The secret message stitched into Melania Trump's garments at Jimmy Carter's funeral that explain her strikingly somber mood

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Melania Trump certainly didn't look pleased to be back in Washington DC.

Just 11 days shy of her husband's inauguration, the mood seemed a little grim as she accompanied her husband up the nave of the Washington National Cathedral and took her place at the far end of a second-row pew for the state funeral of the late President Jimmy Carter.

With no near neighbors to converse with either to the front or back, Melania sat in silence while Trump chatted animatedly with his one-time foe, President Barack Obama.

Melania, meanwhile, looked oblivious, glacial even, staring out unmoved by what was taking place around her.

She seemed wholly uninterested in catching up with fellow members of that most exclusive club – the former First Ladies – sitting just a short distance away.

Melania's solemnity seemed quite excessive even by the standards of a state funeral while the absurdity of her oversized white collar – featuring a neoclassical sculpture of kissing lovers in black and white print – could almost have been a display of mocking disdain.

But, when it comes to Melania, there is always an element of surprise. She had memorably worn grey rather than the usual black for the 2023 funeral of Carter's late wife, Rosalynn, after all.

Now she has confounded her critics once again - this time with an outfit which held a hidden meaning only she, and perhaps her stylist, would ever truly know.

Melania sat in silence while Trump chatted animatedly with President Barack Obama on Thursday.

Melania sat in silence while Trump chatted animatedly with President Barack Obama on Thursday.

Melania seemed wholly uninterested in catching up with fellow members of that most exclusive club, the former First Ladies, sitting just a short distance away.

Melania seemed wholly uninterested in catching up with fellow members of that most exclusive club, the former First Ladies, sitting just a short distance away.

Melania defied convention at the 2023 funeral of Rosalynn Carter, choosing to wear grey rather than traditional black.

Melania defied convention at the 2023 funeral of Rosalynn Carter, choosing to wear grey rather than traditional black.

The long black wool belted coat – and its white collar jutting not so subtly out from under it – were two pieces from a unique three-way collaboration between house designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jun Takahashi of Japanese label Undercover (specializing in streetwear and experimental tailoring) and a group called the Movement for the Emancipation of Poetry, whose members paste lyrical lines on to the walls and monuments of Italian cities.

For this look, I am told, Melania delved into her archives (rather than racing to a designer's door), for the two pieces from Valentino's Fall 2019 collection.

In that show, titled 'Valentino in Love', Piccioli had constructed an illuminated billboard at the end of the runway emblazoned with the words: 'The people you love become ghosts inside of you and like this you keep them alive.'

Audience members found a slim volume of verse on each seat. And it was explained that, with a dash of the 'undercover', Piccioli had selected lines from this special anthology to be hidden inside the clothing so that only the wearer would know what they were hiding and what it said.

What thoughts lay within the fashion pieces chosen by Melania last week?

Only she would know the answer but I think it's highly likely that, as with her subdued demeanor, the decision to wear this particular outfit must have had something to do with her the memory of mother, Amalija Knavs.

Amlija's death a year ago to the day of President Carter's state funeral last week was a life-altering moment for the model turned political consort.

A mother she described as her 'dear friend and an irreplaceable treasure' had been a key albeit barely visible presence in Melania's life.

Amalija and Melania's father became virtually full-time residents of the White House.

Like Michelle Obama's mother, Marian Robinson, Amalija was tasked with providing some normality to the cocoon-like existence at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, both for her daughter and grandson Barron.

Unlike Marian, however, Amalija was rarely paraded on the political stage.

Few outside the DC bubble knew she was even around and, like most of everything else about Melania's private life, she remained exactly that – private.

Amlija's death a year ago to the day of President Carter's state funeral last week was a life-altering moment for the model turned political consort. (Pictured: Melania Trump with her mother at New York City's Olympus Fashion Week Fall in 2004).

Amlija's death a year ago to the day of President Carter's state funeral last week was a life-altering moment for the model turned political consort. (Pictured: Melania Trump with her mother at New York City's Olympus Fashion Week Fall in 2004).

Pictured: Melania at the funeral service of her mother Amalija Knavs on January 18, 2024.

Pictured: Melania at the funeral service of her mother Amalija Knavs on January 18, 2024. 

Melania's decision to deliver the eulogy to a packed congregation at Amalija's Palm Beach funeral was a rare occasion when she summoned the determination to face down her natural dislike of public speaking.

On the anniversary of her death, Amalija would doubtless have been on her daughter's mind, the more so as Melania readies herself for a second starring turn on the very biggest political stage.

It was writ large on her face.

Refusing to use the sad anniversary as an excuse to evade the occasion, or blame a 'scheduling conflict' as did Michelle Obama, Melania instead decided it was yet another moment to defy expectation - which has become something of a habit.