Usage of sublimation printing

in apparel and textiles

T he desire to create garments and other artefacts
that reflect the beauty of the world around us and
provide for the expression of our artistic nature has
been evident from early in human history. The
decoration of the body presumably predates the
production of clothing. Textile printing is the most
versatile and important of the methods used for
introducing colour and design to textile fabrics.
Considered analytically, it is a process of bringing
together a design idea, one or more colorants, and a
textile substrate (usually a fabric), using a technique
for applying the colorants with some precision.
VASANT R KOTHARI Several techniques have been used and the colorants
has done Master’s in available have multiplied, the latest and the most
popular is sublimation print.
Textiles Technology from The dye particles that are used
We have learnt in Chemistry that an element or for this type of dye sublimation
DKTE’s Textile and compound normally has three states viz. solid, liquid are designed to only bond with
Engineering Institute, and gaseous state and conversion from one state to polymers, so the higher the
another can happen by applying heat polyester content in the material
Ichalkaranji (Shivaji (solid>>liquid>>gaseous) or by removing heat the more dye that will bond giving
University, Kolhapur), (gaseous>>liquid>>solid). However, there are a brighter image.
certain elements where only two states exist viz.
Maharashtra. He has also solid and gaseous. Thus in these elements, when Sublimation dyes are permanent
done Diploma in Export heat is applied, an element gets transformed into as they have become part of the
gaseous form without intermediary liquid form fabric, and thus give the
Management (Apparel excellent fastness properties.
(solid>>gaseous). This process of transformation
Export) from the Indian is called "sublimation.” Dye sublimation printing uses The only way that colour is going
to come out is possibly if fabric
Institute of Export above property to transfer any image/artwork from
is kept in the sun for the next
one surface to another. Popular uses are to transfer
Management, and images on T-shirts. A dye which sublimates under two or three years but then the
Garment Export and pressure and heat is mixed with the inks. material will probably sun rot
before the dyes go away.
Merchandising
Dye: To impregnate colour into a material. The ribbon
Management from NIFT, Many times this colour change is permanent.
Bangalore. Presently, he’s Sublimation: A change directly from the solid Types of sublimation print
working as an Assistant to the gaseous state without becoming liquid. Sublimation print can be classified as two types, viz
transfer print and direct print.
Professor in Department Polymer: Consisting of large molecules made
up of a linked series of repeated simple
of Fashion Technology, molecules. Sublimation print
NIFT, Bangalore.
Dye sublimation: Solid dye particles are
changed into gas using heat and pressure, then
bond with any polymers present, and change
Transfer print Direct print
back into a solid.

Printing process Transfer print

In this printing technology, the print heads get heated The images are initially printed on coated transfer
up while passing through the film; this forces the paper as a reverse image of the final design, which is
solid dyes to get vaporised and diffused on the glossy then transferred onto polyester fabrics in a heat press
surface of the printing media, which in turn creates a operation. Under high temperature and pressure, the
gentle gradation for each pixel at their edges. dye turns into a gas and permeates the fabric and
then solidifies into its fibres. The fabric is permanently
The ribbon consists of three coloured panels (cyan,
dyed so it can be washed without damaging the quality
magenta, and yellow) and one empty panel to hold
of image.
the lamination material that is used as over-coating.
The whole printing cycle is repeated for four times Direct print
where the first three cycles lay the colours onto the The images are directly printed on treated polyester
media to form a complete image, while the last one fabrics, which are then heated by heat-fixation devise
to give a laminated top. This is to prevent dye from that fixes the colour on the fabrics. This method
re-sublimating when exposed to warm conditions. eliminates the need for transfer papers. This means

68 APPAREL VIEWS / AUGUST 2010

 sublimation process produces permanent images that
will not crack or fade. Also, sublimation infuses the
image into the thread of the fabric so that it does not
affect the breathability of the garment. Most athletes
prefer sublimated jerseys versus screen printing
jerseys. Screen printing leaves a layer on top of the
garment, which affects breathability and the comfort
of the athlete.
Dye-sublimation is also cost efficient and very popular
for short-run customisation of fabrics. Special logos,
pictures and designs can easily be created or scanned
into the computer. Transfer paper can be generated
and custom prints finished in a matter of minutes as
opposed to screen printing, which requires lengthy
time for preparation of the stencil and assembly of
the mesh fabric.

Pros and cons of sublimation print

Pros
• Dye sub is great for full colour designs on white or
Transfer print Direct print light coloured garments
• It has no feel to the design
no paper cockling and reduction in defects such as and the gas reverts to a solid state. It has now become • Vibrant colours can be achieved
ghosting and various wave or tiger stripes that are a part of the polymer. Sublimation print cannot be • Full colour printing is possible
common in roll-to-roll transfer printing. This type washed out or come off, unless the actual fibres or
• The colours are still vibrant after many washes
needs an ink waste pit to collect excess ink and coating is damaged. This is why sublimation can't be
prevents it from staining the reverse side of the fabric. done on natural materials, like 100 per cent cotton. • There is no crack or fading of colours in this type of
Natural fibres and non-coated materials have no "pores" printing
Application of sublimation print to open and so the dye just sits on top of the fabric. • Dramatically reduced waste and maintenance costs
Sublimation print is widely used on polyester, satin and • Excellent coverage and extended ink yield
Further, sublimation print is done on white substrates.
some other synthetic fibres. The sublimation dye actually The reason for this is because the inks are actually • Trouble-free unattended printing and maximum
penetrates the fibres and becomes part of the fabric. transparent, when sublimated, and need a background uptime
And nothing is felt! The high temperature during the to show up. White is the ideal background because it Cons
printing also opens the pores of the polymer and allows does not clash with the colours. Indeed, the white • It can only be printed on white colour
the gas to enter. When the item is removed from the background actually enhances the colours. • Suitable for dry fit, silk, polyester fabric
heat press, the temperature drops, the pores close
• It cannot be printed on black or dark colour fabric
Comparison with screen printing • Metallic colours are not possible
Dye-sublimation print on polyester material does not
affect the hand of the material and is more desirable Conclusion
than screen printing for home furnishing and wallpaper With the new generation of wide-format digital
fabrics and the apparel industry. The colours are very printers and the expanding variety of speciality media
vibrant, do not wash out and the process is less messy designed for printing, the creative possibilities for
than screen printing, which requires messy solvents producing applications using dye sublimation are
and dyes. endless. Prior to these technological advancements,
Sublimation is also very popular with sportswear entering the dye sublimation market required a
manufacturers as many printed uniforms (cyclewear, considerable investment of time and money, but now
soccer, basketball and lacrosse) on the market today it is often favoured as a less expensive alternative to
are done via sublimation. Unlike screen printing, other printing methods
Front and back printed with sublimation print where the ink lays on top of the garment, the

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