NYCReview

photo credit: Kate Previte

A spread of dishes at The Fly.
8.7

The Fly

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American

Bedford-Stuyvesant

$$$$Perfect For:Casual DinnersEating At The BarBirthdays

The food section takes up approximately 1/10th of The Fly’s three page-menu—the rest is devoted to drinks—but don’t come here expecting throwaway bar snacks. Instead, in a cavernous space that’s loud enough for a birthday and candlelit enough for a date night, this Bed-Stuy restaurant (from the Cervo’s, Hart’s, and Eel Bar team) serves a no-fuss menu of chicken and sides. It’s an effortlessly simple formula for dinner, where the hardest decision you'll make is between a martini or wine tonight. And yet, a meal at The Fly is one we find ourselves craving, over and over again.

That’s largely due to their chicken, which is slow-roasted on a rotisserie, and lacquered with a smoky, brick-red spice mix that you'll spend a good portion of dinner trying to analyze. (It’s some combination of coriander, paprika, fennel, orange zest, and aleppo pepper, but that’s only the beginning.) That blend shows up everywhere—like Cheeto dust on fries, seeped into chicken fat and draped over potatoes, or clinging onto mixed olives—and yet nothing here tastes repetitive. 

Now it's possible that choosing between the approximately five sides may feel overwhelming, once you're one martini (or glass of wine) deep. Our biggest piece of advice? Just order the whole menu—especially if you’re here with more than three people. You can skip dessert, but let them know if it’s your birthday, because then there are also free shots and a sparkler.

The Fly is walk-in only, but it’s never too hard to get a table. (Groups of 8-20 can make a reservation for a $45 per person chicken dinner.) If there’s a wait, just order your first drink, mingle by the bar, and keep tabs on your future table. The bar is also perfect for a solo meal or a hot little date, while the outdoor tables are nice for warm-weather people-watching. Head to a booth with your three very best friends, or reserve a big table in the extra loud, extra cave-like back room for a no-brainer birthday. At The Fly, very special feels very easy.

Food Rundown

The olives at The Fly.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Olives

Start your meal here, with a mix of olives tossed in those mysterious spices and a healthy glug of olive oil. It’s a perfect pairing for your first martini.
Caesar salad at The Fly.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Salad

Essentially a caesar, but an extra light and bright one that works overtime cutting through all the chicken fat. This is a required order.
The chicken at The Fly.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Half Chicken

You can get a half chicken or a whole chicken, but we usually opt for a half chicken so that we can maximize on sides. It arrives in a smoky pool of its own juices, with tender meat and a leathery skin coated in seasoning. Add on the yogurt-based white sauce for dipping.
Fries at The Fly.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Fries

One time we passed The Fly and saw someone sitting at the bar with fries and a glass of wine, and experienced a level of jealousy we never knew we were capable of. The fries are always a yes. Always. They’re also tossed in those familiar reddish spices and served with the aioli that this restaurant group is essentially famous for.
Green beans at The Fly.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Green Beans

Don't expect crisp-tender, bright green beans. Do expect to leave with a newfound appreciation for things that are mushy. The beans are saucy and tomatoey, with just the slightest bite at the end.
Potatoes at The Fly.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Potatoes

If you ever catch yourself thinking you should skip the potatoes because you're already getting the fries, take that thought, and throw it right out the window. The baby potatoes are soft and come submerged in a saucy pool that must be at least 50% chicken fat.

Icebox Cake

The Fly has one dessert—an icebox cake studded with fennel seeds, which also happen to be in that ever-present spice mix. The last time we ate this, it somehow tasted like chicken. We’d opt for another glass of wine instead.

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