Dynamic and Static Ropes: Manual
Dynamic and Static Ropes: Manual
Dynamic and Static Ropes: Manual
manual
Content:
Knots ......................................................................27
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The standard range for the fall factor is from f = 0 up to f = 2. A higher fall factor
may not occur when a person is using a rope secured to a fixed anchor point. Only
when climbing on a so-called via ferrata (or Klettersteig in German), mountain trails
with fixed climbing aids, the situation can occur where the fall factor will be greater
than two. This is a case where a climber is secured by a short sling of rope attached
to a fixed (steel) cable. In case of a fall, if the distance between the cables anchors
is 5 meters and we have a sling of rope 1 meter long, the fall factor may be as high
as f = 7! The impact force rises to unbearable limits, and can lead to breaking of the
sling or to serious injury to the climber. For this reason, on routes with fixed climbing
aids, special kits are used with built-in shock absorbers, which dampens the impact
force. Our via ferrata sets allow a maximum impact force of 5 kN.
starting position
position after fall
anchor point
H H
L L
H H=L L
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Impact force
Impact force depends mainly on the construction of the rope, the fall factor, the
weight of the climber and the length of the fall. In practice, impact force rises with
the number of falls a rope has withstood and with older ropes as well. The values
of impact force against the last belay anchor may be nearly double because of
the accumulation of force (weight of the falling climber and of the belayer). Every
mountain climber must be prepared for this when setting up belay anchors.
All of this implies the need during actual climbing to reduce as much as possible
any impact force that will affect the climbers and the belaying system in case of
a fall.
Warning! Only a dynamic climbing rope is able to absorb the energy of a fall and
may be used for breaking a fall. Never use static ropes, strong reep cords or tape
slings! Even a short fall on a static sling is an enormous strain on the climber and
the belaying system and can destroy the anchor point. So be careful when moving
at the belay station if you are bound to the anchor by a static strap.
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Climbing rope
Climbing rope is able to break the fall of climbers while producing a small impact
1 force. This is dynamic rope made from braided thread extending without interruption
over the ropes entire length. The rope consists of a core (1) with a sheath (2) and
a thread (3) inside the core for checking the year the rope was made. The material
used for making dynamic rope is polyamide. Its flexibility (elongation) and strength
2 3 give the rope the correct dynamic properties to break falls safely and with less
shock for the climber.
Climbing rope
Our company currently manufactures three types of climbing rope:
- single ropes,
- half ropes,
- twin ropes.
Static rope
Static ropes are braided textile ropes, the design of which is similar to mountain
climbing ropes. They also consist of a core (1) and a sheath (2). The core serves
mainly for supporting weight and consists of individual strands. The sheath holds
the strands together and protects them from various influences (mechanical wear,
chemicals, heat etc.).
Inside the rope is a control strip (3) that provides important identifying information.
Our company currently manufactures two kinds of static ropes:
- rope type A,
- rope type B (lower level of performance).
LANEX makes all of its TENDON ropes and accessory cords in compliance with
the EU standards EN 892, EN 1891 and EN 564 and to UIAA requirements. These
standards cover both the testing methods and the minimum technical parameters.
All of the requirements under these norms guarantee that only a safe product will
reach the customer.
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LABELING ROPES
The manufacturer labels ropes with a piece of adhesive tape bearing the number of
2 1 the norm according to which the rope has been made (EN892 or EN 1891), the type
of rope single, half and twin for mountain climbing ropes, type A or B for static
Static rope ropes and the length of the rope in meters.
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MEANINGS OF INDIVIDUAL SYMBOLS
SINGLE ROPES
A single strand of rope is used for ascents. This is the most basic and most commonly
used method of using ropes for ascents.
HALF ROPES
Individual strands of rope are secured in alternation in advance belays. This system
reduces the risk of rope breakage caused by falling stones, and provides maximum
safety in alpine conditions and for difficult climbs.
TWIN ROPES
Pairs of the same type of rope are always used, sharing the same advance belay
points. Twin ropes guarantee a high level of safety, especially for classic climbing
in alpine conditions.
CE symbol of compliance
The CE symbol declares that the product is in compliance with the safety
requirements of the applicable European standard. The number after the symbol CE
(e.g. CE 0408) identifies the relevant accredited testing lab.
UIAA
Products marked with this symbol meet strict UIAA safety requirements. The UIAA is
the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (Union Internationale des
Associations dAlpinisme). In most cases, UIAA requirements are somewhat stricter
than EC standards. All TENDON climbing ropes meet the requirements of the latest
version of UIAA standards and may therefore bear this symbol.
EN 1891
This norm defines safety requirements and procedures in the EU for testing ropes
with low flexibility (static ropes). Ropes labeled with this symbol comply with the
given safety regulations.
EN 892
This norm defines safety requirements and testing procedures in the EU for dynamic
mountain climbing ropes. Ropes labeled with this symbol comply with the given
safety regulations.
EN 566
This norm defines safety requirements and testing procedures in the EU for slings.
Products labeled with this symbol comply with the given safety regulations.
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EN 564
This norm defines safety requirements and testing procedures in the EU for mountain
climbing accessory cords. Products labeled with this symbol comply with the given
safety regulations.
ISO
International Organization for Standardization unites national normative
organizations from around the world. The ISO 9001 norm defines rules for the entire
quality management process. These rules serve to ensure the permanent quality of
goods and services. Manufacturers are certified by external certification companies,
in our case, TV CERT Munich.
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SBS SIMPLE BRAIDING SYSTEM
With the Simple Braiding System (SBS), each strand is braided into the sheath
separately. SBS sheath construction increases the ropes wear resistance and
improves the ropes mechanical properties, such as flexibility.
COMPACT
A unique technology for making rope ends. Over the last 15 mm of the length of
the rope, the core is fused with the sheath into a single, compact whole, preventing
them from slipping relative to each other.
MIDPOINT OF ROPE
At the midpoint of its length, a rope may be marked with ink that is not harmful to
the ropes structure or mechanical properties. Using a marker with unknown chemical
properties to mark a ropes midpoint may damage the material the rope is made of!
BICOLOUR
A different color or pattern is used for each half of the ropes sheath. Ideal for rappelling.
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MAXIMUM IMPACT FORCE
Impact force is the force that occurs during a first fall under defined conditions (mass
of the load, fall factor, etc.) and that is absorbed by the rope. Under testing, the impact
force increases for each additional test fall the rope is subjected to. How fast the
impact force increases determines the number of standard falls withstood. The higher
the number of standard falls, the longer the service life of the rope for the user. The
practical use of ropes in real climbing or on training walls is different from laboratory
conditions. During standard rope tests, the end of the rope is firmly secured, but in real
climbing, belaying equipment and systems allow for some slippage of the rope, breaking
the fall dynamically. Dynamic belaying dissipates some of the falls energy, thereby
lowering the impact force. For that reason, it is important to know how to use appropriate
dynamic belaying.
WARNING! The fall factor is also of key importance for the amount of impact force.
How far you fall is virtually insignificant for the impact force. The amount of the fall
factor is much more important. A five meter fall with a fall factor of f = 1 will result
in a much lower impact force than a fall of the same length with a factor of f = 2. The
energy of the climbers fall is absorbed by the active length of the rope (shown in the
illustrations in red).
right wrong!!!
leader leader
active (fall)
length of rope
active (fall) L = 2,5 m
advance belay
length of rope anchor point
L=5m
anchor f= 5 =2
2,5
f= 5 =1
5
belayer
length of fall length of fall
belay station
H=5m H=5m
belayer
belay station
anchor point
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SHEATH SLIPPAGE
Using a special machine, this test determines how much the surface of a rope
will slip relative to the core when subjected to a load. The EN 892 establishes
that slippage may not exceed 40 mm when stretching a length of rope measuring
1930 mm, i.e. ca. 1 %.
If the sheath slides over the core during actual climbing, it can lead to bulges and
so-called stockings. If the ends of ropes have not been sealed properly, the core
at the end of the rope can come loose from the sheath or the sheath may extend
longer than the core.
The ends of our ropes are sealed with ultrasound into one indivisible whole, and
if the limits for slippage are complied with, the situation described above will not
occur.
STATIC ELONGATION
Usable static elongation is tested by applying an 80 kg load to the rope. Elongation
may not exceed 10 % for single ropes (one strand) and twin ropes (two strands
tested in tandem) and 12 % for half ropes (one strand).
DYNAMIC ELONGATION DURING A FIRST DROP
This parameter measures the elongation of the rope during the first standard drop.
The maximum allowable dynamic elongation is 40 %. This measurement is a better
indicator of the ropes properties than the static elongation value.
KNOTABILITY
One of the most important requirements for mountain climbing rope is outstanding
flexibility. How is this measured? A section of the tested rope is tied into a simple
knot. Weight is then applied to the rope (10 kg for a single rope). Then the interior
diameter of the knot is measured. The ratio between that diameter and the diameter
of the rope gives the coefficient of knotability. The maximum value of the coefficient
is 1.1 times the diameter of the rope.
WARNING! A rope with poor flexibility is harder to tie in knots and slides less
efficiently through the carabiners of a belaying system. The effects of the elements
or of improper care can reduce a ropes flexibility.
LANEX has built its own laboratory for testing its TENDON ropes, including its own
drop tower. Newly developed ropes to European labs for certification already fully
prepared and with known technical parameters. Most TENDON ropes are tested at
the accredited TV lab in Vienna.
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Requirements of the norm EN 892 dynamic climbing ropes
Required values
Monitored parameter Single rope Half rope Twin rope
Rope diameter undefined undefined undefined
Rope weight undefined undefined undefined
Sheath slippage +- 20 mm +- 20 mm +- 20 mm
Static elongation 10 % * 12 % * 10 % **
Dynamic elongation 40 % + 40 % *** 40 % ++
Impact force of the first fall 12 kN + 8 kN *** 12 kN ++
No. of falls Min. 5 + Min. 5 *** Min. 12 ++
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT CLIMBING ROPES
SINGLE ROPES
These ropes are used in single strands, so they are ideal where there is no increased
danger of ropes being severed by falling rocks. They are appropriate for rocks, cliffs,
vertical rock faces, artificial walls and for climbing big walls. Simple ropes usually
have a diameter of 9 mm or greater. As ropes get thicker, they get stronger and
withstand more falls. Unfortunately, they also get heavier. That is why you need
to choose the right balance between thickness and weight. This will depend on
the experience of the climber and the nature of the climbing involved. Experienced
climbers prefer thin, light ropes. On the other hand, beginners or less experienced
climbers choose thicker ropes with better safety parameters. When climbing new
routes where the risk of falling is greater, a thicker, heavier rope is more appropriate.
On long, multiple pitch routes, you need to make a compromise between thickness
and weight. Of course, everything depends on the experience of the climber. For top
rope climbing, we recommend using ropes made for that purpose indoor ropes.
Choosing the right rope will prolong its life many times.
TWIN ROPES
Pairs of ropes of the same kind are used, sharing the same belaying points. Twin
ropes are ideal for classic climbing activities in the mountains and in unstable
terrain wherever you need increased protection from falling rocks breaking ropes
or from sharp edges damaging rope sheaths. This is not necessarily only for climbing
mountains. You may also find unstable conditions in unfamiliar rocky areas.
HALF ROPES
If pairs of ropes (twin ropes) are used, they provide only standard safety. Half rope
technology, where a left and a right rope lead separately through different belaying
points, can greatly increase safety. If the belay anchors are wide apart, this method
leads to reduced friction while also lowering impact force. For belaying, methods
that allow independent control of each rope must be used. The great advantage of
this system is the possibility of alternate and independent belaying of each strand
separately. Half ropes are useful in alpine conditions, in difficult rock climbing, for
climbing on ice and in mixed terrain.
WARNING! It is not possible to combine twin and half rope belaying elements.
Ropes may be burned if they pass through the same belaying point because of
different speeds of slippage of individual strands if the leader falls.
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TESTING ROPES WITH LOW ELONGATION
(STATIC ROPES) IN ACCORDANCE WITH EN 1891
Diameter
This quantity is measured with a 10 kg load on the rope. The ropes may have
a minimum diameter of 8.5 mm and a maximum of 16 mm.
Elongation
Usable static elongation is measured by applying a test load of 150 kg (after 50 kg
pretensioning). elongation may not exceed 5%.
Static Strength
This is always stated on tags on the ropes. It varies according to the diameter of
max.
the rope and the kind of material used. EN 1891 requires that group A ropes have
5%
a minimum static strength of 22 kN, and that type B ropes have a minimum static
strength of 18 kN.
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100 max. Dynamic Performance
The testing equipment is similar to that used for testing climbing ropes, except that
the rope is ca. 2 m long. At the ends it is tied in figure eight knots and it is tested
with five falls with a fall factor of 1. During the test, the rope must withstand all
M five falls. Type A ropes are tested with a load of 100 kg. Type B ropes are tested
with a load of 80 kg.
x/2
knotability
x This is tested in the same way as mountain climbing ropes: it must not be possible
to insert a bar with a diameter greater than a multiple of 1.2 times the diameter
of the rope into the opening in the knot tightened by the testing force.
Requirements of the norm EN 1891 static ropes
Required values
M Monitored Parameters Rope Type A Rope Type B
Rope diameter 8,5 16 mm
Knotability coefficient Max. 1,2 Max. 1,2
Sheath slippage Max. 40 mm Max. 15 mm
Elongation Max. 5 % Max. 5 %
Shrinkage Undefined Undefined
Impact force Max. 6 kN Max. 6 kN
No. of falls with a fall factor of 1 Min. 5 Min. 5
Strength without knots 22 kN 18 kN
Strength with knots Min. 15 kN (3 minutes) Min. 12 kN (3 minutes)
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TESTING OF ACCESSORY CORDS
DIAMETER
Accessory cords are tested in a manner similar to testing of ropes, except that the
pretensioning is less. According to EN 564, cords should have diameters of 4, 5, 6,
7 and 8 mm. Smaller diameters (2 mm avalanche cords, 3 mm hammer cord) do
not comply with the norm.
STRENGTH
The minimum strength under to EN 564 is shown on the table below:
Diameter Minimum
(mm) strength (kN)
4 3,2
5 5,0
6 7,2
7 9,8
8 12,8
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between individual fibers begins to widen. Moisture is absorbed into the rope more
quickly, bringing with it micro-particles of dust, greatly accelerating the destruction
of the rope. Sharp rock edges, falling rocks or accidental blows with an ice-axe can
seriously damage a rope.
WARNING! It is particularly necessary to monitor carefully any damage to single
ropes if there is no back-up rope to rely on if it is damaged.
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speeds come into contact with each other, causing uncontrollable friction between
them. It is also necessary to be careful on busy routes that ropes do not cross. If one
climber should fall, there is a great danger that crossing ropes will burn each other.
CHEMICAL DAMAGE
Damage from exposure to chemicals usually happens during transport, on expeditions,
during construction work, industrial rescue work and during long-term rope storage.
This can involve damage to the rope by a chemical spilled in a backpack, in a vehicle
storage area, e.g. by sulfuric acid or its fumes from a car battery or fuel fumes,
including fluid for cooking equipment (gasoline or diesel fuel), or other substances.
WARNING! Chemical damage to rope fibers is often not obviously visible, especially
when only the core has been damaged. For prevention of chemical damage to ropes,
one must carefully inspect the location of the rope when it is not being used, and
especially when it is being transported.
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If a rope gets dirty, clean it in warm water (30 C) and let it dry in the shade, away
from direct radiating heat sources.
MOISTURE
If a rope gets wet, it gets heavier and harder to use. If ropes made of PAD are
soaked in water, their strength is even reduced, although the strength returns once
they dry out. If a wet rope freezes, its performance characteristics are reduced, and
especially its dynamic performance.
UV RADIATION
If a rope is used and stored properly, the effects of aging (degrading of polymers)
will almost never appear, so the rope will wear out from climbing use before its
material is aged by the effects of solar radiation. On the other hand, rappelling
slings and fixed ropes left on alpine trails are another matter altogether. In those
cases, one should consider whether to use such materials at all. Tests have shown
ropes to be resistant to large static loads, but in this case, caution is appropriate.
Although our products have been stabilized against UV radiation, polyamides will
gradually age, reducing the sturdiness of the ropes material. The recommended
service life of a rope is always stated in its instruction manual.
TWISTING OF ROPE
Twisting causes spiral deformation of the rope. This can be caused by twisting when
lowering across an edge below a certain angle or through diagonally mounted
carabiners.
Rope that has been severely twisted is difficult to use for belaying, and during
rappelling there is a danger that twisting ropes will get tangled with each other.
This problems tends to get worse with older rope, but in most cases it is caused by
improper handling when coiling and uncoiling rope, during its use in the field and
during storage.
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SERVICE LIFE
When is it time to get new ropes, and what should you know about the service life
of rope and about dynamic effects on its useful life?
It is very difficult to define the exact service life of a rope. It is very helpful for
climbers to keep a rope diary, recording the number of meters ascended and
rappelled down and, of course, any falls and their distances.
WARNING! In general, any rope should be replaced immediately after a major fall
where the fall factor value is higher than 1. Ropes should also be replaced at a
minimum at the moment when you subjectively no longer feel confident with them.
You should always dispose of a rope, regardless of how long it has been
used, if:
it has come into contact with chemicals, and especially acids,
the sheath is damaged so that the core is visible,
the sheath is extremely worn or excessively frayed,
sheath slippage is visible,
the rope looks very distorted (stiffness, indentations, hardened or weakened places),
the rope has been subjected to extreme loads (e.g. by hard falls),
the rope is extremely dirty and does not respond to normal washing,
the rope has been damaged by heat, abrasion or friction,
the recommended service life stated in the instruction manual has expired (even if
the rope has never been used).
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Our other climbing ropes contain a marker tape inside the core which identifies:
Rope manufacturer: LANEX Rope type: Tendon Dynamic Rope made in compliance
with Standard: EN 892 Number of authorized test laboratory: CE 0408 Certified
by: UIAA Year of manufacture of the rope: stated in numerals
This information is repeated approx every 20 cm.
WARNING! If the situation does not allow you to let the rope recover (the climb cannot
be immediately ended), you should switch the leading end of the rope. To achieve
increased safety, retie the knot connecting it to the harness more loosely, because
tightening of the knot during a fall reduces the dynamic force in the rope by ca. 1.5 kN.
This procedure is mainly appropriate for sports climbing, where frequent falls at short
intervals may be expected. We recommend that immediately after a fall, you release the
rope rather than keeping it under tension (i.e. do ot keep hanging from it).
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To uncoil a rope, proceed as follows:
Unfasten the rope, and insert both hands from opposite sides into the loops of rope.
While maintaining constant tension on the rope, roll it away from yourself so that
coils of rope fall onto the floor. Be careful that the other end of the rope does not
get caught on your wrist, preventing further uncoiling. After uncoiling the rope, pull
it through your hands two or three times one meter at a time while shaking it gently
to release any twisting. In this way, the rope is ready to be transported or stored in
the rope bag. Uncoil the rope over a ground cover (like the rope bag) or at home to
keep the rope from getting unnecessarily dirty.
In the past, when climbing ropes were not yet of todays quality and when they were
not yet used in such lengths as is the case today, it was recommended to stretch
out the rope to its full length from both ends and then to drop it to the ground. That
procedure rids the rope of any remaining shape retention. Today this practice has
been abandoned, both because of the length of the ropes and the risk of getting
them dirty. The fact remains, however, that this procedure was good for the rope.
Packing rope around your neck 1st position
COILING AND PACKING ROPE
Equally important is the procedure for coiling the rope after use. Proper rope coiling
is the first step towards proper storage, transport and subsequent use.
Packing rope around your neck
When packing rope, stretch an arms length of the rope in front of you, throw the
rope over your head behind your neck, and starting with your hand to complete the
step. Do not forget to hold it with the hand that is the farthest from the loose end
of the rope this means that the hands alternate.
Packing rope around your neck 2nd position Packing rope in your hands
By this method you can pack ropes one or two strands at a time. For two strand
packing, start at the middle of the rope (if it is not marked, you must find it). When
packing it, you again stretch out your hand, pulling out the length of the coil, the
right hand passes the grasped rope to the left hand, which holds it until it is again
stretched out and pulled to the length of a coil.
Final phase winding the coils of rope
Wind the last ca. 5 m of rope around the coils. This winding is easier if you run the
rope onto the forearm of the left hand and by its motion (as if you are winding your
hand around the coils of rope they will turn and start to go around your hand) you
Packing a rope by hand
gently wind up the end.
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Pull the last meter through the middle of the rope with your left hand (red arrow)
and run the end of the rope under the resulting bow (blue arrow), and then tie it in
a knot so it does not come out of the bow.
Packing rope in a bag
This is a very easing packing procedure. Always tie a knot in the end of the rope! Put
it at the bottom of the bag, and begin winding the rope into small coils that you put
Completion of packing of ropes gradually upwards from the bottom of the bag. Occasionally shake the bag on the
ground so that the rope settles into it.
Tie an anchoring knot in the last meter of rope, and lay it in the bag so that it is easy
to find by feel. If you have the length of the rope marked with a label only at one
end, that end should be at the top of the bag, so the rope will be easy to identify.
Packing long ropes
Ropes that are 100 meters long and longer are hard to pack. There is a trick to
it. Just sit down and wrap the rope around your legs (soles of your feet and your
knees). Its very easy. Wrap the last five or six meters of rope around the coils of
Packing rope in a bag for rappelling rope, making a hank to prevent the coils from coming loose.
ROPE BAG TO PROTECT AND TRANSPORT YOUR ROPE
For sports climbing, a rope bag is the best and easiest way to carry rope and to keep
it clean. This way, the rope is always safely and securely stored during transport.
During climbing the rope lies on the spread-out package and is again isolated from
contamination from the ground.
WARNING! The rope bag thus makes a considerable contribution to protecting the
rope and lengthening its service life. It is particularly appropriate for sports climbing
Wrapping long ropes around your legs on single pitch climbs.
HOLDING ROPE AT THE BELAY STATION
During multi-pitch climbs, you must be sure that at the advance belay anchor the
rope is kept in the most organized an systematic way possible. On alpine trails, when
climbing on ice or mixed terrain, it is important that bundles of rope do not drag far
down the cliff, where they might become stuck on an uneven surface, which could
lead to rope damage when pulling the rope free.
Experienced climbers hold ropes at the belay station in coils alternating to the left
and right across their belaying rope, thigh or foot, so they always have the rope
under control. If the same leader continues to climb the next pitch, the rope must
first be completely rearranged so that it can be pulled up again smoothly.
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ROUTING ROPES PROPERLY
During long routes over rugged terrain, one should pay careful attention not only to
the placement of belay anchors, but also to the route the rope passes over. If at all
possible, avoid cracks, sharp edges, wet areas and loose rocks in your path.
On mountain routes where there is a high risk of falling rocks and in broken terrain,
it is possible to use half rope techniques and to place the anchoring of individual
strands so as to reduce the risk of rope damage and any increased friction to
a minimum.
In caves or during rescue work when starting from the top, try to run the rope so
that it is not damaged by sharp protrusions in the terrain. At the same time, carefully
remove loose stones that could harm the rope if they came loose and drop.
WARNING! For teams of three climbers, single or half rope may be used, but never
twin rope.
RAPPELLING
For rappelling, the previous instructions about proper rope coiling are more important
than ever. Improperly or carelessly coiled rope may knot up during rappelling (when
the rope is thrown) or otherwise complicate the descent. Straightening out the rope
or getting it unstuck from rocks can cause loose rocks to drop. Very often during
strong winds, a thrown rope will fly to the side and get stuck. In such a situation,
or if the descent route is not suitable, it may be more appropriate to lower your
partner down. When rappelling in caves or during rescue work, we recommend
having the rope packed in a bag in a spiral. The person rappelling then has the bag
hanging beneath him, and gradually takes rope out of the bag during the descent.
This prevents tangling of the rope as well as protecting it from damage by falling
rocks.
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PULLING ROPE FREE FROM A RING AFTER RAPPELLING
If a rope runs through a rappelling ring, after rappelling always pull the rope from
the side towards the rock, or else the rope may be pinched between the rock and the
ring by the weight of the rope being pulled.
REGULAR INSPECTION OF ROPES
Ropes are the most important tools used by climbers, and they therefore deserve
to be regularly and thoroughly inspected. You should inspect your ropes at regular
intervals, depending on the intensity of climbing, after any serious fall, and after
each use with crampons, ice axes or other sharp objects.
WARNING! Check rope visually and by touch. Slide the rope through a clenched
fist and feel for irregularities on its surface. If you find an irregularity, inspect the
sheath and core visually for any damage. If you feel a bulge, lump, very soft spot or
other inconsistency, we recommend replacing the rope.
WARNING! Ropes intended for work at heights (or for rescue work) must be
inspected every 12 months by the manufacturer or by a person authorized by the
manufacturer. Written records must be kept of the inspections.
CLEANING
Dirty ropes have reduced performance characteristics and are harder to handle. If
your ropes get dirty, you can wash them by hand in warm water up to 30C or in a
washing machine on the setting for wool. Do not run ropes through the spin cycle, as
this may damage them. Occasional washing maintains good handling characteristics
and prolongs the life of the rope. Soap or soap flakes are best for washing rope. Dry
your ropes spread out in a ventilated area at room temperature, away from direct
sunlight and radiating heat sources. Drying out rope is very important, and may take
over a week.
disinfecting
For disinfecting ropes, only use disinfectants that are recommended by the
manufacturer.
STORING
Store ropes in a dry, dark place, away from the effects of chemical vapors, suspended
on a special sling or loop, but never by one strand of a hank! We also do not
recommend storing ropes in a garage, workshop or work areas where they may be
damaged by vapors from car batteries, paint and other stored chemicals.
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Knots recommended for anchoring ropes
If you tie a knot in a rope, you reduce its capacity. The strands of rope in a knot
are stressed unevenly, not only by pulling, but also by bending and pressure within
the knot. Under extreme forces, a rope will always break at the knot. The following
knots are recommended for use with mountain climbing and static ropes.
A variant is used when tying the knot around a large object (trees, stalagmites,
beams etc.). First tie a simple figure eight knot in a single rope. Wrap the short
strand leading from the knot around the object, then gradually run the rope exactly
along the strands of the simple figure eight knot. At the beginning, inside and at the
end of the knot, the strands must run in parallel.
Before pulling the rope tight, always straighten out the strands so that they do not
get crossed in the knot. With respect to strength, the version of the knot where the
supporting strand is in the upper position relative to the eye (that strand is shown
in a darker color) is stronger.
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tying. This version of a hitch is ideal for anchoring in the shape of a Y, when as
needed it is possible to have a changeable setting of the length of individual loops
without untying the knot. This, for example, allows rappelling down the middle of
a well without touching the sides. The maximum angle of the strands of the knot
(taking into account the distribution of force) is 120.
The method of tying is clear in the illustration below. Before tightening the knot,
it is necessary to straighten out the strands in the knot so that they are aligned
according to the upper version (the darker strand). Put the loop that you turn over
after running it through the knot in the middle of the knot.
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FIGURE EIGHT WATER KNOT
This knot is only good for joining ropes with the same diameters. Compared to the
double fishermans knot, it more greatly reduces the capacity of the rope, but on the
other hand, it is easier to untie.
When tying it, be careful, as has already been said, that the strands of the rope
bearing the load are in the knot in the upper version (see the figure eight hitch).
When tying the knot, first make a simple figure eight knot on one rope. With the
end of the other rope, you follow the loops of that knot in the opposite direction, so
after completion of the knot, you have the ends of the ropes on opposite sides. To
make the illustration clearer, the dotted line does not follow the whole path taken
by the second strand of rope.
CLOVE HITCH
This ancient sailors knot can be tied in many ways. For climbers, it is mainly
important to master tying a clove hitch in a carabiner at a belay station. It can
therefore be used for self-belaying at a belay station (it lets you freely change the
length of rope between the belayer and the belay point) or, for example, when you
need to change the length of the rope intended for deviation of the rope route.
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When tying this variant, remember that you grasp the more distant strand of rope
in the carabiner between the nearer strand and the cliff (on the opposite side from
the catch on the carabiner), then you make a loop on that strand which you turn
according to the picture, and then you put it onto the carabiner. If you turn the loop
the wrong way, you get a different knot (larks head).
HALF HITCH
The half hitch is used mainly for securing of the lead climber. It allows the free
changing of the length of the rope between the belayer and the climber. The half
hitch can be clipped in a carabiner according to whether you are taking on or letting
off rope. During a fall, the rope often slips before the fall comes to a stop, and this
reduces the impact force.
Tying a half hitch is easy:
a) gradually insert a coil with a bow into the open,
b) close the finished half hitch into the carabiner.
Notice that you grab the strand of rope with your hand after the carabiner (at the
more distant end). When using this knot, do not forget to tighten the safety on
the carabiner. By pulling in the direction of the arrow, you turn the knot over in the
carabiner, thus changing the direction of the drawing of the rope.
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WARNING! Apart from dynamic belaying, the half hitch is also used for emergency
rappelling, but only in a real emergency, because a descent by this method destroys
the rope.
For practical use of the half hitch during belaying, it is necessary to know the
blocking positions shown in the illustrations below on the left the gentle method
and on the right the firm method using the so-called cows ear.
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by a rescue worker. If a fall occurs because of any undesirable effect, a standard
half hitch may slip under such a great load (more than 2.5 kN). A double half hitch
is able to generate greater braking force, and is much better for belaying in such
situations.
Following the illustration below, it is relatively easy to tie. A good rule to remember
is that before you first take the strand closest to you and make a loop in the
carabiner. Then you grab the strand farther away in the carabiner from the side of
the cliff (2nd picture from the left) and make a bow with that strand in the carabiner
(like with a half hitch).
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A few words in conclusion
We can have various kinds of relationships with braided rope. We can view it as
something that we have bought, so that our ownership allows us to treat it however
we wish. The opposite opinion is that braided rope is a friend that we must treat
kindly. That way our mutual relationship is firm enough to withstand all of the
toughest situations. We, the manufacturers, take this second approach, because at
a deeper level one may compare a rope to the thread of life. If a rope breaks, the
life of the user usually also comes to an end.
We believe that you will create the right relationship with your rope, enriching your
life with lots of beautiful experiences in the mountains, on cliffs and training walls
and in caves. But you can also be more comfortable at work with a feeling of safety
and security when working at heights or over a vertical drop.
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Lanex a.s., Hlunsk 1/96, 747 23 Bolatice, Czech Republic
tel.: +420 553 751 111, fax: +420 553 654 130, e-mail: [email protected]
www.mytendon.com