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Bangladesh

ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
December 2019
Driving business with knowledge
www.textiletoday.com.bd

Volume 12 | Issue 12 | 120 Pages | BDT 200, USD 10

December 2019
See advertisement at page 29 See advertisement at page 33 See advertisement at page 25

Bangladesh RMG sector:

Unveiling industry best practices


Cultivating competitive advantage
through a holistic sustainability approach

Knitting & Knitwear


December 2019
Unveiling industry best practices
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Apparel accessories & fashion


December 2019
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December 2019
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Editorial Panel
COMBINED ENZYMATIC
Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
SCOURING &
Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor
BIO-POLISHING
IN SAME BATH
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

e t
Consulting Editor
r k
Ma ader
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor
Le
Jamal Abdun Naser
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)

Managing Editor
Akhi Akter “BOOST UP YOUR”
Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
KNIT DYEING
PRODUCTION & SAVINGS
Technical Team

Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Rakibul Islam

Editor & Publisher

Cost Water
A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 30th December 2019 by


Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd.
House-41, Road-5, Block-B,
Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217
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The views expressed in the


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of the publisher or the editor. We
have taken every effort to ensure
accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today
does not accept any liability for
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the right to edit and publish any Environment Time
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© All rights reserved to Amin &
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Volume 12, Issue 12 (December 2019)
Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Bangladesh

ISSN 1999-2076
Bangladesh
Reg. 8/2012
December 2019
Driving business with knowledge
www.textiletoday.com.bd
Bangladesh Textile Today

On the Cover
Volume 12 | Issue 12 | 120 Pages | BDT 200, USD 10

See advertisement at page 29 See advertisement at page 33 See advertisement at page 25 Driving business with knowledge
Bangladesh RMG sector:
Cultivating competitive advantage
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December’ 19 | Volume 12 | Issue 12

12-15 Editorial 32-34 Export Trend


Factory Tales
3 ways to tackle challenges of
Bangladesh RMG sector

45-48 Operational
16-24 Cover Story Excellence
How to generate higher
revenue by operational
excellence in the RMG
RMG export declines by 7.74% in
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Bangladesh RMG sector:
Cultivating competitive
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8 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Content December’ 19 | Volume 12 | Issue 12

Knitting Today Apparel Today Printing Today

63-64 Cotton Today 81-82 Industry 4.0 99-100 Printing Trend


Selection of cotton growth for
a specific type of yarn (Part III)

66-68 Industry Best


Practices
How will industry 4.0
change textiles?
T-shirt printing business
trend: the ultimate Ginny!
84-85 Winter
Fashion
Trends 100
Taipei Bangla, the pioneer
to produce specialized knit
fabric in BD

70-71 Cotton Sales


Warm clothes sales get
Trend
momentum with the down
of mercury
Novozymes launches
sustainable solutions for
86-89 Industry
the textile industry
Best
Practices
102-104 Industry
Best
Practices
Bangladesh should take
benefit of lower price of
cotton sale as old stock of
yarn finishes

72 Cotton Today
Khantex shows a wonderful
combination of knit and Innovation and up-graded
woven sewing line technology of GMS Printing
catching attention of global
90-91 Equipment brands
Today
105 3D Printing
VEIT is the name of epitome
Latest update on cotton and yarn of quality, efficiency and
service in BD RMG sector
73-74 Sustainable
Cotton 94 Exhibition
Sustainable organic
Today
cotton farming Redress Design Award 2019 3D-printing textile for
exhibit at Fashion for Good sustainable future
Experience

10 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Editorial

3 ways to tackle challenges


of Bangladesh RMG sector
Mohammad Nurul Alam

Bangladesh RMG sector is in a


deep crisis in the current year and
it is also not sure how the sector Tools to
will see a prosperous growth in survive for
the future as well. The sector is Bangladesh
experiencing a downturn apparel
RMG sector
export of 67.74% in July-November,
so Industrialists forecast that the
sector will see negative growth
in the coming months also. In this Product Product Efficiency
context, both the government Development Diversification Improvement
and RMG leaders should set the
survival strategy to implement a
series of reforms that will open


immense opportunities for the
$200-$300 range that makes
apparel industry.
generally agencies and freelancers
In an analytical view Textile Today across the globe.
found there are three major areas
Helal Mohammed Nuri, CEO of
that the Bangladesh RMG sector
To sustain in the Silver Line Group shared his views
can patch up as the survival tools.
Industrialists and experts opined market, manufacturers to Textile Today in this regard, he
said, “To sustain in the market,
the three tools can be the ultimate should develop new manufacturers should develop new
option for the industry to move on
designs/concepts with designs/concepts with their R&D
in the global competition.
their R&D team. And team. And this one-stop service
Product development is a lifeline for buyers, who are
this one-stop service desperately looking to reduce the
The forty years old Bangladesh
RMG industry is still young in
is a lifeline for buyers, price to stay in the retail business.”
product development and still who are desperately Design studio is the way to attract
could not gain enough maturity. looking to reduce the brands and retailers: A design
New concept generation, studio is a workplace for the
evaluation and commercialization
price to stay in the designers and artisans who are
of new products could be the retail business. engaged in conceiving, designing
biggest strength for the country and developing new products or
today if they are really focused on Helal Mohammed Nuri objects. In this regard, Bangladesh
them in the 80’s or early 90’s era.
CEO of Silver Line apparel manufacturers should
focus on the creation of an entirely
Industry insiders believe the RMG Group shared his new product or modification to an
sector should focus and invest in
product development to survive views to Textile Today existing product in a new concept.
in the unstable apparel market. in this regard Asif Ashraf, Managing Director
The below factors have to be of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.
considered by the Bangladesh (FTML) said, “A design studio will
apparel exporters why product due to various reasons. Instead of add value to your industry but
development is important and how going to the seasonal designers you have to know enough your
it could be designed to survive in they are now approaching the customers, their buying pattern,
the coming seasons. manufacturers – it reduces design their thinking, etc. then you can
cost immensely as in Europe or the approach to design studio rightly.”
Brands strategy to reduce their
US. A study found, to create a tech
design cost: Nowadays the buyers “Concepts mainly come from the
pack retailer has to pay around
are reducing their design costs value-added aspect and another

12 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


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Editorial

Cost of Creating a Clothing Tech Pack

600 Provider
$550
500 Hong Kong agency - General

Specialized US agency - General


400 $375
European freelancer - General
$300
300
$225 General US agency - General
$200
200
$150 NYC agency - Most Complex

100 $75 NYC agency- Medium Cpmplexity

0 NYC agency - Simple


Cost
Source : sewport.com

Figure 1: If Bangladeshi manufacturers are able to provide design and Tech Pack. Surely, they can attract brands. Because each season
hundreds of Tech Pack requires and they need to spend for them.

thing is that now many buyers thought other than product with the high-end product if you
and retailer brands are shutting diversification, automation, want to sustain in this business.”
down their own design studios digitization and previsions if
Should break the myth of cotton
to reduce the cost and they want we want to explore more in this
base product: Bangladesh is the
support from us in this regard. industry.”
hub of cotton products because
So, establishing a design studio
Product diversification 96% of its knitwear fabric is
should be the supreme task to stay
produced locally that completely
competitive,” he added further. Product diversification is the major
based on cotton.
area where Bangladesh stands
Foreign tours for concept
far behind from the competitors But development in producing
development: To obtain cultural
in the apparel market. This is the synthetic fabric, local
immersion, increased confidence,
due to the overall mindset and manufacturers are really not in the
and of course to widen mindset
lack of investment for product big quantity that RMG exporters
Bangladeshi industrialists and
diversification. The biggest can purchase. For specialized
designers should frequently travel
barrier in the diversification of the fabric Bangladesh still fully
the new markets. In this regard
product is to change the complete dependent on the outside source
buying the latest fashion trending
machine set up and expertise that requires long lead time.
products from abroad, where
development. Industry experts
innovation could be driven for the According to Fakir Kamruzzaman
suggest considering below issues -
next trend can help to understand Nahid, “Bangladesh mainly
the pulls of the people. Development of mindset for produces cotton products and that
product diversification: Many of is why we should do something
Mohammed Shahinul Haque,
the apparel manufacturers believe that is out of the mainstream, as
Executive Director, Badsha Group
doing the basic product can give it will make us more sustainable in
said, “Foreign tours can be a
better efficiency and this will the market.”
good way to get concepts and
maximize their profit. But global
new ideas. Apparel manufacturers Mohammed Shahinul Haque said,
retailers are moving towards
can visit some industries in “Our main challenge is product
versatile products.
other countries and learn more diversification. We are producing
knowledge practically. Training by According to Asif Ashraf, the same category of products
the manufacturer of the machinery Managing Director of Fakhruddin by almost every manufacturer.
company also can help to make Textile Mills Ltd. (FTML), For example, Bangladesh has
technically sound.” “Bangladesh is working slowly on 400 spinning mills and almost
product diversification concept every spinning mill is producing
Fakir Kamruzzaman Nahid
and we are clearly lagging behind the same cotton or cotton-blend
Managing Director, Fakir Fashion
in product positioning. The key yarn. There is no special yarn
Ltd said, “Industrialists and
success factor to adopt effective producer. 150+40D ACR (Air
designers should participate in
design studio and product covering yarn) yarn is used for
international textile fairs, seminars,
development is a mindset and super stretch denim fabric, which,
workshops, etc. Because there is
willingness to take the risk. is not available in Bangladesh.
no other option to give second
Because here you have to work Some entrepreneurs should start

14 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Editorial

working on it.” Contribution of new products to export growth (%)


No diversified product: Some of 100
the apparel manufacturers are 90%
80 80%
exporting goods in a loss just to 70%
survive in the market let alone 60 60%
the margin to keep. So other 50%
40
40%
suppliers also have to offer the
30%
same product price otherwise
20
they cannot grab order because 8%
the devaluation of RMG products 0
Malaysia Vietnam China Pakistan Srilanka Combodia India Bangladesh
have already done by the other
Bangladeshi apparel exporters. Figure 2: New product export growth of different countries. Source: The Daily Star (2018)


In this regard, product
step further towards sustainability
diversification can help to be
and for a longtime business target.
unique from the basic-product
manufacturer. Engr. Mahasinuzzaman Shishir,
Assistant General Manager of
Mohammed Shahinul Haque
said, “We have become our
We have become our Natural Denim (Wash & Wear

own competitor in the product own competitor in the Ltd) said Textile Today, “Laser
technology is capable to enhance
category. This is damaging to product category. This productivity, reduce water and
our business. Buyers are taking
this opportunity. They have many
is damaging to our energy consumption and diminish

options to choose from and then business. Buyers are damaging emissions and waste,
guaranteeing ZERO contamination,
they are playing with a price. taking this opportunity. which allows sustainable eco-
We are getting very low margin,
which is the main struggle for our
They have many options friendly denim production.”

business.” to choose from and then Improving efficiency in

Efficiency improvement they are playing with a communication: Effective


communication skills are
What efficiency Bangladesh could price. We are getting very fundamental to success in any
gain in the apparel sector is not low margin, which is the organization. Market efficiency
truly discovered. But experts
main struggle for our always depends on good
opined it could be between 40- communication skills.
50% which is really below the business.
Uzzal Dakua, Merchandising
other Bangladesh competitors.
For a country that passed more
Mohammed Shahinul Manager of Echotex Ltd

than four-decade in the industry, Haque expressed, “We all should break
the myth that we are not good at
the level of efficiency is not really
communication. Factory owners
satisfactory. To improve efficiency,
Develop cost-effective processes: should also focus on increasing
the industry insiders suggest some
With a process improvement their efficiency level, waste
area to take care -
approach, manufacturers can minimization and they should think
Need proper training: Training is eliminate wasteful spending and long-term in case of purchasing
the key tool to strengthen those make the organization more new technology. Besides investing
skills that the RMG sector needs effective from top to bottom. in technology, also owners should
to improve. Any development invest in human capital to sustain
Fakir Kamruzzaman Nahid said,
program will bring the employees in the business.”
“Every single day there are
to a higher level of efficiency so
significant changes in this industry, Technological development
they all can achieve similar skills
buyers continuously trying to reduce for efficiency: Applications of
and knowledge.
the cost and yearly it reduces by technology will improve and help
Shahinul Haque added, “There about 5% from the previous year. So, to grow in the businesses. Despite
is no alternative than training to to survive this industry, it is regularly having a top-notch production
convert our population into assets. needed for cost-effective process house that produces international
We need to arrange training to and machinery.” standard products, Bangladesh is
increase the efficiency of our local lagging behind than India or other
Reducing consumption: Reducing
people. Training can be provided rival countries only for the poor
resource consumption and waste
by foreign experts or combined marketing efficiency.
will allow RMG manufacturers to
with local experts.”

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 15


Cover Story

Bangladesh RMG sector:


Cultivating competitive
advantage through a holistic
sustainability approach
Md Hasib Uddin, Research Student, Putra Business School, University Putra Malaysia
Co-Author: Professor Dr. Azmawani Abd Rahman, Director, Corporate Strategy and Communication Office,
Ph.D. Aston Business School
Courtesy: Dr. Mohammad Razzak, Visiting Faculty, University of Malaya

Introduction in Britain. Subsequently, we goods from developed to


witnessed how the successful developing nations. As the
Historically, the textile industry development of this sector, developed nations started focusing
had always been the backbone enabled nations such as the USA, more on high-tech industries with
of economic growth among China, South Korea and even India the goal of producing high-value
most emerging and developed to gradually build their global products, due to the incremental
economies. Textiles have economic prominence. nature of market competitiveness,
traditionally been a key driver textile buyers in developed
of technological changes since However, as these nations economies were desperately
the inception of the industrial diversified and upgraded their seeking lower-cost destinations to
revolution. As a matter of fact, industrial and manufacturing source their goods. This is where
it was the British textile industry portfolios, the market started developing nations came in with
that drove the industrial revolution shifting production of textile their large pool of cheap labor and

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Cover Story

rapid scalability, which changed and are either saving their


the apparel industry irreversibly. Bangladesh has disposable income or spending
been at the forefront them on the latest communication
Bangladesh has been at the devices such as smartphones.
forefront of this shift and of this shift and
transformation, successfully
transformation, Secondly, the largest consumer
competing for nearly four decades. markets such as the USA are
The country is now regarded successfully bracing for the possibility of an
as a major player in the global
competing for nearly economic downturn in the wake
RMG supply chain. According of negative forecasts based on the
to the most recent WTO report, four decades. The negative yield curves in the bond
Bangladesh still remains the
country is now market in the EU and Japan that
second largest RMG exporter with are already witnessing alarming
a 6.5% market share in the global regarded as a major economic numbers. Apparel
marketplace. The RMG industry is
player in the global retailers in the U.S. are reluctant
now the most dominant economic to building up large inventories
driver in the country’s industrial RMG supply chain. in the wake of such economic
sector, making up almost 12.36
According to the most possibilities that may impact their
% of the nation’s total GDP, and retail markets in the same way as
employing as many as 4 million recent WTO report, the EU.
workers.
Bangladesh still The sluggish growth witnessed
Such monumental success was remains the second both in the U.S. and Western
achieved despite the absence of Europe simultaneously is simply
resources such as cotton and other largest RMG exporter unprecedented, and are impacting
basic raw materials and without with a 6.5% market consumer spending behavior and
having a significant backward thus triggering lower demand
linkage industry. The strength and share in the global forecasts by importers in these
competitiveness of the Bangladesh marketplace. The countries. Adding to the above
RMG sector is primarily attributed phenomenon, the US-China trade
to its’ ability to offer a large pool RMG industry is now war being strongly pursued by
of low-cost labor that were and the most dominant the two governments through
are still easily transformable into retaliatory measures has also
a skilled labor force. Furthermore, economic driver in the added fuel to the fire.
the country is endowed with an country’s industrial
abundance of water that also In the wake of the tariffs imposed
contributes to the country’s core sector, making up on Chinese exports to the U.S.
strengths. almost 12.36 % of the market, it was anticipated by
many that Bangladeshi apparel
Daunting challenges faced by the nation’s total GDP, and manufacturers would benefit from
RMG Sector
employing as many as this trade dispute by filling in the
vacuum created by tariffs imposed
Despite the admirable success 4 million workers. on Chinese exporters. However,
of Bangladesh RMG, shifts in the the reality is that Bangladesh RMG
global apparel industry as well is not prepared to fill in the above
numerous domestic factors are gap. In fact, the RMG industry is far
In the past, typically consumers
expected to bring some daunting away from reaching the expertise
in developed economies would
challenges to the nation’s RMG and capacity to be in a position to
frequently spend a good
sector in the foreseeable future. replace China as a manufacturing
amount of their surplus income
Firstly, in the markets such as hub, mainly due to the discrepancy
on replacing their existing
the European Union and North in the scale of operations and
wardrobe. For instance, T-shirts
America where Bangladesh’s RMG product diversity offered by
were considered wearable for a
is primarily being exported to, the apparel manufacturers from China.
few times at most before being
trends in consumer behavior have
replaced with new ones. However,
changed significantly in the past According to recent studies, as
due to changing consumer needs
8 years. Nowadays, consumers Bangladesh saw a decline in RMG
and focus on reducing carbon
are spending more on electronic exports, garment shipments from
footprints the younger generation
gadgets compared to replacing Vietnam increased by 10.54 %
are using their existing garments
their garments with new ones. between July and September.
for a longer time after re-washing
While the growth observed for

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Cover Story

India was 2.2 %, and 4.74 % for


Pakistan. Yearly
Many textile and apparel industry expenditure 50%
experts contend that the RMG figure of general Cloths
exports from Bangladesh has peoples 50%
declined primarily due to the lower
Gadget
consumption of RMG products all
over the world caused by global 50%
economic downturns. However, Others
the truth of the matter is that this
simplistic claim is portraying only 0 10 20 30 40 50
a part of the whole picture. In fact,
there are multiple reasons that
are driving the long-term supply sector as sourcing destinations. the presence of unhealthy price
chain strategies of buyers that are Such pressures are contributing competition among the local
leading to an overall decline in new to the already declining spread garment makers. This practice
orders for RMG from Bangladesh. between revenue and cost for is making it more and more
RMG producers in Bangladesh. difficult for new local investors
The three major reasons for According to a study conducted and entrepreneurs to enter the
the RMG exports declining are by ‘The Daily Star’, in the first market. An estimate by the Fair
identified by the author of this quarter of the current fiscal year, Wear Foundation (FWF) indicates
article are: garment exports from Bangladesh that as many as 39 % of the
have dropped by 1.64 % year-on- Bangladeshi garment exporters
(i) rising labor costs in parallel
year, and in fact, in the last quarter are presently accepting prices
with unhealthy price
export earnings dropped to $8.05 below their actual production
competition;
billion which is 11.52 % short of the costs for the sake of keeping
(ii) lack of sufficient product quarterly target of $9.10 billion. their business relations with
diversity among RMG international retailers and just to
Moreover, retailers are not cover their wages and financial
manufacturers; and
practicing fair and responsible obligations to lenders.
(iii) risks posed to Bangladesh purchasing. While the apparel
due to the impact of climate buyers have placed immense According to a Daily Star
change and hostile geophysical pressure on the RMG producers Business News in 2019, only 13 %
positioning. to upgrade their production of the buyers who source from
infrastructure to meet international Bangladesh have so far increased
Growing labor cost and unhealthy safety compliance standards, yet the prices of garment items even
price competition there has been no corresponding after the minimum wage hike in
support in terms of prices paid 2013. Based on a survey done
Due to incremental living by the buyers to offset the by Mridha (2019), the outcome
costs, demand, RMG workers additional financial burden borne of such practices is that just in
have started to demand more by the producers. In actual fact, the first three-quarters of 2019
monetary compensations. Politics, despite fulfilling all compliance fifty-nine garment factories have
unfortunate industrial accidents, benchmarks with flying colors been shut leading to job losses for
and incoherent labor laws have and consequently transforming 25,900 RMG workers.
escalated this issue even further. factories into role models for
As a result of pressure to raise safety, local manufacturers are Lack of diversity in the range of
minimum wages, the Bangladesh continuously being pressured product offerings
RMG is on the verge of completely to lower prices of their final
losing cheap labor as a source of The discourse presented in
products to price-levels that are
competitive advantage. the preceding paragraph
untenable. As a result of such
does not suggest that all onus
unfair practices, due to the highly
On the contrary, countries like of responsibilities lie with
competitive nature of the market,
Vietnam, Cambodia and others are international buyers, in fact, the
RMG manufacturers in Bangladesh
posing serious threats with their RMG producers in Bangladesh
are forced to do business at prices
cheaper labor costs and semi- have not been keeping themselves
that are unsustainable.
skilled workforce. Additionally, up to date with changing
Myanmar and some African According to Rubana Huq, consumer behaviors and demands
nations, such as Ethiopia are also President of BGMEA, buyers are from the market places where their
making strides in entering the RMG now trying to take advantage of products are being sold.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 19


Cover Story

According to Mahmud
Hasan Khan Babu, Three major
former Vice-President
of the BGMEA, reasons for
consumers had been
decreasing their Bangladesh RMG
purchase of apparel
for some time and
exports declining
spending more on
other types of durable
products. He also
states that Bangladeshi
manufacturers have
expanded their
capacity to produce
the type of apparel Rising labor costs in Lack of sufficient Risks posed due to
parallel with unhealthy RMG product impact of climate
they manufacture price competition change and hostile
diversity
currently without geophysical
any study on global positioning
consumption trends.
standards, most Bangladeshi once each decade, but this could
The WTO projects that the lack RMG manufacturing plants are as become a regular phenomenon up
of product diversification is a good as any in the world, which to 3 to 15 times each year by 2100.
significant reason apart from has become another source of
rising online business models and competitive advantage. A new research forecasts coastal
decline in apparel purchase from flooding will impact nearly 42
brick and mortar shops for the Despite such admirable progress million people in Bangladesh by
current declining trend in orders made by RMG producers, the 2050 and by that time more than
coming into Bangladesh for RMG. international garments buyers 25% of the land of Bangladesh
In a recent interview, Rubana Huq appear to be apprehensive and may be inundated by seawater. It is
suggests that Bangladesh needs to are actively seeking alternative worth mentioning that the country
diversify and upgrade its’ capacity sourcing destinations! The is yet to develop a deep-sea port.
to produce high-value apparel question is why?
rather than focusing on low-value The buyers’ association seems to
basic garments to become more The answer is the possibility of be apprehensive and pessimistic
competitive in the global fashion imminent ‘natural calamities’ about the government’s long-
market. The shift among producers driven by global warming as term plan to tackle the fallout of
towards high-end high-value well as geological forecasts with such calamities on the RMG supply
garments is overdue and is one of regards to possible earthquakes chain. Any contingency plans drawn
the main reasons for Bangladesh in and around Bangladesh. up by the government have not
not being able to cash-in on the The geophysical position of been communicated to the forum
opportunity created by the U.S.- Bangladesh makes the country of international apparel buyers.
China trade war. prone to a significant number of Therefore, if the government has
adverse geological conditions. already drawn up contingency
Adverse impact of climate change These conditions are potential measures, then such plans ought to
and potential seismic activities sources of major disruptions for be communicated to global buyers
the RMG industry and thus the that source from Bangladesh.
Bangladesh RMG has come a global apparel supply chain that
long since the infamous Rana relies on Bangladesh. In November 2015, the Honorable
Plaza and Tazreen Fashions Prime Minister of Bangladesh
incidents, indicating the resilience According to an article by BBC, by visited the Netherlands to observe
and perseverance of the local the end of the century, sea levels how the Dutch government
entrepreneurs and other key are expected to rise along the has prepared survival models
stakeholders that have supported Bangladesh coastline by up to 1.5 under the seawater. Since then
the industry. As a result, the meters that will come with more Bangladeshi experts have been
Bangladesh RMG industry is extreme seasonal fluctuations working on a survival model also,
now much stronger than ever in in sea levels. Global warming is but unfortunately, this has been
terms of capacity and compliance likely to inhibit powerful storms communicated at a global stage
with global standards. In terms and unusually high-tides that neither from our government nor
of infrastructure and safety are currently being observed from any industry representative.

20 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


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Cover Story

Another matter of grave concern, research undertaken by the author


are earthquakes. According to Hence, buyers is to address how a sustainable
experts, Bangladesh happens to
are becoming supply chain may be developed
be situated in one of the most through focusing on building a
seismically active zones of the progressively large pool of middle-managers
world. If any massive incident
skeptical about for the RMG industry with the
happens, our government does necessary set of knowledge and
not have the capacity to rebuild relying too much skills to plan contingency measures
the communication infrastructures
on Bangladesh for and mitigate the impact of any
overnight. Also, considering the shocks that are impacting or will
extremely high density of our production given the impact the industry in the future.
population, recovering from
probable geological The whole idea of working on the
massive natural disasters will
become more and more difficult hurdles. Therefore, concept of developing people
skills especially focusing on a
with time. Although the strongly
the international large pool of middle-managers is
built RMG manufacturing plants
will likely withstand the impact apparel buyers are derived from the basic premise
of the balanced scorecard
of earthquakes, the irreparable
re-designing their architecture developed by Harvard
damages to other components
of the supply chain such as long-term supply University Professors Norton and
Kaplan. The balanced scorecard
communication, supplies, etc. will
chain strategies architecture is comprised of
have a major impact on operations
of the RMG factories. by spreading the four (4) perspectives: financial
performance, customer
Hence, buyers are becoming potential risks by satisfaction, operational efficiency,
progressively skeptical about sourcing from other and developing people skills.
relying too much on Bangladesh
for production given the probable emerging RMG When effort is applied towards
geological hurdles. Therefore, the producing nations improving people skills of an
international apparel buyers are re- organization, it automatically
designing their long-term supply mentioned earlier in influences operational efficiency
chain strategies by spreading the this article. that in turn improves customer
potential risks by sourcing from satisfaction, which eventually results
other emerging RMG producing in better financial performance.
nations mentioned earlier in this Therefore, the goal of building a
article. Apparently, some buyers building a resilient supply chain sustainable RMG sector starts with
have directly advised their supply in the RMG sector. Hence, the improving the managerial skills of
chain partners in Bangladesh not goal of the study is not only to the people who matter the most
to expand further in Bangladesh. identify the hurdles in the way in the day-to-day functioning of
Although many buyers are still of the RMG sector but also to an RMG manufacturer; that is the
optimistic about Bangladesh, develop sustainable solutions to middle managers.
they are asking their vendors to overcome them. Most efforts in
bringing about a sustainable future During the search for comparative
upgrade to more high-end value-
for Bangladesh RMG has been information on sustainable supply
added products.
focusing primarily on measures chains in apparel manufacturing,
Way forward for Bangladesh RMG: such as energy savings, increasing it was discovered that Bangladesh
Building sustainable and resilient productivity and efficiency among has a 5-7% marginal difference
supply chains workers across the board and with China in terms of skillsets,
enhancing quality in products however, China’s superior
Being a doctoral research student and processes. However, the need productivity are results of their
and an active member of the to build a robust and resilient robust supply chain management.
RMG industry, the author of this supply chain for the long-term Similarly, Turkey has a well-
article is constantly searching sustainability of this sector has managed supply chain that
for effective solutions to the been understudied. has given the country a strong
challenges highlighted above. In foundation as a manufacturing
light of the daunting challenges The entire gamut of RMG supply nation. Both countries are
faced by the industry, the chain is just too broad a topic considered 15-17% higher in
author has decided to conduct for a single stream of research operational efficiency benchmarks
a comprehensive study that endeavor, hence the focus of the compared to Bangladesh.
could lead to measures towards Therefore, a well-developed and

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Cover Story

robust supply chain managed by a


world-class pool of managers can To develop people
absorb any shocks and result in
skills needs
higher productivity.
balanced scorecard
The author of this article has architecture for
embarked on a research endeavor
to link capacity building of the Bangladesh RMG
middle management of the sector
Bangladesh RMG sector as a
potential driver of building a
resilient and sustainable supply
chain network in Bangladesh.
For instance, an initiative such
as the ‘PEOPLE’ project may
make significant contributions
towards achieving the above
goal. Unfortunately, the middle Financial Customer
management in the RMG sector performance satisfaction
has been more or less overlooked,
which is ironic considering the
fact that they are the backbone of
the day-to-day operations of RMG
manufacturing. Hence, initiatives
such as the PEOPLE project may
actually become game-changers
for the industry. The objective of
the research undertaken by the Developing
Oparational
author is aimed at unraveling the
efficiency people skills
truth to this assumption.

Since the beginning of the


test, making owners of these The buyers are pushing
historical journey of Bangladesh’s
companies question the future Bangladeshi RMG companies
export-oriented RMG industry,
of their companies to which they to invest in facilities to produce
the sector has been successfully
have dedicated their lives and value-added apparel, while they
giving significant returns to both
resources. As mentioned earlier, are shifting orders for basic low-
local and international RMG
the existing international apparel tier products to countries such
stakeholders, in spite of the risks
buyers are constantly pressuring as Myanmar, Ethiopia, etc. that
and hurdles it had to overcome
manufacturers to produce are now considered as emerging
through the years. Almost every
value-added products, and yet low-cost manufacturers. These
company still in operation is
not making any compromises shifts in procurement strategies
generating earnings more or less,
on prices. In order to remain of the buyers are not only driven
striving to continuously improve
competitive and to meet customer by lower labor costs in those new
their operations and are getting
expectations, many factory owners destinations, but the strategy has
progressively competitive each day.
have started adopting value-added a lot to do with diversifying the
The main reason is the adaptive products even before properly risk portfolio of their supply chain
and resilient nature of the understating the true substance and network, considering some of the
people of Bangladesh. The meaning of value-added products. probable shocks such as impact of
RMG entrepreneurs learn very climate change that may disrupt
Adding fuel to the fire is that while their businesses in the future.
quickly and have increased their
most of the RMG companies are
operational efficiencies as and
engaged in the self-destructive Why are buyers so hell-bent
when required by the evolving
competition by taking orders on establishing such balance in
nature of the global RMG business.
below cost and at the same time the apparel supply chain? The
Despite the laudable pursuing high-value apparel answer is simple: they want to
achievements, the challenges production, international buyers minimize risk and hedge on future
identified such as unhealthy meanwhile are hunting for new impacts of climate change. These
price competition is putting the manufacturing locations for basic actions are part of their long-term
industry through a severe stress low-value apparel. strategies. Within Bangladesh,

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 23


Cover Story

focus area, considering its intrinsic


Redesigning ability to enhance productivity and
business Focus on value
added products in turn lowering costs. Investing
strategies to
build resilience through in appropriate technology can
diversification and
in the supply also play a key role: an efficient
chain innovation
automated model paired with
a sustainable supply chain can
significantly increase our ability
to utilize scale effectively, in order
Investing in Building to reduce costs and accelerate
appropriate efficient production to remain competitive.
technology workforce
At the same time, focus on
value-based products (i.e., high-
Figure 2: Revamping business models keeping sustainability as the principle priority. tier apparel products) through
diversification and innovation
they are asking factories to invest labor, MFA and GSP trade facilities, can be considered as a long-term
more for value-added products, skilled workforce, adaptability approach towards sustainability.
new technologies, automation, etc. and government support had Nevertheless, such initiatives take
collectively attributed to the time and the industry is not likely
This is technically migrating creation of this phenomenon. to reach that level and space
Bangladesh from a lower-tier However, the path is not as smooth of sophistication and creativity
segment to the middle- and higher- as it used to be. Diminishing overnight, as the RMG industry in
middle tier segments of the market. demand for mid-tier apparel Bangladesh has been built on cost
Many apparel buyers are also and mounting competition in efficiency/low price model.
encouraging large Bangladeshi RMG the industry is making it more
manufacturers to invest in countries and more difficult for businesses At present, we neither have the
such as Vietnam, Cambodia, to survive with rising costs and scale nor the linkages to be in a
Myanmar and Ethiopia. associated risks. space from where we can focus
heavily on innovation. Having said
Interestingly, many companies On top of that rising labor cost, that, the encouraging fact is that
from Bangladesh have already lack of variation in the product some manufacturers in Bangladesh
started investing heavily in offerings and adverse geophysical have slowly started to focus on
these new destinations. Blindly factors are driving the problem value as well. Experimentation in
following the lead of the buyers even further, putting the entire product design and development
by investing abroad in production Bangladesh RMG supply chain at has started. However, it will take
facilities without addressing the peril. Therefore, in order to remain years for the whole industry to
challenges locally by developing competitive in the global market, collectively reach that competence
remedial measures, such RMG manufacturers in Bangladesh level from which we can add value
companies are missing the big now more than ever have to in products through innovation.
picture. Instead of creating consider revamping their business
competition for Bangladeshi RMG models keeping sustainability as At present, we do not have a
companies, the proper step would the principal priority. Hence, the concrete and decisive response
be to collectively put an effort author believes that the solution to all the challenges ahead of us,
to develop the industry through lies in re-designing business but as a citizen and as an active
developing long-term strategies strategies with a pivotal focus on member of this industry, we
to build sustainable and resilient existing core strengths in order to have high hopes considering the
supply chains, instead of creating build resilience in the supply chain. resilient nature of our nation and
competition for your own industry of the RMG sector in particular.
in Bangladesh. Low cost has always been our Finally, it is hoped that a research
unique selling point and we have endeavor that is data-driven may
Concluding remarks to ensure that we do not lose culminate into a roadmap to
it, especially considering how navigate the quagmire that the
There is no specific variable that
price-sensitive the global apparel industry faces for maintaining and
stimulated the emergence and rise
market has become. As mentioned consequently further accelerating
of the RMG sector of Bangladesh;
earlier in this article, supply chain the on-going growth of our RMG
international openings, cheap
management should be a major sector.

24 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


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Cover Plus

Destructive
penalties of
air shipment
of apparels
Textile Today Analysis

Being the second-largest garment Also, finally the businessmen


exporter worldwide after China, especially the exporters and
Bangladesh has been serving importers have to face the challenges
the customers globally with its of all those inefficient issues.
competitive edge.
The businessmen of Bangladesh
The garment sector has uplifted loss competitiveness in global
the economy to a new height over business for higher costs of doing
the last four decades. business and the economy also
suffers a lot.
Although the sector grew a lot
and has been contributing to In such cases, the country’s image
the GDP still Bangladesh’s poor also suffers a lot as the foreigners
infrastructures have been playing are reluctant to do business here
as constraints to further growth of and to pour investment here.
the sector.
The businessmen bear the brunt of Dhaka to London is $3, which has
The poor infrastructures increase inefficient infrastructures. Most of to be paid by the exporter.
the cost of doing business and the garment factory owners have
However, if goods are sent over
Bangladesh has been struggling to export through the air in case of
the sea, the transport cost is
to improve in the ranking of the any disruption in the way of export
completely borne by the importer,
World Bank’s global ease of doing through the seaway.
meaning exporters have to pay
business index.
However, air shipment is very nothing in this regard.
This year Bangladesh improves expensive. If any exporter faces
A 20-feet container can hold
eight notches to reach 168 from any air shipment, he or she will not
10 tons of garment cargo and
190 countries. be able to make any profit. Rather,
between $1,200 and $1,500 needs
he or she will have to pay from his
Infrastructures cover a wide to be paid as fare to the shipping
own capital.
range stretching from improved companies by the buyer.
roads and highways, efficient port Most of the garment
However, if the same quantity of
management, airport facilities, manufacturers will have to send
garment goods is sent through
available cheap transportation and the goods by air to meet the
air shipments, exporters will have
quick movements of goods from deadline set by the international
to pay $30,000 to the air cargo
one place to another. retailers. The manufacturers
company, as airfares are not
cannot make any profit if he or she
All these things are still not improved included in the pricing.
has to go for air shipments.
to global standards and finally, the
It is very difficult to run the
trade and investment scenario are For instance, the airfare for
business smoothly with a profit of
also not improving a lot. sending one kg of garments from
just $7,000 from the shipment of

26 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Cover Plus

Challenges apparel Poor infrastructures increase the


manufacturers face in cost of doing business and Bangladesh

BanglaDesh Price of apparel is going down

Air shipment in Hazrat Shahjalal


International Airport is expensive
compared to airports of other countries

Cost of RMG production


has swelled every year


10 tons of garment cargo. Hatem also said.
So, finally, the exporters start The garment factories have
incurring losses and gradually also been facing troubles in the
becoming defaulters. movement of their covered vans
Mohammad Hatem, Senior Vice-
For instance, when inside the country for the strike,
President of Bangladesh Knitwear a small factory for which production at factories
are facing troubles.
Manufacturers and Exporters faces air shipment
Association (BKMEA) said that If the strike continues for long,
the impact of air shipments
the owner takes a production in most factories will
on factories is massive as the forced loan from be halted and finally the shipments
factories lose competitiveness. the bank to pay the as well.
“If any small factory faces any fare of the airlines. Some reasons for air shipments
air shipment the management of
the same factory even may face
Finally, he cannot Usually, nobody wants air

bankrupt as the banks stop back make any profit from shipment as it is expensive. Still,
air shipments take place at Hazrat
to back LC opening facility for the consignment of Shahjalal International Airport
failure in payment of the loan,”
Hatem said.
goods and he takes a (HSIA).

For instance, when a small factory


loan to pay the loan Every day some 800 tons of goods

faces air shipment the owner takes of back to back LC are air shipped and of the quantity,
500 tons are garment items.
a forced loan from the bank to and finally bankrupt.
pay the fare of the airlines. Finally, Similarly, almost the same quantity
he cannot make any profit from of goods is imported through the
the consignment of goods and air. Different airliners carry those
he takes a loan to pay the loan the rates on the eve of different goods.
of back to back LC and finally occasions when the demand for air Samples of garment items are
bankrupt. shipments goes up. exported and imported through
So, the small and medium factories For example, before Christmas, the the air, sometimes buyers
have to go through a very tough demand for air shipments goes up want air shipments for quick
time to stand back once they face abnormally. During this time the delivery of goods, disruption in
air shipment, he said. international retailers want quick communication through roads and
shipment of goods to the western highways forces the exporters for
The airlines do not reduce the
world. air shipments, space constraints at
fares from Bangladesh as the
the country’s premier Chittagong
demand is higher than the So, the apparel exporters use the
port also a force for air shipments.
suppliers, Hatem also said. airlines and taking this chance the
airliners increase the rates of fares, Moreover, if any manufacturers fail
The airliners, rather, increase

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 27


Cover Plus

How to avoid air shipment

Improving efficiency by The manufacturers must Govt. must provide efficient


apparel manufacturers to negotiate with buyers port management and
send goods at the earliest strongly about the delivery better roads and highways
time of goods


to cater to the work orders timely, productivity at the factory level,
he or she sends the goods through efficient port management and
the air. better roads and highways.
Ultimate consequences of air “Over the last two years some
shipments Over the last two airlines like Etihad, Oman,
While the cost of production years some airlines Flydubai, Bangkok Airlines and
some others have pulled out cargo
has been swelling every year for like Etihad, Oman, flights from Bangladesh. As a
different reasons, the air shipment
is just like putting the last nail on
Flydubai, Bangkok result, the capacity-constrained
the coffin. Airlines and some further although the demand for
air shipment increased a lot in
When the companies have been others have pulled Bangladesh,” said Kazi Wahidul
struggling to make even less than out cargo flights Alam, an aviation expert.
five percent or in some cases
without any profit, still the air
from Bangladesh. “So, the existing airliners increased
shipments take place. As a result, the the fares and Bangladesh turned

In such cases the factory capacity-constrained into a sellers’ market for them,”
Alam said.
management loses the competitive further although On the other hand, other airports
edge and finally the management
either terminates staff, owners
the demand for air like India turned into buyers’
become bankrupt even in some shipment increased markets as so many airlines run
cases closure of factories. a lot in Bangladesh their flights there. In India, the
airport users have a lot of choices,
Recently some 59 factories
were closed as they failed to
Kazi Wahidul Alam but in Bangladesh choices are
limited, he said.
compete. Air shipments were also (an aviation expert)
Moreover, the charges of handling
responsible for the closure of a
of goods at the airport in Dhaka
few.
are higher than other countries,
How can we avoid air shipments? soon as possible. That means the
Alam said adding so the fares also
manufacturers need to send the
In the world of fast fashion, it is go high here.
goods as soon as possible.
important to move the goods Furthermore, the number of
faster so that the importing In such cases, the manufacturers
dedicated cargo airliners from
companies can put the goods in must negotiate with buyers
Bangladesh is very few, he said.
the store timely. strongly about the delivery time
In other countries, the number of
of goods, the buyers can pay the
The importing companies are also dedicated cargo airliners is very
airfares, predictability about the
in fierce competition among their high. As a result, the exporters can
time of manufacturing, improving
peers. So, they need goods as use those at cheaper rates, he said.

28 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Export Diversification

Though not expected level


Bangladesh has seen modest

Next export
progress in geographic
diversification which helped
gradually reducing vulnerability to
cyclical shocks from the economic

diversification
crisis of OECD countries.
Now with these two frontiers,
the 3rd frontier of diversification-

frontier for
quality diversification which
commonly used as value addition
is becoming a key concern for
exporters remaining competitive in

Bangladesh the international market.


Changing consumer behavior,
increased awareness regarding
sustainability are driving the
companies across the world to go
Julfikar Islam, Assistant Secretary (R&D) for the next level of manufacturing
Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry featured by increased investment
in R&D and cost–efficiency to play
Since its independence, next growth drivers if adequate in this frontier.
Bangladesh's economy has been facilities are provided. Generally, two instruments that
experiencing largely concentrated contribute to raising value addition
High value-added readymade
export basket firstly by the Jute in product export are- increasing
garment and garment accessories,
sector and then by Readymade the use of local materials to export
software and lT enabled services,
Garment. It has always been a products and producing high-value
pharmaceutical products, leather
concern for the policy ecosystem products for selected markets.
and footwear, jute products and
to diversify the export base as
agro & agro-processed products Though the export of RMG sector
a diversified economy performs
etc. are some of the high priority increased by 7.66 percent per
better than concentrated one
sectors which are given a number annum in the last 5 fiscal years,
through overcoming export
of policy support to exploit their export declined by 7.74 percent in
instability and negative impact of
potentials. the first 5 months of current fiscal
terms of trade.
Secondly, the government years. Reduced price and less
The export basket can be order from buyers due to unsold
encouraged geographic
diversified through product stocks are causing the decline.
diversification through policy
diversification, geographic
incentives. In the global market, Bangladesh
diversification, bringing more
For example, cash incentives are has been branded as the source
value addition in existing products,
given to the export to the non- of low-cost basic products.
vertically expanding from primary
traditional market beyond Europe Though a number of companies
products to manufacturing,
and America which constitutes are exporting higher value-added
diversifying from goods to service
73% of total export. products diversifying in quality,
and producing more intermediate
goods as a backward linkage.
In Bangladesh, policy narratives
are rolling around two types of
diversification efforts, product
diversification and geographic
diversification which are also
given policy supports. Product
diversification has been one of the
major agenda of export policies
but couldn’t produce the expected
results.
In export policy 2018-21, 13 sectors
were chosen as high priority
Figure 1: High value-added readymade garment and garment accessories will be the
sectors which are believed to be future export frontier.

30 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Export Diversification

Promising exporting sectors of Bangladesh

High value-
added
Readymade Leather and Jute
garments and foorware products
accessories

Agro &agro-
Pharmaceutical Processed
Products Products
Software and
IT enabled
services

Figure 2: Promising exporting sectors of Bangladesh.

fashion, the fabric it hasn’t been In the agro-processing sector, which offer education or training
an industry level practice yet as value addition is very high as the on product design. Lack of market
it needs more investment and raw materials are locally sourced. knowledge is also causing them to
upskilling of the human resource. Despite having huge potentials, limit their diversification efforts.
Bangladesh can’t play well in the
According to Bangladesh Bank, For producing more value-added
international market due to the
in FY2018-19, value addition in the products, companies across the
lack of laboratory facilities for
RMG sector increased to 64.32 world are increasingly investing in
testing quality standards and food
percent from 60.94 percent in R&D. Governments are providing
processing skills.
FY2017-18. Backward linkage of incentives for companies through
the RMG industry is strengthened Exporters need to test and collect tax holiday in R&D expenditure.
due to the expansion of the textile certification from other countries
So, to remain competitive
industry but limited with the which causes more cost and time
in the international market
overdependence on imported affecting competitiveness.
Bangladesh has to play in the
cotton with little attention to other
In backward linkage of the agro- quality diversification frontier
raw materials like man-made fibers.
processing sector, for ensuring strengthening the backward
In the leather sector, Bangladesh quality raw materials, bringing linkage, increasing investment in
is going for more value-added farmers under quality network R&D, creating human resources
products slowly as featured by in these pesticides and chemical with new skills and establishing
decreasing the export of basic fertilizer prone agriculture is also institutions for testing quality
leather and increasing export of very challenging. standards.
leather footwear.
In Jute sector, though there is a In this context, for improving R&D
Bangladesh has a significant drive for diversification, traditional culture and providing newly skilled
opportunity for value addition raw jute and jute bags and sacks people required for the industry,
through increasing the use of constitute the major share of establishing research Universities
local raw materials utilizing its the jute export. Due to concerns can play a significant role as most
abundance. However, due to lack of for climate change, demand for of the universities of Bangladesh
compliance infrastructure like Central diversified eco-friendly products have been focusing on the
Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) made of natural fibers like jute and teaching only.
environmentally compliant processing Kenaf increased globally.
Research Universities form
of leather has been a concern.
Bangladesh's government has research clusters in specialized
Local exporting manufacturers taken the initiative of R&D to knowledge arenas, create
import leather for making manufacturing eco-friendly jute knowledge parks in collaboration
exportable footwear following poly bags which is waiting for with industry to create new
buyer’s pressure on responsible commercialization. product ideas for business.
sourcing. In addition, Bangladesh They also provide training for
Other diversified jute products
is falling behind the competitors developing workforce required by
are being manufactured and
in complying with new fashion relevant industries.
exported mostly through SMEs.
trends like athleisure featured by
The jute goods manufacturers and In addition, innovative financing
knitted footwear as it requires
exporters are facing constraints in solutions need to be provided to
new skills and continuous product
designing new products as there companies who will go for R&D
reengineering.
are no institutions or design centers investment.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 31


E x p o r t Tr e n d

RMG export declines by 7.74%


in July-November of FY20
It is the time for the industry to re-think the business model toward diversification from
basic to mid/high price segments, and diversification from cotton to non-cotton items,
especially for ladies and girls’ dresses to increase exports.
BTT Business Report

According to the Export Besides this, industry experts Many RMG factories are now going
Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, suggest taking initiative and to shut down due to scarcity
earnings from RMG exports implementation of innovation like of work order which means our
performance (Goods) for FY 2019- process development to reduce forecast and prediction was not
20 July-November fell by 7.74% to overall wastage in the production, correct. So, considering next year’s
$13.08 billion from $14.18 billion in upgrade efficiency, develop new market trend we have to venture
the same period of FY19. products and new market outreach. and take the necessary steps.”
Rubana Huq, President, BGMEA,
said, “This has been the fourth
consecutive month of declining
RMG export growth out of the first
five months of the current fiscal
year. Such continuous negative
growth for four months in a row
has last happened in FY2011-12
(March-June).”
“While the strategic growth
target for the RMG industry for
FY2019-20 is set at 11.91% by the
government, such consecutive
decline only testifies the fact
that –the competitiveness of the
industry is really endangered.”
Figure 1: RMG export declines by 7.74% in July-November of FY20. “We are not aligned at all with
Earning from woven garments fell Engr. Muhammad Mahiuddin, the global competitive scenario,
by 8.74% to $6.27 billion in July- Executive Vice President, Robintex particularly the exchange rate
November of FY20 from $6.88 Group said, “Bangladesh RMG movement of Taka against the
billion in the same period of last sector has already made huge competitor currencies remain
fiscal year. On the other hand, capacity but people developed inconsistent,” she added.
knitwear export fell by 6.79% to a trend to expend less in fashion. “The shutting down of factories
$6.80 billion from $7.30 billion.
Woven-knit export comparison between July-November of FY19 and FY20
Industrialists are thinking that the (In USD billion)
sector will see positive growth in the 8 $7.30 Bn
coming year as they have received 7 $6.88 Bn $6.80 Bn
$6.27 Bn
many positive responses from the 6

brand and retailers. The present 5


4
negative growth is a result of a
3
wage hike at the beginning of 2019. 2

On the other hand, the forecast of 1


0
work order receiving for 2019 was
Knit Woven
not accurate so factory owners
were not prepared for drastic  July-November of FY20  July-November of FY19

changes in the market situation.

32 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


E x p o r t Tr e n d

of DBL Group, one of the top


Growth ratio in the US market in the third quarter of 2019
garment exporters, said a silent
20
recession is going on globally. As
15.56% a result, people are adopting some
15 14.23%
austerity measures.
10 He said Bangladesh’s apparel
6.58% exporters receive lower prices
5 3.93% from international retailers and
1.70%
0
brands. Moreover, Bangladesh is
Cambodia Vietnam Pakistan India Bangladesh less competitive than Vietnam
Figure 2: Competitions get higher growth in the US market then Bangladesh.
because of the long lead time.
According to Md. Jahidul Islam,
over the recent months (especially Managing Director, Ismail Concern,
after the minimum wage hike in The latest data from “E-Commerce is growing in the
December last year) is taking its the official source of fashion industry so making won
toll on our exports and industry.” brand is the only alternative to
the USA and EU shows survive in this crisis situation. Even
The latest data from the official
source of the USA and EU shows
that Bangladesh we can use online platforms like

that Bangladesh is significantly is significantly Alibaba or Amazon.”

lagging behind our competitors lagging behind our Khandaker Ataul Gani (Khokon),
in terms of growth during the Director, Weimco said, “Bangladesh
third quarter of 2019, i.e. July-
competitors in terms should work on technical textile to
September 2019. During this of growth during the broaden its product range so that
period Bangladesh registered third quarter of 2019, opportunities never go untouched.”
1.70% growth in the USA whereas
Vietnam grew by 14.23%, India
i.e. July-September Other than apparel product the
export earnings from leather and
3.93%, Cambodia 15.56% and 2019. During this leather goods in July-November
Pakistan 6.58%. period Bangladesh of FY20 fell by 10.03% to $391.09
“The picture in Europe is not much registered 1.70% million from $434.7 million in the
different as Bangladesh has seen same period of last fiscal year.
only 0.90% during the mentioned
growth in the USA
Export earnings from leather-
quarter, where the growth of whereas Vietnam footwear decreased by 12.91%
Turkey was 2.98%, Vietnam 2.88% grew by 14.23%, India to $230.16 million from $264.28
and Sri Lanka 6.17%. Therefore, it’s
a high time for Bangladesh to take
3.93%, Cambodia million while other leather
products fetched $104.63 million
a few quick steps to recourse the 15.56% and Pakistan with 11.10% growth in the period.
growth curve.” 6.58%. Earnings from the home textile
A few recommendations on the export in July-November of FY20
quick fixes are the exchange rate diversification from basic to fell by 12.34% to $298.65 million
premium on the local retention of mid/high price segment, and from $340.7 million in the same
the RMG export and untangling diversification from cotton to non- period of FY19.
the complexities in cash incentives. cotton items, especially for ladies
The export of jute and jute goods
While Bangladesh has made such and girls’ dresses, she emphasized.
increased by 15.16% to $404.79
a huge stride in the safety and MA Jabbar, Managing Director million from $351.5 million.
sustainability of the industry, and we
are making outstanding steps in green Growth ratio in the EU market market in the third quarter of 2019
industrialization, such a shift in the 8
sourcing pattern of global brands is 7
6.17%
leaving a question to our sustainability 6
initiatives, she mentioned. 5
4
However, since Bangladesh is 2.98% 2.88%
3
operating mostly in the lower 2
tier of the retail market segment, 1 0.90%
it’s time for the industry to re- 0
think the business model toward Sri Lanka Turkey Vietnam Bangladesh

34 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Country Profile

Most of the local requirement met

Challenges and
by this industry and machines
are also domestically made or
assembled.

potentiality of
Pakistan’s opportunities to grow
GSP+ status: Pakistan received
the GSP+ status in 2014 and then

Pakistan’s textile
the country’s exports to the EU
have increased by 62%. According
to Pakistani media reports in
the early years of the status

and apparel
Pakistan’s exports to the EU raised
significantly but later it remains
stagnated at USD 6.12 billion for

industry
the last three years.
The reasons behind the stagnant
situation are due to insecure
political stability and the
relocation of trading houses and
buying house of major retailers
Textile Today Analysis and brands to other competing
countries.
The textile and Apparel sector a loss in percentage shares, the
Experts opined that Pakistan
of Pakistan is experiencing a balance of trade within the textile
can boost up its exports to the
longtime nightmare in the export group actually improved by 10
EU by 15 times and not just in
growth that never going to end. percent.
textiles rather to another sector
The catastrophe in the export
Growth has been seen in textile also. Since Pakistan became a
is not going to over quite soon
exports that are typically higher beneficiary in 2014 that enjoy GSP
rather overall synopsis is not also
on the value chain mentionable Plus concessions to 28 European
favorable for Pakistan.
knitwear, bedwear and ready-made countries, its exports to the EU
But the textile sector in Pakistan garments. These three together have averaged 32%, against 25%
has an overwhelming impact constitute more than 50 percent in the period prior to this status.
on their economy, contributing weight within the textile group and Actually GSP+ status is the most
60% to the country’s exports. So, a 38 % share in total exports. potential and greater opportunity
to obtain a prospective growth for Pakistan to beef its Textile and
Experts of the Pakistan textile
in the Textile and Apparel they Apparel sector.
sector think that the readymade
should have to fact-finding of the
garment industry has emerged EU to help Pakistan boost textile
challenges and opportunities of
as one of the siring sector for the exports: The European Union
the future business.
country though the rise is on a (EU) and the Pakistani textile
Present situation of textile and very small scale. The demand for industry recently joined hands to
apparel export readymade garments for the local work for the sustainable growth
and outside is very significant. of the country’s textile sector.
In 2018-2019, Pakistan’s largest
export industry was the textile
Top 9 Pakistani Export Items (2018-2019)
industry, with hosiery and (values in USD billion)
readymade garments contributing
Cotton Fabrics 1.36 Bn (9%)
544 billion PKR/3.47 billion USD to Rice 1.28 Bn (9%)
total trade. Textile exports during Chemicals and Phatmaceuticals 0.717 Bn (5%)
FY20 increased 2.3 percent year on Cotton Yarn 0.711 Bn (5%)
Towels 0.5 Bn (3%)
year against a growth of 3 percent
Leather Manufactures 0.30 Bn (2%)
in total exports during the period. Other Exports 4.73 Bn (33%)
Hosiery 1.85 Bn (13%)
The textile group accounted for
Readymade Garments 1.67 Bn (11%)
61 percent of total exports during Bedwear 1.46 (10%)
the first two months of FY20 as
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35
opposed to 62 percent during the
same period last year—not too Figure 1: Pakistan Economic Survey 2018-19 analyzed by Gallup Pakistan, in 2018-2019,
Pakistan’s largest export industry was the textile industry, with hosiery and readymade
major a difference. In fact, despite garments contributing 544 billion PKR/3.47 billion USD to total trade.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 35


Country Profile

60 the EU and the US market. As now


54%
50 world demand has been shifting to
54%
man-made fiber from cotton and
40
which Pakistan has been unable to
30
25% 27% exploit so they are standing behind
20 in the global trade.
10 7% 6% Power and energy crisis:
3% 2% Uninterrupted energy supply
0
Knitwear Bedwear Ready-made garments Cotton Yarn is most essential for the
July-Aug 18
manufacturing process and for
July-Aug 19
smooth industrial growth. But
Figure 2: Comparison of data July-August 18 and July-August 19 shows Pakistan does not due to poor energy management,
see prospective growth in the apparel sector. (Source PBS) Pakistan’s energy resources have
been used inefficiently for decades.
According to the EU ambassador- India, Central Asian countries.
designate to Pakistan Androulla This initiative had opened huge According to a survey by the
Kaminara, if the government and investment opportunities in World Bank, 66.7 % of the
the industry leaders can act with Pakistan and cooperation between businesses in Pakistan city
proper perception management, the two countries. The corridor is electricity shortages as a more
the country can double its exports helping to grow due to the grant significant obstacle to business
to the EU bloc. of extended access for Pakistani than corruption (11.7 %) and crime/
products to the Chinese market. terrorism (5.5 %).
“Pakistan needs to prepare itself to
meet the challenges of sustaining Prime Minister Imran Khan at Increasing raw material prices:
generalized system of preferences Investment Forum Saudi Arabia Along with the power crisis,
plus (GSP+) status so as to avail said, “CPEC is a great opportunity Pakistan’s industrial calamity
the opportunities of increasing for Pakistan. CPEC connects deepen because of Increasing
exports to the EU,” Kaminara us to China which is one of the yarn and raw material prices. The
told while meeting a delegation biggest markets. Because of main cause of increasing raw
of the All Pakistan Textile Mills CPEC we are developing Special material prices like cotton, the
Association (APTMA). Economic Zones (SEZs) which grower of cotton or farmers of raw
invite investment across the globe. material unable to get fair price
Egypt, Pakistan agree to promote
China is a huge market and the due to middle man obstacle and
trade: Pakistan’s commerce
CPEC route will connect China and for the inappropriate supply chain
ministry and the Egyptian
Pakistan located at the strategic management. The mismanagement
Commercial Service agreed to
position of the world.” and lace of policy from the
work together and a memorandum
government are also accountable
of understanding (MoU) recently Improving law and order
for the raw material prices.
to set up the JWG on trade situations in the country
focusing ‘Look Africa Policy Lack of R&D institutions: Experts
Once stands at number six in a list
Initiative’ of the ministry. of the sector think Pakistan has
of ‘world’s most dangerous cities’
lack of effective links between
Both sides agreed to enhance the financial capital and major city
research organizations and
trade in key sectors, including of the country is now considered
industry to develop a new
textiles and leather products, as a relatively peaceful and safe
product. The lack of research &
agricultural products, engineering city. So, Pakistan is included in the
development (R&D) in the cotton
industries (electrical apparatuses list of safe cities due to political
sector of Pakistan has resulted
and power appliances), stability and peaceful democratic
in a low quality of cotton in
construction and building governance. The role and sacrifices
comparison to the rest of Asia.
materials, fertilizers and chemicals, of Law Enforcing Agencies (LEAs)
medical and surgical instruments is maintaining proper law and Lack of new investments: Due to
and pharmaceuticals, according to order situation in the City. disruptive political circumstances
Pakistani media reports. in Pakistan nobody is interested
Pakistan’s challenges to grow
to invest there. Though foreign
The China–Pakistan Economic
Less expertise in man-made fiber: investment in Pakistan increases as
Corridor (CPEC): China Pakistan
Pakistan’s Textile and apparel the security situation improves but
Economic Corridor is a framework
industries are less focused on this is not sufficient to turn up its
of regional connectivity. CPEC
synthetic fiber and less innovative of overall textile and apparel industry
will not only benefit China and
these kinds of products. Their entire to see as prospective.
Pakistan but will have a positive
apparel supply chain still based on
impact on Iran, Afghanistan, According to a World Bank index
cotton and so this could not attract
ranking countries according to the

36 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


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Country Profile Te x t i l e C i r c u l a r i t y

ease of doing business, Pakistan unchanged, not timely modernize world market. Because most
moved up 11 places last year to the equipment and machinery. textile and apparel raw materials
number 136. The previous year, it used by their industry and export
There is not any new heavy
was ranked 147th among the 190 are imported.
investment in this sector for a long
nations surveyed.
time. So, Pakistan's textile has In conclusion, to optimize the
So, this is a positive sign that loosened its competitiveness as textile and apparel business in the
Pakistan could take it an opportunity compared to other countries like global platform Pakistan should
to secure future business. India, Bangladesh and China. meet more and more customer’s
needs. The government’s policy
Lack of modern equipment and Increasing cost of production:
is highly important to create a
machinery: As Pakistan does Due to the devaluation of rupee
comfortable atmosphere in the
not see adequate investment the cost of inputs in the industry
trade and business for foreign
flow in the country so its textile soring and make Pakistani
investment as well as to electrify
and apparel industry remain products uncompetitive in the
the local entrepreneur.

Exporting wiping rags from cutting


waste getting momentum
Rahbar Hossain

Due to the shifting of consumer Rahman, Proprietor of MMS Waste


behavior towards fast fashion, Trade Co. was saying that he
garments production and started this wiping rags exporting
consumption has been increased business back in 2008 in small
considerably and leading to a scale, now his company alone is
higher amount of waste. exporting about 75 tons wiping
rags of different size and color.
It is difficult to say the exact
figure but assumed that China “There are huge demand of wiping
has about 26 million tons of textile rags in the first world countries
wastage, where Japan has about 1 and sometimes we cannot meet
million ton, and the USA has about their demands. Though this
1.2 million tones. Being the 2nd business has huge potentiality for
largest garments exporter in the the country but we are not getting
world, Bangladesh also produces a proper support from the banks as
considerably large amount of waste. well as government,” saying Md.
Mizanur Rahman, Proprietor of
In 2013, the knit fabric cutting Figure: Md. Mizanur Rahman (middle), Proprietor
MMS Waste Trade Co.
wastage was 12,512 tons that of MMS Waste Trade Co. at his factory.
reached 16,356 tons in 2017. It is He was also mentioning some
expected that the amount of solid than burning or landfilling them. problems like they cannot collect
waste will be 43,000 tons in 2025. In this regard, there are more than the cutting wastage from the
100 medium to small companies factory directly, most of the time
The wastage not only comes from exporting ‘wiping rags’ to many first they get it as third party which
garments producing stage but also world countries. The companies making the business difficult day by
arrives from after use of a product. are also using the digital business day. Also the location is very much
So, this is now a global headache platforms like Alibaba for fetching crucial for this type of business.
but some of the countries use 3R the customers.
(Reduce, Reuse and Recycle) to Being the second largest apparel
manage this wastage. In fashion MMS Waste Trade Co. is such exporter country, Bangladesh
waste management system i.e. company located at Uttarkhan, produces huge cutting wastage
landfilling, incineration or other Dhaka exports wiping rags of knit and if this kind of business get
processes are costly and not fabric, denim fabric etc. mostly proper support, it is possible to
eco-friendly. Also, there are many to Japan, India, Pakistan, Turkey, generate more revenue from this
limitations for many countries. Canada and also to USA, Spain, sector and this is also directly
Thailand etc. environment friendly business
So, it is better to recycle and
While talking with Md. Mizanur where significant number of
reuse mainly the cutting wastage
people can earn their livelihood.

38 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12



Exclusive Interview

Bangladesh textile and


It is high
time to move
apparel industry, the
second-largest exporter
in the world, is passing

from basic to
a hard time. Why is the
industry facing such
struggle, what are the

value-added
ways to sustain in the
market, how automation
can help in reducing

products…
cost etc. are now talk of
the town.
Recently Syed Kamrul
Hassan, Managing
Director at CLT BD Pvt
Ltd shared his thoughts Syed Kamrul Hassan
on above, which will
assist the sector people
immensely.
CLT BD Pte Ltd. is a
member of Daffodils
group (DGB) from
Bangladesh. Daffodils
Group is a services
Oriented organization
that provides complete
and comprehensive
apparel sourcing
and supply chain
management service
for both apparel and
accessories.

Textile Today: Kindly share with us apparel manufacturers are still $1.05 price, whereas an Indian
the main areas where our textile hoping that these orders will come manufacturer placed a price of
and apparel industry is lagging back again in Bangladesh. But it is $0.88 cents.
behind than our competitors? not on the horizon scrutinizing the
So, how can our manufacturers
current scenario.
Syed Kamrul Hassan: One of the compete in this scenario without
main reasons is as a whole of our So, it is high time for the the help of the government and
textile and apparel manufacturing Bangladesh RMG industry to move other trade bodies? The govt.
industry is focusing on bulk from basic products and focus on should subsidize in the RMG
production of basic products. But our value-added diversified products. sector and only then our textile
neighboring competitors are moving and apparel sector can easily have
Textile Today: What is the reason
on to higher-end fashion products. a chance to compete with other
behind not producing higher-
For example, India and Vietnam are manufacturing countries.
end fashion products by our
much ahead in terms of producing
manufacturers? Textile Today: There is a general
value-added fashion products, which
perception in this crisis situation
is not common in Bangladesh. Syed Kamrul Hassan: The higher
that buying houses are not giving
production cost in our country is a
Currently, due to increased cost enough prices to the factories to
major reason behind this. Like knit
and duty, many orders have moved survive, whereas they are making
dying costs 25% lesser than us in
to countries where the production a higher profit. What do you think?
India. We had an order of 1 billion
cost is cheaper. A lot of Bangladeshi
pieces legging and we placed Syed Kamrul Hassan: CLT BD

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 39


Exclusive Interview

Pvt Ltd always keeps a win-win Compared to other countries a 100% design success rate with
situation for all the related parties. our RMG sector people and other buyers also. This is where –
In every order, I sit with both the workers are really skilled and market study –Bangladeshi apparel
factory and buyer to set the price. sincere about their job. This is manufacturers have to develop to
And I personally talk to factories our strength. Whereas in other make a difference.
to give them a fair price. countries workers leave the
When we reach a consumer
factory premises when the time is
Factories deliver the RMG products market, we must study all the
over but our management people
on time with quality, which is also a brands who are doing what,
and workers finish their job not
prime ingredient to keep your buyer trends, demand, etc. and then we
considering time. However, our
from moving to another country. need to start doing marketing to
RMG manufacturers need to invest
And this solid relation has given us really catch the attention of the
in human capital transformation
increased orders. buyers by showing our homework.
along with automation. Apparel
And yes, we also do less priced manufacturers invested immensely in This also means RMG
apparel products as the global infrastructure and machinery rather manufacturers need to develop
apparel consumption market than in workers' efficiency. their designers, so, the designers
is shrinking. Brands are closing can produce world-class designs.


their shops and moving online to
Textile Today: To reduce cost and
mitigate the loses. Nowadays it
produce value-added products
is easier to do business for small
many manufacturers are adapting
brands due to online platforms.
to automation. How do see this
Textile Today: In 2019 most of the From the beginning, our initiative?
Bangladeshi textile and apparel
manufacturers single- Syed Kamrul Hassan: A lot of
factory counted loss. But CLT BD Pvt
Ltd witnessed healthy growth, kindly handedly brought this our apparel factories went for
automation to reduce the price
share with us the strategies you took RMG manufacturing without prior comprehensive
beforehand to avoid the scenario.
industry to the second- study on the machinery. In one
Syed Kamrul Hassan: I am really
highest apparel instance, a renowned factory
proud to say that at CLT BD Pvt bought one of the most modernize
Ltd, we always ask our buyers exporting nation in the printing machines. But due to its fast
to place an order for any kind of world, and they have to production rate, it cannot print darker
product. We said them to give us
take the role again to shades, meaning the investment has
chance to showcase our potential. become a burden now.
Like we have been making shoes lift this industry from
Bangladeshi RMG manufacturers
for the last five years and strove the current challenges. have to be critically aware of such
really hard and convinced buyers
things to not make things more
that we can do it. Beforehand my
complex. The same goes for the
buyers use to place these orders
unplanned expansion of capacities.
in China. The workers who are in the sewing
section for five years, we can easily Textile Today: How do you
The same goes for our leather
bring her in the quality section, which see the textile education
jacket manufacturing, which we
will also increase efficiency greatly. providing several universities in
produce in small quantities but
Bangladesh?
sells in Europe in 300 to 400 Nowadays a lot of the RMG
euros. And our buyers pay me after factories are coming up with Syed Kamrul Hassan: It is very
sell. At CLT BD Pvt Ltd we have given design studios. Which is a great disappointing that our freshers
the privilege to the buyers to pay mileage to both the buyer and are not equipped with the textile
after sell. Due to our value-added factory. As factories are doing and apparel industry trends. Our
unique products sell percentage is design free of cost, and buyers universities have a huge lacking
really high in every shipment. need a lot of money to maintain of modern textile technologies.
designers. There has to be some The universities are far behind in
Textile Today: How can our Manufacturers
distinction so that the buyer chooses providing practical textile education.
overcome their challenges?
us instead of somebody else. I think the Textile Talent Hunt
Syed Kamrul Hassan: We have
For example, for the last year, (TTH) initiative of Textile Today is
the greatest number of LEED-
we have been working with a US the right approach in producing
certified factories in the world and
buyer. And we have supplied over 1 ‘Transformation Leaders’ who
the safety standard is top class.
million pieces already. Guess what? will receive 160 hours of practical
Whereas our competing countries
All the designs have been done by training from Textile Today Training
are far behind in these areas.
one of our colleagues from CLT BD to lead the textile and apparel
Meaning we have the capability to
Pvt Ltd! Not only that, but we have industry in future.
bounce back from any challenges.

40 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12



  
TEXTILE TODAY TRAINING DECEMBER’19

Garments Washing
& Effects
Textile Today Training successfully
completed FSD training on
Garments Washing & Effects
(batch – 5). Trainees from
Renaissance Group received the
certificates from trainer Mr. Koushik
Mazumder, Manager, R&D,
Denimach Washing Ltd.

Apparel Supply
Chain Management
Textile Today Training
successfully completed FSD
training on Apparel Supply Chain
Management (batch – 5). Trainees
received certificates from Trainer
Mr. Biswajit Saha Executive
Director SB Style Composite Ltd.

Lean Manufacturing

Textile Today Training successfully


completed FSD training on Lean
Manufacturing (batch – 5). Trainees
received certificates from Trainer
Mr. Naijur Rahman, Chief
Consultant & Trainer at Mind Works.
December 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 43 to 113 w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

August 2019
Practical approach to How to generate higher If congestion ends
manage dyehouse revenue by operational in roads, logistics
towards zero excellence in the RMG costs to be reduced
manufacturing at least 7-36%
Operational Excellence

Operational excellence in
the RMG manufacturing
Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari
Sr. General Manager (Operations), Hameem Group

An operational plan provides


a clear picture of how a team, 55% Enzyme+Bleach Wash
section or department will
contribute to the achievement 2% Tie+Dye
of the organizational goals.
3% NA
Any organization can tackle the
priorities successfully with a 22% Gmnt Wash
strong operations plan. Because a
complete operational plan maps 11% Enzyme Wash

out the day-to-day tasks that 7% Acid Wash


required to run a business. This will
be successful when operational
excellence is achieved by every
member of an organization. 41% Print+Fraying

RMG operation should be driven 52% No


by the planning team that defines
capacity, projections and cash 2% Emb.+Rib
flow plan for the organizations.
Marketing, finance and supply 4% Emb.+Fraying
chain team are to sync with the
plan and find detailed marketing, 1% Emb.
supply chain and cash flow
plan to satisfy the master plan.
Top management is to drive Figure 1: A model of defining the area that most important to give priority based on the
the planning team and set the availability of time, machine and people.

strategy, tactics and timelines for


specific, measurable, attainable, level agenda items, initiatives and
execution. A well-defined strategic
relevant, and the time-bound key elements. It includes the key
plan is key to find all detailed
plan is important in a micro and areas that the RMG sector will
tactics for execution.
macro level. Because most of focus on in order to achieve its
Importance of strategic plan the organizations and teams fail goals and objectives.
In today’s trend of RMG business, because they don’t assign a top-
Steps to go from strategic plan to
while speed is the only key to notch resource to put together an
action plan
success, Bangladesh RMG sector is implementation plan.
Macro plan: A macro plan is
facing big challenges for negative Establishing an action roadmap
examining external factors
business growth this year. In this with timelines
that affect a business such as
regard, a strategic plan is key to
There are many steps to go manufacturing and production
success to reduce overall cost
through to create a solid processes. The goal of the macro
and deliver goods in the desired
executable plan. Unfortunately, plan is to understand how to grow
period.
quick planning is not the best the business by doing production
This is an exercise in gathering solution. There are times when in a relevant period. This includes
and documenting information you need to step forward and basically 3 key areas for greater
about the past, present and future doing proper planning and production plan –
of business. Strategic planning implementation in order to
1) Defining factory weekly
helps determine where to go over create greater business success.
capacity of cutting, sewing and
the next few years, how to go to An action roadmap is a visual
finishing by optimum product
get there and how to recognize representation of strategic
mix based on physical layout
when arrived. That means planning items. It includes high-

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 45


Sections under Factory Tales
December 2019

An initiative of Textile Today

The Team Page (43-60) Page (61-78)

Tareq Amin December 2019 Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & knitwear

Founder & CEO


December 2019
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 43 to 113 w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 61 to 78

Amzad Hossain Monir Selection of


cotton growth
for a specific

Head of Business Development type of yarn

Bangladesh
should take
benefit of lower
price of cotton

Rakibul Islam
sale as old stock
of yarn finishes

Nepal Nath Sustainable


organic cotton
farming
Practical approach to How to generate higher If congestion ends

Ishrat Jahan manage dyehouse


towards zero
revenue by operational
excellence in the RMG
manufacturing
in roads, logistics
costs to be reduced
at least 7-36%

Business Development

Rahbar Hossain
Editorial Coordinator
On the Cover: This image captured at Silver Line Group On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing
& Advertisement strip showing rayon fiber solution Knitting Technology Solution
SN Abdullah
Research & Development

Sanjoy Kumar Saha


Mohammad Nurul Alam
Sanaullah Sabuj
Engagement & Communication Page (79-96) Page (97-107)
Mosfikur Rahman
Video & Graphic Editing Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion
December 2019
December 2019
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 79 to 96
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 97 to 107

Yeasin Mia Innovation and


up-graded technology of

Graphic Design
GMS Printing catching
attention of global brands

T-shirt printing business


trend: the ultimate Ginny!

Ashraful Alam
Cinematographer

Sujon Mohalder Khantex shows a


Warm clothes sales

Asst. Cinematographer
How will industry 4.0 wonderful
get momentum with change textiles?
the down of mercury combination of knit
and woven sewing line

Riasad Rion
Sr. Executive, Web & IT
On the Cover: This image collected from TWELVE & On the Cover: This image captured from Silkflex &
Advertisement strip showing Textile machinery & Laboratory Advertisement strip showing Printing Solution
Md. Ariful Islam equipments

Md. Masudur Rahman


Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions

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Operational Excellence

Weekly Dec, Jan (28-2) Jan (4-9) Jan (11-16) Jan (18-23) Jan (25-30)
Total Qty 158546 64598 237461 125772 43086
Sew Qty 135100 51031 172666 52665 8641
Balance Qty -26338 -14720 -67919 -73494 -34478
Wash Send 131810 50215 166615 41611 7790
Wash Send Balance -3290 -816 -6051 -11054 -851
Wash Req 109695 46825 135662 26981 5962
Wash Req Balance -22115 -3390 -30953 -14630 -1828
Shipped Qty
Week Dec, Jan (28-2) Jan (4-9) Jan (11-16) Jan (18-23) Jan (25-30)
Buyer 01 TTL 22735 0 3604 0 0
Sew Qty 23300 0 3733 0 0
Sew Balance 0 0 0 0 0
Wash Send 23232 0 3733 0 0
Wash Send Balance -68 0 0 0 0
Wash Req 18810 0 3733 0 0
Wash Req Balance -4422 0 0 0 0
Shipped Qty

Buyer 02 TTL 27194 35100 170399 96666 19312


Sew Qty 27289 36072 151941 39684 4730
Sew Balance -479 0 -21314 -57113 -14528
Wash Send 26150 35958 147284 30230 4310
Wash Send Balance -1139 -114 -4657 -9454 -420
Wash Req 23164 35128 124421 23340 2514
Wash Req Balance -2986 -830 -22863 -6890 -1796
Shipped Qty

facilities. The capacity in SAH key area - to all other performances where
should be analyzed financially most of the people don’t look into
1) Preparing detail plan of
to justify positive IRR and Cash details usually.
execution and focusing shipment
flow.
load, based on allocations in Engineered workstation and
2)Analyzing and categorizing cutting, sewing and finishing. manufacturing design: Industrial
monthly allocations by product engineering is concerned with
2) Defining targeted efficiency,
mix, by wash cycle and process, the optimization of complex
daily VAP process send-receive
fabrications, SAM and allocation processes, systems, improving and
plan (Embroidery, print, wash, etc.)
of styles to different units implementing integrated systems
considering weekly shipment 3) Planning cut date for each of people, money, knowledge,
capacity of the Unit/Factory. style and prepare PCD tracking to information, equipment, energy
define backward linkage activities and materials. This includes
3)Defining 5M requirements in
in detail. basically 2 key areas for good
advance for, 3 months in the
Pre-production tracking: Preparing planning-
Macro Planning stage and drive
HR to manpower, maintenance PCD tracking and apply DMAIC to 1) Pre-production Engineering- to
for machines and management control PCD hit rate is a minimum define detailed execution plan,
for financial investment if any. of 95%. Preparing pre-production methods, layouts and support
tracking and ensuring size set FPY systems like tools, folders,
Micro plan: Micro planning is
(First pass yield) 95%. attachments, etc.
a small area of planning with
specific purposes such as day to Defining a final operation bulletin 2) Production Engineering- to
day working area and defining the for bulk sewing and finishing in the work on quick change over in
combinations of man, machine and pre-production stage along with sewing and finishing, control WIP
people. This includes basically 3 feasibility analysis. This is the key and line balancing.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 47


Operational Excellence


Where are we?
• What is our self judgement on Effectiveness and Efficiency?
• How to improve and control performances?
Efficiency If you cannot express
Low High
what you know in
numbers,you do not
Low efficiency/high effectiveness High efficiency/high effectiveness

Manager chooses the right Manager chooses the right goals


High
goals to pursue, but does a
poor job of using resources
to pursue and makes good use of
resources to achieve these goals.
know much about it;
to achieve these goals. Result: A product that customers
If you do not know
Effectiveness

Result: A product that is too want at a quality and price that


expensive for them to buy. they can afford.
much about it, Then
Low efficiency/low effectiveness
High efficiency/low effectiveness you cannot control it;
Manager chooses wrong
Manager chooses inappropriate
goals, but makes good use of
If you cannot control
it, You are at the
Low goals to pursue and makes
poor use of resources. resources to pursue these goals.
Result: A low-quality product
that customers do not want.
Result: A high -quality product
that customers do not want.
mercy of chance.

Planning Organizing Leading Controllng -Dr. Mikel Harry


Where are we?
•What is our managements
Top
managers
Motorola
doing in practical?

•Are they capable of what they


are assigned to do?
Middle
managers
Top managers may intake some
• Do they need developments? innovative support system by
•Does the SOP/KPI need to be First-line
practicing below as an example-
optimized? managers
1) Attractive incentive program
in different stages which is
Where are we?
Conceptual skills Human skills Technical skills financially feasible for business
Top growth to develop a win-win
•Are the core management managers
skilled enough to comply with situation in the organization
organizational goal?
Middle 2) Regular CSR, Health and safety
• Are we training them? managers
initiative & team outing.

First-line
3) The periodical recognition
managers
system is highly effective for a
high performing management
team.

Big data management: Big data managing). To summaries, the discussion of


management is to ensure data a well-set data tracking system
Continuous Improvement
quality and accessibility for is mandatory to track authentic
projects and training: Continuous
business intelligence and analytics. data in every process and analysis
improvement is a never-ending
This includes 3 key areas for better in real-time. RMG is a business
cycle and an integral part of
operational control - with huge SKU and multi mix
the Lean culture. Adopting a
matrix of small events (internal
1) The factory should have continuous improvement model
and external) where each process
analyzed inventory reports with and training is an excellent
is vital for the entire value chain.
real-time tracking and analysis. and cost-effective approach
Without proper data tracking
for tackling the most difficult
2) The factory must have a systems, it’s impossible to know
challenges. This includes 3 key
synchronized data tracking where to improve a consequently
areas- -
and analysis system from pre- impossible to take the right action
production to the cutting stage. 1) Practicing KANO/FMEA/Kaizen for improvements.
events/5W1H models.
3) The factory should have a Before optimizing any process
supply chain tracking method 2) Continuous training on thread- or doing any improvement tasks;
in real-time to understand the needle-machines, organizational below diagnosis is vital. A couple
challenges in advance and sync behavior and critical thinking. of simple questions need answers
on the master plan. (This is and analyzed internally and find
Supports from management:
where we are generally poor in the key are of optimization.

48 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


datatex datatex datatex
we make IT work for you we make IT work for you we make IT work for you

House # 06 (8th floor), Basic Bluebell,


The Analyst Limited Road # 16/A Gulshan-1, Dhaka-1212,
+880 171 304 2028, www.theanalystbd.net
Dyehouse Management

Practical approach to manage


dyehouse towards zero
Sanjoy Kumar Saha

With the revolution in mind to create a sustainable professionals through ‘Managing Dyehouse Towards
textile industry in Bangladesh, Textile Today has Zero’ training to create sustainable dyehouse.
been striving for the last 12 years to encourage
textile professionals and key decision-makers to One of the challenges of the future decade is to make
implement sustainability at their workplace. A 4 day the production houses more sustainable so that they
long training-coaching-implementation model run can upgrade the current status in all three parameters of
by Textile Today showcased a significant impact in sustainability: economically, environmentally and socially
the participating factories. Immediately after the to make their capacity compatible.
program the trial run gave 32%, 50%, and 40% water
From the very beginning of the training, the trainers
saving in three participating factories (Figure 3).
from the industry tried their best to share the
The factories are currently implementing the new
effective managerial view to run a dye house in a
processes in whole of their dyehouse gradually.
sustainable way.
In the 3rd batch of Textile Today Training
The most interesting part of the training was the
on ‘Introduction to Dyehouse Management’
engagement of APS Group as an implementation
key decision-makers from different renowned
partner. Md. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Group
organizations like Meghna Knit Composite Ltd, AKH
and Rashedul Islam, DGM of APS Dyeing shared
Knitting & Dyeing Ltd., Fakir Apparels Ltd., Envoy
their valuable experience how they have successfully
Textiles Ltd., Tropical Knitex Ltd, Cotton Club, South
managed to reduce water consumption in dyeing
West Composite Ltd., Russel Garments Ltd. and Takwa
which ultimately helped to reduce consumption of
Fashions Ltd. joined in the endeavor of ‘Managing
dyes, energy and time of dyeing. They shared the
Dyehouse towards Zero’.
whole story of water-saving of APS Group.
This time APS group and Harris & Menuk have
It was also a great opportunity for the trainees to
extended their facilities along with Textile Today
have Mohammad Abbas Uddin Shiyak, Assistant
Training and The Textile Institute (UK) to train dyeing
Professor, Department of Dyes & Chemicals

Figure 1: Dr. Mohammad Abbas Uddin, FTA, a renowned expert Figure 2: Learning from the top management is a rare opportunity
in setting sustainable dyehouse cum Assistant Professor, BUTEX, the training program provided. Md. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS
conducting a session in the objective of ‘Managing Dyehouse Group given the practical outlook how a dyehouse could be led to
towards Zero’. new benchmarks of resource conservation.

50 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Dyehouse Management

Process before training


Liquor Batch Machine
Factory Color Total water Time
Ratio Quantity Capacity
Total water- 25270ltr 7 hrs 15 mins
Fakir Apparels 1:06 452 kg 500 kg Black
Water/kg- 55.9 ltr/kg ( without Enzyme )
Meghna Knit total water- 3040 ltr
1:06 40 kg 50 kg Black 10 hrs
Composite Water/kg- 76 ltr/kg
South West Total Water - 50000 ltr
1:06 500 kg 600 kg Black 9 hrs
Composite Ltd Water / Kg - 100 ltr/ kg

New process after training


Water
Liquor Batch Machine Total Total Water
Factory Color Total water Time savings
Ratio Quantity Capacity Capacity Savings / Day
/ Kg %
6.35hr
Fakir Total water- 15960ltr
1:05 452 kg 500 kg Black (without 40 TON 32.02% 649544.27 ltr
Apparels Water/kg- 38ltr/kg
enzyme)
Meghna Knit total water- 1520ltr
1:06 40 kg 50 kg Black 8 hr 30 TON 50% 1034190.603 ltr
Composite Water/kg- 38ltr/kg
South West
total water- 30000 ltr
Composite 1:06 500 kg 600 kg Black 8 hrs 14 TON 40% 508023.45 ltr
Water/kg- 60 ltr/kg
Ltd

Engineering, BUTEX for his valuable session million people.


which helped the trainee to go ahead strongly to
implement sustainability at their workplace. On the other hand, one can fill almost 149
Olympic- size swimming pools (Olympic size pool
How much water saved? measurement: 50 m long, 25 m wide and a minimum
of 2m deep) with that water.
After the successful completion of the training
program trainees have gone back to their workplace If southwest Composite can implement the water-
and tried to implement the learning of water-saving saving method, they can save that much water
methodology. They tried on a trial basis in their in a year which is equivalent to the daily water
factory and if they can implement it in the whole consumption of 1.21 million people.
factory the outcome will be fantastic.
On the other hand, one can fill almost 73
The difference between the conventional and the Olympic- size swimming pools (Olympic size pool
new process is given below: measurement: 50 m long, 25 m wide and a minimum
of 2m deep) with that water.
According to a data from WASA, in 2013, 130 liters of
water was being used per person per day in Dhaka. Not only water, a significant amount of dyes &
If we consider now in 2019, an adult person daily chemicals also can be saved by lowering the liquor
consumes 150 liters water. ratio. A big amount of energy consumption will
also be saved by the water-saving process which
In that sense, from the above information we can ultimately will hit the company’s yearly profit.
see that if Fakir Apparels can implement the new
process that they have learned from this Dye House Textile Today with all its partners is trying best to
Management Training, they can save that much share a very crystal picture of the ways of water
water in a year which is equivalent to the daily water savings in the dye houses as the whole textile
consumption of 1.58 million people. industry can follow and go forward strongly to meet
the next decade's sustainability challenges.
On the other hand, one can fill almost 95
Olympic- size swimming pools (Olympic size pool The next batch of “Introduction to Dyehouse
measurement: 50 m long, 25 m wide and a minimum Management” training will be started soon. If anyone
of 2m deep) with that water. from the textile industry wants to participate to
have the knowledge of the most interesting water-
If Meghna Knit Ltd. can implement the new process, saving techniques in the dye houses please check
they can save that much water in a year which is and register at: https://training.textiletoday.com.bd/
equivalent to the daily water consumption of 2.48 course/certificate-on-dyehouse-management/

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 51


Textile Today Question of the Month

From the beginning of 2019, the textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh is facing challenges at
several stages. To get 2020 as prospective for business, many factories have taken initiative and
implemented new innovations like process development to reduce overall wastage in the production,
efficiency improvement, product development, product diversification and new market outreach
other than the US and EU.

What is the new initiative you have taken in your factory as well as
implemented new innovation in 2019 to get 2020 as better and more
prospective?

Md. Shovon Islam (Shawn) A.H.M. Habibur Rahman


Managing Director Director
Sparrow Group Paramount Textile Ltd

Most of the buyer thinks Bangladesh


This year we faced some order crises means ‘cheap price cheap product’.
due to global market competition. And we have no capacity to produce
Right now, manufacturing is being the value-added fabric. This is not true.
done based on long lines. So, I have In 2016, we established a design studio
completely converted all of my long with strong R&D. We produce high-
lines into 11000 people that I employ quality fabrics to cope up with fashion
in Bangladesh. All long lines have trends. So that from 2017, we received
gone. I have gone into a small thing many orders. In 2019, the overall
called cells and we will be able to industry is facing an order crisis but
handle small quantities because we we are booked. Now for next year, we
get a lot of small orders. My complete are focusing on innovation with fashion
focus is to increase the efficiency of trends. In this regard, we are regularly
my workers and go for more and more going to international exhibitions to
diversified and value-added products. present our good story with the buyer.

52 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.
Textile Today Question of the Month

Day by day factory production line increasing


but new factory investment is reducing. In this
reality, we have to plan to increase our existing
Md. Shahidul Haque Mukul worker efficiency due to production cost is
growing. This year we are constructing LEED
Managing Director & CEO
gold standard green factory ‘Adams Styles Ltd’.
Adams Styles Ltd

Kiron Morshed Md. Abul Hossain


General Manager Managing Director
(Marketing & Merchandising) Sheema Fashion
Shanta Industries Limited

Most of the RMG factories are doing


Sustainably is one of the vital issues and
huge investments for increasing capacity.
most of the brands are working on it. Now
So that they are facing an order crisis.
we are focusing on the sustainable product
We are investing in value addition, not
with sustainable wash. We are waiting for
for increasing capacity. We are doing
the delivery of our new kit for our laundry
a value-added product like Jeans and
which is due in the next few days. We have
kidswear. Now we are sourcing a small
also invested in ‘Eco Finish’ technology which
number of orders with value addition.
is a nebulization system. I think within 2025,
Besides, we invested in human capital to
most of the buyer requirements will be a
increase their efficiency. Our main target
sustainable product.
is customer satisfaction with delivering
good quality products.

54 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


E v e n t s To d a y

M.B. Trade Corporation’s seminar shows


path to overcome future challenges of
textile industry
Presence of International experts and active participation of many university students and
experienced textile professionals made the seminar successful and opened up a platform of
sharing future challenges and way out of the textile industry.
Special Correspondent


M.B Trade Corporation arranged CNTAC , China, Pauking Wu – CEO,
2-day long international technical Refond Equipment Co. Ltd were
seminar on Textile Testing and present there as special guest.
Processing Equipment for quality
improvement on 18 to 19 December Industrial Revaluation Professor Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi
inaugurated the seminar. He
that witnessed participation from 4.0 has already been highlighted the challenges
international experts, University
teachers, students and textile started. The range of Bangladesh textile industry is
facing at this moment.
professionals. product, productivity,
He said, “Presently we are
The seminar was a great initiative cost of the textile passing very tough time in textile
by M.B trade, which started its
journey in 2004, has opened
products is changing and RMG sector. We have very

up a new platform for sharing very frequently. Hope strong competitors like Vietnam,
Cambodia, and Myanmar etc. So,
knowledge for the students as well this kind if seminar will the professionals working in the
as the textile professionals on the
future challenges and way outs of help the participants textile field need to play a vital role
to overcome the problems in the
the textile industry of Bangladesh. to be familiar with the textile industry to make it more
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, new technologies to profitable, vibrant and sustainable
Pro-Vice Chancellor and Vice
Chancellor ( Acting ) BGMEA
overcome the future to sustain in the long run.”
Later Prof. Asish Kumar
University of Fashion and challenges of textile Samanta shared his views
Technology (BUFT) was present industry. regarding sustainability with the
as Chief Guest in the 1st day in the
audience and guided them with
seminar, and Prof. Asish Kumar
Samanta; Dept of Jute & Fibre
Professor Md. Abul Kashem different techniques to achieve
sustainability in the textile industry
Technology, IJT, University of Vice Chancellor, Bangladesh of Bangladesh.
Calcutta, Mr. Lin ( China National
University of Textiles 2nd Day of seminar was presided
Textile & Apparel Council ),

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 55


Youngone Group- Dhaka,
Chittagong Lab, Kenpark, Pacific
Jeans, RFL Group, Ocen Chem Ltd,
Dekko Group, EPIC Group all Lab
and all other around-70 factories.
GUANGZHOU HONGJING LAB
EQUIPMENT CO., LTD, which
established ‘HONGJING’ head
office in 2003. HONGJING brand’s
is rooted in South of China
and cover 80% big enterprises.
Since 2008, it invested the first
infrared machine (Patent no.:
ZL200820048489.X) for its
customers to reduce the pollution
Figure 2: Participants from university teachers, students and textile professionals. and provide the functional and
high-quality products to solve the
and inaugurated by Professor Md. equipment’s and management. sample and mill recipes issues.
Abul Kashem, Vice Chancellor, Dynamic professionals from
To develop new product research
Bangladesh University of Textiles different international testing
is the key, in this regard, M.B
where Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi organization like Intertek,
Trade Corporation and REFOND
Khan, Prof. Asish Kumar Samanta; TUV SUD Bangladesh, Bureau
are jointly offering world class
Dr. Mahbubul Haque, Prof. and Veritas, etc. discussed and gave
testing equipment at very cheap
Head, Dept. of Textile Engineering, presentation about what is textile
price compared to the existing
Daffodil International University, testing in textile perspective, why
companies to speed up the
Dr. Md. Rubaiyat Chowdhury, Prof. it is necessary, what is the method,
research work of Bangladesh
& Chairman, Department of Textile what is the result and future
Textile Industry which is
Engineering, BUBT were present prospect of testing.
remarkable.
as special guests.
REFOND’s valuable user client
Thanking all the guests and
Professor Md. Abul Kashem Bangladesh are Intertek Testing
speakers for their valuable time
said, “Industrial Revaluation 4.0 Service, KOTITI Bangladesh,
to make this seminar successful
has already been started. The Bureau Veritas, CTL- Consumer
Engr. Atul Devnath, CEO, M.B.
range of product, productivity, Testing Laboratory, TUV Rheinland,
Trade Corporation assured that
cost of the textile products is Epyllion Group, Hameem Group-
M.B trade will arrange this kind
changing very frequently. Hope All washing plant, Nassa Group,
of knowledge sharing seminar
this kind if seminar will help the ABA Group, Pakiza Group, KDS
more frequently to help the textile
participants to be familiar with the Textile Ltd, Base Textile Ltd, Palmal
professionals as well as students
new technologies to overcome Group, Laila styles ltd, Odyssey
for the betterment of the textile
the future challenges of textile Craft Ltd, Beximco Group, ZXY
industry of Bangladesh.
industry.” Ltd, GEO Chem Bangladesh,
Both days Mr. Lin introduced the
GB testing standards with the
Overall solutions & one-stop service system
audience and Pauking Wu shared
different testing equipment, its
Computer color
features and functionalities with measurement
and matching
the audience, which encouraged
the students to work for Dispensor
developing new products.
Mr. Pauking Wu, CEO of REFOND
HONGJING
EQUIPMENT CO. LTD actively
laboratory
discussed on the displayed
solutions Sample dyeing
machine
equipment and demonstration.
Mill recipe
Second day, the seminar was
Re-confirmed
specially decorated for university recipe dyeing
Laboratory layout
machine
students to make young equipment configuration
Finishing Send sample color management solution
future leader informed about
modern textile testing process,

56 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


GUANGZHOU HONGJING LAB EQUIPMENT CO. LTD
Deals in Dyeing Automation, Textile Machinery's, Testing Equipment & Spare Parts.

New Advanced Electronic Ozone Test Chamber Washing Colorfastness Tester Dimensional Stability Tester
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ICI Pilling Tester
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Universal Tensile Moisture Spreading


Digital Tearing Strength Tester Stretch Recovery Tester
Strength Tester Tester- AATCC195

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Automatic Lab Dispenser Dye Staff Dissolving & Dispensing Automatic Chemical Dispenser Warp Reel, CSP tester &
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F i b e r To d a y

Sustainable fashion

Why
Sustainable fashion is often touted
as the solution, but what exactly
is it? Sustainable fashion is a
movement toward clothes that
are manufactured responsibly

viscose is
respecting the environment and
the communities in which they are
produced.

It takes into account not just the


production of the raw materials

the future
that go into the fabric, where and
how the clothes are made, and
who makes them.

Viscose-rayon is a natural
alternative to acrylic, polyester,

of fashion
nylon and other petroleum-based
synthetic fabrics. Made from
100% wood cellulose, viscose
is biodegradable and naturally
decomposes. Viscose-rayon is
increasingly a popular choice for
designers and demand increasing
APR story
as a sustainable fashion fabric of
choice.
Fast fashion may have improved polyester and acrylic, which make
consumer choice but it has come up around 60 percent of garment Three areas have to be managed
at a cost. The average number production, are all forms of plastic well if viscose production is
of times clothes are worn before produced from petroleum. to be sustainable: i) pulp-
being thrown away continues to sourcing – making sure that
decline, falling 36 percent in the Synthetic fabrics also do not
pulp is produced sustainably
15 years to 2017. In the US, the biodegrade, meaning at the end of
certified to International
average garment is worn just 40 their life, if they are not recycled,
certification standards and does
times before it is discarded. they are either burned or disposed
not contribute to deforestation;
of in landfills, where they will
ii) clean production ensuring
Synthetic fabrics such as nylon, remain for centuries.
minimal environmental footprint
on emissions and iii) making a
positive economic impact on the
surrounding communities.

Indonesian-based Asia Pacific


Rayon (APR) is the first fully
integrated viscose rayon producer
in Asia from plantation to viscose
fiber. APR, which has a production
capacity of 240,000 tons per
annum, is co-located with pulp
supplier APRIL in Pangkalan
Kerinci, in Riau province, Indonesia.
APR and APRIL both are part of
a group of companies managed
by Singapore-headquartered
resource-based group RGE.

Almost half of the output of APR is


used in the domestic market, while
Figure 1: APR is situated in Pangkalan Kerinci where it is vertically integrated up to the
plantation. This integration creates unique advantages for APR as a fiber supplier. the rest is exported to countries

58 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


F i b e r To d a y

Sustainable Viscose Power optimized with renewable


biomass: Most of the mill’s
Circular Traceable
electricity is generated from
Renewable
Plantation renewable resources, using clean
Seedlings Nursery Plantation Harvested
energy throughout the APR mill
Chemical
and tranported processes. As a result, APR can
Weighbridge
Recovery drastically reduce the use of non-
renewable fossil fuels.
Biomass
Energy Viscose Dissolving Woodchips Woodyard Sustainability policy: APR aims
Bales Pulp
to help build a vibrant and
Figure 2: Viscose-Rayon Production Cycle. Viscose-rayon is sourced from sustainably sustainable textile industry
managed plantations and forests. where raw materials are
responsibly grown, using the
like Turkey, Pakistan, Bangladesh,
Vietnam, Germany and Italy. APR is committed to latest technologies to maximize
efficiencies and to supply world-
Why select APR as a source of
clean production of class products for customers all
viscose staple fiber? viscose-rayon fiber over the world.
and constantly strives APR openly and constructively
Stable quality and supply: Being
fully integrated from plantation to operate in the top engages all customers, civil society
to viscose-rayon bale, APR has quartile of viscose- organizations and fashion brands
to ensure that the company can
minimal risk of supply disruption rayon manufacturing, continue to strive to be among
and is also protected against the
volatility of commodity prices. in terms of reduced the best-managed and most
greenhouse gas (GHG) sustainable companies in the
R&D and product development: industry, creating value for the
APR has invested in a pilot-scale
emissions, improved community, country, climate and
yarn and fabric manufacturing carbon disulphide customers.
operation, which is expected to (CS2) recovery, It is APR’s vision to produce
start-up in Q1 2020. It will possess
all three spinning technologies
and wastewater the best quality viscose fiber to
of Ring, Open-End and MVS to management in line enable our customers to grow
produce yarn for both knitting with industry-leading their product offerings and be
competitive in the market.
and woven applications, with a
capacity of 7,600 tons per year.
practices.
APR will be participating in the
World-class clean manufacturing: Dhaka Int’l Textile & Garment
APR is committed to clean Machinery Exhibition on 20-23
plantations. This information is
production of viscose-rayon fiber Feb 2020. Visit APR booth in Hall
publicly reported under www.
and constantly strives to operate 2-114 to know more about their
followourfibre.com
in the top quartile of viscose- sustainable viscose rayon.
rayon manufacturing, in terms of
reduced greenhouse gas (GHG)
emissions, improved carbon
disulphide (CS2) recovery, and
wastewater management in line
with industry-leading practices.

Traceability: The challenges of


creating a truly traceable supply
chain are complex, often costly,
and require strong collaboration.
Further, traceability is a
collaborative effort that involves
many actors across the entire
supply chain. APR’s fiber is fully
traceability back to where the
material is sourced including its
Figure 3: Inside APR Mills. Quality fibers as a result of synergy of strong quality control and R&D.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 59


CSR Update

‘Sky is the Limit’: Children's


day for workers at Essential
Clothing Limited
Staff Correspondent

Leading readymade exporting company Essential moderator in the program.


Clothing Limited arranged a children's day for the
workers by titling Sky is the Limit on 6 December Saiful Islam Khan in his speech expressed deep
2019 at factory premises Akulichala, Sakashor, gratitude to the workers who are contributing to
Maddha Para, Kaliakoir, Gazipur. Essential Clothing for its consecutive growth. He
also addressed for the worker’s children to be more
The daylong event was scheduled for a cultural attentive and active for a good education.
competition from the worker’s children and a prize
distribution ceremony for those who have obtained Khuki Akter who once worked in the same factory
positions at different competition levels. as an assistant in the sewing line now working in the
managerial post told Textile Today that she is happy
“I am very happy to attend today’s event that inspired to work in this factory because she received all the
me to be one of the best citizens of the country,” facilities to grow herself for a senior position. She also
Maria Akter, a daughter of a supervisor expressed her informed, recently her visit to Geneva, Switzerland as
feeling while holding a school bag that received from one of the representatives from the factory is one of
the program. the biggest achievements.

Figure 1: Md. Matiur Rahman Robin, Director, Essential Clothing Figure 2: Children of the staff and workers attended the program.
Limited hands over a prize among the winners.

Saiful Islam Khan, Managing Director, Essential On the occasion of merit-money distribution program
Clothing Ltd was present as the chief guest in the for the worker’s children those who obtained GPA 5 in
program while Kawser Parveen Chowdhury, Chairman, 2018, Saiful Islam Khan announced a merit scholarship
Essential Clothing Ltd attended as a special guest. for the worker’s children as Primary School Certificate
(PSC) the GPA 5 holder will receive 3 thousand taka,
Md. Matiur Rahman Robin, Director, Essential Junior School Certificate (JSC) 5 thousands taka,
Clothing Limited inaugurated the event. Muradpur secondary school certificate (SSC) 10 thousands taka
Govt primary school, Head Teacher, Arif Dewan and and Higher Secondary Certificate (HSC) 15 thousands
Officials of Textile International organization Abu taka.
Raihan and Ashraful Kader were also present. HR
executive Md Haider and Masudul Haque were the

60 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & knitwear
December 2019
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 61 to 78

Taipei Bangla,
the pioneer
to produce
specialized knit
fabric in BD

Unveiling industry best practices


Selection of
cotton growth
for a specific

Knitting & Knitwear


type of yarn

November 2019
Bangladesh
should take
benefit of lower
price of cotton
sale as old stock
of yarn finishes

Sustainable
organic cotton
farming
C o t t o n To d a y

Selection of cotton growth


for a specific type of yarn (Part III)

Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM

Choosing the right growth or Lead time is also very important.


origin is very important. Each Say Indian and Australian cotton
growth has its own advantages has 4-6 weeks’ lesser lead time
and disadvantages that need than the USA, Brazil and West
to be factored before selecting Africa. Lesser lead time would
any growth for a specific type of lead to the lesser average stock
yarn. Each growth has historical of cotton which helps to reduce
characteristics but, in each season, storage, interest and working
due to changes in rain, heat, cold, capital requirement.
pest attack, or any particular
Another important thing is the
reasons the yield, production,
assurance of quality. Normally,
quality and composition of
Australian, USA and Brazilian
characteristics vary and with these
cotton come with individual bale
changes selection of growth may
test reports which really is a relief
differ from time to time.
to the mill. Historically, CIS was
Another thing is the basis of favorite cotton and earned the shipment. The export ban was
different growth revolves over reputation of the best quality imposed a few times that affected
time. For example, 3 to 4 years even running cotton. West the supply chain of Bangladeshi
ago, the basis of West African African cotton although doesn’t spinners greatly. Pakistan itself
cotton was 500-600 points lower have individual bale test report, is short of their cotton. Pakistani
than now it is. On the other hand, normally comes with consistent cotton is okay up to Ne 30/s
the basis of the USA for 2019- quality. but trash content is very high,
2020 would be 200-300 points contamination is a major issue and
Indian cotton quality if bought reliability is low on the right quality
less than it was 2 or 3 years ago, in
after March shipment has some and timely shipment.
my opinion.
risk on the right quality and timely

We are focused to provide consultancy services for any


business but specialized in spinning. We are equipped
to find solutions for problems and develop necessary
strategy, system, and people for the transformation of
the organization for long term sustainability.

In pursue to transform business and professionals for


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Contact: 01730357699
E-mail: [email protected]
C o t t o n To d a y

perception among Bangladeshi


spinners. It’s good to see those
wrong conceptions are getting
eliminated and the import of this
growth over the last 3 to 4 years
has been increasing. This growth
is also 100% contamination-free
Selecting right Identifying gap to Buying cotton from and produces BCI cotton. It also
growth, specification bridge the gap of raw only committed
and shipment cotton supply chain merchants and agents has bale wise HVI report. This
growth is the most competitive
Figure: Suggestions to reduce surprises, quality issues and shipment problems.
cotton that is available in quantity.
But having said that it is most understanding of some major This growth for medium count
important for the spinner to growths that would interest to the knit and the woven yarn is a close
follow the following suggestions spinning mills in Bangladesh for competitor to USA cotton.
to reduce surprises, quality issues the next decade: - 3. West Africa/Africa: These
and shipment problems: - growths are very even running and
1. USA: the USA is one of the
1. Select the right growth, major exporters of cotton in the yarn realization is very good. CIMA
specification, shipment and world that exports 10-15 million (Cotton Made in Africa) and BCI
quantity for a year in advance. bales of cotton in a year. It has a (Better cotton initiative) cotton are
Keep the processes revolving wide range of cotton right from also available in large quantities.
monthly or quarterly basis, as it short-staple to extra-long-staple The basis has gone up due to
suits your mill. PIMA cotton. As most of the higher demand and a reduction
brands are looking for traceability in Uzbek cotton export. Although
2. To identify the gap or to bridge these growths are not machine
the gap of raw cotton supply and BCIproceed this growth gives
the most along with Australian picked, due to ITC supported
chain, if any, plan for the next contamination reduction
lot in advance. The next lot plan cotton. It is also contamination-
free which is a very useful programs, contamination level is
should be based on the current well within an acceptable level.
stock that is left (Excluding the characteristic expected by the
bales that are being used for the spinners. 4. India: India is also a major
current lot) and the consignments Memphis Eastern (M/E) and exporter of cotton in the world
that are expected to arrive before California Arizona (C/A) are and also has a wide range of
the current lot is finished. Please popular with spinners who are quality right from short-staple
keep in mind that after the cotton producing knit yarn. SUPIMA to Sea Island cotton. Due to
consignment reaches the factory, it or PIMA cotton is also in good the continuous efforts of CCI
takes a minimum of 3 to 4 days to demand for the high-end market (Cotton Corporation of India),
complete the sampling and testing for its superior quality. The biggest the contamination level has
(HVI and AFIS) before it could advantage of USA cotton is significantly improved. The quality
proceed for the bale layout plan. individual bale ID and HVI report, of cotton also has improved. But
which helps spinners a lot in 100% bale to bale HVI report is not
3. Normally, 1st pick has some available.
issues while 2nd and 3rd pick making their purchase decision
comes with the best quality. So, based on fact and this also helps India is the cheapest source
origins that don’t have 100% to plan production in advance. of organic cotton. The best
bale to bale HVI data should be Basis of M/E 31-3, 1-1/8”, shipment time of quality Indian
planned in a way that doesn’t 3.80/4.9 NCL, GPT 28 (Min) C&F cotton is November to March.
cross 3rd picking time. Of course, Chittagong if available @ 1200 However, Indian cotton is available
from season to season, harvesting and C/A @ 1400 would encourage throughout the year. As India
time changes and it should be spinners to buy more of this has a strong spinning industry,
kept in mind and keep the crop origin, in my opinion. Fumigation the best quality cotton goes to
progress report of different origins is mandatory only for USA them and rest is left for export. To
in your daily routine. growth in Bangladesh based on ensure quality many spinning mills
an outdated perspective and if from Bangladesh, therefore, visits
4. Buy cotton from only the ginning mills in India to take
committed merchants and agents. it is waived like other growths it
would help reduce cost and save a samples before selecting the lots
Buyers also need to be committed for shipment which is normally of
as the relationship between buyer week while releasing USA cotton
consignments. 100 bales.
and seller is reciprocal.
2. Brazil: Brazil had a very wrong To be continued……
Now, I would share some of my

64 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


AASustainable
Sustainable Value
ValueFor
ForYour
YourKnits
Knits DTG 2020
B A R C E L O N A
2 0 1 9

CIRCULARKNITTING MACHINE ||SINGAPORE


KNITTING MACHINE |DATE| |
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JUNE 2020
TH
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LOCATION| |
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FIRA DE BARCELONA,
CITY BASHUNDHARA
GRAN VIA BARCELONA, (ICCB)
SPAIN

| BOOTH |
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HALL 7, BOOTH
HALL8.0, 7-177
BOOTH C106

SINGAPORE More Than 15.000 Machines UNITEX or United Texmac Pte Ltd is a Singapore
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established in Singapore since 1996.
Ever since the company’s incorporation, our top management
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Bangladesh market by frequent customers visits, building
strong bonds and friendships over two or more generations.

“I am always directly in touch with the customers , knowing their


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products to ensure our customers stay competitive and relevant
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Until today Unitex is completely in line with latest market


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Our customers have been using Unitex circular knitting
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SERVICE India And Bangladesh Unitex has been right there, supporting projects locally in India
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known for unfailing service and became preferred supplier and
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Industry Best Practices

Taipei Bangla, the pioneer


to produce specialized knit
fabric in BD
FT Research Team

Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd has a strong command year-on-year. In the first four months to April 2019,
to produce flamboyant knit fabric as well as dyeing imports were Tk 3,629 crore. In 2017, the knitted
expertise that most of the Bangladeshi fabric fabrics import grew 49.16 percent year-on-year to Tk
manufacturers still not ventured. The challenges of 7,510.62 crore, according to the BTMA data.
Bangladesh textile industries generally identified
Zohir Uddin Ahmed, Executive Director, Taipei Bangla
the upgrade of new machinery as well as the
Fabrics Ltd said Textile Today, “Bangladesh fabric
development of expertise in fabric manufacturing.
manufacturers are not investing for high-end and
In this regard, Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd is a pioneer synthetic fabric because of complicate process and
and ahead in position for its outstanding fabric big set up of machinery. But someone has to come
innovation and dynamic fabric quality. Recently forward and take the initiative. In this regard, Sorwar
Textile Today team had a visit to the factory to Hossian, Managing Director of Taipei Bangla Fabrics
discover the untold story of exceptional knit fabric Ltd has come forward because he thinks different so
innovation and how they motivate the entire team to that he put his greatest venture to produce world-
get expertise in a similar field. class synthetic fabric locally.”
Synthetic fabric made by Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd
Quality Fleece Fabric: Fleece Fabric is a luxuriously
supple fabric with a deep pile for better insulation
quality. This is a synthetic insulating fabric made
from a type of polyester called polyethylene
terephthalate (PET) or other synthetic fibers.
Generally, fabric manufacturers in Bangladesh are
comfortable and familiar with the basic fabric, based
on cotton only. But they are not concentrating to
make synthetic fabric such as fleece fabrics.

Figure1: A green overview of Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd, which is


made in complete shade structure and is 100% export-oriented
fleece fabric and yarn dyeing industries.

Objectives behind the specialty fabric mill


Bangladesh RMG manufacturer imports immense of
exceptional fabric from abroad just to fulfill buyer’s
demand for high-end products. To import fabric
requires long lead time as well as it has numerous
limitations such as MOQ issues and limitation of
rectification for any kind of quality problem.
According to data from Bangladesh Textile Mills Figure 2: Md. Ashiqur Rahman, AGM (Fabric and Dyeing) is
Association (BTMA), in 2018, knitted fabrics worth checking the shearing process. Shearing is the cutting off of the
Tk 9,590.41 crore were imported, up 27.69 percent nap to give a uniform height on pile fabrics.

66 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


In this respect, Taipei
Bangla Fabrics Ltd is an
exception to produce
various kinds of fleece
fabrics made of polyester
yarn and finest brush
effect.
Types of fleece fabric
Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd
produces are:
• Cotton or cotton blended
fleece
• Polyester fleece
• Lycra spandex fleece
• Microfleece
• Polar fleece Figure 3: Zohir Uddin Ahmed, Executive Director, Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd, in the fabric gallery
while showing the innovative Quality Mesh Fabric produced by the strong R&D team.
• French terry fleece
• Slub fleece Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd is specialized for mesh
fabric that usually used for sportswear. They
• Sherpa fleece
positioned themselves as a leading manufacturer
Modern brush technology and fabric supplier in Bangladesh for Sportswear
Polyester fleece garments have become increasingly Mesh Fabric. But they need further new set up of
popular because of its soft and fuzzy feel machinery for a complete phase of mesh fabric
characteristics. The pile surface on both sides of the design and production said D.P.A. Sunil Shanttha,
fleece fabric, meaning each side has a layer of cut Executive Director, Operation, Taipei Bangla Fabrics
fibers is call brush effect. Ltd.

Brush technology is a major part of fleece fabric Type of mesh fabric Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd
manufacturing but for the lacking of technical produces are:
expertise Bangladeshi mills are not ready to produce • Polyester mesh
Micro fleece and Polar fleece that are made of
• Nylon mesh
polyester yarn. Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd has adapted
all the technical expertise by modern machinery to • Tulle
produce specialized brushed fabric. • Power mesh
To get competency in specialized brush fabric they • Powernet
hired foreign experts who operate all the operations.
Dyeing process of mesh fabric
The foreign experts are not only to operates overall
operation rather the objectives of hiring them Polyester is an extremely difficult type of fabric to
are to prepare next level fabric experts from the dye, especially if the fabric is 100% polyester. This
Bangladeshi professionals. fiber can be trickier to dye than plant or animal
fibers. The hydrophobic nature of polyester fiber
Md. Ashiqur Rahman, AGM (Fabric and Dyeing),
makes it difficult to dye.
Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd, said, “We have many
foreign professionals to run the entire operation and Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd gains the expertise in
to give world-class standard in fabric manufacturing. Polyester dye both in yarn dye and solid fabric
But the objective of hiring the professionals has dyeing process. Their foreign experts are the
long term goal, is to make the team ready for future potential to provide flawless quality and various
experts from the Bangladeshi nationalist.” colored fabric.

Quality mesh fabric: Mesh fabric is a type of fabric Md. Ashiqur Rahman, AGM (Fabric and Dyeing),
characterized by its net-like open appearance. The Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd, said, “We are using
synthetic fibers of fabric is typified by its lightweight alternative power source for fabric and yarn dyeing
heft and permeable texture. This is typically made as the natural gas connection still under process
of polyester or nylon. Mesh is available in a variety but after all the challenges we are able to provide
of constructions including woven, knits, laces, or the world-class dyed fabric. We hope, soon the
crocheted fabrics. government will allow us to use natural gas and this

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 67


Industry Best Practices

Figure 4: Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd has modern dyeing machinery for a complete dyeing process in cotton and synthetic fiber.

will be extra miles for us in fabric made fabric can help to reduce the delivery if needed. Zohir Uddin
dyeing” lead time. Ahmed, Executive Director said,
“We have a vision for faster
Why choose Taipei Bangla Fabrics Way to immediate change:
delivery so to save time RMG
Ltd for specialized fleece and Sometime RMG manufacturers
manufacturers can take partial
mesh fabric? need to change the quantity
delivery from us.”
or color and this is usually not
Delivery in Shorter lead time: In
possible if ordered abroad but in Fast response and professional
case of fabric import, Bangladeshi
this case Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd suggestion: Customer relationship
RMG factories calculate a minimum
can help to make the changes at a is very important for the fabric
of 65 days to in-housed the fabric.
different level. manufacturer. In this respect,
This is the biggest reason for long
Taipei Bangla Fabrics Ltd. comes
lead time for garment shipment Partial delivery: Taipei Bangla
forward for troubleshooting or
from Bangladesh so the locally Fabrics Ltd can provide partial
maintenance support if needed.

Rockay: Making running socks from ocean plastic waste


Desk Report

US startup premium running of mesh zones so the feet can


apparel brand Rockay is not any ventilate as well.
average new brand hoping to
make business. It has taken a Rockay’s factories are based
mission impossible stance with in Lithuania, which gives the
providing runners a sustainable company extra edge as 40% of its
and world-class product by turning socks market is in Europe. In the
plastic into fabrics. And rescuing USA it has a 50% market share.
the world out of the environmental
“It is close to the market. We also
crisis it is facing.
try to ship directly from the factory
waste. Yarn is made of Econyl and to our main warehouses, cutting
Back in May 2018, Rockay started
recycled nylon – but not from Merino our middlemen and reducing
with socks with recycled yarn
wool as it was not durable enough additional transportation,” said
from ocean plastic waste. They are
in combination with nylon and Daniel Chabert Pfefferkorn,
softer, durable and free of odor.
polyamide and it would rip too often. Founder, Rockay.
The fibers are similar to virgin fibers
It ensures extra cushioning in the The revolutionary company wants
and all yarns are 10% recycled and
right places to avoid giving wearer a complete apparel line-up by 2020.
on average about 50% from ocean
blisters and the right amount

68 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


www.knitdenim.com
Hengliang textile, as a national knitting denim product development base enterprise, after more than ten
years of growth and development, has become a number of domestic and foreign clothing brands
designated fabric suppliers.

Company equipped with rope dyeing production line, imported circular knitting machine, high speed
warp knitting machine, finish line, and other knitted denim production equipment, dyeing, weaving and
finishing of knitted denim comprehensive management and production, have professional scale.

Company produces 5000 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim corn yarns, 8,500 tons of hengliang
brand knitted denim fabrics, and 2.5 million pieces of knitted denim garments annually. The company’s
main customer base at present is throughout Europe, America and southeast Asia, enjoying a good
reputation in the denim industry and fast fashion brands at home and abroad.

Indigo knit Knit printing

Colorful knit denim Cotton warp knitting

JIANGYIN HENGLIANG TEXTILE CO., LTD


House: NO. 83 YunGu Road, Zhouzhuang, Jiangyin City, Jiangsu Province, China. T: +86-0510-86155677 E: [email protected]
C o t t o n S a l e s Tr e n d

Bangladesh should take benefit


of lower price of cotton sale as
old stock of yarn finishes
Textile Today Analysis

Bangladesh needs to take advantage of the current Bangladesh imports more than 8 million bales of
lower prices of the global cotton trade, as the cotton in a year and the consumption of cotton
old stock of yarn in the spinning mills comes to by the mills has been increasing more than by 10
an end for increase in demand from the garment percent year-on-year. The consumption of cotton will
manufacturers. continue to grow in the near future because of the
high export of garments from here.
Currently, the widely consumed 30-carded yarn has
been sold between $2.72 per kilogram (kg) and $2.75 Even a one and half year ago, Bangladesh was
per kg compared to $2.60 per kg and $2.65 per kg, the highest importer of cotton as the Chinese
two months ago. government stopped buying cotton from other
countries with a view to reducing the old stock and
own cotton grown by the Chinese farmers.

So, Bangladesh is again the second-largest cotton


importer and consumer worldwide. Bangladesh is fully
importing dependent on imported cotton as the local
growers can supply less than three percent cotton.

Cotton prices varied a lot over the last few years.


However, the prices of cotton fell to 66.87 cents
per pound in the futures markets this week, which
is good news for Bangladesh. Now, Bangladeshi
cotton importers can either book a lot of cotton in
the futures markets or import the cotton a lot as the
Figure 1: The low price of global cotton is a great advantage for prices are declining worldwide.
BD spinners to fight against dumped yarn from other countries
to revive the sector. Even a few months cotton was traded in the futures
markets between 85 cents and 90 cents per pound,
Recently, the prices of yarn increased to an extent
but now the prices are showing a downward trend
because of higher demand from the garment
because of higher supply and higher production in
manufacturers as they are receiving increased work
the major cotton-producing countries like in the USA,
orders from the western retailers and brands.
Australia, India, China, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, some
“The mills have no old stock of unsold yarn now. The African countries and in central Asian countries.
old stock is finished as the garment manufacturers
If the local spinners can purchase cotton at lower
are purchasing the yarn from them,” said Monsoor
prices, they can supply the yarn and fabrics at lower
Ahmed, Secretary to Bangladesh Textile Mills
prices to the local garment makers.
Association (BTMA), the platform of the spinners,
weavers and dyers. As a result, the garment exporters can sell the goods
to the western buyers at competitive prices and will
Although the prices of yarn are low, the old stock is
able to face the challenges of low prices offered by
no more, Ahmed said.
the buyers during the bad time of export.
Bangladesh is the only country in the world, which
Between 2015 and 2017 Bangladesh imported
is mainly dependent on cotton fiber whereas other
226,000 bales of cotton each year, but the quantity
major textiles and garment-producing countries have
tripled last year to 785,000 bales (one bale equals
diversified their production to other manmade fiber
282 kilograms). Last year, Bangladesh imported 8.28
like viscose.
million bales of cotton worth $3 billion.

70 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


C o t t o n S a l e s Tr e n d

Low price of Considering BD spinners Spinners need


cotton is great current cotton can supply caution in
advantage for low-price, cotton stock, as
yarn/fabrics at
BD spinners to Bangladeshi there is a
fight against cotton lower prices to possibility of
dumped yarn importers local garment inventory/pay-
from other import a lot of makers ment of high
countries cotton bank interest

Figure 2: Recent scenario of BD spinning sector.

Globally, the production of cotton will remain more is higher than in other countries, which makes it
or less 120 million bales in the next year, he said. difficult to store in the warehouses for a long time.

Recently, African nations have surpassed India to become Ahmed also said there are so many advantages when the
the largest source of cotton for Bangladesh as local prices of cotton go down in the international markets.
spinners and millers look to cut down their dependence
on a single source for their vital raw material. Because the cheaper import of yarn and fabrics from
China and India has been affecting the local primary
Last year, Bangladesh, the largest importer of cotton textile sector. As a result, sometimes, the local
in the world, met 37.06 percent of its requirement for spinners have to face the problem of low prices of
the white fiber from East and West African countries. yarn and fabrics, the BTMA official also said.

India accounted for 26.12 percent of the total cotton As a result, the local spinners cannot make a profit
imports, down from more than 60 percent two years and feel discouraged in the expansion of their
ago, according to data from the BTMA. operations and for fresh investment in their business,
he said. If the investors do not invest in the primary
Last year, 11.35 percent of the cotton came from the CIS textile sector employment for workers will not be
(Commonwealth of Independent States) countries, 11.14 created a lot, Ahmed said.
percent from the US, 4.65 percent from Australia and
9.65 percent from the rest of the world. Although the cotton importers can enjoy the low-
price benefit, they will have to be cautious as there is
The low quality and irregular shipment of the Indian a possibility of inventory and payment of high bank
cotton are the main reason behind the falling imports interest rates.
from the neighboring country, said Ahmed.
For example, if any spinner imports a huge amount
It is written in the letter of credit that there may be 3 of cotton and made yarn, but could not sell at
to 4 percent less cotton than the amount agreed upon profitable prices, then he will have to face the
when the imported fiber is weighed in Bangladesh. But challenge of inventory. However, he will have to pay
in many cases, it is 10 to 15 percent less. the high bank interest rate for a loan, the industry
insiders said.
The concentration of moisture in the Indian cotton

Cotton import scenario of BD

Recently, African nations have


surpassed India to become Last year, 11.35% of cotton
largest source of cotton came from the CIS countries

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 71


C o t t o n To d a y

Latest update on cotton and yarn


Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM

Market situation agricultural products from the Fixation strategy


USA during the 2019/2020 season.
The ICE index has moved up by Amongst them, cotton import ICE at 65-68 is reasonable and
2-3 cents since the news of phase maybe around 0.80 million MT fixing at this level for immediate
one deals with the USA and China. equivalent to USD 1.60 billion shipments seems reasonable too. If
The yarn price is floating at around which is quite positive for US someone is interested to fix at this
USD 2.60 to 2.80 per kg. The growers and exporters. Based on level for the long term is even not a
spinners imported average cotton this market may have ‘Priced in’ bad option with a distant put and/
price has come down to USc 72- the de-escalation of the US-China or forward sale of yarn. The decision
82/lb. So, the spinners focusing trade war as the phase one deal would vary from mill to mill as per
only on basic 100% cotton carded looks to soften the risk related to the individual mill decision-making
knit yarn is close to breaking global growth and ICE may remain matrix and risk appetite.
even. But the volume of orders firm around USc 70+/-5 during
available for yarn has gone down Suggestions for improvement of
2019/2020 season.
in comparison to last month. Due profitability
to the competitiveness of Indian But the seed of conflict that
For long term sustainability, individual
cotton, it is the most popular remains is the technology and
mills may develop their own strategy.
choice for this season. restructuring the US-Chinese
Bangladeshi mills have a lot of scope
trade mechanism. These would
US-China phase one deal for improvement in reduction of
eventually determine the future of
cost through improving operations;
the trade war between China and
Still, no written agreement has notably raw material, productivity,
the US. Particularly, technological
been signed. But based on the people and system development.
restrictions that the US may
current information from different Investment in the management and
impose on China would be a major
sources, it seems that China may development of leadership to create
factor to influence commodity
import about USD 40 billion of a local team is very important.
prices and the global economy.

72 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Sustainable Cotton

Sustainable organic cotton farming


Jeyaraman Anandha Kumar, Lecturer, Department of Textile Processing,
G.R.G. Polytechnic College, Kuppepalayam, Coimbatore, South India

Cotton, the most important fiber part of cotton production enters up groundnut cultivation. While
crop of India plays a dominant the human food chain. We also cotton yields were on the decline,
role in its agrarian and industrial know that the pesticides sprayed increasing amounts of fertilizers
economy. It is the backbone of on cotton do not only affect the and pesticides were needed to
our textile industry, accounting for target pest. maintain the crop.
70% of total fiber consumption in
Beneficial insects and other Declining yields and increasing
the textile sector, and 38% of the
animals are killed, too, so that input costs, in combination with
country's export, fetching over
pests that formerly were of minor the frequent droughts, have left
Rs. 42,000 crores. The area under
importance now have become many farmers in a debt trap.
cotton cultivation in India (8.9
a major problem (for example, When speaking to smallholder
million ha) is the highest in the
whitefly and aphids). In some organic cotton farmers in
world, i.e., 25% of the world area
areas of Andhra Pradesh, the developing countries, the following
and employs seven million people
groundwater has become so motivations are stated as the most
for their living.
polluted with chemicals that important ones:
Organic cotton still only occupies people need to buy their drinking
Market demand for textiles made
a tiny niche of far less than 1% water from outside.
from organic cotton mainly exists
of global cotton production.
In addition, many of the farmers in Europe, the USA, Canada,
However, the number of farms
and laborers spraying pesticides Japan and Australia. Some large
converting to organic cotton
face health problems that cause companies become involved with
and the number of projects is
them to miss a lot of work and organic cotton textiles in order
constantly increasing. There are a
have additional costs for medical to improve their corporate image
number of reasons to grow cotton
treatment. There are many cases with respect to environmental and
organically. The negative impacts
in India where farmers have even social accountability.
of conventional cotton farming on
died after applying chemical
the environment and health are The main reasons for consumers
pesticides.
obvious and well known. to buy textiles made out of
Central India, many conventional organic cotton are:
But if you look at the fact that
farmers have faced a decline in soil
around 60% of the cotton weight To reduce the risk of skin irritation
fertility over the past two decades.
harvest is cotton seed that is and allergies
In some cases, the soil got so
processed to edible oil and cattle To protect the environment from
hard that the farmers had to give
feed, you realize that the bigger toxic chemicals

Advantages of cultivating cotton organically


Conventional cotton Organic cotton
Environment • Pesticides kill beneficial insects • Increased bio-diversity
• Pollution of soil and water • Eco-balance between pests and beneficial insects
• Resistance of pests • No pollution
Health • Accidents with pesticides • No health risks from pesticides
• Chronic diseases (cancer, infertility, • Healthy organic food crops
weakness)
Soil fertility • Risk of declining soil fertility due to • Soil fertility is maintained or improved by organic
use of chemical fertilizers and poor manures and crop rotation
crop rotation
Market • Open market with no loyalty of the • Closer relationship with the market partner
buyer to the farmer • Option to sell products as ‘organic’ at higher price
• Dependency on general market rates • Farmers usually organized in groups
• Usually individual farmers
Economy • High production costs • Lower costs for inputs
• High financial risk • Lower financial risks
• High yields only in good years • Satisfying yields once soil fertility has improved
Figure 2: Advantage of Organic Cotton.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 73


Sustainable Cotton

Successful
organic Improving
Crop rota�on Selec�ng the
co�on and crop Organic Appropriate
soil fer�lity right co�on
farming diversity manures irriga�on
varie�es
with a
systema�c
approach

Capacity Documenta�on Timely and Appropriate Timely weeding


Monitoring
building and and proper pest and intercult,
of pests
experimen�ng inspec�on picking management opera�ons

To support sustainable agricultural prevent problems and avoid 2. Establishment of crop rotation
production in the country where substitutes for conventional inputs and crop diversity; fostering
the cotton is grown as far as possible. This requires natural balance
a thorough understanding of 3. Selection of varieties suitable
To ensure that the farmers in
nutrient and pest management to the conditions (soil,
developing countries receive a fair
and the ability to continuously availability of irrigation, market
price.
observe and learn. requirements)
Growing organic cotton – a 4. Appropriate types and amounts
To get satisfactory yields and
system approach of manures at the right time
income in organic cotton farming
Converting a farm to organic 5. Timely crop management such
it is necessary to adopt a number
production does not simply mean as intercultural operations,
of integrated measures in a
replacing chemical fertilizers and weeding and irrigation
system approach, ensuring that
pesticides with organic ones. 6. Careful monitoring of the crop
the interaction among soil, plants,
Organic cotton must be grown in and sufficient protection against
environment and people is well
a diverse and balanced farming pests according to the concept
balanced. The ‘ingredients for
system that also includes the other of economic threshold level
success’ all need to be applied
crops. 7. Timely and proper picking of the
together (Figure 2):
cotton
Instead of troubleshooting, 1. Suitable measures to improve 8. Sufficient documentation for
organic farmers should try to and maintain soil fertility inspection and certification

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I n n o v a t i o n To d a y

A new source of natural


fiber in Bangladesh
PAU Correspondent

The horizon of diversified uses dyeability of fibers were said Prof. Dr. A.B.M Abdullah.
of natural fibers are in increasing performed with standard
Before that fiber were
trends due to their ecofriendly, laboratory condition in Textile
extracted from the leaves by
biodegradable, re-cyclic and Engineering Department,
ChemiBiochemi-Mechanical
reusable characteristics properties. Primeasia University (PAU).
accelerated retting process
Recently different studies have been
The study was conducted by Md. developed in dying lab PAU.
undertaken to find out new sources
Sabbir Hasan, Md. Ahsanul Kabir
of nonconventional natural fiber. This proximate study and
Oyon, Md. Torikul Islam of Textile
analytical results indicate
the possibility of using this
lignocellulosic fiber as textile
fiber; woven, non-woven, knitted,
blended, composite, pulp/
paper, sources of alpha-cellulose,
microcrystalline cellulose, nano-
cellulose, cellulose derivatives and
lignin-based commercial products.
Sansevieria Trifasciata plant
is native to India, Indonesia
and Africa. It is evergreen and
perennial. Its leaves grow vertically
Figure 1: Research conducted team of Textile Engineering Department, Primeasia
University (PAU). from basal rosette. Leaves are stiff
sword-shaped.
Matured leaves are deep green
with light grey-green. Its leaves are
thickened and fibers are laminated
with green waxy membrane.
Presently this plant is urbanized
as a decorative garden plant for
their air purification characteristic
property and conversion of CO2
Figure 2: Fiber, waxy membrane, residue of Sansevieria trifasciata. into O2 at night.
Indigenously it is called in different
names as ‘Mother-in- law’s tongue’,
‘Saint George’s sword’, ‘Snake
plant’ or ‘Bowstring hemp’ in our
locality it is called ‘Bhaghachokor’
and it is widely found in different
areas of Bangladesh.

figure 3: Fiber, scoured fiber, bleached, dyed fibers of Sansevieria Trifasciata plant. “We are trying to find something
new that will benefit our country.
Sansevieria Trifasciata is a long Engineering Department, Primeasia We are very optimistic about this
leafy wild plant, 70 species of University. And supervised by Prof. fiber,” said Md. Ahsanul Kabir Oyon.
them are available. Dr. A.B.M Abdullah. 2kg matured green plants were
A proximate study on different “This fiber has enough potential for collected from garden of Fokir
physical and chemical properties diversified uses. Proper use of this fiber Bari, Dewna, Kapasia, Gazipur.
along with composition and can play a big role in our economy,”

76 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Automation

Automation – a key
theme for Saurer Twisting
Solutions at Domotex 2020
Desk Report

Domotex, the world's largest generate significant added value


trade fair for floor coverings, will for Saurer’s customers.
take place in Hanover from 10 to
13 January 2020. Saurer Twisting Process control with Saurer Mill
Solutions is looking forward to Management System Senses
welcoming customers and visitors
This digital system bundles and
at their Booth B35 in Hall 11, says a
analyses production, quality
recent press release.
and performance data across all
Automation solutions made to divisions. Even machines from
measure for processing BCF yarns third-party manufacturers can
be managed. Plan deviations,
At Domotex, Saurer Twisting quality fluctuations or irregularities
Solutions will present customer- are thus detected in real-time,
optimized solutions for process enabling mill managers to react
automation and product cost quickly.
reduction. The automation of
material transport systems offers The factories can also use the sum
significant customer benefits. of the data to analyze processes
comprehensively in order to find
Figure 1: Automated guided vehicle
This is because these systems PackDrive. opportunities for optimization.
are individually adapted to the
needs of our clients and enable an The Saurer exhibition team is
take-up area significantly reduce the
optimum material flow throughout looking forward to welcoming
machine's changeover times.
the entire twisting mill. customers and visitors at
Modern drive technology and the Domotex 2020 and to
Whether in the form of a lifter in innovative yarn sensor technology informing them about the latest
combination with the rail transport for monitoring the yarn quality developments.
system FlexFlow or the automated
guided vehicle PackDrive, the
modern automation solutions
offered by Saurer are the next step
into the future.

Easier and faster with new


machine generation

The new generation of its carpet


yarn machine, CarpetCabler
CarpetTwister 1.10, offers
an optimum of possibilities
for reliably and confidently
mastering even the most unusual
requirements of a lively market.

Central adjustments of almost all


production parameters, an intuitive Figure 2: CarpetCabler CarpetTwister 1.10.
user interface and the newly designed

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 77


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Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion
December 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 79 to 96

Unveiling industry best practices


Apparel accessories & fashion
December 2019
Warm clothes sales Khantex shows a
How will industry 4.0 wonderful
get momentum with change textiles?
the down of mercury combination of knit
and woven sewing line
Industry 4.0

How will
industry
4.0 change
textiles?
Megan Ray Nichols, STEM Writer & Blogger

Modern technology is changing possibility to customize products experimentation going on.


the state of manufacturing, with for individual customers on a
most of it happening as a result massive scale, something unheard For example, it’s rather apparent
of Industry 4.0’s rise. Another of in the past. what smarter, more data-driven
element is an evolution in machines will offer, at least on
consumer demand, as people want The question is, how will these the surface. By tying them into a
higher-quality products delivered technologies alter the textile network of sensors and devices,
at unprecedented rates. industry, specifically? What will it’s possible to automate related
Industry 4.0 change in textile processes and monitor them
Industry 4.0 has allowed production? remotely on an innovative scale.
manufacturers to keep up with But when you start talking about
market changes and consumer Revolution 4.0: How the Textile how to apply those technologies
demand, thanks to the incredible Industry Is Changing in different settings, that’s when
capabilities of technology. things get a little hazier. One
Like any other manufacturing
Computers, software and manufacturer might adopt smart
segment, the textile industry is
nuanced data have all become sewing machines, and another
seeing the rise of more advanced
an instrumental part of the might adopt textile-based 3D
and smarter technologies such
production process. Smart, printers. A third might stick with
as artificial intelligence, machine
connected devices and sensors manual labor, but employ smart
learning, big data, automation
better inform active processes, sensors to offer a safer work
systems, 3D printing and more.
sometimes even allowing for environment for their personnel.
complete autonomy. The technology has created a
The real-time monitoring of
perpetual state of change, and
Overall, the technology that’s systems and applications is the
it’s something that will likely stick
powering Industry 4.0 offers star of Industry 4.0, allowing for
around for quite some time. The
a slew of benefits, including a wide array of benefits from
trend is mainly positive, offering
incredible levels of scalability, increased scalability to improved
considerable improvements across
improved security, better controls, quality controls. What that looks
the board. In reality, while many of
visibility improvements and an like precisely to each textile
the related technologies already
increase in customer satisfaction. manufacturer depends on the
provide incredible features and
Also, new opportunities have organization.
functionality, there is still a lot of
become available, such as the

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 81


Figure: Industry 4.0 has allowed apparel manufacturers to keep up with market changes and consumer demand.

Ultimately, most textile operators place at alarmingly high rates. textile prints using selective laser
are moving toward a digital sintering — a form of printing —
transformation like we’re currently When 3D printers enter the fold, which resembles traditional knitted
seeing all across the business they flip the standard textile pieces.
world. It’s a generalized push manufacturing process entirely
toward more digital-focused on its head. It’s possible to Of course, the two most
and smarter processes, made craft textiles using new, unique significant hurdles of adoption
possible with the help of modern materials and designs and are the associated costs and the


technologies. Think of it as with a much higher degree of adaptation of existing processes.
bringing a legacy operation into An overhaul of existing machinery,
the digital world of today. equipment and systems is a costly
endeavor any way you cut it. The
Imagine an entire plant focused benefits have to outweigh those
on producing cotton-based
clothing. Conventionally, manual
The automation costs for organizations taking on
the change. In most cases, they
laborers do most of the work opportunities do, but that’s not always the case.
with specific tasks automated via of Industry 4.0 High capital costs, expensive
industrial machines. For instance,
a worker might sew the seams
have helped many energy rates and resource
availability can all affect the total
and pockets into shorts, while organizations deal cost of a transformation.
a machine handles the buttons with rising labor
What Does the Future of Textiles
and zippers. In a smart, Industry
4.0 plant, however, the entire
costs. In countries Look Like?
operation would be data-driven such as China, India
It’s nearly impossible to predict
and handled via digital systems. It and Turkey, the digital what the future of the textile
would remove much of the manual
labor from the equation, allowing
transformation has industry will look like years down

for faster production cycles with already taken place at the line, at least with any degree
of certainty. One thing is apparent,
a higher degree of accuracy and alarmingly high rates. however, and it’s that modern
quality.
technology will pave the way
The automation opportunities of for more unique, cost-effective
personalization for the customer.
Industry 4.0 have helped many and high-quality goods. When
A researcher from the Manchester
organizations deal with rising coupled with more customization
School of Art in the UK named
labor costs. In countries such as opportunities and faster time
Mark Beecroft has already
China, India and Turkey, the digital to market, all the benefits will
demonstrated this technology in
transformation has already taken contribute to a higher customer
action. He used it to develop nylon
satisfaction rating.

82 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


W i n t e r F a s h i o n Tr e n d s

Warm clothes sales get momentum


with the down of mercury
Textile Today Analysis

The sale of winter clothes is on the


rise with the rise of the mercury
of the cold in the country. As
the winter season is deepening
consumers started going to the
shop to buy the clothes. The
retail outlets have also stored a
wide variety of clothes for the
customers.

The crowds are gathering in the


city's rising shopping malls.
Figure 1: Consumers buying winter clothing from local brands are increasing. Courtesy:
Some leading export-oriented TEAM Group
garment factories along with old January end. "The responses for warm clothes
local clothing brands have been are high from the customers this
dominating the local markets as However, the winter season in the time. We are expecting very good
the number of foreign retail outlets rural areas starts early and lasts up business this time," said Musa.
is still very low in Bangladesh. to February end.
"We are expecting more sales of
Few types of research showed that Also, the intensity of winter in the warm clothes as the mercury is
the annual retail domestic clothing cities is not so high. As a result, the going down gradually. Main sales
market size is nearly $15billion manufacturers use light fabrics as items are pure leather jackets,
and it is growing nearly 15 percent the demand for those clothing items woven and jeans jackets, knit
year-on-year. is high among the customers. jackets and hoody jackets in his
stores,” Junaid Abu Salay added.
Bangladeshi clothing retail market "Sale is growing every day as the
is still performing in informal ways cold is growing. The sale of light With the changes in weather
although some high-rise shopping warm clothes is higher than the conditions and rising economic
malls have been trying to give it a heavy clothes because of light conditions which helped increase
good shape. winter," said Md. Junaid Abu Salay the disposable income of growing
Musa, a Director of Epyllion Group, middle-income consumers in the
The majority of the customers are which operates the brand Sailor. country, the demand for light
still staying in the villages and they
prefer to buy their clothing items
from their nearby informal markets.

However, of the amount of


$15billion local clothing markets, a
major share is warm clothing items
meant for the winter season.

Recently, the behavior of


consumers in purchasing of
warm clothes in Bangladesh also
changed a lot due to changes in
the weather conditions.

In Bangladesh, the winter season


does not last for a long time. In
the cities, especially, in Dhaka, the
winter season lasts hardly for two Figure 2: Consumers buying winter clothing from local brands are increasing. Courtesy:
months starting from December to TEAM Group

84 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


fabric suits has gone high during this
winter season. The consumers can
afford the prices of such suits items,
he said.

“Currently, we have 14 outlets across


the country and four more will be
opened soon. Of the four, one is going RO With Pre-treatment water Plant
to be opened this week in Dhaka. The
sale of the garment is so high that his
company runs 11 outlets only in Dhaka
and more outlets will be opened in
Dhaka soon,” he said.

Echoing with the views of Musa,


Shihab Uddin, Executive, (Corporate
Affairs and Branding TEAM Group)
UV Sterilizer
which runs the brand ‘Twelve’ said
sale in his stores has been growing
gradually because of lowering of
temperature across the country.

TEAM Group is also expecting good


business this time. His company is
pressure-gauge
also going to bring more new outlets
soon in Dhaka and other major
divisional cities soon. Almost all the Figure 3: Consumers buying winter
Vartical Multi stage pump
clothes are made in his factories to be clothing from local brands are increasing.
Courtesy: TEAM Group
stored and sold to customers.

Since the income of the people in His company mainly sale pure leather
Bangladesh have been increasing, jackets, normal jackets, hoodies, long- Vessel Head
their tastes are also changing. sleeve t-shirts and premium vests.
Especially, the export-oriented
However, the sale of t-shirts in his
garment factories realized the
company’s outlets is higher than other
potential of the business. As a result,
clothing items. The winter season is
they are also started serving the local FRP Vessel
also a season of weddings, he said. So Strainers
markets. So, they are opening up
the sales of wedding items also go up
new shops in the malls to grab the
during this season, he said.
customers.
“The sale of Punjabis is increased a lot
Previously, most of the demand for
due to wedding season,” Ahad also said.
warm clothes used to be met through RO Membrane

imports mainly from China and India.


Taaga by Aarong winter season
But now the demand can be met locally.
collection’s look can be described
with classic femininity and vibrancy
“The sale is increasing day by day
through a spectacular range of outfits.
with the advancing of the winter
Taaga introduces a selection of chef
season,” said Shah Abdul Ahad, Junior
coats, long jackets and vibrant tunics
Manager of Trendz, another local
to help consumers stay fashionable this
clothing brand. Currently, Trendz has a
season. The outfits come in different
total nine outlets across the country.
cuts and sleeve styles with tips on how
“Of the number, six are in Dhaka and to style each outfit.
three are outside of the capital. We Water treatment Media
Also, other leading brands in
have a plan to open another retail
Bangladesh like Amber, Sailor, Sara
outlet at Wari in Dhaka in January as We Supply all kind of water Treatment Products
Lifestyle launched winter collections
the responses from the customers are
of different blends and mix of ethnic
very high for our clothes,” Ahad said.
and western combination.
Corporet office
House # 01(1st floor & ground floor), Road # 04
Section - 06, Block - Ka, Mirpur-2,
Dhaka - 1216
www.toptechenterprise.com.bd
Hotline: 01733337770
Industry Best Practices

Khantex shows
a wonderful
combination of
knit and woven
sewing line
FT Research Team

Khantex Fashions Limited has


been established in 2018 but in
this short span of time, it has
built trust and confidence for
its customers by innovation and
dynamic production process.
The factory has a wonderful
combination of knit and woven
product making in the sewing
line that very few factories in
Bangladesh can do.

They have expertise in both woven


and sewing production so that no
order will be left only to lack of
capacity.

Why the idea to combine knit and


woven production line?

The global apparel business is


in the downtrend where some
retailers are closing their shops
Figure 1: Premises of Khantex Fashions Limited, a total of 25 acres of land has chosen to set this green
just to minimize their cost. Brands
factory in a green landscape.
are looking for cheaper options
and new product lines to attract cheap labor is now history in Limited started its sewing line for
customers. Bangladesh after a 51% wage hike the making of both knit and woven
at the end of last year. products. This will help to grab all
But the RMG sector in Bangladesh
the product categories that the
sometimes is not able to So to survive in the business, concern brands sale in their shops.
reduce the product price due to many factories are taking new
limitations in raw materials that innovations that can help the Humayun Kabir Salim, Managing
needed to import. The myth of sore business. Khantex Fashions Director, Khantex Fashions Limited

86 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


said Textile Today, “We don’t
Average operators efficiency
want to miss any opportunity to 60
grow in the business. Our aim to
50
combine both the sewing line to
create expertise in both product 40
lines so that operators will not sit
30
idle during dull season. Both the
operators from Knit and woven 20
can be familiar other than their
10
58% 55% 50%
own product.” Efficiency Efficiency Efficiency
Knit Woven in both
0
Status of sewing line
Figure 2: Efficiency of Sewing operators in knit, woven and both categories.


Khantex Fashions Limited set 12
to maximize their business.
knit sewing line and 6 for woven
in the same production floor so
“When we see brands have some
that operators and workers can
big volumes in one category
be familiar with both production
and small in others then we take
lines. This helps the knit and
both of the products. This helps Quality is becoming
woven operators to exchange
us sharing profit between both a vital key to the
views and knowledge as well as to
understand the difference between
product types. On the other hand, successful growth
buyers also become happy to keep
both the line processes.
all the goods in one production of a company.
As per efficiency record, it is found
unit that reduces their extra Reworks in the
that operators who are working only
workload to place somewhere garment industry are
else,” said Humayun Kabir Salim.
for a knit product can get efficiency a common problem
58% whereas woven operator has
55% and those operators who are
Creating expertise: Multi- that hampers the
functional skill is considered as
doing both knit and woven product
a robust and exceptional quality
smooth production
have efficiency 50%.
that assist to stay ahead in rate. Rework is a
Rashidul Hasan, Manager IE,
the profession. But in general, vital issue for poor
Bangladeshi workers are not
Khantex Fashions Limited
wellbeing to be multifunctional
quality products
informed Textile Today, “We
have 4 months skill evolution for
due to lack of training and and low production
the multi-skill senior operators
guidance. rates. Stitching
and then provide them special
Realizing the matter, Khantex operations (with
incentive based on performance.”
started to provide training for respect to cutting
Advantages to combine the knit
developing expertise in the
Knit and woven sewing line by
and finishing) need
and woven sewing line
exchanging operators. Primarily high skill as well
Not to keep unturned any operators get slow improvement as quality work,
opportunity: Every retailer has its in the new machine, product and
process but eventually, they could
because of difficulty
own special product that makes
them unique and dynamic from manage to cop up and develop associated with
the competitor. Besides, core expertise. repairing of products
product they also keep some
Khantex already has started sewed with wrong
products that can be sold as
accessories or additional parts for
to implement the Traffic light specifications.
the core product line.
system which is the most effective
inspection tool used to reduce
To overcome this
Suppose if knit is the core product defect generation at source. problem, Khantex
for a brand then they have an is adopting the
“Quality is becoming a vital
additional product like bottom to
key to the successful growth Traffic Light System
have a good combination of set
in the shop. Having the expertise
of a company. Reworks in the to meet quality
in both product categories any
garment industry are a common requirements.
problem that hampers the smooth
manufacturer can get extra miles
production rate. Rework is a vital

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 87


Knit product creates more
dust than that of woven: Due
to construction of fabric knit
produces fiber dust during
production in the sewing line.
The operational dust may not
possible to clean right when it is
created and so it remains in the
atmosphere until all the sewing
line gets to stop.

On the contrary, the woven line


is cleaner and less dust producer.
The operation for knit and
woven on the same floor is more
challenging because of flying dust
and to keep the product clean
particularly for woven items.

Md. Kafil Uddin, General Manager-


Operation, Khantex Fashions
Limited said, “We realized the
Figure 3: Khantex Fashions Limited is a wonderful combination of knit and woven sewing
problem of dust that created from
production line. knit sewing line and containing
woven products. So, our next plan
issue for poor quality products Because the knit product has less is to separate both the product
and low production rates. Stitching sewing process and it does not line but the exchange of operator
operations (with respect to cutting require multiple operations than will be continuing.”
and finishing) need high skill as that of woven products. Woven
well as quality work, because of products have many critical To summarize it can be opined
difficulty associated with repairing sewing processes as well as plenty that the idea of combination for
of products sewed with wrong of machines so usually, operators both knit and woven sewing line
specifications. To overcome this of the woven unit always ahead in is unique for Bangladesh, and
problem, Khantex is adopting the the workplace. this can be an example for other
Traffic Light System to meet quality manufacturers to follow.
requirements.” said Head of Quality.

The 5s System is under developed


to make maintaining the workplace
in good condition a visual process.

Rashidul Hasan said, “To exchange


knit and woven operators and
make them familiar for both of the
products require special guidance.
Just training is not enough to build
expertise rather helping them to
work in the sewing machine so
that they become skilled. In this
regard, we are flexible to meet
production targets until they get
enough time.”

Challenges to combine the both


knit and woven sewing line

Knit operators are weaker than


woven operators: Khantex makes
woven bottom and those operators
work for woven bottom they have Figure 3: Khantex Fashions Ltd. receiving 'The bizz, 2019' by WORLDCOB Boston award
in recognition of outstanding contribution to Bangladesh garments industry.
more expertise than knit operators.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 89


E q u i p m e n t To d a y

VEIT is the name of epitome of quality,


efficiency and service in BD RMG sector
Staff Correspondent

The VEIT Group is established a vision of appreciation, solutions- Reinhardt Veit and Christopher
in 1956 by Reinhardt Veit a focused approached training/ Veit (grandson of Reinhardt Veit)
worldwide leading manufacturer coaching, commitment, honesty, is the Vice President since 2014.
of ironing tables with hand-irons healthy relations/empathy. For more He joined VEIT GmbH in 2011 and
and steam generators to ironing than 60 years, VEIT products are mainly responsible for research
presses, form finishers, shirt used in more than 100 countries and development, materials
finishers and fusing machines. It across the globe and its products management, manufacturing,
also includes automated units such have been models of outstanding quality management, human
as Jacket/Blazer Pressing, tunnel quality and maximum efficiency. resources.
finishers and bagging machines.
Guenter Veit is the Group Guenter Veit, Group President said
VEIT customers include the well- President, mainly responsible regarding the Bangladesh market
known clothing manufacturers, for Sales and Finance, Joined “Most of the world-top ranking
textile refinishers, textile care and VEIT GmbH in 1975. In 1990 green factories are established
dry-cleaning companies, laundries management was handed over in Bangladesh which is bearing
and automotive interior suppliers. to Günter Veit from his father, positive image for the country.
As Bangladesh is the 2nd largest
garment manufacturer in the world
VEIT presence was seen in this
market as one of the partners for
the last more than 30 years.

To expand its business in the


region ‘VEIT Hong Kong Ltd
/ Bangladesh Liaison Office
established in 2009. Recently
VEIT Bangladesh Liaison Office
celebrated its 10 years activation
where BGMEA President Dr. Rubana
Huq attended as chief guest.

The VEIT Group with its head


office in Landsberg, Germany, has Figure2: The 10-year celebration of VEIT Bangladesh, a big number of owners and high
officials of the RMG sector attended in the program.

90 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


E q u i p m e n t To d a y

Figure 3: Team VEIT Hong Kong Ltd / Bangladesh Liaison Office.

But along with all the prospective steam generators and steam garments from VEIT.”
trend of growth, the RMG sector supply systems. Furthermore, they
of the country is not able to offer a wide variety of services “VEIT is the only source for 90%
provide the highest production including informative seminars, of green factories in Bangladesh.
because of lacking in technological hands-on training and the planning ABA Group, AKH Eco, Ananta
development.” and construction of steam, vacuum Group, Beximco Group, Bitopi
and compressed air facilities for Group, Dekko Group, Dressmen,
“The world is changing frequently all types of industries (garment Epyllion Group, East-West
where the customers are the key manufacturing and refinishing, Industrial Park Ltd., Energyapc
factor for fashion not the brand. automotive, etc.) Fashions Ltd., Ha-Meem Group,
Online purchase changes the Fortis Group, FCI BD Limited,
trend that they need goods in 24 Md. Arifur Rahman, Sr. Sales Remi Holding, Viyellatex Group,
hours. So there is no alternative Manager, VEIT Hong Kong Ltd Ted Bernhartz (Miraj Textile),
way rather than automation and / Bangladesh Liaison Office Saiham Suits Ltd., Meghna Knit
digitalization in the manufacturing said Textile Today, “More than Composite, Meghna Denim
unit,” he said further. 80% of quality RMG factories in Limited, Mohammadi Group,
Bangladesh is utilizing ironing Square Fashion, Eco Fab Ltd.,
VEIT also specializes in fabric equipment, fusing machines, Progress Apparel, Interlink, and
finishing (the ironing and pressing pressing machines as well Comfit Composite are few of our
of fabrics), bonding of fabrics and as refinishing equipment for valuable customers,” he added.
other materials as well as electric
S o u r c i n g Tr e n d s

China remains the top sourcing


for fast-fashion manufacturing
Desk Report

According to the latest Chinese of sourcing


Customs statistics from January
to August 2019, among the top
for American
brands? This
$48.96 bn
in FY 2018, China’s
10 garment exporters in China, is because in apparel exports to U.S.A
American brands such as Nike and comparison to
Gap have maintained sustainable China and other
growth. manufacturing
countries are not
7.9% export
Many U.S. brands and retailers increase
able to provide year-on-year
have little choice other than China
quicker service.
because of the nature of their
manufacturing needs and others Cao Jiaping,
are in scale-back mode hoping to
skirt the uncertainty-fueled risk.
Chairman of the
China Chamber
73% export
accounts for clothing
of Commerce and 27% accounts for
Last year China’s exports of
for Import and textiles
textiles and clothing to the U.S.
Export of Textiles
totaled $48.96 billion, a year-on-
and Apparel said,
year increase of 7.9%. For the first
“If the [quantity Speaking last week at the
half of 2019, those exports reached
of] zippers and all the buttons are United States Fashion
$21.23 billion, with growth slowed
miscalculated before production, Industry Association’s (USFIA)
1.6% year over year. Clothing
it can be solved in China in only Apparel Importers Trade and
accounts for 73% of those exports,
two hours, while in Southeast Asia, Transportation Conference, Cao
and textiles make up the other
the production line would need said textile and apparel trade “is
27%.
to be shut down for two days to the fundamental interest of the
The growth of China textile wait for the right accessory to be two countries and the importance
exports is higher than in the replaced,” Cao explained. of a mutual market still exists.”
garment sector. This is mainly
“Also, for some products with While the United States and China
due to the incompleteness of the
complex procedures, the delivery figure out whether they agreed
supply chains of those low-cost
time in Southeast Asia is at least to roll back tariffs or didn’t, the
countries like Bangladesh and
one month slower than in China. Chinese companies have already
Cambodia. The shortage of raw
Therefore, brands with fast-fashion been taking the lead in making
materials and fabrics boosted
items that need to be replenished overseas investments, setting up
China’s textile exports as well.
quickly are still better off staying factories, finding strategic partners
A survey at last month’s Sourcing in China,” he further added. and accelerating the construction
Summit New York revealed that as
Compared with emerging textile of overseas warehouses. Cao
many as 35 percent of attendees
and garment manufacturing commented.
from major global apparel brands
countries such as Southeast Asia “In the next five years, it might be
and retailers intend to reduce their
and Africa, China’s supply chain in the [Chinese] companies’ plan
China sourcing.
is still in a favorable position for to transfer 20 to 30 percent of
Those investments are going fast orders, and fashion orders and production to overseas factories,”
toward setups in places like high-end orders are still and will Cao said.
Vietnam, Cambodia and stay in China, Cao expressed his
Bangladesh, in order to retain an “We can still see and hope for
opinion.
opportunity to serve U.S. brands the potential of Sino-U.S. trade
According to Cao; China still holds operations in the future, and
and retailers wherever they’re
a 31.5% market share of textiles from where I can see, Chinese
headed, and to avoid the tariffs
and apparel in the U.S., Cao said and American companies have
that are making things tricky in
the country’s share is down nearly not stopped trying to seek
China; however, many still rely on
2% — though he’s not worried opportunities for cooperation,” he
inputs from China.
about the sector’s sustainability. said.
Why does China still at the top

92 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

database of accessories and


clothing, hosted by PlatformE.
Fashion designers can use this
dressmaking kit to create choices
for customizable products, which
PlatformE conceptualizes and then
uploads into its software-based
‘engine’. Most amazingly using
a dashboard, brands are able to
measure client preferences and
analyze meaningful data such

Fighting fashion waste as most prevalent styles, colors,


ingredients and other variants.

with digitized data system “Providing customers and partners


with a Software Development
Kit (SDK), which connects and
integrates a disparate system of
BTT Technology Review
brands, retailers and factories,
The fashion industry worldwide application of technology is to enables our customers to scale
is immensely overburdened with match this existing, often high- while still having the flexibility to use
overstock, throwaway clothes, quality stock to customers who their preferred layout, User Interface
single-use plastics ending up in have a demand for it, who are (UI) and User eXperience (UX),”
landfills or released micro particles- often unaware it’s available to Gonçalo Cruz, Co-founder and
dyes and chemicals polluting the buy,” said David Bishop, founder president of PlatformE explaining
marine system and putting the lives and CTO of Love the Sales. the software-centric approach to
of living creations at risk. efficiency of his company.
The company works to help
The giant brands, fashion retailers retailers to maximize the financial “In addition, as our technology is
operate mostly in an open-loop recovery of excess inventory. e-commerce engine agnostic, it is
business model which is day by interoperable with any e-commerce
Many of the brands also used AI
day increasing the never-ending platforms, both commercially available
to analyze fashion consumers'
fashion waste. and proprietary, increasing our
choices and make predictions
flexibility to integrate,” added Cruz.
For years researchers, scientists, about what they will want next. And
manufacturers, brands, industry one of the effective way utilized The question that arises can data
stakeholders are trying to recently is Made-To-Order (MTO) and software really change the
minimize the footprint for this $1.4 clothing model. This also induces fashion world? Well, data analytics
trillion global industry to pave the sustainability as consumers will can transform every characteristic
way for a better livable planet for likely wear the clothing longer as it of business if it is used in an
the future generation. is custom made. intelligent method. Yes, the fashion
supply chain will not change
After the 4th industrial revolution, MTO technology produces
overnight. But the development of
the prospect of eradicating waste virtually modified design, model
a fashion industry based on data
is seemingly on the horizon with and creates millions of design
intelligence engines really holds
the aid of software technologies. combinations samples for
the key to future sustainability.
consumers and produces only
In every season fashion brands
the selected one. Practically it
equip themselves with huge
will reduce the wasted – burned
product stocks with the typical
or end up in landfill – millions of
push model – using manual market
samples every year, as well as,
assessments and make designs
even minimize the production of
what brands want to sell, rather
unsuccessful product lines.
than what consumers wanted to buy.
Like London, UK-based PlatformE
"There are numerous points
provides the 3D customization
along the supply chain for
tools for brands including Gucci,
fashion products that are ripe
which uses the technology to
for optimization and disruption.
create customized clothing for
Given we currently live in a world
individual consumers. The cloud-
burdened with overstocking,
based solution gives fashion
perhaps the most pragmatic Figure : Made-To-Order (MTO) clothing model
brands access to a 3D digital let consumers customize their products.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 93


E x h i b i t i o n To d a y

Redress Design Award 2019 exhibit


at Fashion for Good Experience
Desk Report

Recently Fashion for Good


Experience opens a temporary
exhibition with the outfits of the
finalists of the Redress Design
Award 2019.
Redress is the world’s largest
sustainable fashion design
competition from Hong Kong.
The unique pieces of the finalists
are made by means of upcycling,
have ‘zero waste’ or have
been assembled with various
Figure 1: Redress is the world’s largest sustainable fashion design competition from Hong
reconstruction techniques. They Kong. Courtesy: Fashion for Good
are designed by international
Winner Maddie used various sustainable fabrics from Eastman
game-changers, with the aim to
upcycling and reconstruction NaiaTM into their Grand Final
transform the fashion industry.
techniques in her collection; for collections.
The exhibition was officially opened example, with the use of textile
“Curbing waste and carbon
by the founder of Redress, Christina waste, old yarn and second-hand
is critical. Waste is an urgent
Dean and Managing Director of clothing, thus coming to a zero-
concern, especially in Asia, which
Fashion for Good, Katrin Ley. The waste outfit.
is home to one of the fastest-
opening was attended by students
She is very enthusiastic about growing fashion consumer markets
from various fashion schools in
winning the Redress Design Award. and where 50 percent of the
Amsterdam such as AMFI and
Maddie Williams said, “That my world’s clothes are made. Redress
Artemis, and a small group of press,
collection will be included in a is uniquely positioned to galvanise
influencers and industry experts
commercially upcycled label will be change and to inform the public
were also present.
a great learning curve for me! I am about the dire need to make drastic
Writer and sustainable lifestyle going to make an enormous effort changes in the fashion industry,”
expert – and former Redress to ensure that sustainable, circular expressed Christina Dean.
jury member – Marieke Eyskoot principles are central to everything I
The exhibition can be seen daily
moderated the event and asked do. This is the time to tackle today’s
from the 13th of December 2019 to
Christina a few questions on environmental problems.”
13 of January 2020 in the Fashion
stage and guided the Q&A with
All outfits of this exhibit in the for Good Experience at Rokin 102
the audience. Anna Schuster
Fashion for Good Experience are in Amsterdam and entry is free.
(Germany), one of the finalists
carefully styled on mannequins
of the competition, was present
from Mannequino, the world’s first
at the event, she presented her
modular mannequin, designed for
modern looks for men, made
a circular economy.
with various techniques such as
patchwork, crocheted elements This year’s ten finalists were
and various repair techniques. from Hong Kong, India, Australia,
Canada, UK, Israel, Spain and
The Redress Design Award 2019
Germany, with each creating
received applications from 43
collections using sustainable and
different countries. The competition
circular design techniques, up-
promotes sustainable designs and
cycling widely-available waste
techniques to stimulate growth
materials, from unwanted workers’
towards a circular fashion system.
uniforms and saris to defective
First place went to Maddie Williams
camping gear and bedsheets,
(UK). The prize includes making its
and with a new educational focus
own upcycled retail collection for
on innovation in raw materials, Figure 2: Maddie Williams won Redress
REVERB, from the JNBY Group, one
the finalists also incorporated Design Award 2019. Courtesy: Redress
of China’s largest fashion houses. Design Award 2019

94 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


CSR Update

Laila Styles Ltd commences eye


care program for its workers
Staff Correspondent

Laila Styles Ltd, a concern of Laila Group has recently manufacturers in


commenced an eye care program for its workers. Bangladesh. Md. Imranur
Which is also a certified LEED GOLD factory. Rahman, Managing
Director, Laila Group has
back in 2018, Manabik Shahajya Sangstha (MSS), a
been leading the company
national level NGO in association with BGMEA took an
very successfully.
initiative to provide eye care to the garment workers.
“I feel that I am responsible
This initiative has been in operation under the eye care
for my employees. I have
project titled Industrial Sight Testing Program (ISTP).
always seen my employees
Pursuing its aim to progressively screen 2,500 workers as my extended family. And
for eye problems, the program has already screened 217 it is my utmost concern to ensure their wellbeing and
workers of which 148 are female and 69 are male. sustenance,” Md. Imranur Rahman, Managing Director,
It is pertinent to note here that the ISTP has screened Laila Group said to Textile Today.
5,321 workers from five factories since August 2018 “As a Managing Director, I am always available to
to date, distributed eye drops among 1,715 workers, my workers. I make sure I am beside them at any
given eyeglasses to 1,299 workers and identified given point of time to hear from them and especially
cataract of six workers. from the female workers. So, the exemplary working
Laila Group is one of the major garment environment prevails in my factories,” Imranur
Rahman added.

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For more information please visit jobs.textiletoday.com.bd


December 2019
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 12 l Pages 97 to 107

Innovation and
up-graded technology of
GMS Printing catching
attention of global brands

T-shirt printing business


trend: the ultimate Ginny!

November 2019
P r i n t i n g Tr e n d

T-shirt printing
business trend: the
ultimate Ginny!
Sayed Abdullah

‘This shirt was worn by Tom Cruise the T-shirt printing business facts which will shed light about
when playing the role of Maverick has always that edge to be trending T-shirt printing business:
in the movie Top Gun,’ no this is a successful career. If the
not a movie campaign! Rather an manufacturer is able to catch on Branding: With a huge number of
advertisement for the world’s most the popular or brand-new unique entities, it is really challenging to
popular clothing T-shirt. Since its trends like the above mentioned grab the attention of the target
inception T-shirt become one of one of Tom Cruise stunt. As there audience. Conveying the message
the most go-to choices for all age are countless others are in this in a progressively and easy way.
and gender and giving the wearer business, what will ensure the And the custom T-shirt can be
with so much energy, charisma, manufacturer any different? worn anytime and anyplace, and
and absolute coolness. there is always a chance that
Simple, they need to serve the individual wearing it will get
In this era of fast fashion, clothing customers with what they are noticed.
is changing every weekend and searching for. And need to make
different types of clothes come sure to come up with the unique Customer loyalty: In this fast-
and go faster than ever before. But and latest designs. And the paced world-building client loyalty
T-shirt always came on top and possibility of higher return is most usually takes a long time. But time
will grow at a CAGR of 6.0% over certain for any manufacturer. and time again it has been found
the forecast period 2017 – 2025, that the customers are happy to
according to a report. In every Let’s elaborate on some of the stay with those brands that have
twist and turn customers see new
prints with all things possible and
imaginary.

It is the T-shirt print that makes


this piece of the garment always
brand new and driving fashion
trends in the form of plain t-shirts,
personalized t-shirts, graphic
t-shirts, vintage t-shirt designs,
and long sleeve custom T-shirts.

More specifically, globally from


brands to companies, corporates
– almost all entities – use
customized messages on T-shirts.
With a ton of messages to spread
a social message to create brand
awareness.

That means in the backstage, Figure 1: T-shirt printing business has always that edge to be a successful career if the
manufacturer is able to catch on the popular or brand-new unique trends.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 99


P r i n t i n g Tr e n d

made an ultimate experience for


them.

TV series, music bands, celebrity


trends: The likes of Harry Potter,
Tom Cruise, Iron Maiden or TV
Series like FRIENDS, Stranger
Things, etc. or if the T-shirt
manufacturer have a design
software, it can help clients in
making their very own choice Figure 2: T-shirt is the go-to choice for conveying messages in a progressively and easy way.
and they can choose illustrations,
most cost-saving tactics to the T-shirt printing business will
colors, text styles, and so on
advance business. give a manufacturer the lamp
according to their taste and style.
of Aladdin! More importantly,
For creating fashion quotient: manufacturers need to find more
Boosting team spirit: To bring
nowadays people like to put options, with the goal that they
unity in the organization custom
forward a statement and to show can make an imprint in the T-shirt
messaged T-shirts play a vital
off their feeling of style. Of course, printing industry. The variety of
role and build teams within the
with custom print T-shirts. the business makes it profitable,
organizations.
and with the correct printing
With a combination of the
Comparatively cheap: Compared understanding, one can surely
new, creative designs and the
to other modes of promotion, benefit in maximum terms.
correct advertising techniques,
custom T-shirts are one of the

Novozymes launches sustainable


solutions for the textile industry
Staff Correspondent

Novozymes, a Danish company and a world leader


in biological solutions, launched Livelong® - a
sustainable solution for producing better quality
and longer-lasting clothes for plant-based fibers.
The event was jointly organized by the Embassy
of Denmark in Bangladesh and Novozymes A/S –
Denmark on 24 November at the Edge Gallery in
Dhaka, says a recent press release.
Ambassador to Denmark in Bangladesh Winnie
Estrup Petersen in her inaugural remarks said that
“Bangladesh plays a vital role in adopting sustainable
practices, especially in the textile and garments
industry. I am glad that Novozymes is a partner
Figure: Industry experts, key opinion leaders, buyers, brands and
to Bangladesh in its journey in adopting more other stakeholders participated in the event.
sustainable practices.
patterns are changing. The next generation is far
“All textile manufacturers and brands – even with
more conscious about what they are purchasing.
eco-friendly fibers -- have a hefty environmental
They are not just buying the product, they are buying
impact. Brands should seriously consider the
the experiences and they want to know which impact
opportunity of offering consumers the sustainable
their choices have on the environment.”
choice of longer-lasting garments. Because buying
clothes that last longer is one of the best and easiest The Livelong® Concept, a sustainable innovation of
things that consumers can do to make an eco- Novozymes, can address these challenges. It makes it
friendly choice,” says Ethel Fanny Laursen, Business possible for the first time to extend the life of plant-
Unit Director, Technical Industries, Novozymes. based fabrics by 20%, making the garments look
new, wash after wash. This Livelong® solution saves
Dr. Rubana Huq, President of BGMEA said, “Market is
substantial water, chemicals and energy by reducing
changing, consumers are changing, and consumption
textile waste.

100 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


P r i n t i n g Tr e n d

Garment dyeing with natural dyes is a complete


sustainable dyeing process.

Industrialization of natural
dyes is always a matter of
concern.
We at AMA has been able to
develop garment-dyeing
processes with natural dyes to
achieve sustainable textile
goals with required quality
criteria.

Processes are also developed


for rope dyeing, slasher, jigger
dyeing, natural pigment for
dyeing, hank dyeing and
coating.

SAMEET DYE-CHEM LTD.


( Exclusive Agent for AMA Herbal India)

780/19A, Basila Road, Mohammadpur, Dhaka 1207, Bangladesh


Tel: +880-2-9101209 | Cell: +8801819406234
Fax: +880-2-9611503 | W. App: +8801713303150
Email: [email protected] | Web: www.irgroupbd.com
Industry Best Practices

Innovation and up-graded technology


of GMS Printing catching attention of
global brands
FT Research Team

GMS Printing is a concern of This is the fastest, most durable screen is the most laborious
GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd and easiest industrial Direct to and time-consuming as well as
started its journey in 2000 with Garment printers in the world. That it is an additional expenditure.
all the modern facilities. The latest is the reason why world-renowned Conventionally to expose on-screen,
printing technology, digitalization Brand Bestseller (Denmark), require a positive film to solidify
is the foremost efforts to upgrade Pimkie (France), M&S (UK), Esprit the artwork area by ultraviolet (UV)
the printing section in the GMS. (Germany), Champion, Diadora, light. But if the setup of artwork,
Along with a world-class design Diesel & Kappa (Italy) are buying emulsion and light source does
studio, the group aims to increase garments from GMS Printing. not work correctly or glass of the
its order volume. Textile Today exposure unit is not clean and
Md. Ashraful Alam, General
team had a visit to see the artwork positive is not aligned
Manager, GMS Printing said Textile
digitalization progress and to get properly then the entire process will
Today, “Our honorable customers
updated in the printing industry. go in vain.
know about the innovation of GMS
Placement digital printing and up gradation of technology Only Digital Light Exposing (DLE)
machine can do this without any
defect in a short period of time.
GMS printing in-housed this
valuable machine as part of its
digitalization plan. DLE screen
imaging system images and
exposes the screen directly from
the computer to screen. The new
and efficient scrolling and Digital
Light Processing technology sets
new standards at the GMS printing
unit.
Automated AOP printed machine
Digital AOP is another initiative
and pioneering step for the group
in the way to digitalization. Many
printing factories in Bangladesh
installed new digital printing
machine but they are not able to
get adequate benefits from the
Figure 1: Digitalization is part of modernizing the printing process and GMS printing set
digital printing machine with the capacity of 400 pcs/h of garment. set up because of improper study
on machine performance. But
that can easily adapt global trends. GMS printing had enough study
Bangladesh has longtime expertise
In this regard, the digital printing and investigation before buying
in placement print but this is
machine helps us to grab those any new machine so that the
altogether done manually by screen
orders that usually we refused investment does not go futile.
printing. But screen printing is not
once because of unavailable They attend global machinery
all-time accurate and has many
technical facilities.” exhibitions and take suggestions
limitations to do a variety of print
quality. So, as part of digitalization Digital Light Exposing (DLE) from experts then purchase a
GMS printing introduced ‘Aeoon’ machine machine.
placement digital printing machine GMS has two Digital AOP
Manual exposing and preparing
with 400 pcs/h capacity. machines one established in

102 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12



Our honorable
customers know
about the innovation
of GMS and up
gradation of
technology that
can easily adapt Figure 2: GMS printing is equipped with world-class digital all-over printing machines
that can produce 600 dpi 460 sqm/h, 1200 kg per day
global trends. In this
understand new technologies and and time-consuming if we take
regard, the digital their outcome.” outside support but the in-housed
printing machine Photo coating chemical, exposing
facilities make things easy to
helps us to grab AOP
develop new design and print
for the customer. Because each
those orders that For allover screen expose GMS season buyer needs new design
usually we refused introduced Luscher Blue Diod and print on the fabric so that
which is one of the best machines
once because in the world that uses long-lasting,
they can select the correct print
and place order,” said Head of Unit
of unavailable state-of-the-art laser diodes Exposing AOP.
technical facilities. to cut off the time to produce
Training on digital printing
high-quality rotary screens with
Md. Ashraful Alam a maximum length of 3500 mm. Many companies invest in digital
The laser diodes allow tremendous transformation and capabilities
General Manager time savings since they expose believing that they are going to
GMS Printing screens at a higher resolution receive responses from the new
and up to their times faster than customer realities in a digital
with today’s inkjet liquid wax economy. But without adequate
technologies. Luscher Blue Diod's knowledge and experience, no
2016 and the other has been overall screen making process is company is not able to pick up
just set up a couple of months cheaper and more efficient. benefits from the latest and digital
ago. Automated AOP printed technologies. So before setting
“Exposing AOP is hugely costly
machine, DURST Alpha-330
series and sublimation define a
new generation of Digital AOP
printing systems, creating a new
performance class through the
integration of new technologies in
the print heads, inks, drying units,
and in the interaction with the
software. This is a new generation
of super multi-pass inkjet printers
for the digital production of home
textiles and fashion. The Alpha
series offers print widths of 190
& 330 cm and can be configured
with up to 8 colors.
Md. Ashraful Alam, said, “Our
careful investment and purchasing
machine with relevant study help
us to select the right machine for
the right production. We visit and
attend international seminars to Figure 3: Md. Ashraful Alam, General Manager, GMS Printing showing the various printed
products in the print studio.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 103


Industry Best Practices

up the digital machine it needs to


build strong expertise in digital
technologies. Otherwise, the
company may feel downcast when
the returns are not quite as well as
expected.
In this regard, GMS provides
training for its employee those
are working in digital technology.
Because in the digital printing
‘Profiling’ is the most important
matter to get accurate color
and design. The color profile
Figure 4: GMS Printing established in-housed printing test lab to ensure the highest quality.
describes the colors that relative
to a standardized set of reference international seminars. delivered,” said the Lab Manager
colors. Color-managed software at GMS printing.
Digital lab for accuracy in the
standardized profiles translate
bulk Quality and accuracy are the
color from one device to another.
first priority in the GMS digital
This is usually performed by a GMS printing established a digital
printing. Furthermore, fast service,
color management module (CMM). printing lab to ensure quality
understanding and a positive
as well as to keep the relevant
GMS arranges training program mindset about new technology
data for the future record. The
for the technical people who are and process adoption are the key
lab performs batch to batch lab
working in digital printing regularly. focus area for them. Because they
tests and provide the result to the
To train the technical people in know there is no other technology
concern if any quality fault has
digital printing sometimes some that combines brilliant colors,
been made.
foreign experts (Supplier base) wonderful designs, and production
come to GMS and give them “We do each batch test to ensure on-demand with low resource
necessary training. The company the quality and make sure that utilization other than digital
also arranges foreign trips to attend the correct product has been printing.

Screen Print Welfare Association (SPWA)


organized annual get-together event
Shariful Islam Arvi

Screen Print Welfare Association (SPWA) organized


its annual get-together event on 16th December 2019
at The Home and Garden Picnic Spot. Moynartak,
Uttarkhan, Uttara, Dhaka.
General Secretary of SPWA, Md. Saiful Islam hosted
the event where 1500 participants from 63 factories
like Fakir Fashion, Fakir apparels, Giant group, DBL
group, Epyllion Group, Masco printing, Mondol group,
Palmal group, Robin Tex and other reputed factories
were present.
The day-long get-together event was designed with
a quiz and various competitions for the participants Figure 1: The day-long get-together event was designed with
to make the day happy and enjoyable. various competitions for the participants.

Screen Print Welfare Association is a non- with 1748 factory involvement and made 151,230
government, non-profit and non-political corporate deals by now.
organization established in 2015 to serve the screen-
The current market size of the printing industry
printing community in Bangladesh.
worth is more than $353.53 million and of these,
This organization is also organizing a get-together $17.64 million are export-oriented. Bangladesh
program with screen print workers outside the exports printing products to countries like the USA,
members. SPWA has 4243 registered members Australia, Sri Lanka and Pakistan.

104 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


3D Printing

3D-printing textile fo
r
sustainable future
Desk Report

Sustainable fashion
google search achieves a 4% produ
gets about 305,000 ct return rate
,000 results compared to the 25 design, share and pri
as more and more co -50% average. nt our own
nsumers, clothes directly from
businesses, organiza “The fashion industry home?”
tions getting must
aware of it and dema finally rethink,” said Beyond zero wastage
nding more Fleischer in , 3D printing
to be done. a statement. “The suc eliminates many lab
cess of our or- intensive
Kickstarter campaig processes from the
According to a study n shows that co mp lete
by the consumers are ready apparel manufactur
British charity Barna for this. ing cy cle,
do’s in 2015 Sustainability is not reducing the labor co
showed that annually a choice. sts .
consumers We need to change
are buying 80 billio the negative 3D printing in textile
n apparel items s is still at a
and on average worn impact of our consu co nceptual stage. One
seven times mp tio n on promising
before getting tossed the environment as avenue in this field is
. This depicts qu ick ly as co mbining
the calamity of the possible, but this ca 3D printed panels wi
fast-fashion n only happen th the
scenario. if all manufacturers traditional textiles. Th
rethink and run e adhesion
their production lines of these 3D printed pa
One of the newest ad in a more nels to the
dition is environmentally frie garment, although it
eliminating fabric wa ndly way,” said needs to be
ste during Co-Founder Jess Fle worked upon by fin
fabric manufacturing ischer. e-tuning of the
with 3D All its men’s outerwe pri nting parameters.
textile printing. A Da ar is made to
nish company order from sustaina
Son of a Tailor is elim ble materials Ultimately, it all come
inating fabric s down to
waste is 3D textile pri with zero stock inven the consumers, if their mi
nting. The tor y. ndset
company recently co European workers pu towards hand-me-d
mpleted a t the ow ns and
Kickstarter campaig garments together seconds do not chan
n for their 3D un de r fai r ge the n
merino wool pullove working conditions, sustainably produce
rs for men, me eti ng mo re d clo ths will
amassing 400 orders of the fashion revolu also end up in landfi
in the first 24 for tio n’s go als lls. Vo gu e
hours and reaching sustainable fashion. Editor-In-Chief Anna
their $15,000 Wintour
target in under 40 mi Wi th urg es people to value the
nutes. 3D pri nti ng , there is no raw clothes
ma ter they have and pass
Its simple pullovers ial wa sta ge as it uses as the m on .
reduce fabric much raw material as
wasted in the cuttin required to “I thi nk for all of us it means
g process from print, which means
21% to less than 1%, elim attention more on cra
producing a ina tin g the ft, on
garment that is made need for additional creativity and less on
to last from raw ma ter ial, the idea
one piece with no sea and can print the exa of clothes that are ins
ms and ct siz e of the tan tly
reinforced edging. panel for each garm disposable, things tha
ent. t you will
A pro thr ow away just after on
Son of a Tailor used mi ne nt 3D Printed Fashion e reading,”
an algorithm De said Anna Wintour.
based on data gathe sig ne r Da nit Peleg explained,
red from “Just imagine the po
30,000 men globally tential… If Overall, it might still
to create take a few
avatars and custom yo u’r e co ld, pri nt your own jacket. ye ars or even a decade
design to reach
garments from custo Traveling with no lug full-fledged 3D printi
mers’ weight, ga ge ? Ju st ng textile
height, age and sho print your clothes in industry, but 3D printi
e size. This the ho tel ng has the
room. Will we soon potential to change
be able to the business
altogether.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 105


E v e n t To d a y

Digital Textile Printin g


Conference 4.0
Desk Report

The global digital textile machine with digitally-printed textiles. The Future of Textile Color
• 
market is expected to reach $392.3 Management—Jeremy Pilcher of HP.
“I’m tremendously proud of SGIA’s
million by 2025, with a CAGR of
and AATCC’s ongoing collaboration • Applying Ink Technology to the
10.4% from 2018 to 2025. Dyeing
in digital textile printing!” said Development of Pigment Inks
industry causing mass pollution
AATCC President Kerry King, for Digital Textile Printing—Eric
and it’s losing its sustainability.
Senior Vice President, Research & Beyeler of DuPont.
The World Bank estimates that 17
Development, Spoonflower, also a
to 20 percent of industrial water • 
Software and Digital Workflow for
member of SGIA’s Digital Textile and
pollution comes from textile High-Speed Single-Pass Textile
Décor Committee.
dyeing and the after-treatment Production—Lou Prestia of EFI.
provided to the fabric. Some of the biggest names in
• Current State of Technology:
Summarized by all the speakers.
Day Two
• Advantages of Laser Cutting
workflow for on-demand Digital
Textile Printing and Finishing—
Jim Manelski of Summa.
• Sustainability in Textile Printing—
Jason Fannin of Sensient.
• Brand Adoption of Digital Print
Technologies: Challenges and
Opportunities—Meagan Tyler of
Colosseum.
72 toxic chemicals have been
the industry were included in the • The Micro-Factory: A Domestic
identified in water solely from textile
programming, covering topics: Manufacturing Strategy—Kristin
dyeing, 30 of which cannot be
Day one Ritter of Gerber Technology.
removed. H&M one of the leading
brands of the apparel industry • Digital Fabric Printing by Ron • Transforming Designs from the
doesn’t accept any product if the Gilboa, Director of InfoTrends. Past for Today’s Digital Printing—
product consumes more than Kathy Phillips of Springs Creative
• Pre-Coating of Textiles for
60-liter water for 1 kg of fabric. Products Group LLC.
Digital Printing by Roland
In this situation the digital textile Zimmer of Zimmer Austria. • Real World Use and Technology
industry taking its place over- Integration Pane: Summarized
• End-to-End and In-between:
dyeing industry. AATCC (American by all the speakers.
A Multi-dimensional View of
Association of Textile Chemists
Building a Reliable Digital Increasing fashion awareness,
and Colorists) and SGIA (Specialty
Printing Workflow, from Design increasing creativity and design
Graphic Imaging Association)
to Manufacture by Mike Scrutton flexibility and sustainable and
participated in Digital Textile
of Adobe, Dustin Bowersox of environmentally friendly printing
Printing Conference 4.0, a two-day
Datacolor, Tim Williams of Color methods facilitate the growth of the
event that provided participants
Solutions International. global digital textile machine market.
with an understanding and
inspiration from 11-12 December in “Pixel to Output” – Managing Data
•  There are tremendous
Sheraton Imperial Hotel, Durham, from the Source File to Printed opportunities in digital textile
North Carolina, USA. Fabric—Mike Syverson of Durst. printing, and even as new types
of applications are opened up by
The program featured some of the • Color Lifecycle Management:
digital technologies, there is little
best-known and most respected A Holistic Approach to Color
doubt that many traditional textile
experts in the industry, presenting Management of Digitally Printed
applications will shift to digital.
the essentials for those involved Textiles—Julian Mussi of DeSL.

106 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


E v e n t To d a y

ZDHC organizes conference for


domestic apparel brands in Mumbai
Desk Report

ZDHC South Asia Region had


a successful conference on
‘Anchoring the ZDHC Program in
the domestic apparel industry’ in
Mumbai on 10th Dec 2019. The
Indian apparel and textile industry
is rapidly growing its footprint
and almost 60% of India’s textile
production is consumed for the
domestic population.
The conference was organized
to engage the Indian apparel
and textile players for the ZDHC
initiative and create awareness and
commitment for safer chemical
management practices in textile
production.
Over 200 delegates from local Figure 1: Key figures of the industry participated at the event.

and global brands, textile,


Other presentations included 1. The Indian apparel industry is
chemical companies and service
success stories in chemical at an 'early stage' in terms of
providers came together to
management from Hohenstein, sustainability and building a
share experiences and exchange
Lanxess and Nahar Group. sustainable supply chain (This
information on sustainable
There was also a presentation is an opportunity to do better
chemical management practices
on ‘Product Safety norms and things!)
and challenges.
consumer redressal systems for
2. Leading apparel brands have
The keynote presentation was the Indian consumer’.
realized the need to adopt
from Adam Brennan of C&A,
The key learnings from the sustainable chemical practices in
who shared C&A’s journey from
presentations and panel the industry and are taking baby
commitment to impact for safer
discussions were: steps in this direction
chemical management in their
supply chains. Panel discussions 3. The bulk of the Indian chemical
included topics such as: industry is quite aware of
chemical restrictions and
• Leveraging sustainability
leading companies are ready
for growth and competitive
to invest in R&D and marketing
advantage in the fashion
activities to develop sustainable
industry (panelists were from
products, but need support
Indian brands such as Lifestyle,
from apparel brands.
Arvind, Liva and Aditya Birla)
4. The Indian consumer is
• Challenges and opportunities
woefully bereft of product
in the chemical management
safety redressal mechanisms,
landscape: perspectives of
but the Consumer Protection
different stakeholders (panelists
Act of August 2019 passed by
were from Puma, Anugraha
Parliament provides a ray of
Fashion, Texport Syndicate,
hope. ZDHC will proactively
bluesign® and Huntsman)
engage Indian apparel brands
• How can the chemical industry in the ZDHC Program and
provide sustainable products? support them in their journey for
Figure 2: Prasad Pant, Director- South Asia
(Panelists were from Rossari, at ZDHC Foundation – Roadmap to Zero
sustainable chemistry.
DyStar, Jay, Colourtex and Resil) Programme speaking at the program.

108 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


E v e n t To d a y

ZDHC advances textile industry towards


sustainable chemical management
In order to engage the textile and leather industry in the South Asia Region, ZDHC will
organize a one -day conference on ‘Leading transformation through sustainable chemical
management’ at the Radisson Blue Hotel in Dhaka on 12 February 2020.
Prasad Pant, Director- South Asia at ZDHC Foundation - Roadmap to Zero Programme

The global apparel and textile One of the biggest challenges in advances the industry towards
trade is expected to grow at textile processing is the use and zero discharge of hazardous
a pace of 3.7% CAGR over the discharge of huge amounts of chemicals. ZDHC is a holistic
next 10 years and will touch USD chemicals in the polluting effluent approach to sustainable chemical
1176 billion by 2028. (Source: ITC and hazardous solid waste that management and supports the
Trademap, Technopak Advisors) may not be managed responsibly industry with practical solutions
by textile producers. and services. More information can
While we are focused on growth,
be had at www.roadmaptozero.
it is imperative to understand the The modern consumers are
com
impact-such growth will have on more cautious about how their
our environment, climate change, buying practices are impacting In order to engage the textile
biodiversity and worker/consumer the environment and is moving and leather industry in the South
health. Because textile and leather towards brands offering eco- Asia Region, ZDHC is going to
production are known to be as the friendly and sustainable fashion. organize a one -day conference at
big polluting industries. the Radisson Blue Hotel in Dhaka
The ZDHC ‘Roadmap to Zero’
on 12 February 2020 with the
More than 25% of the chemicals Program is a pioneering
theme ‘Leading transformation
produced in the world are used collaborative effort to implement
through sustainable chemical
in textile production at some sustainable chemistry and
management’.
stage. A lot of these chemicals environmental best practices in
have a negative impact on human the textile and leather industry. It is The aim is to provide not only
health and the environment. But a multi-stakeholder initiative within an insight into safer chemical
manufacturers are still used in our the fashion and footwear industry management practices but also
industry due to: to ensure consumer, worker and share experiences and success
environmental protection through stories from organizations that
• lack of knowledge
the safe use and discharge of have made substantial progress in
• cheap prices as compared to chemicals in the value chains of their journey towards sustainable
safer alternatives the Signatory Brands. supply chains. The conference will
• lack of regulation and have a mix of panel discussions
Through collaborative
enforcement and presentations from eminent
engagement, standard-setting
speakers.
and large- scale adoption, ZDHC

Certificate on Dyehouse Management

Managing Dyehouses Towards Zero

Accredited By: Implemented By: Supported By Knowledge Partner Factory Partner

Transforming Human Capital

Contact: 01734 211 085


Visit : training.textiletoday.com.bd
C o r p o r a t i o n To d a y

EuroMac joins hands with


Antrix Solution Ltd for business
expansion in Bangladesh market
Staff Correspondent

China-based automated sewing machine a better performance from the machine. So, I will
manufacturer EuroMac and Antrix Solution Ltd request they should come forward with better
extended their hands for joint business expansion in innovation for the Bangladesh market.”
the Bangladesh market. In this regard, they signed
Helal Uddin Ahmed, Managing Director, Fashion Flash
a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) on 19
Ltd, said, “Automation in sewing production is present
December 2019 at Hotel Sarina, Banani, Dhaka 1213.
demand to enhance productivity and reducing overall
Syed Mehedi Al Reza, Chairman, Antrix Solution Ltd and cost. But the manufacturer of automatic sewing
Henry Jiang, General Manager, EuroMac signed the MoU machinery should provide long-time service as well
respectively on behalf of the two organizations. replacement guarantee.”
“EuroMac is a name for a sewing machine that can
deliver the highest level of efficiency. We use this
machine and found overall performance is good,” he
added further.
A number of RMG factory owners, high officials
and representatives of different organizations were
present in the ceremony.
Antrix Solution provides technical support of
an expansive industrial sewing machines with/
without automation, fire detection/door/hydrant
system, apparel CAD system with plotting, cutting
and spreading solutions, time attendance and
access control devices, enterprise software, CCTV
Figure: EuroMac and Antrix Solution Ltd extended their hands for
joint business expansion in the Bangladesh market. surveillance systems, industrial racking system, online
UPS, IP PABX and LED lightings.
Aminur Rasheed Arshad, Managing Director; Md. Al On the other hand, EuroMac is an automated sewing
Amin, Deputy Managing Director, Antrix solution Ltd machine manufacturer based in China. They are
and H Murat Yurdakul, Global Sales Manager, EuroMac producing sewing machinery with modernization and
were present in the program. supplying them through the world. They started their
Syed Mehedi Al Reza said, “Antrix started its journey in journey in the Bangladesh market in 2017 and had a
2015 and since the inception, it has the vision to offer a big market grab.
best-automated solution for the Bangladesh RMG sector.
So, by today’s signing ceremony between EuroMac and
Antrix Solution Ltd the dream has come true. We hope
our hand by hand journey for the RMG sector will be
additional support in the way of automation.”
In a separate presentation, Henry Jiang showed the
audience what upcoming new technology and automated
sewing machinery offered by EuroMac that can be the
best solution for Bangladesh garment manufacturers to
be effective and efficient in the sewing line.
Mahmud Rafi, Director Mahmud Denims Ltd, said
in his open speech, “We use EuroMac and getting

110 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


APS Group becomes 1st flagship
company of PEOPLE project
Special Correspondent

Textile Today has come out APS Group and Textile Today will to make organization self–reliant
with a courageous initiative work together for organizational and sustainable. It aims to increase
‘PEOPLE project’, a human capital development to face the current profitability of the organization
transformation program, aiming and future challenges of textile by increasing performance of
to attain ‘Profitable and Effective Industry. mid-level management through
Organization through People building ‘Effective Organization’,”
Md. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS
Leadership and Excellence’. he added.
Group; Md. Zahiduzzaman Saim,
APS Group has become the first
Director, APS Group; Md. Eousup Md. Shamim Reza, Managing
Flagship Company of the PEOPLE
Novee GM-HR and Strategy, Director, APS Group said, “Besides
project by signing a memorandum
PEOPLE Project (People, Process all the production departments
of understanding (MoU) with
& Profit); Sanjoy Kumar Saha, of any organization the textile
Bangladesh Textile Today.
Manager Industry Engagement, industry should focus on the
The MoU has been signed on 29 Bangladesh Textile Today; management system to build
December, 2019 at APS Group Abdullah Al Nomaan, Manager, an effective organization in this
Office Premise where A.S.M IPE, Bangladesh Textile Today also critical juncture. As the total textile
Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO, attended in the signing ceremony. industry of Bangladesh is facing
Bangladesh Textile Today and Md. many challenges at this moment
“Today profitability has become
Shamim Reza, Managing Director, APS Group has joined with the
the vital issue, most of the textile
APS Group signed the MoU PEOPLE project of Textile Today to
and apparel factories are running
respectively on behalf of the two set a unique example of building
with poor capacity utilization as
organizations. an ‘Effective organization’. We
well,” said Tareq Amin.
will give full support to make the
People are at the center of any
“Huge number of people are project truly successful.”
organization, system and process.
working in the sector are always
Textile and Apparel industry is now By implementing different PEOPLE
looking for better return for
undergoing at the crucial ‘maturity project components e.g. 5+1 S, 7
better life. There have been many
to declining point’. A conscious Wastes, KAIZEN and TQM tools,
initiatives to improve productivity
industry transformation is required BKPI APS Group will be able to
but most of those initiatives didn’t
to take this sector in a new height. generate Human Capital Statement
last long due to the absence of
and visualize organization strength
PEOPLE is an innovative action effective organization within
and weakness.
program to make organization the companies. There are hardly
self-reliant and sustainable. It any mechanisms of knowledge By joining the PEOPLE project of
aims to increase profitability generation and management Textile Today, APS group has set a
by increasing performance of within the factories,” he said. unique example and become the
mid-level management through first flagship company to build
“PEOPLE is an innovative action
building ‘Effective Organization’. ‘Effective Organization’ in this dire
program initiated by Textile Today
stage of textile industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12 111


TTH Update

TTH 2019-20 to create


‘Transformation Leaders’ to set
‘Transformation Blueprint’ for
textile and apparel industry
Staff Correspondent

After the successful completion to develop the ‘Practically Tested the two-campus day competition
of the 6th season of Textile Talent Transformation Model’. and among them 10 students from
Hunt, Textile Today has already NITER Zone and 15 students from
started the new season of Textile Textile Today Training already BUFT zone have been selected
Talent Hunt 2019-20 with a declared BDT 30 Lacs scholarship for national level. The top 5
new completion flow to create for these 100 Transformation competitors from each university
Transformation Leaders who will Leaders (TLs) to groom TLs. were honored by 10000 BDT as
be able to play a vital role to carry prize money.
Among the 10 different zones all
the Textile Industry of Bangladesh
around Bangladesh 1st Campus Prof. Dr. Mohammed Mizanur
to the next phase facing the
Day Competition (CDC) completed Rahman, Principal NITER was
upcoming challenges.
at the National Institute of present as Chief Guest at the
According to the new competition Textile Engineering and Research 2nd Campus Day Competition
flow Campus Day Competition (NITER), Nayarhat, Saver, Dhaka while Major. Rtd. Sohel Ahmed,
(CDC) of Textile Talent Hunt on 30 November 2019 and the GM (HR, Admin and Compliance),
2019-20 will be arranged in a 2nd Campus Day Competition 4 A yarn Dyeing Ltd (Team
total of 10 different zones to get of TTH Dhaka City North (BUFT) Group); Rezwanur Rahman,
100 transformation leaders for Zone held on 11 December 2019 at Director, Dysin and Shakawat
National Level Competition. These BGMEA University of Fashion and representative from Hong Kong
100 Transformation Leaders (TLs) Technology (BUFT). Nicca Chemical Ltd were present
will be trained, groomed and as a special guest. Shafiur Rahman,
Total 354 students from these
tagged with about 50 companies Regional Operations Manager
two reputed organization joined

Figure 1: Participants of the 1st Campus Day Competition (CDC) at TTH Saver {NITER} Zone.

112 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


TTH Update

moderator at both the Campus


Day Competition.

Textile Talent Hunt is an initiative


of Bangladesh Textile Today
which is the first ever talent
grooming competition for the
all undergrad students studying
in textile garments, fashion and
other departments in different
universities.

Through this new completion flow


of Textile Talent Hunt Textile Today
will engage 100 Transformation
Figure 2: Transformation Leaders of TTH Dhaka City North (BUFT) zone who were leaders to different industries
selected for national level competition. under the supervision of experts
from Industry and Academy.
of G-Star Raw, was present as a Chem Ltd and Reduanal Islam,
Transformation Icon. Asst. Manager (Marketing and 100 ‘Transformation Teams’ having
Brand), Well Food were present as 1 Industry Expert, 1 Industry
On the other hand , Md. Special Guest at the 2nd Campus Supervisor, 1 Academic Researcher
Rafiquzzaman, Registrar, BGMEA Day Competition. and 1 young Transformation
University of Fashion and Leader (selected from CDC
Technology (BUFT) attended as At BUFT zone CDC Syful Alam competition of TTH) in different
Chief Guest while Biswajit Banik, Mallick, Compliance Manager, industries for several months to
Senior Country Manager, Hong South Asia was present as set ‘Transformation Blueprint’ for
Kong Nicca Chemical Ltd, Dhaka Transformation Icon. A.S.M textile and apparel industry in this
Liaison Office, Syed Iqbal Rizvi, Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO critical juncture.
Managing Director, Sameet Dye- of Textile Today was present as
Figure: Champion, 1st and 2nd runner up- Team Eco Solution, Team Green-BD and Team Mads- respectively were with judges panel and other guests.

Hult Prize 2020 held at


BUTEX and NITER
BTT Correspondent

The grand finale of the Hult BUTEX and NITER is such initiative. ARCHROMA, Dr. Abbas Uddin Shiyak,
Prize 2020 held at Bangladesh Assistant Professor of Department
200 teams at BUTEX participated
University of Textiles (BUTEX) of Dyes and Chemical Engineering,
in the online round by submitting
and National Institute of Textile BUTEX and Kawshar Ahmed,
their plans; from those teams, only
Engineering and Research (NITER) Founder and CEO of JoomShaper
21 were selected based on the
respectively on 7 December were the Special Guests.
lucidity of their ideas. After the
and 9th December 2019. Team
semi-final round, the best 6 teams At NITER campus, Team Game
Eco Solution came out as
were chosen for the grand finale Changer was selected as champion
the Champion with their self-
by assessing their presentation and the Eco Warriors and Zytrav
developed bio poly-film to replace
to achieve the honorable title of holding top respectively first and
one-time use polythene at BUTEX,
‘Campus Champion’. second runners up positions.
whereas Team Game Changer won
the championship at NITER. In the final round, Team Eco The finalist teams were all awarded
Solution came out as the with a prestigious certificate of
Hult Prize, also known as the
Champion. Team Green-BD and the Hult where the top 3 teams
Nobel prize for students, was
Team Mads came out as the 1st received special crests for their
established by Bertil Hult, which
and 2nd runner up respectively. marvelous effort.
brings up ideas from university
students after challenging them Jamal Naser, Director, Operations The organizers also received
to solve a burning social issue of Shasha Denim Ltd; Mahbub certificates of honor for their
each year. In order to assist the Milton, Executive Director of relentless work which made the
winning team, the Hult family Masco Industries Ltd; Saiful Islam, program a grand success.
donates one million dollars. This Managing Director of Essential
This year’s Hult Prize at BUTEX’s
prize is a partnership between Hult Clothing; Sarwar Morshed,
title sponsor was ARCHROMA
International Business School and Regional Director of G-Locs and
Bangladesh Ltd., snacks partner
the United Nations Foundation. Abu Sadat Chowdhury, Head,
was Ahmed Foods Ltd., magazine
Relationship Unit of Large Corp,
Universities all over the world run partner was Textile Today, T-shirt
Brac Bank Ltd were present as the
internal competitions to pre-qualify sponsor was Huntsman and Media
judges at BUTEX Hult Prize 2020.
teams, which they send into the Partners were Somoy TV, Samakal
main competition. Campus round at Syed Ismail, Head, Marketing Radio Dhoni and Textile Today.
and Business Development of

114 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 12, Issue 12


Welcome on Board!
New Textile Today Corporate Members
Textile Today congratulates and wlecomes it's newly joined Corporate Members. Corporate Members get
Textile Today services in privileged scheme. All key services namely Textile Today Magazine, Website,
Textile Today Training, Textile Today Events, Textile Today Jobs and Textile Today Classifieds everything
have been brought into one package under the Corporate Membership Schemes.
More details: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/corporate-members

Premium Corporate Member


Essential Clothing Limited
Essential Clothing Limited: Established in 2014
Location: Akulichala, Sakashor, Maddha Para, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh.
Production Capacity: All types of Knit garments- 500,000 pcs / month, Print-
ing 300000 pieces/month. Total Jersey production lines- 14
Production Range: Knit wear – T-shirt, Polo shirt, PJ set, ladies dress, leggings, jogger, fleece hoody,
nightwear, maternity items, sweat shirt, baby romper, baby suit.
Total Employee: 950
Major Customers: Tesco, Topman, Shop Direct, Just Group, Reitman, P & C, Zalando, Bonprix, La-halle
Major compliance certifications: BSCI, SMETA, WCA, ACCORD, ICS, GOTS, OEKOTEX, BCI, LENZING
Head Office: House#27(1st Floor), Road#3, Sector#5, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh.
Saiful Islam Khan
Email: [email protected]; Phone: +88-02-8932427, +880-2-8932425
Managing Director
Essential Clothing LTD Website: http://www.essential-clothing.com/

Corporate Member
Interlink Dresses
Interlink Dresses: Established in 2009
Location: Joydebpur, Gazipur, BD
Production Capacity: 210,000 Pcs/
Month (155,000 for trousers and
55,000 for blazers): Total Jersey
production lines- 11
Production Range: Casual trousers,
formal suits and casual blazer for men, Md. Imranur Rahman,
ladies and children Managing Director
Total Employee: 1998 Laila Group.
Major Customers: Raymond, David
Jones, TWINHILL, Harvey Parker, Laila Styles Limited
Country Road, Park Line Way, Park
Avenue, Marie Claire, Michael Brandon, Laila Styles Limited: Established in 2018.
Skopes, Pizza Italia, BALLIN Celio, Location: Bahadurpur, Sikderbari, Gazipur, Bangladesh.
DEBANHAMS, Peter England, DAVID Production Capacity: Currently 800,000 pcs / month in
LUKE running 21 lineswill be 1.3 Million pcs / month with 35 lines.
A.K.M Saifur Major Compliance Certifications: Production Range: Woven bottom and tops (Men’s, Women’s
Rahman Farhad SEDEX, GSV (CTPAT) and Children).
Head of Head Office: Zafaria, Apt. No. C-2, Total Employee: Currently manpower 3,250 for 21 lines.
Merchandising House No. 5, Road No.34, Gulshan-1, Major Customers: H&M, Matalan, JC Penney, Walmart, Tommy
and Marketing of Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Nautica.
Interlink Dresses Email: [email protected] Major Compliance Certifications: LEED GOLD by USGBC, SMETA,
Mobile : 01713 015997, 01711 537675 WRAP, ACCORD, GOTS, GRS, RCS, OCS, OEKOTEX and SCAN.
Website: http://www.interlink-bd.com Head Office: Giant Business Tower (GBT), Jashimuddin
Avenue, Uttara C/A, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh.
Email: [email protected]; Mobile: +8801770553356
Website: http://www.lailagroupbd.com/
Do you want to share
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