Production of Textiles

IPE 4109
Nurunnabi
Lecturer
National Institute of Textile Engineering &
Research
Basics Of Textile Dyeing, Printing &
Finishing
 Wet processing engineering
Wet processing engineering is one of the major streams in textile engineering refers to
textile chemical processing engineering and applied science. this process is applied on
textile in form of liquid with involves some for chemical action on the textile. Examples:
bleaching, printing, dyeing and printing.
Flowchart of Textile Wet Processing

Textile PreTreatment
 Dyeing
A dye is a coloured substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is
being applied.
Pigments are colored, black, white or fluorescent particulate organic or inorganic solids
which usually are insoluble 
Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers,
yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness
There are three types of dyeing :
1. Fibre dyeing.
2. Yarn dyeing.
3. Fabric dyeing:
a) Woven dyeing.
b) Knit dyeing.
 Grey Yarn inspection

Soft Winding

Batching & Loading

Scouring

Bleaching

Dyeing

Hydro
extraction

Drying

Hard Winding

Delivery Final Inspection

 Grey fabric inspection

Stitching

Brushing

Singeing

Desizing

Mercerizing Bleaching
Scouring Printing

Dyeing
 Scouring

Mercerizing Bleaching Printing

Dyeing

Finishing

Final inspection

Delivery
Grey fabric inspection

Batching

Singeing

Mercerizing

Scouring

Bleaching Printing

Dyeing

Finishing

Final Inspection

Delivery
 Essential Terms and Definition of Dyeing:
Absorbency: The ability of one material to take up another material.
Absorption: The process of gases or liquids being taken up into the pores of a fiber, yarn, or fabric.
Adsorption: The attraction of gases, liquids or solids to surface areas of textile fibers, yarns, fabrics or any materials.
Additive: A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide special properties.
Affinity: Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or Combine together, such as fiber and
dyestuff. Affinity is usually expressed in units of joules (or calories) per mole.
Substantively: The attraction, under the precise conditions of test, between a substrate and a dye (or other
substance) where the latter is selectively extracted from the application medium by the substrate.
After treatment: Any treatment done after fabric production. In dyeing, it refers to treating dyed material in ways to
improve properties; in nonwovens, it refers to finishing processes carried out after a web has been formed and bonded.
Examples are embossing, creping, softening, printing and dyeing.
Ageing: Ageing consists of exposing printing goods to more or less prolonged action of steam at atmospheric pressure to
assist in the diffusion & fixation of the dyes--------- Drying-Curing
Auxiliaries: Chemicals used to facilitate and modify the dyeing process. Most dyes require auxiliaries, though some
(likeCountry Classics) come pre-measured with powdered auxiliaries.
Batch: A group of units of products of the same type, structure, colour and finish, class and composition, manufactured
under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and
testing. Similar word ‘Lot’.
Binder: The binder is a film forming substance made up of long chain macromolecules which when applied to textile
together with the pigment; produce a three dimensionally linked network
Buffering Agent (Buffer): A chemical additive that helps stabilize the dyebath pH. Also improves leveling.
Carbonizing: A chemical process for eliminating cellulosic material from, synthetic and wool or other animal fibers. The
material is reacted with sulfuric acid or hydrogen chloride gas followed by heating. When the material is dry, the
carbonized cellulose material is dust-like and can be removed.
Carrier: A product added to a dye-bath to promote the dyeing of hydrophobic manufactured fibers and characterized
by affinity for, and ability to swell, the fiber.
Cross dyeing: A process of dyeing textiles containing fibers having different dye affinities to achieve a multicolored
effect.
Uneven dyeing: A fabric dyeing that shows variations in shade resulting from incorrect processing or dyeing
methods or from use of faulty materials.

Union dyeing: A process of dyeing textiles containing fibers having different dye affinities to achieve t
he appearance of a uniform, homogenous color.
Depth
of Shade (DOS): a percentage describing the amount of dye used proportional to the dry fiber weight,
or OWOG. To dye 100 grams of fiber to a 1% DOS, your dye powder would weigh 1% of 100 grams, or
1
Hydrophilic: Having strong affinity for or the ability to absorb water.

Hydrophobic: Lacking affinity for or the ability to absorb water. Laboratory sample: A portion of
material taken to represent the lot sample, or the original material and used in the laboratory as a
source of test specimens
Liquor ratio: In wet processing the ratio of the weight of liquid used to the weight of goods treated.
Lot: A unit of production or a group of other units or packages that is taken for sampling or statistical
examination, having one or more common properties and being readily separable from other similar
units
Pad: A machine for impregnating fabrics with chemicals. It consists essentially of a trough followed by
two or more pairs of squeeze rolls.

pH: Value indicating the acidity or alkalinity of a material. It is the negative logarithm of the effective
hydrogen ion concentration. A pH of 7.0 is neutral; less than 7.0 is acidic; and more than 7.0 is basic.

Pick-up: % or weight added per unit weight of fabric.

COLOR is the general term we use to describe every hue, tint, tone or shade we see. White, Black
and Gray are often referred to as a color. 
A HUE refers to the dominant Color Family of the specific color we're looking at. White, Black and
Grey are never referred to as a Hue.
Tint: A Tint is sometimes also called a Pastel. But to be  precise, Color Theory defines a True Tint
as any Hue or mixture of pure colors with only White added
Tone: Color Theory defines a True Tone as any Hue or mixture of pure colors with only Gray added

Shed
Dyeing Mechanism
The sequence of dyeing falls into four stages
1. Transfer of dye onto fiber surface
2. Adsorption
3. Diffusion into the fiber
4. Interaction
Chemicals for Fabric Dyeing | Different Chemicals Used for Fabric Dyeing
Basic study on Textile printing
 DIFFERENT TYPES OF
PRINTING
• BLOCK PRINTING
• ROLLER PRINTING
• SCREEN PRINTING
• FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
• ROTARY PRINTING
• TRANSFER PRINTING
• STENCIL PRINTING
• DIGITAL PRINTING
• BATIK PRINTING
• TIE & DYE
 BLOCK PRINTING
• It is the oldest and simplest way of
printing
• In this method a wooden block with a
raised pattern on the surface was dipped
into the printing colorant and then pressed
face down on to fabric.
• The desired pattern was obtained
by repeating the process using
different colors.
• Generally the wooden block is carved out
of hand
• Printing is done manually
BLOCK PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
 ROLLER PRINTING
• It is the machine method of printing
designs on cloths by engraved rollers.
• The design is engraved on the surface of
a metal roller, to which dye is applied, and
the excess is scraped off the roller's
surface, leaving dye in the engraved
sections. When it rolls across the fabric,
the dye on the roller transfers to the fabric.
ROLLER PRINTING M/C
ROLLER PRINTING
 STENCIL PRINTING
• It is one of the oldest way of printing.
• In it color is applied to the fabric by
brushing or spraying the interstices of a
pattern cut out from a flat sheet of metal or
waterproof paper or plastic sheet or
laminated sheet.
• A stencil is prepared by cutting out a
design from a flat sheet of paper, metal, or
plastic.
A simple stencil design
Example of stencil printing
 SCREEN PRINTING
• It involves the application of the printing
paste through a fine screen placed in
contact with the fabric to be printed.
• A design is created in reverse on the
screen by blocking areas of the screen
with a material such as an opaque paint.
• The screen is then placed over the fabric
and the printing paste is forced through
the open areas of the screen using a
flexible synthetic rubber or steel blade
known as a squeegee.
PROCESS OF SCREEN PRITING

SCREEN PAPER SIDE SCREEN SQUEEZE SIDE

ORIGINAL PRINT PRINT ON FABRIC

 FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
• It is the advanced version of screen
printing by using automatic m/c to do work
• It consists of printing table, conveyor belt,
number of screens, mechanism to print on
the fabric, etc.
• First the fabric is brought on the printing
table through a feeding arrangement and
it is gummed to the conveyor belt on the
table
• Conveyor brings fabric periodically under
screen and stops while the screen are
lowered on the required parts of the fabric.
• Printing paste is distributed throughout the
full length of the screen.
• The squeeze is pressed to the screen .
• One or more strokes of the squeeze
ensure simultaneous printing of the
pattern by the common action of all
screens which applies printing paste as
required by the color in the design.
FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING M/C
 ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING
• Rotary screen printing involves a series of
revolving metal cylinder , each with
revolving screens, each with a stationary
squeegee inside which forces the print
paste onto the fabric.
• Twenty or more colours can be printed at
the same time.
• The process is much quicker and more
efficient than flat screen printing .
Working of rotary screen
printing m/c
A rotary screen printing m/c
Feeding of color to rollers
 TRANSFER PRINTING
• It is a indirect method of printing in which
dyes are transferred from paper to a
thermoplastic fabric under controlled
conditions of temperature, time and pressure.
• The image is first engraved on a copper
plate.
• Then pigment is applied on these
plates.
• The image is then transferred to a piece
of paper, with a layer of glue applied .
• This is then placed on the fabric and heat and
pressure applied which fixes the print onto
Process of transfer printing
 RESIST PRINTING
• There are two types of resist printing
• BATIK PRINTING
• TIE & DIE PRINTING
 BATIK PRINTING
• Originated on island of Java and is a
cottage based industry.
• Batik is derived from word
“AMBATIK”
• The resist-dyeing process, whereby
designs are made with wax on a fabric
which is subsequently immersed in a dye
to absorb the color on the unwaxed
portions, is known as batik printing.
• Special feature is the fine lines of color
running irregularly across the fabric.
 TIE & DYE
• It is same as that of batik printing but here
the dye is resisted by knots that are tied in
the cloth before it is immersed in dye
bath.
• The outside of the knotted portion is dyed,
but inside is not penetrated if the knot is
firmly tied.
• This gives a characteristic blurred or
mottled effect .
Printing Paste Ingredients and their Functions

Generally following ingredients are used in printing

paste:
1.Dyestuffs or pigment.
2.Wetting agents.
3.Thickener.
4.Solvents dispersing agents.
5.Defoaming agents.
6.Oxidizing and reducing agents.
7.Catalyst and oxygen carrier.
8.Acid and alkali.
9.Career and swelling agent.
10.Miscellaneous agent
•1. Dyes/Pigments:

Functions:Attraction of dyestuff to the fiber due to

presence of auxochrome.
•To achieve color effect on the fabric.
•To produce required shade.
•Example: Vat, Azoic, Reactive, Direct dye etc.

2. Wetting agents:

Functions:To wet the fabric as well as dyestuff.

•To reduce surface tension of water allowing the dyestuff
for easy penetration into fiber.
•To obtain smooth paste.
•To dissolve the dyestuff in the paste.
Example: Olive oil, T.R oil, Caster oil, Lissapol N, Animal
oil, Glycerine.
•3. Solvents/Dispersing agents/Solution acids:

Functions:To get bright design,

•To assist dye penetration,
•To spread dye molecules evenly in the paste,
•Assist dye fixation,
•To prevent aggregation of dye molecules in the highly concentrated of the dye.
•To prevent precipitation.
•To increase solubility of the dyes.
•To make proper printing shade.
•Example: Urea, Glycerine, Desirable, Alcohol, Acetone, Diethylene glycol, Thio
diethylene glycol.

4. Thickener:

Functions:To give required viscosity to the printing paste

•To prevent premature reactions between the chemicals contained in the print paste.
•To hold the ingredients of the print paste on the fabric.
•Example: Na-alginate, Fine gum, British gum, CMC.

5. Defoaming agents:

Functions:To prevent the foam generation during printing.

Example: Silicone, Defoamers, Sulphated oil, Perminol KB, Emulsified pine oil.
•6. Oxidizing agents:

Functions:To develop the final color during steaming or in the subsequent after
treatment.
•Assists to dye fixation.
•Example: Sodium chlorate, Potasium chlorate, Sodium nitrate, Resist salt, Ammonium
chlorite, Ludigol, Na or K dichromate.

7. Reducing agents:

Functions:Used for reduction of different dyes.

•Used for mainly in discharge printing.
•To destroy color from the ground of fabric.
•To make the insoluble dyes to soluble.
•Example: Sodium hydrosulphite, Stanus chloride etc. Rongolite-C.

8. Catalyst and oxygen carrier:

Functions:To prevent fiber damage during steaming.

•Accelerate the final color development by oxidation.
•Reduce the risk of oxidation.
Example: Copper sulphide, Ammonium vanadate, Potassium ferrocyanide.
•9. Acids/Alkalis:

Functions:To maintain pH.

•To develop the color or printed fabric.
•To fix dye on the fabric permanently.
•Example: Organic acid, Alkali KOH, NaOH, Na2CO3, Pottasium carbonate, Sodium bicarbonate, Sodium
acetate.

10. Swelling agents:

Functions:To create the big size holes of the fibers.

•Helps to swell the fiber structure.
•To reduce crystallinity.
•Help the easy penetration of dye molecule inside the fiber polymer.
Example: Polyethylene glycol, Phenols, DEGDA (Di-ethylene glycol diacetate)
•11. Carrier:

Functions:Used for fixing disperse dyes on polyester or polyester wool blends at temperature below 105oC.
•Example: Diphenol, Ortho-phenol, Tri-chloro benzene

12. Miscellaneous agent:

Functions:Assist fixation of dyes.

•Absorb moisture from air.
•Facilitates subsequent washing off.
Example: Urea, Glycerine etc.

13. Mild oxidizing agent:

During steaming of ago color, the partial color can be destroyed by the effect of reducing. To secure of this
condition, mild agent is used.

Example: Ludigol, Resist salt.

Thank You