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How to Check an Electric Motor

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Last Updated: March 29, 2019 References

When a motor fails, it is often difficult to see why it failed just by looking at it. A motor
placed in storage may or may not work, regardless of its physical appearance. A quick
check-out can be done with a simple ohm meter, but there's a lot more information to
collect and weigh before actually putting it to use. At no time during the motor check out is
power required. If it is connected - disconnect it before attempting the steps below.

Part
1 Checking the Outside of the Motor

Check the outside of the motor. If the motor has any of the following
1 issues on the outside, they may be problems that can shorten the life of the
motor because of previous overloading, wrong application, or both. Look for:[1]
Broken mounting holes or feet
Darkened paint in the middle of the motor (indicating excessive heat)
Evidence of dirt and other foreign matter having been pulled into the motor
windings through openings in the housing

Check the nameplate on the motor. The nameplate is a metal or other

2 durable tag or label that is riveted or otherwise affixed to the outside of
motor housing called the '"stator" or "frame". Important information about the
motor is on the label; without it, it will be difficult to determine its suitability to a
task. Typical information found on most motors include (but not limited to):[2]
Manufacturer's Name — the name of the company the made the motor
Model and Serial Number — information that identifies your particular motor
RPM — the number of revolutions the rotor makes in one minute
Horsepower — how much work it can perform
Wiring diagram — how to connect for different voltages, speeds and
direction of rotation
WeVoltage — to
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Current — amperage requirements
 Frame Style — physical dimensions and mounting pattern
Type — describes if frame is open, drip proof, total enclosed fan cooled, etc.

Part
2 Checking the Bearings

Begin to check the bearings of the motor. Many electric motor failures are
1 caused by bearing failures. The bearings allow the shaft or rotor assembly to
turn freely and smoothly in the frame. Bearings are located at both ends of the
motor which are sometimes called "bell housings" or "end bells".[3]
There are several types of bearings used. Two popular types are brass
sleeve bearings and steel ball bearings. Many have fittings for lubrication
while others are permanently lubricated or "maintenance free".

Perform a check of the bearings. To perform a cursory check of the

2 bearings, place the motor on a solid surface and place one hand on the top
of the motor, spin the shaft/rotor with the other hand. Closely watch, feel, and
listen for any indication of rubbing, scraping, or unevenness of the spinning rotor.
The rotor should spin quietly, freely and evenly.[4]

Next, push and pull the shaft in and out of the frame. A small amount of
3 movement in and out (most household fractional horsepower types should
be less than 1/8" or so) is permitted, but the closer to "none" the better. A motor
that has bearing-related issues when run will be loud, overheat the bearings,
and potentially fail catastrophically.

Part
3 Checking the Windings

Check the windings for short circuiting to the frame. Most household
1 appliance motors with a shorted winding will not run and will probably open
the fuse or trip the circuit breaker instantly (600 volt systems are "ungrounded,"
so a 600 volt motor with a shorted winding may run and not trip a fuse or circuit
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 Use an ohmmeter to check resistance value. With an ohmmeter set to the
2 Resistance or Ohms test setting, place test probes into the appropriate
jacks, usually the "Common" and "Ohms" jacks. (Check the meter's operation
manual if necessary) Choose the highest scale (R X 1000 or similar) and zero
the meter by touching both probes against each other. Adjust the needle to 0 if
possible. Locate a ground screw (often a green, hex head type) or any metal
part of the frame (scrape away paint if needed to make good contact with metal)
and press a test probe to this spot and the other test probe to each of the motor
leads, one at a time. Ideally, the meter should barely move off the highest
resistance indication. Make sure your hands are not touching the metal probe
tips, as doing so will cause the reading to be inaccurate.[6]
It may move a fair amount, but the meter should always indicate a resistance
value in the millions of ohms (or "megohms"). Occasionally, values as low as
several hundred thousand ohms (500,000 or so), *may* be acceptable, but a
higher number is more desirable.
Many digital meters do not offer the ability to zero, so skip the "zeroing"
information above if yours is a digital meter.

Check that the windings are not open or blown. Many simple "across the
3 line" single-phase and 3-phase motors (used in household appliances and
industry respectively) can be checked simply by changing the range of the ohm
meter to the lowest offered (R X 1), zeroing the meter again, and measuring the
resistance between the leads of the motor. In this case, consult the wiring
diagram of the motor to be sure that the meter is measuring across each
winding.[7]
Expect to see a very low value of resistance in ohms. Low, single digit
resistance values are expected. Make sure your hands are not touching the
metal probe tips, as doing so will cause the reading to be inaccurate. Values
greater than this indicate a potential problem and values significantly greater
than this indicate the winding has failed opened. A motor with high
resistance will not run - or not run with speed control (as is the case when a
3-phase motor winding opens while running).

Part
4 Troubleshooting Other
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 Check the start or run capacitor used for starting or running some
1 motors, if equipped. Most capacitors are protected from damage by a
metal cover on the exterior of the motor. The cover must be removed to access
the capacitor for inspection and testing. A visual inspection might indicate oil
leaking from the container, bulges in the container, or any holes in the container,
burnt smell or smoke residue — all potential problems.[8]
Electrically checking a capacitor can be done with the ohm meter. Placing
the test probes on the capacitor terminals, the resistance should start low,
and gradually increase as the small voltage supplied by the meter's battery
gradually charges the capacitor. If it stays shorted or does not rise, there is
probably an issue with the capacitor and may need to be replaced. The
capacitor will have to be allowed 10 or more minutes to discharge before
attempting this test again.

Check the rear bell housing of the motor. Some motors have centrifugal
2 switches used to switch the start / run capacitor (or other windings) "in" and
"out" of the circuit at a specific RPM. Check the switch contacts are not welded
closed or are contaminated with dirt and grease that could prevent a good
connection. Use a screwdriver to see if the switch mechanism and any spring
can be operated freely.[9]

Check the fan. A "TEFC" type motor is a "Totally Enclosed, Fan Cooled"
3 type. The fan blades are behind metal guard on the back of the motor. Make
sure it is securely fastened to the frame and is not clogged with dirt and other
debris. The openings in the rear metal guard need to have full and free air
movement; otherwise, the motor will overheat and eventually fail.[10]

Choose the right motor for the conditions in which it will be run. Check
4 that drip-proof motors are exposed to directed water spray or moisture, and
that open motors aren't exposed to any water or moisture at all.[11]
Drip-proof motors can be installed in damp or wet locations, so long as they
are installed in such a way that water (and other liquids) can not enter due to
gravity and must not be subjected to a stream of water (or other liquids)
directed at or in it.
Open motors are, as the name implies, completely open. The ends of the
motor have rather large openings and the windings in the stator windings are
plainly visible. These motors should not have these openings blocked or
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 TEFC motors on the other hand, can be used in all the previously mentioned
areas but must not be submerged unless designed specifically for the
purpose.

Community Q&A

Question

How do I check and find out with a multi-meter whether a motor is faulty or
not?

Community Answer

You can find that by checking the ohms between the motor terminals, if shorted
or not .

Question

My electric chainsaw motor still runs, but sparks and heat are coming from
the brushes and commutator. What could be the problem?

Community Answer

Check that the brush springs still have enough tension to hold them securely to
the commutator. If not, they could be skipping across high spots on the
commutator.

Question

What should I test if my fan only works on low speed whether the switch is
low or high, and the capacitor tests are fine?

Community Answer

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 Get out your ohmmeter, open up the fan, and check the continuity of all of the
coils in the fan motor. One of them is probably open.

Question

How do I wire an electric motor?

Community Answer

Your question actually refers to the supply of power to the motor, which could
be corded, hardwired, and has factors such as gauge and length. However, if
you are actually asking, "How do I connect the wires in a motor?", not all motors
are the same. It depends on the voltage supply, such as 110v or 220v. The best
answer I can give is to follow the instructions supplied with the motor. It should
provide voltage tables matching the correct color codes and / or jumper settings
for voltage selection.

Question

How do I reverse the direction the motor runs?

Community Answer

If it's a single-phase type, you just need to move L1 (the only phase) between
the 02 leads of the capacitor. If it's a 3-phase motor, you have to swap only two
phases.

Question

I was runing a 240v 2kw motor off a faulty generator which I now know was
producing less than 240v. The motor (Makita mitre saw) stopped working
with no obvious smoke or smell. What are the first things to check for
repair?

Community Answer

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 My table saw motor has an inconspicuous built in circuit breaker button that
tripped on low voltage/high load. It took me a long time to find it. Look for that
first. After that, get out your ohm meter and start checking the windings for an
open coil.

Question

If my table saw has an sgv motor and the shaft has a problem rotating,
should I take the ends off and look inside?

Community Answer

If it has bronze sleeve bearings (rather than ball bearings) the bearings are out
of oil and have seized up. Take the ends off, clean out the bearings with steel
wool, polish the shafts with fine emery cloth, oil up the lubricating felts and put it
back together.

Question

My electric motor only runs when it's not grounded. How can I check for the
cause?

Community Answer

Sounds like you have a winding down to ground. Do the following with the
motor disconnected. With a multimeter set to low ohms (usually 200), test
between each winding terminal and the metal casing of the motor. If there is
any reading on any of these then the motor is bad, do not use it. You may find
that when it runs ungrounded that the casing becomes live at up to supply
voltage.

Question

What is the best reliable device to use for protecting the motor against over-
current?

Community
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 All motors should be protected by an overcurrent device (MCB) in the consumer
unit, and a residual current device (RCD or GFCI). Fixed appliances should
ideally be on their own circuit with the MCB sized to suit the appliance. MCBs
should be of type C or D to allow for inrush current, and the Z ratings of the
circuit must be below the specified threshold in your locality for the rating of the
overcurrent device. 3 Phase motors are usually additonally protected by a
thermal overload relay or electronic equivalent which is much more accurate
and the same device can be used for single phase if desired.

Question

How do I find the common in a single-phase motor?

Community Answer

It really shouldn't matter, an AC single-phase motor can be connected either

way.

Tips

A NEMA Quick Reference List can be consulted for all dimensional motor data.

It is not that uncommon for a motor's windings to be both "open" and "shorted"
at the same time. At first look, this may seem to be an oxymoron, but it really
isn't. An example could be an "open" circuit caused by an electrical failure
caused by a foreign object that falls into or is drawn magnetically into the motor
or excessive voltage that literally causes a wire in the winding to "blow up" or
melt. This results in a broken path - or "open circuit". Either if end of the wire at
the open point - or if some melted copper wire should encounter the motor frame
or other grounded part of the motor - a "short circuit" results. It doesn't happen
often - but it does happen.
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References

1. http://www.uesystems.com/news/the-50-failure-modes-of-electric-motors
2. https://www.vfds.com/blog/how-to-read-a-motor-nameplate
3. https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/motors-and-
drives/troubleshooting-motor-bearing-wear
4. https://www.machinedesign.com/motorsdrives/trouble-shooting-bearing-currents
5. https://www.accelix.com/community/preventive-maintenance/typical-causes-of-
electric-motor-winding-failures-and-how-to-prevent-them/
6. https://www.groschopp.com/how-to-check-a-motor-armature/
7. http://www.tigertek.com/servo-motor-resources/check-spindle-motor-windings.html
8. https://sciencing.com/troubleshoot-electric-motor-capacitor-problem-8001821.html
9. https://motorimpex.ua/files/downloads/MPFiltri_LMG.pdf
10. https://www.powertransmissionworld.com/is-your-electric-motor-trying-to-tell-you-
something/
11. https://electrical-engineering-portal.com/7-most-common-motor-enclosure-types-
defined-by-nema-standards

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