 6mm
It’s a good idea to drill the pot and
toggle switch holes 1mm bigger if
you’re board-mounting them.
Wiggle room = good!
32mm
22mm
27mm
This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
FuzzDog.co.uk

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FoxxTave V2

Clone of the Foxx Tone Machine

Contents of this document are ©2019 Pedal Parts Ltd.

Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be

Unless otherwise stated in this document:

R1 1M R19 470K C1 100n

R1 1M R19 470K C1 47n

PCB layout ©2019 Pedal Parts Ltd.

Your completed circuit board

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