Fall 2012

Sewing Solutions
Tips and Techniques for the Savvy Sewist
by Nicole vasbinder

Even the best sewists will encounter problems, snags, and little
glitches in their work. Expert sewist Nicole Vasbinder’s Sewing
Solutions is an indispensable reference filled with invaluable
advice.

Organized by stages, you’ll find:

• Detailed advice for the sewing process, including pros and
cons, and basic considerations of working in each step.
• An easy-to-follow layout providing basic information as well
as step-by-step techniques for making bias tape, sewing
trims, buttonholes, zippers, hems, and more.
• Easy-to-navigate color-coded cross-references available for
quick referencing.
• Troubleshooting tips that advise how to deal with every
sewing situation.

Whether choosing the right tools, reading patterns correctly,

or everything in between, Sewing Solutions will prove to be an
essential sewing companion.

Nicole Vasbinder owns and operates StitchCraft and an indepen-

dent accessory line Queen Puff Puff. A founding teacher of Stitch
Lounge in San Francisco, she currently teaches at Stonemountain
and Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley. Her designs have been featured
in the Wall Street Journal, Adorn Magazine, JoAnn Magazine, Venus
Zine and Craft. She lives in Petaluma, California.

ISBN: 978-1-59668-598-7 Page Count: 192

Format: Flexibound Trim Size: 5¾ × 8¼
US Price: $19.95 Release Date: December
Canada: $19.95 Season: Fall 2012
Interweave books are sold and distributed to the book trade by Perseus distribution in the U.S. and Canada.
(800) 343-4499 | [email protected]
Sewing Solutions

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT: NOTIONS AND TRIMS

Bias Tape Rickrack

SECTION TWO

Solutions
FACTS FACTS

What it is
Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on What it is
the bias or cross-grain to make it more stretchable than
fabric that is cut on the grain. It is used to make piping,
binding seams, and to finish raw edges. Many strips can be
pieced together to form a long tape. Bias tape widths can
Also called ric rac or rick-rack, rickrack is made by braiding
thread into a flat zigzag shaped tape, it is used as trim on
clothes and curtains. Typically, rickrack is made from
polyester and from a single color, and it has a dull or
& Tricks
vary from about ½” to about 3” depending on what it is matte finish. Rickrack can also be metallic, glossy, or
being used for. variegated with strips or gradations of color. Some
see p.143: What is cross grain? manufacturers add decorative details with embroidery or
paint to make rickrack more colorful. CHAPTER 5
Most commonly seen on FABRIC SOLUTIONS 80
Aside from piping, binding, and finishing raw edges, bias tape is Most commonly seen on
most commonly seen on edges of quilts, placemats, bibs, as Rickrack is often used on quilts and curtains, but it’s CHAPTER 6
dress or bag straps, and around armholes and necklines. flexible enough to be used for almost any project your PATTERN SOLUTIONS 94
Q. Can you make bias tape? imagination suggests. You can attach it along the hem of an Q. Can you make rickrack?
Types of bias tape A. Yes, it’s possible to make these at item, apply it as a top trim or insert half way into a seam to A. Yes, the simplest options are CHAPTER 7
Commercially available bias tape is usually of three types: home using bias tape makers, create a scalloped edge. to knit or crochet with fine SEWING SOLUTIONS 120
simple, single-fold, and double-fold bias tape. which come in a range of sizes. needles using thread that can hold
see p.73: Bias tape makers Where to get it its shape. CHAPTER 8
Where to get it Most craft and fabric stores sell rickrack, usually in an EMBELLISHMENT AND
Most fabric stores stock bias tape. Store bought bias tape assortment of colors and patterns to meet crafting Q. How to apply rickrack? TRIMMING SOLUTIONS 138
comes in a variety of widths and a huge range of colors, but Q. Why use bias strips? needs. In some cases, the material is available by the yard, A. Rickrack is usally applied by hand
the majority of these are solid rather than patterned.every A. Most woven fabrics (unless they allowing crafters to select as much as they need. Other using thread that matches the item CHAPTER 9
crafter should knowHomemade bias tape is great if you have a bit of spandex blended stores sell rickrack in prepackaged lengths, which can result being decorated. If you’re not FITTING SOLUTIONS 162
want a patterned bias to match the fabric used in your in) have no stretch. But if you tug in an excess of unused rickrack. much for hand sewing, it can also
project. It’s also so simple to make that most crafters prefer a piece of woven fabric along the be straight stitched through the CHAPTER 10
to use their own rather than store bought! bias, the fabric will give a little bit. Every crafter should know middle by machine, or if the item FINISHING SOLUTIONS 174
see p.142: Making bias tape It’s not that it “stretches” but it has Other thread, such as silk or cotton, may be used, but the you’re making won’t be washed,
some “ease” to it. Tape made from resulting rickrack may be more expensive. simply glue on the rickrack.
bias-cut fabric forms around see p.150: Sewing on
curves much more easily, without trims
causing fabric to pucker.

SEE ALSO SEE ALSO

p.73: Section One: Chapter 4: Bias tape makers p.150: Section Two: Chapter 8: Sewing on trims
p.142: Section Two: Chapter 8: Making bias tape
p.143: Section Two: Chapter 8: What is cross grain?

44 45 78 79

SOLUTIONS AND TRICKS: FABRIC SOLUTIONS FIBER CONTENT OF FABRICS SOLUTIONS AND TRICKS: EMBELLISHMENT AND TRIMMING SOLUTIONS MAKING BIAS TAPE

Determining the Bias Tape

Use the burn test to identify the fiber content of a mystery fabric.
This will help to sew, press, and care better for your project. Clip off
a 3” length of yarn or fabric, hold one end with sturdy metal tongs Making bias tape: Method 1
fiber content
and light one end of the sample. Observe the sample for the results
listed here to determine the fiber content.

YOU WILL NEED 1 5 bias bias If you need to make your

First decide how wide your strips should be. If you are cut edge cut edge triangle even smaller still, cut FABRIC TIPS
making single fold bias tape, you want your strips to be twice along the bias fold you have Q. What is a cross grain?
Does not burn BURNS the width of your final tape minus 1/8” (so for 1/2” single fold created. A. Looking at the fabric diagram
bias tape, you need 7/8” wide strips). For double fold bias tape on the far left, one edge is
you want your strips four times the width of your final tape the cut edge (where it was
minus 1/8”.
selvage

bias
GLASS, cut edge
Then fold the triangle in half cut from the big bolt at the
Not self
ASBESTOS, Self extinguishing again. fabric shop) and the other
extinguishing
METAL
The bias edge is the Selvage. Both
(diagonal to the
2 Fold the selvage over to form a
bias fold edges create fabric grain
selvedge of the fabric) triangle, creating a 45 degree lines. The selvage is
Burns briefly Burns briefly fold along the bias.
Burns and chars Burns and melts cut edge 6 the lengthwise grain, while
and chars and melts
I’m making ½” wide double- the cut edge is the crosswise
• 1 yard of fabric fold bias tape, so I need to cut grain. The bias is a diagonal
cut edge bias 2” wide strips. Remember that
Smells of Sharp, Sweet, • Bias tape maker cut edge line in the middle of that,
Smells of Smells of Smells of Smells of Smells of Smells of Smells you’re cutting from the BIAS
burning chemical chemical see p.73 Bias tape creating a bias grain. It makes
burning grass burning paper vinegar burning meat turmeric burning hair of celery
asphalt odor odor CUT EDGE. Use your chalk to
makers two 45 degree angles with
• Quilting ruler Cut along that fold and voila, mark which edge is which, if the cut edge and the selvage.
3 you need to. Using a rotary
Hard, black, • Iron bias you have a bias cut edge!
Hard, black, Hard, black, Soft, black, Soft, Irregular, Open, lace- Hard, Hard, fold cutter, quilting ruler, and
Soft, gray ash irregular • Tailor’s chalk or pencil
irregular ash irregular bead irregular ash black beads dark ash like ash gray beads tan beads
beads cutting mat, continue cutting
• Rotary cutter FABRIC FOR
• Cutting mat your strips till you get to the BIAS TAPE
end of your fabric. Fabrics with small prints work
LINEN, ACETATE OR ACRYLIC (ORLON, ACRYLIC (ZEFRAN, WEIGHTED MODA-
JUTE, HEMP TRIACETATE ACRILAN) ZEFKROME) SILK NYLON OLEFIN If you have a super long best, as large prints might not be
SILK CRYLIC
cutting mat, you can start 7 Now sew all the strips together. This can be tedious but this obvious on a thin bias tape. Here
bias cutting bias strips now along method is fairly quickly and seems easiest to me. are some types of fabric you can
cut edge
Hard, black, the bias cut edge. Go straight make bias tape from:
Hard, black,
Soft, gray ash Soft, black ash irregular
round beads
to Step 6. • 100% cotton
beads Take two strips of fabric that • Cotton/poly blend
have edges angled in the same (I find this easiest to use)
direction. • Satin (or Polyester Satin)
MERCERIZED WOOL,
COTTON,
RAMIE, RAYON
COTTON OR CASHMERE, VINYON POLYESTER Overhang • Knits
MERCERIZED MOHAIR, ALPACA
But since most of us have a Put the right sides of the fabric • Flannel, corduroy, and
SEE ALSO 4 together. You need the tip of
small cutting surface, fold the cotton variations
bias triangle in half along again, each strip to overhang a bit,
right
cut edge angle (you’ll see why in the next
p.73: Section One: Chapter 4: creating another 45 degree
90˚ step). The strips end up
Cotton Linen Acetate Acrylic Silk Wool Nylon Rayon Polyester Bias tape makers fold along the bias. This will
p 146: Section Two: Chapter 8: allow you to cut more of the overhanging about ½”) and
Making a Bias tape: Method 2 fabric at once on a smaller make a 90 degree angle with
cutting mat. each other. Try to be as exact

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