© Lonely Planet Publications

13

Contents
On the Road 4 Eating
Entertainment
91
92
Getting There & Away 92
SFAKIA & LEFKA ORI 92
Crete Highlights 5 Hania to Omalos 92
Omalos 92
Destination Crete 16 Samaria Gorge
Askyfou
93
94
Imbros Gorge 95
Getting Started 17 SOUTHERN COAST
Agia Roumeli
95
95
Hora Sfakion 96
Itineraries 20 Around Hora Sfakion
Frangokastello
97
98
Loutro 98
History 23 Sougia 100
Around Sougia 101
Paleohora 102
The Culture 40 Around Paleohora 105
Gavdos 106

Food & Drink 55 WESTERN HANIA

Rodopou Peninsula
107
107
Kissamos-Kastelli 109

Environment 66 Around Kissamos-Kastelli

Gramvousa Peninsula
111
111
Falasarna 112
Crete Outdoors 70 Innahorion
Moni Hrysoskalitissas
113
115
Elafonisi 115
Hania 77 EASTERN HANIA
Georgioupolis
116
116
HANIA 78
Lake Kournas 117
History 78
Kalyves 117
Orientation 78
Almyrida 118
Information 78
Plaka 118
Sights 82
Aptera 119
Activities 83
Hania for Children 84 Vamos 119
Tours 84 Around Vamos 120
Festivals & Events 84 Vryses 120
Sleeping 84
Eating
Entertainment
85
87
Rethymno 121
RETHYMNO 122
Shopping 87
History 122
Getting There & Away 88
Orientation 123
Getting Around 88
AKROTIRI PENINSULA & Information 123
SOUDA BAY 89 Sights 123
Akrotiri Peninsula 89 Activities 126
Souda 90 Tours 126
GULF OF HANIA 91 Festivals & Events 126
Sleeping 91 Sleeping 126
14 CONTENTS

Eating 128 Houdetsi 164 Ha Gorge 205

Entertainment 129 Thrapsano 165 East of Ierapetra 205
Shopping 129 Avdou 166 Myrtos 206
Getting There & Away 129 Zaros 166
Getting Around 130 SOUTHERN IRAKLIO 168
AROUND RETHYMNO
Argyroupolis
130
130
Gortyna
Phaestos
168
169
Directory 208
Accommodation 208
Moni Agia Irinis 131 Agia Triada 171
Activities 210
Armeni 131 Vori 172
Business Hours 210
THE HINTERLAND 132 Matala 172
Children 211
Amari Valley 132 Around Matala 173
Climate Chart 211
Spili 133 Kommos 174
Courses 211
Moni Arkadiou 134 Kamilari 174
Customs 211
Eleftherna 134 Kalamaki 175
Dangers & Annoyances 212
Margarites 134 Kapetaniana 175
Discount Cards 212
Perama to Anogia 135 Lendas 176
Embassies & Consulates 212
Anogia 136 Kastri & Keratokambos 176
Festivals & Events 213
Mt Psiloritis 137 NORTHEASTERN COAST 177
Food 214
THE SOUTH COAST 138 Hersonisos & Malia 177
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 214
Plakias 138 Koutouloufari 177
Holidays 214
Around Plakias 140 Palace of Malia 178
Insurance 215
Agios Pavlos & Triopetra 141
Internet Access 215
Agia Galini
THE NORTHEAST COAST
142
143 Lasithi 180 Legal Matters
Maps
215
215
Panormo 143 NORTH COAST 181
Agios Nikolaos 181 Money 215
Bali 144
Kritsa 186 Photography & Video 216
Post 216
Iraklio 146 Around Kritsa
Ancient Lato
187
187 Shopping 217
IRAKLIO 147 Elounda 188 Solo Travellers 218
History 147 Kolokytha Peninsula 189 Telephone 218
Orientation 147 Plaka 190 Time 218
Information 149 Spinalonga Island 190 Toilets 218
Sights 149 Milatos 190 Tourist Information 219
Iraklio for Children 153 LASITHI PLATEAU 191 Tourist Police 219
Activities 154 Tzermiado 191 Tours 219
Tours 154 Agios Georgios 191 Visas 219
Festivals & Events 154 Psyhro 192 Travellers with Disabilities 219
Sleeping 154 Dikteon Cave 192 Women Travellers 220
Eating 155 NORTHEAST COAST 192 Work 220
Entertainment 156 Gournia 192
Shopping
Getting There & Away
157
157
Mohlos
Sitia
193
194 Transport 221
Getting Around 158 Moni Toplou 196 GETTING THERE & AWAY 221
AROUND IRAKLIO 158 EAST COAST 197 Entering the Country 221
Knossos 158 Vai 197 Air 221
Cretaquarium 161 Itanos 197 Land 223
Fodele 161 Palekastro 197 Sea 224
Arolithos 162 Around Palekastro 198 GETTING AROUND 226
Tylisos 162 Zakros & Kato Zakros 199 Bicycle 226
Myrtia 162 Zakros Palace 199 Boat 226
Temenos 163 Xerokambos 201 Bus 227
CENTRAL IRAKLIO 163 SOUTH COAST 202 Car & Motorcycle 227
Arhanes 163 Ierapetra 202 Hitching 230
Around Arhanes 164 Gaidouronisi (Hrysi Island) 204 Local Transport 230
 © Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 15

Health 231 Women’s Health

Sexual Health
233
233
Transport
Travel with Children
239
240
BEFORE YOU GO 231
Insurance 231
Recommended
Vaccinations 231
Language 234 Glossary 241
Pronounciation 234
Online Resources 231
IN TRANSIT 231
Accommodation
Conversation & Essentials
234
236
Behind the Scenes 244
Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT) 231 Directions 236
Jet Lag 232 Health
Language Difficulties
237
238
Index 251
IN CRETE 232
Numbers 238
Availability & Cost of
Health Care 232 Paperwork 238 World Time Zones 258
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 232 Question Words 238
Environmental Hazards
Travelling with Children
232
233
Shopping & Services
Time & Dates
239
239 Map Legend 260

Regional Map Contents

Hania
p79
Rethymno
p122
Iraklio
p148 Lasithi p182

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 © Lonely Planet Publications
16

Destination Crete
Crete is a vast and fascinating island whose diversity and stature are un-
rivalled by any other Greek isle. The birthplace of Zeus evokes a wealth
of myths, legends and history. Its sun-blessed and dramatic landscape is
dominated by soaring mountains and stunning beaches. Its proud and hos-
pitable people uphold their unique culture and traditions and, despite the
onslaught of mass tourism, rural life remains a dynamic and enduring part
of the island’s soul.
Crete’s rich mosaic presents visitors with an abundance of choices and
experiences. The island’s rugged interior is sliced by dramatic gorges and
interspersed with fertile plains and hillsides blanketed in olive groves, vine-
yards, wildflowers and aromatic herbs. In the west thousands of people trek
through the Samaria Gorge, reputedly Europe’s longest, while the far east
has Europe’s only palm-tree-lined forest beach.
Crete’s natural beauty is equalled only by the richness of a history that
spans millennia. The palace of Knossos is the most famous vestige of the glori-
FAST FACTS: ous Minoan civilisation that once ruled the Aegean, and Minoan palaces and
treasures can be found across the island. At the crossroads of three continents,
Population 601,131
Crete has been coveted and occupied by consecutive invaders. A profusion of
Area: 8336 sq km evocative ruins reveals its turbulent past, from Roman settlements, Venetian
GDP: €9 billion (5.3% of fortresses, Ottoman mosques and Byzantine monasteries, while history comes
Greece’s GDP) alive in the charming old towns of Hania and Rethymno.
Unemployment: 6.1%
Crete has the dubious honour of hosting nearly a quarter of Greece’s
tourists but it’s big enough for independent travellers to venture off and
Number of olive trees: find their own style of travel, from world-class luxury resorts and spas and
30 million historic boutique hotels to restored stone cottages in mountain villages. Free
Percentage employed in spirits and naturists gravitate to the remote southern beaches and island of
tourism: 40 Gavdos; intrepid hikers explore the final leg of the E4 European walking
Annual number of visitors trail; cyclists whizz around the Lasithi Plateau; while nature-lovers arrive
to Crete: 2.5 million en masse in spring to walk among the stunning wildflowers. Crete’s terrain
provides an exciting challenge for climbing, canyoning and all manner of
Number of visitors to extreme sports.
Knossos in 2006: 705,305 This is an ideal road-trip destination, with picturesque (and often harrow-
Number of people who ing) drives through the spectacular mountains leading to remote beaches,
walked the Samaria traditional mountain villages and isolated agricultural settlements.
Gorge in 2006: 176,747 While the renowned Cretan hospitality has been somewhat lost in the
Estimated number of tourist-ridden resort towns, you can still find glimpses of the old Crete if you
guns: 1 million head off the beaten track. The 4WDs might outnumber the mules, but you’ll
inevitably stop to let a flock of goats cross the road and occasionally come
across men in traditional dress at the village kafeneio (coffee house).
Cretans fiercely protect their culture and maintain a profound attachment
to the traditions, music and dances that have forged their identity. Crete’s
distinctive cuisine and its abundance of fresh produce provide the elements
for a developing gourmet trail.
A lively destination year-round, Greece’s largest and wealthiest island may
feel more like a small country, with its sprawling cosmopolitan capital, big
cities and towns filled with sophisticated cafés, bars, restaurants, universities
and commercial activity. Above all, Crete maintains its distinctive island
identity and enduring allure.
 17

Getting Started
Crete is an exciting destination but, unlike other Greek islands, it’s not just a
matter of hopping off the boat and taking it from there. Crete is a massive and
extraordinarily diverse island open to endless exploration and experiences.
Most people only ever scratch the surface of what it has to offer. You can pack
a lot in with careful planning, especially if you base yourself in central Crete.
You will probably need to choose between the east and west, even between
north and south, and take the time to explore one region thoroughly – it’s a good
excuse to come back and see the rest. In peak season, it is best to have booked
accommodation, but most of the time you can find somewhere to stay.
Bear in mind that navigating the mountainous interior means zigzagging
across the island, though the upside is that you see some spectacular territory
and pass traditional villages on your way to that remote southern beach you’re
after. The distances aren’t always huge, but winding through mountains can
be hard going, so be realistic about how far you can drive in one day.
The best way to see Crete is by car or motorbike, but an extensive part of
the island is accessible by bus.

WHEN TO GO
Crete’s sunny disposition and long summers mean you can swim from mid-
April to November, particularly off the southern coast. The best times to visit
are in late spring/early summer and in autumn when the weather is not too
hot for hiking and other outdoor activities. Conditions are perfect between
Easter and late June, when the weather is pleasantly warm in most places, See Climate Chart (p211)
the sea warm enough for a swim, the wildflowers are in bloom, beaches and for more information on
ancient sites are relatively uncrowded, public transport operates on close to rainfall and temperature
full schedules, and accommodation is cheaper and easy to find. ranges throughout
The high season kicks in around late June and lasts until the end of the year.
August. Accommodation can be booked solid in August and is signifi-
cantly more expensive. July and August are the hottest months and the
most crowded, and while this is a great time for hanging out at the beach
and enjoying balmy nights, it’s tough-going traipsing around archaeologi-
cal sites or walking in the heat. In July and August, the meltemi (strong
northeasterly winds) can play havoc with ferry schedules and make sandy
beaches unpleasant. There’s usually no rain at all during summer. In win-
ter, most beach resorts close down and tourist services and attractions are
scaled right back, especially outside major cities.

COSTS & MONEY

Crete is cheap by northern European standards, but not as cheap as it used
to be, especially in the high season (July and August) when prices rise
dramatically. The following budgets are for individuals; couples sharing a
room and meals can get by on less. Add €25 to €30 per day for car hire.
A rock-bottom daily budget would require €30 to €40. This would mean
taking buses, staying in hostels or camping, and only occasionally eating
in tavernas and visiting sites and museums.
Allow at least €60 per day in the summertime for a simple room, meals
in local tavernas, drinks at night and some sightseeing.
If you want more-comfortable hotels, good wine, and visits to restaurants,
bars, museums and sites, you will need more than €100 per day.
An average taverna meal works out to about €10 to €15 per person includ-
ing house wine; you can virtually double that for a fancier restaurant.
 18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • B o o k s a b o u t C re t e lonelyplanet.com

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT...

Sturdy walking shoes for clambering around ancient sites and hiking gorges.
Sunglasses, hat, sunscreen and mosquito repellent.
Swimming gear, shorts and light cotton clothing (a light sweater or jacket for evenings and
when in the mountains).
A healthy appetite, adventurous palate and a stomach for raki.
Room enough in your bag to bring home some fabulous olive oil and bags of herbs.
Valid travel insurance, ID card or passport and driving licence.
A camera…Pic opportunities abound.
A compass, whistle and good maps if you are going to hike in remote areas.
A torch (flashlight) for occasional blackouts and for exploring caves.
Binoculars for checking out the birds.
A mobile phone so you don’t feel left out (even the shepherds have one).
A Swiss Army knife for all eventualities (no Cretan would be without a knife).

BOOKS ABOUT CRETE

Crete is the subject of numerous travelogues and novels.
HOW MUCH? Essential reading includes Nikos Kazantzakis’ classic Zorba the Greek
Packet of 20 cigarettes (1946) and Freedom and Death (1950), both of which give a thoroughly
€2.80 engaging account of Cretan life, struggles and characters.
An iced cappuccino €3.50 Falling for Icarus is a humorous and well-written memoir of English
writer Rory MacLean’s bizarre attempt to build a plane in Crete, helped
A Greek salad €3.50 by a colourful cast of Cretans.
Double room at a 3-star The Island, by Victoria Hislop, is a compelling novel uncovering dark
hotel €70 family secrets and delving into life on the Spinalonga leper colony.
Mixed drink at a bar €6 Christopher Somerville writes a delightful and witty account of his
midlife crisis walk across Crete’s E4 trail in The Golden Step: A Walk
Through the Heart of Crete, weaving in history and characters.
George Psychoundakis’ The Cretan Runner is an exciting and personal
account of the Cretan resistance. The author was a runner delivering mes-
sages to the Allies. It was translated into English by author and fellow Re-
sistance fighter Patrick Leigh Fermor, who also wrote the introduction.
Across Crete, edited by Johan de Bakker, is the first of a three-part series
that takes the reader from Hania to Iraklio as seen through the eyes of
18th- and 19th-century British travellers such as Richard Pokocke, Robert
Pashley, Captain Spratt and Edward Lear.
Memory of Tides, by Angelo Loukakis is a moving novel about the par-
allel lives of a Greek-Australian soldier and a Cretan woman who meet
during WWII, set in both Crete and Australia.
Winds of Crete, by David MacNeill Doren, is an amusing account of island
life as experienced by an American and his Swedish wife.

INTERNET RESOURCES
Explore Crete (www.explorecrete.com) Good general travel site for Crete.
InfoCrete (www.infocrete.com) A site with about 100 Crete tourist-site web links.
Interkriti (www.interkriti.gr) Links to hotels, apartments, shops and restaurants, as well as an
active bulletin board.
Greek National Tourism Organisation (www.visitgreece.gr) Has some information about
Crete and links to the useful culture ministry site.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s 19

S
Io n ia n C re te

PICKS
Sea Sea of
Iraklio
TOP CRET
E

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

The Cretans take their festive occasions very seriously and use any excuse to get together for a big
meal, good company, music and free-flowing raki. There are festivals dedicated to snails, chestnuts and
potatoes, as well as religious and cultural events. For a comprehensive list of festivals, see p213.

Carnival, Rethymno (three weeks before Lent) Iraklio Festival (July–August)

Feast of Agios Yiorgos (St George), Asi Gonia Yakinthia Festival, Anogia (July)
(23 April) Sultana Festival, Sitia (August)
Easter Festivities, mountain villages (March– Traditional Cretan Wedding (Kritsa; August)
April)
Raki distilling season, everywhere (October)
Renaissance Festival, Rethymno (July–
September)

BEACHES
Crete has stunning beaches. The best are normally the hardest to get to, but the following are all
accessible, some with a bit of a walk. Crowds can detract from many of the more popular beaches,
but they are gorgeous nonetheless.

Balos, Gramvousa Peninsula, Hania (p111) Preveli Beach, Rethymno (p140)

Agios Pavlos & Triopetra, Rethymno (141) Agiofarango, Iraklio (p174)
Vai, Lasithi (p197) Kommos, Iraklio (p174)
Elafonisi, Hania (p115) Hrysi Island, Lasithi(p204)
Falasarna, Hania (p112)

CRETAN VILAGES
Crete’s mountains are dotted with authentic little villages that are a world away from the coastal
tourist resorts. While some have become tourist attractions in themselves, you can still gain an
insight into rural village life, especially after the last tour buses leave. Venturing off the beaten
track leads to remote and unspoilt villages. These are some of the ones worth seeing:

Argyroupolis (p130) Kritsa (p186)

Anogia (p135) Askyfou (p94)
Spili (p133) Maroulas (p132)
Margarites (p134) Arhanes (p163)

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Has information on Crete, as well as travel news,

updates to our guidebooks and links to other travel resources.
Stigmes (www.forthnet.gr/stigmes/destcret.htm) Insightful Crete magazine.
West Crete (www.west-crete.com) Comprehensive guide to western Crete.
 20

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
If you only have CRETE HIGHLIGHTS Seven days / 320km
a week, this Starting in Iraklio (p146), check out the superb archaeological museum and
route takes in the make the obligatory pilgrimage to the palace of Knossos (p158). On day two
head south to explore the Roman Gortyna (p168) and the Minoan Palace of
island’s major ar- Phaestos (p169), stopping for a swim by the hippie caves at Matala (p172) or
chaeological sites, at nearby Kommos (p174). A visit to the excellent folk museum at Vori (p172)
a couple of stun- is a worthwhile detour. Spend the night by the beach or head inland to the
ning beaches and village of Zaros (p166). Travelling west, stop in the village of Spili (p133) on
the way to Moni Preveli (p140) and Preveli Beach (p141) and spend the night
mountain villages, in Plakias (p138). Go north to Rethymno (p122) and spend a day exploring
the Samaria Gorge the old town. Heading west, stop at Vryses (p120) for lunch before driving
and Crete’s most to Hania (p78) for the evening. Take the early bus to the start of the Samaria
picturesque towns. Gorge (p93) and trek to Agia Roumeli, where you can take the boat west to
It’s a jam-packed Loutro (p98). The next morning take the boat to Hora Sfakion (p96) and bus
it back to Hania.
schedule covering
about 320km.

SEA OF CRETE

Hania

Vryses
Rethymno Iraklio

Samaria Knossos
Gorge
Spili
Loutro Plakias
Hora
Sfakion Moni Zaros
Preveli
Preveli
Beach Vori
Gortyna
Kommos Phaestos
Matala

LIBYAN SEA
 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 21

CENTRAL-WEST CRETE 12 to 14 Days / 500km

This itinerary covers some of Crete’s most stunning natural attractions, the
unspoilt southern coast, unique villages and its two most attractive towns.
Starting in Iraklio (p146), head inland to Anogia (p136) and the villages and
caves at the foothills of Mt Psiloritis (p137). Stop by the pottery village of
Margarites (p134) and the historic Moni Arkadiou (p134) before spending This covers a pretty
some time in the Venetian port of Rethymno (p122) with its 16th-century
fortress. Heading south, the fountains at Spili (p133) make a good coffee thorough wish list
stop before a visit to Moni Preveli (p140) and Preveli Beach (p141). From here of Crete’s high-
you could continue east to the stunning southern beaches of Agios Pavlos lights and involves
& Triopetra (p141) or head west to the traveller hang-out of Plakias (p138) lots of winding
and the beachfront fortress of Frangokastello (p98).
Heading west through the Kourtoulioti Gorge you come to the coastal mountain drives.
port of Hora Sfakion (p96). You can either take a boat trip along the southern You should allow
coast to Loutro (p98) or Sougia (p100) and double back, or take the steep road for plenty of stops
north to the Lefka Ori along the Imbros Gorge (p95) to the mountain village and distractions.
of Askyfou (p94). Spend at least a day in alluring Hania (p78). Total distance
To the north, the Akrotiri Peninsula (p89) has some lovely monasteries
and the famous beach at Stavros (p89) where Zorba the Greek was filmed. covered would be
Take the circular route southwest via Kolymbari (p108) and the villages of more than 500km.
Innahorion (p113), to the westernmost tip of the island at Elafonisi (p115).
Return to Hania via the coastal road, detouring to Falasarna (p112) and
north to the Gramvousa Peninsula (p111) to the spectacular beach at Balos
(p111). Returning east it’s worth stopping at the springs of Argyroupolis
(p130), southwest of Rethymno, and the lovely resort town of Panormo
(p143), on the eastern coast heading to Iraklio.

SEA OF CRETE

Gramvousa Stavros
Peninsula
Balos Akrotiri
Kolymbari
Hania Peninsula
Falasarna

Panormo

Rethymno
Iraklio
Margarites
Innahorion Anogia
Villages Askyfou Moni
Arkadiou
Elafonisi
Argyroupolis
Sougia Imbros Spili Mt Psiloritis
Gorge
Loutro Plakias

Hora Frangokastello
Sfakion
Moni Preveli
Preveli Beach
Triopetra
Agios Pavlos

LIBYAN SEA
 22 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s

TAILORED TRIPS
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE MINOANS Six to Seven Days / 400km
The Minoans knew how to choose their real estate so this is not a bad way
to see some of the best spots on the island. Allow at least half a day at the
museum in Iraklio (p146) to appreciate the richness of Minoan civilisation
through the treasures found at the major sites. After exploring the palace at
Knossos (p158), take a short detour to the sanctuary of Anemospilia (p164). At
Arhanes (p163), you can stop at the excellent small museum and the Vathy-
petro Villa (p164) nearby, which was probably the house of a Minoan noble.
Head east inland or along the coast to the palace
of Malia (p178), and then to the important site of
Gournia (p192), about 19km southeast of Agios
Nikolaos. Continuing east veer off the highway
to the seaside village of Mohlos (p193), where there
are tombs near the cliffs and an islet opposite with
Iraklio the ruins of Minoan houses. Continue east past
Knossos Malia Palekastro Sitia to Palekastro (p197), where ongoing excava-
Anemospilia
Vathypetro Villa Arhanes Mohlos tions are expected to uncover a major palace. The
Phaestos;
Gournia Zakros palace of Zakros (p199) is ideally located next to
Agia Triada the lovely beach of Kato Zakros (see p200) and
Kamilari;
Kommos
the Zakros Gorge. It is a long drive west cutting
inland to the major palace at Phaestos (p169) and
the summer villa at Agia Triada (p171). The minor
sites at Kamilari (p174) and Kommos (p103) are
next to good beaches.

GORGES & SOUTH COAST TOWNS Three to Five Days / 120km

This itinerary combines a trek through two stunning gorges, including the
famous Samaria Gorge, and a boat trip to a couple of great beaches. It is best
done by bus and you need to be travelling very light or organise to have your
luggage delivered ahead in a few places. From Hania (p78) take the early bus
to Omalos (p92) and walk through the Samaria
Gorge (p93), leaving early to ensure you get to Agia
Roumeli (p95) in time to cool off with a swim and
catch the afternoon boat to Sougia (p100). Rest
your weary body at this laid-back beach com-
munity in preparation for a 7km walk down the
Hania smaller Agia Irini Gorge (p101) the next day. A bus
or taxi from Sougia takes you to the start of the
gorge and it is a reasonable walk back. The next
Omalos day you can take the boat to Paleohora (p102).
Agia Irini You can also take the stunning coastal walk (p106)
Gorge
E4 Sougia
Samaria
Gorge
from Sougia to Paleohora, which is one of the
Paleohora Trail most popular parts of the E4 trail, stopping at the
Lissos Agia
Roumeli ruins of ancient Lissos (p102). Relax in Paleohora
before taking the bus back to Hania.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
23

History
Crete’s colourful history goes back 5000 years and is evident across the island,
from ancient palaces and Roman cities to spectacular Byzantine churches,
Venetian fortresses and Ottoman buildings. Crete’s prominent place in world
history is a legacy of the illustrious Minoan civilisation that was living in
grand palaces when the rest of Europe was still in primitive huts. Crete has
also left an indelible mark in the popular imagination because of its promi-
nent place in ancient Greek mythology. It was where Rhea gave birth to Zeus
and hid him from his child-gobbling father, and it was Zeus’ son Minos who
became the legendary King of Minoan Crete. Icarus and Daedalus launched
their ill-fated flight in Crete, while Theseus made the voyage from Athens
to Crete to slay the Minotaur in the famous labyrinth.
Crete’s more recent history has been characterised by war and strug- The mythical Talos, a
gle, as the island was a strategic pawn in the battles for control of the bronze giant, is believed
Mediterranean. Crete has been invaded numerous times and ruled by to be the first robot
eight different foreign powers since Minoan times – by the Mycenaeans, invented. Hephaestus of-
Dorians, Romans, Venetians, Byzantines, Arabs, Ottomans and Ger- fered him as a servant to
mans. That Crete only united with Greece in 1913 explains its enduring King Minos. He had one
independent spirit. vein from neck to ankle,
where a bronze nail
THE MINOANS retained the blood.
The Minoans were the first advanced civilisation to emerge in Europe
in the Bronze Age, predating the great Mycenaean civilisation on the
Greek mainland. Minoan civilisation drew its inspiration from two great
Middle Eastern civilisations: the Mesopotamian and Egyptian. Immi-
grants arriving from Anatolia around 3000 BC brought with them the
skills necessary for making bronze, a technological quantum leap that
enabled the emerging Minoans to flourish almost uninterrupted for over
one-and-a-half millennia.
While many aspects of Neolithic life endured during the Early Minoan
period, the advent of bronze allowed the Minoans to build better boats and
thus expand their trade opportunities. Pottery and goldsmithing became
more sophisticated, foreshadowing the subsequent great achievements of
Minoan art, and the island prospered from trade.
Controversy still shrouds the mysterious Minoans. Evidence uncovered in
the grand palaces on Crete indicates they were a peaceful, sophisticated, well-
organised and prosperous civilisation with robust international trade, splendid
architecture and art and seemingly equal status for women. They had highly
developed agriculture, an extensive irrigation system as well as advanced
hydraulic sewerage systems. They may have spoken an early Indo-Iranian

6500 BC 3000 BC 2000 BC

Crete’s early inhabitants hunt Immigrants from the North Afri- The first palaces are built in
and fish and engage in ances- can or Levantine mainland arrive Knossos, Phaestos, Malia and
tor worship. Neolithic people with the skills for making bronze, Zakros. Minoan civilisation
live in caves or wooden houses, heralding the Bronze Age in reaches its peak. Architectural
worship female fertility god- Crete. In this Pre-Palatial period, advances are accompanied by
desses, farm, raise livestock society changes; the inhabit- great strides in pottery pro-
and make primitive pottery. ants begin to trade; pottery and duction techniques. The first
jewellery making develops. Cretan script emerges.
 24 HISTORY •• The Minoans lonelyplanet.com

KING MINOS: MAN OR MYTH?

The legend of King Minos has captured the imagination of generations of scholars intent on
finding evidence of the events described by Homer in The Odyssey: ‘Out on the dark blue sea
there lies a rich and lovely land called Crete that is densely populated and boasts 90 cities…
One of the 90 cities is called Knossos and there for nine years, King Minos ruled and enjoyed
the friendship of the mighty.’
The legendary ruler of Crete was the son of Zeus and Europa and attained the Cretan throne
with the help of Poseidon. With Knossos as his base, Minos gained control over the whole Aegean
basin, colonising many of the islands and ridding the seas of pirates. He married Pasiphae, the
daughter of Helios, who bore him a number of children, including the infamous half-bull, half-
human Minotaur.
How long King Minos actually reigned, however, is open to debate. The Homeric reference
enneaoros used to describe Minos could mean ‘for nine years’ or ‘from the age of nine years’.
Was Minos able to create an empire in nine short years, or was he a long-reigning monarch who
started his kingly career as a boy? He eventually came to a nasty end in Sicily when the daughters
of King Kokalios poured boiling water over him as he was taking a bath.

language, and the accounts and records left behind suggest their society was
organised as an efficient and bureaucratic commercial enterprise.
Although the evidence for a matriarchal society is scant, women apparently
For photos and descrip- enjoyed a great degree of freedom and autonomy. Minoan art shows women
tions of more than 50 participating in games, hunting and all public and religious festivals. They
Minoan sites around also served as priestesses, administrators and participated in the trades.
Crete, see archaeol- Not everyone buys into this rosy account of life in Minoan times; one
ogy buff Ian Swindle’s radical archaeologist claims it was more likely a sinister society based on a
comprehensive website death cult, with sacrificial orgies, and even argues that the distinctive giant
at www.uk.digiserve pithoi were used as burial urns, not storage.
.com/mentor/minoan Even the chronology on the Minoan age is still debated. But most archae-
/index.htm. ologists generally split the Minoan period into three phases: Protopalatial
(3400–2100 BC), Neopalatial (2100–1450 BC) and Postpalatial (1450–1200
BC). These periods roughly correspond, with some overlap, to the older divi-
sions of Early Minoan (some parts also called Pre-Palatial), Middle Minoan and
Late Minoan (the terms are used interchangeably throughout this book).
The Minoan civilisation reached its peak during the Protopalatial period,
also called the Old Palace or Middle Minoan period. Around 2000 BC, the
large palace complexes of Knossos, Phaestos, Malia and Zakros were built,
marking a sharp break with Neolithic village life.
During this period, Crete is believed to have been governed by local
rulers, with the island’s power and wealth concentrated at Knossos. Society
was organised on hierarchical lines, with a large population of slaves, and
there were great architectural advances.

1700 BC 1450 BC 1400 BC

Minoan palaces are destroyed, Minoan culture comes to an The Mycenaeans colonise Crete,
most likely by an earthquake. abrupt and unexplained halt. building new cities such as
The Minoans rebuild the The palaces (except Knossos) Lappa (Argyroupolis), Kydonia
palaces to a more complex and are destroyed in what archae- (Hania) and Polyrrinia. The man-
lavish design with multiple sto- ologists now believe was a ufacture of weapons flourishes,
reys, storerooms, workshops, massive tsunami following the the fine arts fall into decline.
living quarters for staff and an earthquake in Thira (Santorini). Greek gods replace worship of
advanced drainage system. the Mother Goddess.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • M y c e n a e a n C re t e 25

The first Cretan script also emerged during this period. At first highly
pictorial, the writing gradually changed from the representations of natural
objects to more abstract figures that resembled Egyptian hieroglyphics. Beyond the rich artistic
In 1700 BC the palaces were suddenly destroyed by what most archae- and cultural legacy, the
ologists believe was an earthquake. In what is considered the Minoan Minoans also invented
golden age, the Minoans then rebuilt the palaces at Knossos, Phaestos, the earliest ‘flushing’
Malia and Zakros to a more complex design centuries ahead of its time. toilet and advanced sew-
There were multiple storeys, sumptuous royal apartments, grand reception erage systems, described
halls, storerooms, workshops, living quarters for staff and an advanced in detail on www
drainage system. The design later gave rise to the myth of the Cretan .theplumber.com.
labyrinth (see the boxed text, p160).
During the Neopalatial period, the Minoan state developed into a pow-
erful thalassocracy, purportedly ruled by King Minos with the capital based
at Knossos. Trade with the eastern Mediterranean, Asia Minor and Egypt
continued to boom and was helped by Minoan colonies in the Aegean.
Minoan pottery, textiles and agricultural produce such as olive oil and
livestock subsequently found ready markets throughout the Aegean, Egypt,
Syria and possibly Sicily.
Minoan civilisation came to an abrupt and mysterious halt beginning
around 1450 BC after the palaces (except for Knossos) and numerous
smaller settlements were smashed to bits. New scientific evidence suggests
the Minoans were weakened by a massive tsunami and ash fallout from
a cataclysmic volcano that erupted on nearby Santorini (see boxed text, The Minoans knew how
p26). But there is much debate about both the timing and explanation for to enjoy themselves –
the ultimate demise of the Minoans. Some argue it was caused by a sec- playing board games,
ond, powerful earthquake a century later. Other archaeologists blame the boxing, wrestling
invading Mycenaeans. Whether the Mycenaeans caused the catastrophe or and performing bold
merely profited from it, it is clear that their presence on the island closely acrobatic feats including
coincided with the destruction of the palaces and Minoan civilisation. the sport of bull-leaping,
while Minoan dancing
MYCENAEAN CRETE was famous throughout
The Mycenaean civilisation, which reached its peak between 1500 and 1200 ancient Greece.
BC, was the first great civilisation on the Greek mainland. Named after the
ancient city of Mycenae, it is also known as the Achaean civilisation after the
Indo-European branch of migrants who had settled on mainland Greece.
Unlike Minoan society, where the lack of city walls seems to indicate
relative peace under some form of central authority, Mycenaean civilisation
was characterised by independent city-states, the most powerful of them
all being Mycenae, ruled by kings who inhabited palaces enclosed within
massive walls on easily defensible hilltops.
The Mycenaeans wrote in Linear B script (see the boxed text, p27). Clay
tablets inscribed with the script found at the palace of Knossos is evidence
of Mycenaean occupation of the island. Their colonisation of Crete lasted

1100 BC 431–386 BC 67 BC
The Dorians overrun the While Greece is embroiled in The Romans finally conquer
Mycenaean cities and become the Peloponnesian War, Crete Crete after starting their
Crete’s new masters. They is busy with its own internal invasion two years earlier in
reorganise the political system, battles, Knossos against Lyttos, Kydonia. Gortyna becomes the
divide society into classes. A ru- Phaestos against Gortyna, Ky- new capital and the island’s
dimentary democracy replaces donia against Apollonia, Itanos most powerful city. A new era
monarchical government. against Ierapitna. An earth- of peace follows as internal
quake wreaks havoc in 386. wars end.
26 H I S T O R Y • • M y c e n a e a n C re t e lonelyplanet.com

from 1400 to 1100 BC. Knossos probably retained its position as capital
of the island, but its rulers were subject to the mainland Mycenaeans.
The Minoan Cretans either left the island or hid in its interior while the
Mycenaeans founded new cities such as Lappa (Argyroupolis), Kydonia
(Hania) and Polyrrinia.
The economy of the island stayed more or less the same, still based upon
the export of local products, but the fine arts fell into decline. Only the manu-

CRETAN TSUNAMI
The sudden demise of the Minoans has been one of archaeology’s biggest mysteries, but new
scientific evidence confirms that they were wiped out by a cataclysmic tsunami more powerful
than the 2004 Asian Tsunami.
In deposits found at key sites up to 7m above sea level, scientists discovered Minoan pottery,
cups and building materials mixed up with pebbles, sea shells and tiny marine life that experts
say could only have been scooped up from the seabed by something as strong as a tsunami.
Archaeologist Joseph Alexander MacGillivray, who has spent more than 25 years in Crete
studying the Minoans, says tsunami science has been able to explain the scale of the disaster
and answer many questions baffling archaeologists.
‘When that wave hit the north coast, it was 23m high and 15km long. Three waves came ashore
and the Minoan cities on the coast were wiped out,’ says MacGillivray, who is in charge of the
British School of Archaeology’s excavations at Palekastro (see the boxed text, p198).
Radiocarbon dates for the deposits on Crete coincide with the massive volcanic eruption 70km
north on Santorini around 1500 BC.
MacGillivray says 7cm of undisturbed Thira ash was found as far as Zakros, on the eastern
coast. While the waves would not have reached Knossos, the damage to crops, their ports and
fleets would have decimated the society.
The timing also explains what the Minoans were doing in Egypt soon after 1500 BC, requesting
the breath of life from Pharaoh Hatshepsut.
‘We’ve known for a century that the Minoans only went for that one period and now we think
they went specifically to ask for help from the Pharaoh, who was the most powerful person on
earth at that time.’
DNA science and the human genome have also provided some clues to the origins of the
Minoans, including a new theory that the Bronze Age migration may have come from Troy, in
northwest Anatolia.
French accountant Hubert la Marle’s decipherment of Linear A script showed the Minoans
spoke a language that came from Persia (Iran), but MacGillivray says it may not necessarily have
travelled with the major population. ‘There is an Iranian DNA in Crete but it does not seem as
strong as the Trojan one. But this is just the beginning of the study,’ he says.
As for the controversial theory that it could be Plato’s lost continent of Atlantis, MacGillivray
says Plato was ‘no idiot…The classical Greeks had a very good idea of Minoan history because
it was part of Greek history…they knew where Crete was.’

27 BC AD 63 250
Crete united with Libya to form Christianity emerges after St The first Christian martyrs,
the Roman province of Cyrene. Paul visits Crete and leaves his the so-called Agii Deka (Ten
disciple, Titus, to convert the Saints) are killed in the village
island. of the same name, as Christian
persecutions begin in earnest.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • D o r i a n C re t e & t h e C l a s s i c a l Ag e 27

facture of weapons flourished, reflecting the new militaristic spirit that the
Mycenaeans brought to Crete. The Mycenaeans also replaced worship of the
Mother Goddess with new Greek gods such as Zeus, Hera and Athena. The Man Who Deciphered
Mycenaean influence stretched far and wide, but eventually weakened by Linear B, by Andrew
internal strife; they were no match for the warlike Dorians. Robinson, tells the fasci-
nating story of Michael
DORIAN CRETE & THE CLASSICAL AGE Ventris, the young genius
Despite fierce resistance, the Dorians conquered Crete around 1100 BC, who cracked the code
causing many of the inhabitants to flee to Asia Minor. Those who remained, in 1952, solving one of
known as Eteo-Cretans or true Cretans, retreated to the hills and thus pre- archaeology’s greatest
served their culture. linguistic mysteries and
The Dorians heralded a traumatic break with the past. The next 400 years establishing Linear B
are often referred to as Greece’s ‘dark age’, although it would be unfair to as the oldest European
dismiss the Dorians completely: they brought iron with them and developed writing system.
a new style of pottery, decorated with striking geometrical designs. They
also worshipped male gods instead of fertility goddesses and adopted the
Mycenaean gods of Poseidon, Zeus and Apollo, paving the way for the later
Greek religious pantheon.
The Dorians reorganised the political system of Crete and divided the
society into three classes: free citizens who owned property and enjoyed
political liberty (which included land-holding peasants); merchants and
seamen; and slaves. The monarchical system of government was replaced by
a rudimentary democracy. Ruling committees were elected by free citizens
and set policy. They were guided by a council of elders and answered to an
assembly of free citizens. Unlike Minoan times, women were condemned
to a subordinate role.

DECIPHERING THE MYSTERIES OF LINEAR B

The methodical decipherment of the Linear B script by English architect and part-time linguist
Michael Ventris in 1952 gave the first tangible evidence that the Greek language had a recorded
history longer than any scholar had previously believed. The language was an archaic form of
Greek 500 years older than the Ionic Greek used by Homer.
Linear B was written on clay tablets that lay undisturbed for centuries until they were unearthed
at Knossos in Crete. Further tablets were unearthed later on the mainland at Mycenae, Tiryns and
Pylos in the Peloponnese and at Thebes in Boeotia in Central Greece.
The clay tablets, found to be mainly inventories and records of commercial transactions, consist
of about 90 different signs, and date from the 14th to the 13th centuries BC. Little of the social
and political life of these times can be deduced from the tablets, although there is enough to
give a glimpse of a fairly complex and well-organised commercial structure.
Importantly, what is clear is that the language is undeniably Greek, thus giving the modern-day
Greek language the second-longest recorded written history, after Chinese.

395 727 824

The Roman Empire splits and Crete’s icon worship provokes The Arabs conquer Crete and
Crete is ruled by Byzantium. a revolt after Emperor Leo III establish a fortress called
Crete becomes a self-governing bans their worship as part of Chandax (Iraklio) to store their
province with Gortyna as its the iconoclastic movement. pirated treasure. As the island’s
administrative and religious The uprising is smashed criminal reputation grows, its
centre. Piracy decreases, trade and the Byzantine emper- economy dwindles and cultural
flourishes and many churches ors unleash a fierce wave of life grinds to a halt.
are built. retribution.
 28 HISTORY •• Roman Rule lonelyplanet.com

By about 800 BC, local agriculture and animal husbandry had become
sufficiently productive to trigger a resumption of maritime trading. As new
Greek colonies were established throughout the Mediterranean basin, Crete
took on a prominent trade role.
Minotaur: Sir Arthur Evans The people of the various city-states were unified by the development
and the Archaeology of of a Greek alphabet, the verses of Homer and the founding of the Olympic
the Minoan Myth, by Games. The establishment of central sanctuaries, such as Delphi, for the first
Joseph Alexander MacGil- time gave Cretans a sense of national identity as Greeks.
livray, is a fascinating Rethymno, Polyrrinia, Falasarna, Gortyna, Phaestos and Lato were built
portrait of the British ar- according to the new defensive style of Dorian city-states, with a fortified
chaeologist who revealed acropolis at the highest point, above an agora (marketplace), a bustling
the palace of Knossos to commercial quarter, and beyond it residential areas.
the world, and a study in The 6th-century-BC Laws of Gortyna, discovered at the end of the 19th
relative archaeology. century AD at Gortyna, open a window onto the societal structure of Dorian
Crete. Inscribed on 12 large stone tablets, the laws covered civil and criminal
matters, with clear distinctions drawn among the classes of free citizens and
between citizens and slaves. They are still in situ at the site.
As the rest of Greece entered its golden age from the 6th to 4th centuries
BC, Crete remained a backwater. Constant warfare between large commer-
cial centres and smaller traditional communities left the island increasingly
impoverished. Although Crete did not participate in the Persian wars or the
Peloponnesian War, economic circumstances forced many Cretans to sign
up as mercenaries in foreign armies or turn to piracy.
During this time, Crete’s role as the birthplace of Greek culture drew the
attention of philosophers such as Plato and Aristotle, who wrote extensively
about Crete’s political institutions.
Knossos, Gortyna, Lyttos and Kydonia (Hania) continued to vie for su-
premacy, causing ongoing turmoil. Egypt, Rhodes and Sparta got involved
in the Cretan squabbles and piracy flourished.

ROMAN RULE
While Alexander the Great was forging his vast empire in the East, the Romans
expanded theirs to the west and began making inroads into Greece. Their vari-
ous interests in Crete included reducing piracy and exerting control over im-
portant sea routes. The Roman presence in Crete dates back to the 3rd century
BC, but it wasn’t until the second Mithridatic War (74–64 BC) that they used
piracy as an excuse for intervention. Marcus Antonius, father of Mark Antony,
undertook an unsuccessful naval campaign against Crete. The Cretans tried to
negotiate and send envoys to Rome, but they were rebuffed. Expecting a Roman
invasion, the island united and assembled an army of 26,000 men. The Roman
campaign began in 69 BC under the Roman consul Metellus near Kydonia,
and spread throughout the island. Although the Cretans fought valiantly, the
Romans succeeded in subjugating the island two years later.

960 1204 1363

Byzantine general Nikiforos After the sacking of Constan- Venetians swiftly quell an
Fokas attacks Chandax in a tinople by Crusaders, Boniface uprising by Crete’s feudal
bitter siege, retaking Crete. The of Montferrat sells Crete to leaders (Venetians and Cretans)
Byzantines fortify the Cretan Venice. Venice rapidly colonises attempting to establish an
coast. Chandax becomes the Crete and starts building towns independent state under the
island’s capital and seat of the and defences in Rethymno, name of St Titus.
Cretan archdiocese. A powerful Hania, Iraklio and across the
land-holding class emerges. island.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • C h r i s t i a n i t y & B y z a n t i n e C re t e 29

Although Crete lost power and influence under the Romans, a new era
of peace was ushered in, ending Crete’s internal wars. Crete did not mount
a major challenge to Roman rule, although it became embroiled in the later
rivalry between Antony and Octavian, both of whom punished the cities
that supported their rival.
In the early years of Roman rule, parts of Crete were given as favours to vari-
ous Roman allies. In 27 BC Crete was united with Libya to form the Roman
province of Cyrene. The Romans built the first new cities since Minoan times,
with Gortyna becoming the capital and most powerful city in Crete. The Romans
built an amphitheatre, temples and public baths, and the population increased.
Knossos appeared to fall into disuse, but Kydonia (Hania) in the west became
an important centre. Roman towns were linked by a network of roads, bridges
and aqueducts, parts of which can still be seen today. Under the Romans, the
Cretans continued to worship Zeus in the Dikteon and Ideon Caves, and also
incorporated Roman and Egyptian deities into their religious rituals.

CHRISTIANITY & BYZANTINE CRETE

Christianity arrived early in Crete with St Paul’s visit in AD 63. He left it
to his disciple, Titus, to convert the island. Titus became the first bishop of
Crete. Little is known about the early years of Christianity in Crete, but by
the 3rd century persecution of Christians began in earnest. The first Christian
martyrs were the so-called Agii Deka (Ten Saints) killed in the village of the
same name in AD 250. You can take a virtual
In 324 Emperor Constantine I (also known as Constantine the Great), step-by-step video tour
a Christian convert, transferred the capital of the empire from Rome to of Knossos on the British
Byzantium, which was renamed Constantinople (now Ïstanbul). By the end Archaeological School at
of the 4th century, the Roman Empire was formally divided into western Athens website, www
and eastern sections; Crete, along with the rest of Greece, found itself in the .bsa.ac.uk.
eastern half. While Rome went into terminal decline, the eastern capital
grew, long outliving its western counterpart (the Byzantine Empire lasted
until the capture of Constantinople by the Turks in 1453).
Crete was a self-governing province in the Byzantine Empire with Gortyna
as its administrative and religious centre. Piracy decreased and trade flourished,
leaving the island wealthy enough to build many churches. Crete’s attachment
to the worship of icons provoked a revolt in 727 when Emperor Leo III banned
their worship as part of the iconoclastic movement. The uprising was smashed
and the Byzantine emperors unleashed a fierce wave of retribution.
Byzantine rule was interrupted around 824 when the Arabs conquered
Crete. The Arabs established a fortress called Chandax in what is now Iraklio,
essentially to store their pirated treasure. As the island’s criminal reputation
grew its economy dwindled and its cultural life ground to a halt.
The Byzantines were in no position to help Crete despite its strategic im-
portance. They had enough problems defending territories closer to home.

1453 1645 1669

Constantinople falls to the A huge Turkish force lands in After keeping the enemy at bay
Turks. Byzantine scholars and Hania, provoked by a pirate for 21 years, Iraklio (Candia)
intellectuals flee to Crete, attack on a Turkish ship off finally falls to the Turks. Crete
sparking a renaissance of Byz- the Cretan coast. The Turks falls under Ottoman rule, ex-
antine art. The Cretan School of establish their first foothold on cept for Spinalonga and Souda
icon painting emerges, com- the island. After Rethymno is (which fall in 1715). Mosques
bining Byzantine and Venetian defeated, the Turks secure the and Turkish monuments are
elements. western part of the island. built.
 30 H I S T O R Y • • Ve n e t i a n C re t e lonelyplanet.com

Not until the Byzantine general Nikiforos Fokas attacked Chandax in a bitter
siege in 960 did the Arabs finally yield.
History of Crete, by Theo- The Byzantines then lost no time in fortifying the Cretan coast and con-
haris E Detorakis, is an solidating their power. Chandax emerged as the island’s new capital and the
extraordinarily complete seat of the Cretan archdiocese.
guide to Cretan history The Orthodox Church has played a pivotal role in Crete’s history and pre-
from the Minoan times serving the culture and religion under successive invaders. Under Venetian
up to (but not including) rule, the Orthodox Church was dismantled and replaced with the Catholic
the Battle of Crete. Church and, ironically, it was the Ottomans who allowed the Cretans to
resurrect the Orthodox religion. Attempts to convert the local population
to Catholicism or Islam proved largely futile. Despite relentless persecution,
Orthodox monasteries remained hotbeds of resistance and kept the spirit
of national unity alive.

VENETIAN CRETE
The Genoese first moved in on Crete, but it was the Venetians who prevailed
in 1217. Crete was pivotal to Venetian control of the Mediterranean and re-
mained under Venetian rule until 1669, long after most of Greece had become
part of the Ottoman empire. The Venetian influence is evident throughout
the island, most notably in Hania, Iraklio, Rethymno, Sitia and Ierapetra,
where they built mansions and massive fortresses to guard the developing
port towns and harbours.
Venice colonised Crete with noble and military families, many of which
settled in Iraklio (Candia). During the first century of Venetian rule about
10,000 settlers came to Crete, induced by the seizure of the island’s best and
most fertile land. The Cretan owners now worked as serfs for their new
Venetian masters, who were not only the major land-holders but also held
political control.
Cretan peasants were ruthlessly exploited under Venetian rule, and op-
pressive taxation added to their woes. Religious life also suffered, as the
Venetians viewed the church as a symbol of national identity and supplanted
the Orthodox Church with the Catholic Church.
Cretans rebelled regularly against Venetian rule and met with brutal Vene-
tian reprisals. Eventually the rebellions forced concessions from Venice. By
the 15th century the Cretan and Venetian communities reached an uneasy
compromise that allowed Cretan cultural and economic life to flourish.
After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Crete became the last remain-
ing bastion of Hellenism. Byzantine scholars and intellectuals fled the
dying empire and settled in Crete, establishing schools, libraries and print-
ing presses. The cross-pollination between Byzantine traditions and the
flourishing Italian Renaissance sparked a major cultural revival, often
called the Cretan Renaissance. Poetry and drama flourished and a Cretan
School of icon painting (see p48) developed in the 16th and 17th centuries,

1770 1821 1828

Under their leader Daskalo- Greek War of Independence Resistance leader Micha-
giannis, 2000 Sfakians mount is declared. The insurgence lis Dalianis and 385 rebels
an assault on the Turks in spreads to Crete but Turkish- made an heroic last stand at
western Crete but the rebellion Egyptian forces outnumber the Frangokastello in one of the
is viciously suppressed. Daska- rebellion. Continued resistance bloodiest battles in the war
logiannis is skinned alive in the provokes fearsome massacres for independence. About 800
central square of Iraklio. of Cretan civilians. Turks are killed along with the
rebels.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • Tu r k i s h C re t e 31

combining Byzantine and Venetian elements. In the midst of this artistic

ferment, the painter Dominikos Theotokopoulos emerged, studying in
Italy before moving to Spain where he became known as El Greco (see the
boxed text, p49).

TURKISH CRETE
By the middle of the 17th century, resource-rich and strategically located
Crete became attractive to the expanding Ottoman empire and Venice was
too slow in rearranging their defences in the face of the looming threat.
Turkish forces landed in Hania in 1645, and although the fortress was
bravely defended it fell within two months. Rethymno was next, giving con-
trol of the west to the Turks. Candia’s massive walls kept the enemy at bay for
21 years, but the city finally fell in 1669, leaving the entire island in Turkish
hands (except for Spinalonga and Souda, which did not fall until 1715).
Life was not easy under the Ottomans, although they did allow the Ortho- ‘Rebellion
dox Church to reestablish itself and survive essentially intact during more was brew-
than 200 years of occupation. Nevertheless, there were tremendous political ing, though,
and economic advantages to embracing Islam. Mass conversions were com-
mon; sometimes entire villages changed their faith. as many
Economically, the Cretans were initially no better off under the Ottomans Cretans fled
than they were under the Venetians. The Ottomans devised ingenious taxes to the moun-
to wring every drop of wealth out of the island, and the economy degener-
ated to a subsistence level. Trade picked up, however, around the start of tains, harass-
the 18th century, and living standards improved. Crete exported grain, and ing the Turks
its abundance of olive oil launched a soap industry. with spo-
Rebellion was brewing, though, as many Cretans fled to the mountains,
harassing the Turks with sporadic attacks, particularly in the Sfakia region. radic attacks,
In 1770 under their leader Daskalogiannis, 2000 Sfakians mounted an assault particularly
upon the Turks in western Crete. Promised Russian aid never materialised in the Sfakia
and the rebellion was viciously suppressed. Daskalogiannis was skinned alive
in the central square of Iraklio. region. ’
When the Greek War of Independence spread to Crete in 1821, Sfakia was
once again the nucleus of rebellion, but the revolutionaries were hampered
by poor organisation and constant infighting. The Turks swiftly retaliated
with a wave of massacres primarily directed at the clergy.
Bogged down with fighting rebels in the Peloponnese and mainland
Greece, the Turks were forced to turn to Egypt for help in dealing with the
Cretans. Chronically short of arms and undisciplined, the Cretans fought
furiously but were outnumbered by the Turkish-Egyptian forces.
With the rest of Greece torn by war, Crete was left on its own and the revo-
lutionary movement largely flickered out, with sporadic outbreaks of fighting
provoking fearsome massacres of Cretan civilians. When an independent
Greek state was finally established in 1830, Crete was given to Egypt.

1830 1831 1832

The Great Powers give Crete Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first The Treaty of London declares
to Egypt. Egyptian rule brings elected governor of independ- an independent Kingdom of
some improvements, with ent Greece is assassinated by Greece and appoints Bavarian
Muslims and Christians treated political rivals. teenage Prince Otto as King of
equally, schools organised and Greece.
infrastructure rebuilt, but taxes
remain high and new protests
emerge.
 32 H I S T O R Y • • Tu r k i s h C re t e lonelyplanet.com

Egyptian rule initially brought improvements. An amnesty asked Cretans

to lay down their arms, Muslims and Christians were to be treated equally,
schools were organised and the authorities began rebuilding the island’s
infrastructure, though taxes remained high and new protests emerged. After
Egypt was defeated by the Turks in Syria, the Great Powers gave Crete back
to the Ottomans in 1840.
Under restored Ottoman rule, Cretans won important privileges allowing
more religious freedom, civil and property rights. But the Sultan’s repeated
violations of the new laws sparked yet another uprising and demand for
enosis, or union, with free Greece. Although Russia was partial to the Cretan
position, Great Britain and France preferred the status quo and refused any
help. Rallying around the slogan ‘Union or Death’, fighting broke out in
Mary Renault’s novels western Crete. Once again the Turks joined forces with the Egyptians and
The King Must Die and The attacked the civilian population. In 1866 about 900 rebels and their families
Bull from the Sea are vivid took refuge in Moni Arkadiou. When 2000 Turkish soldiers attacked the
tales of Minoan times building, rather than surrender, the Cretans set light to a store of gunpowder.
that provide an excellent The explosion killed almost everyone, Turks included.
feel for ancient Crete. The event shocked the world and the heroic stand gained the Cretan cause
worldwide sympathy. Despite demonstrations erupting throughout Europe,
Great Britain and France maintained a pro-Turkish stance. The Great Powers
forbade Greece from aiding the Cretan rebels and the revolution petered out.
The 1877 Russo-Turkish War prompted another uprising in Crete. Sensing
that Turkey might be defeated, the Greek government decided to support Crete.
Although the rebels seized major north-coast cities, the Berlin conference of
1878 resolving the Russo-Turkish War rejected Cretan union with Greece. Tur-
key made new concessions, turning Crete into a semi-autonomous province,
sanctioning Greek as the official language and granting a general amnesty.
In 1889 fierce political infighting within the Cretan parliament led to a new
rebellion against Turkish rule, prompting Turkey to return to the iron-fisted
policies of the past. In Sfakia, Manousos Koundouros formed a secret fraternity
to secure autonomy and eventual unification for Crete. They laid siege on the
Turkish garrison at Vamos, leading to violent reprisals and eventual intervention
by the Great Powers. The Turks were forced to agree to a new constitution.
When violence erupted again in 1896, the Greek government sent a small
force to the island and declared unification between Crete and Greece. The
Great Powers rejected the idea and blockaded the coast, refusing to allow
either the Turks or the Greeks to reinforce their position. Greece became
embroiled in a war with Turkey and recalled its forces. The Great Powers
appointed Prince George, son of King George of Greece, as high commis-
sioner of Crete.
In 1898 a detachment of British soldiers was implementing the transfer
of power in Iraklio when an enraged mob of Turks stormed through the city
slaughtering hundreds of Christian civilians – along with 17 British soldiers

1840 1866 1877

The Turks defeat Egypt and the About 2000 Turkish soldiers The Russo-Turkish War prompts
Great Powers give Crete back attack the Arkadi monastery, another uprising in Crete.
to the Ottomans. Crete wins where more than 900 rebels Greece supports Crete and
important new privileges but and their families shelter. Re- rebels seize major north-coast
repeated violations spark an- fusing to surrender, the Cretans cities but the Great Powers re-
other uprising and demand for light a store of gunpowder, ject Cretan union with Greece.
union. Great Britain and France setting off an explosion that Turkey turns Crete into a semi-
refuse to help. kills almost everyone. autonomous province.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • U n i o n w i t h G re e c e 33

and the British consul. The British swiftly rounded up 17 Turkish trouble-
makers, hanged them and sent a squadron of ships steaming into Iraklio har-
bour. The Turks were ordered out, finally ending Ottoman rule over Crete.
After the disastrous Greek invasion of Smyrna, the 1923 Treaty of Lausanne
called for a population exchange between Greece and Turkey to prevent fu-
ture disputes. Crete’s remaining Muslim population of about 30,000 people
was ordered off the island, abandoning their homes to the incoming Greek
refugees. Ironically, many of them were Christians who had converted.
Few legacies of Turkish rule survive in Crete. The most prominent
are the old mosque in Hania harbour and the minarets and mosques in
Rethymno, as well as remnants of Ottoman architecture in the cities’ old
Turkish quarters.

UNION WITH GREECE

With the Ottomans gone, Crete was placed under international administra-
tion, but union with Greece remained an insatiable desire and would take
some years to achieve. A new movement coalesced around the charismatic
Hania-born Eleftherios Venizelos, one of the most important figures in Greek
and Cretan politics. Venizelos was Prince George’s minister of justice and
a member of the Cretan Assembly. In the face of Prince George’s stubborn
refusal to consider unification, Venizelos convened a revolutionary assembly
in Theriso, near Hania, in 1905, raising the Greek flag and declaring unity
with Greece.
Venizelos then set up a rival government to administer the island. The
rebellion spread, forcing the Great Powers to concede that Prince George
had lost all support. King George appointed a new governor but the populace
continued to agitate for unification.
In 1908 the Cretan assembly declared unity with Greece, but the Greek
government refused to allow Cretan deputies to sit in the Greek parliament.
Even though Venizelos had become prime minister, Greece remained fearful
of antagonising Turkey and the Great Powers who were adamantly opposed
to the plan. Not until Greece, Serbia and Bulgaria declared war on the Ot-
toman Empire over Macedonia in the first Balkan War (1912) were Cretans
finally allowed into the Greek Parliament. When the war ended, the 1913
Treaty of Bucharest formally recognised Crete as part of the Greek state.

WWII & THE BATTLE OF CRETE For all things ancient and
When German troops marched through Yugoslavia and invaded Greece Greek, try the great web
on 6 April 1941, the country was rapidly overrun. Greek leader Emmanouil portal www.ancient
Tsouderos set up a government in exile in his native Crete. greece.com.
With all available Greek troops fighting the Italians in Albania, Greece
asked Britain to help defend Crete. Churchill obliged, as he was determined
to make a stand and block Germany’s advance through southeastern Europe.

1889 1896 1898

Fierce political infighting within Violence erupts again. The Turks storm through Iraklio
the Cretan parliament sparks Greek government sends a slaughtering hundreds of
a new rebellion and the Great force and declares unification Christian civilians, 17 British
Powers eventually force the with Crete. The Great Powers soldiers and the British consul.
Turks to agree to a new con- reject the idea. Greece recalls The British order the Turks out
stitution. its forces and the Great Powers and Crete is placed under inter-
appoint Prince George as high national administration. Hania
commissioner of Crete. becomes the capital.
 34 H I S T O R Y • • P o s t w a r C re t e lonelyplanet.com

More than 30,000 British, Australian and New Zealand troops poured into
the last remaining part of free Greece, two thirds of them evacuated from
mainland Greece.
Prince Philip, the Duke of The Allies were in a poor position to defend the island, since commitments
Edinburgh, was part of in the Middle East were already draining military resources. The island’s
the Greek royal family – defences had been seriously neglected. There were few fighter planes and
born in Corfu as Prince military preparation was hampered by six changes of command in the first
Philip of Greece and six months of 1941. Crete’s difficult terrain also meant the only viable ports
Denmark in 1921. Former were on the exposed northern coast, while inadequate roads precluded
King of Greece Constan- resupplying the army from the more protected southern ports.
tine is Prince William’s Hitler was determined to seize Crete and use it as an air base to attack
godfather and Prince British forces in the eastern Mediterranean. In a stunning disregard for
Charles’ third cousin. Crete’s rebellious history, Hitler actually believed that German forces would
be welcomed by the native population. They were not.
After a week-long aerial bombardment, Hitler launched the world’s first
airborne invasion on 20 May, starting what became known as the Battle of
Crete, one of the decisive battles of the war. Aiming to capture the airport at
Maleme 17km west of Hania, thousands of parachutists floated down over
Hania, as well as Rethymno and Iraklio.
Distinguished British Elderly men, women and children grabbed rifles, old shotguns, sickles and
archaeologist John whatever else they could find to defend their homeland. German casualties
Pendlebury, who took were appalling, but they managed to capture the Maleme airfield on the first
over Arthur Evans’ work day and, despite the valiant defence, the Allies lost the battle within 10 days.
at Knossos, was executed
by the Germans in 1941 POSTWAR CRETE
while fighting with the When the external threat of war and foreign occupation finally ended, Greece
Cretan Resistance. He is and the Allies were left to deal with the fraught internal politics of the na-
buried at the Allied war tion. The mainland resistance had been dominated by communists. Winston
cemetery in Souda. Churchill wanted the king back and was afraid of a communist takeover.
The 1946 election, which was boycotted by the communists, was won by the
royalists with British backing. A rigged plebiscite put George II back on the
throne and a brutal and divisive civil war broke out, lasting until 1949.
Crete was largely spared the bloodshed and bitterness that left Greece
a political and economic basket case in the 1950s. The close cooperation
Crete: The Battle and the
between the Cretans and British soldiers left the islanders with strong pro-
Resistance, by Antony
British sentiments, leaving little room for communist infiltration.
Beevor, is a short and
In 1967 Greece was thrown into turmoil again when a group of army
readable analysis of the
colonels staged a coup d’état, which established a military junta that imposed
Allied defeat.
martial law, abolished all political parties, banned trade unions, imposed
censorship, and imprisoned, tortured and exiled thousands of Greeks who
opposed it. Cretan resentment towards the colonels intensified when the
colonels muscled through major tourist development projects on the island
that were rife with favouritism.

1900 1905 1908

Arthur Evans begins excava- A revolutionary assembly in The Cretan assembly declares
tions at Knossos, quickly Theriso declares unity with unity with Greece, but Cretan
unearthing the palace and Greece. Venizelos sets up a deputies are not allowed to sit
stunning the archaeological rival government to administer in the Greek parliament until
world with the discovery of the the island. The Great Powers 1912.
advanced Minoan civilisation. concede Prince George’s loss
of support and appoint a new
governor of Crete.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • D e m o c r a c y & M o d e r n G re e c e 35

Suspicions that the coup had been aided by the CIA remain conjectural, but
the US silence on the coup and the ensuing regime did not alter the perception
of US involvement, which has left a residue of anti-American feeling.
In 1974 Turkish forces invaded Cyprus following a botched junta-sponsored
attempt to depose Cyprus’ president, Archbishop Makarios. Discredited by
the invasion, the junta was quickly dismantled.
The ban on communist parties was lifted and Kostas Karamanlis’ right- Apart from the fatal tsu-
wing New Democracy (ND) party won the 1974 elections. A national plebi- nami that wiped out the
scite voted 69% against restoration of the monarchy. Greece became a Minoans, Crete was hit by
pluralist democratic republic and entered an unprecedented era of stability, a far smaller tsunami in
peace and growth. That same year, the former Greek king and royal family 1956 at Palekastro. Locals
fled to London where they live amongst the aristocracy, although they were recall the massive wave
stripped of most of their Greek assets in a long-running property dispute. coming in and dumping
tonnes of fish in their
DEMOCRACY & MODERN GREECE vineyards.
While it is positively dull in comparison to the past, contemporary Greek
politics remains robust and colourful, with plenty of personal and financial
scandals and regular accusations of graft, corruption and nepotism.
Since the mid-1970s, Crete’s fortunes have been inextricably linked with
the political, social and economic developments of mainland Greece, riding
both the booms and the economic downturns.

FIGHTING SPIRIT
The rebellious spirit of the Cretans has been a feature of Crete’s long history of resistance to
foreign occupation, particularly the heroic stances taken against the Venetians and the Turks.
Nikos Kazantzakis vividly portrays the fighting Cretan spirit in his book based on a 19th-century
Cretan Resistance fighter during the Turkish occupation in Freedom and Death.
More recently, the valiant Cretan spirit won them the endearing admiration of British, Aus-
tralian and New Zealand troops who fought in Crete during WWII. After the battle of Crete, the
Cretans risked German reprisals by hiding thousands of Allied soldiers and helping them get to
the south to escape across the Libyan Sea. Allied undercover agents supplied from North Africa
coordinated the guerrilla warfare waged by the Cretan fighters, known as andartes. Allied soldiers
and Cretans alike were under constant threat from the Nazis while they lived in caves, sheltered
in monasteries such as Preveli, trekked across peaks or unloaded cargo on the southern coast.
Among them was celebrated author Patrick Leigh Fermor, who lived in the mountains for two
years with the Cretan Resistance and was involved in the daring kidnapping of German com-
mander General Kreipe in 1944.
German reprisals against the civilian population were fierce. Cities were bombed, villages burnt
down and men, women and children lined up and shot. When the Germans finally surrendered
in 1945 they insisted on surrendering to the British, fearing that the Cretans would inflict upon
them some of the same punishment they had suffered for four years.

1913 1921 1941

Greece and Crete are officially Greek troops in Smyrna at- Germany invades Greece and
united under the Treaty of tack the Turks, but are routed Allied troops arrive to defend
Bucharest. and many Greek inhabitants Crete. Germany launches an
are massacred. In the ensuing airborne invasion to capture
population exchange, Crete’s the airport at Maleme, west of
30,000 Turks are ordered off Hania, in the famous Battle of
the island, while Greeks from Crete. Allied soldiers are evacu-
Smyrna arrive in Crete. ated from Hora Sfakion.
36 H I S T O R Y • • D e m o c r a c y & M o d e r n G re e c e lonelyplanet.com

WAR MEMORIALS
The Battle of Crete had a monumental impact on the outcome of the WWII, and the massive
casualties on all sides make it a significant war memorial pilgrimage. Every May, war veterans
from Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand and Greece attend commemoration celebrations held
throughout Crete.
Major anniversaries include a reenactment of the airborne invasion at Maleme, west of Hania.
Participation of those who served on Crete has dwindled with time, but the anniversaries remain
important memorials for Greeks and Allied ex-servicemen and there are regular battlefield tours
of Crete. More than 1500 Allied soldiers are buried at the immaculate Souda Bay War Cemetery
near Hania. Ironically, one of the long-term caretakers of the German war cemetery at Maleme,
where 4500 soldiers are buried, was the late George Psychoundakis, the former shepherd boy
whose story about being a runner during the German occupation is told in The Cretan Runner.
There are also war memorials across the island, including a striking monument overlooking the
cliffs at Moni Preveli and at Stravromenos on the north coast of Rethymno.

Andreas Papandreou’s PASOK party – which formed Greece’s first socialist

government – dominated Greek politics for two decades after it was elected in
1981. Papandreou’s populist pledge to remove US bases and withdraw from
NATO was especially popular in Crete, given the islanders’ strong antipathy
to the presence of foreign troops. US presence on the island was reduced,
though there are still American and NATO bases operating in Crete and the
US naval base at Souda Bay is a regular target for protests.
After Greece joined the EU in 1981 (then the EEC), Crete’s farmers ben-
efited from EU subsidies, and the island’s cultural and tourism infrastructure
development was also bolstered. Tourism boomed with direct charter flights
to Crete, almost tripling tourist arrivals between 1981 and 1991.
The charismatic Papandreou’s significant reforms were marred by
numerous scandals, including his public affair with a younger air hostess
(whom he later married) and a financial scandal in the late ’80s involving
the Bank of Crete, in which Papandreou and four ministers were charged
with embezzlement (all were later acquitted).
The ND party enjoyed a brief stint in government from 1990 when
Konstantinos Mitsotakis, a Cretan, was elected prime minister, but
corruption allegations and internal divisions returned PASOK to power
three years later.
In 1996 Papandreou’s ailing health finally forced him to step down as
PASOK leader, ending a colourful era in Greek politics. His successor Costas
Simitis, a straight-laced technocrat and economic reformer, led PASOK in
a dramatic change of direction that included privatisation and reform of
Greece’s notorious public sector. Securing the 2004 Olympic Games brought
a flood of money into Greece for infrastructure improvements, but Simitis’

1944 1946–49 1951

The Cretan guerrilla resistance Greek civil war breaks out be- Greece joins NATO. Military
kidnaps German commander tween communists and right- bases are established on Crete.
General Kreipe and, aided by wing royalists. The communists
the Allies, sends him to Egypt, fail to infiltrate Crete, which is
sparking fierce German repris- largely spared the bloodshed
als. Cities are bombed, villages and bitterness that engulfs
annihilated and civilians, includ- Greece.
ing children, lined up and shot.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • C re t e T o d a y 37

austerity packages – designed to whip Greece into fiscal shape in prepara-

tion for full membership of the European Monetary Union in 2002 – caused
much discontent, as did major post-euro rises in the cost of living after the
introduction of the euro. Simitis handed the reins to Foreign Minister George
Papandreou, son of Andreas, in January 2004 but despite Papandreou’s politi-
cal pedigree and personal popularity – particularly in Crete – he was unable Crete has produced two
to save PASOK from a thumping defeat in two months later. of independent Greece’s
Kostas Karamanlis’ ND party got the glory of presiding over the success- prime ministers, Elefth-
ful Athens 2004 Olympic Games, which became less about the sport and erios Venizelos (several
more about Greece proving it was a modern, developed nation, rather than times between 1910 and
the European backwater it had been seen. In the post-Olympics chapter of 1933) and Konstantinos
Greek history, ND did not make much headway in its efforts to get the Greek Mitsotakis (1990–93).
economy into shape in the face of the Olympics cost blow-outs, Greece’s
premature (and rigged) entry into the euro zone, rising unemployment and
inflation as well as attempts to reforms labour laws, social security, education
and push through privatisation.
In the summer of 2007, Greece plunged into an environmental and
political crisis brought on by the massive fires that destroyed vast tracts
of the country and killed 65 people. Yet, the ND government scraped back
into power in the September national elections, with voters abandoning
the major parties. The communist (KKE) party numbers were boosted and
the nationalist LAOS party gained 10 seats, the first far-right party to enter
the Greek Parliament since the end of military rule more than 30 years ago.
PASOK leader George Papandreou’s was left fighting a leadership challenge
by party veteran Evangelos Venizelos (remarkably not apparently related to
the famous Greek statesman).

CRETE TODAY
In this unprecedented era of peace and stability, Crete has become one
of Greece’s most dynamic and prosperous islands and a major economic
powerhouse. The annual tourist invasion – more than two million visitors,
the majority from Germany and the UK – has overtaken agriculture as the
dominant industry.
Crete has been a major beneficiary of EU infrastructure programmes and
agricultural subsidies and more recently, grants to promote green tourism
and preserve cultural heritage through restoration of historic buildings
and traditional settlements. With increased urbanisation, its towns have
prospered, while the island has also evolved into a major research cen-
tre, with several university campuses and research institutes, and a large
student population.
Island development has been haphazard however, partly because Crete
has no centralised government and the island’s four prefectures operate
virtually independently, and often competitively. It remains resentful of

1967 1971 1974

Army colonels stage a coup Iraklio resumes its position as Turkish forces invade Cyprus
and impose martial law across the island’s capital. following a botched junta-spon-
Greece. Cretan resentment sored attempt to depose Arch-
towards the junta intensifies bishop Makarios, the president
when the colonels muscle of Cyprus. The junta falls and
through major tourist develop- democracy is restored to Crete.
ment projects on the island The monarchy is abolished and
that are rife with favouritism. the royal family exiled.
 38 H I S T O R Y • • C re t e T o d a y lonelyplanet.com

outside control from Athens, while complex regional politics is based on

family and patronage as much as party affiliation, as well as who looks after
local interests best. Crete remains a key PASOK stronghold, significantly
outpolling ND at national elections.
Crete’s often conflicting interests and divisions are now between the
north coast tourist zone and the less developed south, between fertile and
wealthy agricultural regions such as central Iraklio region and the southeast
Lasithi greenhouse zone, and between poorer remote rural communities and
increasingly sophisticated towns.
Crete’s tourism doubled again between 1990 and 2000, largely due to the
cheap package tourism boom, but the trend is causing much dismay among
the rest of the industry who see few benefits and the impact on the island’s
environment and resources. The need for sustainable tourism is becoming
increasingly critical.
‘Crete’s The lack of planning and regulation is most evident in the overdeveloped
tourism north coast tourist zones, which have reached saturation point, while on the
doubled schizophrenic southeast coast you’ll see hotels built next to ugly greenhouses
right on the coast. (Crete has 50% of Greece’s greenhouses but along with
again prosperity, anecdotal evidence suggests health problems and cancer rates in
between the Lasithi region have risen due to pesticide use.)
1990 and The extension of the national highway to Sitia is considered pivotal to
regional development of the east, but controversial tourism projects planned
2000…’ around Vai have locals divided, while major growth in the expanding beach
resorts around Platanias in Hania suggest lessons have not been learnt.
An alternative push for more sustainable green tourism – the potential
of which has not been tapped – as well as agrotourism and more upmarket
holidays has led to an increase in special-interest activities such as extreme
sports, spas, golf, cultural tourism and culinary and winery tours. Overall
the industry has had to shape up and become more professional than the
sideline build-it-and-they-will-come approach of the past.
In recent years there has been an increased focus on preserving Crete’s
cultural identity and traditions in the face of globalisation. While en-
vironmental issues are gaining more prominence, consciousness is still
very low.
Agriculture remains a major force and way of life. While Crete has one
of Greece’s highest levels of organic farming, it represents only a tiny per-
centage of the industry.
Easier access to the mainland, better work and education opportunities
and lifestyles have made Crete a more attractive place to live. The tide of
young people moving away from the island has started to stem, while small
but steady stream of people are abandoning Athens for life on Crete. A
boom in holiday and retirement homes for Europeans has seen real estate
prices skyrocket.

1981 1990 1993

Greece becomes the 10th Cretan Konstantinos Mitsotakis PASOK returns to power.
member of the EEC. Greeks is elected prime minister when Andreas Papandreou resigns in
elect the first PASOK socialist New Democracy (ND) narrowly 1996 due to ill health, ending
government, led by Andreas wins government. His economic an era in Greek politics. Costas
Papandreou. reforms are unpopular in Crete. Simitis takes over and intro-
A breakaway party is formed duces austerity measures and
after corruption allegations, reforms continuing PASOK ‘s
ending ND’s capacity to govern. long reign.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • C re t e T o d a y 39

FAMILY AFFAIRS
The Greek political landscape has been characterised as a hereditary democracy, with two families
dominating the modern leadership of the country. (Earlier political dynasties included Venizelos
and the Rallis clan).
Current New Democracy (ND) leader and prime minister Kostas Karamanlis is the nephew
and namesake of former prime minister and president, who dominated Greek politics in the
later 20th century.
Enigmatic PASOK founder Andreas Papandreou, whose colourful reign as prime minister spanned
more than 12 years, was the son of George Papandreou, prime minister in 1944 and 1963–65.
Andreas’s son George, a former foreign minister, is the current PASOK leader.
Cretan-born former ND prime minister Konstantinos Mitsotakis’ son Kyriakos is an ND MP; his
charismatic daughter Dora is foreign minister (and former mayor of Athens) and widely tipped
as a future leader. She entered politics after her husband Pavlos Bakoyiannis, also an ND MP, was
assassinated by the 17 November (N17) terrorist organisation.

The biggest population shift, however, has been the economic migrants
who now do much of the agricultural and building work, while seasonal
workers in the tourism sector means your waiter is just as likely to be
from Poland than Sfakia.
Preserving Crete’s unique character and environment in the face of
rapid social and economic changes sweeping the island will be the island’s
greatest challenge as it enters the next era of its colourful history.

2002 2004 2007

Greece becomes a full member ND, under Kostas Karamanlis, Weeks after fires ravage
of the European Monetary wins power. Greece wins the Greece, Kostas Karamanlis’s
Union and the drachma is European Soccer champion- ND is reelected. PASOK is
replaced by the euro. ship. Athens hosts a successful routed and the minor parties
Olympic Games. gain more seats, including the
communist party (KKE) and the
right-wing nationalist LAOS
party.
 40

The Culture
REGIONAL IDENTITY
The Cretans are a very distinctive clan of Greeks, with their own spirited
music and dances, distinct cuisine and traditions. Proud, patriotic yet fa-
mously hospitable, Cretans uphold an undeniable connection to their culture.
They will always identify as Cretans before they say they are Greek, and even
within different parts of Crete people maintain strong regional identities.
This becomes particularly apparent when you leave the commercialised
major tourist centres. In rural areas, many Cretans still speak a local dialect
or have a distinct accent.
Centuries of battling foreign occupiers have left the island with a stub-
bornly independent streak that sometimes leads to clashes with Athens.
National laws that conflict with local customs are often disregarded. Guns,
for example, are strictly regulated in Greece, yet the evidence suggests Cretans
are stashing an astounding arsenal (see the boxed text, p43).
Nevertheless, the Cretan people have a well-justified reputation for hospi-
tality and for treating strangers as honoured guests, a gesture of pride (and a
hangover of historical territorialism) rather than subservience.
Obviously Cretans are no longer offering free food and lodging to mil-
lions of tourists a year, but if you wander off the beaten track into mountain
villages you may well be invited into someone’s home for a coffee or even a
meal. In a café or taverna it is customary for people to treat another group of
friends or strangers to a round of drinks (however, be mindful that it is not
the done thing to treat them straight back – in theory you do the honours
another time).
Cretan society is deeply influenced by the Greek Orthodox Church and
its rituals and celebrations (see p213 for a list of festivals and events). It
maintains strong family ties and a sense of family honour. Crete’s infamous
vendettas, while increasingly rare, have not entirely ended (see the boxed
text, p97).
Cretan weddings and baptisms are still huge affairs, and while shooting pis-
Harvard anthropologist
tols in the air is becoming more politically incorrect (and dangerous – people
Michael Herzfeld makes
have been accidentally hit and killed), it is still common in some areas, where
interesting anthropo-
bullet-riddled road signs are a characteristic part of the landscape.
logical observations of
Rivalries between the prefectures are strong. As the island’s capital until
Cretans in The Poetics of
1971, Hania considers itself the historical heart of the island, while Rethymno
Manhood: Contest and
claims to be its cultural centre.
Manhood in a Cretan
The dominant political ideology is left-of-centre with the socialist PASOK
Village, while A Place in
party repeatedly outdrawing the conservative New Democracy (ND) party
History looks at life in
in local and national elections.
and around Rethymno,
Cretans remain very ethnocentric, while anti-Americanism is another
including issues such as
interesting undercurrent. Apart from general resistance to American he-
the Cretan vendetta.
gemony, it originates from what many regard as undue US interference
in Greek affairs during the civil war, suspected CIA involvement in the
colonels’ coup of 1967, US indifference over Cyprus, and its interventions
in the Middle East and the Balkans. In Crete this sentiment often culminates
in protests over the US military base at Souda or is demonstrated in more
subtle ways such as refusing to serve Coke. While there is often heated and
forthright objection to American foreign policy, the ire is ideological and
not extended to American tourists.
Cretans who migrated to Athens or overseas (far fewer than in other
regions of Greece) maintain strong cultural and family links, returning
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • L i fe s t y l e 41

CULTURAL TIES: IOANNA KARYSTIANI

Hania-born author Ioanna Karystiani has lived in Athens since she was 18, but her heart has never
left Crete. She regularly returns to Hania to spend time with her family, who moved to Crete
from Turkey in the 1920s population exchange. ‘I sit in a room with my parents who are in their
90s now and hold them in my arms, my mother on the right, my father on the left, talking and
telling mandinades (traditional rhyming couplets),’ she says.
Karystiani, one of the Polytechnic generation who revolted against the colonels in 1973, is a
former political cartoonist who turned to writing later in life. She is author of the 2004 movie
Brides; her novel Koustoumi sto Homa is based on a family vendetta in Sfakia, the harsh mountain
stronghold of the Cretan Resistance.
Karystiani, 55, believes a land and its history and language feeds the next generation and
shapes its character.
‘Cretans are fiery characters. The diversity and ruggedness of the land and the history of all
the revolutions and wars has played a role in that. The Minoan civilisation was peaceful. In later
years the hardship of life and the constant invaders have made the Cretans harsh and unique.
They have a great pride in their land, which is often demonstrated positively; sometimes it can
be expressed in a narrow, parochial way, with a sense of superiority, but most people are not
like that.’
While in many other parts of Greece, traditional songs and music have been lost in the quest
to become contemporary Europeans or not to be seen as retrograde, the Cretans, she says, have
by and large maintained their culture.
‘In Crete there are thousands of children who learn how to play lyra and learn Cretan dances
and are not embarrassed at all. They may also love rock, but they still tell and compose mandi-
nades, and sing and dance and celebrate in the old way. They have brought that part of their
culture into the present because it warms their hearts; it still speaks to them.’

regularly. Even the island’s most remote villages are bustling during holidays,
elections and other excuses for family reunions and homecomings.

LIFESTYLE
The Cretan lifestyle has changed dramatically in the past 30 years, the most
obvious change being that life has got a lot easier. Cretan society has be-
come increasingly urbanised, living standards have improved significantly,
Cretans are conspicuously wealthier and the towns are full of sophisticated
restaurants, bars and clubs.
Cretans pride themselves on their capacity to enjoy life. You will see them
dressed up and going out en masse for their evening volta (stroll), and filling
cafés and restaurants.
Like most households in Greece, the Cretans have felt the brunt of higher
living costs since the introduction of the euro. Eating out has become much
more expensive, although there are still many reasonably priced tavernas in
Crete, particularly in the villages. Greece has the highest
Cretans often deal with the seasonal invasion of foreign tourists by largely number of smokers in the
operating in a different time-space continuum from their guests. They will EU and they smoke any-
often tell you a particular place is ‘only for tourists’, and that’s normally where at any time. While
your cue to avoid it. smoking restrictions have
From April to around October, many live in the hurly-burly of the coastal been introduced with
resorts – running shops, pensions or tavernas – and then return to their some success in public
traditional life in the hills for the autumn olive and grape harvests. areas, nonsmoking areas
While tourists eat early in the evening in restaurants along a harbour or in restaurants are still
beach, Cretans drive out to a village taverna for a dinner that begins around a rarity.
11pm. Often these tavernas produce their own meat and vegetables, saving
on business costs and at the same time providing better food.
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DOS & DON’TS

Crete is a pretty laid-back destination but there are some cultural sensitivities to respect, par-
ticularly outside the main tourist resorts.
Always dress appropriately when visiting a church or monastery. Women should wear skirts
that reach below the knees, men should wear long trousers and arms, shoulders and cleavage
should be covered (it is always handy to carry a sarong).
Topless sunbathing is allowed in most places in Crete and nudism is tolerated at some remote
beaches, though you should take the cue from people around you or check for signs asking you
to keep your gear on (p103), especially if you are near a church or monastery or in a family area.
Just because it’s hot, doesn’t mean men should walk around towns and villages without their
shirts, just like you wouldn’t at home.
If you are wondering why some villages and towns seem like ghost towns in the middle of
the day, it’s because things shut down for mesimeri, the post-lunch siesta time (3pm to 5pm).
Try to be quiet during these times and never call on anyone at home.
While Cretans can probably drink you under the table, public drunkenness is frowned upon.
Cretans take their hospitality seriously so if you are treated to a drink or meal, accept it graciously
as rejecting it can cause offence.
Do try to learn a few words of Greek, it’s always appreciated.

Generational and rural-city divides are another feature of modern Crete.

In rural areas you will see shepherds with their flock in the mountains
and men congregating in the kafeneia (coffee house) after their siesta.
Mountain villages are repositories of traditional culture and you’ll find
that many older women and many men are still clad in black garb (a
symbol of mourning).
But even pastoral life has changed. While people still live off the land – and
provide for their families in the cities – subsistence farming has mostly given
way to commercial production. Though you will still see the odd donkey, it
has been replaced by the monstrous 4WD pick-up trucks and foreign workers
do most of the grunt work.
The younger generation of Cretans is highly educated and most speak
English and often German as well.
In the shift from living a largely poor, agrarian existence to becoming
increasingly sophisticated urban dwellers, Cretans are also delicately balanc-
ing cultural and religious mores.
Cretan society is still relatively conservative and it is uncommon for Greeks
to move out of home until they are married, apart from leaving temporarily
to study or work. The reasons for this are practical as well as cultural – most
will get a house when they get married and who wants to do their own wash-
ing and cooking anyway?

ECONOMY
Crete has ridden the wave of Greece’s economic growth in the past five
years, and the increased availability of credit, has sparked a frenzied, if ulti-
mately unsustainable, consumer spending boom. On the other hand, most
households have felt the brunt of higher living costs since Greece joined the
Euro Zone in 2001.
Indeed, Crete’s per capita GDP and investment levels have been higher
than the national average. Crete also has the highest rate of self-employed
people in Greece (and amongst the highest in the EU). Crete’s farmers have
reaped the benefits of EU membership, but tourism has replaced agricul-
ture as the island’s dominant economic activity. Crete is nonetheless one of
Greece’s biggest producers of olives and olive oil, vegetables (potatoes and
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n 43

TRIGGER-HAPPY
Sitting in a café in Askyfou one afternoon, a man at the next table pulls out a semi-automatic
pistol and fires a few rounds, just for fun. Late one night after a festival near Lissos, gunshots
ring out every time the group of merry Cretans on the beach finishes a song. At Cretan wed-
dings and celebrations, volleys of gunshots – and accidents from stray bullets – have become
so common that many musicians refuse to play in certain areas unless they get an assurance
that there won’t be any guns.
In 2004 acclaimed composer Mikis Theodorakis led a campaign trying to change the island’s
gun culture, but Cretans have not laid down their arms. Conservative estimates indicate one in
two Cretans owns a gun, while others suggest there could be over one million weapons on Crete –
more than the island’s population.
Road signs riddled with bullet holes are the first inkling that you are entering the somewhat
lawless mountain country that was historically a stronghold for Crete’s Resistance fighters, par-
ticularly around Sfakia and Mylopotamos province in Rethymno. A history of turmoil and invad-
ers has made Cretans determined not to give up their guns, even though in theory the same
restrictions apply in Crete as the rest of Greece.
The endemic, machismo gun-ownership – and the act of shooting off a few rounds – is tradi-
tionally seen as an act of independence and pride (these days it’s also a reckless show of excess
and an expensive habit).
But gun mania is not just a cultural or historic hangover. Feuding and raiding is rife in the
‘devil’s triangle’ of Anogia, Zoniana and Livadia, a notorious centre for illegal arms and drugs,
the deep ravines being a haven for concealing cannabis crops.

tomatoes), oranges and wine, largely produced in fertile areas such as Irak-
lio’s Mesara plain. The massive spread of greenhouses in southern Lasithi
have made the region prosperous. Stock breeding of sheep and goats is the
other major sector.
Crete has reaped the benefits of EU membership, while tourism has more
than doubled since 1990, accounting for 40 per cent of jobs in the region and
overtaking agriculture is some areas as the dominant industry.

POPULATION
Crete is Greece’s most populous island with more than 600,000 residents.
About 42% of the population live in Crete’s main cities and urban centres, With an estimated 34
with about 45% living in rural regions. Close to 49% of the population million olive trees in
live in the Iraklio prefecture, which is double the size of the next biggest Crete, it works out to 62
town, Hania. olive trees for every man,
woman and child.
MULTICULTURALISM
After the exodus of Crete’s Turkish community in the population exchange
of 1923, Crete became essentially homogenous, and its population virtually
all Greek Orthodox. More recently Crete has become home to a significant
population of migrants from the Balkans and Eastern Europe, who have
become an economic necessity in the agriculture, construction and tourism
sectors. The majority are from Albania.
Economic migrants are a relatively new phenomenon for Crete which,
like most of Greece, is struggling to come to terms with the new reality
and concepts of multiculturalism. While there are tensions and mistrust,
migrants appear to have fared better in Crete than in many other parts of
Greece.
A small group of English, Germans and northern European refugees
have also settled and bought property on Crete, though they live on the
more affluent fringes. Foreign women married to Cretan men, a particularly
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common occurrence in the 1980s, are another characteristic minority group

in Cretan society.

SPORT
Football (soccer) is the most popular sport in Crete, followed by basketball.
Cretan men are avid sports fans and Crete fields two teams in the Greek
national league. If you happen to be eating in a taverna on a night when a
big match is being televised, expect indifferent service. Crete hosted the 2004
Olympic soccer preliminaries at Iraklio’s massive Pankritio stadium.

RELIGION
Personal questions are The Orthodox faith is the official and prevailing religion of Crete and a key
not considered rude element of Greek identity, ethnicity and culture. There is a prevailing view
in Crete, so don’t be that to be Greek is to be Orthodox. While the younger generation isn’t neces-
surprised if you are sarily devout, nor attends church regularly, most observe the rituals and con-
grilled about your age, sider the faith integral to their identity. Between 94% and 97% of the Greek
salary, marital status etc, population belongs at least nominally to the Greek Orthodox Church.
and given sympathy if After Constantine the Great officially recognised Christianity in AD 313
you are over 25 and not (converted by a vision of the Cross), he transferred the capital of the Roman
married. Empire to Byzantium (today’s Ïstanbul) in AD 330. By the 8th century, differ-
ences of opinion and increasing rivalry emerged between the pope in Rome
and the patriarch of the Hellenised Eastern Roman Empire. One dispute was
over the wording of the Creed, which stated that the Holy Spirit proceeds
‘from the Father’, but Rome added ‘and the Son’. Other points of difference
included Rome decreeing priests had to be celibate, while Orthodox priests
could marry before becoming ordained, and the Orthodox Church forbid-
ding wine and oil during Lent.
Their differences became irreconcilable, and in the great schism of 1054
the pope and the patriarch went their separate ways as the Orthodox Church
(orthodoxy means ‘right belief’) and Roman Catholic Church.
The Greek Orthodox Church is closely related to the Russian Orthodox
Church; together they form the third-largest branch of Christianity.
During Ottoman times membership of the Orthodox Church was one
of the most important criteria in defining a Greek. The Orthodox religion
For a useful but by no held Cretan culture together during the many dark centuries of repression,
means exhaustive listing despite numerous, largely futile efforts by the Venetians and Turks to turn
of books about Crete with the Cretans towards Catholicism and Islam.
reviews, visit www.hel The year is centred on the saint’s days and festivals of the church calen-
lenicbookservice.co.uk. dar. Name days (celebrating your namesake saint) are celebrated more than
birthdays, and baptisms are an important rite. Most people are named after
a saint, as are boats, suburbs and train stations.
There are hundreds of tiny churches dotted around the countryside, pre-
dominantly built by individual families, dedicated to particular saints. The
tiny roadside iconostases or chapels you see everywhere are either shrines to
people who died in road accidents or similar dedications to saints.
The Orthodox Church of Crete is independent from the Greek Orthodox
Church and answers directly to the Patriarch of Constantinople.
Regrettably, many small churches and chapels are kept locked nowadays,
but it’s usually easy enough to locate the caretakers, who will be happy to
open them for you.

GENDER ROLES
The role of women in Cretan society is complex and shifting, and throws up
some interesting paradoxes. While traditional gender roles are prevalent in
rural areas and among the older generation, things have become much more
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EASTER IN CRETE
Easter is the year’s most important religious event and a good time to be in Crete. Many age-
old ceremonies and rituals take place throughout Holy Week, culminating in the Resurrection of
Christ on the eve of Easter Sunday.
This is a week of strict fasting and many tavernas will only serve special Lenten fare, par-
ticularly on Good Friday (though in Crete there is a tradition of seafood suppers after Friday’s
church service). Eggs are dyed red (symbolising the blood of Christ) in preparation for the post-
Resurrection celebrations.
On Good Friday an epitafio (bier) representing the body of Christ is decorated with flowers and
carried through the streets in a sombre but moving candle-lit procession. In larger towns such as
Iraklio, several churches will time their procession so that the biers meet at a central point.
The climax of the week is the Saturday evening resurrection service, when crowds spill out of
church into streets and squares. Just before midnight the lights are extinguished until the priest
appears with the holy light, which is spread through the candles of the congregation. At midnight
the priest announces Hristos Anesti (Christ has risen) and fireworks and gunshots herald the start
of feasting that lasts through Easter Sunday. The poignant and beautiful ceremony is the most
significant moment in the Orthodox year, for it symbolises the Resurrection. Worshippers make their
way home, trying to keep their candle lit so they can bless their house with the holy light.
The Lenten fast ends immediately after church, with a traditional supper of mayiritsa (tripe
soup), served in tavernas and homes. On Easter Sunday you will see spit-roast lambs cooking
everywhere – even on the side of the road in villages – which is a key part of the festivities.

liberal for younger women in cities and large towns. Old attitudes towards
the ‘proper role’ for women are changing fast as more women are educated
and entering the workforce.
Despite the machismo, Cretan society is essentially matriarchal. Men
love to give the impression that they rule the roost and take a front seat in
public life, but it’s often the women who run the show, both at home and
in family businesses.
In villages, men and women still tend to occupy different spheres. When
not tending livestock or olive trees, Cretan men can usually be found in a
kafeneio playing cards and drinking coffee or raki. Although exceptions are
made for foreign women, kafeneia are off-limits to Cretan women. The older
generation of Cretan women are house-proud and spend much time cultivat-
ing their culinary skills. Most men rarely participate in domestic duties (or
certainly don’t own up to it). While it’s becoming rarer these days, women
busy themselves in their free hours with sewing, crocheting or embroidery,
often in a circle of other women. But young Cretan women are more likely
to be found in a café than behind a loom.
Rural areas remain relatively conservative and girls who do not pursue an
education tend to marry young.

ARTS
Minoan Art & Culture
The rich legacy of Minoan civilisation uncovered in the palaces, settlements
and tombs around Crete reflect the glory and brilliance of perhaps the most
peaceful and prosperous era in the island’s history. The Minoans surrounded
themselves in art and heavily decorated their palaces. The surviving paint-
ing, small-scale sculptures, carved seals, mosaics, pottery and jewellery on
display at archaeological sites and museums around Crete provide a priceless
insight into the Minoan world as well as demonstrate their extraordinary
artistry. Minoan painting is virtually the only form of Greek painting to have
survived, because large-scale sculptures did not make it through the disasters
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(natural or otherwise) that befell the island. Minoan art inspired the invading
Mycenaeans and its influence spread to Santorini and beyond.

POTTERY
Pottery techniques advanced in the early Minoan years. Spirals and curvi-
linear motifs in white were painted on dark vases and several distinct styles
emerged. Pyrgos pottery was characterised by black, grey or brown colours,
while the later Vasiliki pottery (made near Ierapetra) was polychrome.
In the Middle to Late Minoan period, the style shifted to a dark-on-light
colour technique.
Highly advanced levels of artisanship developed in the workshops of the
first palaces at Knossos and Phaestos. Kamares pottery, named after the
cave where the pottery was first found, was colourful, elegant and beauti-
fully crafted and decorated with geometric, floral, plant and animal motifs.
Human forms were rarely depicted. During the entire Middle Minoan
period, Kamares vases were used for barter and were exported to Cyprus,
Egypt and the Levant.
‘Minoan With the invention of the potter’s wheel, cups, spouted jars and pithoi
frescoes are (large Minoan storage jars) could be produced quickly and there was a new
crispness to the designs. The most striking were the ‘eggshell’ vases with
renowned for their extremely thin walls.
their vibrant In the late Neopalatial era, marine and floral themes in darker colours
colours and reigned. After 1500 BC, vases sprouted three handles and were frequently
shaped as animal heads, such as the bull’s-head stone rhyton (libation vessel)
the vivid in the Iraklio Archaeological Museum. The decline of Minoan culture saw
naturalism…’ the lively pottery of previous centuries degenerate into dull rigidity.

JEWELLERY & SCULPTURE

Jewellery making and sculpture in various media reached an exceptional
degree of artisanship in the Protopalatial period. The exquisite bee pendant
found at Malia displays extraordinary delicacy and imagination. Another
Minoan masterpiece is a 15th-century-BC gold signet ring found in a tomb
at Isopata, near Knossos, which shows women in an ecstatic ritual dance in
a meadow with lilies, while a goddess descends from the sky.
Minoan sculptors created fine miniatures, including idols in faïence
(quartz-glazed earthenware), gold, ivory, bronze and stone. One of the most
outstanding examples is the bare-breasted serpent goddess with raised arms
wielding writhing snakes above an elaborately carved skirt. Another incred-
ible piece is the small rock-crystal rhyton from the Palace of Zakros. All of
the above can be seen in the Archaeological Museum of Iraklio.
The art of seal-stone carving also advanced in the palace workshops.
Using semiprecious stones and clay, artisans made miniature masterpieces
that sometimes contained hieroglyphic letters. Goats, lions and griffins and
dance scenes were rendered in minute detail. Arthur Evans spent much of
his first trip to Crete collecting these seals.
In the Postpalatial period, the production of jewellery and seal-stones
was replaced by the production of weaponry, reflecting the influence of the
warlike Mycenaeans.

THE FAMOUS FRESCOES

Minoan frescoes are renowned for their vibrant colours and the vivid natural-
ism in which they portray landscapes rich with animals and birds; marine
scenes teeming with fish and octopuses; and banquets, games and rituals.
Although fresco painting probably existed before 1700 BC, all remnants
vanished in the cataclysm that destroyed Minoan palaces around that time.
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Knossos yielded the richest trove of frescoes from the Neopalatial period,
most of which are on display in the Archaeological Museum of Iraklio.
Only fragments of the frescoes survive but they have been very carefully
(and controversially) restored and the technique of using plant and mineral
dyes has kept the colours relatively fresh. Minoan fresco painters borrowed
heavily from certain Egyptian conventions but the figures are far less rigid
than most Egyptian wall paintings.
The Knossos frescoes suggest Minoan women were white-skinned with
elaborately coiffured glossy black locks. Proud, graceful and uninhibited,
these women had hourglass figures and were dressed in stylish gowns that
exposed perfectly shaped breasts. The bronze-skinned men were tall, with
tiny waists, narrow hips, broad shoulders and muscular thighs and biceps;
the children were slim and lithe.
Many of the frescoes show action scenes, from boxing and wrestling to
solemn processions, saffron gathering to bull-leaping (see box on p48p48).

RELIGIOUS SYMBOLS
‘The artistry
The Minoans were not given to building colossal temples or religious statuary. of the
Caves and peak sanctuaries appear to have been used for cult or religious Minoans has
activity. Minoan spiritual life was organised around the worship of a Mother
Goddess. Often represented with snakes or lions, the Mother Goddess was
still not been
the deity-in-chief and the male gods were clearly subordinate. surpassed.’
The double-axe symbol that appears in frescoes and on the palace walls
of Knossos was a sacred symbol for the Minoans. Other religious symbols
that frequently appear in Minoan art include the mythical griffin bird and
figures with a human body and an animal head. The Minoans appear to have
worshipped the dead and believed in some form of afterlife, while evidence
uncovered in Anemospilia, suggests human sacrifice may also have taken
place (see p165).

MINOAN WRITING
The Cretan hieroglyphic was the system of writing used in the Protopalatial
period that later evolved into Linear A and B script. The most significant
example of this writing is on the inscrutable 3600-year-old terracotta tablet
known as the Phaestos disk, which has been the object of much speculation
since it was discovered at Phaestos in 1908. The disk, about 16cm in diameter,
consists of an early Minoan pictographic script made up of 242 ‘words’ writ-
ten in a continuous spiral from the outside of the disk to the inside (or the
other way round). The repetition of sequences of words or sentences has led
to speculation it may be a prayer. It has never been deciphered.

Fine Arts
The artistry of the Minoans has still not been surpassed. During a brief artistic
renaissance on the island that lasted from the 8th to the 7th centuries BC, a
group of sculptors called the Daedalids perfected a new technique of making
sculptures in hammered bronze, working in a style that combined Eastern
and Greek aesthetics. Their influence spread to mainland Greece. Cretan
culture went into decline at the end of the 7th century BC, though there
was a brief revival under the Romans, a period notable for richly decorated
mosaic floors and marble sculptures.

BYZANTINE ART
Although Byzantine icons and frescoes were created from the earliest years
of Byzantine rule, most were destroyed in popular rebellions during the
13th and 14th centuries. In the 11th century, émigrés from Constantinople
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NO BULL
The bull was a potent symbol in Minoan times, featuring prominently in Minoan art. The peculiar
Minoan sport of bull-leaping, where acrobatic thrill-seekers seize the charging bull’s horns and
leap over its back is depicted in several frescoes, pottery and sculptures. Scantily clad men and
women are shown participating in the sport, which may have had religious significance. One
of the most stunning examples is the Middle Minoan bull-leaping fresco found at the palace of
Knossos, which shows a man leaping over the back of a bull with a female figure on each side.
Another prized bull is the carved stone rhyton (libation vessel) in the shape of a bull’s head, with
rock crystal eyes and gilded wooden horns.

brought portable icons to Crete, but the only surviving example from this
period is the icon of the Virgin at Mesopantitissa, now in Venice. From the
13th to the early 16th centuries, churches around Crete were decorated with
frescoes – many of which can still be seen today. Byzantine art flowered
under the Paleologan emperors who ruled from 1258 to 1453, and its influ-
ence spread to Crete. The great icon painter of the 14th century was Ioannis
Pagomenos, who worked in western Crete.

THE CRETAN SCHOOL

With the fall of Constantinople in 1453, many Byzantine artists fled to Crete.
At the same time, the Italian Renaissance was in full bloom and many Cretan
artists studied in Italy. The result was the ‘Cretan School’ of icon painting
that combined technical brilliance and dramatic richness. In Iraklio alone
there were more than 200 painters working from the mid-16th to mid-17th
centuries who were equally at ease in Venetian and Byzantine styles. The
Cretan Theophanes Sterlitzas painted monasteries throughout Greece, and
spread the techniques of the Cretan School.
Too few examples of the Cretan School are on display in Crete. In Iraklio
you can see some fine examples at the Museum of Religious Art (p153) – the
centrepiece of the collection being six portable icons from the great Michael
Damaskinos, the finest exponent of the Cretan school. Damaskinos’ long
sojourn in Venice introduced him to new techniques of rendering perspec-
tive, which he brought to the Byzantine style of icon painting.

CONTEMPORARY ARTS
The fine arts have a relatively low profile in Crete today, though there are
many contemporary artists and artisans working and exhibiting on the
island. Many Cretan-born artists live and work in Athens and abroad.
Rethymno’s Contemporary Arts Centre Rethymno (p126) is one of the
island’s leading galleries for local and international artists and has a per-
manent collection of the work of local painter Lefteris Kanakakis. The
Centre for Byzantine Art in Rethymno (p125) continues the tradition
of the Cretan School of icon painting and exhibits the work of Manolis
Koudourakis. Apart from exhibitions of local artists held by municipal
art galleries around Crete, new private galleries are starting to appear in
Hania and Iraklio. Hania also hosts an annual International Art Festival
(check out Omma Centre of Contemporary Art’s website, www.omma.us,
and click on the links for information).

Dance
Fresco scenes of dancing Minoans suggest that dancing in Crete began in
the ancient Greek temples. Dancing is depicted on ancient Greek vases and
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EL GRECO THE CRETAN

One of the geniuses of the Renaissance, El Greco (‘The Greek’ in Spanish), was in fact a Cretan
named Dominikos Theotokopoulos. He was born in the Cretan capital of Candia (present-day
Iraklio) in 1541, during a time of great artistic activity, following the arrival of painters fleeing
Ottoman-held Constantinople. These painters had a formative influence upon the young El Greco,
giving him early grounding in the traditions of late-Byzantine fresco painting that was to give
such a powerful spiritual element to his later paintings.
El Greco went to Venice in his early 20s, joining the studio of Titian, but he came into his own
as a painter after he moved to Spain in 1577, where his highly emotional style struck a chord
with the Spanish. He lived in Toledo until his death in 1614. The most famous of his works,
such as his masterpiece The Burial of Count Orgaz (1586), are in Toledo but his paintings are in
museums around the world. View of Mt Sinai and the Monastery of St Catherine (1570), painted
during his time in Venice, hangs in Iraklio’s Historical Museum of Crete (p152), next to the tiny
Baptism of Christ acquired by the City of Iraklio in 2004. You can see Concert of Angels (1608) at
the National Gallery in Athens.
A white marble bust of the painter stands in Iraklio’s Plateia El Greco, and there are streets
taverns and hotels named after him throughout the island. A small museum dedicated to El
Greco has been established in the village of Fodele, in the house he allegedly spent time in as
a child (see p161).
And it was only a matter of time before we had the movie: El Greco (2007), an epic €7 million
production was shot in Iraklio, Venice, Spain and Athens. It was directed by Yannis Smaragdis
and stars British unknown Nick Ashdon.

there are references to dances in Homer’s works, who commented on the

ability of Cretan dancers in particular.
Cretan dances are dynamic, fast and warlike, and many of them are danced
by groups of men. Dances for women are traditionally related to wedding or
courtship, and more delicate and graceful. Like most Greek dances they are
normally performed in a circle – in ancient times, dancers formed a circle to
seal themselves off from evil influences. In later times of occupation, dancing
was a way for men to keep fit under the noses of the enemy.
The most popular Cretan dances are the graceful and slow syrto and the
pendozali. The latter was originally danced by armed warriors and has a slow
version and faster one that builds into a frenzy, with the leader doing kicks,
variations and fancy moves while the others follow with more mild steps.
Another popular dance is the sousta, a bouncy courtship dance with small
precise steps that is performed by couples. The maleviziotiko (also known
as kastrino or pidikto) is a fast triumphant dance.
Dancing well is a matter of great personal pride, and most dancers will take
their turn at the front to demonstrate their prowess. Be aware that cutting in
on somebody’s dance is absolutely bad form, as families have usually paid for
the dance (this is how Cretan musicians often make their living).
The best place to see Cretan dancing is at festivals, weddings and baptisms. Anthony Quinn (Mexican,
Folkloric shows are also put on for tourists in many areas. Although these not Greek) injured his
are more contrived, they still put on a decent show. foot while filming Zorba
In addition to Crete’s own traditional music and dances, you will also the Greek, so the scripted
come across mainstream Greek music and dance. energetic dance became
a slow shuffle he falsely
Music claimed was traditional.
Cretan music is the most dynamic and enduring form of traditional music
in Greece today. It remains the most popular music in Crete, staving off
mainstream Greek and western pop, and accompanies weddings, births,
holidays, harvesting and any other celebration.
 50 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com

Crete’s thriving local music scene continues to spawn a new generation

of folk performers, who play regularly and produce new recordings of
traditional songs as well as a contemporary style of music based on Cretan
tradition. Cretan music also has a presence in the world-music scene as a
For an insight into Cretan genre in its own right.
music, go to www.cretan The most prominent Cretan musician today is the legendary Psarantonis;
-music.com (in English he’s known for his unique style of playing and is instantly recognisable from
and Greek). his wild beard and straggly mane of hair. Psarantonis performs regularly –
everywhere from the smallest Cretan village to the clubs of Athens and the
international festival circuit.
The icon of Cretan music, however, is the late Nikos Xylouris, whose
career was cut short when he died in 1980 at the age of 43. With his superb
voice and talent on the lyra, he remains the biggest selling and most revered
Cretan musician.
Cretan music has been influenced by many musical traditions over the
centuries and resembles eastern modal music. The lead instruments are the
lyra, a three-stringed instrument similar to a violin that is played resting on
the knee; the eight-stringed laouto (lute); and the mandolino (mandolin).
Other traditional instruments include the askomandoura (bagpipe), habioli
(whistle) and daoulaki (drum). The bouzouki, so associated with Greek music,
is not part of Cretan music, though popular Greek music is also heard and
performed in Crete.
One of Crete’s favourite forms of musical expression are mandinades,
The oldest surviving folk rhyming couplets of 15 syllables that express the age-old concerns of love,
songs in Greece, dating death and the vagaries of fate. Probably originating as love songs in 15th-
from the 17th century, century Venice, thousands of mandinades helped forge a sense of national
were found at Mt Athos identity during the long centuries of occupation. The best ‘rhymers’ at
and were revealed to be Cretan festivals will tailor their songs to the people present and try to outdo
rizitika (patriotic songs) each other in skill and composition. These days young Cretans continue the
from western Crete. tradition, and mandinades are still part of the modern courtship ritual, albeit
often via mobile phone text messages.
Another popular form of music is rizitika, which are centuries-old songs
from the Lefka Ori thought to have derived from the songs of the border
guards of the Byzantine Empire, though it is believed they may date back
further. Many of the rizitika songs deal with historical or heroic themes. One
of the most popular is the song of Daskalogiannis, the Sfakian hero who led
the rebellion against the Turks in 1770 – the song has 1034 verses.
With more than 10,000 lines, the 17th-century romance Erotokritos,
written by Vitsentzos Kornaros, has provided ample material for perform-
ers, and continues to inspire Crete’s musicians. It has been put to music
countless times, with each artist presenting their own interpretation of the
great work.
Traditional folk music was shunned by the Greek bourgeoisie during the
period after independence; however, a new wave of entehno (artistic) music
that emerged in Athens in the 1960s drew on urban folk instruments such as
the bouzouki and created popular hits from the works of Greek poets.
Acclaimed composer Yiannis Markopoulos (from Ierapetra) upped the
ante by introducing rural folk music into the mainstream and was re-
sponsible for bringing Nikos Xylouris to the fore. During the junta years,
Xylouris’ music became a leading voice of the resistance. Markopoulos
himself is best known internationally for his composition for Who Pays
the Ferryman?
Xylouris was one of a swathe of artists who have emerged from the
village of Anogia and part of an extraordinary musical family (see the
boxed text, opposite).
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 51

MUSICAL FAMILIES
The village of Anogia (p136), in the foothills of Mt Psiloritis in Rethymno, has produced a dispro-
portionate number of musically talented sons. The much-loved and now long-lamented singer
and lyrist Nikos Xylouris was from Anogia, and his ancestral house is maintained as a kind of
musical shrine in the lower village. His idiosyncratic brother Psarantonis has since taken up the
reins and is wildly popular nationwide. Brother Giannis Xylouris (Psaroyiannis) is Greece’s most
accomplished lute player. His heir apparent is Psarantonis’ charismatic son, Giorgos Xylouris
(Psarayiorgis), whose musical career has blossomed since returning to Crete after a stint living in
Australia. Yiorgi’s sister, Niki, is one of the few female Cretan singers, and the finest, while their
brother Lambis is not surprisingly also in the music game.
Other notable musicians from Anogia include the lyra player Manolis Manouras, Nikiforos
Aerakis, Vasilis Skoulas and Giorgos Kalomiris.
The talented but capricious Georgos Tramoundanis, alias Loudovikos ton Anogion (Ludwig
from Anogia), sells his brand of folksy, ballad-style Cretan compositions to audiences all over
Greece.

Xylouris, Thanasis Skordalos and Kostas Mountakis are considered the

great masters of Cretan music, and most musicians today follow one of
their styles.
One of the most respected and intriguing figures of Crete’s music scene
is Ross Daly (of Irish descent), a master of the lyra who has established a
musical workshop in Houdetsi (see p164).
The excellent sextet Haïnides is one of the more popular bands to emerge
from Crete in recent years, playing their own brand of music and giving
memorable live performances around Greece. Other leading figures include
Mitsos and Vasilis Stavrakakis and contemporary musicians such as the band
Palaïna, Stelios Petrakis from Sitia, Papa Stefanis Nikas and Yiannis Haroulis.
Australian-born Sifis Tsourdalakis is another rising young talent.
Popular artists of Cretan origin playing mainstream Greek music include
the talented Manos Pirovolakis with his rock-lyra sound.

Literature
Crete has a rich literary tradition that sprang from the Cretan love of songs,
verses and word play. In the late 16th and early 17th centuries, Crete had a
tremendous literary flowering under Venetian rule.
The first complete English
The era’s greatest masterpiece was undoubtedly the epic Erotokritos writ-
prose translation of
ten by Vitsentzos Kornaros of Sitia. More than 10,000 lines long, this poem
Crete’s 10,000-line epic
of courtly love is full of nostalgia for the dying Venetian regime that was
Erotokritos, was published
threatened by the rise in Turkish power. The poem was recited for centuries
by Byzantina Austral-
by illiterate peasants and professional singers alike, embodying the dreams of
iensia in 2004, with a
freedom that enabled Cretans to endure their many privations. Many of the
scholarly introduction
verses were incorporated into Crete’s beloved mandinades. It is considered
and notes, translated
the most important work of early modern Greek literature.
by Gavan Betts, Stathis
Greece’s best-known and most widely read author since Homer is Nikos
Gauntlett and Thanasis
Kazantzakis, born in Crete in 1883 amid the last spasms of the island’s
Spilias.
struggle for independence from the Turks. His novels are full of drama and
larger-than-life characters. His most famous works are The Last Temptation,
Zorba the Greek, Christ Recrucified and Freedom or Death. The first two have
been made into films. Zorba the Greek takes place on Crete and provides a
fascinating glimpse of the harsher side of Cretan culture.
Kazantzakis had a chequered and at times troubled literary career, clash-
ing frequently with the Orthodox Church for his professed atheism (see the
boxed text, p53).
 52 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com

Iraklio may have Kazantzakis, but Rethymno can lay claim to Pandelis
Prevelakis. Born in Rethymno in 1900, Prevelakis also studied in Athens
and at the Sorbonne. Primarily known as a poet, Prevelakis also wrote plays
Literature and Society
and novels, and his best-known work is The Tale of a Town, which is about
in Renaissance Crete,
his home town.
by David Holton, is a
Contemporary Cretan writers include Rhea Galanaki, whose prize-winning
comprehensive study
The Life of Ismail Ferik Pasha (1989) has been translated into six languages;
of the literature of the
it’s a story about the clash of Christianity and Ottoman Islam in Crete. It is
Cretan Renaissance in
listed in Unesco’s Collection of Representative Works.
its historical, social and
Ioanna Karystiani (see the boxed text, p41), who wrote the screenplay
cultural context, with
for Brides, has been published in several languages, but only her novel Little
chapters on the poetic
England has been translated into English
and dramatic genres
contributed by leading
Film
experts in the field.
Crete has no local film industry but has been the location for several films,
including 1960s classic Zorba the Greek, which was shot in Stavros on the
Akrotiri Peninsula as well as on other locations around the island. In 1956
the American director Jules Dassin (Never On Sunday) chose the village of
Kritsa as the backdrop for He Who Must Die, the film version of Katzant-
zakis’ novel Christ Recrucified starring Dassin’s wife, Melina Mercouri.
The film lovingly captured the worn faces of the villagers, many of whom
acted in the film.

CRETAN MUSIC TOP 10

The following broad selection of recordings provides an introduction to Cretan music past and
present.
„ Tis Kritis Ta Politima – this 2006 double CD compilation is a good overall introduction to Cre-
tan music, featuring a broad selection of traditional songs by leading Cretan musicians and
Greek artists.
„ Dimotiki Anthologia-Nikos Xylouris – an early 1976 album that shot Crete’s legendary musical
son, Nikos Xylouris, to stardom. It’s also available in a good-value twin-CD set (I Kriti Tou Nikos
Xylouris) with another classic album, Ta Pou Thimoume Tragoudo (1975).
„ Ta Oraiotera Tragoudia Tou – a fine anthology paying tribute to the postwar master of Cretan
music, Kostas Mountakis, known as ‘the teacher’.
„ Thanasis Skordalos – part of the To Elliniko Tragoudi series documenting the greats of Greek
music, this is a taste one of Crete’s lyra legends.
„ Anastorimata – a landmark album from 1982 heralding the idiosyncratic Psarantonis’ unique
musical style. It also features mandinades by Vasilis Stavrakakis, and Ross Daly makes his first
appearance.
„ Beyond the Horizon – Ross Daly’s 2002 album presents his exceptional orchestration of tradi-
tional Cretan music, continuing the Irishman’s influence on Cretan music.
„ Embolo – a 2004 double-disc set featuring Yiannis and Giorgos Xylouris, two of the greats of
Cretan music, with the best Cretan lute you can hear.
„ Xatheri – a stellar collaboration from 2003 featuring Crete’s top vocalist Vasilis Stavrakakis,
Giorgos Xylouris on lute, Niki Xylouris and other leading musicians playing Cretan classics
with a fresh sound.
„ Palaiina Seferia – the excellent 1997 self-titled first album of this contemporary Cretan ensem-
ble led by Zacharias Spyridakis, a student of the lyra master Mountakis.
„ Hainides – the self-titled first album of this popular Cretan band gives you a good feel for its
unique style based on Cretan music.
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 53

NIKOS KAZANTZAKIS – CRETE’S PRODIGAL SON

Crete’s most famous contemporary literary son is Nikos Kazantzakis. Born in 1883 in Iraklio, the
then Turkish-dominated capital, Kazantzakis spent his early childhood in the ferment of revolu-
tion and change that was creeping upon his homeland. In 1897 the revolution that finally broke
out against Turkish rule forced him to leave Crete for studies in Naxos, Athens and later Paris.
It wasn’t until he was 31 that he finally turned his hand to writing by translating philosophical
books into Greek. For a number of years he travelled throughout Europe – Switzerland, Germany,
Austria, Russia and Britain – thus laying the groundwork for a series of travelogues in his later
literary career.
Nikos Kazantzakis was a complex writer and his early work was heavily influenced by the
prevailing philosophical ideas of the time, including the nihilistic philosophies of Nietzsche. In
his writings, Kazantzakis is tormented by a tangible metaphysical and existentialist anguish. His
relationship with religion was always troubling – his official stance being that of a nonbeliever,
yet he always seemed to toy with the idea that perhaps God did exist. His self-professed great-
est work is his Odyssey, a modern-day epic loosely based on the trials and travels of the ancient
hero Odysseus (Ulysses). A weighty and complex opus of 33,333 iambic verses, Odyssey never
fully realised Kazantzakis’ aspirations to be held in the same league as Homer, Virgil or the
Renaissance Italian, Tasso.
Ironically it was only much later in his career, after Kazantzakis belatedly turned to novel writ-
ing, that his star finally shone. It was through works such as Christ Recrucified (1948), Kapetan
Mihalis (1950; now known as Freedom and Death) and The Life and Manners of Alexis Zorbas (1946)
that he became internationally known. This last work gave rise to the image of the ultimate,
free-spirited Greek male, ‘Zorba the Greek’, which was immortalised by Anthony Quinn in the
movie of the same name.
Kazantzakis died while travelling in Freiburg, Germany, on 26 October 1957. Despite resist-
ance from the Orthodox Church, he was given a religious funeral and buried in the southern
Martinenga Bastion of the old walls of Iraklio.

More recently, Crete was the setting for the rather lacklustre 2000 ro-
mantic comedy, Beware of Greeks Bearing Guns, an old-fashioned tale of
mistaken identity and a Cretan vendetta starring Greek satirist Lakis La-
zopoulos and Greek-Australian actress Zoe Carides. The Greek-Australian
co-production was shot in Crete and Melbourne.
The 2007 epic El Greco, a film about the life of Crete’s famous painter
(see the boxed text, p49), directed by Yiannis Smaragdis, was shot in
Crete. Meanwhile, please stay tuned for two movies shot in Crete in 2007.
Olga Malea’s First-Time Godfather was shot in the village of Fres, while
Greek-Australian actor Alex Dimitriades plays the lead role in the ro-
mantic comedy Reception Will Follow, produced by Greek-American
Christine Crokos.
While Crete has no local TV production, one of the most popular recent
TV series was Tis Agapis Mahairia (The Knives of Love), a drama based on
a Cretan vendetta.
Greece’s film industry overall is going through a period of flux. For
many years it was in the doldrums, due largely to inadequate government
funding and a tendency to produce slow-moving esoteric films loaded with
symbolism and too avant-garde to have mass appeal, despite being well
made with some outstanding cinematography.
The leader of this style is Greece’s most acclaimed film director, Theod-
oros Angelopoulos, who won the 1988 Golden Palm award at the Cannes
Film Festival for Eternity and a Day. His other well-known films include
Ulysses Gaze, starring Harvey Keitel, The Beekeeper, Alexander the Great
and Landscapes in the Mist.
54 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com

More recently Greek filmmakers have begun producing commer-

cially successful films, a trend started by the 2000 box-office hit Safe
Sex, a light-hearted look at Greek sexuality by Thanasis Reppas and
Mihalis Papathanasiou.
But Greece has not has a major international hit since Zorba, and be-
yond the festival circuit, few have made an impact outside Greece. Two
major mainstream films that gained international cinematic releases – the
first in many years – were Tassos Boulmetis’ A Touch of Spice (2003) and
Pantelis Voulgaris’ 2004 hit Brides, which was executive-produced by
Martin Scorcese.
The latest wave of filmmakers is attracting international attention with
films that present a grittier, up-close and candid look at contemporary
Greek life, a shift from idealised and romanticised views from the past. Di-
rectors to watch include Konstantinos Giannaris, whose provocative docu-
mentary-style films such as From the Edge of the City and his most recent
release Hostage seem to split audiences and critics alike. Yannis Econo-
midis, whose punishing second film Soul Kicking (2006) was screened at
Cannes, has been likened to a younger Mike Leigh on speed.
 55

Food & Drink

Cretan cuisine has its own distinct identity within Greek cooking. Regional
specialities found across Crete and the quality and range of produce grown
on the island by various small-scale producers present a diverse gourmet trail.
One of the delights of travelling through Crete is coming across a family-run
taverna where authentic Cretan dishes are made with fresh, home-grown
produce, where the wild aromatic greens were picked in the mountains, the
oil and cheese is homemade, tender lamb is from a local shepherd or the
fish was caught by the owner.
Unfortunately, since the advent of mass tourism, the food dished up to
visitors at many of the island’s bland tourist tavernas has hardly done the
cuisine justice. This is changing, however, as pride in promoting Cretan
cuisine increases and more traditional home-style dishes are appearing
on restaurant menus. Even in popular areas, many tavernas have stopped
‘…Cretans
pandering to foreign predilections, trading schnitzel for stifado (braised had the
meat with onions), while a new generation of professional chefs is ex- lowest levels
perimenting with variations on traditional dishes and flavours to create
nouveau-Cretan cuisine.
of heart
Crete may be a potential gourmet travel destination, but the essence of disease and
its rustic cuisine remains its simple seasonal and balanced approach, which other chronic
reflects the bounty of a sun-blessed fertile land and a history of resource-
fulness that comes from subsistence living during hard times.
illnesses…’
Cretan cuisine gained legendary status for its health benefits following
scientific studies of the Mediterranean diet in the 1960s that showed Cre-
tans had the lowest levels of heart disease and other chronic illnesses (see
the boxed text, p57). This was largely attributed to a greater reliance on
pulses, fresh vegetables and fruit than on meats and processed foodstuffs,
and copious use of virgin olive oil.
Food and the ritual of dining together play an integral role in Cretan
life, whether at home or eating out with family and friends. Cretans will
travel far to get to a great restaurant or eat specific food, heading to the
mountains for local meat and the sea for fresh fish. Some of the best
tavernas are tucked away in unexpected places.

THE CRETAN KITCHEN

Greek and Cretan dishes often overlap, but there are Cretan specialities,
as well as regional variations across the island. Cretan cuisine has its roots
in antiquity and has been influenced by various cultures over time but it
essentially relies on fresh, unadulterated seasonal produce, aromatic herbs
and ingredients that speak for themselves. The olive oil, produced in vast
quantities across the island, is among the world’s best and is an integral
part of meals. Apart from its beneficial qualities, olive oil also makes veg-
etables and salads taste better.
The island’s diet evolved from subsistence and what could be grown
or made locally. For centuries Cretans have been gathering horta (wild
greens) from the hills and boiling them for warm salads or cooking them
in pies and stews. Hohlii (snails) are collected after rainfall and prepared
in dozens of interesting ways: try hohlii boubouristi, simmered in vinegar
and rosemary, or snails stewed with hondros (cracked wheat). Cretan paxi-
madia (rusks), a hangover from times of famine, are made from barley
flour or whole wheat and double-baked to produce a hard loaf that can
keep, literally, for years. They are moistened with water and topped with
 56 FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks lonelyplanet.com

THE GOOD OIL

The Minoans were among the first to grow wealthy on the olive, and Crete remains an important
olive-growing area, producing the largest quantity of extra virgin olive oil in Greece. More and
more organic oil is being produced and at least nine olive regions have gained the EU’s Protected
Appellation of Origin status.
The best Cretan olive oil is from Kolymbari, west of Hania, and Sitia in the east. Biolea, near
Hania, makes superb organic olive oil, as do monasteries – particularly the award-winning olive
oil produced at Moni Agia Triada near Hania and Moni Toplou in the East.
The oil that is prized above all others is agoureleo (meaning unripe), a thick green oil pressed
from unripe olives.
Greeks are the world’s biggest per-capita consumers of olive oil; in Crete annual per-person
consumption averages 31L.

tomato, olive oil and feta or myzithra (sheep’s-milk cheese) in the popular
dish called dakos (or koukouvagia).
Cretans probably eat Meat features more regularly than it did in the past. Cretans eat a lot of
more snails than the locally reared lamb and goat and are also fond of rabbit, which is stewed with
French – Cretan snails are rosemary and rizmarato (vinegar). While grills dominate taverna menus,
even exported to France. Cretans have their own way of barbecuing called ofto, in which big chunks
of meat are grilled upright around hot coals. In parts of Crete meat is cooked
tsigariasto (sautéed), while in traditional mountain village tavernas you
will find surprisingly tasty boiled mutton or goat. Meat is also cooked with
vegetables, often lamb stewed with stamnagathi (wild greens) or artichokes,
or chicken with okra.
The resourceful Cretans use almost every part of the animal – including
delicacies such as ameletita (‘unspeakables’– fried sheep’s testicles), and
gardhoumia (stomach and offal wrapped in intestines).
Psari (fish) has long been a staple (except in mountain areas) cooked
with minimum fuss – usually grilled whole and drizzled with ladholemono
(a lemon-and-oil dressing). Smaller fish like red mullet and tiny whitebait
are usually lightly fried.
Kalitsounia, lightly fried pastries filled with myzithra cheese or horta.
Cheese versions are also served with honey.
Where Cretan cuisine shines is in vegetable dishes such as artichokes and
broad beans or tasty zucchini flowers (anthoi) stuffed with rice and herbs.
Crete produces wonderful cheeses from goat and sheep’s milk, or a combi-
nation. Graviera, a nutty, mild gruyere-like sheep’s-milk cheese, is often aged
in special mountain caves and stone huts called mitata. It is delicious eaten
with thyme honey. Other local cheeses include myzithra (a soft, mild ricotta-
like cheese that can be eaten soft or hardened for grating), the hardened sour
Xynomyzithra, anthotyro (a similar soft whey cheese) and galomyzithra (a
creamy speciality of Hania). Staka is a rich, soft buttery cheese, often added
to rice pilafi (pilaf) to make it creamier.
Thick, tangy sheep’s-milk yogurt is something to savour, best eaten with
honey, walnuts or fruit, especially in areas like Vryses (see p120).

DRINKS
Beverages
A legacy of Ottoman rule, Greek coffee is traditionally brewed on hot sand
in a special copper briki (pot) and served in a small cup, where the grounds
sink to the bottom (don’t drink them). It is drunk glyko (sweet), metrio
(medium) and sketo (without sugar). Greek coffee is, however, struggling
to maintain its place as the national drink against the ubiquitous frappé,
lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks 57

the iced instant-coffee concoction that you see everyone drinking. Alterna-
tives are espresso and cappuccino chilled – freddo. Herbal teas are popular,
especially camomile or aromatic Cretan tsai tou vounou (mountain tea),
which is both nutritious and delicious. The endemic Diktamo (dittany) tea
is known for its medicinal qualities, while Crete’s reputedly medicinal warm
tipple is rakomelo – raki, honey and cloves.

Beer & Spirits

Greek beers are making their mark in a market dominated by big European
breweries such as Amstel and Heineken. The major Greek brands are My-
thos and Alfa, while boutique beers include the Vergina and Hillas lagers
from Northern Greece, organic Piraiki made in Piraeus and Craft, which is
widely available in draught form. Crete also has its own beer produced at
the Rethymniaki brewery (p132). Greeks are not big beer drinkers, however:
they only consume about half the EU per capita average.
Supermarkets are the cheapest place to buy beer, which is also available
in kiosks.
Ouzo, the famous Greek spirit, has a more limited following in Crete, where
it is drunk mostly by mainlanders or foreigners. It is served neat, with ice and
a separate glass of water for dilution (which makes it turn milky white).

Wine
Wine has been produced in Crete since Minoan times and Crete’s farmers
have long grown small vineyards and made wine for their own consumption.
It wasn’t until industrialisation (and the resulting rapid urban growth and
onset of tourism) that bottled wine was mass produced commercially – and
retsina was introduced to the world.
In the past 20 years, a renaissance in the Greek wine industry has seen a
new generation of progressive internationally-trained winemakers reinvent-
ing Greek wine using local and international varieties. About 20% of Greek
wine is produced in Crete and while, on the whole, Cretan wine may
not make connoisseurs tremble with delight, the island produces many

THE CRETAN DIET

The health benefits of the Cretan diet first gained attention after an influential international
study, begun in the 1960s, found that Cretan men had the lowest rate of heart disease and
cancer. Thirty years later, half the Cretan participants were still alive, compared to no survivors
in Finland. The mystery is attributed to a balanced diet high in fruits, vegetables, pulses, whole
grains, olive oil and wine. Another important factor may be the horta (wild greens) that Cretans
gathered in the hills and survived on during war, which may have protective properties that are
not yet fully understood. Regular fasting may also play a role, along with the use of sheep and
goat’s milk instead of cow’s, and many will swear by the medicinal properties of raki and wine
and their role in ensuring longevity. Unfortunately the Cretan diet and lifestyle is changing as
the island has prospered and become urbanised. Meat and cheese feature more in the diet, few
Cretans still work in the fields and obesity, heart disease and cancer rates are rising.
Apart from the health benefits, Cretan cuisine is also finally being recognised as a key part of
the cultural heritage. A resurgence of interest and pride in Cretan cuisine has started to change
the island’s gastronomic map. In recent years more emphasis is being placed on promoting
Cretan cuisine through programmes such as Concred (www.concred.gr), a restaurant certification
programme established in 2004, which has about 30 restaurants on board. Many are in large
hotels, which once served only international food, but the list includes a range of classy restaur-
ants and simple tavernas, in the cities, in mountains villages and by the sea, who serve Cretan
food. But there are plenty of authentic places to discover in your travels.
 58 F O O D & D R I N K • • Fe a s t s & C e l e b r a t i o n s lonelyplanet.com

CRETAN FIRE WATER

Raki – tsikoudia – is an integral part of Cretan culture. A shot of the fiery brew is offered as a
welcome, at the end of a meal and pretty much at any time and on all occasions. Distilled from
grape stems and pips left over from the grapes pressed for wine, it is similar to the Middle Eastern
arak, Italian grappa, Irish poteen or Turkish raki. Each October, the raki distilling season starts, with
distilleries around the island (including many private stills) producing massive quantities of raki.
The season is usually accompanied by a lots of drinking and feasting. If you pass a village distill-
ing raki, you may well get an invitation. Good raki has a smooth mellow taste with no noticeable
after-burn. As long as you eat food with it, don’t mix it with other alcohol and drink plenty of
water, you can drink considerable amounts without serious after-effects or hangovers.

distinguished wines. Wine tourism is slowly picking up as wineries are

becoming more visitor-friendly (see p166).
About 70% of Cretan wine comes from the Peza area, Crete’s main
Appellation of Origin region. Much of it is blended and produced in bulk
For comprehensive infor- by cooperatives and the quality can be uneven. Other key wine regions
mation on the country’s are Dafnes, Arhanes and Sitia, which has a significant industry (p194)
wine regions and producing some crisp whites, while there are also fine wineries in Hania
producers, visit www (see p95). The most popular Cretan white grape varieties are vilana and
.greekwine.gr or www thrapsathiri. The oldest variety, liatiko, has been used to make red wine for
.greekwinemakers.com. the last 4000 years, while reds include kotsifali and mandilari.
House wines served in restaurants are usually very presentable and
much cheaper than bottled wine. Some Cretan house reds have a light
port taste. Ask for kokkino (red), roze (rose) or lefko (white).
Nowadays retsina, white wine flavoured with the resin of pine trees, has
taken on an almost folkloric significance with foreigners, some of whom
confuse it with barrel wine (which is non-resinated). It goes well with
strongly flavoured food, especially seafood, but it is an acquired taste.

FEASTS & CELEBRATIONS

Food plays an integral part in Cretan religious and cultural celebrations,
which are inevitably accompanied by a feast. Festivities invariably involve
spit-roasting (and/or boiling) lamb or kid goat, accompanied by a delicious
rice pilafi made from the stock.
Easter is preceded by the Lenten fast, which involves special dishes
without meat or dairy products – or even oil if you go strictly by the
book. Come the resurrection, though, the celebrations begin with a bowl
of mayiritsa (an offal soup), and an Easter Sunday lunch of lamb and
kreatotourta (meat pies).
Red-dyed boiled eggs are part of the Easter festivities and also used to
decorate the tsoureki, a brioche-style bread flavoured with mahlepi (ma-
haleb cherry kernels).
Easter sweets include koulourakia (biscuits), melomakarona (honey bis-
cuits) and kourambiedhes (almond biscuits).
A kouloura – an intricately decorated loaf of bread that takes hours to
make – is a traditional wedding gift. Honey and walnuts, considered an
aphrodisiac or fertility-booster, are given to the bridal couple.
The Vasilopita, a New Year’s cake, has a coin inserted into the mix, giving
the recipient good luck for the year.
Throughout the year, there are many celebrations centred on various
harvest festivals – from chestnuts to sultanas (see p213 for a full list).
lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Dining Out 59

DINING OUT
In most places there is usually a distinction between ‘tourist’ tavernas and
places aimed at more discerning locals, and the key is to find the latter.
Friendly touts and big illuminated signs in English with unappealing photos
of dishes is a big giveaway, though admittedly there are rare exceptions. Given
the later dining times, you may find that a restaurant that was empty at 7pm
is heaving with locals when you leave the taverna you chose, so try to adapt
to local eating times (see Habits & Customs, p62).
By law, every eating establishment must display a written menu including
prices. Restaurant staff will automatically put bread on your table and this
comes at a nominal extra charge. Tipping is not mandatory but the bill is
usually rounded up or around 10% is added for good service.
As a general rule of thumb, the further you move from the north-coast
tourist resorts the better the food becomes, especially in the villages where
they are likely to use fresh local produce. Beware of small tavernas with
over-extensive menus, as they could not realistically produce all the dishes
fresh to order.

Where To Eat & Drink

Other types of eateries include the following:
Estiatorio A restaurant where you once paid more for essentially the same dishes you got in
a taverna, but with a nicer setting and formal service. These days estiatorio often refers to an
upmarket restaurant serving more international cuisine.
Kafeneio One of the oldest institutions, kafeneio normally only serve Greek coffee and spirits but
in many Cretan villages they will always have meals. They are still largely the domain of men.
Mayireio A restaurant specialising in big trays of the day’s cooked dishes, including both
traditional baked dishes and one-pot favourites.
Mezedopoleio The key here is lots of different mezedes, small dishes that are shared.
Psarotaverna A taverna specialising in fish and seafood dishes.
Psistaria A taverna specialising in char-grilled or spit-roasted meat.
Rakadiko The Cretan equivalent of an ouzerie serves increasingly sophisticated mezes with each
round of raki. Particularly popular in Sitia, Ierapetra and Rethymno.
Taverna The classic Greek eateries are casual, family-run (and child-friendly) places where the
waiter arrives with bread and cutlery in a basket, and water. They have barrel wine and paper
tablecloths and fairly standard menus. Trendy modern tavernas offer creative takes on Greek
classics in fancier surrounds, with higher prices and good wine lists but not necessarily better food.
Zaharoplasteio A cross between a patisserie and a café (though some only do take-away).

Mezedes & Starters

Mezedes (appetisers) are normally shared before the main meal, though it
is quite acceptable to make a full meal of them. You can also order a pikilia
(mixed mezedes plate).
Common mezedes are dips such as taramasalata (fish roe), tzatziki (yo-
gurt, cucumber and garlic), melidzanosalata (aubergine or eggplant) and

GOURMET DELIGHTS
You can pick up a range of delicious souvenirs on your travels, such as excellent Cretan honey,
aromatic herbs and teas, spoon sweets (traditional syrupy fruit preserves) pickles, raki and, of
course, olive oil. Some of the best places for local produce are women’s cooperatives such as
Krousonas (p163) where you can see women at work and buy some excellent traditional prod-
ucts, including rusks, spoon sweets, pastries, biscuits and pastas. In Hania, Miden Agan (p88)
has a delectable range of deli foods, olive oils and an extensive wine selection, as does Avli Raw
Materials (p129) in Rethymno.
 60 FOOD & DRINK •• Dining Out lonelyplanet.com

DOS & DON’TS

„ Do ask to look in the pots in the kitchen or select your own fish.
„ Do ask for specific local specialities in every region.
„ Don’t insist on paying if you are invited out – it insults your host.
„ Don’t refuse a coffee or glass of raki – it’s offered as a gesture of hospitality and good will.

fava (split-pea puree). Hot mezedes include keftedes (meatballs), loukanika

(village sausages), bourekaki (tiny meat pies), saganaki (fried cheese) and
apaki (vinegar-cured pork). Vegetarian mezedes include rice-filled dolmades,
deep-fried zucchini or aubergine slices, gigantes (lima beans in tomato and
herb sauce), and vegetable fritters, most commonly kolokythokeftedes (with
zucchini) or domatokeftedhes (with tomato).
Typical seafood mezedes are pickled or grilled Ohtapodi (octopus), cured
lakerda (fish), mussel or prawn saganaki (cooked with tomato sauce and
cheese), crispy fried calamari, fried maridha (whitebait) and gavros (mild
anchovy) either marinated or grilled.
Soup is not normally eaten as a starter, but can be an economical and hearty
meal in itself with bread and a salad. Psarosoupa is a fish soup with vegetables;
kakavia (Greek bouillabaisse) is made to order and laden with seafood. If
you’re into offal, don’t miss mayiritsa, the traditional Easter tripe soup.
The ubiquitous Greek or village salad, horiatiki salata, accompanies most
meals and is made with tomatoes, cucumber, onions, olives and feta cheese,
sprinkled with oregano and dressed with olive oil, occasionally garnished
with fresh glistrida (purslane or capers). Hand-cut potatoes fried in olive
oil are also a favourite.

Mains
In tavernas, main dishes normally include a combination of one-pot and
oven-baked dishes (mayirefta) and food cooked to order (tis oras) such as
grills. Fancier and more international-style restaurants have more conven-
tional menus. The most common mayirefta are boureki (a cheese, zucchini
Feasting and Fasting and potato bake), mousakas (layers of aubergine, minced meat and potatoes
in Crete, by Diana Farr topped with cheese sauce and baked), pastitsio (baked cheese-topped pasta
Louis, is a hard-back with minced meat), yemista (stuffed tomatoes or green peppers), yuvetsi
portrait of the island (casserole of lamb or veal and pasta), stifado (braised meat with onions),
and its culinary history soutzoukakia (spicy meatballs in tomato sauce) and hohlii (snails). Ladhera
traditions. It includes 140 are largely vegetable dishes stewed or baked with plenty of olive oil.
recipes gathered during Mayirefta are usually prepared early in the day and left to cool, which
her travels and chapters enhances the flavour (they are better served lukewarm than microwaved).
on the island’s wine, Meat is commonly baked with potatoes, with lemon and oregano, or
cheeses and herbs as cooked in tomato-based stews or casseroles (kokkinisto).
well as special recipes for Most places will make tasty charcoal-grilled meats such as brizoles (pork
weddings and religious chops) or païdakia (lamb cutlets).
festivities. Seafood mains may include octopus with macaroni, and squid stuffed with
cheese and herbs or rice. Cuttlefish (soupies) is excellent grilled or stewed
with wild fennel. Fried salted cod served with skordalia (a lethal garlic and
potato dip) is another tasty dish.
Fish is usually sold by weight in restaurants and it is customary to pick your
victim from the selection on display or in the kitchen. Make sure it’s weighed
(raw) so you don’t get a shock when the bill arrives, as fresh fish is not cheap.
While Crete’s fishing industry ensures a lot of fresh fish, there is certainly
not enough local fish to cater for the millions of tourists who descend each
lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s 61

summer. Most places will state if the fish and seafood is frozen, though
sometimes only on the Greek menu (indicated by the abbreviated ‘kat’ or
an asterisk). Smaller fish are often a safer bet – the odder the sizes, the more For updates, information
chance that they are local. and articles on Greek
The choice fish for grilling are tsipoura (gilthead sea bream), lavraki (sea and Mediterranean food,
bass) and fangri (bream), while smaller fish such as barbunya (red mullet) are check out www
delicious fried. See the Food Glossary (p64) for other common fish names. .gourmed.gr.

Sweet Treats
Fruit, rather than sweets, is traditionally served after a meal – but that’s not
to say that you won’t find some delectable local sweets and cakes. Women
pride themselves on their baking and confectionary skills.
As well as traditional Greek sweets such as baklava, loukoumades (fritters
with honey or syrup), kataïfi (chopped nuts inside shredded pastry soaked
in honey), rizogalo (rice pudding), and galaktoboureko (custard-filled pastry
with syrup), Cretans have their own sweet specialities.
Sfakianes pite, from the Sfakia region of Hania, are fine pancake-like sweets
with a light myzithra filling, served with honey. Xerotigana are deep-fried
pastry twirls with honey and nuts.
Traditional syrupy fruit preserves (known as spoon sweets) are served on
tiny plates but are also delicious as a topping on yogurt or ice cream. Some
tavernas serve halva (made from semolina) after a meal.

Quick Eats
Souvlaki is the favourite fast food of Crete. Gyros, skewered or kebab ver-
sions are wrapped in pitta bread, with tomato, onion and lashings of tzatz-
iki. There are plenty of western-style fastfoudadika, as fast-food joints are
known, in major cities and towns. A range of pittes including kalitsounia
and the classic tyropita (cheese pie) and spanakopita (spinach pie) – can be
found in bakeries. If you are in a hurry but want a real meal, tavernas with
mayirefta are the best bet.

VEGETARIANS & VEGANS

Crete has very few vegetarian restaurants per se, but a combination of lean
times and the Orthodox faith’s fasting traditions has made Cretans accidental
vegans, so there are normally plenty of vegetarian options. Ladhera are the
mainstay of religious fasts. Beans and pulses were the foundation of the
winter diet, so you will find dishes such as delicious gigantes (lima beans in
tomato and herb sauce).
Look for dishes such fasolakia yiahni (green bean stew), gemista (stuffed
tomatoes) and bamies (okra). Aubergines are also widely used, particularly
in dishes such as briam (mixed vegetables).
Horta (wild greens) are extremely nutritious. The vlita variety are the
sweetest, while stamnagathi, found in the mountains, is considered a deli-
cacy and served boiled as a salad or stewed with meat. Other common horta
include wild radish, dandelion, stinging nettles and sorrel. There are more than 100
edible horta (wild greens)
Fruit on Crete, although even
Crete grows many varieties of beautiful fruit, which are tastier than super- the most knowledgeable
market offerings back home. A delicious fruit that grows wild on the opunctia would not recognise
cactus is the frangosyko (prickly pear, also known as the Barbary fig), though more than a dozen.
they need to be approached with extreme caution because of the thousands
of tiny prickles (invisible to the naked eye) that cover their skin. Never pick
one up with your bare hands. Peel them by trimming the ends off with a
knife and slit the skin from end to end.
62 FOOD & DRINK •• Eating With Kids lonelyplanet.com

Another unusual fruit you may see are mousmoula (loquats), small orange
fruit with juicy flesh that are pleasantly acidic.

EATING WITH KIDS

Crete is very child-friendly and families will feel comfortable at informal
tavernas and psistarias, where children are welcome and treated well and no-
one is too fussed if they play between the tables. You will often see families
dining out late at night and packs of children playing outside tavernas while
their parents indulge in a long dinner. Kids’ menus are not common, but
most places will make up special plates or accommodate requests.

HABITS & CUSTOMS

Hospitality is a key element of Cretan culture, from the glass of water on
arrival to the customary complimentary fruit and raki at the end of a meal.
People prefer to share lots of dishes, which makes for more social and re-
laxed dining and allows you to taste everything. Cretans rarely eat alone.
Cretans aren’t big on breakfast. Budget hotels usually provide continental-
style breakfasts (rolls or bread with jam, and tea or coffee) and more up-
market hotels serve full buffets including Cretan-style pastries.
Athough changes in working hours are affecting traditional meal pat-
terns, lunch is still usually the big meal of the day and does not start until
after 2pm. Most Greeks wouldn’t think of eating dinner before dark, which
coincides with shop closing hours, so restaurants don’t fill up until after
10pm. In between, cafés do a roaring trade, particularly after the mid-
afternoon siesta (when many places become ghost towns).
Dining is a drawn-out ritual so, if you are eating with locals, pace your-
self and don’t gorge on mezedes, because there will be plenty more to
come. The service can be slow by western standards, but staff are not in
a rush to get you out of there either. Once you have your meals they are
likely to leave you alone and will often not clear the table until you ask
for the bill. Cretans order plenty of dishes and have food left over at the
end of the meal. Many places will oblige if you want to take leftovers with
you, though when locals do so, it really is a doggie bag.
Ordering a Greek salad or tzatziki as a meal – a common practice
among young and budget tourists – is often quietly sneered at by the
restaurant staff.

PRESERVING TRADITION
Since making Crete her second home, Greek American chef Nikki Rose has become a quiet am-
bassador for preserving Cretan culture with sustainable agrotourism through her programme,
Crete’s Culinary Sanctuaries.
As well as cooking demonstrations in local homes, Rose takes small groups to visit people who
still take the time to still make cheese, honey or bake bread in an old wood oven the traditional
way. ‘It’s a lifestyle that’s fast disappearing,’ she explains.
By slowly establishing an informal islandwide network of organic farms and small producers
using traditional methods, she hopes to help preserve Crete’s culinary heritage.
‘Sustainable tourism and agriculture work together to create better quality tourism and protect
the environment and at the same time protect the communities.’
Rose is concerned about the increasing number of ‘agro-Disney’ ventures, which she fears are
alienating and squeezing out the real thing.
‘It’s very dangerous for real cultural heritage preservation. The tourists don’t venture to a real
village but they go to these re-creations of traditional Cretan life. If these traditional villages still
exist, people should at least go to those places and leave their tourist dollars there.’
lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Cooking Courses 63

Greeks don’t traditionally drink coffee after a meal and many tavernas
don’t offer it.
Cretan Cooking, by Maria
COOKING COURSES and Nikos Psilakis, is a
Culinary tours and cooking courses are becoming more popular on Crete. well-translated version
General courses start from €50. of their popular guide
Rodialos (% 28340 51310, www.rodialos.gr) regularly hosts one- to seven- to Cretan cooking. It
day cooking seminars in a lovely villa in Panormo near Rethymno. contains 265 mouth-
Mary Frangaki takes participants through the principles of Cre- watering recipes, some
tan cooking and cooks several courses. Rodialos also hosts holistic fascinating asides on the
programmes incorporating yoga and t’ai chi. Workshops cost €50 history of the dishes and
per day and include eating what you cook. Participants can stay at background to the Cretan
the villa. Check the website for more details. dietary phenomenon.
Enagron (%28340 61611; www.enagron.gr) outside the village of Axos runs cook-
ing workshops and also organises seasonal events around the production
of cheese, wine and raki. The farm setting is lovely and there is accom-
modation on site (see p136).
Crete’s Culinary Sanctuaries (www.cookingincrete.com) focuses on organic ag-
riculture and traditional approaches to Cretan cuisine with hands-on
classes and demonstrations in people’s homes, visits to local farm-
ers and producers. Headed by Greek-American chef and writer Nikki
The Glorious Foods of
Rose, the custom-made courses are conducted around Crete (see boxed
Greece, by award-winning
text, opposite).
Greek-American food
Tastes of Crete (%28210 41458; www.diktynna-travel.gr) is an informal hands-on
writer Diane Kochilas,
one-day cooking seminar held in an impressive 18th-century farmhouse
is a ‘must have’ for any
about 10 minutes from Hania. Classes are limited to eight people and are
serious cook, with a
held twice weekly from May to October. Classes cost €95, which includes
regional exploration of
transfers, visits to markets, lessons and lunch.
Greek food and a 60-page
Logari (%2810 752 808; www.logari.gr) was founded by Katerina Hamilaki who
chapter on Crete.
runs regular cooking seminars and food-related holidays at her farm and
taverna in Katalagari, near Iraklio, which also has a raki still.

EAT YOUR WORDS

Get behind the cuisine scene by getting to know the language. For pronun-
ciation guidelines see p234.

Useful Phrases
I want to make a reservation Θέλω να κλείσω ένα τραπέζι
for this evening. για απόψε.
the·lo na kli·so e·na tra·pe·zi ya a·po·pse
A table for … please. Ένα τραπέζι για … παρακαλώ.
e·na tra·pe·zi ya …, pa·ra·ka·lo
I’d like the menu, please. Το μενού, παρακαλώ.
to me·nu, pa·ra·ka·lo
Do you have a menu in English? Εχετε το μενού στα αγγλικά;
e·hye·te to me·nu sta ang·li·ka?
I’d like … Θα ήθελα …
tha i·the·la …
Please bring the bill. Το λογαριασμό, παρακαλώ.
to lo·ghar·ya·zmo, pa·ra·ka·lo
I’m a vegetarian. Είμαι χορτοφάγος.
i·me hor·to·fa·ghos
I don’t eat meat or Δε τρώω κρέας ή γαλακτοκομικά
dairy products. προϊόντα.
dhen tro·o kre·as i gha·la·kto·ko·mi·ka pro·i·on·da
64 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet.com

Food Glossary
STAPLES
pso·mi ψωμί bread
vu·ti·ro βούτυρο butter
ti·ri τυρί cheese
a·vgha αυγά eggs
me·li μέλι honey
gha·la γάλα milk
e·le·o·la·dho ελαιόλαδο olive oil
e·lyes ελιές olives
pi·pe·ri πιπέρι pepper
a·la·ti αλάτι salt
za·ha·ri ζάχαρη sugar
ksi·dhi ξύδι vinegar

MEAT, FISH & SEAFOOD

vo dhi no βοδινό beef
ro·fos ροφός blackfish
ko·to·pu·lo κοτόπουλο chicken
sou·pia σουπιά cuttlefish
ke·fa·los κέφαλος grey mullet
sfi·ri·da σφυρίδα grouper, white
zam·bon ζαμπόν ham
la·ghos λαγός hare
ka·tsi·ka·ki κατσικάκι kid (goat)
ar·ni αρνί lamb
a·sta·kos αστακός lobster
ko·li·os κολιός mackerel
mi·di·a μύδια mussels
ohta·po·dhi χταπόδι octopus
hyi·ri·no χοιρινό pork
gha·ri·dhes γαρίδες prawns
kou·ne·li κουνέλι rabbit
bar·bou·nia μπαρμπούνια red mullet
sar·dhe·les σαρδέλες sardines
la·vra·ki λαβράκι sea bass
fa·ghri/li·thri·ni/me·la·nou·ri φαγρί/λιθρίνι/μελανούρι sea bream
ka·la·ma·ri καλαμάρι squid
ksi·fi·as ξιφίας swordfish
ma·ri·dha μαρίδα whitebait
mos-ha-ri ga-lak-tos μοσχάρι γαλάκτος veal

FRUIT & VEGETABLES

mi·lo μήλο apple
ang·gi·na·ra αγγινάρα artichoke
spa·rang·gi σπαράγγι asparagus
me·li·dza·na μελιτζάνα aubergine
la·ha·no λάχανο cabbage
ka·ro·to καρότο carrot
ke·ra·si κεράσι cherry
sy-ka σύκα figs
skor·dho σκόρδο garlic
sta·fi·li·a σταφύλια grapes
(a·ghri·a) hor·ta (άγρια) χόρτα greens, wild
le·mo·ni λεμόνι lemon
lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words 65

kre·mi·dhi·a κρεμμύδια onions

por·to·ka·li πορτοκάλι orange
ro·dha·ki·no ροδάκινο peach
a·ra·kas αρακάς peas
pi·per·yes πιπεριές peppers
pa·ta·tes πατάτες potatoes
spa·na·ki σπανάκι spinach
fra·u·la φράουλα strawberry
do·ma·ta ντομάτα tomato
kar-pou-zi καρπούζι watermelon
gli-stri-da γλυστριδα purslane

DRINKS
bi·ra μπύρα beer
ka·fes καφές coffee
καφές ραkί raki
tsa·i τσάι tea
ne·ro νερό water
kra·si (ko·ki·no/a·spro) κρασί (κόκκινο/άσπρο) wine (red/white)
 66

Environment
THE LAND
Crete is the largest island in the Greek archipelago with an area of 8335 sq km.
It’s 250km long, about 60km at its widest point and 12km at its narrowest.
The island has an extraordinary geographical and ecological diversity, with
mountainous ranges, dramatic gorges, a vast coastline and a plethora of caves.
Crete’s biodiversity also provides a broad range of habitats for wildlife in a
relatively small geographic area, including a few interior wetlands. The island
is renowned for its flora and in spring there is an abundance of wildflowers,
including many endemic and rare species.
Three major mountain groups – the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) in
the west, Mt Psiloritis (also known as Mt Idi) in the centre and the Lasithi
Mountains in the east – define the island’s rugged interior. The Lefka Ori
are known for their spectacular gorges, such as Samaria, plus the snow that
lingers on the mountains well into spring. The Omalos Plateau is in the Lefka
Ori at an altitude of 1000m. The highest mountain peak is Psiloritis (p137),
at 2456m. It has hundreds of caves, including the Ideon Andron Cave where
Zeus allegedly grew up, and the Rouvas Forest on its southern slopes.
The Lasithi Mountains harbour the famous Lasithi Plateau (p191) and Mt
Dikti (2148m) whose southern slopes preserve an example of the magnificent
forests that once blanketed the island. Far-eastern Crete is the driest part of
the island and its highest mountain is the wild Mt Thripti at 1476m.
Western Crete is the most mountainous and greenest part of the island,
while eastern Crete tends to be barren and rocky. Most of the interior is
mountainous and marked by olive trees, scrub and wild herbs. High upland
plateaus are either cultivated or used for pasturing goats (like the Omalos
Plateau). The largest cultivable area in the south is the fertile Mesara Plain.
Lake Kournas (p117), near Hania, is the only natural freshwater lake on the
island. Gavdos island (p106), the most southerly point in Europe, just 300km
from Africa, is also part of Crete.

WILDLIFE
Animals
While Crete is known for its massive population of sheep and goats, the
island is also home to some endemic fauna, including the indigenous large
and big-eared Cretan spiny mouse, and a large population of bats, insects,
Fossils discovered in an snails and invertebrates.
underwater cave in Hania One of the more intriguing rare animals on Crete is the fourokattos (wild
in 2000 were revealed to cat), about which shepherds have been telling tales for centuries. Scientists
be a new species of dwarf assumed it only existed in legend, until a British scientist bought two strange
elephant that existed pelts at a market in Hania in 1905. The only other proof ever found was in
only in Crete 50,000 to 1996 when Italian scientists studying Cretan fauna discovered a 5.5kg cat
60,000 years ago – the in a trap. It remains unclear whether the cat was indigenous to the island or
creature now known as whether it was a domesticated animal that ran wild.
the Cretan Elephant (or Other local species include the tiny Cretan tree frog and the Cretan
Elephas Chaniensis). marsh frog. The southern coastline and its steep underwater cliffs are home
to the Mediterranean Sea’s most significant population of sperm whales,
who gather, feed, breed and possibly mate in the area year-round. The
southern coast is also inhabited by large groups of striped dolphins, Risso’s
dolphins and Cuvier’s beaked whales. Bottlenose dolphins are often spotted
in the shallow waters between Gavdos and Gavdopoula, as well as off the
southern coast.
lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 67

The Cretan Sperm Whale Project, run by the Pelagos Cetacean Research
Institute, monitors the whale population and has an eco-volunteer pro-
gramme. Private dolphin-spotting trips are run from Paleohora (p103).

BIRD LIFE
Crete is a superb destination for bird-watchers as the island is on the main
flying routes from East Africa. The island’s large and diverse variety of bird
life includes many resident and migratory species, as well as some rare
Hard-core bird-watchers
predatory birds. Along the coast you’ll find birds of passage such as egrets
should come equipped
and herons during spring and autumn migrations. Various species of gull
with A Birdwatching
nest on coastal cliffs and offshore islets. Rare hawks migrate up from Africa
Guide to Crete by
during the summer to nest on the offshore islets. Wood pigeons still nest in
Stephanie Coghlan or, for
cliffs along the coast, but have been hunted to near extinction.
a comprehensive refer-
The mountains host a wealth of interesting birds. Look for blue rock thrushes,
ence on Greece’s birdlife,
buzzards and the huge griffon vulture. Other birds in the mountains include
try The Birds of Greece by
Alpine swifts, stonechats, blackbirds and Sardinian warblers. The fields around
Christopher Helm.
Malia host tawny and red-throated pipits, stone-curlews, fan-tailed warblers
and short-toed larks. On the hillsides below the Moni Preveli (p140) you may
find ruppells and subalpine warblers. The Akrotiri Peninsula (p89) is good for
bird-watching – around the monasteries of Agias Triadas and Gouvernetou
you’ll find collared and pied flycatchers, wrynecks, tawny pipits, black-eared
wheatears, blue rock thrushes, stonechats, chukars and northern wheatears.
Migrating species such as waders, egrets and gulls are found on Souda Bay.
There are small natural wetlands around Crete, while a number of new
dams and reservoirs created in the last decade have also become significant
Crete is one of the
wetland habitats for migratory birds. Lookouts and observation decks have
most significant
been built in key bird-watching areas.
refuel stopovers for birds
migrating between Africa
ENDANGERED SPECIES
and Europe in spring and
Crete’s most famous animal is the agrimi or kri-kri, a distinctive wild goat
autumn, while many
with large horns often depicted in Minoan art. Only a few survive in the wild
migratory birds choose
in and around the Samaria Gorge (p93p93) and on the islands of Agioi Theodori
to spend the winter
off Hania and Dia off Iraklio.
in Crete.
You may spot a lammergeier (bearded vulture) – one of the rarest raptors
in Europe, with a wing span of nearly three metres – in the Samaria Gorge
or hovering above the Lasithi Plateau. The species is now threatened with
extinction. Crete has the only four birds known to be in Greece
Crete is battling to protect its population of loggerhead turtles, which have
been nesting on Crete since the days of the dinosaurs (see boxed text, p69).
The island also has a small population of the rare and endangered Mediter-
ranean monk seals breeding in caves on the south coast.

Plants
Crete has one of the world’s most amazing variety of plants and wild flowers
and is a mecca for botanical enthusiasts. One Japanese fanatic on a special- Walks with Crete’s Spring
ist tour came just to see one particular rare tulip. It has been estimated that Flowers, by Jeff Coleman,
there are about 2000 plant species on the island and about 160 of those are is based on walks around
endemic to Crete. The island’s gorges are mini-botanical gardens and their the southwestern corner
isolation helped preserve many endemic species. of Crete, particularly
As a rule, a visit in March or April is the surest way to see the island in Loutro, Paleohora and the
full flower, but mountain plants and flowers often bloom later in the year Samaria Gorge.
and late rains can also extend the growing season.
Along the coast, sea daffodils flower in August and September. In April
and May knapweeds are in flower on the west coast and the purple or violet
petals of stocks provide pretty splashes of colour on sandy beaches. At the
 68 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s lonelyplanet.com

same time of year in eastern Crete, especially around Sitia, watch for crimson
poppies on the borders of the beach. At the edge of sandy beaches that are not
yet lined with a strip of hotels you’ll find delicate pink bindweeds and jujube
trees that flower from May to June and bear fruit in September and October.
The Flowers of Greece & In the same habitat is the tamarisk tree, which flowers in the spring.
the Aegean, by William Further away from the beach in the lowlands are junipers and holm oak
Taylor and Anthony trees, as well as spring-flowering poppies and purple lupins. If you come in
Huxley, is the most the summer, you won’t be deprived of colour since milky white and magenta
comprehensive field oleanders bloom from June through to August.
guide to flowers in Greece On the hillsides look for cistus and brooms in early summer, and yellow
and Crete. chrysanthemums in the fields from March to May. The rare endemic blue car-
pet blooms called Blavees are only found in the high peaks of the Lefka Ori.
Many varieties of orchid (including 14 endemic species) and ophrys
bloom in the spring on the lower slopes of the mountains, turning the
hills and meadows pink, purple and violet. The area around the mountain
village of Spili is renowned for its abundance of wild orchid species and
tulips. Dense-flowering orchids, pink-flowered butterfly orchids and Cretan
cyclamens grow on the Lasithi Plateau. Purple and crimson anemones are
seen in the same habitat in early spring, followed by yellow buttercups and
crowfoots in late spring.
Crete has one of the richest varieties of indigenous herbs in the world,
There are more than 200
collected for both medicinal and cooking uses. The native dittany (diktamo)
species of wild orchid
tea, is renowned for its healing effects and pungent Cretan wild oregano is
on Crete, including 14
among the best in Greece. Aromatic sage, rosemary, thyme and oregano grow
endemic varieties and
wild in the mountains and countryside, while you can find all sorts of Cretan
Crete’s famous Ophrys
herbal remedies at Marianna’s Workshop in Maroulas (p132).
Cretica, which uses its
insect-like appearance as
a disguise to attract male
NATIONAL PARKS
The only national park in Crete is the Samaria Gorge (p93), the largest and
insects.
most impressive gorge in Europe (and also on the tentative list for Unesco’s
World Heritage sites). It is 16km long and has a visitor centre. No-one lives
in the gorge; it is an important sanctuary for birds and animals, particular
the kri kri. Vast sections of Crete are also part of the special conservation
area network of the European NATURA 2000 programme.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
The level of environmental awareness in Crete is very slowly increasing, although
environmental regulation is still lacking. While the concept of eco-tourism is
being paid lip-service, too few legitimately eco-friendly developments have
emerged. Indeed, a number of alarming development proposals have caused
major protests in recent times. The most controversial is a plan to by a British
consortium to build a massive €1.6 billion ‘eco-friendly’ luxury development on
virgin coastline in far eastern Crete on land belonging to the Toplou monastery.
Objections to the plans – for three golf courses and several hotels and six villages
in an area with no water or infrastructure, requiring desalination and wastewater
Plants of Crete (Mystis treatment plans – were taken to Greece’s highest court. Environmental groups
Publication) is a have also been mobilised over contentious plans for a major shipping container
comprehensive glossy port in Tymbaki, which would spoil a huge section of the south coast.
botanical guide by An- There are no recycling programmes on Crete even though the huge influx
tonis Alibertis outlining of summer visitors produces tonnes of rubbish. Most tourist areas are kept
the healing, aromatic and relatively rubbish-free, but in the interior you will often be treated to the
edible plants and herbs pungent odour of garbage decomposing in an illegal dump. There have been
of Crete. moves for the country to clean up its act, however, after the EU fined Greece
more than €5 million for not acting on its toxic waste dump at Kouroupitos
in western Crete, the problem has not gone away.
lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 69

LOGGERHEAD TURTLES
Since 1990 Archelon (Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece; www.archelon.gr) has worked with state
agencies, local authorities, hotel groups, tour operators, fishing operators and local residents to
reverse the decline of Crete’s population of loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta).
The north-coast beaches around Rethymno and Hania as well as the south coast along the
Mesara Gulf host more than 550 nests each summer – the turtles lay their eggs in the middle
of the sandy beaches. Sadly, the ribbons of hotels and tavernas on the northern beaches have
seriously disturbed their nesting habits. Because they are so vulnerable on land, the females are
frightened by objects on the beach at night and can refuse to lay eggs, while hatchlings emerg-
ing at night are disoriented by tavern and hotel lights.
Archelon patrols about 33km of beach through the nesting and hatching season, mostly around
Rethymno, Matala and Hania. Signposted metal cages are put around nests to protect them from
sun-beds and tourists, many hatcheries are fenced off and the problem of lights on the beach is
gradually being addressed by hotels, with the Grecotel group leading the way in implementing
Archelon’s directives on lighting.
Volunteers are always welcome to assist in their patrol and monitoring work and help to
staff information booths, with a minimum stay of one month (contact the Archelon main office
in Athens via the website).
The society has the following advice for visitors:
„ Leave the beaches clear at night during the May to October nesting season.
„ Remove umbrellas and sun-loungers at night.
„ Don’t touch baby turtles on the way to the sea; they must orient themselves and the walk
strengthens them.
„ Urge hotel and taverna owners to cooperate with the society and shade their lights when necessary.
„ Dispose of rubbish properly; plastic bags, which the turtles mistake for jellyfish, are lethal.

Outside the major cities Crete’s air and water is clean, but the flora and
fauna are under pressure from deforestation. Centuries of olive cultivation, Almost a quarter of
firewood gathering, shipbuilding, uncontrolled livestock breeding, over- Greece’s cleanest beaches
grazing and arson have laid waste to the forests that had carpeted the island are on Crete. In 2007, 96
at one time. There is no tree-replanting programme, possibly because the beaches in Crete were
90,000 goats living on the island would chew through the saplings. The use awarded the European
of pesticides and herbicides in farming has eliminated many bird and plant Blue Flag Beach rating. Of
species, and hunting has decimated the animal population. those, 39 beaches were in
It is along Crete’s shoreline that environmental damage is most acute. Ma- Lasithi prefecture (for the
rine life has suffered from overfishing and the local habit of fishing with dy- full list see www
namite and overdevelopment of the northern coast is chasing away migratory .blueflag.org).
birds. Worldwide concern has been roused for the plight of the loggerhead
turtles, which nest on the same sandy beaches that tourists prize (see below).
As tourism on Crete has ballooned over the last two decades, the island
has had to cope with increasing demands for electricity and renewable
energy sources. Solar power is widely used domestically and by hotels For the latest information
and there were plans to build a large solar plant. More than a dozen wind on environmental issues
farms around the island also inject much-needed power into the island’s and organisations in
electricity grid. Crete, as well as petitions
On the plus side, organic farming is taking off, along with a move against eco-unfriendly
towards sustainable tourism. Several big hotel groups have introduced projects, go to www
eco-friendly practices in their resorts. Green organisations, such as WWF .ecocrete.gr.
Greece and Greenpeace, have become increasingly active in Greece over
the past 10 years, and many local environmental groups have been formed
in Crete, most of whom are part of the island-wide Ecocrete network.
 70

Crete Outdoors
Crete’s rugged terrain, soaring mountains, dramatic gorges and cobalt-
blue seas are a nature-lover’s dream. While the heat in summer can make
you just want to hit the beach, Crete is a year-round destination for trav-
The three-volume GPS- ellers interested in more active experiences and adventure travel. You
compatible 1:100.000 can climb its high peaks in spring or cycle around the Lasithi Plateau
scale touring maps by in summer. Spring and autumn are the best time for great walks and
Anavasi (%210 321 serious hikes through beautiful gorges or along scenic coastal paths and
8104; www.anavasi alpine trails.
.gr) show the E4 across In recent years opportunities for active and challenging holidays have
Crete but its walking increased, with several specialist operators running activities on the island.
maps cover sections in There are excellent horse-riding trails and more extreme pursuits such as
greater detail (at a scale paragliding, bungee jumping, caving, canyoning or sea kayaking along the
of 1:25,000) for the Lefka south coast. Crete’s warm, clear waters offer excellent opportunities for
Ori (Sfakia and Pahnes), diving and snorkelling. Windsurfers head to Kouremenos on the east coast,
Samaria/Sougia, Mt and all around the island you will find every imaginable water sport.
Psiloritis and Zakros-Vai.
HIKING & TREKKING
Crete offers an enormous variety of options for keen hikers and trekkers
that take you through remote villages, across plains and into gorges. Un-
fortunately, excellent hiking opportunities are poorly documented – there
are few detailed English-language guides in publication – and the trails
themselves are generally inadequately marked.
The exception to this is the E4 trail, which runs the length of Crete (see
boxed text, opposite), though some parts of that are also tricky to find.
Add to this the generally rugged and arid nature of Crete’s terrain and
you’ll soon see why hiking and trekking here can be both a blessing and
For maps, photos and a bane. Nonetheless, the island’s generally untrodden interior is probably
detailed information and its attraction and, while the majority of visitors may opt for a guided hike,
advice on sections of the experienced walkers will find plenty to challenge and stimulate them.
E4 trail, check out the Some of the most popular hikes, including the Samaria Gorge (p93),
website www.crete are detailed throughout this book, and there are newly marked trails at
.tournet.gr. Zakros (p200).
While Crete is a veritable paradise for hikers, walking is not much fun
between July and August, when the temperatures can reach 40°C. Spring
is when walkers descend en masse.
Crete’s numerous gorges attract hikers from all over the world. The
walks can be a breathtaking (and hard-going) experience. Along the way
you can enjoy the aroma of wild herbs and flowers, stop at shaded picnic
spots and wade through streams (in spring and autumn).
Gorge walking will involve a bit of planning if you have your own trans-
port. You will either have to walk back the same way to pick up your
vehicle, or arrange for someone to collect you at the other end. Buses can
More than 160,000 normally get you to within striking distance of a gorge entrance. Most
people hike the Samaria gorge walks are doable by anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. Here
gorge each year, making is a select list of some of the more accessible gorges:
it Crete’s second most Agia Irini Gorge (p101) A full-day walk best tackled from the village of Agia Irini north of Sougia.
popular tourist attraction This is a challenging hike with dramatic landscape varying from alpine to coastal. It ends at Sougia.
after Knossos. Agiofarango (p174) A popular hike in south-central Crete running from Moni Odigitrias, 24km
southwest of Mires, it ends at a lovely beach.
Hohlakies Gorge Not as well known as its near neighbour at Zakros, this short (3km) walk runs
from Hohlakies village to the coast. Hikers can walk a further 7km northwards to Palekastro.
lonelyplanet.com C R E T E O U T D O O R S • • H i k i n g & T re k k i n g 71

Imbros Gorge (p95) Perhaps the second most-popular gorge walk after Samaria, it runs from the
village of Imbros for 8km to Komitades, near Hora Sfakion.
Rouvas Gorge (p167) This short link hike runs from the village of Zaros on the southern slopes
of Psiloritis to meet up with the alpine route of the E4 trail. It’s a convenient way to get to and
from the trans-Crete hike.

THE E4 ROUTE
The trans-European E4 walking trail starts in Portugal and ends in Crete. In Crete the trail picks
up at the port of Kissamos-Kastelli in the west and ends – after 320km – on the pebbly shore of
Kato Zakros in eastern Crete. Enthusiasts planning to tackle the Cretan leg can do it in a mini-
mum of three weeks, allowing for 15km per day, or more comfortably in four weeks allowing
for stops and/or shorter hiking trips. You can, of course, tackle only sections of it if your time is
limited or if you just want to walk the most interesting parts. However, you will need to make
important decisions early on as the trail splits into two distinct sections through western Crete:
the coastal route and the alpine route.
The E4 trail is marked throughout its length with black and yellow posts and signs, but is not
always well maintained: paths are overgrown and in many sections signs are hard to find. The
E4 can be a lonely trail and there is no food (and little water) along most of the route, so it is
always wise to get local advice before setting off.
From Kissamos-Kastelli the route first takes a long dip south, following the western coast via
Elafonisi to Paleohora. From Paleohora there is a pleasant hike to Sougia (see the boxed text,
p106). The first big decision must be made at Sougia. A little east of here, the E4 alpine route
shoots north and upwards and heads across the high alpine tracts of the barren Lefka Ori, while
the E4 coastal route hugs the rugged coastline as far as Kato Rodakino, between Frangokastello
and Plakias. The alpine route is for serious hikers and will involve overnighting in one of three
refuges along the way (see p74 for information on Crete’s refuges). The E4 coastal route, while
not a picnic stroll, is easier but can be quite rough in parts, and the section between Sougia and
Agia Roumeli is quite difficult to find and potentially dangerous to follow.
Neither trail actually incorporates the Samaria Gorge as part of its route, but you can easily
include it. At Sougia take the first leg of the E4 alpine route towards Omalos and hike south
down the Samaria Gorge to the coast (and the E4 coastal route) at Agia Roumeli. Alpine hikers
can, of course, head north up the gorge from Agia Roumeli and pick up the E4 alpine route near
Omalos. The alpine route from Omalos is perhaps the toughest section of the trail and should
not be attempted in the heat and aridity of summer. It is high and exposed and there is no water
other than the odd snow bank that may have lingered from winter.
From Argyroupolis, near where the two trails cross each other, the E4 alpine route now runs
south of the E4 coastal route, which itself loops northwards along the escarpment of the Psiloritis
massif. The E4 alpine route runs through the Amari Valley for some way, via Spili and Fourfouras,
before veering west and up to the summit of Mt Psiloritis (2456m). Both trails meet once more
at the Nida Plateau on the eastern side of Crete’s highest mountain (see the boxed text, p138,
for hikes in this area).
Heading eastward the now-unified trail meanders through the more populated Iraklio pre-
fecture via the villages of Profitis Ilias, Arhanes and Kastelli before climbing once more to the
Lasithi Plateau.
From Lasithi the route becomes alpine with a crossing of the Mt Dikti (2148m) range to the
south, then turning eastwards for the remote passage down to the narrow ‘neck’ of Crete between
Ierapetra and the Bay of Mirabello. Mountains take over as the trail threads its way between Mt
Thripti (1476m) to the south and Mt Orno (1238m) to the north. Settlements are fewer at this
end of the island, so each day’s hiking leg should be planned carefully.
The final leg from Papagiannades and through the villages of Handras and Ziros is less taxing
and the last village, Zakros, marks the start of the hike through the ‘Valley of the Dead’ to the
sea at Kato Zakros (see the boxed text, p200p20). This is the final leg on the long walk from Portugal
(if you have come all the way!).
 0 30 km
72

E4 WALKING TRAIL 0 20 miles

A B C D E F

MOUNTAIN SHELTERS
E4 Alpine Route Kallergi................................................1 B2
E4 Coastal Route Katsiveli-Svourihtis..............................2 B2
1 Limnarkarou.......................................3 D3
Prinos.................................................4 D3
SEA OF CRETE Tavris.................................................5 B3
Toubotos Prinos.................................6 C3
Volikas...............................................7 B2

Kissamos- Hania
Kastelli Dia
2 Souda
CRETE OUTDOORS •• E4 Walking Trail

Vryses Rethymno
Agia Irini L Iraklio
Omalos e f k 7
Gorge a
1 2O Imbros Argyroupolis
Gorge Anogia

ri
Mt Psiloritis Agios
Sougia Samaria 5 (2456m) Sitia
Arhanes Nikolaos Hohlakies
Elafonisi Gorge Kato Spili 6 Nida Kastelli Gorge
Loutro Rodakino Plateau Lasithi Bay of Mt Orno
Agia Fourfouras 4 Mirabello Valley of
Paleohora Plakias Plateau (1238m)
Roumeli Hora Profitis Papagiannades the Dead
Frangokastello Ilias 3
Sfakion Zaros Mt Dikti Kato
SAMARIA GORGE (2148m)
NATIONAL PARK Rouvas Handras Ziros Zakros
Gorge Mt Thriptis
Mires Ierapetra
3 (1476m) Makrygialos
Mesara
Gulf Matala
Agiofarango Koufonisi

Hrysi Islet
ὈὈ Gavdos

LIBYAN SEA
4
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com CRETE OUTDOORS •• Cycling & Mountain Biking 73

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES IN CRETE

The following companies run a range of organised hikes, biking and other outdoor activities
in Crete. Guide walks start from €44 per day and €500 per week including accommodation,
transfers and meals.
Axas Outdoor Activities (%2810 871 239; [email protected]) Run by walking and nature enthusiast Dimitris
Kornaros, it specialises in custom tours in off-the-beaten-track locations. It’s based in Profitis Ilias near Iraklio.
Cretan Adventures (%2810 332 772; www.cretanadventures.gr; Evans 10, Iraklio) Organises hiking and trek-
king tours, mountain biking and other specialist and extreme activities.
Happy Walker (%/fax 28310 52920; www.happywalker.com; Tobazi 56, Rethymno) Runs a range of walks from
March to November, including summer walks in the Omalos Plateau and Lefka Ori.
International Centre of Natural Activities (%6977 466900; www.icna.gr) Paragliding, caving, off-road
mountain-bike tours, hiking and climbing tours around the island. It’s based in Avdou.
Korifi Tours (%28930 41440; www.korifi.de) Hiking and climbing tours around Kapetaniana, in southern
Iraklio. It’s based in Kapetaniana.
Strata Walking Tours (%28220 24336; www.stratatours.com) In Kissamos-Kastelli, offering anything from
leisurely day trips to seven- to 15-day walking tours to the south coast.
Trekking Hellas (%28210 58952; www.greeceoutdoors.com; [email protected]) One of the biggest mainland
operators running out of Athens, it runs extensive activities in Crete.
Trekking Plan (%/fax 28210 60861; www.cycling.gr) This outfit at Agia Marina, 10km west of Hania, will take
you hiking, rock climbing, mountaining, biking and rapelling in western Crete.

The Valley of the Dead (p199) A two-hour hike in far-eastern Crete. The valley is the last sec-
tion of the E4 hiking route and runs from Zakros to the palace of Kato Zakros.
Samaria (p93) Crete’s longest and most famous walk.
Sirikari Gorge (p111) One of western Crete’s most scenic and popular walks, taking about two
hours to ancient Polyrrinia and as much again to Kissamos.
Several companies run walking and hiking tours across Crete (see boxed text,
above), including specialists Happy Walker and Strata Walking Tours.

CYCLING & MOUNTAIN BIKING

Cycling has caught on in a big way in Crete, despite the mountain-
ous terrain. While it is possible to cycle from one end of Crete to the
other and barely raise a sweat, north–south routes and the southern
coast are likely to test your stamina and fortitude. However, the escarp- British nature lover and
ment villages and valleys of the north coast and the Mesara Plain of the Crete fan Peter Thomson
south do allow for some relatively flat cycling experiences. Crete is a has created an online
mountain-biker’s dream. Walking and Cycling Guide
Many do it the easy way. Tour companies now transport you and your to Crete at www.peter
machine to the top of the mountains so you can cycle down. Plateau tours -thomson.co.uk/crete
(especially around the Lasithi Plateau) are big business. There are also /contents.html.
more extreme biking options and eight-day tours covering more than
650km (see above)
Independent cyclists coming to Crete with their own bikes are advised
to bring sturdy touring bikes with multiple gears. You can hire mountain
bikes for €8 to €20 per day from a range of places around the island.
Mountain bike tours start from €50 per day.
There are no dedicated biking guides to Crete, so you may be better off
joining a tour.
Several companies offer tours (see boxed text, above) for all levels of
experience and fitness, including specialist small operators such as Odysseas
the Cyclist (%28310 58178; [email protected]) in Rethymno, who takes
organised and custom tours.
 74 CRETE OUTDOORS •• Canyoning, Climbing & Bungee Jumping lonelyplanet.com

CANYONING, CLIMBING & BUNGEE JUMPING

While Crete doesn’t offer the kind of stunning alpine terrain that’s found in
Austria or Switzerland, the island does have a large number of mountains and es-
tablished mountaineering clubs. Each prefecture has its own club, which maintain
There are more than 3000 the E4 trail and mountain refuges. They are all members of the association of Greek
caves recorded in Crete, Mountaineering Clubs (EOS) and organise regular climbing, walking, speleology
of which about only 850 and skiing excursions around Crete, which visitors are welcome to join.
have been explored. Mountaineering Club of Hania (EOS; %28210 74560; www.interkriti.org/orivatikos/hania1
The 1208m-deep .htm; Tzanakaki 90, Hania)
Gourgouthakas cave, in Mountaineering Club of Iraklio (EOS; %2810 227 609; www.interkriti.org/orivatikos/orivat
the Lefka Ori, is one the .html; Dikeosynis 53, Iraklio; %8.30pm-10.30pm)
30 deepest caves in the Mountaineering Club of Lasithi (EOS; %28970 23230)
world (and the deepest Mountaineering Club of Rethymno (EOS; %28310 57766; www.eos.rethymnon.com;
in Greece). Its entrance is Dimokratias 12, Rethymno) Lists excursions on its website.
about a metre wide.
Huts maintained by the clubs are listed in the boxed text, below.

MOUNTAINEERING CLUB REFUGES

Name Location Altitude (m) Capacity (beds) EOS
Kallergi Near the Samaria Gorge 1680 50 Hania
Katsiveli-Svourihtis Svourihtis foothills 1970 25 Hania
Limnarkarou Lasithi Plateau 1350 15 Lasithi
Prinos Asites, East Psiloritis 1100 45 Iraklio
Tavris Plateau of Askyfou 1200 42 Hania
Toubotos Prinos Mt Psiloritis 1500 28 Rethymno
Volikas Volikas Keramion 1400 40 Hania
The multilingual Hikers tackling the E4 trail need to do some planning. While there is nearly
Canyoning in Crete, by always accommodation within the range of a six- to seven-hour daily hike,
Yiannis Bromirakis (Road some of it will need to be arranged beforehand – particularly the mountain
Editions 2007), covers refuges, where you might need to pick up keys.
many of Crete’s newly
accessible gorges in fine Canyoning
detail with maps and Canyoning is becoming increasingly popular in Crete, where there is no
drawings. shortage of wild and beautiful canyons. The newly formed Cretan Canyoning
Association (%6997 090307; www.canyon.gr) has secured more than 50 gorges in
southern Crete since 2005. Among them is the challenging Ha gorge (p205),
near Mt Thripti in eastern Crete, which until recently had been traversed
by less than a dozen people (and still numbered less than 100 in 2007).
The Association’s website has useful information and a published guide
to Crete’s canyons. It organises regular excursions and also runs beginners
courses. A four-day, four-canyon course inclusive of equipment costs €155.
Guided canyoning trips range from €45 to €70 depending on location.
Climb in Crete (www
.climbincrete.com) has
Climbing
some excellent
Apart from peak climbing up Crete’s numerous summits, scaling up the
information on climbing
cliff face of mountains and gorges is another increasingly popular sport.
and mountaineering
Southern Iraklio is one of the most popular areas for climbing, particularly
on the island, including
the stunning cliffs around Kapetaniana and Mt Kofinas on the southern
articles, photos and
flanks of the Asteroussia mountains (p175). The Agiofarango gorge (p174)
hiking guides.
is another popular climbing spot, while new sites are being opened up
around Crete, including sites at Matala and in Theriso, near Hania.
Unless you are experienced, you are advised to contact local organisa-
tions before attempting climbs. French climbing enthusiast Philippe Bugada
has published a multilingual comprehensive guide Crete (Kapetaniana/
lonelyplanet.com CRETE OUTDOORS •• Water Spor ts 75

Kofinas, €18) to about 150 climbs around Kapetaniana and Agiofarango.

It is available on Crete (or through www.lacordi telle.com).

Bungee Jumping
High above the Aradhena Gorge, on the south coast, is a spectacular bungee
jumping location, the highest bungee jumping bridge in Greece and the second
highest in Europe. Thrill seekers can jump 138m into the narrow gorge from
the bridge that crosses over the canyon. Jumps are held every weekend from
June to September by Liquid Bungy (%6937 615191; www.bungy.gr; €100 per jump).

WATER SPORTS
Crete is a paradise for water sports. Parasailing, water-skiing, jet-skiing, pedal
boating and canoeing are available on most of the major beaches. On the
northern coast, you’ll find a water-sport centre attached to most luxury hotels
and you don’t need to stay there to use the facilities. Elsewhere, specialist
operators run snorkelling and diving courses as well as windsurfing and sea
kayaking. There are few waves to catch in Crete so leave the board at home.

Sea Kayaking
Crete’s south coast has become increasingly popular for sea kayaking trips. The
dramatic cliffs and remote beaches make it a spectacular experience. Sea kay-
aking can be experienced as a day trip (from €60) or week-long trips including
accommodation and pick up. Some can also be combined with hiking. For detailed descriptions
Alpine Travel (%28210 50939; 6932 252 890; www.alpine.gr; Boniali 11-19) Based in Hania. of a range of walks
Nature Maniacs (%28250 91017; www.naturemaniacs.com) Runs sea kayaking along the around Crete, check out
south coast from its base in Loutro. an intrepid walker’s site
at www.peter-thomson
Diving & Snorkelling .co.uk/crete/contents
Crete’s warm, clear and inviting waters make snorkelling and diving a pleasure. .html
With the liberalisation of laws relating to diving, the Greek seas have been opened,
except for areas declared archaeological sites. Like much of the Mediterranean,
marine life, especially big fish, has been fished out, but Crete has stunning caverns,
dramatic cliffs and interesting locations for divers. Some of the more interesting
snorkelling is around the sunken city of Olous near Elounda (p188), while Bali
(p144), Plakias (p138)and Paleohora (p102) are popular diving sites.
Several diving centres offers courses from beginners to PADI-certification
and advanced dive courses. Under Greek law, you must dive as part of a li-
censed diving operation and you are forbidden to disturb any antiquities you
may come across. It’s wise to call at least a day in advance to book a dive.
Snorkelling trips are also widely available.
Check out these companies in the following towns:
Agios Nikolaos Cretas Happy Divers (%28410 82546; www.cretashappydivers.com) On the beach
of the Coral Hotel and at Plaka and Elounda.
Bali Hippocampos (%28340 94193 www.hippocampos.com) Near the port.
Hania Blue Adventures Diving (%28210 40608; www.blueadventuresdiving.gr; Arholeon 11)
Iraklio Diver’s Club (%2810 811 755; www.diversclub-crete.gr; Agia Pelagia); Stay Wet
(%28970 42683; www.staywet.gr; Mononaftis)
Plakias Kalypso Rock’s Palace Dive Centre (%28310 20990; www.kalypsodivingcenter.com; Eleftheriou
Venizelou 42); Phoenix Diving Club (%28320 31206; www.scu bacrete.com)
Rethymno Paradise Dive Centre (%28310 26317; www.diving-center.gr; Eleftheriou Venizelou 57)
Paleohora Aqua Creta Diving & Adventures (%28230 41393; www.aquacreta.gr)

Windsurfing
The best windsurfing in Crete is at Kouremenos Beach (p198), north of
Palekastro in Sitia. Windsurfing is also good in Almyrida (p118), near Hania.
 76 CRETE OUTDOORS •• Other Activities lonelyplanet.com

The Hellenic Windsurfing Association (%210 323 0330) in Athens can provide
general information.
Key water-sport centres:
Driros Beach (%6944 932 760; www.spinalonga-windsurf.com) At Plaka, near Elounda.
Freak Windsurf (%28430 61116, 6979 254967; www.freak-surf.com) At Kouremenos.
UCPA Sports (%28250 31443; www.ucpa.com; board hire €8 per hr) In Almyrida.

Yachting
Yachting is a great way to experience Crete, but the winds make it unreli-
able and its distance from other islands means it is not on the Greek island
yachting loop. Some companies, however, do offer daily sailing excursions.
Sailing along the southern coast allows you to see some of Crete’s finest and
most isolated beaches.
Nautilos Yacht Rentals (%28420 89986; www.ierapetra.net/nautilos) in Ierapetra take
‘Yachting is a private yacht tours around the south coast islands of Hrysi and Koufonisi,
great way to and can take you around the coast as far as Sitia.
experience Yachties can get the lowdown on sailing around Crete and Greece at www
.sailing.gr or www.yach ting.gr.
Crete…’
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Golf
Crete has a few nine-hole golf courses, but the island’s only 18-hole pro
course is the Crete Golf Club (%28920 26000; www.crete-golf.com) in Hersonisos. This
desert-style, par 72 course has been designed to blend in with the environ-
ment. The course is quite tough and also has a double-ended driving range, a
golf academy and club house. It’s not for hackers, though. An 18-hole round
in summer will set you back €67 (excluding clubs or buggies).

Horse Riding
Several places on Crete offer horse riding and guided trail rides through
the countryside.
The most impressive operation is Odysseia Stables (%28970 51080; www.horseriding
.gr) above Avdou, at the foot of Mt Dikti (p166). These new stables have excel-
lent facilities (including accommodation) and run anything from two-hour
beginners rides to three-days rides through the Lasithi Plateau and week-long
trails through the Dikti mountains to the south coast. Typical prices range
from €18 for a one hour beach ride, €35 for a two-hour hack, €55 for a day trip
and from €474 for 8-day courses including accommodation and meals.
Zoraida’s Horseriding (%28250 61745; www.zoraidas-horseriding.com), in Georgoupolis,
offers beach and nature trails, including day safaris and a six-day course for
advanced riders.
Melanouri Horse Farm (%28920 45040; www.melanouri.com) in Pitsidia near Matala
runs rides through the surrounding region.

Paragliding
Crete’s climate and terrain make it an ideal location for paragliding (known
as parapente) and it is a sensational way to see the island if you are game
to fly with the birds. There are about 45 excellent paragliding take-off sites
around Crete, mostly surrounding the three highest mountains, as well as
coastal sites such as Falasarna and Paleohora.
Certified instructor and paragliding enthusiast Grigoris Thomakakis and
his team at the International Centre of Natural Activities (%6977 466900; www.icna.gr)
run flights across the island and near their base in Avdou, south of Malia.
Day flights for experienced pilots accompanied by an instructor cost €30.
Tandem flights cost €70.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
77

Hania Χανια

HANIA
The Hania region offers visitors a wealth of activities and experiences, from mountain climb-
ing, gorge hiking and scuba diving to lazing on the beach and dining on the day’s catch
in small fishing hamlets along the coast. Despite having one of the island’s top tourist
attractions – the Samaria Gorge – Hania for the most part maintains an authentic feel. It
is renowned for its rugged natural beauty, and for its many stunning gorges and spec-
tacular mountain ranges, such as the Lefka Ori and Mt Gingilos in the rugged interior.
Its capital, the port town of Hania, is the island’s most romantic and alluring town, with
a rich mosaic of Venetian and Ottoman architecture.

The northern coastline is becoming highly developed, especially the string of beach
resorts along the Gulf of Hania, but it’s possible to find more isolated spots on the Akrotiri
Peninsula, which has two interesting monasteries, and to the west around Kissamos and
the barely inhabited Rodopou and Gramvousa peninsulas. Hania’s rocky southern coast is
dotted with laid-back beach communities such as Paleohora and Sougia. The nearly de-
serted west coast has two of Crete’s finest beaches – Falasarna in the north and Elafonisi
in the far south.

In the hinterland are traditional mountain villages where you’ll still see shepherds tending
their flocks and find family tavernas that use their own produce. In the province of Sfakia,
road signs riddled with bullet holes remind you that this is the Wild West of Crete. Eastern
Hania boasts the island’s only natural lake, Lake Kournas, and the stunning Imbros Gorge,
the underrated rival to Samaria. Gavdos island, off the southern coast in the Libyan sea, is
Greece’s southernmost island – the ultimate escape from it all.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Hiking the spectacular Samaria Gorge (p93)

and Imbros Gorge (p95) Hania
„ Wandering through the narrow streets of
Theriso
the Venetian and Turkish quarters of Hania
(p82)
Samaria
Southern Gorge
„ Relaxing on the remote southern beaches Beaches Imbros
Gorge
(p95)
„ Chilling out on the island of Gavdos (p106)
„ Exploring mountain villages such as Theriso
(p93) and indulging in the region’s
excellent cuisine.

Gavdos
 78 HA N I A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

HANIA ΧΑΝΙΑ structed massive fortifications to protect the

HANIA

city from marauding pirates and invading

Turks. They did not prove very effective
pop 55,838 against the latter, who took Hania in 1645
Hania is unreservedly Crete’s most evocative after a two-month siege.
city. Remnants of Venetian walls still border a The Turks made Hania the seat of the Turk-
web of atmospheric streets in the old town that ish Pasha until the end of Turkish rule in 1898.
tumble onto a picturesque harbour. Restored During this time the churches were converted
Venetian townhouses have been converted into mosques and the architectural style of the
into restaurants, cafés, boutique hotels and town changed, becoming more Oriental, with
attractive pensions. The prominent former wooden walls and latticed windows.
mosque on the harbour front and Ottoman- The Great Powers made Hania the island
style timber buildings scattered through the capital in 1898 and it remained so until 1971,
old town are remnants of Turkish rule. when the administration was transferred to
Hania’s war-torn history has left it with Iraklio.
only a few impressive monuments, but the The WWII Battle of Crete largely took place
city wears its scars proudly. Along Zambel- along the coast to the west of Hania. The town
iou, Theotokopoulou and Angelou streets in itself was heavily bombed during WWII, par-
the old quarter you will come across roofless ticularly around Ancient Kydonia, but enough
Venetian buildings that have been turned into of the old town survives for it to be regarded
gracious outdoor restaurants. Even during as Crete’s most beautiful city.
the height of the tourist season when many
of the buildings are festooned with tourist ORIENTATION
merchandise, Hania retains the exoticism of Hania’s bus station is on Kydonias, two blocks
a city caught between East and West. southwest of Plateia 1866. From Plateia 1866,
Hania has some of the islands finest restaur- the Venetian port is a short walk north up
ants. The town also has a tradition of artisan- Halidon. Zambeliou, once Hania’s main
ship making it a great shopping city, while the thoroughfare, is lined with craft shops, small
cafés along the harbour are ideal for relaxing hotels and tavernas. The headland near the
and watching passers-by promenade. lighthouse separates the Venetian port from
the crowded town beach in the modern Nea
HISTORY Hora quarter. In the other direction, Koum
Hania is the site of the Minoan settlement of Kapi, a rejuvenated waterfront precinct is
Kydonia, which was centred on the hill to the where younger Haniots hang out. Boats to
east of the harbour, between Akti Tombazi Hania dock at Souda, about 7km southeast
and Karaoli Dimitriou. Excavation work has of town.
been restricted because the ruins lie under the
modern city, but the finding of clay tablets with INFORMATION
Linear B script (see boxed text, p27) has led Bookshops
archaeologists to believe that Kydonia was both Mediterraneo Bookstore (%28210 86904; Akti
a palace site and an important town. Fifty late- Koundourioti 57) An extensive range of English language
Minoan graves were found in 2004 in the Agios novels and books on Crete, as well international press.
Ioannis area, part of the cemetery of ancient Newsstand (%28210 95888; Skalidi 8) A wide range
Kydonia, and excavations are continuing. of international press and magazines, books, Crete guides
Kydonia met the same fiery fate as most and maps.
other Minoan settlements in 1450 BC, but soon Pelekanakis (%28210 92512; Halidon 98) Has maps,
re-emerged as a force. It was a flourishing city- guidebooks and books in 11 languages.
state during Hellenistic times and continued to
prosper under Roman and Byzantine rule. Emergency
The city came under the control of the Tourist police (%28210 73333; Kydonias 29; h8am-
Venetians around the beginning of the 13th 2.30pm) At the Town Hall.
century, and the name was changed to La
Canea. The Venetians lost control of the Internet Access
city to the Genoese in 1266, but they finally Triple W (%28210 93478; Valadinon & Halidon; per hr
wrested it back in 1290. The Venetians con- €2; h24hr) Extensive facilities & high speed access.
 0 10 km
HANIA REGION 0 6 miles

To Antikythira; Kythira; Cape Spatha To Piraeus

Gythio; Kalamata;
Piraeus

Diktynna
lonelyplanet.com

Agria SEA OF CRETE

Rodopou
Gramvousa Cape Vouxa Peninsula
Islets
Imeri Moni Iannou Eremiti
Onyhas (Katholikou)
Stavros
Cape Tigani (748m) Moni Gouvernetou
Gulf of Hania
Balos Bay of Tersanas Moni Agias
Bay of Kissamos Afrata Triadas
Gramvousa Kalathas
Moni Gonias Agii Akrotiri
Peninsula Kalathas Peninsula
Geroskinos Kolymbari Theodori
Ravdouha Agioi
(762m) Tavronitis Agia Apostoli
Gerani Marina Hania
Falasarna Maleme
Kissamos- Platanias Marathi
Kalyviani Kastelli Nopigia Loutraki
Souda
Drapanias Perivolia Souda Bay Cape Drapano
Ano Paleokastro Kalami Drapano
Malaxa Peninsula
Platanos Kalyves
Voukolies Aptera Plaka
Voulgaro Almyrida
Polyrrinia Zimbragos Fournes
Sirikari Gavalohori
Topolia
Gorge
MEDITERRANEAN Agia Sofia
Sfinari Cave Theriso
Sirikari Lakki Vamos
SEA Koutsomatados Almyros Bay
Innahorion Meskia
Milia
Kambos To Rethymno (13km);
Vlatos Myli Zourva Vryses Iraklio (84km)
HANIA Georgioupolis
Amygdalokefali Kefali Strovies
Elos
Pappadiana Perivolia Omalos
Vathi Agia Irini Alikambos Episkopi
Drys Lef
Kandanos k aO Lake
ri Kournas
Moni Gingilos Xyloskalo Kournos
Hrysoskalitissas (2080m) SAMARIA GORGE Pahnes
Voutas Agia Irini NATIONAL PARK (2453m) Askyfou
Moni Gorge
Sam

Elafonisi Sfakia Imbros

ar
Gorg
ia
e

Elafonisi Anydri
Islet Sougia RETHYMNO
Pikilassos Imbros
Koundoura Lissos Agia
Roumeli Aradhena Gorge
Paleohora Anopolis
Cape Hora Komitades Selia
Cape
Trahili Flomes Sfakion Skaloti
Loutro
HA N I A • • H a n i a R e g i o n

Livaniana
Marble Frangokastello
See Samaria Gorge Map (p94) Beach
To Gavdos (50km)
Sweetwater Bay To Gavdos (25km) Orthi Ammos Beach
79

HANIA
ὈὈ
 80 HA N I A lonelyplanet.com

HANIA
HANIA

69
26

24
20

25
45 31 Plateia

z i
Ritsou 46 Katehaki

ba
Tom
68 Venetian 61
Theo

gelo u Port
An

Akti
66
anari 73
toko

Akti K

Ag
5 43
42
poul

Ma
39
To Akrogiali (500m);

rk
29
ou

41 35

ou
Nea Hora Beach (500m);

eli

Lithinon
Hania Camping (3km); 38 17

Sourm
us

Kalamaki Beach (3.5km) ro

ano

ou 80 47 eva
Apostolid ou 52 Kan
osh
f
Theo

Ak

ti
M

74 44 Ko 87
und

a
o u ri o t

ak
i

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82 Zam
beli
Po

37 Plateia

Kat
65 ou 79
Venizelou
rtou

uk
a

re
fo u
Do

ikiou Karaoli Dimitriou

Gava
Skou

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ylaki

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Isodion

8
71 63

ladon
K o nd

64
M Met

49 40
Halidon
Pardali

Nea
Hrys

23 59 53 77
Hora
axaki

56 18 2
Episk

4
Potie

im ou Orthodox 60
u Geras 21
Patriarho alani
Cathedral Mihali D
opou

Siavo 30 81
Bastion 13
33 Betolo Tsouderon
Plateia
Hortatson
Skrydlof
9
Mousouron

Piga Agora
75
86
11
Konstan

1 85

Kyrilou
dinou

7 Gianna
Pireos

ri
6
76
Selinou i
Skalid Kriari
Plastira

Plateia
Zymvrakidon

1866
Karaïskaki

Koraka

58
ou
m
s sa Kydonias
Ki
Mylonogianni

12
Ap
P Kalaïdi

Town
ok

To Limnoupolis (7km); Agia Marina (8km); 10

Peridou

Hall
oro

Platanias (11km); Kissamos-Kastelli (41km) 84

no

Ionias To Hospital
u

(4km)
INFORMATION Tourist Police................................... 12 D5 Ypsilandon
Alpha Bank........................................ 1 C4 Triple W Internet............................. 13 C4
Citibank.............................................2 C3 Vranas Internet..............................(see
Smyrnis 49) Etz Hayyim Synagogue.....................23 C3
Diktyna Travel....................................3 E4 Firkas Fortress...................................24 B2
KTEL..............................................(see 84) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Great Arsenal...................................25 D2
Laundry............................................. 4 D4 Agios Nikolaos..................................14 E3 Konstandinoupoleos 26 C1
Lighthouse........................................
Mediterraneo Bookstore.....................5 B2 Alpine Travel....................................15 E5 Minaret............................................27 E4
Municipal Tourist Information Ancient & Traditional Maritime Monastiri Tou Karokou.....................28 E4
Office........................................(see 12) Museum.......................................16 F2 Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan............29 C2
National Bank of Greece....................6 D4 Ancient Kydonia.............................. 17 D3 Municipal Art Gallery.......................30 C4
Newsstand.........................................7 C4 Archaeological Museum...................18 C3 Naval Museum.................................
Markou Botsari 31 B2
Old Town Laundromat.......................8 D3 Blue Adventures Diving.....................19 E2 Public Garden...................................32 F5
Pelekanakis........................................9 C4 Byzantine Collection.........................20 B2 Siavo Bastion....................................33 C4
Post Office.......................................10 D5 Cretan House Folklore Museum.......21 C4 St Rocco...........................................34 E3
Tellus Travel.....................................11 C4 EOS..................................................22 F6 Zoo................................................(see 32)
lonelyplanet.com HA N I A 81

0 200 m

HANIA
0 0.1 miles

Sea of Crete

16

51
54 SLEEPING
Amphora Hotel.................................35 B2
50 Anemi Suites.....................................36 E3
Akti Enoseos Bellmondo........................................37 C3
Arholeon

72
Casa Delfino.....................................38 B3
Casa Leone.......................................39 B2
Epimen Ianos Hotel.......................................40 D3
idou
Kalergon Ifigenia Rooms & Studios..................41 B2
57 67
55
Madonna Studios & Apartments.......42 B2
19 Monastiri Pension............................ 43 D2
Nostos Hotel.....................................44 B3
Pension Lena....................................45 B2
Pension Theresa................................46 B2
78 Porto de Colombo............................47 B3
Splanzia Hotel...................................48 E3
Splantzia Vranas Studios................................. 49 D3
Minos

34
Vourdouba EATING
Plateia 14 Ak
1821 ti Amphora Restaurant......................(see 35)
Da

M
ia o Apostolis I.........................................50 E2
s ka

36 uli
Melidoniou Apostolis II........................................51 F2
lo g

aki
Sarp
Kypro
Kalist

70 Aroma..............................................52 C3
ian

Koum Kapi
ni

48 Avgo Tou Kokkora........................... 53 D3

o

u
u

28 ou Dinos................................................54 E2
Episkop Doloma.............................................55 E2
u a
Nikifor
o Fok
ou Ela....................................................56 C3
27 ifor
Nik Faka..................................................57 E2
Plateia Iordanis Bougatsa.............................58 C5
Markopoulou To Thalassino Ageri (1km);
Akrotiri Peninsula; L'Artigiano Gelateria........................59 C3
Koukouvagia (4km); Mesogeiako..................................... 60 D4
Nyketrida (7km); Michelas........................................(see 75)
Airport (14km)
Monastiri......................................... 61 D2
Oasis................................................62 E5
El Venizelou
3 Pigadi tou Tourkou..........................63 D3
Portes...............................................64 B3
Trikoupi

Tamam............................................65 C3
83
To Karnagio..................................... 66 D2

ENTERTAINMENT
62 Café Kriti..........................................67 E2
Koraï
n

Stadium
ido

Fagotto.............................................68 B2
k
uda

Fortezza...........................................69 D1
Volo

Dim Open-Air Theatre.............................70 F3

ok Synagogi..........................................71 C3
rat
Sfa ias
kio Ta Duo Lux.......................................72 E2
n
SHOPPING
32 Carmela............................................73 B2
Public Exantas Art Space.............................74 B3
li

Tz
nia

Garden Food Market....................................75 D4

an

ak
Bo

ak Karistianis.........................................76 C4
i
15 Mat..................................................77 D3
Miden Agan......................................78 E3
O Armenis....................................... 79 D3
Paraoro.............................................80 B3
ou
Psimithio..........................................81 D4
ar Roka Carpets....................................82 B3
rn
Ko
88
TRANSPORT
22
ANEK...............................................83 E4
Solomou
Bus Station.......................................84 C5
Buses to Souda.................................85 D4
To Verekinthos Craft Village (5km);
To Historical Europrent.........................................86 C4
Souda (9km); Rethymno (57km); M/S Irini Cruises...............................87 C3
Iraklio (142km) Museum &
Archives Olympic Airways..............................88 F6
(150m)
 82 HA N I A • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

Vranas Internet (%28210 58618; Agion Deka 10; per The best-preserved section is the western wall,
HANIA

hr €2; h9.30am-1am) Full set up & air-con. running from the Firkas Fortress to the Siavo
Bastion. It was part of a defensive system begun
Internet Resources in 1538 by engineer Michele Sanmichele, who
www.chania.gr The Municipality of Hania’s website is also designed Iraklio’s defences. Entrance to
worth a look for information on the city and cultural events. the fortress is via the gates next to the Naval
www.chania-guide.gr Good information on the Hania Museum. From the top of the bastion you can
city and prefecture. enjoy some fine views of the old town.
The Venetian lighthouse at the entrance to
Laundry the harbour has been restored, though the
Laundry (%28210 57602; Agion Deka 18; wash & dry new lighting along the sea wall could have
€6) Self service or drop off available. been more subtle. It’s a pleasant 1.5km walk
Old Town Laundromat %28210 59414; Karaoli & around the sea wall to get there, especially in
Dimitriou 38; wash & dry €7; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon- the early evening (you can cheat by taking the
Sat) Also does dry cleaning. barge from the Fortezza café).
On the eastern side of the inner harbour
Left Luggage you will see the prominent Mosque of Kioutsouk
KTEL (%28210 93052; Kydonias 73-77; per day €1.50) Hasan (also known as the Mosque of Janis-
At the bus station. saries), which has been restored and houses
regular exhibitions.
Medical Services Hania’s Archaeological Museum (% 28210
Hania Hospital (%28210 22000; Mournies) Located 90334; Halidon 30; admission €2; incl Byzantine Collection
south of town. €3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; closes 7.30pm in summer but
check) is housed in the superb 16th-century
Money Venetian Church of San Francisco that be-
Most banks are in the new city, but there are came a mosque under the Turks, a movie
a few ATMs in the Old Town on Halidon, theatre in 1913 and a munitions depot for
including Alpha Bank (cnr Halidon & Skalidi) and Citi- the Germans during WWII. The museum
bank. There are numerous places to change houses a well-displayed collection of finds
money outside banking hours. National Bank from western Crete dating from the Neolithic
of Greece (cnr Tzanakaki & Giannari) has a 24-hour to the Roman eras. Artefacts from 3400 BC to
exchange machine. 1200 BC, to the left as you enter the museum,
include tablets with Linear A script (see p47).
Post There is some exquisite pottery from the Geo-
Post Office (%28210 28445; Peridou 10; h7.30am- metric era (1200–800 BC) and a case of bull
8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat) figurines. Among the Hellenistic and Roman
exhibits, the statue of Diana is particularly
Tourist Information impressive. There is a marble fountain in the
Municipal Tourist Information Office (%28210 pretty courtyard decorated with lions’ heads
36155; [email protected]; Kydonias 29; h8am-2.30pm) from the Venetian period, while the Turkish
Located at the Town Hall, it provides helpful practical infor- fountain is a relic from the building’s days
mation and maps. The info booth behind the mosque in Old as a mosque.
Harbour also tends to be manned between noon and 2pm. The Naval Museum (%28210 91875; Akti Koundouri-
oti; admission €3; h9am-4pm May-Sep) has an interest-
Travel Agencies ing collection of model ships dating from the
Diktynna Travel (%28210 41458; www.diktynna Bronze Age, and naval instruments, paintings,
-travel.gr; Arhontaki 6) Organises a range of cultural and photographs and memorabilia from the Battle
ecotourism activities, including cooking classes. of Crete. It is housed in the Firkas Fortress,
Tellus Travel (%28210 91500; Halidon 108; www.tellus once the old Turkish prison. An authentic rep-
travel.gr; h8am-11pm) Rents cars, changes money, ar- lica of a Minoan ship, which sailed from Crete
ranges air and boat tickets, accommodation and excursions. to Athens as part of the Athens 2004 Olympics
ceremonies, will be the star attraction of the
SIGHTS museum’s new Ancient and Traditional Maritime
The massive fortifications built by the Vene- Museum annexe in the Venetian ship sheds
tians to protect their city remain impressive. being created at the far end of the harbour.
lonelyplanet.com HA N I A • • A c t i v i t i e s 83

The Byzantine and Post Byzantine Collection of Hania’s other remaining minaret is attached

HANIA
Hania (%28210 96046; Theotokopoulou; admission €2, to the charmingly schizophrenic Agios Nikolaos
incl Archaeological Museum €3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) formerly part of a Dominican priory, which has
is in the impressively restored Church of San a belltower on the other side. Nearby you can
Salvatore. It has a small but fascinating col- see the restored Venetian church of San Rocco.
lection of artefacts, icons, jewellery and coins, You can see excavation works at the site of
including a fine segment of a mosaic floor for Ancient Kydonia, to the east of the old harbour at
an early Christian basilica and a prized icon the junction of Kanevaro and Kandaloneou.
of St George slaying the dragon. The building Hania’s magnificent covered Agora (Mu-
has a mixed bag of interesting architectural nicipal Market; see p85) has some excellent
features from its various occupiers. eateries and is a worth a visit even if you don’t
Hania’s interesting Cretan House Folklore want to shop. Sadly, the central bastion of the
Museum (%28210 90816; Halidon 46; admission €2; city wall was demolished to make way for this
h9.30am-3pm & 6-9pm) contains a selection of fine 1911 cruciform creation, modelled after
crafts and implements including weavings the market in Marseilles.
with traditional designs.
The Historical Museum and Archives (%28210 ACTIVITIES
52606; Sfakianaki 20; admission free; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri), Hiking, Climbing & Biking
southeast of the old quarter, traces Crete’s Trekking Plan (%28210 60861; www.cycling.gr; Agia Marina)
war-torn history with a series of exhibits In Agia Marina, 8km southwest of the old town,
focusing on the struggle against the Turks. Trekking Plan offers hikes to the Agia Irini and
There are also exhibits relating to the German Imbros gorges, and climbs of Mt Gingilos, as
occupation and a folklore collection. well as canyoning, rappelling, rock-climbing
The stunningly restored Great Arsenal and kayaking and mountain-bike tours.
(%28210 40101; www.kam-arsenali.gr; Plateia Katehaki) Alpine Travel (%28210 50939; 6932 252 890; www
is now home to the Centre for Mediterranean .alpine.gr; Boniali 11-19) Organises a range of eco-
Architecture, which hosts regular events and tourism, mountaineering and hiking pro-
exhibitions. grammes.
The restored Etz Hayyim Synagogue (Parodos EOS (%28210 44647; www.eoshanion.gr; Tzanakaki 90;
Kondylaki; %28210 86286; www.etz-hayyim-hania.org; h8.30am-10pm) The Hania branch of the Greek
h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 5-8pm Sun, 10am-3pm & 5-8pm Mon) Mountaineering Association has informa-
has a moving memorial to the Jews of Hania tion about serious climbing in the Lefka Ori,
who were annihilated by the Nazis. mountain refuges and the E4 trail, and runs
Hania’s three-level Municipal Art Gallery regular weekend excursions.
(%28210 92294; www.pinakothiki-chania.gr; Halidon 98; Hellas Bike Tours (%28210 60858; www.hellasbike
admission €2, free Wed; h10am-2pm & 7-10pm Mon- .net; Agia Marina) In Agia Marina, this group rents
Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) hosts exhibitions of modern out bikes and leads half and full-day bike tours
Greek art. around the region.
You can escape the crowds of the Vene- Nature Maniacs (%28250 91017; www.naturmaniacs
tian quarter by taking a stroll around the .com; Platanias) Specialises in nature, adventure
Turkish Splantzia quarter – a delightful tangle and cultural travel programmes as well as a sea
of narrow streets and squares that is being kayaking on the south coast around Loutro.
rejuvenated and cut off to traffic. It is at-
tracting new boutique hotels, galleries and Diving
artistic or alternative pursuits. Along Daliani, Blue Adventures Diving (%28210 40608; www.bluead
you will see one of Hania’s two remaining venturesdiving.gr; Arholeon 11) This outfit offers a
minarets and pass the restored 16th-century PADI certification course (€370) and daily
Monastiri Tou Karolou (%28210 50172; Daliani 22; diving trips around Hania (two dives €75),
h11am-late; closed Sun). Apart from the pleasant including beginner dives. There are also snor-
courtyard café, which hosts occasional live kelling trips and cruise options if you just
music and cultural events, the old monastery want to go along for the ride.
is now the home, atelier and hairdressing
salon of Hania’s famous formerly Paris-based Swimming
celebrity hairdresser-cum-sculptor Karolos The town beach at Nea Hora is crowded but
Kambelopoulos. generally clean if you need to cool off and get
 84 HA N I A • • H a n i a f o r C h i l d re n Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

some rays. For better swimming, keep heading pheric pensions in restored Venetian build-
HANIA

west and you’ll come to the beaches (in order) ings. Most hotels are open year-round. Keep
of Agioi Apostoli, Hrysi Akti and Kalamaki (about in mind many of the older and boutique hotels
3.5km). There are regular local buses heading have no lift. The western end of the harbour
there and all the way to Platanias and beyond. and along Zambeliou is a good place to look,
but it can be noisy at night, especially along
HANIA FOR CHILDREN the harbour – the price you pay for a view.
If your five-year-old has lost interest in Venetian There are cheaper rooms around the Splantzia
architecture, head to the public garden between quarter, where some reasonably priced bou-
Tzanakaki and Dimokratias, where there’s tique hotels have recently opened. Hotel com-
a playground, a small zoo with two resident plexes with pools can be found at Nea Hora
kri-kri (Cretan goat) and a shady café. Eight and along the beach running west to Platanias
kilometres south of town the giant water park and beyond.
Limnoupolis (%28210 33246; Varypetro; day pass adult/
child 6-12 €17/12, afternoon pass €12/9; h10am-7pm) has Budget
enough slides and rides to keep kids amused Hania Camping (%28210 31138; www.camping-chania
and cafés and pool bars for adults. Buses leave .gr; Agii Apostoli; caravan/tent €7/4; s) The near-
regularly from the KTEL bus station (€1.60). est camp site is 3km west of town on the
beach. The site is shaded and has a restau-
TOURS rant, bar and mini-market and pool. You
Boat excursions from the harbour take you can also rent a tent (€10). Buses heading
to the nearby islands of Agii Theodoroi and west (every 15 minutes) from the southeast
Lazaretto and the Gulf of Hania. The M/S Irini corner of Plateia 1866 can let you off at the
(%28210 52001; cruises €15; sunset cruises €8, children under 7 camp site.
free) runs daily cruises on a lovely 1930s cruiser, Pension Lena (%28210 86860; lenachania@hotmail
including free snorkelling gear, and sunset .com; Ritsou 5; s/d €35/55; a) Lena’s is a friendly,
cruises with complimentary fruit and raki. cosy pension in an old Turkish building
The F/B Alexandros (%28210 71514) runs daily where you can help yourself to a room if
cruises around Souda Gulf that stop at caves the owner is not there. It has an old-world
and beaches. feel and a scattering of antiques, though the
Several operators offer really short half- front rooms are the most appealing. Origi-
hour or one-hour cruises or rides on murky nally from Hamburg, Lena makes guests feel
glass bottomed boats, but they are hardly welcome.
worth it. Ifigenia Rooms & Studios (%28210 94357; www
Sheffield-born photographer Steve Out- .ifigeniastudios.gr; Gamba 23 & Parodos Agelou; studio €35-
ram (%28210 32201; www.steveoutram.com) runs 140; a) This network of refurbished houses
photography tours twice a year for both around the Venetian port offers anything from
amateur shutterbugs and more seasoned simple rooms to fancy suites with kitchen-
photographers. ettes, Jacuzzis and views. Some bathrooms
are very basic, the faux old-world décor a lit-
FESTIVALS & EVENTS tle contrived and the renovations not always
In summer, the municipality hosts cultural sympathetic.
events around the city, including the public oPension Theresa (%/fax 28210 92798;
gardens and the open-air theatre (www.chania.gr) Angelou 2; r €40-50; a) This creaky old house
on the outskirts of the city walls (on Kyprou), with a steep spiral staircase and antique fur-
which has regular music and theatrical per- niture is the most atmospheric pension in
formances. Hania. It attracts many artists and writers,
Hania commemorates the Battle of Crete and is often full. Some rooms have a view,
anniversary with athletics competitions, folk but there’s always the stunning vista from
dancing and ceremonial events during the the rooftop terrace where you can use the
last week of May. communal kitchen. The rooms are spotless
and all have TV, air-con and lofts with an
SLEEPING extra bed for small families, though some
Hania’s Venetian quarter is brimming with are on the tight side and the ambience comes
chic boutique hotels and family-run atmos- at a premium.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com HA N I A • • E a t i n g 85

Monastiri Pension (%/fax 28210 41032; Agiou Markou the new breed of boutique hotels in the quiet

HANIA
18 & Kanevarou; d & tr €40-55; a) The stone arched Splantzia quarter. The historic building has
entry and antique family furniture in the com- a contemporary design and fit-out and the
munal area give this older-style budget place a nine rooms with all the mod-cons and a small
certain charm. Bathrooms are basic but rooms terrace on the roof. The price includes a buf-
have a fridge and some have a TV. The front fet breakfast.
rooms have balconies with lovely views. Splanzia Hotel (%28210 45313; www.splantzia
.com; Daskalogianni 20; d €100 incl buffet breakfast a)
Midrange This smart new designer hotel in an Otto-
Vranas Studios (%28210 58618; www.vranas.gr; Agion man building has eight stylish rooms, some
Deka 10; studio €40-70; a) This place is on a lively decorated with four-poster timber beds and
pedestrian street and has spacious, immacu- drapery. The back rooms overlook a lovely
lately maintained studios with kitchenettes. courtyard.
All rooms have polished wooden floors, bal-
conies, TVs and telephones. There’s a handy Top End
internet café attached. oAmphora Hotel (%28210 93224; www.am
oMadonna Studios & Apartments (%28210 phora.gr; Parodos Theotokopoulou 20; d with view €120, ste
94747; [email protected]; Gamba 33; studio €70- €145; a) This historically evocative hotel is in
110; a) This charming small hotel has five an immaculately restored and kept Venetian
attractive and well-appointed studios around mansion with rooms around a courtyard and
a lovely flower-filled courtyard. They are in a second connected wing. The rooms are
furnished in traditional style and the front elegantly decorated and the top rooms have
top room has a superb balcony, while the air-con and views of the harbour. The front
courtyard room has the original stone wash rooms can be noisy in the summer and there
trough. are cheaper rooms without a view. Breakfast
Nostos Hotel (%28210 94743; www.nostos-hotel.com; is €10.
Zambeliou 42-46; s/d/tr incl breakfast €60/80/120; a) Mix- oCasa Leone (%28210 76762; www.casa
ing Venetian style and modern fixtures, this -leone.com; Parodos Theotokopoulou 18; s & d incl breakfast
600-year-old building has been remodelled €120-150; a) This Venetian residence has been
into classy split-level accommodation, with converted into a classy and romantic boutique
kitchen, fridge, phone and TV. It also has a hotel. The rooms are spacious and well ap-
roof garden. Try to get a balcony room with pointed, with balconies overlooking the har-
harbour views. bour. There are honeymoon suites, the usual
Porto de Colombo (%28210 70945; colompo@otenet mod cons and extras such as hairdryers.
.gr; Theofanous & Moshon; d/ste incl breakfast €84/103; a) Casa Delfino (%28210 93098; www.casadelfino.com;
Once the French embassy and office of Elefth- Theofanous 7; ste & apt incl buffet breakfast €186-316; a)
erios Venizelos, this Venetian townhouse is This elegant 17th-century mansion is the most
now a charming boutique hotel with 10 lovely, luxurious hotel in the Old Town. There are 22
well-appointed rooms; the top suites have fine individually decorated and well-appointed
harbour views. suites, including a palatial, split-level apart-
Bellmondo (%28210 36216; www.belmondohotel ment with a Jacuzzi. The apartment sleeps
.com; Zambeliou 10; d/ste incl breakfast €90/110; a) This up to four people. Breakfast is in the splendid
classy hotel has harbour views and a formal pebble-mosaic courtyard.
feel, with iron beds and traditional furnish-
ings. It has Turkish and Venetian features, EATING
including part of an old hammam (Turkish Hania has some of the finest restaurants in
bath) in one room. Children up to 12 stay free. Crete, some housed in roofless Venetian ruins.
The nicer rooms have balconies (€99). Unfortunately, most of the prime-position
Anemi Suites (%28210 53001; www.anemisuites.gr; waterfront tavernas are generally mediocre,
Sarpaki 41; s/d/tr €70/82/105; a) A restored Vene- often overpriced and fronted by annoying
tian-Turkish building in the quiet Splantzia touts, so head for the back streets.
quarter has been turned into four comfort-
able suites. Budget
Ionas Hotel (%28210 55090; www.ionashotel.gr; Sar- Hania’s famous covered Agora (Municipal Market;
paki & Sorvolou; d €50-80, ste €120; a) This is one of hMon, Wed & Sat 8.30am-2pm, Tue, Thu & Fri 8.30am-1.30pm
 86 HA N I A • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com

& 6-9pm) is a good-value place for self-caterers kebab veal with spices and yogurt or the Bey-
HANIA

to stock up on supplies, as well as stop for endi chicken with creamy aubergine purée.
lunch. oThalassino Ageri (%28210 51136; Vivilaki
Michelas (%28210 90026; mains €5-7; h10am-4pm 35; top fish €55 per kg; hdinner) It can be tricky to
Mon-Sat) Near the meat section of the food mar- find, but this solitary fish taverna in a tiny
ket, this place has been serving great fresh, port among the ruins of Hania’s old tanner-
and cheap traditional cuisine for 75 years. ies is one of the most delightful eateries in
Iordanis Bougatsa (%28210 90026l Kydonias 96; bou- Crete. Apart from the superb setting they
gatsa €2.50) Continuing the business started by have fresh fish and excellent mezedes such
his great-grandfather in 1924, Iordanis churns as tender octopus in wine vinegar and melt-
out endless trays of delicious creamy bougatsa in-your-mouth calamari as well as a delicious
(filo pastry filled with myzithra cheese sprin- fisherman’s salad. Take a taxi or follow Ven-
kled with a little icing sugar). It’s opposite izelou around the coast turning left at Noel St
the bus station. as soon as you veer away from the coast.
Doloma (%28210 51196; Kalergon 8; mayirefta Mesogeiako (%28210 59772; Daliani 36; mezedes
€4.50-6; hMon-Sat) This unpretentious restaurant €3.20-5.60) This promising newcomer near the
tucked behind the harbour is half-hidden amid minaret in the revitalised Spantzia quarter
the vines and foliage surrounding the outdoor is a trendy mezedopoleio serving an array of
terrace. The traditional cooking is faultless. classic and more creative dishes. Try the pork
Pick from the various trays of mayirefta (cas- meatballs and their excellent raki.
seroles and bakes) cooked daily. Monastiri (%28210 55527; Akti Tombazi; mains €7.20-
L’Artigiano Gelateria (%28210 53612; Athinagora 13.90) One of the few waterfront restaurants
Plateia) There is almost always a queue for this that gets the general thumbs up from discern-
delightful home-made Italian gelati. ing local and international diners, Monastiri,
There are plenty of snack food and souv- on the eastern side of the harbour, dishes up
laki places on Halidon, but locals swear by well-executed Cretan fare.
the undeniably tasty souvlaki at the tiny old- Faka (%28210 42341; Plateia Katehaki; mains €6.20-
style Oasis (Vouloudakidon 2; hMon-Sat; shopping hr 12.90) This is another of those quiet, unas-
only; souvlaki €2). suming places that doesn’t dish up bland
For breakfast, sandwiches and lighter meals fare. The cuisine is solid and genuine. Good
you can try the popular Aroma (%28210 41812; local choices include or artichokes and broad
Akti Tombazi 4) next to the mosque or Avgo Tou beans. There’s a children’s menu and small
Kokkora (%28210 55776; Ag 10 & Sarpaki) behind playpen.
the cathedral. Pigadi tou Tourkou (%28210 54547; Sarpaki 1-3;
mains €10-14.50; hdinner, closed Mon-Tue) Features
Midrange from this former hammam, including the well
oPortes (%28210 76261; Portou 48; mains €6- it’s named after (Well of the Turk), are incor-
8.50) Affable Susanna from Limerick cooks up porated into the cosy design of this popular
Cretan treats with a difference at this superb restaurant, which has dishes inspired by Crete,
restaurant in a quiet street in the Old Town. Morocco and the Middle East. The service
Try her divine marinated gavros (little fish), can, however, be indifferent and prices have
stuffed fish baked in paper, tasty meatballs crept up.
with leek and tomato, or pretty much any- Ela (%28210 74128; Kondylaki 47; mains €6.50-18;
thing from the specials board. hnoon-1am) This 14th-century building was
To Karnagio (%28210 53366; Plateia Katehaki 8; Cre- a soap factory, then a school, distillery and
tan specials €5-10.50) This is a popular place with cheese-processing plant. Now Ela serves up
outdoor tables near the Great Arsenal. There a decent array of Cretan specialities, such as
is a good range of seafood (try the grilled goat with artichokes, while musicians create a
cuttlefish) and classic Cretan dishes, plus a lively ambience. The tacky board outside tells
fine wine list. you it’s in every guidebook but the accolades
Tamam (%28210 96080; Zambeliou 49; mains €5.50- are not undeserved.
8.50) Housed in an old hammam, Tamam Also recommended are the excellent Am-
presents a superb selection of vegetarian spe- phora Restaurant, on the port below the hotel
cialities – try the spicy avocado dip on potato and Dinos (%28210 41865; Akti Enosis 3), in the cluster
(€6) – and inspired dishes such as the Tas of fish tavernas at the far end of the harbour.
lonelyplanet.com HA N I A • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 87

Top End town for a sunset drink. A free barge takes

HANIA
Akrogiali (%28210 71110; Akti Papanikoli 20, Nea Hora; you across the water, from the bottom of
hdinner only) One of the best seafood restaur- Sarpidona to the sea wall wrapping around
ants in Hania, Akrogiali is on the beach side the harbour.
of the new town. The fish is fresh and the ac- Further along the harbour, the arty café-bar
companiments are superb. The airy restaurant Ta Duo Lux (%28210 52519; Sarpidona 8; h10am-late)
opens onto the seafront giving you a great remains a perennial favourite hangout for a
view of the sunset. younger alternative crowds and is popular day
Apostolis I & II (%28210 43470; Akti Enoseo; fish per kg and night. Along this strip you will also find
up to €55) In the quieter eastern harbour, this is a Bolero and Hippopotamos.
well-respected place for fresh fish and Cretan Serious party animals head to the flashy
dishes in two separate buildings. Apostolis clubs in Platanias and Agia Marina, 11km
II is the more popular as the owner reigns west of Hania.
there, but the other store has the same menu Koukouvagia (%28210 27449; Venizelos Graves) If
at marginally cheaper prices. A seafood plat- you have wheels then take a 10-minute drive
ter for two, including salad, is €30. Service is up the hill to where the great statesman Elefth-
friendly and efficient, and there’s a good wine erios Venizelos is buried. The owl-themed
list and harbour setting. café and bar (with an extraordinary owl décor
Nykterida (%28210 64215; Korakies, on airport road) collection) enjoys panoramic views of Hania.
This highly regarded establishment just out- It’s a cool place to hang on summer’s nights.
side town has been around since 1933 and The pitta creations are excellent, as are the
was converted to the German club during large selection of cakes and desserts.
WWII. It has been graced over the years by the
likes of Churchill, Melina Mercouri, Andreas SHOPPING
Papandreou and Anthony Quinn (who the Hania offers the best combination of souve-
owner’s father taught how to dance for his nir hunting and shopping for crafts on the
role in Zorba the Greek). island. The best shops are scattered through
the back streets of the old town and around
ENTERTAINMENT Theotokopoulou. Skrydlof is ‘leather lane,’
The harbour’s lively and prominent water- known as the ‘Stivaniadika’ because this was
front bars and clubs around the mosque are where you would pick up a pair of Cretan
mostly patronised by tourists, while the row boots. You can still find them, but most of
of clubs along Sourmeli are frequented by the goods on sale are handmade sandals,
American soldiers from the nearby bases. belts and bags. On Sifaka you will find the
There are some lively bars in the streets of ‘Machairadika’, stores selling traditional
the Old Town. Cretan knives.
Synagogi (%28210 96797; Skoufou 15) Housed There’s an outdoor laïki (street market)
in a roofless Venetian building that was once Saturday mornings from 7am to 2pm on Mi-
a synagogue, this popular lounge bar is the noos and another market on the waterfront
favourite haunt of young locals. west of the Firkas fortress on Thursdays.
Fagotto (%28210 71877; Angelou 16; h7pm-2am Most stores in the old town tend to stay
Jul-May) A Hania institution housed in a re- open until at least 11pm, while the new town
stored Venetian building, Fagotto offers the shopping district keeps regular shop hours
smooth sounds of jazz and light rock and (see p210).
blues. Jazz paraphernalia includes a saxo- Exantas Art Space (%28210 95920; Zambeliou
phone beer tap. & Moschon; h10am-2pm & 6pm-11pm) This classy
Café Kriti (%28210 58661; Kalergon 22; h8pm-late) store has great postcards with old photos,
Also known as Lyrakia, this rough-and-ready lithographs and engravings, handmade gifts,
joint, with a decorative scheme that relies on Cretan music as well as a good range of travel,
saws, pots, ancient sewing machines and coffee table and art books.
animal heads, is the place to hear live Cretan O Armenis (%28210 54434; Sifaka 29) Owner Ap-
music. ostolos Pahtikos has been making traditional
Fortezza (%28210 46546) This café, bar and Cretan knives since he was 13 and has passed
restaurant, installed in the old Venetian ram- on the trade to his son. You can watch them
parts across the harbour, is the best place in work as they match the blades to carefully
 88 HA N I A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com

carved handles at the workshop (Sifaka 14). Aegean Airlines (%28210 63366; www.aegeanair
HANIA

A kitchen knife costs €15. .com)Four daily flights to Athens (€76-123) and one to
Carmela (%28210 90487; Angelou 7) This exquisite Thessaloniki (€125-135).
store has a tempting array of original jewellery Olympic Airlines (%28210 58005; www.olympic
designs with stones collected on their travels, airlines.com; Tzanakaki 88) Five daily flights to/from
as well as Carmela’s unique ceramics using Athens (€76-106). Also four flights per week to/from Thes-
ancient techniques. They also have jewellery saloniki (€126-136).
and ceramics by leading Greek artists. Sky Express (%2810 223 500; www.skyexpress.gr)
Mat (%28210 42217; Potie 51) A hobby that turned Daily flights from Hania to Rhodes on 18-seater planes
into an obsession for the late national chess (from €104, one hour).
champion Athanasios Diamantopoulos has put
this tiny shop on the world map for chess en- Boat
thusiasts. His wife continues to sell a large range Hania’s main port is at Souda, about 7km
of his original chess piece designs (from €60 to southeast of town. There are frequent buses to
€1000), including the popular ‘Athenians’. Hania (€1.15), as well as taxis (€7). The Port Police
Miden Agan (%28210 27068; www.midenaganshop (%28210 89240) can provide ferry information.
.gr; Daskalogianni 70; h10am-3.30 Mon & Wed, 10am-2.15 ANEK (%28210 27500; www.anek.gr; Plateia Sofokli
& 6.15-10pm Tue & Thu-Sat) Foodies and wine lov- Venizelou) Has a daily boat at 9pm from Piraeus to Hania
ers will be delighted with the range at this (€30, nine hours) and at 8pm from Hania to Piraeus. In July
excellent shop, which stocks over 800 Greek and August there is also a morning ferry from Piraeus (€30).
wines, as well as its own wine and liquors. Hellenic Seaways (%28210 75444; www.hellenic-
There’s a variety of beautifully packaged local seaways.gr; Plateia 1866 14) Has a high-speed catamaran
traditional gourmet deli foods, including oil service from Piraeus that take only 4½ hours (€53). It’s a
and honey and their own line of spoon sweets better option for getting to Hania as it arrives at 8.30pm,
(try the white pumpkin). but the flight from Hania gets you to Athens rather
Paraoro (%28210 88990; Theotokopoulou 16) Stama- inconveniently at 2am.
tis Fasoularis’ distinctive series of metal boats
are functional as well as decorative, such as Bus
his nifty steamship oil burner. The workshop In summer, buses depart from Hania’s bus
also has unique ceramics by artist Yiorgos station (%28210 93052) during the week for the
Vavatsis, including his trademark skewed following destinations:
drink ware. Their bigger gallery pieces are Destination Duration Fare (€) Frequency
exhibited upstairs. Elafonisi 2½hr 9.60 1 daily
Roka Carpets (%28210 74736; Zambeliou 61) This Falasarna 1½hr 6.50 3 daily
is one of the few places in Crete where you Hora Sfakion 1hr 40min 6.50 3 daily
can buy genuine, hand-woven goods. You Iraklio 2¾hr 10.70 half-hourly
can watch the charming Mihalis Manou- Kissamos-Kastelli 1hr 4 13 daily
sakis and his wife weave his wondrous rugs Kolymbari 45min 2.80 half-hourly
on a 400-year-old loom, using methods that Lakki 1¾hr 2.60 2 daily
have remained essentially unchanged since Moni Agias Triadas 30min 2 2 daily
Minoan times. Omalos (for 1hr 5.90 3 daily
Psimithio (%28210 54606; Theotokopoulou 50) This Samaria Gorge)
small jewellery workshop just behind the Paleohora 1hr 50min 6.50 4 daily
cathedral has some interesting original designs Rethymno 1hr 6 half-hourly
in silver. Sougia 1hr 50min 6.10 2 daily
Karistianis (%28210 93573; Skalidi 9-11) For Stavros 30min 1.80 3 daily
outdoor clothing and hiking shoes to tackle
gorges you could try this place or their hard Check with the bus station for off-peak
core army supply store across the road for ser vices.
camping and climbing gear.
GETTING AROUND
GETTING THERE & AWAY To/From the Airport
Air There are three buses per day to the airport
Hania’s airport (CHQ; %28210 83800) is 14km east (€2, 20 mins) from the bus station. A taxi to
of town on the Akrotiri Peninsula. the airport will cost about €18.
lonelyplanet.com A K R OT I R I P E N I N S U L A & S O U D A B AY • • A k r o t i r i Pe n i n s u l a 89

Bus houses and a few restaurants and hotels. The

HANIA
Local blue buses (% 28210 27044) meet the main cove is a narrow strip of sandy beach
ferries at the port of Souda, just near the dominated by a mammoth rock shelf that
dock. In Hania, the bus to Souda (€1.15) served as the dramatic backdrop for the final
leaves from outside the food market. Buses dancing scene in the classic movie Zorba the
for the western beaches leave from the main Greek. It can get crowded, but the sheltered
bus station on Plateia 1866 and go as far as cove is your best bet on a windy day. The
Panormo (€2). area around Stavros is ripe with new villa
development and is also home to the fancy
Car, Motorcycle & Bicycle Perle Resort & Health Spa (%28210 39400; www
Most motorcycle-hire outlets are on Halidon, .perlespa.com).
but the companies at Agia Marina are com- The impressive 17th-century Moni Agias
petitive and can bring cars to Hania. Most Triadas (%28210 63310; admission €2; h8am-7pm) is
of the old town is pedestrian only. The best a visitor-friendly monastery. It was founded
place to park is in the free parking area near by the Venetian monks Jeremiah and Lau-
the Firkas fortress (turn right off Skalidi at rentio Giancarolo, who were converts to the
the sign to the big supermarket car park on Orthodox faith. There was a religious school
Pireos and follow the road down to the wa- here in the 19th century and it is still an ac-
terfront). Some of the new town streets have tive monastery with an excellent library. The
paid street parking so check for signs. church is worth visiting for its altarpiece as
Europrent (%28210 27810; Halidon 87) well as its Venetian-influenced domed façade.
Tellus Travel (%28210 91500; www.tellustravel.gr; There is a small museum and a store selling
Halidon 108) the monastery’s fine wine, oil and raki.
The 16th-century Moni Gouvernetou (Our Lady
of the Angels; %28210 63319; h9am-noon & 5-7pm Mon,
AKROTIRI PENINSULA & Tue & Thu, Sat & Sun 5am-11am & 5-8pm), 4km north
of Moni Agias Triadas, may date as far back
SOUDA BAY as the 11th century from a time when an in-
land sanctuary was an attractive refuge from
coastal pirates. The building itself is disap-
AKROTIRI PENINSULA pointingly plain, but the church inside has
ΧΕΡΣΟΝΗΣΟΣ ΑΚΡΩΤΗΡΙ an ornate sculptured Venetian façade. The
The Akrotiri (ak-roh-tee-ree) Peninsula, to the monastery was attacked and burnt down dur-
northeast of Hania, is a barren, hilly stretch of ing the war of independence but the monks
rock covered with scrub. It has a few coastal were warned and managed to save the treas-
resorts, Hania’s airport, a massive NATO ures (though not themselves) and had them
naval base on Souda Bay and a two interest- shipped off to Mount Athos. The monastery
ing monasteries. There are few buses and the is now run by four monks from the holy
poorly signposted roads can make it a diffi- mountain who keep a strict regime and have
cult region to explore, but if you have a car it banned tour buses. Visitors must park in the
makes an interesting day trip where you can car park before the monastery and be dressed
combine a swim and lunch with a visit to the respectfully while on the grounds (they do not
monasteries. If you want to stay at the beach provide long pants or skirts) or will be asked
instead of Hania town, Kalathas and Stavros to leave. Swimming is not permitted in the
are a much quieter alternative to the resort cove below.
strip west of town. The beach settlement of From Moni Gouvernetou, it’s a 20-minute
Kalathas, 10km north of Hania, has two sandy walk (about 30 minutes on the uphill walk
beaches lined by pine trees. It is the preferred back) to the path leading down to the coast to
weekend haunt of Haniots, many of whom the ruins of Moni Ioannou Erimiti (also known
own summer and weekend houses nearby. as Moni Katholikou). In disuse for many
Three kilometres north of Kalathas is the centuries, the monastery is dedicated to St
small beach settlement of Tersanas, signposted John the Hermit who lived in the cave behind
off the main Kalathas-Stavros road. the ruins, at the bottom of a rock staircase.
The village of Stavros, 6km north of Ka- Near the entrance to the cave, there’s a small
lathas, is little more than a scattering of pond of water believed to be holy. When
 90 A K R OT I R I P E N I N S U L A & S O U D A B AY • • S o u d a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

St John died in the cave, his 98 disciples joyed with horta (wild greens) and their
HANIA

are said to have died with him. His skull is hand-cut potatoes.
kept in the monastery and brought out for
a special service the first Sunday of every Getting There & Away
month. There are six buses daily to Stavros beach
On the eastern side of the peninsula is the (€1.80) that stop at Kalathas.
pleasant beach of Marathi, a lovely spot past There are two buses Monday to Friday, at
the military base with two sandy coves and 6.30am and 2.15pm, to Moni Agias Triadas
turquoise waters on either side of a small (€2, 40 minutes).
pier. The ruins of Ancient Minoa are next to If you’re coming by car from Hania fol-
the car park. Marathi gets crowded with local low signs to the airport and branch off at the
families at weekends and has a couple of tav- turnoffs from there.
ernas. Further south along this coastline is
another pleasant swimming and snorkelling SOUDA ΣΟΎΔΑ
spot at Loutraki. pop 5330
The harbour of Souda is one of Crete’s larg-
Sleeping & Eating est, and is the port of entry if you come to
Esplanade Apartments (Kalathas; %28210 69810; www Hania by ferry. The Venetians built a castle
.esplandehotel.gr; studio & apt €40-85; ais) This at the entrance of Souda Bay, which they held
two-storey hotel has roomy, light and breezy until 1715, even though the Turks had already
studios with phone, TV and well-stocked seized the rest of the island. Souda is now the
kitchenette. site of the Greek navy’s main refitting sta-
Georgi’s Blue Apartments (Kalathas; %28210 64080; tion, which sees a sizeable military presence
www.blueapts.gr; studio & apt €85-130; as) Georgi’s in the area.
is a tasteful, rather upmarket complex of well The town of Souda, about 2km from
furnished studios and apartments with phone, the port, sprang up 130 years ago under
satellite TV, fridge and kitchenette. There’s a Turkish rule, but little remains from that
pleasant communal lounge area near the pool period. Today most of the activity and serv-
and a private little cove where you can swim ices – including travel agencies, banks and
off the rocks. shops – are all clustered in the port close to
Paradisio Apartments (Stavros; %28210 39737; www the main plateia (square) near the ferry quay.
.paradisiohotel.com; apt €85; as) This is friendly Accommodation and dining opportunities
family-run affair with apartments that can are limited and you are much better off in
sleep up to five people. There’s a swimming Hania.
pool with a separate area for kids and the Gelasakis Travel (%28210 89065; h8am-10.30pm),
family provide guests with their own organic on the main plateia; changes money, handles
fruit, olive oil and honey. air and boat tickets, and rents out cars.
Blue Beach (%28210 39404; www.bluebeach-villas
.com; d €50; as) Right on the pretty spot on Sleeping & Eating
the beach, Blue Beach is a low-key resort hotel Hotel Parthenon (%28210 89245; El Venizelou 29; d
that welcomes independent travellers. The €35; a) Right across from the main plateia
rooms are comfortable and self-contained above a taverna, the rooms at this small hotel
with fridge, kitchenette, TV and there is a have a fridge and TV, if you need to spend a
pool. Air-con is an extra €7. night in the port.
Sun Set Beach Bar (%28210 39780) Right on Vlachakis Brothers (%28210 89219; 16 Ellis St) Over
the western beach at Stavros, this attractive in Souda town, this simple fish taverna is
bar evokes a tropical paradise, tucked under widely known for its excellent seafood and its
a huge tree with a shady timber deck and house specialty, the prawn omelette, washes
thatched umbrellas. It’s a great spot for a down nicely with barrel wine.
drink and they also serve a range of local an Paloma (%28210 89081; fish dishes €6-10) Further
international-style snacks. along from Souda on the coastal road leading
Patrelantonis (% 28210 63337; Marathi; fish per to the airport, this fish taverna with classic
kg €34-50) This well-regarded fish taverna by blue chairs and chequered tablecloths is right
the beach under the shady tamarisk trees by the sea overlooking the port. It’s a pleasant
puts on a decent seafood spread, best en- walk past the cemetery.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com G U L F O F HA N I A • • S l e e p i n g 91

Getting There & Away there are great views from the top. The beach,

HANIA
Souda is about 9km east of Hania. There are as at Agia Marina, is crowded and mediocre.
frequent buses to Hania (€1.15) that meet the Marginally better is Gerani at the far end of
ferries. Taxis to Hania cost about €7. the strip, which is generally far less crowded.
Further along, Maleme is a quiet, relatively
undeveloped coastal resort. There are a few
GULF OF HANIA hotels and apartments near the fine pebble
beach. Up on the hill, there is a moving, well-
The coastline west of Hania between the tended German military cemetery overlooking
Akrotiri and Rodopou Peninsulas, which the airfield where more than 3000 German
forms the Gulf of Hania, is an almost end- paratroopers killed in the Battle of Crete
less 13km strip of hotels, domatia, souvenir are buried.
shops, travel agencies, mini-markets and res-
taurants. The former villages along this coast SLEEPING
have become little more than entertainment Many hotels lining the beach road have been
strip malls. It’s not the place to come if you’re given over to tour operators or function as
looking for a quiet, relaxing holiday, but the private clubs.
nightlife is good and it has all the services to Tassos Cottages (%28210 61352; tassosgerani@hotmail
cater to your needs. .com; Gerani; apt €40-50) These well-equipped one
The first tourist town is Agia Marina, 9km and two-bedroom apartments surrounded
from Hania. While it caters primarily to by pleasant gardens are halfway between the
package tourists, you will find a clutch of beach and the main drag. They have a TV
undistinguished domatia along the main and fans. Call in at Tasso’s taverna on the
road. The beach tends to be packed with main street.
lines of identical lounges and umbrellas, Ilianthos Village Apartments (%28210 60667;
and the water is rather murky and uninspir- www.ilianthosvillage.gr; Agia Marina; d incl breakfast from
ing. Agia Marina is the first port of call for €172; as) This large resort on a wide stretch
Hania nightclubbers. of beach is one of the more upmarket options
Next along is Platanias, 12km from Hania in Agia Marina. It has children’s facilities, and
and almost indistinguishable from Agia Ma- is accessible to people in wheelchairs and all
rina. This community of midrange accommo- the mod cons.
dation, fast-food grills, bars, clubs and shops Indigo Mare (%28210 68156; www.indigomare.gr;
along busy main strip is teeming with Scan- Platanias; studio/apt incl breakfast from €90/104; as)
dinavians. The streets of the old town, which This upmarket apartment complex has well-
sprawls over a steep hill on the south side of fitted-out studios and apartments sleeping up
the road, are picturesque but touristy, though to four people, and a lovely pool overlooking
the beach.
RESTING PLACE EATING
About 1km west of Souda, is the im- Maria’s (%28210 68888; Kato Stalos; mains €5-9) For
maculately maintained Souda Bay War a good feed try the popular Maria’s, on the
Cemetery, where about 1500 British, Aus- eastern edge of Agia Marina, which serves
tralian and New Zealand soldiers who lost Cretan and Mediterranean food on a plant-
their lives in the Battle of Crete are buried. filled terrace. Try the local meat pie.
Beautifully situated at the water’s edge, the oDrakiana (%28210 61677; mains €6-13) It is
rows of white headstones make a moving worth the lovely hike through 3km of olive and
tribute to the Commonwealth’s heroic orange groves to get to this superbly located
defenders of Crete. More than half of the taverna under huge plane trees on a river bank.
graves are unidentified as the bodies were Look for a signposted turnoff from Platanias at
relocated from German burial grounds in the Mylos tou Kerata corner (see p92). Manolis
Hania, Rethymno, Iraklio and Galatas. Buses Mavromatis serves excellent Cretan cuisine
to Souda port that depart from outside the including a fennel pitta, meatballs in tomato
Hania food market on Giannari can drop sauce and special meat dishes such as suckling
you off at the cemetery. pig on the spit. There are also a picnic area, bar-
becues and a children’s playground nearby.
 92 S FA K I A & L E F K A O R I • • H a n i a t o O m a l o s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Aidonisos (%28210 83560; Gerani; mains €10.50-13.70; with boarded-up buildings, the road becomes
HANIA

dinner only) This well-regarded newcomer offers more scenic as it winds uphill to the modern,
contemporary Greek-style cuisine and some multicoloured Church of the Panagia. Next to it
excellent desserts. is a 14th-century chapel built on the foun-
Mylos tou Kerata (%28210 68578; Platanias; grills dations of a 6th-century basilica that might
€8-15; hdinner from 6pm) One of the best restaur- have been built on an even earlier Temple
ants in the area, it’s located in an old water of Aphrodite. At the entrance to the town a
mill. The ambience is pleasant, the menu and sign directs you to the Chapel of Metamorfosis
wine list extensive and there’s a huge range of Sotiros (Transfiguration of the Saviour) that
grilled chicken, lamb and beef fillets. contains 14th-century frescoes. The fresco
of the Transfiguration on the south wall is
ENTERTAINMENT particularly impressive.
Platanias and Agia Marina are lined with sum- The main road continues to the unspoilt
mer clubs whose popularity, names and décor village of Lakki (la-kee), 24km from Hania,
change year to year. In Platanias, the popular which affords stunning views wherever you
clubs were Destil, Utopia and Milos, with top- look. The village was a centre of resistance
name DJs also leading big dance events at during both the uprising against the Turks
Oceanos in Agia Marina. and in WWII.
Rooms for Rent Nikolas (%28210 67232; Lakki;
GETTING THERE & AWAY d €35) has comfortable, simple rooms above
Buses running between Hania and Kissa- a taverna, with magnificent views over the
mos-Kastelli stop in Platanias, Gerani and valley.
Agia Marina.
OMALOS ΟΜΑΛΌΣ
pop 30
SFAKIA & LEFKA ORI Most tourists only hurry through Omalos,
36km south of Hania, on their way to the
This region has some of the island’s most Samaria Gorge, but this plateau settlement
spectacular sights, including the Samaria deserves more of your time. During summer,
(sa-ma-ria) Gorge, the Lefka Ori Mountains the air is bracingly cool here compared with
and Mt Gingilos in the rugged interior. The the steamy coast and there are some great
province of Sfakia extends from the Omalos mountain walks in the area. After the morning
Plateau down to the southern coast and is Samaria rush, there’s hardly anyone on the
Crete’s most mountainous region. plateau except goats and shepherds.
Sfakia was the centre of resistance during Omalos is little more than a few hotels on
the island’s long centuries of domination by either side of the main road cutting through
foreign powers, its steep ravines and hills the plateau. The village is practically deserted
making effective hideaways for Cretan revo- in the winter. The town is about 4km before
lutionaries. The Sfakian people are renowned the entrance to the Samaria Gorge.
for their proud fighting spirit, which even
in the recent past has turned family against Sleeping & Eating
family in the form of murderous vendettas Generally, Omalos hotels are open when the
that have depopulated many of the region’s Samaria Gorge is open, although winter tour-
villages (see the boxed text, p97). ism is evolving. Most hotels have restaurants
Check out the website www.sfakia-crete that do a bustling trade serving breakfast to
.com for information on the region. hikers and are open at meal times the rest of
the day. Most will drive you to the start of
HANIA TO OMALOS the gorge.
The road from Hania to the beginning of the Hotel Neos Omalos (%28210 67269; www.neos-oma
Samaria Gorge is one of the most spectacular los.gr; s/d €20/30) has comfortable, modern, nicely
routes in Crete. After heading through orange decorated rooms which include phone, bath,
groves to the village of Fournes, a left fork leads with shower curtain and satellite TV. There’s
to Meskla, twisting and turning along a gorge a pleasant lounge in the reception area.
offering beautiful views. Although the bottom Elliniko (%28210 67169; s/d/tr €20/25/35) This
part of the town is not particularly attractive is the nearest to the Samaria Gorge and has
lonelyplanet.com S FA K I A & L E F K A O R I • • S a m a r i a G o r g e 93

HANIA
DETOUR: THERISO
For a day trip or an alternative route to Omalos, you can take the scenic road to Theriso, 14km
from Hania, via the village of Perivolia. This spectacular drive follows a running stream through
a green oasis and the 6km Theriso Gorge. At the foot of the Lefka Ori Mountains, at 500m above
sea level, the village was the site of historical battles against the Turks. These days it is popular
for its fine tavernas that host marathon Sunday lunches.
Two tavernas vie for top billing. O Leventis (%28210 77102) has a lovely courtyard under a
giant canopy of plane trees and makes a delicious and sizeable kreatotourta (local meat pie),
while O Antartis (%28210 78943) also has excellent mezedes and Cretan food.
Just past the village on your right, there is a small Museum of National Resistance with an
eerie monument outside paying tribute to a female resistance fighter. The old millstone was used
by Turkish occupiers in 1821 to crush Chrysi Tripiti to death in the local olive press.
A steep and winding road takes you through rugged mountain terrain and around an ever-
changing landscape of plane trees, olive, orange, eucalypt and pine through the villages of Zourva
and Meskla to Lakki, where you can continue to Omalos or head back to Hania.

simple double rooms with TV, although they stupendous gorge is still an experience to
are a little cramped. There is also an attached remember.
restaurant that is often busy with tour buses At 16km, the Samaria (sah-mah-rih-ah)
during lunch. Gorge is supposedly the longest in Europe.
Hotel Exari (%28210 67180; www.exari.gr; s/d €20/30) It begins just below the Omalos Plateau,
This big stone-built hotel has pleasant, well- carved out by the river that flows between
furnished rooms with TV, bathtub and balco- the peaks of Mts Avlimaniko (1858m) and
nies. The owner Yiorgos can deliver luggage Volakias (2115m). Its width varies from 150m
to Sougia for groups. There is an attached to 3m and its vertical walls reach 500m at their
taverna. highest points. The gorge has an incredible
You could also try the friendly Hotel Gingilos number of wild flowers, which are at their
(%28210 67181; s/d/tr €20/25/35). best in April and May.
Located in the hills between Omalos and It is also home to a large number of en-
the Samaria Gorge, Kallergi Hut (%28210 33199; dangered species, including the Cretan wild
dm without bathroom members/nonmembers €10/13) is goat, the kri-kri. The gorge was made a na-
maintained by the Hania EOS and makes tional park in 1962 to save the kri-kri from
a good base for exploring Mt Gingilos and extinction. You are unlikely to see too many
surrounding peaks, though it is a hike to get of these shy animals, which show a marked
there. aversion to hikers.
An early start (before 8am) helps to avoid
Getting There & Away the worst of the crowds, but during July and
There are three daily buses to Omalos from August even the early bus from Hania to the
Hania (one hour, €5.90). If want to hike the top of the gorge can be packed. There’s no
gorge and return to your room (and luggage) spending the night in the gorge so you are
in Omalos, you can take the afternoon boat going to have to complete the hike in the time
from Agia Roumeli to Sougia and get a taxi allocated. If you are not sure if you are fit
back to Omalos for about €35. enough, you could try the shorter (it’s about
half the length) but nonetheless picturesque
SAMARIA GORGE Imbros gorge (p95).
ΦΑΡΑΓΓΙ ΤΗΣ ΣΑΜΑΡΙΑΣ The hike from Xyloskalo (the name of the
Hiking through the Samaria Gorge (%28210 steep stone pathway with wooden rails that
67179; admission €5; h6am-3pm 1 May–mid-Oct) is gives access to the gorge), to Agia Roumeli (p95)
one of the ‘must-dos’ of Crete and attracts on the coast takes from about four hours for the
both serious hikers and people for whom it sprinters to six hours for the strollers. Early in
is clearly a one-off experience. Despite the the season it’s sometimes necessary to wade
crowds – more than 170,000 people walk through the stream. Later, as the flow drops, it’s
the gorge each year – a hike through this possible to use rocks as stepping stones.
 94 S FA K I A & L E F K A O R I • • A s k y f o u lonelyplanet.com

The gorge is wide and open for the first There are excursions to the Samaria Gorge
HANIA

6km, until you reach the abandoned settle- from every sizable town and resort on Crete,
ment of Samaria. The inhabitants were re- but you can get there easily enough from
located when the gorge became a national Hania by bus (see Omalos), then catch a
park. Just south of the village is a small church ferry from Agia Roumeli (see p96) back to
dedicated to Saint Maria of Egypt, after whom Hora Sfakion or other south coast towns.
the gorge is named. Most travel agents have two excursions:
The gorge then narrows and becomes more ‘Samaria Gorge Long Way’ and ‘Samaria
dramatic until, at the 11km mark, the walls are Gorge Easy Way’. The first comprises the
only 3.5m apart – the famous Iron Gates (Sidi- regular hike from Omalos; the second starts
roportes). Here, a rickety wooden pathway at Agia Roumeli and takes you up as far as the
leads hikers the 20m or so over the water and Iron Gates.
through to the other side.
The gorge ends at the 12.5km mark just ASKYFOU ΑΣΚΎΦΟΥ
north of the almost abandoned village of Old pop 444
Agia Roumeli. From here it’s a further unin- The road to Hora Sfakion takes you across
teresting 2km hike to the welcoming seaside the war-torn plain of Askyfou, which was
resort of Agia Roumeli, with its much appre- the scene of one of the most furious battles
ciated fine pebble beach and sparkling sea, of the Cretan revolt of 1821. The Sfakiot
where most hikers can be seen between after forces triumphed over the Turks in a bloody

ὈὈὈὈ
noon taking a refreshing dip or at least bath- battle here, which is still recounted in local
ing sore and aching feet. Be warned, falling songs. More than a century later the plain
rocks can be a hazard and people have been was the scene of more strife as Allied troops
injured, including two fatal incidents in 2006. retreated towards their evacuation point in
On extremely hot days the gorge is closed for Hora Sfakion. The central town of the region
safety reasons. is Askyfou, which stretches out on either side
of a hill. The post office is at the top of the hill

ὈὈὈὈ
SAMARIA GORGE 0 2 km with a mini-market and several tavernas with
0 1 mile
fairly cheap rooms to rent.
Om
a lo s
P l at e a u
As you enter Askyfou from Hania, signs
Kallergi direct you to the military museum (%28250 95289;
Mountain
Refuge
SAMARIA
admission free; %8am-7pm Mon-Sat), which displays
Chapel of Agios GORGE the gun and military odds-and-ends collection

ὈὈὈὈ
Nikolaos NATIONAL
Xyloskalo PARK of Georgios Hatzidakis, who is eager to show
Mt Gingilos Mt Avlimaniko you around.
(2080m) S (1858m)
For a glimpse of traditional Sfakian village
a Samaria
Mt Volakias life, it is worth veering right off the main
m

St Maria of
(2115m) Egypt Church
road to arrive at a small square flanked by
a r i

Mt Psiristra
(1766m) four kafeneia and statues of local resistance

ὈὈὈὈ
heroes. Just above the small square you’ll
a

probably see local black-clad gents under

G o r

Iron
Gates
the mulberry tree of the old-style kafeneio
(%28250 95228), where apart from the local
g e

myzithropita (cheese pie) with honey you can

Agia
Roumeli
normally get a basic meal such as local sau-
sage, or at weekends traditional wild goat or
lamb tsigariasto (sautéed) or vrasto (boiled),
Agia
Domata Roumeli charged by the kilo. And lots of raki.
Beach
On the way to Imbros, the upscale Lefkoritis
Resort (%28250 95455; www.lefkoritis.com; apt summer
€45-95) is a sizeable stone-built retreat popular
with hunters that operates year-round and has
LIBYAN SEA
a taverna. It has tasteful furnished rooms and
apartments sleeping up to six and enjoys sweep-
ing views of the surrounding mountains.
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • Agi a R o u m e l i 95

HANIA
A SHORT SURVIVAL GUIDE TO THE GORGE
The Samaria Gorge hike is not a Sunday stroll; it is long and, at times, hard. Do not attempt it if
you are not used to walking. If you find that the going is too tough within the first hour, there
are park wardens with donkeys who will take you back to the beginning. They will be on the
look out for stragglers.
Rugged footwear is essential for walking on the uneven ground, which is covered by sharp
stones. Don’t attempt the walk in unsuitable footwear – you will regret it. The track from Xyloskalo
to Agia Roumeli is downhill all the way and the ground makes for generally uneven walking.
Take a hat and sunscreen, plus a small bottle of water that can be refilled along the way in the
many springs spurting cool water (it’s inadvisable to drink water from the main stream). There
is nowhere to buy food, so bring energy food to snack on.

IMBROS GORGE ΦΑΡΆΓΓΙ ΙΜΠΡΟΥ €6-8) has a big balcony with great panoramic
The Imbros Gorge (admission €2; hyear-round), 57km views of the gorge and serves good-value
southeast of Hania, is less hiked than its illus- Cretan cuisine and generous raki. The meat
trious sister at Samaria but is just as beautiful. is usually its own and it often has wild goat.
Cypresses, holm oaks, fig and almond trees Try the special tsigariasto pork.
gradually thin to just cypresses and Jerusalem There are three daily buses from Hania
sage deep within the gorge. The walls of rock to Hora Sfakion (€6.50, 1¾ hours), which
reach 300m high, while the narrowest point stop at Imbros. Buses from Hora Sfakion to
of the ravine is only 2m wide. At only 8km the Hania stop at Komitades.
Imbros walk is also much easier on the feet. The Happy Walker (p126), in Rethymno,
Most people begin the walk in the mountain organises hikes through Imbros.
village of Imbros but you can also do it from the
southern village of Komitades. Both places are
used by gorge hikers and have plenty of mini-
markets and tavernas to fuel up at. There’s
SOUTHERN COAST
nowhere to stay in Imbros village. The rocky southern coast is dotted with
You’ll find the well-marked entrance to laid-back beach communities such as Pale-
the gorge next to Porofarango taverna on ohora, Sougia, Frangokastello and Loutro.
the road to Hora Sfakion. The track is easy These are some of the best places in Crete
to follow as it traces the stream bed past to relax. Many of the beaches are inacces-
rockslides and caves. The gorge path ends sible by road because of the mountains
at Komitades, from where you can walk and gorges that slice though this part of
5km or take a taxi to Hora Sfakion (€17 the island, which spill out to the beaches.
to €20). The Samaria Gorge ends at the village of
At the start of the gorge, the friendly fam- Agia Roumeli. This region has some stun-
ily taverna Porofarango (%28250 95450; mains ning walks and is the only place in Crete
where you can boat-hop along the coast to
isolated beaches.
DETOUR: DOURAKIS WINERY
Wine buffs will enjoy a stop at the Dourakis AGIA ROUMELI ΑΓΙΑ ΡΟΥΜΕΛΗ
winery (%28250 51761) near the Alikambos pop 123
turn-off on the road to Hora Sfakion. Wine- These days most hikers emerging from the
maker Andreas Dourakis is happy to show Samaria Gorge stop for a swim and lunch at
visitors around the stone-built winery and the tiny beach settlement of Agia Roumeli
there is a pleasant tasting room upstairs before catching a boat, which is the only
where you can sample some of his 17 excel- way out. Agia Roumeli is a pleasant enough
lent wines, including an organic red and his stopover, although the surrounding moun-
well-known Logari label. Dourakis produces tains can make it very hot and stifling. The
more than 180,000 bottles each year using pebble beach gets exceptionally hot and thus
local and foreign varietals. impossible to sit on for long unless you hire
a beach umbrella and sun lounge (€4).
 96 S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • H o r a S f a k i o n Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

If you’re in no hurry to leave, there are quite ing stay for a few days and there are several
HANIA

a few places to stay and decent places to eat. beaches accessible by boat or road, including
There are no tourist facilities or banks, and not the isolated Sweetwater and Ilingas beach to the
much to see, other than to walk up to the well- west. It’s also a convenient spot for heading
preserved ruins of a Venetian castle above the westwards to other resorts or taking a ferry
village (about 30 mins), or check out the Pana- to Gavdos.
gia church in the village, which has some surviv- Under Venetian and Turkish rule Hora
ing remnants of a Roman mosaic floor. Sfakion was an important maritime centre
On Easter Saturday, the tavernas of Agia and, as capital of the Sfakia region, the nu-
Roumeli put on a post-resurrection feast, which cleus of the Cretan struggle for independence.
anyone in the village is free to join. The Turks inflicted severe reprisals on the
town’s inhabitants for their rebelliousness
Sleeping & Eating in the 19th century, after which the town fell
Gigilos Taverna & Rooms (% 28250 91383; into an economic slump that lasted until the
[email protected]; mains €4-7; s/d/tr €25/35/40; a) arrival of tourism a couple of decades ago.
Right on the beach at the western end of Hora Sfakion played a prominent role dur-
the village, the best rooms are at the front ing WWII when thousands of Allied troops
the beach road. They are clean and nicely were evacuated by sea from the town after
furnished with decent new bathrooms and a the Battle of Crete.
communal fridge in the hall. The taverna has
a pleasant huge shady deck on the beach. Orientation & Information
Oasis (%28250 91391; s/d/tr €25/30/35; a) The The ferry quay is at the eastern side of the har-
family who run these rooms live downstairs, bour. Buses leave from the square up the hill
giving this place a friendly and homy feel. The on the northeastern side. There is one ATM.
simply furnished rooms have dated but func- The post office is on the square, opposite the
tional bathrooms, fridge and balconies. police station.
Farangi Restaurant & Rooms (%28250 91225; mains Sfakia Tours (%28250 91130), next to the post
€4.50-8.50; d/tr €30/35; a) On the beach road, office, rent cars and can help with accom-
Farangi has a range of Cretan specials and modation. There is parking near the bus stop
taverna standards as well as friendly service and the ferry terminal. Check email at Kenzo
and beer on tap. There are some tidy well- Club (h8am-late; €3 per hr).
equipped rooms above the restaurant with a Notos Mare Diving Centre (%28250 91333; www
fridge, kettle and TV, some with sea views. .notosmare.com; from €42) offers a range of experi-
ences for beginners and experienced divers, as
Getting There & Away well as snorkelling and boat excursions along
The boat ticket office (%28250 91251) is a small the south coast.
concrete structure near the beach. You can also go bungee jumping off the
There are two afternoon boats daily (3.45pm Aradena (Aradhena) bridge (see p74).
& 6pm) from Agia Roumeli to Hora Sfakion
(€7.50, one hour) via Loutro (€5, 45 minutes) Sleeping & Eating
that connect with the bus back to Hania, as Samaria & Lyvikon (%28250 91261, 28250 91211;
well as the morning boat from Paleohora to fax 28250 91161; s/d €20/30; a) These prominent
Hora Sfakion. You can also head west catch- neighbouring establishments have a range
ing a boat from Agia Roumeli to Paleohora of decent, though dated, budget rooms. The
(€11, 1.5 hours) at 4.45pm, calling in at Sougia Lyvikon has brighter rooms with bathtubs,
(€6.30, 45 minutes). fridge and TV and sea view balconies. They
are virtually under the same management and
HORA SFAKION ΧΟΡΑ ΣΦΑΚΙΩΝ the tavernas share a kitchen.
pop 302 Rooms Stavris (%28250 91220; stavris@sfakia-crete
Hora Sfakion (ho-ra sfa-ki-on) is the small .com; s/d €21/24; a) Up the steps at the western
coastal port where the hordes of walkers end of the port, it has clean, basic rooms –
from the Samaria Gorge spill off the boat some with kitchenettes and fridges. There
and onto the bus back to Hania. Most people were plans to refurbish them.
pause only long enough to catch the next Lefka Ori (%28250 9109; www.chorasfakion.com; s/d
bus out, but the settlement can be a relax- €23/27; a) This taverna at the western end of
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • A r o u n d H o r a S f a k i o n 97

the port does some solid trade and has budget (€6.50, 1 hour). There are two buses daily to

HANIA
rooms behind the restaurant. Frangokastello (€1.50, 25 minutes).
Xenia (%28250 91490; fax 28250 91491; d €33-38; a)
The best value rooms in town are the spa- AROUND HORA SFAKION
cious seafront rooms in the modern wing of A scenic, hair-raisingly steep, 12km winding
this refurbished hotel well-positioned at the road west from Hora Sfakion takes you to
western edge of town. The rooms in the main Anopoli (Ανώπολη), a quiet village in a fertile
building are more cramped. plateau at the base of the Lefka Ori, with a
There are no standout dining options, memorial to resistance fighters in the main
though Delfini (%28250 91002) is the pick of plateia (square). It was one of the few areas
the bunch. that did not fall to the Turks, which you can
You can enjoy a lovely sunset and stun- appreciate when you see its location.
ning views as far as Loutro from the Tha- The Orfanoudakis bakery (% 28250 91189)
lassa Café, about 1.5km along the road out has some exceptional semi-sweet biscuits,
of town. rusks and sweet treats including mega-size
Sfakianes pites. They also rent attractive and
Getting There & Away spacious new studios and apartments nearby
BOAT (€35).
Boat tickets are sold in the ticket booth (%28250 You can also reach Anopoli from an
91221) in the car park. From June through Au- extremely steep path leading up from Loutro.
gust there is a daily boat from Hora Sfakion The virtually abandoned stone hamlet of
to Paleohora (€11, three hours) via Loutro, Aradena, about 2km west of Anopoli, is famous
Agia Roumeli and Sougia. The boat leaves for the Vardinogiannis bridge that crosses over
at Hora Sfakion at 1pm and stops for two the Aradena gorge. At the kantina next to the
hours at Agia Roumeli to catch the gorge bridge you can get directions for a remote
walkers heading west. There are four add- refuge at nearby Agios Ioannis.
itional boats between Hora Sfakion and Agia At weekends you will see people launching
Roumeli (€7.50, one hour) via Loutro (€4, 15 themselves off the bridge 138m into the gorge –
minutes). From 1 June there are boats (€12, this is the highest bungee jumping (%6937
1½ hours) to Gavdos island (see p106) on 615191; www.bungy.gr) bridge in Greece. For a
Friday, Saturday and Sunday. less adrenalin-pumped experience, you can
reach the gorge entrance by rambling through
BUS the ruins of the village. It takes two and a half
There are four buses per day from Hora hours to walk to Marmara beach, and the excel-
Sfakion to Hania (€6.50, two hours) – the af- lent Dialeskari taverna (%6942 201456) perched
ternoon buses at 5.30pm and 7pm wait for the above this idyllic (except at weekends and
boats from Agia Roumeli. In summer there August) pebble cove. There are three basic
are three daily buses to Rethymno via Vryses rooms without power for rent.

CRETAN VENDETTAS
Cretans might be famously welcoming to strangers, but they are notorious throughout Greece
for murderous family vendettas that have lasted for generations and caused hundreds of Cretans
to flee the island.
Particularly prevalent among the harsh mountain people of Sfakia, where whole villages have
been decimated due to vendettas, the disputes can start over the theft of sheep, an errant bullet
at a wedding or anything deemed an insult to family honour. The insult is avenged with a murder,
which must be avenged with another murder … and so the blood feud continues. Modernity has
somewhat stemmed the carnage but there are still occasional mysterious cases where police can
find no witnesses or people willing to come forward with information about a killing, including
an incident in 2007 where an army conscript was shot in a barracks in Rethymno in front of his
family and other witnesses but no one would identify the assailant. Avengers have also been
known to pursue their targets across Greece and occasionally across the globe (as portrayed in
the movie Beware of Greeks Bearing Guns).
 98 S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • F r a n g o k a s t e l l o Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

FRANGOKASTELLO Stavris Studios (%28250 92250; stavris@sfakia-crete

HANIA

ΦΡΑΝΚΟΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΟ .com; studio €35-38; a) This quiet, well-main-

pop 154 tained place is on the right as you enter the
Frangokastello is a striking 14th-century town from Hora Sfakion. The rooms have
fortress on a fine stretch of beach along the kitchenettes and balconies and sea views and
south coast, 15km east of Hora Sfakion. It adjoining rooms for families.
is popular with day-trippers, but the scat- Mylos (%28250 92161; www.milos-sfakia.com; studio
tered beach settlement around the castle is a €35-50;a) This old stone windmill in a pretty
peaceful retreat. The wide, white-sand beach spot on the beach has been turned into an
beneath the fortress slopes gradually into apartment and the four stone cottages under
shallow warm water, making it ideal for kids. the tamarisk trees are now pleasant studios.
Development has been kept to a minimum There are also modern well-equipped studios
with most accommodation set back from nearby.
the shore leaving the natural beauty largely Fata Morgana & Paradisos (%28250 92077; www
untouched. .fatamorgana-kreta.com; studio €40-50; a) Set among
Frangokastello has an eventful history. an olive grove above Orthi Ammos beach,
The sand-coloured fortress was built by the this lovely complex has a range of attractive,
Venetians as a defence against pirates and spacious, fully-equipped studios and larger
rebellious Sfakiots. The legendary Ioannis apartments for families, as well as two cosy
Daskalogiannis, who led a disastrous rebel- mock castles (€55). There’s a playground and
lion against the Turks in 1770, was persuaded a chook/bird pen to amuse the kids.
to surrender at the Frangokastello Fortress The best place to eat is the Oasis Taverna
but he was flayed alive. On May 17 1828, 385 (%/fax 28250 92136; www.oasisrooms.com; mains €4.50-
Cretan rebels made a heroic last stand at the 8), part of an excellent family-run studio and
fortress in one of the bloodiest battles of the apartment complex at the western end of the
Cretan struggle for independence. About 800 beach. The taverna’s well-executed Cretan
Turks were killed along with the rebels. specials include a delicious kreatopita (meat
Legend has it that at dawn each anniver- and cheese pie). The spacious rooms have full
sary their ghosts, the drosoulites, can be seen sized kitchens, are set among a lovely garden
marching along the beach. Others theorise and you can walk to a quiet stretch of beach.
that the ‘ghosts’ are an optical illusion cre- Taverna Babis & Popi (%28250 92091; www.fran
ated by peculiar atmospheric conditions and gokastello.de; specials €3-5.50) This taverna serves
that the figures may be a reflection of camels decent, good-value meals under a shady vine
or soldiers in the Libyan Desert. The name canopy tucked behind the family’s rooms and
comes from the Greek word drosia meaning minimarket.
‘moisture’, which in itself could refer to the Flisvos Taverna (%28250 92069; mains €5.5-9) En-
dawn moisture that is around when the ghosts joys a lovely setting right on the water under
are said to appear. some tamarisk trees, and serves reasonable
There’s no actual village centre in Fran- food. There are some rather cramped rooms
gokastello, just a series of scattered domatia, above the taverna (€35) but they also have
tavernas and residences that stretch either bigger apartments by the beach, as well as two
side of the main road from Hora Sfakion restored houses in a nearby village.
to the fortress, as well as a couple of mini-
markets. The bus stops at several spots along Getting There & Away
the main road. In summer, two daily buses from Hora Sfakion
To the east of the castle is the stunning Orthi to Plakias stop at Frangokastello (€1.50, 25
Ammos beach, with a long stretch of steep sand minutes). From Hania there’s a daily after-
dunes (not pleasant on a windy day). noon bus (€7.20, 2½ hours). From Rethymno,
you need to change at Vryses.
Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation is reasonably good value LOUTRO ΛΟΥΤΡΌ
and mostly designed for longer stays. Those pop 89
after value for money would be wise to avoid The small but densely built up fishing village
the over-the-top Kriti taverna, across from of Loutro (loo-tro) lies between Agia Roumeli
the castle. and Hora Sfakion. The town is little more than
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N C OA S T 99

HANIA
WALKS AROUND LOUTRO Graham Williams
Loutro to Marble Beach via Livaniana
Distance: 6.5km
Duration: 3½ hours
Take the path beside the Hotel Daskalogiannis and follow the yellow/black E4 markers over the
headland to Phoenix. As you descend there is a sign to Phoenix: take the right-hand path that
goes around the houses. Cross the dirt road and head directly up the hill towards Livaniana in
the distance. At the top of the hill take the path signposted to Livaniana and follow the blue-
paint markers. Cross the road again and follow the obvious path that traverses up to the road
on the outskirts of the village; 200m on is a taverna that sells cold drinks.
Walk on up the hill aiming for the church. Past the church, follow the blue markers to a sign
pointing to Marble Beach. The markers take you around the field and along the edge of the old
olive terrace. After 100m you come to a gap in a fence, where you look down into the Aradena
Gorge. Look out for Bonelli’s eagles riding the thermals. Turn left and follow the blue-paint mark-
ers, which lead you down towards the floor of the gorge. At the bottom turn left towards the
sea and Marble Beach. The route is not always obvious with the faded red paint being the most
reliable waymarking. Marble Beach has a taverna that serves simple meals.
To return to Loutro, follow the E4 path that starts behind the beach and the yellow/black paint
spots. After half an hour you reach the hamlet of Likkos. Walk through the tavernas then follow
the path (blue paint), which leads over the headland where you meet the path to Livaniana.

Loutro to Anopoli & the Aradena Gorge

Distance: 7km (9km if walking back to Loutro on the E4)
Duration: 5–6 hours
This is a strenuous, full-day’s walk, which takes in an authentic country village, and spectacular
gorge with a beach at the end of it.
Make an early start as all the hard effort is at the beginning – a 680m climb from the sea up to
the plain of Anopoli. The path starts behind the Kri Kri taverna: go through the new metal gate,
turn left and follow the path up the hillside. After an hour you reach a dirt road, cross it and keep
going until you meet it again. Turn right and walk 100m until you reach a cistern on your left where
you pick up the path again. After 200m the path forks: turn left and continue up the hill. You are
aiming for the point below the walled compound you can see above you. At the top, enjoy the
view, then follow the tarmac road to the town square where there are a couple of tavernas.
Follow the road sign to Aradena and follow it for 1.5km. Just as the ruins of Aradena come
into view look for a small cairn and path on the right side of the road marked with faded blue
spots. Walk along it pointing directly at Aradena, before descending into the gorge. At the bot-
tom turn left. After 20 minutes you reach a staircase cut into the side of the gorge, follow it with
care for 300m. In the past the Aradena Gorge was a tough proposition as getting around this
section meant scrambling using fixed ropes and ladders.
Follow the cairns and faded red-paint spots until you reach the junction with the Livaniana
path and continue as for the Loutro to Marble Beach via Livaniana walk above.

Hora Sfakion to Sweetwater Bay & Loutro

Distance: 5.5km
Duration: 2 hours
Follow the road west from Sfakion, signposted to Omalos. After 20 minutes you cross a culvert then
ascend to the first switchback where there is an E4 sign to Sweetwater Bay. Follow the path marked
with yellow/black paint marks and poles, which passes through a rock fall where the progress is
slower, and arrives at Sweetwater after one hour. Across the bay the trail continues up beside the
taverna to the top of the headland. Loutro is one hour further on, an easy if shadeless path.

A booklet called Walks Around Loutro is also available from shops in Loutro priced €5.

Graham Williams has been walking in Crete annually since 1988.

 100 S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • S o u g i a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

a crescent of white-and-blue domatia around are just above the village. They have great
HANIA

a narrow beach. It’s a pleasant, lazy resort that views, ceiling fans and air-con, kitchenettes
is never overwhelmed with visitors, although and balconies.
it can get busy and rather claustrophobic in Faros (%/fax 28250 91334; d/tr €35/40; a) These
July and August. It is a popular base for walk- spacious and airy rooms with beamed ceil-
ers (see p99). ings are a stone’s throw from the beach, and
Loutro is the only natural harbour on the have fridges and balconies. Air-con is €5
south coast of Crete and is only accessible by extra.
boat or on foot. The absence of cars and bikes Rooms Sofia (%28250 91354; d/tr €20/25) Above
make it quiet and peaceful. the Sofia mini-market, one street back from
Its advantageous geographical position was the beach, these are probably the cheapest
appreciated in ancient times when it was the rooms in town. They’re plain and clean and
port for Phoenix and Anopoli. St Paul is said a little cramped but most have a fridge and
to have been heading to Phoenix from here air-con.
when he encountered a storm that blew him You could also try Keramos (%28250 91356;
off course past Gavdos Island and to eventually €35), which has simple budget rooms all
be shipwrecked in Malta. brightly painted with Minoan murals. The
Loutro is a good base for boat excursions top floor has air-con for €5 extra.
along the southern coast. You can rent canoes Given the captive market, the tavernas that
(per hr/day €2/7) and a small ferry goes to nearby line the waterfront in Loutro are surprisingly
Sweetwater beach (€3.50, 15 mins). good. Most prominently display a wide range
of mayirefta and you can’t miss the dazzling
Orientation & Information range of cakes and sweets. Recommended
There’s no bank or post office, but there are are Notos (%28250 91501) for excellent mezedes
places to change money at the western end (€2.50-7), Pavlos (%28250 91366; grills €6-8) for
of the beach. Boats dock in front of the Sifis grills and Ilios (%28250 91460) for fish.
Hotel. The ticket stall opens an hour before
departures. There is internet access (per hr €4) at Getting There & Away
the Daskalogiannis Hotel. Loutro is on the main Paleohora–Hora Sfakion
boat route. From April to October there are
Sleeping & Eating four boats per day from Hora Sfakion (€4,
Loutro has good budget accommodation 15 minutes), four from Agia Roumeli (€5, 45
options, with most places overlooking the minutes), and one boat per day from Paleo-
harbour. hora (€13, 2½ hours). Taxi boats go to Sweet-
The Blue House (%28250 91127; bluehouseloutro@ water Beach and Hora Sfakion.
chania-cci.gr; d €40-45 a) has a mix of spacious,
well-appointed rooms with big verandas over- SOUGIA ΣΟΥΓΙΑ
looking the port. The nicer rooms are in the pop 97
refurbished top floor section. The taverna Sougia is one of the most laid back and re-
downstairs serves excellent mayirefta (€5 to freshingly undeveloped beach resorts along
€7), including delicious garlicky spinach and the south coast, with a lovely wide curve of
a great boureki (small pastry pie) baked with sand-and-pebble beach and a few tavernas
zucchini, potato and goat’s cheese. and rooms along a shady tree-lined coastal
Hotel Porto Loutro I & II (%28250 91433; www road. It was once a popular remote hippy
.hotelportoloutro.com; s/d/tr €45/55/65 with breakfast; a) hangout and many nostalgic ex-hippies re-
is the classiest hotel in Loutro, spread across turn religiously each year. It retains its chill-
two buildings. Rooms are simply decorated out atmosphere and there is little to do other
in understated island style, with quality linen than relax and recharge depleted batteries
and extra pillows, fridge and phone and small for a few days.
balconies overlooking the beach. They don’t Sougia’s tranquillity has been preserved
accept children under seven. largely because of archaeological remains at
Apartments Niki (%/fax 28250 91259; www.loutro eastern end of the beach that prohibit de-
-accommodation.com; studio & apt €40-55;a) These velopment. It lies at the foot of a narrow,
beautifully furnished two- to four-person twisting road that also deters most tour buses
studios with beamed ceilings and stone floors and passing traffic. There are a few small
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • A r o u n d S o u g i a 101

complexes of rooms, a few tavernas, a couple Eating

HANIA
of lazy beach bars, two open-air clubs and a Polyfimos (%28230 51343; mains €5.20-7.80; hdinner)
small settlement of campers and nudists at Tucked away off the Hania road behind the
the eastern end of the beach. It is also great police station, ex-hippy Yianni makes his own
hiking territory, close to the Samaria and oil, wine and raki and even makes dolmades
Agia Irini Gorges. (vine leaves stuffed with rice) from the vines
The ancient town was on the western side that cover the shady courtyard. The food is
of the existing village. It flourished under the excellent and service from the affable Savvas
Romans and Byzantines when it was the port delightful.
for Elyros, an important inland city (now dis- Kyma (%28230 51670; meat dishes €5.50-7) On the
appeared). A 6th-century basilica that stood waterfront as you enter town, with the fish
at the western end of the village contained tank in the front, Kyma has a good selection
a fine mosaic floor that is now in the Hania of mayirefta, its own meat and fresh local
Archaeological Museum (p82). fish supplied by the owner’s brother. Try the
There is one road into Sougia and the bus tsigariasto (goat in wine) or the rabbit. If you
drops you on the coastal road in front of are up for a splurge, try the langoustine spa-
the Santa Irene hotel, where there is a ticket ghetti (€70 per kg).
booth. There is an ATM next to Taverna Ga- Taverna Rembetiko (%28230 51510; mezedes €2.30-
lini. Check out www.sougia.info for informa- 3.80) On the road to Hania, this popular tav-
tion about the town. erna has an extensive menu of Cretan dishes
Roxana’s snack store (%28230 51668; h5am-late) such as boureki and stuffed zucchini flowers.
sells boat tickets to Elafonisos. Internet Lotos It has a great atmosphere and is known for its
(%28230 51191; per hr €3; h7am-late) can get you good Greek music.
online. Also recommended is the international-style
cuisine of French-run Omikron, and Livykon
Sleeping taverna at the western end of the beach.
Aretousa (%28230 51178; fax 28230 51178; s/d/studio
€35/40/42; a) This lovely pension on the road to Entertainment
Hania has bright and comfortable refurbished Sougia has two open-air clubs that can get sur-
rooms with new beds and linen, flat screen prisingly lively for such a small resort. Alabama
TVs, as well as studios with kitchenettes. on the eastern side of the beach is the perennial
Captain George (%28230 51133; g-gentek@otenet favourite, while Fortuna, on your left before
.gr; s/d/studio €35/40/48; a) Attractive, good value the entrance to the town, has had an impres-
rooms and studios among a lovely garden sive makeover and is a great place for a late
with a resident kri-kri. The captain also runs night drink. Both kick off after midnight.
taxi boat trips to nearby Lissos, Domata and
other beaches. Getting There & Away
Rooms Ririka (%28230 51167; s/d €35/40; a) There’s a daily bus travelling from Hania to
Small but homy rooms right on the east- Sougia (€6.10, 1hr 50 mins). Sougia is also on
ern side of the beach over a lovely garden the Paleohora-Hora Sfakion boat route. Boats
courtyard. leave in the morning for Agia Roumeli (€6.30,
Santa Irene Hotel (%28230 51342; www.sougia 13/4 hours), Loutro (€10, 1½ hours) and Hora
.info/hotels/santairene; s/d/apt €35/45/55; ai) The Sfakion (€11, 13/4 hours). For Paleohora (€7,
rooms at this smart hotel on the beach have one hour) to the west there is a departure
marble floors, TV and kitchenettes, while at 5.15pm.
there are also two family rooms with baby
cots available. Prices drop dramatically off AROUND SOUGIA
season. Twelve kilometres north of Sougia is the
Arhontiko (%28230 51200; r €40-50; a) Tucked mouth of the pretty Agia Irini Gorge, which may
behind the supermarket, Arhontiko has spa- not be as fashionable as Samaria Gorge (p93)
cious, attractive new studios and apartments but is less crowded and gruelling. The 7km
comfortable for longer stays. gorge is carpeted with oleander and chestnut
Also recommended is Pension Galini (%/fax trees and is fragrant with rosemary, sage and
28230 51488; s/d/tr €35/40/45; a) which has well- thyme. You’ll see the entrance to the gorge
appointed rooms and barbecue facilities. on the right if you’re travelling from Sougia.
 102 S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • Pa l e o h o r a lonelyplanet.com

You’ll cross a stream bed before coming to on its days as a tranquil fishing village were
HANIA

olive groves (where many trees were destroyed numbered. Despite the mid-sized hotels and
in a fire in 1994). From there, the path follows package tourists, the place is still appealing
a dried-out river bed bordered by caves carved and retains a laid-back feel. The number of
into the rock. There are a number of rest stops backpackers is dwindling but it attracts many
along the way and many tranquil places to walkers in spring and autumn and people who
stop and admire the scenery. come back year after year. The tourist profile
Paleohora travel agents (opposite) offer has gone up an age bracket and it has become
guided walks through the gorge but it’s easy more of a family destination, though it gets
enough to organise independently – just catch much livelier in the peak of summer. It is also
the Omalos bus from Paleohora or the Hania the only beach resort on Crete that does not
bus from Sougia, and get off at Agia Irini. go into total hibernation in winter.
The town lies on a narrow peninsula with
Lissos Λiσσοσ a long, curving tamarisk-shaded sandy beach
The ruins of ancient Lissos are 1½ hours walk exposed to the wind on one side and a shel-
from Sougia on the coastal path to Paleohora tered pebbly beach on the other. The most
(see the boxed text, p106), which starts at the picturesque part of Paleohora is the maze of
far end of Sougia’s small port. narrow streets around the castle.
Lissos arose under the Dorians, flourished On summer evenings the main street and
under the Byzantines and was destroyed by beach road is closed to traffic and the tavernas
the Saracens in the 9th century. It was part of move onto the road, giving the place a lively
a league of city-states, led by ancient Gortyna, summer ambience.
which minted its own gold coins inscribed
with the word ‘Lission’. At one time there was Orientation & Information
a reservoir, a theatre and hot springs, but these Paleohora has an attractive seafront prom-
have not yet been excavated. Most of what you enade, along with the main road (Venizelou)
see dates from the 1st through 3rd centuries which is cut off to traffic – they are the centres
BC when Lissos was known for its curative of activity in the early evening. Boats leave
springs. The 3rd-century-BC Temple of Asklepion from the old harbour at the southern end
was built next to one of the springs and named of the pebble beach. There are ATMs on the
after the Greek god of healing, Asklipios. main drag.
Excavations here uncovered a headless Erato Internet (%28230 8301; Eleftheriou Venizelou;
statue of Asclepius along with 20 other statue per hr €3)
fragments now in the Hania Archaeological Municipal tourist office (%28230 41507; h10am-
Museum (p82). You can still see the marble 1pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon May-Oct) On the beach road near
altar base that supported the statue next to the the harbour.
pit in which sacrifices were placed. The other Notos Internet (%28230 42110; Eleftheriou Venizelou
notable feature is the mosaic floor of multicol- 53; per hr €2; h8am-10pm)
oured stones intricately arranged in beautiful Post office At the northern end of Pahia Ammos beach.
geometric shapes and images of birds. On the Wash & Go Laundry (wash €4; dry €4) Next to Notos,
way down to the sea there are traces of Roman keeps the same hours.
ruins, and on the western slopes of the valley
are unusual barrel-vaulted tombs. Sights & Activities
Nearby are the ruins of two early Christian It’s worth clambering up the ruins of the 13th-
basilicas – Agios Kirkos and the Panagia – dating century Venetian castle for the splendid view of
from the 13th century. the sea and mountains. The castle was built
Lissos has a lovely beach to cool off after so the Venetians could keep an eye on the
the walk, and if you come on July 15 you will southwestern coast from this commanding
stumble on the annual festival, held in honour position on the hill-top. There’s not much left
of Agios Kirkos. of the fortress, however, as it was destroyed
by the Venetians, the Turks, the pirate Bar-
PALEOHORA ΠΑΛΑΙΟΧΩΡΑ barossa in the 16th century, and the Germans
pop 2205 during WWII.
Paleohora (pal-ee-o-hor-a) was discovered There are several great beaches and walking
by hippies back in the ’60s and from then trails nearby. From Paleohora, a six-hour walk
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • Pa l e o h o r a 103

along a scenic coastal path leads to Sougia, pass- northeast of the town, about 50m from Peb-

HANIA
ing ancient Lissos (see opposite). You can also ble Beach. There is a taverna but no mini-
do an easier walk around Anydri (p105). market and facilities are a bit primitive,
Aqua Creta Diving & Adventures (%28230 41393; though the new management say they will
www.aquacreta.gr; Kondekaki 4) runs a range of diving improve things. You can rent tents (small/
courses from beginner dives (€50) to seven- to large €6/10).
10-day master courses (€580). They also run Homestay Anonymous (%28230 41509; www
one-day beach-hopping and snorkelling ex- .anonymoushomestay.com; s/d/tr €17/24/28) This ex-
cursions to remote beaches along the southern cellent small pension has great value rooms
coast and as far as Gavdos (€50-60). with private bathrooms and shared cooking
Museum of the Acritans of Europe (%28230 42265; facilities in the courtyard garden. The rooms
Next to the Panagia Church; admission free; h10am-1pm are clean and tastefully furnished and the old
& 6.30-9pm Wed-Sun ) This obscure museum is stone walls have been exposed, adding to its
dedicated to the border fighters and heroes character. The amiable owner, Manolis, is full
of Europe’s medieval and Byzantine times. of useful information for travellers and his
It has a well-displayed historical exhibition mother next door looks after the place. Rooms
along with musical instruments, weapons and can connect to accommodate families.
other items from the period. The Paleohora Oriental Bay Rooms (% 28230 41076; s/d/tr
connection remains a mystery. €30/35/38; a) These immaculate rooms are in
the large modern building at the northern
Tours end of Pebble Beach. Rooms have balconies
You can hike the Samaria and Agia Irini with sea or mountain views and come with
Gorge from Paleohora, either through or- kettle and fridge.
ganised tours or the local KTEL bus service, Villa Anna (%2810 346 428; [email protected].
returning by ferry. gr; apt €42-80; a) Set among a lovely shady
In summer, you can take a day trip to Ela- garden bordered by tall poplars, these well-
fonisos by ferry (see p105). Dolphin-watching appointed, family-friendly apartments can
trips (€18; three hrs) leave at 5pm. They reckon sleep up to five people. There are cots, and
you have a 50-50 chance of spotting one when swings and a sandpit in the garden and the
it’s not windy. grounds are secured.
Tsiskakis Travel (%28230 42110; www.notoscar.com; Haris Studios (%28230 42438; www.paleochoraholi
Eleftheriou Venizelou 53) days.com; d/apt €45/50; a) Right on the dramatic
Selino Travel (%28230 42272; [email protected]) rocky seafront around from the port, these
friendly well-fitted studios are open all winter.
Sleeping The top rooms are nicer and have great views.
Camping Grammeno (%/fax 28230 42125; per person/ The bathrooms are basic but functional. Scot-
tent €4.27/3) This new camp site is at Gram- tish Flora cooks up a feast for guests once a
meno Beach, about 5km west along the road week, often the day’s catch from keen fisher-
to Koundoura. man partner Haris.
Camping Paleohora (%28230 41120; sites per Aris Hotel (%28230 41502; www.aris-hotel.gr; s/d
person/tent €5/3) This large camp site is 1.5km €40/50 with breakfast) This friendly good-value

LETTING IT ALL HANG OUT

In most places in Crete topless sunbathing is allowed, though it is wise in family areas to take
heed of others around you or any signs asking you to keep your gear on.
Although naturism is not officially allowed, the remote south coast beaches have a more
relaxed attitude and you’ll find a sprinkling of naturists on the far ends of most remote beaches
or in secluded coves. Many Greek naturists, free campers (though rarely locals) and old hip-
pies frequent these beaches too, which despite the flesh factor can have a laid-back, even fam-
ily ambience. Beaches that are currently popular with naturists include Kommos near Matala,
Sweetwater Beach, the south end of the sandy beach in Paleohora and the east end of Sougia.
Sweetwater, close to Loutro is an old standby as is Orthi Ammos, east of Frangokastello and
Ditikos, west of Lendas.
 104 S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • Pa l e o h o r a lonelyplanet.com

hotel at the far end of the road skirting around good range of vegetarian dishes and grills. It
HANIA

the headland from the port welcomes inde- has a roomy interior and tables spread across
pendent travellers. There are bright garden the main street.
and sea view rooms with some adjoining oThird Eye (%28230 41234; mains €5) It’s
rooms and balconies for families, and you not just vegetarians who flock to the Third
can get great rates off season. Eye, just inland from Pahia Ammos. Crete’s
Also recommended is the larger Villa Marise only vegetarian restaurant has an eclectic
(%28230 41162; www.villamarise.com; s) complex, menu of curries, salads, pastas and Greek
it’s on the beach and has a great beach bar. and Asian dishes, much of it made from the
family farm’s organic produce. There is often
Eating live music on Saturdays. They also have good
Paleohora has decent and generally good- budget rooms and apartments (€20-40) up-
value eateries. stairs with air-con, fridge and balconies.
Dionysos Taverna (%28230 41243; mains €4.40-6.80) Kyma (%28230 41110; top fish €42 per kg) One of
One of the oldest tavernas in town, the popu- the better places for fresh, local fish, Kyma is
lar Dionysos is known for top-grade food, run by a fisherman: the offerings are normally
particularly its excellent mayirefta. There is a from his own catch. It has a pleasant setting

0 200 m
PALEOHORA 0 0.1 miles

To Camping Paleohora (1.5km);

Paleohora Club (1.5km) 14
To Grammeno (7km); To Kissamos-Kastelli (46km); 20
Koundoura (8km) Hania (78km)
26 25 19
Oriental Bay
Beach
16
7
29

15
School

5 2
lou

22
ize

18
en

13
uV

1 Halikia Beach
(Pebble Beach)
o
eri
fth
E le

21 3 6
Pahia Ammos
(Sandy Beach) 24 4
31 To Sougia;
Kondek 27 Agia Roumeli;
aki
Gavdos
Old
9 8 Harbour SLEEPING
30
Quay Homestay Anonymous.............13 B2
23 17
32 Oriental Bay Rooms.................14 D1
28 Villa Anna.................................15 B1
Villa Marise..............................16 A1

EATING
Bakakis Bakery.........................17 C2
Einai Yrela

10 Dionysos Taverna.....................18 C2
MEDITERRANEAN
11 Kyma.......................................19 D1
SEA Oriental Bay.............................20 D1
Sartzetakis Zaharoplasteion......21 C2
Supermarket............................22 A2
Third Eye..................................23 B3
To Haris To Kiparaki...............................24 B2
Studios
12 (200m); ENTERTAINMENT
Aris Hotel
(500m) Cinema Attikon........................25 B1
La Jettee...................................26 A1
INFORMATION Tsiskakis Travel............................(see 6) Nostos Club.............................27 C2
Agricultural Bank...........................1 C2 Wash & Go Laundry....................(see 6) Skala........................................28 C3
Erato Internet.................................2 C2
Laundry..........................................3 C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES TRANSPORT
Municipal Tourist Office.................4 C2 Aqua Creta Diving & Adventures...9 B2 Bus Station...............................29 C1
National Bank of Greece.................5 C2 Church.........................................10 B3 Ferries to Sougia, Agia Roumeli &
Libyan
Notos Internet................................6 C2 Museum of the Acritans of Gavdos SeaIsland......................30 C3
Post Office.....................................7 A1 Europe......................................11 B3 Notos Rentals...........................31 C2
Selino Travel..................................8 C2 Venetian Castle............................12 B4 Taxi Stand................................32 C3
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • A r o u n d Pa l e o h o r a 105

right on the quiet end of the beach, with a few continues three times per week in summer to

HANIA
tables outside under the trees. Gavdos (€15, 2½ hours).
To Kiparaki (%28230 42281; mains €8-9) This From mid-April M/B Elafonisos ferries
Dutch-run little place serves Asian-style food people to the west-coast beach of Elafonisi
using only fresh produce for its daily changing (€7, one hour). The service increases from
menu. There are only eight tables in the little three times per week to daily in mid-May
garden out the back. through September. It departs at 10am and
Oriental Bay (%28230 41322; mains €5-8) This returns at 4pm.
beachside taverna is one of the best options on Tickets can be bought at Selino Travel
this side of the village. In addition to a range (%28230 42272; [email protected]).
of cheap vegetarian choices, such as green
beans and potatoes, there are dishes such as BUS
‘rooster’s kiss’ (chicken fillet with bacon) and In summer there are four to six buses per day
‘drunk cutlet’ (pork chop in red wine). from the bus station (%28230 41914) to Hania
Also recommended are the excellent sweets (€6.50, two hours). There is also one daily
and homemade ice cream at Sartzetakis Zaharo- service, departing 6.15am, to Omalos (€5.50,
plasteion (%28230 41231) and the Bakakis Bakery 2 hours), for the Samaria Gorge, which also
(%28230 41069) for snacks. stops at the entrance to the Agia Irini Gorge
For excellent traditional Cretan food it is (€4.50).
worth the trip to Grammeno (%28230 41505; Cretan
specials €4.50-9) just past the beach, about 5km Getting Around
west of Paleohora. The menu includes special- Notos Rentals (%28230 42110; [email protected];
ties such as braised rooster, various wild greens, Eleftheriou Venizelou) rents cars, motorcycles and
lamb in vine leaves and tender roast goat. mountain bikes.
Right on Krios Beach – at the eastern end of The taxi stand (%28230 41128; 6972 726 149) is
Koundoura about 9km from Paleohora – there near the port. Sample fares are Kissamos (€40),
is a kantina that serves excellent and cheap Hania (€60; airport €70) and Elafonisi (€60).
Cretan food; try the kalitsounia (pastries filled
with cheese or wild greens) or Sfakianes pittes AROUND PALEOHORA
(pancakes) with honey. The village of Anydri, 5km northeast of Paleo-
hora is a popular destination for walkers and
Entertainment is reached via a picturesque drive through
La Jettee, behind the Villa Marise hotel, is right a gorge. The founding fathers of the village
on the beach and has a lovely garden, while were two brothers from Hora Sfakion fleeing
Skala by the port is an old-time classic bar. a murderous vendetta, which is why most
Most visitors to Paleohora spend at least villagers have the same surname.
one evening at the outdoor Cinema Attikon Many people walk a circuit route from Pale-
(tickets €7; hscreenings start 10pm). ohora to Andyri via the gorge to return along
Nostos Club (%28230 42145; h6pm-2am) has an the coast. Take the road that goes past the
outdoor terrace bar and a small indoor club camp sites ground and follow the paved road
playing Greek and Western music. Paleohora that forks off to the left, which is bordered by
Club (%28230 42230; h11pm-late), next to the steep rocks. As you enter the village you’ll see
camp site, used to be popular for all-night, a sign directing you to the Anydri Gorge. After
full-moon parties but is now a less-appeal- a few hundred metres on a footpath you’ll see
ing swanky indoor club. There’s a shuttle bus an overgrown path on the left. Red markers
from the port. direct you to the gorge. Alternatively, you
can have a break in the village at the excellent
Getting There & Away Kafeneio To Scholio (%28230 83001), a converted
BOAT school, and take another path from there past
Boat schedules change year to year so check the Church of Agios Georgios which has 14th-
with travel agents. In summer there is a century frescoes.
daily morning ferry from Paleohora to Hora After walking along the dried-out riverbed,
Sfakion (€14, three hours), via Sougia (€7, 50 signs direct you to wide Gialiskari Beach at the
minutes), Agia Roumeli (€11, 1½ hours) and end of the gorge. The nicest stretch is the
Loutro (€13, 2½ hours). The same boat also sandy beach with coarse sand at the eastern
HANIA 106 S O U T H E R N C OA S T • • G a v d o s lonelyplanet.com

PALEOHORA–SOUGIA COASTAL WALK

From the town centre of Paleohora, follow signs to the camp sites to the northeast. Turn right
at the intersection with the road to Anydri and soon you’ll be following the coastal path marked
as the E4 European Footpath. After a couple of kilometres, the path climbs steeply for a beauti-
ful view back to Paleohora. You’ll pass Anydri Beach and several inviting coves where people
may be getting an all-over tan. Take a dip because the path soon turns inland to pass over
Cape Flomes. You’ll walk along a plateau carpeted with brush that leads towards the coast and
some breathtaking views over the Libyan Sea. Soon you’ll reach the Minoan site of Lissos (see
p102). After Lissos the path takes you through a pine forest. The road ends at Sougia Harbour.
The 14.5km walk (allow about six hours) is nearly shadeless so take several litres of water and
sunscreen. From June through August, it’s best to start at sunrise in order to get to Sougia
before the heat of the day.

end, left of the kantina. You can take a differ- then known as Clauda, belonged to the city of
ent path back to Paleohora following the E4 Gortyna. There was a Roman settlement on
markers, which will take you along the coastal the northwestern corner. Under the Byzan-
cliffs. The beach is accessible by a driveable tines, Gavdos was the seat of a bishopric, but
dirt road, where it is signposted to the right when the Arabs conquered Crete in the 9th
well before the gorge. century the island became a pirates’ nest.
Until the late 1960s Gavdos had little water
GAVDOS ΓΑΥΔΟΣ and no electricity or phones, and most resi-
pop 81 dents emigrated to Paleohora or other parts
Gavdos (gav-dos) is as much a state of mind of Crete or Athens. While water is now plenti-
as it is an island. If you want to get away from ful, there can still be electricity shortages and
it all, there is no better place for peace and blackouts (particularly in summer) as only
isolation. Gavdos attracts a loyal following of part of the island has grid power – the rest
campers, nudists and free spirits seeking natu- use generators which are often turned off at
ral beaches, long walks and laid-back holidays. night and in the middle of the day. It is wise
This is the place for chilling out, letting your to take a torch. Strong winds can leave visitors
beard grow, rolling cigarettes and spending stranded for days on end, but you won’t find
the nights looking at the starry skies. too many people complaining.
Located under Crete in the Libyan sea,
65km from Paleohora, it is the most southerly Orientation & Information
place in Europe. Geographically it’s more akin The island’s port is Karabe on the east side
to Africa than Europe and enjoys a very mild of the island, while the capital Kastri is in the
climate. You can swim as early as February. centre. There is no bank but you can send
Gavdos is surprisingly green, with almost 65% mail in Sarakiniko. There are a couple of mini-
of the island covered in low-lying pine and markets for basic supplies and a medical clinic
cedar trees and vegetation, although it has a at Kastri. Mobile coverage is patchy but card
rugged natural landscape. There are several phones are available. Gavdos has a short sea-
stunning beaches, some of which are acces- son, as most tavernas and rooms shut by early
sible only by foot or boat. Most of the beaches September when schools start.
are on the northeastern coast, as the southern Gavdos has a new port and a police station
coastline is all cliffs. (%228230 41109) at Karabe.
Gavdos has three main ‘villages’, which are
virtually abandoned and full of ruins, and Sights & Activities
one beach settlement that gets relatively lively The biggest beach community is at Sarakinikos,
in July and August. At its tourist peak, the in the northeast, which has a wide swathe of
island’s permanent population of about 55 sand and several tavernas, as well as an am-
residents may swell to 1000. phitheatre for occasional performances. The
Archaeological excavations indicate the stunning Agios Ioannis beach, on the northern
island was inhabited as far back as the Neo- tip, has a scraggly summer settlement of nud-
lithic period. In the Greco-Roman era Gavdos, ists and campers, though numbers swell in
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N HA N I A • • R o d o p o u Pe n i n s u l a 107

summer. There are some wonderful beaches fisherman and his wife Gerti, serves Manolis’

HANIA
on the northern coast such as Potamos and fresh catch daily. It has rooms with sea views,
Pyrgos, which you can reach by foot (about an fridge and air-con (24-hour power) and stone
hour) from Kastri if you follow the footpath studios nearby with pine furniture and basic
leading north to Ambelos and beyond. Three kitchen facilities that sleep four. It also rents
giant arches carved into the rocky headland at cars and bikes.
Tripiti – the southernmost tip of Europe – are Theophilos taverna (%28230 41311), above
the island’s best-known natural feature. The Agios Ioannis beach, has excellent trays of
beach is reached by boat or on foot (a 1¼- mayirefta catering to the campers coming up
hour walk from Vatsiana). from the beach.
The restored 1880 lighthouse on the road to
the village of Ambelos has a museum and café. Getting There & Around
Before it was bombed by the Germans in 1941 Services to Gavdos vary throughout the
it was the world’s second-brightest lighthouse year and can take between 2½ to five hours
after Tierra del Fuego. depending on the boat and other stops, so
In Vatsiana, the island’s priest has created a it can be confusing. The most direct route
small private museum (%28230 42167; h10am-6pm to Gavdos is from Hora Sfakion, which has
Jul-Aug, knock next door at other times) in an old stone services to Gavdos on Friday, Saturday and
house with items collected from the island, in- Sunday (€15, 1½ hours). There are also two
cluding agricultural and domestic tools, a loom boats per week from Paleohora, increasing to
and weavings. There is a small working trad- three from mid-July to August, though they
itional wood oven next door and the priest’s go via the southern ports and Hora Sfakion,
wife, Maria, runs the quaint attached kafeneio, making it a long five-hour trip. There is also
where you can try her ouzo and cake. a Tuesday morning post boat from Paleohora
Despite the meagre population, there are 16 (via Sougia).
small churches dotted around the island. Most Only some ferries takes cars so check if you
boat owners offer full- and half-day cruises, plan on taking one across.
including trips to the remote, uninhabited You can rent a bike or car at the port or in
island of Gavdopoula, although there are no Sarakiniko, though be wary that they may not
good beaches there. Ask at the tavernas. have insurance.

Sleeping & Eating

It used to be considered upmarket if you had
power in Gavdos but a swathe of new ac-
WESTERN HANIA
commodation options has since sprung up, Western Crete is less affected by tourism than
including some flashier places. Free camping the rest of Hania. The northern coast is de-
is popular. The tavernas all offer fairly good fined by the virtually uninhabited Gramvousa
value. and Rodopou Peninsulas. Kolymbari, at the
Nychterida Taverna & Rooms (%28230 42120; d foot of the Rodopou Peninsula, is the most
€20-50) has basic but comfortable rooms on developed tourist town.
Sarakinikos beach. The Kissamos province is a rugged region
Akrogiali Taverna & Rooms (%28230 42384; d/tr of scattered villages and towns that attracts
€35/40), on Korfos beach, offers fresh local fish few tourists. Its capital, Kissamos-Kastelli, is
and its own goat meat for hearty Cretan cook- the port for boats from the Peloponnese. The
ing. The simple rooms have a fridge and a fan west coast has two of Crete’s finest beaches,
and overlook the beach. both of which are surprisingly underdevel-
Sarakiniko Studios (%28230 42182; www.gavdo oped: Falasarna in the northern corner and
studios.gr; d/tr studio incl breakfast €50/60), above Sa- Elafonisi in the southern corner. The Selino
rakiniko beach, has comfortable studios and Province includes the Innahorion region of
new villas sleeping up to five (€80 to €100). small mountain villages.
You can be picked up at the port or it is a
20-minute walk north. A camp site was set to RODOPOU PENINSULA
begin operating nearby in 2008. The barren, rocky Rodopou Peninsula has
Taverna Sarakiniko (%/fax 28230 41103; gavdos@cha a few small villages clustered at its base but
.forthnet.gr; r/studio €60/85; a), run by Manolis the the rest is uninhabited. A paved road goes as
 108 W E S T E R N HA N I A • • R o d o p o u Pe n i n s u l a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

far as Afrata, but then becomes a dirt track Diktina (%28240 22611; top fish per kg €47) This
HANIA

that meanders through the peninsula. If you place has had an upmarket facelift and looks
are travelling by foot, jeep or motorcycle you more like a city restaurant than a fish taverna
can reach the Diktynna sanctuary at the end but it has sea views and a range of reliable
of the peninsula, but make sure you have fish dishes.
planned your journey and are well supplied Milos tou Tzerani (%28240 22210) This café/bar
since there is not a drop of petrol or water, in a restored mill on the sea is a great place
nor a morsel of food, beyond Afrata. From for a coffee or an evening drink and also has
Afrata a road winds down to the small, grav- light snacks and mezedes.
elly pebbly Afrata Beach, which also supports Also recommended is Palio Arhondiko
a small seasonal snack bar. (%28240 22124) on the beach.

Kolymbari Κολυμπάρι GETTING THERE & AWAY

pop 919 Buses from Hania to Kissamos-Kastelli stop at
Kolymbari, 23km west of Hania, is at the Kolymbari (€2.80, 40 minutes, half-hourly).
base of the Rodopou Peninsula, and appeals
to those seeking a quiet, relaxing holiday. Moni Gonias Μονη Γονιασ
Development of the fishing hamlet is in its Founded in 1618, Moni Gonias (%28240 22313;
embryonic stage, but that is changing fast as Kolymbari; admission free, museum €2; h8am-12.30pm
hotels and domatia arise to take advantage of & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 4-8pm Sat, 7am-noon & 4-8pm Sun) was
the long pebbly beach. Kolymbari is a good damaged by the Turks in 1645, but rebuilt
base for a walk to Moni Gonias (right) and an in 1662 and extended in the 19th century.
excellent place to sample local fish at one of The monastery houses a unique collection of
the well-regarded fish tavernas. icons dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The bus from Hania drops you off on the Some are in the church while others are in the
main road, from which it is a 500m walk down monastery’s two-room museum. The most
to the settlement. There is an ATM on the valuable icon is that of Agios Nikolaos, painted
main street and a post office in the centre of in 1637 by Palaiokapas (in the museum on
the village. your left). It perfectly exemplifies the Cretan
school of icon painting that flourished in the
SLEEPING & EATING 17th century. The monastery, which also in-
Rooms Lefka (%28240 22211; fax 28240 22211; s/d/tr corporates Crete’s Theological College, is easy
€25/35/45; a) On the way into town from to reach from Kolymbari. Take the beach road
the bus stop you will see this decent budget north from the town centre for about 500m.
place on the right. Rooms are older-style but
comfortable, with a fridge and rather wacky Diktynna Δικτυνα
showers nozzles in the basin. They are well set On the tip of the Rodopou Peninsula are the
up for families, and the taverna downstairs remains of a temple to the Cretan goddess
serves up good, honest Cretan food and a Diktynna, which was the most important
hearty breakfast (€6). religious sanctuary in the region under the
Aeolos Apartments (%28240 22203; studio/apt Romans. Diktynna was the goddess of hunt-
€45/60; a) Signposted to the left off the main ing and she was worshipped fervently in
road, this dated but well-maintained com- western Crete.
plex on the hill has big balconies with sea Legend has it that her name derives from
views and flower beds. Breezy studios and the word diktyon, which means ‘net’. It was a
two-room apartments are spacious and com- fisherman’s net that saved her when she leapt
fortable, with carved timber beds, TV and into the sea to avoid the amorous desires of
kitchenettes with bar stools. King Minos. The temple dates from the 2nd
Argentina (%28240 22243; fish per kg €30-48) Con- century AD but it was probably built on the
sidered one of the best fish tavernas in the site of an earlier temple.
area, the classic Argentina has tables on the After the collapse of the Roman Empire
main road and across the street overlook- the temple was desecrated but you can see the
ing the sea. It serves seafood dishes such as temple’s foundations and a sacrificial altar as
octopus with olives, quality fish and there is well as Roman cisterns. If you are ‘templed
a select wine list. out’ you can relax on a lovely sandy beach.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N HA N I A • • K i s s a m o s - K a s t e l l i 109

Diktynna is only accessible by dirt road from land. Vestiges of Roman buildings have been

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Kolymbari, but travel agencies in Hania (p84) unearthed, but most of the ancient city lies
offer boat excursions. beneath the modern town of Kissamos and
cannot be excavated. Kissamos gained inde-
KISSAMOS-KASTELLI pendence in the third century AD and then
ΚΊΣΣΑΜΟΣ-ΚΑΣΤΈΛΛΙ became a bishopric under the Byzantines.
pop 3969 It was occupied by the Saracens in the 9th
The largest town and capital of the Kissamos century and flourished under the Venetians.
province is Kissamos-Kastelli, usually referred Parts of the castle wall survive to the west of
to simply as Kissamos. The north coast port Tzanakaki square.
town is where the ferries arrive from the Pelo-
ponnese or Kythira. It’s a quiet town of mostly Orientation & Information
elderly residents that neither expects nor at- The port is 3km west of town. In summer a
tracts much tourism, but is worth more than bus meets the boats, otherwise a taxi costs
a passing glance. Many small family hotels around €5. The bus station is on the main
have sprouted in recent years and tourism square, Plateia Tzanakaki, and the main com-
seems to be on the rise. The huge Bay of Kis- mercial street, Skalidi, runs east from Plateia
samos has some fine pebble and sand beaches Tzanakaki. The post office is on the main
and the almost bucolic feel to the region is a through road, near Plateia Venizelou. There
welcome antidote to the bustling Crete further are a number of banks with ATMs along the
east. There’s a string of waterfront tavernas highway and Skalidi. It’s a 200m walk to reach
and bars lining the seafront promenade but the foreshore promenade.
the place only ever gets busy in August. Kis- Kissamos has a reasonably informative
samos is good base for walking and touring website, www.kissamos.net. Horeftakis Tours
the area, with the Gramvousa Peninsula to the (%28220 23250; www.horeftakistours.com; Skalidi) is a
west and the Rodopou Peninsula to the east. good source of information. You can buy
Cruises to the Gramvousa Peninsula leave foreign press and books at Fountoulakis Book-
from Kissamos port. shop (%28220 22361) on Skalidi. Gamers Internet
Cafe (%28220 22112; Skalidi 17; h10am-late; €1.70 per
History hr) has the full service.
In antiquity, Kissamos was the main town
of the province of the same name. When the Sights & Activities
Venetians came along and built a castle here it The new Archaeological Museum of Kissamos
became known as Kastelli. The name persisted (%28220 83308; Plateia Tzanakaki; h8.30am-3pm; free
until 1966 when authorities decided that too admission), in an imposing two-level Venetian-
many people were confusing it with Crete’s Turkish building on the main square, has
other Kastelli, near Iraklio. The official name a well displayed collection of artefacts un-
reverted to Kissamos, though it is still often earthed during archaeological digs in the area,
called Kastelli or Kissamos-Kastelli. including statues, jewellery, coins and a large
Ancient Kissamos was a harbour for the mosaic floor from a Kissamos villa. There are
important city-state of Polyrrinia, 7km in- exhibits from Falasarna and Polyrrinia and

DETOUR: RAVDOUHA
The unassuming fishing hamlet of Ravdouha Beach, on the western side of the rugged Ro-
dopou Peninsula, is one of the area’s hidden gastronomic treats. Follow the signs to Ravdoucha
until you reach a fork in the road. To the left, a rough dirt road leads 700m to the Waves on
the Rock (%28240 23133) run by fisherman Theodoris Falelakis, who serves excellent fresh fish.
If you really feel like getting away from it all there are also five rooms (€25-30) upstairs with
kitchenette and air-con.
Turning right at the fork will lead you to a small pebbly beach with a pier and couple of
tavernas, including an incongruous Italian restaurant Don Rosario (%28240 23781; mains €9.50-
22.50) run by a retired Italian chef, who dishes up scrumptious pans of seafood spaghetti and
sophisticated Mediterranean cuisine on his shady terrace.
 110 W E S T E R N HA N I A • • K i s s a m o s - K a s t e l l i Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

most of the collections spans the Hellenistic- Eating

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Roman eras, though there are displays from Kellari (%28220 23883; Cretan specials €3-7.50) This
Minoan excavations and Nopigia. well-regarded taverna on the eastern end
Run by Stelios Milonakis and his British of the beach strip has an extensive range of
wife Angela, Strata Walking Tours (%28220 24336; Cretan dishes, grills and fresh fish as well as
www.stratatours.com) offers a range of walking a Greek-tasting menu for two (€16). Owned
tours for small groups, from leisurely day trips by the same family that runs Strata Walking
including taverna lunch in the surrounding Tours (p109), they use their own meat, wine,
countryside (€40) to full-on 15-day round oil and other produce.
trips (€895) reaching as far as the south coast. Papadakis(%28220 22340; mains €5-8) One of
They also run jeep safaris to interesting off- the oldest tavernas in town, this place is well
road destinations (€40). patronised by local diners. The taverna has a
very relaxing setting overlooking the beach
Sleeping and serves well-prepared fish dishes such as
Camping Mithymna (%28220 31444; www.campingmithy oven-baked fish (€6) or fish soup.
mna.gr; Paralia Drapania; per person/tent €6/4) About O Stimadoris (%28220 22057; fish per kg €30-45)
6km east of town, Camping Mithymna is an This well-respected fish taverna is about
excellent shady site near the best stretch of 2km west of town, just before the small fish-
beach with a restaurant, bar and shop. Take ing harbour. The owners are fishermen and
a bus to the village of Drapanias, from where therefore the fish is always fresh. Try an unu-
it’s a pleasant 15-minute walk through olive sual salad made of seaweed in vinegar, salata
groves to the camp sites (or walk 4km along tou yialou. The small taverna is like a mini-
the beach). museum while the room with sea views regu-
Bikakis Family (%28220 22105; www.familybikakis.gr; larly hosts weddings.
Iroön Polemiston 1941; s/d €20/25, studio €30; ai) This Also recommended for fine home cooking
would have to be the best budget option in Kis- and excellent value is Violaki (%28220 23068) on
samos town. The rooms and studios sparkle and the main through road and Akroyiali, well sign-
most have garden and sea views, kitchenettes posted before Kissamos, for excellent fresh
and extras such as TV, hairdryers and free in- fish on the beach.
ternet. It maintains a family environment and
owner Giannis makes guests feel very welcome. Getting There & Away
He is also an expert on herbal teas and the local BOAT
environs. There are bigger studios and adjoining ANEN Ferries operates the F/B Myrtidiotissa
rooms for families and breakfast is available. at weekends on a route that takes in An-
Thalassa (%28220 31231; www.thalassa-apts.gr; Par- tikythira (€9.40, two hours), Kythira (€16.40,
alia Drapanias; studios €35-55; ai) The isolated four hours), and Gythio (€22.10, five hours).
Thalassa complex is an ideal spot to retreat to Sunday’s service does serve Piraeus eventu-
with a stack of books. The immaculate studios ally but it’s far quicker to go from Hania.
are airy and well-fitted out with irons, hair- You can buy tickets from Horeftakis Tours
dryers and ADSL/wi-fi connections. There’s a (%28220 23250) and the ANEN Office (%28220
barbecue on the lawn and a small playground 22009; Skalidi).
and it’s just across from the beach, 100m east
of Camping Mithymna. BUS
Galini Beach (%28220 23288; r €38-48) At the From Kissamos’ bus station (%28220 22035), there
eastern end of the beach next to the soccer are 14 buses per day to Hania (€4, 40 min-
ground, this well-maintained, friendly, fam- utes), where you can change for Rethymno
ily-run hotel has spacious rooms decorated in and Iraklio; two buses per day for Falasarna
cool tones, some with kitchenette, as well as (€3, 20 minutes), one bus per day to Paleo-
adjoining family rooms. hora (€6.50, 1¼ hours) and one to Elafonisi
Christina Beach Hotel (%28220 83333; studio €60-80; (€5.90, 1¼ hours).
pai) This smart studio complex on the
west side of Kissamos represents the upper Getting Around
end of accommodation in town. Right on the Moto Fun (%28220 23440; www.motofun.info; Plateia
foreshore, the modern studios are large and Tzanakaki) Rents cars, bikes & mountain
airy and all have ISDN internet connection. bikes.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N HA N I A • • A r o u n d K i s s a m o s - K a s t e l l i 111

AROUND KISSAMOS-KASTELLI again to reach Kissamos if you are doing it

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Polyrrinia Πολυρρhνια the other way around). From the tiny hamlet
The ancient city ruins of Polyrrinia (pol-ee- of Sirikari, the entrance to the gorge is near
ren-ee-a) lie about 7km south of Kissamos- the Agios Apostoli church.
Kastelli, above the village of Ano Paleokastro An appealing new accommodation op-
(also called Polyrrinia). It’s a steep climb to tion if you are after somewhere remote, is
the ruins, but the sea and mountain views the Kastania Traditional Guest House (%28220
are stunning and the region is blanketed with 51449; Sirikari; d €40-60 with breakfast). The owner, a
wild flowers in spring. The city was founded retired air traffic controller, has restored the
by the Dorians in the 6th century BC and family home into four cosy traditional-style
was constantly at war with the Kydonians studios and makes a hearty breakfast (and can
from Hania. Coins from the period depict also provide good value home cooked meals).
the warrior-goddess Athena, who was evi- From here there are great walks through a
dently revered by the warlike Polyrrinians. verdant chestnut forest leading to Kambos.
Unlike their rivals the Kydonians, the
Polyrrinians did not resist the Roman inva- GRAMVOUSA PENINSULA
sion and thus the city was spared destruc- ΧΕΡΣΌΝΗΣΟΣ ΓΡΑΜΒΟΎΣΑ
tion. It was the best-fortified town in Crete Northwest of Kissamos is the beautifully wild
and the administrative centre of western and remote Gramvousa Peninsula, whose
Crete from the Roman through to the Byz- main attraction is the stunning lagoon-like
antine period. The Venetians used it as a sandy beach of Balos, on Cape Tigani on the
fortress. Many of the structures, including west side of the peninsula’s narrow tip. The
an aqueduct built by Hadrian, date from the idyllic beach with turquoise waters is over-
Roman period. looked by the two islets of Agria (wild) and
The most impressive feature of the site Imeri (tame), but day trippers can detract from
is the acropolis built by the Byzantines and its appeal.
Venetians. There’s also a church built on the The very rough but drivable dirt road (best
foundations of a Hellenistic temple from the in a four-wheel drive) to Balos begins at the
4th century BC. Near the aqueduct is a cave end of the main street of Kalyviani village and
dedicated to the nymphs; it still contains the follows the eastern slope of Mt Geroskinos.
niches for nymph statuettes. From here, the views over the shoreline and
It’s a scenic two-hour walk from Kis- the Rodopou Peninsula are spectacular.
samos-Kastelli to Polyrrinia. To reach the The road ends at a car park (with a kan-
Polyrrinia road, walk east along the Kis- tina) from where the path to the beach is a
samos-Kastelli main road and turn right 30-minute walk down the sandy cliffs (45
after the OTE (public phone company) minutes on the way back up).
office. You can reach the site through the West-bound buses from Kissamos will let
village on foot, passing by the interest- you off at the turn-off for Kalyviani, from
ing olive wood workshop (%28220 24168) of where it is a 2km walk to the beginning of
Giorgos Tsichlakis. the path at the far end of the main street. The
If you are driving, take the perimeter shadeless walk to Balos is around 3km – wear
road at the turn off for the Acropolis Taverna a hat and take plenty of water.
(%28220 23678) which has lovely views. Behind An easier way to get there are the three
the taverna there is a path to the left about daily cruises (%28220 24344; www.gramvousa.com;
100m before the Agios Pateras church which adult/concession cost €22/12; 55 mins). The morning
leads to the acropolis. You can do a full cir- boats stop at Imeri Gramvousa, which is
cuit around the hill to take in the views but crowned with a Venetian castle from which
the path can be overgrown. there are stunning views of the peninsula. It’s
There are no buses to the site. a steep 20-minute walk to the top and there
is a small beach below with a shipwreck. The
Sirikari Σηρικαρi beach gets crowded if the boats are full, as
From Polyrrinia, many intrepid walkers con- does Balos. Tickets can be bought on the day
tinue the hike to the Sirikari Gorge, one of the at Kissamos port. Departures are at 10am,
area’s most scenic and popular walks. The 10.15am and 1pm and returns at 5.45pm and
walk takes about two hours (and as much 8pm. The trip can be rough if it’s windy.
 112 W E S T E R N HA N I A • • Fa l a s a r n a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

History and is known for its stunning sunsets and

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The offshore island of Imeri Gramvousa was the pink hues reflecting from the fine coral
an important vantage point for the Venetians, in the sand.
who built a fortress here to protect ships on If you like solitude, Falasarna is your kind
their way to and from Venice. It was consid- of place – apart from the rush of activity from
ered an impregnable fort and had a large cache mid-July to mid-August. There is no village
of armaments. The Turks did not conquer nor facilities, just a scattering of widely spaced
Imeri Gramvousa along with the rest of Crete rooms and tavernas among the greenhouses
in 1645; the fort remained in Venetian hands. that somewhat mar the approach to the beach.
Eventually the Venetians left and the fort fell There is no organised ‘beach scene’, although
into disuse until it was taken over in 1821 by there is a beach bar in the centre and the om-
Cretan revolutionaries. It later became a no- nipresent beach umbrellas and lounges at dif-
torious base for piracy before the Turks took ferent locations. The big beach to the south is
it and used it to blockade the coast during the the livelier spot, with the middle rocky cove
War of Independence. Local legend has it that frequented by nudists, and there’s a quieter
the pirates amassed a fabulous fortune that smaller beach to the north.
they hid in caves around the island.
The Kalyviani shipwreck, rusting on the west History
side of Kalyviani beach, is a Lebanese-regis- Falasarna has been occupied at least since
tered ship that struck trouble on its way from the 6th century BC, but reached the height
Libya to Crete in 1981. of its power in the 4th century BC. Although
it was built next to the sea, the town’s ruins
Sleeping & Eating are about 400m away from the water because
A good base for touring this region is the vil- the western coast of Crete has risen over the
lage of Kalyviani, 7km west of Kissamos. centuries. The town owed its wealth to the
Kaliviani (%/fax 28220 23204; www.kaliviani.com; d agricultural produce from the fertile valley to
& tr €40-55; a) An attractive stone-built guest- the south. It was the west-coast harbour for
house with comfortable, tastefully furnished Polyrrinia but later became Polyrrinia’s chief
rooms with fridge and balcony. The excellent rival for dominance over western Crete. By
restaurant (mains €4.80-8.50) serves up the genu- the time of the Roman invasion of Crete in 67
ine article, whenever possible using organic BC, Falasarna had become a haven for pirates.
produce. Recommended is the gramvousiano Stone blocks excavated around the entrance to
yiahni – a tasty local goat stew (€7). the old harbour indicate that the Romans may
Olive Tree Apartments (%28220 24336; www.olive have tried to block off the harbour to prevent
tree.gr; apt €40-70; as) This attractive complex it from being used by pirates.
in an olive grove at the entrance to the village
has spacious, comfortable and well-presented Sights
apartments suitable for families and longer The ruins of the ancient city of Falasarna are
stays, as well as an inviting pool. the area’s main attraction, although not much
Gramvousa (%28220 22707; wood oven specials is visible. Signs direct you to the ancient city
€.5.50-8.70) In the centre of the village, Gram- from the main road, following a dirt road at
vousa serves fine traditional Cretan cuisine in the end of the asphalt.
an attractively decorated stone building set in First you’ll come to a large stone throne,
a superb garden. Try the wood oven specials the purpose of which is unknown. Further
such as the suckling pig or lamb with honey. on there are the remains of the wall that once
fortified the town and a small harbour. Notice
FALASARNA ΦΑΛΆΣΑΡΝΑ the holes carved into the wall, which were
pop 21 used to tie up boats. At the top of the hill there
Falasarna, 16km west of Kissamos, was a are the remains of the acropolis wall and a
Cretan city-state in the 4th century BC but temple as well as four clay baths.
there’s not much of the ancient city left to
see. It attracts a mixed bunch of travellers Sleeping & Eating
due to its long, wide stretch of sandy beach, Most accommodation is aimed at the inde-
which is considered one of the best in Crete. pendent traveller. The places on the beach are
It is split up into several coves by rocky spits unfortunately the least attractive. There are
lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N HA N I A • • I n n a h o r i o n 113

numerous places for free camping, although can take a circular route, returning via the

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like elsewhere it is officially frowned upon. coast road. Heading south from Kissamos
Rooms Anastasia-Stathis (%28220 41480; fax 28220 you’ll pass through some of the lushest and
41069; d/apt €40/50; a) The airy, attractively fur- most fertile parts of the island.
nished rooms with fridges and large balco- You’ll first come to the village of Voulgaro,
nies are perfect for stress relief, as the friendly which has two Byzantine churches. Three
owner Anastasia puts it. Her enormous break- kilometres further south is the lovely village
fasts (€6) are open to all comers and guests of Topolia with a cluster of whitewashed houses
can pick vegies from the garden. overhung with plants and vines.
Doma (%28220 41726; www.domaapts.gr; studio €44, After Topolia the road skirts the edge of the
apt €50-70) This attractive complex in a garden Koutsomatados Ravine, bending and twisting and
setting has tastefully furnished studios and affording dramatic views. Just before a nar-
one- or two-room apartments that are well row road tunnel there is a snack bar on the left,
equipped for longer stays. There are big bal- which is a good place to stop and take a photo
conies and extras such as hairdryers and TV, of the ravine. Shortly, you will come to the Agia
while some have full-size kitchens. Sofia cave, which contains evidence of settle-
Kavousi Resorts (%28220 41251; www.kavoussi ment from as far back as the Neolithic era. The
resorts.com; studio & apt €45-70 a) High above on the cave is often used for baptisms and celebrates
approach to Falasarna with sweeping views the patron saint’s day on 13 April. A third of
and spacious, comfortable new studios and the way up the 250 rock-cut steps to the cave,
apartments, though it’s only feasible if you the taverna Romantza has great views over the
have a car. ravine and is run by the colourful Manolis,
Rooms for Rent Panorama (%28220 41336; www who wears traditional Cretan dress. It’s a lovely
.falasarna.gr; d/tr €48/55 a) One of the first places drive to tiny Koutsomatados, followed by the vil-
you will come across, signposted to the left lage of Vlatos. Just south of Milia (see the boxed
along a gravel track, these refurbished studios text, p115) and back on the main highway
are spotless and comfortable, and have a fridge there is a turn-off for Paleohora via Strovles
or kitchenette. The well-run and friendly res- and Drys. While most maps suggest it is not
taurant with a great view of the beach serves a good road, it is actually paved and affords
up good Cretan cooking. much quicker access to Paleohora than the
Galasia Thea (%28220 41421; mayirefta €4.50-6) more obvious route via Tavronitis.
On the cliff overlooking the great expanse of Elos, the largest town and centre of the
beach, this café has spectacular views from chestnut trade, stages a chestnut festival on the
its huge terrace. There’s a big range of baked third Sunday of October. The plane, eucalyp-
dishes and mayirefta such as the Sfakiano tus and chestnut trees around the main square
lemon lamb. make Elos a cool and relaxing place to stop.
Also recommended is Sun Set (%28220 41204), Behind the taverna on the main square you’ll
a taverna for fish and classic Cretan food. see the remains of the aqueduct that once
brought water down from the mountains to
Getting There & Away power the mill.
From June through August there are three Continuing south, you’ll pass the atmos-
buses daily from Kissamos to Falasarna (€2.60) pheric village of Perivolia and then come to
as well as three buses from Hania (€6). Kefali, with its 14th-century frescoed church.
Kefali has a handful of tavernas taking ad-
INNAHORION ΙΝΝΑΧΟΡΙΟΝ vantage of the lovely setting and view. From
Innahorion is the highly scenic mountainous Kefali you can take either the road to Ela-
region south of Kissamos-Kastelli, which is fonisi or make a right turn and start the
renowned for its chestnut trees. It is often loop back along the picturesque west coast
referred to as ‘Ennia Horia’, meaning nine to your starting point. The coastal road from
villages, but there are actually more than nine Kefali winds around cliffs with magnificent
villages dotting the region. coastal views unfolding after every bend in
If you have your own transport you can the road. This is one of the most scenic drives
drive through the region en route to Moni in Crete.
Hrysoskalitissas and Elafonisi or, with a little Driving along the gorge you will first pass
backtracking, to Paleohora. Alternatively, you the little hamlet of Pappadiana then you’ll
 114 W E S T E R N HA N I A • • I n n a h o r i o n Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

start climbing through the mountains before In Vlatos you can visit the organic olive oil
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coming to Amygdalokefali, which has beauti- farm To Metohi Tou Monahogiou (%28220 51655)
ful sweeping sea views from a bluff outside which has tastings and attractive though
town. About 50 minutes from Kefali you’ll pricey accommodation (doubles, including
come to Kambos a tiny village on the edge of breakfast €90) in a restored stone farm house
a gorge. It makes a good overnight stop since in a lovely forest setting.
you can hike down the gorge to the beach, or Polakis Rooms (%28220 61260; Kefali; r €30) Simple
alternatively take a hike back to Kissamos via accommodation with great views and ceil-
a rough dirt track from Kambos. The trail, ing fans.
touted as an alternative to the better-known For dining in Kefali, try Elafos (%28220
E4 trail, is known as the F1 trail. 96614) or the shady terrace of Panorama
Continuing northwards from Kambos, (%28220 61208).
the road now circles around the other side of In Kambos, Sunset Rooms (%28220 41128; s/d
the gorge, eventually winding down to Sfinari €15/25) has great views over the valley in oth-
after a further 9km. The languid, laid-back erwise basic but pleasant-enough rooms. The
agricultural village stretches down to a size- attached Sunset Taverna (dishes €2 to €5) serves up
able beach, which is backed by a phalanx of grills and large salads.
greenhouses at the northern end but has a Hartzoulakis Rent Rooms (%28220 41445; mano
small gravelly cove, a basic camp site and a [email protected]; Kambos; s/d €20/25) Small and
few fine fish tavernas on the beach. basic but very clean, with large verandas. They
After Sfinari you’ll get more coastal views make a good base for walkers. The taverna on
before the road drops down to Platanos, a the terrace serves up good Cretan fare and
quiet, tree-lined and rather scattered village excellent raki.
of whitewashed houses. From here you can oClara’s (%28220 61537; Amigdalokefali;
detour left to Falasarna or keep to the right for www.cafeclara.com; d €25-50) Danish accountant
the downhill run back to Kissamos. Lena Troelso has created a delightful home
and hideaway just below the coastal road with
Sleeping & Eating breathtaking views. There’s a lovely stone cot-
Accommodation throughout the region con- tage with ensuite bathroom and two rustic
sists of rather scattered and largely under- rooms that share an outside bathroom, in-
utilised domatia. There are no large tourist cluding a shower in a former grape press. She
hotel complexes. bakes bread every day and can provide meals.
Panorama Taverna and Rooms (%28220 51163; Ask at the kantina on the main road or call
Katsomadatos; d €25) With a balcony overlooking her for directions.
the gorge, these simple, clean rooms make a Captain Fidias (%23220 41107; Sfinari Beach) One
great base for walks. There’s no air-con but of three fish tavernas on Sfinari beach, this
they are cool at night. Run by Manolis and his place is run by the amiable Fidias and his
Dutch wife Antonia, the taverna has a range four strapping fishermen sons. When they
of mayirefta and can make meals to order for run out they have been known to go home
guest on longer stays. and get the fish destined for their dinner out
Arhontas Taverna and Rooms (%28220 51531; of the fridge.
Katsomadatos; d €30) These are just below the main Andonis Theodorakis (%28220 41125; Sfinari;
road is a shady spot virtually in the gorge, mayirefta €4-7) Up on the main road to Platanos
surrounded by the owner’s fruit trees. The is Andonis’ taverna and adjacent rooms. Food
rooms are basic but functional and two have is all home-cooked, village style, and they
bathrooms added on to the balconies. serve local fresh fish. The chicken with okra
Kokolakis Rooms (%28220 61258; Elos; d €30) The is recommended. The simple homy rooms
only accommodation in Elos is above the (s/d €15/24) have lovely sea views.
Kastanofolia taverna, right on the main road O Zaharias (%28220 41285; Platanos; mayirefta €4-6)
by the stream that runs through the village. This pleasant and well-respected eatery just
The rooms are very basic and overpriced, off the main highway on the road to Falasarna
given that the bathrooms are shared. has traditional dishes such as avgokolokytho –
For a meal in Elos, try the friendly an egg dish made with zucchini, tomato
Kamares Taverna (%28220 61332; main €5.50-7) for and olive oil. The large Obelix and Asterix-
excellent mayirefta. inspired mural was painted by the owner.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N HA N I A • • M o n i H r y s o s k a l i t i s s a s 115

MONI HRYSOSKALITISSAS so much about ‘. At the southern extremity

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ΜΟΝΗ ΧΡΥΣΟΣΚΑΛΊΤΙΣΣΑΣ of Crete’s west coast, the beach is long, wide
Five kilometres north of Elafonisi, is this and is separated from the Elafonisi Islet by
beautiful monastery (%28220 61261; admission €2; about 50m of knee-deep water. The clear,
h7am-7pm) perched on a rock high above the shallow turquoise water and fine white sand
sea. Hrysoskalitissa (hris-os-ka-lee-tiss-as) create a tropical paradise. There are a few
means ‘golden staircase’. Some accounts sug- snack bars on the beach and stalls to rent
gest the top step of the 98 steps leading to the umbrellas and lounge chairs. The islet is
monastery was made of gold, but could only marked by low dunes and a string of semi-
be seen by the faithful. Another version says secluded coves that attract a sprinkling of
one of the steps was hollow and used to hide naturists. Unfortunately this idyllic scene
the church’s treasury. In any case, during the can be spoilt by the busloads of day-trippers
Turkish occupation the gold, along with much who descend in summer. There is some ac-
of the monastery’s estate, was used to pay commodation nearby for those who want
hefty taxes imposed by the Ottoman rulers. to luxuriate in the quiet that descends in
The church is recent but the monastery is late afternoon, and several more options
allegedly a thousand years old and may have around Hrysoskalitissa.
been built on the site of a Minoan temple.
The monastery has created two small ru- Sleeping & Eating
dimentary museums on site, a folk museum Rooms Panorama (% 28220 61548; s/d studio
with a selection of weavings and objects from €20/25) This place has a taverna overlook-
rural life and an ecclesiastical museum with ing the sea from its commanding position
mostly icons and manuscripts. Buses to Ela- on a bluff. Rooms have a kitchenette and
fonisi drop passengers here. fridge, but many are rented by the month to
There are a handful of tavernas and ac- itinerant workers.
commodation options nearby, which is an Rooms Elafonisi (%28250 61274, fax 28250 97907; s/d
alternative base for Elafonisi. Glykeria (%28220 €30/35; a) The 21 spacious rooms here have
61292; www.glykeria.com; d €50 with breakfast; as) is a fridges, and there are nicely furnished bigger
small and friendly family-run hotel with neat rooms out the back among the olive groves,
and simple rooms with fridges and balconies as well as apartments with kitchens. The out-
overlooking the sea, as well as an inviting pool door patio has views and there’s an attached
and a taverna across the road. It’s on the main restaurant.
road before the monastery. Innahorion (%28250 61111; d/tr €30/35; a)
About 2.5km before the coast at Elafonisi,
ELAFONISI ΕΛΑΦΟΝΉΣΙ this restaurant is the best in the area, serving
pop 12 good Cretan food on the terrace. The accom-
As one of the loveliest sand beaches in Crete, modation is perhaps the least attractive of the
it’s easy to understand why people enthuse three options, however. The 15 rooms each

MILIA VILLAGE
One of Crete’s ecotourism trailblazers is the isolated mountain settlement of Milia (%28220
51569; www.milia.gr; cottages incl breakfast €50-65-70). Inspired by a back to nature philosophy, sixteen
abandoned stone farmhouses were restored into eco-cottages with only solar energy for basic
needs (leave the laptop and hairdryer at home). The cottages have antique beds and rustic
furnishing.
Milia is one of the most atmospheric and peaceful places to stay on the island, but it is also
worth a visit just to dine at the superb taverna, which uses organic produce from its farm, includ-
ing their own oil, wine, milk, cheese and free-range chickens, goats and sheep. Try the boureki,
the stuffed rabbit with myzithra or yogurt, or pork with lemon leaves baked slowly overnight.
We loved the winter favourite – potatoes, chestnuts and baby onions in red wine sauce. There
is no Coke or anything processed.
There is a signposted turn-off on the right after the village of Vlatos. The rather narrow access
road becomes a drivable 3km dirt road.
 116 E A S T E R N HA N I A • • G e o r g i o u p o l i s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

have a fridge and kitchenette, but are set back beach that continues for about 10km towards
HANIA

a fair way from the beach. Rethymno.

Georgioupolis was named after Prince
Getting There & Away George, High Commissioner of Crete from
There is one boat daily from Paleohora to 1898 to 1906, who had a hunting lodge there.
Elafonisi (€4.50, one hour) from mid-June During classical times it was known as Am-
through September, which leaves at 10am phimalla and was the port of ancient Lappa.
and returns at 4pm. There are also two buses It is a handy base from which to explore
daily from Hania (€8, 2¼ hours) and Kis- Hania and Rethymno.
samos (€3.40, 1½ hours), which return in the
afternoon. Orientation & Information
The main street from the highway leads to
the town centre, where there are a number
EASTERN HANIA of travel agencies, tavernas and ATMs. Ballos
Travel (%28250 83088; www.ballos@gr) can organise
The northeastern corner of Hania prefecture boat tickets, excursions and accommodation,
contains some interesting sights, including and also changes money, rents out cars and
the island’s only natural freshwater lake, Lake arranges money transfers. It also sell stamps –
Kournas, and beach resorts such as Kalyves, the town post box is outside. Planet Internet Cafe
Almyrida and Georgioupolis, which retain (%28250 61732; www.alchemist.gr; per hr €3; h9am-late)
more of a village feel than the resorts spread is near the square. There is accommodation
along the coast west of Hania. There are also and other information on www.georgioupoli
the restored village of Vamos and the ancient .net.
site of Aptera, as well as traditional villages
such as Gavalohori. Increased package tour- Sights & Activities
ism is changing the nature of the Apokoronas Yellowboat (per person per hr €6) rents pedalboats
peninsula, as is the real estate construction and canoes to go up the river.
frenzy for holiday homes for foreigners. If you don’t have wheels, a tourist train (€6)
runs trips to nearby Kournas Lake and Ar-
GEORGIOUPOLIS ΓΕΩΓΙΟΎΠΟΛΗ giroupoli. Zoraida’s Horseriding (%28250 61745;
pop 489 www.zoraidas-horseriding.com) runs various trail
No longer the quiet getaway that it once was, rides around the area, including beach rides
Georgioupolis has been swamped by coastal (€30) and special rides for children. Adventure
hotel development. Popular with families Bikes (%28250 61830; www.adventurebikes.org) rents
and nature lovers, it still retains some of the bikes and runs bike tours around the region
ambience of a languid seaside tourist town. (€35-56).
The town’s most distinctive features are the
eucalyptus trees lining the streets that fan out Sleeping
from the main square and the picturesque Most of the big hotels on the beach are aimed
small chapel of Agios Nikolaos, jutting from at package tourists.
a narrow rocky jetty in the sea. Andy’s Rooms (%28250 61394; d €29.50; studio €25-
Located at the junction of the Almyros 63; a) To the right of the main road opposite
River and the sea, Georgioupolis is a nesting the church are these good-value large rooms
area for the endangered loggerhead sea tur- with marble floor, mosquito screens, kitchen-
tle. The marshes surrounding the riverbed are ette, TV, ceiling fan and a big balcony. There
known for their bird life, especially the egrets are also larger apartments for families.
and kingfishers that migrate into the area in Porto Kalyvaki (%/fax 28250 61316; d €30-35;
April, as well as the hordes of mosquitoes in as) Located behind a taverna on the more
summer. The river spills its icy water near the isolated northern beach, Kalyvaki has a mix of
smaller beach to the north of the port, where rather plain studios spread across two build-
another small church, Agios Kyriakos, stands ings, and some quirky reconstructions of the
at the far end of the cove. Acropolis and other monuments scattered
The long narrow stretch of hard-packed around the grounds.
sand east of town, spliced by another river Egeon (%28250 61161; fax 28250 61171; studio €40;
leading into the sea, becomes a long sandy a) Near the bridge, these pleasant rooms
lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N HA N I A • • L a k e K o u r n a s 117

are run by friendly Greek-American Polly and LAKE KOURNAS ΛΊΜΝΗ ΚΟΥΡΝΆΣ

HANIA
her fisherman husband, whose nets you may Lake Kournas, 4km inland from Georgioupo-
see laid out in the foyer. They’ve upgraded the lis, is a lovely, restful place to have lunch or to
furniture and installed screens on the win- pass an afternoon. The island’s only natural
dows, while some have kitchenettes, shower lake, it is about 1.5km in diameter, 45m deep
curtains and TV. and is fed by underground springs. There’s a
Nicolas Hotel (%28250 61375; nicolashotel@yahoo narrow sandy strip around the lake and you
.gr; d incl breakfast €55; a) On the main road en- can walk two-thirds of the way around. The
tering the village, this place has doubles at- crystal-clear water is great for swimming and
tractively furnished in pine with a safe and changes colour according to the season and
home-cooked breakfast. time of day. You can rent pedalboats and canoes
Apartments Sofia (%28250 61325; www.river-side (per hr €4) and view the turtles, crabs, fish
.gr; studios d/q €50/60; a) This salmon-coloured and snakes that make the lake their home,
building has balconies overlooking the sea although tourist buses can crowd the lake in
and well-equipped rooms with kitchenette, the peak of summer.
CD player and hairdryer. There are a number of tavernas around the
lake, but few of the older rent rooms above
Eating the tavernas were operating. The shady To
Poseidon Taverna (%28250 61026; fish per kg €30- Mati tis Limnis (%28250 61695; mains €5.50-7) on
50) Signposted down a narrow alley to the the quieter end of the lake makes good tra-
left as you come into the village, this well- ditional dishes such as rabbit stifado (braised
regarded place is run by a fishing family. You with onions) or filling mizythropites (cheese
can choose from the fish and seafood laid pies).
out on the counter and enjoy an excellent You could also try Omorfi Limni (%28250
meal under the mulberry trees in the lovely 61665) which dominates the other end of the
courtyard. restaurant strip, or stop for a drink and enjoy
Arolithos (%28250 61406; Greek specials €5.50-7.70) the stunning views of the lake and sea from
Near Andy’s Rooms, Arolithos has an exten- up high at the oddly American Indian-themed
sive selection of appetisers, traditional Greek Empire Cafe (%28250 83008).
dishes such as spetsofai (sausage and pepper The lake is below Kournas Village, a steep
stew), and some creative offerings such as the 5km up a hill. Kournas is a traditional village
grilled chicken with orange sauce. of white-washed houses, a few stone homes
A good choice for fish is Fanis (%28250 61374; and a couple of kafeneia. You can get a deli-
€ 35-58; seafood dishes €5.50-8.50), on the riverbank, cious meal at the Kali Kardia Taverna (%28250
which also serves reasonable Cretan cuisine 96278; grills €5) on the main street. Owner Kostas
and meat dishes. Agapinakis is known for his award-winning
For traditional home-style cooking you sausages, excellent apaki (smoked pork) and
could also try Zorba’s and Konaki, while the meats cooked on the grill outside the taverna.
unassuming Plateia does some decent grills. If you are lucky you might get to try his deli-
cious galaktoboureko (custard pastry) while
Entertainment it is still warm.
There’s not much of a bar scene in Geor- As you enter the village there is an excellent
gioupolis, though the new Tropicana Club, ceramics shop (%28250 96434; h9am-8.30pm) run by
a massive two-level beach hut, was hoping friendly Kostas Tsakalakis, who uses local clay
to liven things up. Titos is the liveliest bar on and special lead-free glazes. There is a huge
the main square. range and the prices are very reasonable.
The sprawling Edem park complex on the A tourist mini-train runs from Georgioup-
beach has a large pool open to the public. It olis to Lake Kournas in the summer, but no
presents live Cretan music occasionally in public transport.
the summer, as do some of the hotels and
tavernas in town. KALYVES ΚΑΛΎΒΕΣ
pop 1408
Getting There & Away Located 18km east of Hania on Souda Bay,
Buses between Hania and Rethymno stop on Kalyves was once predominantly a farming
the highway outside Georgioupolis. village, but has now become a built up resort –
 118 E A S T E R N HA N I A • • A l m y r i d a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

the biggest on the Apokoronas peninsula. It the remains of an early Christian basilica at the
HANIA

has morphed into a largely British and for- western end of the village.
eign enclave, thanks to the holiday home real One road through the village runs along
estate boom in the area. The town is boasts a the beach. There’s an ATM and you can
long sandy beach and retains a fairly low-key check mail at Internet Services (h11am-9pm).
village ambience. Flisvos Tours (%/fax 28250 31100; h8am-1.30pm &
Kalyves has a post office and an ATM on 5-9.30pm), just off the main road, rents out cars,
the main road. You can rent cars and bikes scooters and mountain bikes. The French-
from Flisvos (% 28250 31337; www.flisvos.com; run UCPA Sports (%28250 31443; www.ucpa.com),
h8.30am-1.30pm & 5.30-10pm). Floppy Cafe (h8am- runs windsurfing (€8 per hour) and rents
10pm; per hr €3) has high speed access, webcam catamarans & kayaks. Dream Adventure Trips
and ice-cream. (%6944 357 383) offers speedboat swimming
and snorkelling trips to nearby caves, coves
Sleeping & Eating and Marathi beach (€15).
Most of the private domatia are clustered at
the western end of the village. Sleeping & Eating
Thamiris (%28250 31637; www.thamiris.georgioupoli Almyrida Beach Hotel (%28250 32284; www.almyrida
.net; studio/apt €25-60; a) This friendly place just beach.com; s & d incl breakfast €90-130; as) This
before the bridge has a range of well-main- hotel has two main hotel complexes across
tained comfortable rooms and fully equipped from the beach with a pool, including an in-
studios in two complexes, as well as two at- congruous white and grey modern wing with
tractive and more secluded studios right on a range of rooms and suites (from €120).
the beach next to Piperia taverna. There’s a Rooms Marilena (%28250 32202; d €25) This
daily cleaning service. place seems to be more popular with itiner-
Maria (%28250 31748; r €35; a) Maria has ant workers than the windsurfing fraternity
small rooms with kitchenette and sea views. these days, but has some smallish but decent
Look out for the giant swan opposite the budget rooms with ceiling fan, fridge and
supermarket as you head into town. cooking ring upon request. It’s behind the
Piperia (%28250 31245; mains €6.50-7) Right on windsurf station.
the beach just before town, this is one of the Psaros (%28250 31401; mains €6-10) Well located
best restaurants in Kalyves, with a great selec- right on the far end of the beach, with classic
tion of Cretan specials and seafood. The menu blue and white chequered island décor, Psaros
includes dishes made from organic produce has fresh fish and friendly staff. Also recom-
and oil, including an exceptional organic mended are Lagos (%28250 31654) at the en-
Greek salad. trance to the town for good value traditional
You could also try the well-regarded Prov- cooking in a lovely shaded terrace, and Dim-
lita on the waterfront and Gialos at the other itri’s (%28250 31303) family tavern for friendly
end of the beach. In the centre of Kalyves visit service and produce from their farm.
the Old Bakery for scrumptious cakes and
homemade breads and biscuits. PLAKA ΠΛΆΚΑ
pop 279
Getting There & Away The village of Plaka, a pretty drive up from
There are seven buses daily (€2.10, 20 mins) Almyrida, is unfortunately being swamped by
to Kalyves from Hania. a frenzy of development and look-alike holi-
day houses. Still, off the coast and around the
ALMYRIDA ΑΛΜΥΡΊΔΑ main square (shaded by eucalyptus trees), the
pop 119 winding lanes and low-rise white buildings
The former fishing village of Almyrida, l4km seem a world away from the tourist bustle.
east of Kalyves, is considerably less developed The town also has a few tavernas with lovely
than its neighbour, although it’s getting more views down to the sea.
so. Still, it’s a reasonable spot to hang out for Eva Papadomanolakos, the owner of Studios
a few days and is probably a better option for Koukourou (%28250 31145; fax 28250 31879; studio €35;
independent travellers than Kalyves. Almyrida a), has gone to a lot of trouble to create a
is popular for windsurfing because of its long, homy Cretan atmosphere for her guests and
exposed beach. History buffs can check out has decorated her place with tropical plants
lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N HA N I A • • A p t e r a 119

and flowers. There’s also a roof garden with

HANIA
panoramic views over the coast. The rooms DETOUR: KOUMOS
are very clean and have kitchenettes. It’s well One of the more quirky attractions of the
signposted as you enter town. Apokoronas area is Koumos (%28250 32256;
h10am-late) the huge stone fantasy of local
APTERA ΑΠΤΕΡΑ builder Yiorgos Havaledakis. He has spent
The ruins of the ancient city of Aptera (h8am- years collecting a hotchpotch of stones,
3pm Tue-Sun), about 3km west of Kalyves, are pebbles and rocks of every shape colour
spread out over two hills that loom over Souda and size from the surrounding mountains
Bay. Founded in the 7th century BC, Aptera to create this bizarre sprawling open-air
was one of the most important city-states of taverna and kafeneio. The grounds include
western Crete and was continuously inhabited a stone church, bridges, arches, sculptures,
until an earthquake destroyed it in the 7th light poles – even the toilet block shows off
century AD. his unique rock art.
It came back to life with the Byzantine
reconquest of Crete in the 10th century, and
became a bishopric. In the 12th century, the tors could taste regional products. This op-
monastery of St John the Theologian was es- eration has expanded and now dominates
tablished; the reconstructed monastery is the the village, which is nonetheless a pleasant
centre of the site. stop or base for exploring the region. While
The site is still being excavated. Diggers the authentic village theme is a overrated, it
recently exposed the remains of a fortified is one of the better examples of this style of
tower, a city gate and a massive wall that sur- alternative tourism.
rounded the city. You can also see Roman In late March or early April, Vamos cel-
cisterns and a 2nd century BC Greek temple. ebrates Hohliovradia (Snail Night) with a festi-
At the western end there’s a Turkish fortress, val of cooked snails, washed down with wine
which was built in 1872 and enjoys a pano- and raki.
ramic view of Souda Bay. The fortress was The Vamos Tourist office (%/fax 28250 23251;
built as part of a large Turkish fortress-build- www.vamossa.gr; h9am-9pm in summer) rents cars,
ing programme during a period when the books excursions and runs regular Cretan
Cretans were in an almost constant state of cooking lessons in a restored olive press. It
insurrection. Notice the ‘Wall of the Inscrip- arranges accommodation in a range of Trad-
tions’ – this was probably part of an important itional Guesthouses (cottage €75-120). The lovely
public building and was excavated in 1862 by restored stone cottages have kitchens, fire-
French archaeologists. The Greek Ministry places and TVs and are decorated in trad-
of Culture is continuing to restore the site, itional style. Most accommodate up to four
installing signs and paths. people, but there are larger cottages including
There’s no public transport to Aptera. some with a pool.
The old stone taverna I Sterna tou Bloumosifi
VAMOS ΒΆΜΟΣ (%28250 22932; mains €5-9.80) has a pleasant
pop 643 courtyard garden and is widely known for
The 12th-century village of Vamos, 26km its excellent Cretan cuisine. For starters try
southeast of Hania, was the capital of the the gavro (mild anchovy) wrapped in vine
Sfakia province from 1867 to 1913 and was leaves, or the garlic and herb mushrooms,
the scene of a revolt against Turkish rule in and then move on to the hilopita (tagliatelle)
1896. It is now the capital of the Apokoronas with rooster.
province. In 1995 a group of villagers banded The other place to hang out is the under-
together to preserve the traditional way of life stated Liakoto (%28250 23251) café-bar-cum-art-
of Vamos. They persuaded the EU to fund a gallery which has a lovely terrace overlooking
project to showcase the crafts and products of the mountains and sea. Next door, you can
the region and develop a new kind of tourism buy local raki, herbs, organic oil and other
for Crete. They restored the old stone build- Cretan products at the Myrovolo Wine Store &
ings of the village using traditional materials General Store (%28250 22996).
and crafts and turned them into guesthouses, There are six daily buses to Vamos from
and they opened shops and cafés where visi- Hania (€2.80, 45 minutes).
 © Lonely Planet Publications
120 E A S T E R N HA N I A • • A r o u n d Va m o s lonelyplanet.com

AROUND VAMOS VRYSES ΒΡΎΣΕΣ

HANIA

The village of Gavalohori, 25km southeast pop 848

of Hania, makes a pleasant stop. The main Most travellers just pass through Vryses,
attraction is the Folklore Museum (%28250 30km southeast of Hania, on their way to or
23222; admission €2; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm from the south coast, but this pleasant and
Sun), which is located in a renovated building sizeable village makes a good lunch-time in-
that was constructed during Venetian rule and terlude. The rivers Voutakas and Vrysanos
then extended by the Turks. The exhibits are run through the centre of the village watering
well labelled in English and include examples the giant plane trees along the banks, where
of pottery, weaving, woodcarving, stonecut- you can cool off in one of the shady tavernas.
ting and other Cretan crafts, including the Vryses is a market centre for the region’s ag-
fine kapaneli – intricately worked silk lace. A ricultural products. Many locals stop here for
historical section documents Cretan struggles yogurt and honey, a speciality of the town.
for independence. The village centre is marked by a monument
Signs direct you to the Byzantine wells, Vene- commemorating Cretan independence.
tian arches and Roman tombs about 1.5km above You will be tempted by the lamb or other
the village. tasty meat grilling on the spit outside Taverna
The Women’s Cooperative (%/fax 28250 22038; Progoulis (%28250 51086; grills €4.50-6), which has
h 10am-10pm Apr-Oct), on the main square, tables under the trees.
sells a few rare pieces of kapaneli (lacework) Near the crossroads in the town centre
made by local women. You can normally the modest Vryses Way (%28250 51705) serves
see women hard at work on this painstak- excellent gyros, Sfakianes pittes (traditional
ingly long process. Prices for quality lace- pancakes) and yogurt with honey.
work range from €15 to €1500, depending Buses from Hania to Hora Sfakion stop at
on the size. Vryses (€3.50, 30 minutes).

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
121

Rethymno Ρεθυμνο
Rethymno is Crete’s most compact and mountainous prefecture, boasting the island’s high-
est peak, Mt Psiloritis, in the east. Its central position makes it a good base for seeing the
island’s key sights and gives you a broad taste of what Crete has to offer. While it lacks the
big draw cards of neighbouring Hania and Iraklio, Rethymno in not short of attractions.

RETHYMNO
Rethymno prides itself on being the cultural capital of the island, with a rich musical
tradition and its historic importance during the Renaissance. The charming old town of
Rethymno’s capital is one of the island’s architectural treasures, with its stunning fortress,
picturesque Venetian harbour and mixture of Venetian and Turkish houses in the labyrinth
of the old quarter. East of Rethymno town is Crete’s longest stretch of sandy beach, home
to a string of big hotel complexes, while further toward Iraklio are the smaller-scale resorts
of Panormo and Bali.

Inland, you can explore diverse traditional villages, including the tiny agricultural villages
of the Amari Valley, the town of Anogia, known for fine musicians and infamous huge wed-
dings, and the pottery village of Margarites. Travellers on their way south stop at Spili to drink
from its lion-head Venetian fountain, while the tavernas among the springs of Argyroupolis
are a delightful respite from the summer heat.

Rethymno has three famous caves – Melidoni, Zoniana and the Ideon cave near Mt Psiloritis,
where Zeus was allegedly reared. The south-coast resorts of Agia Galini and Plakias have their
loyal following, while further west the rugged cliffs are interspersed with some of the island’s
finest unspoilt beaches. Rethymno also has two of Crete’s most historically significant mon-
asteries – Moni Arkadiou in the north and the Moni Preveli overlooking the Libyan sea.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Strolling the maze of narrow streets in

Rethymno’s Venetian and Turkish old Panormo Bali
town (p123) Rethymno
„ Cooling off by the springs of Argyroupo-
Anogia
lis (p130) Argyroupolis

„ Exploring the unspoilt southern beaches,

from Preveli (p141) to Agios Pavlos Preveli
Monastery
(p141) Southern
Beaches
„ Hitting the northern coastal resorts of
Bali (p144) and Panormo (p143)
„ Visiting the Preveli monastery (p140)
„ Listening to mandinades (rhyming cou-
plets) by moonlight in Anogia (p136)
 122 R E T H Y M N O • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

0 10 km
RETHYMNO REGION 0 6 miles

To Piraeus

SEA OF CRETE
Drapano Cape Stavros
Peninsula To Iraklio (26km);
Panormo Malia (65km)
Bali

Almyros Bay Melidoni Melidoni Sises

Cave Fodele
To Hania (36km) Rethymno Platanias Perama
Petres Pigi
Georgioupolis Beach Loutra
Adele Episkopi Garazo
Astipopoulo Kyrianna Drosia
Maroulas Margarites
Episkopi
Axos
Eleftherna Axos
Lake
Kournas Armeni Moni Gonies
RETHYMNO

Zoniana
HANIA Arkadiou Sfendoni Anogia
Argyroupolis RETHYMNO Cave Sklavokambos
Asi Gonia
Apostoli Thronos Mt Psiloritis
Agia Fotini (Mt Idi)
Patsos (2456m)
Meronas Amari
Koxare Valley Ideon Andron
Kotsifou Cave Skinakas
Moni Gorge Amari Fourfouras Observatory
Finika Sellia Spili
Myrthios Gerakari Nida
Skaloti Asomatos Kourtaliotis Kouroutes Plateau
Gorge Mt Kedros
Plakias (1777m) Kamares
Lefkogia Akoumia Cave
Megalopotamos Nithavris
Damnoni Kamares IRAKLIO
Moni Kerames
Beach
Preveli Platanos
Preveli
Beach
Agia Irini Agios
Beach Triopetra Giorgios
Beach Agios
LIBYAN SEA Ligres Pavlos
Agia
Beach Agios Pavlos Galini Tymbaki
Beach Gortyna
Mesara Agia Triada Mires
Gulf
Phaestos

RETHYMNO ΡΕΘΥΜΝΟ mains have never been excavated, although

later Roman mosaics have been found beneath
the modern town.
pop 28,959 The town prospered once more under the
Rethymno (reth-im-no) is the island’s third- Venetians, who ruled from 1210 until 1645,
largest town and one of the most picturesque, and turned Rethymno (which they renamed
with a charming Venetian harbour and Castel Vecchio) into an important commer-
delightful old Venetian-Ottoman quarter. cial centre exporting wine and oil. The town
The old quarter is a maze of narrow streets flourished artistically under the Venetians and
draped in floral canopies, graceful wood- became the seat of a Venetian prefect. They
balconied houses and ornate Venetian monu- built the harbour and began fortifying the town
ments, with minarets adding a touch of the in the 16th century against the growing threat
Orient. While architectural similarities in- from the Turks. Michele Sanmicheli, the best
vite comparison with Hania, Rethymno has military architect of the era, designed the thick
a character all its own. outer walls, of which only the Porto Guora sur-
vives. The walls did not stop the city from being
HISTORY sacked by the pirate Barbarossa in 1538.
The name Rethymno means ‘stream of water’ The Venetians then built the massive for-
and evidence (to be found in the city’s ar- tress on the hill, which nevertheless was un-
chaeological museum) indicates that the site able to withstand the Turkish assault of 1646
of modern Rethymno has been occupied and collapsed after a 22-day siege. Rethymno
since Late Minoan times. In the 3rd and 4th was an important seat of government under
centuries BC, ‘Rithymna’ emerged as an au- the Turks but it was also a centre of resistance
tonomous state of sufficient stature to issue to Turkish rule. The Turks inflicted severe
its own coinage. Ancient Rithymna probably reprisals upon the town for its role in the up-
lay at the base of Palekastro Hill but its re- rising of 1821, but the resistance continued.
lonelyplanet.com R E T H Y M N O • • O r i e n t a t i o n 123

Turkish forces held the town until 1897, Laundry

when it was taken by Russia as part of the Laundry Mat (%28310 29722; Tombazi 45; wash & dry
occupation of Crete by the Great Powers. €9; h8.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.15pm
Rethymno became an artistic and intellectual Sat) Next door to the youth hostel.
centre after the arrival of a large number of
refugees from Smyrna in 1923. Left Luggage
These days, the city has a campus of the KTEL (%28310 22659; cnr Kefalogiannidon & Igou-
University of Crete, attracting a large student menou Gavriil) The bus station stores luggage for €1.50
population that keeps the town lively outside per day.
the tourist season.
Medical Services
ORIENTATION Rethymno Hospital (%28210 27491; Triandalydou
Rethymno is a fairly compact town with 17; h24hr)

RETHYMNO
most of the major sights, accommodation
and places to stay and eat within a small area Money
off the old Venetian harbour. Most of the old Alpha Bank (Pavlou Koundouriotou 29) Has a 24-hour
town is pedestrian-only and parking can be a automatic exchange machine and ATM.
nightmare so you are better off leaving the car National Bank of Greece (Dimokratias) On the far side
in one of the car parks (see Map pp124–5). of the square opposite the town hall.
The old quarter occupies the headland National Mortgage Bank Next to the town hall, has a
north of Dimakopoulou, which runs from 24-hour automatic exchange machine and ATM.
Plateia Vardinogianni on the western side to
Plateia Iroön on the east. This is where you’ll Post
find the most atmospheric hotels and eateries. Post office (%28310 22303; Moatsou 21; h7am-
Banks and services are to the south on the 7pm Mon-Fri)
edge of the new town.
The beach is on the eastern side of town, Toilets
around from the Venetian harbour. One block There is a reasonable public toilet near the
back from the beach is Arkadiou, the main Venetian harbour just off Arkadiou.
commercial and shopping street.
If you arrive by bus, you will be dropped Tourist Information
at the rather inconveniently located terminal Municipal tourist office (%28310 29148; www
about 600m west of the Porto Guora, the his- .rethymno.gr; Delfini Bldg, Eleftheriou Venizelou;
toric gate to the old town. If you arrive by ferry, h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm Sat & Sun
the old quarter is at the end of the quay. Mar-Nov).
Prefecture tourist office (%28310 25571 www
INFORMATION .rethymnon.gr; Dimokratias 1; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri).
Bookshops
Book Store Mediterraneo (%28310 23417; Mavroko- Travel Agencies
rdatou 2) English books, travel guides and foreign press. Ellotia Tours (%28310 24533; www.rethymnoatcrete
Ilias Spondidakis bookshop (%28310 54307; .com; Arkadiou 155; h9am-9pm Mar-Nov) Helpful office
Souliou 43) Novels in English, books about Greece, tapes of that handles boat and plane tickets, changes money, rents
Greek music; small secondhand section. cars and motorcycles, and books excursions.
Xenos Typos (%28310 29405; Ethnikis Antistaseos 21)
Foreign press, guidebooks and maps. SIGHTS
Rethymno’s 16th-century fortezza (fortress;
Emergency %28310 28101; Paleokastro Hill; admission €3.10; h8am-
Tourist police (%28310 28156; Delfini Bldg, Elefth- 8pm Jun-Oct) is on the site of the city’s ancient
eriou Venizelou; h7am-2.30pm) In the same building as acropolis. Within its massive walls a great
the municipal tourist office. number of buildings once stood, of which
only a church and a mosque survive intact.
Internet Access The ramparts offer good views, while the site
Cybernet (Kallergi 44-46; per hr €3; h10am-5am) has lots of ruins to explore. The main gate is
Galero (%28310 54345; Plateia Rimondi; per hr €3; opposite the Archaeological Museum on the
h6am-late) eastern side of the fortress, but there were once
 124 R E T H Y M N O lonelyplanet.com

RETHYMNO

Sea of Crete
foros
eo
Periferia kos L

56
21

Ke
RETHYMNO

fa l
og
16 i a nn
idon Ferry
19 47
Quay
46 Makedonias
32 37
Plateia 71
Plastira

Mesolongiou
Katehaki

59

A rk a d i o u
33
27 Damvergi
40 69
oforos

58
Salamino
36 s
Periferiakos Le

Venetian
M e li s s i n o u Harbour
67 45
Xanthoudidou

25
s 5
nthyo 62 41 55 63
ama
Smyrnis

31 61 18
Plateia Rad glou 64 Paleologou
Iroon ab atzo 49 53 51 26
Polytehniou Ar 38
2 66 29
neou Vernard60
Koro 7
ou

ou
uli
Riga Fereou

23 57 28
So

39
National 35 50
Stadium
n

17
Nikiforou F
Kefalogiannido

seosta

43 Beach
A n ti s
oka

Plateia 4
Vardinogianni
68
ikis
Alexandrou

Ethn

44
Kastrinogiannaki

Vlas 15 54
to u Si Ele
fi Dim Tomba22
ako 42 zi
pou 8 3
lou 30
34
riil
Gav 65
rg
i
ou Plateia
men
lle

G era
Igou Martyron
Varda Ka

kari
70 Pavlo
u Ko
undo
uriot
ou
Municipal 14
Iliakaki

Park 1
i

To Prima Plora (1.2km);

alak

11
University of Crete (3km);
Dask

Petres (10km);
Hania (57km) Koum 48
ratias

ou ndour
Kria

ou
13 10
Dim o k
ri

72 52
6 12 M
ki

Moa
rika

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it
Dim

To Agia Galini
(55km)
20
INFORMATION Post Office.................................12 C5
Alpha Bank.................................. 1 D5 Prefecture Tourist Office............13 D5 Fortezza.....................................21 B2
Bookstore Mediterraneo ..............2 C3 Tourist Police.............................(see 9) Happy Walker........................... 22 D4
Cybernet..................................... 3 D4 Town Hall.................................. 14 D5 Hellenic Conservatory..............(see 28)
Ellotia Tours.................................4 D4 Xenos Typos.............................. 15 C4 Historical & Folk Art Museum....23 C3
Galero..........................................5 C3 Kara Musa Pasha Mosque..........24 E4
Hospital........................................6 B5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Lighthouse.................................25 D3
Ilias Spondidakis Bookshop...........7 C3 Archaeological Museum.............16 B2 Loggia........................................26 C3
KTEL........................................(see 70) Centre for Byzantine Art............17 C3 Municipal Art Gallery.................27 C2
Laundry Mat................................8 C4 Centre for Contemporary Art...(see 27) Nerantzes Mosque.....................28 C3
Municipal Tourist Office...............9 E4 Dolphin Cruises..........................18 D3 Paradise Dive Centre..................29 D3
National Bank of Greece............10 D5 Entrance to Fortress....................19 B2 Porto Guora...............................30 C4
National Mortgage Bank............11 D5 EOS...........................................20 D5 Rimondi Fountain.......................31 C3
lonelyplanet.com R E T H Y M N O • • S i g h t s 125

0 200 m two other gates on the western and northern

0 0.1 miles
sides for the delivery of supplies and ammuni-
tion. In summer it is a stunning concert venue
SLEEPING for the Renaissance Festival (p126).
Atelier..............................................32 C2
Avli Lounge Apartments.................(see 64)
Rethymno’s tiny Venetian harbour is
Barbara Dokimaki Rooms.................33 C2 crammed with fish tavernas and cafés fronted
Byzantine Hotel................................34 C4
Casa dei Delfini.................................35 B3
by touts, but you can get a better sense of it
Hotel Fortezza..................................36 C3 by walking along the old harbour walls past
Hotel Ideon......................................37 C2
Hotel Veneto....................................38 C3
the fishing boats to the landmark lighthouse,
Olga's Pension.................................39 C3 built later by the Turks.
Palazzini Di Corina...........................40 C2
Palazzo Rimondi...............................41 C3 The small Archaeological Museum (%28310
Rethymno Youth Hostel...................42 C4 54668; admission €3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), near the
Sea Front......................................... 43 D4
entrance to the fortress, was once a prison. The

RETHYMNO
Vetera Suites................................... 44 D4
To Piraeus exhibits are well labelled in English and con-
EATING
Avli..................................................45 C3 tain Neolithic tools, Minoan pottery excavated
Castelvecchio....................................46
Fanari...............................................47
B2
C2
from nearby tombs, Mycenaean figurines and
Halkiadakis Supermarket..................48 C5 a 1st-century-AD relief of Aphrodite, as well
Kapilio..............................................49 C3
Lemonokipos....................................50 C3
as an important coin collection. There are
Mona Liza........................................51 C3 also some excellent examples of blown glass
Nikiforos..........................................52 D5
Othonas...........................................53 C3
from the classical period. Various displays
Samaria............................................ 54 D4 outline the history of archaeological excava-
Taverna Kyria Maria.........................55 C3
Thalassografia...................................56 B1 tions in the region. Rethymno’s Historical & Folk
Yiorgos Hatziparaskos......................57 C3 Art Museum (%28310 23398; Vernardou 28-30; admission
€3; h9.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat) gives an excellent
overview of the area’s rural lifestyle, with its
collection of clothing, baskets, weavings and
farm tools, and useful explanatory labels. It is
in a lovely historic Venetian building.
Marina Pride of place among the many vestiges
of Venetian rule goes to the Rimondi Fountain
with its spouting lion heads and Corinthian
9
capitals, built first in 1588 and rebuilt in
Ele
ft h
erio
1626 by a rector of the city, A Rimondi. An-
u V
e ni
z elo
To Auto Motor Sports (100m); Tourist Info (100m); other major landmark is the 16th-century
u Kalypso Rock’s Palace Dive Centre (200m);
Meli (300m); Odysseas The Cyclist (800m);
Baja Beach Club (3km); Zisi’s (4km)
Loggia (a Venetian version of a gentleman’s
Ark
a dio
u Plateia
club), once a meeting house for Vene-
24 Iroön tian nobility, now a museum shop selling
good-quality reproductions.
To Elizabeth At the southern end of Ethnikis Antistaseos
Camping (3km);
Iraklio (85km) is the well-preserved Porto Guora (Great Gate),
a remnant of the defensive wall that was once
Marouli ENTERTAINMENT topped with the symbol of Venice: the Lion of
Asteria Cinema.................................58 B2
Erofili Theatre...................................59 B2 St Mark, now in the Archaeological Museum.
Figaro...............................................60 C3 Around the Porto Guora lies a network of old
Fortezza Disco..................................61 D3
Raki Baraki.......................................62 C3 streets built by the Venetians and rebuilt by
Rock Club Café................................63 D3 the Turks. The Centre for Byzantine Art (%28210
SHOPPING 50120; Ethnikis Antistaseos; h10am-2pm & 7pm-late) is a
Avli Raw Ingredients........................64
En Hordais.......................................65
C3
D4
great example of a restored Venetian-Turkish
Omodamos......................................66 C3 mansion and has exhibitions, workshops and
Silverhorse........................................67
Zominthos....................................... 68
C3
D4
a terrace café with great views of the old town.
Other Turkish legacies in the old quarter in-
TRANSPORT
ANEK............................................... 69 D2
clude the Kara Musa Pasha Mosque, which has
Bus Station.......................................70 A4 a vaulted fountain, and the Nerantzes Mosque,
Ferries to Piraeus..............................71 D2
Olympic Airways..............................72 B5
which was converted from a Franciscan
church in 1657. It now houses the Hellenic
 126 R E T H Y M N O • • A c t i v i t i e s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Conservatory (%28310 22724; Vernadou 1; hclosed ormo and Bali (adult/child under 12 €25/12),
August) and makes a lovely venue for concerts all-day trips to Marathi beach (€34/17), and
and recitals. The management is happy for fishing trips on a speedboat (€25).
you to have a look around. The building’s Travel agents sell a range of coach ex-
minaret, built in 1890, was being restored at cursions to key sites, including the Samaria
the time of writing. Gorge (€28), Elafonisi (€26) and Gramvousa
The Municipal Art Gallery (%/fax 28310 52530; (€24). Prices exclude admission charges and
Himaras 5 & Melissinou; h9am-2pm Tue-Sun, 5-9pm Wed) boat fares.
near the fortezza houses a permanent exhibi-
tion of works by Rethymno painter Lefteris FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Kanakakis, as well as contemporary Greek Rethymno’s main cultural event is the an-
artists since 1950. It is part of the Centre for nual Renaissance Festival (%28310 51199; www.rfr
Contemporary Art (www.rac.gr; h9am-1pm & 7-10pm .gr;), which runs from July to September.
RETHYMNO

Tue-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun) , which holds periodic Held primarily in the open-air Erofili Theatre
exhibitions. The pleasant municipal park offers at the fortezza, it features performances by
a respite from the heat and crowds. Greece’s leading theatre companies, as well as
dance, music and acts from around Europe.
ACTIVITIES It promotes both the Cretan and European
Hiking Renaissance, so you will get anything from
The Happy Walker (%/fax 28310 52920; www.happy Shakespeare and Molière to Cretan play-
walker.com; Tombazi 56; h5pm-8.30pm) runs vari- wrights. Get programmes and tickets at the
ous walks in the region, including complete town hall (%28310 88279; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Fri)
walking holidays. or from the Erofili Theatre one hour before
Rethymno’s chapter of the Greek Moun- performances.
taineering Club EOS (EOS; %28310 57766; www.eos Most years there’s a Wine Festival in mid-
.rethymnon.com; Dimokratias 12; h8.30-10.30pm) can July, which is held in the municipal park and
give advice on the region. offers a good opportunity to sample local
wine and cuisine. Ask the tourist office for
Bike Riding details. Rethymno is also renowned for its an-
Cycling enthusiast and Greek Paralympic nual carnival celebration (http://carnival-in-rethymnon
champion Odyseas the Cyclist %/fax 28310 58178; -greece.com), a three week pre-Lent celebration
[email protected]; Velouhioti 31) runs small of dancing and masquerading, games and
guided rides in the area including half-day treasure hunts and a grand street parade. It
tours to Arkadi, Margarites and Argyroupoli usually falls around January or February.
(€40) and full-day rides to Preveli (€60). He
has top brand bikes for hire and also runs SLEEPING
tailored tours for people with disabilities. The old town has an ample supply of lovely re-
stored mansions, boutique hotels and friendly
Diving pensions to cater for all budgets, and many
The Paradise Dive Centre (%28310 26317; www.diving hotels are open all year. To the east is an end-
-center.gr) runs diving activities and PADI less stretch of hotels and resorts.
courses for all grades of divers from their base
at Petres, about 15 minutes west of Rethymno. Budget
Kalypso Rock’s Palace Dive Centre (%28310 20990; Elizabeth Camping (%28310 28694; www.camping
www.kalypsodivingcenter.com; Eleftheriou Venizelou 42) elizabeth.com; sites per person €6.54, tent small/large
runs a slick diving operation, mostly from €4.85/5.65) Located near Mysiria beach, 3km
its diving base in Plakias (Map p122) on the east of Rethymno, this is the nearest camp-
southern coast. ing ground. There’s a taverna, snack bar
and mini-market, plus a communal fridge,
TOURS free beach umbrellas and sun lounges, and
Rethymno is well placed for boat excursions. a weekly beach BBQ. An Iraklio-bound bus
Along the harbour front there are several com- can drop you here.
panies that offer boat trips, including Dolphin Rethymno Youth Hostel (%28310 22848; www.yh
Cruises (%28310 57666), which offers three-hour rethymno.com; Tombazi 41; dm with shared bathroom €9; i)
trips on the ‘pirate ship’ to nearby caves, Pan- The hostel is friendly and well run with free
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com R E T H Y M N O • • S l e e p i n g 127

hot showers. Breakfast is available from €2 ish and Venetian architectural features have
and there’s a bar in the evening. There is no been cleverly maintained in this elegant pen-
curfew and the place is open all year. sion, including an old stone trough and the
Barbara Dokimaki Rooms (%28310 24581; alicedok@ hammam (Turkish bath) ceiling in one of the
yahoo.com; Damvergi 14; s €30, d €45-60, tr €70; a) This studio bathrooms. There is a range of tradi-
well-located complex of rooms in a Venetian tionally decorated rooms, all with kitchenettes,
building with a newer 2nd-floor addition is through the most impressive is the massive
set around a pleasant courtyard. The rooms maisonette with a large private terrace.
are simple with timber floors and some period Hotel Ideon (%28310 28667; www.hotelideon.gr; Plas-
features. They have TV and dated but func- tira 10; s/d €54/75, studio/apt incl breakfast €90/105; s)
tional bathrooms. This polished central establishment is one
Sea Front (%28310 51981; www.forthnet.gr/elotia; of the oldest hotels in town, spread over two
Arkadiou 159; d €35-45; a) This conveniently restored old buildings and a modern wing.

RETHYMNO
located pension on the beach has pleasant The rooms are nicely decorated and well
budget rooms with timber floors and fridge. appointed and there are balconies with sea
They also have cheerful studio apartments views. The courtyard pool spares you the long
with sea views and ceiling fans further to- walk to Rethymno’s beach.
wards the town beach, and rooms in another Hotel Veneto (%28310 56634; www.veneto.gr; Epi-
building nearby. menidou 4; studio/ste incl breakfast €124/143; a) The
oAtelier (%28310 24440; [email protected] oldest part of the hotel dates from the 14th
net.gr; Himaras 27; d €35-45) One of the best value century and many traditional features have
options are these clean and attractively refur- been preserved without sacrificing modern
bished rooms attached to a pottery workshop. comforts. There’s a stunning pebble mosaic
Both are run by Froso Bora. They have ex- in the foyer and the eye-catching rooms of
posed stone walls and many Venetian archi- polished wood floors and ceilings have iron
tectural features, as well as small flat-screen beds, satellite TV and kitchenettes. Rates drop
TVs, new bathrooms and kitchenettes. significantly out of high season.
Olga’s Pension (%28310 28665; Souliou 57; s/d/tr
€35/45/65) Friendly Olga’s is tucked away on Top End
touristy but colourful Souliou. It has a faded oVetera Suites (%28310 23844; www.vetera
charm, with a quirky décor and a network of .gr; Kastrinogiannaki 39; d €85-150; a) These six el-
terraces bursting with flowers and greenery egant suites stand out for their attention to
that connect a range of dated but colourful detail, from the lace curtains to the mastic
rooms. Most have a fridge, TV, fan and basic bath products and china tea sets for breakfast.
bathrooms. Rates include breakfast at Stella’s Each room is stylishly decorated with iron
kitchen downstairs. beds and antiques, and comes with a neatly
Byzantine Hotel (%28310 55609; Vosporou 26; d incl concealed kitchenette. The bathroom tiles fea-
breakfast €45) The excellent-value small hotel in a ture paintings by the owner’s favourite artist,
historic building near the Porta Guora main- Degas, and there are DVD players and other
tains a traditional feel. The rooms are simply mod cons, including access for laptops.
decorated with carved timber furniture and Palazzo Rimondi (%28310 51289; www.palazzo
some have bathtubs. The back rooms overlook rimondi.com; Xanthoudidou 21 & Trikoupi 16; d studio/ste incl
the old mosque and minaret. At the time of breakfast €160-190; a) This charming Venetian
writing there were plans to install air-con. mansion in the heart of the old city has ex-
quisite individually decorated studios with
Midrange kitchenettes. There’s a small splash pool in the
Hotel Fortezza (%28310 55551; www.fortezza.gr; Melis- courtyard where breakfast is served.
sinou 16; s/d incl breakfast €62/75; pas) Housed Palazzini di Corina (%28310 21205; www.corina
in a refurbished old building in the heart of .gr; Damvergi 9; d €120, ste €160-220; as) This regal
the old town, the tasteful rooms have TVs and Venetian mansion right near the harbour is
telephones. After a day of roaming through one of the classiest boutique hotels in town.
Rethymno, it’s pleasant to relax by the swim- Decorated with antique furniture, it has been
ming pool. beautifully restored, with exposed stone walls,
Casa dei Delfini (%28310 55120; [email protected]; Niki- timber vaulted ceilings and a lovely internal
forou Foka 66-68; studios €45-70, ste €80-140; a) Turk- mosaic courtyard. Prices include breakfast.
 128 R E T H Y M N O • • E a t i n g Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Avli Lounge Apartments (%28310 58250; www Midrange

.avli.gr; cnr Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthyos; r incl à la carte oThalassografia (%28310 52569; Kefalogian-
breakfast €199-239; a) These decadent eclectic nidon 33; mezedes €3.80-7.30) This excellent meze-
suites are spread over two beautifully restored dopoleio is the place to watch the sunset and
Venetian buildings in Rethymno’s historic try some fine mezedes, as well as a few pastas
old town. There are ornate iron or wooden and more hearty meals. It’s a casual place with
beds, antiques, exquisite furnishings and ob- a breathtaking setting under the fortezza, tak-
jets d’art. A fitting place to retire after spoil- ing in views over the sea. The grilled sardines
ing yourself with dinner in Avli’s ambient are excellent, as are the creamy mushrooms.
courtyard garden. Fanari (%28310 54849; Kefalogiannidon 15; mezedes
€2.50-10) West of the Venetian harbour, this
EATING welcoming waterfront taverna serves good
The waterfront along Eleftheriou Venize- mezedes, fresh fish and Cretan cuisine. The
RETHYMNO

lou is lined with similar tourist restaurants bekri mezes (pork with wine and peppers)
staffed by fast-talking touts, as is the Venetian is excellent, or try the local speciality, apaki
harbour except that the setting is better and (smoked pork). The homemade wine is de-
the prices higher. The best places are in the cent, too.
web of side streets inland from the harbour, Castelvecchio (%28310 55163; Himaras 29; mains
while a couple warrant a trip outside the €7-16; hdinner only Jul & Aug, lunch & dinner Sep-Jun)
tourist zone. The affable Valantis will make you really feel
at home in the garden terrace of this family
Budget taverna located on the edge of the fortezza.
Taverna Kyria Maria (%28310 29078; Moshovitou 20; Try the kleftiko (slow oven-baked lamb).
Cretan dishes €2.50-6.50) This good value tradi- Lemonokipos (%28310 57087; Ethnikis Antistaseos
tional taverna behind the Rimondi Fountain 100; mains €5.80-9) Dine among the lemon trees
has outdoor seating and birdcages hanging in the lovely courtyard of this well-respected
from the leafy trellis. Meals normally end taverna in the old quarter. It’s good typical
with a complimentary dessert and shot of Cretan fare, with a decent range of vegetarian
raki. dishes and lots of tasty appetisers.
Zisi’s (%28310 28814; Old Rethymno-Irakion Rd Mysiria; Also recommended is Othonas (%28310
grills €3.20-6; hclosed Tue) Locals swear by Zisi’s 55500; Petihaki 27) for traditional Cretan food. It
for cheap, quality Cretan food, particularly looks touristy on the outside but is decent. It’s
the charcoal-grilled meats and the 25 or so a member of Concred (p57) and uses quality
daily trays of home-style dishes. It’s a little produce.
out of town along the stretch of beachfront
hotels and resorts (on right just before the Top End
Creta Palace), but is worth the trip. Kids will oAvli (%28310 26213; www.avli.com; cnr Xan-
love the new playground. thoudidou 22 & Radamanthyos; mains €13.50-30). This
Samaria (% 28310 24681; Eleftheriou Venizelou; former Venetian villa is the place for a ro-
mayirefta €4-6.50) Of the waterfront tavernas, this mantic evening out, or at least one with maxi-
is one of the few where you’ll see local fami- mum ambience. The nouveau-Cretan style
lies eating. There’s a large range of mayirefta food is superb and there’s an idyllic garden
(casseroles), and the soups and grills are ex- courtyard bursting with pots of herbs, bou-
cellent. gainvillea canopies, fruit trees and works of
Nikiforos (%28310 55403; Moatsou 40; mains €4-7; art. The sleek wine bar in the adjacent old
hnoon-10pm) It may lack the atmosphere of stables boasts more than 400 Greek wines.
the old town, but this traditional mayireio in They’ve also opened the more casual Raki
the new town churns out trays of home-style Baraki (Radamanthyos 16) mezedes bar, with
cooking for hungry locals and does a decent live music Thursday to Sunday.
takeaway trade. Prima Plora (%28310 24925; Akrotiriou 2, Koumbes;
Kapilio (%28310 52001; Xanthoudidou 7; set menu for seafood mezedes €5.50-16) This stylish modern res-
1 €12.50-13.80) Popular with students, this Serb- taurant on the developing beachfront strip on
run mezedopoleio has a mixed menu with a the western side of town is worth the hike. It
range of special set menus that include raki, has an exceptional setting with tables right on
wine, salad and a main dish. the water near an old Venetian water pump
lonelyplanet.com R E T H Y M N O • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 129

with views of the fortezza. It has a sophisticated ing everything from souvenirs to high-end
menu of top-quality seafood dishes such as jewellery. You’ll find better quality main-
prawn risotto, and uses organic vegetables. stream merchandise on Arkadiou. Colourful
Souliou is crammed with little shops. The
ENTERTAINMENT Thursday market on Dimitrakaki along the
Bars & Clubs public gardens has fresh produce, clothing
The bars and cafés along El Venizelou fill up and odds and ends.
on summer evenings with pink-skinned tour- Omodamos (%28310 58763; www.omodamos.com;
ists nursing tropical drinks. Rethymno’s live- Souliou 3) The original ceramic designs in this
lier nightlife is concentrated around Nearhou shop are made by leading ceramicists from
and Salaminos near the Venetian harbour, as around Greece.
well as the waterfront bars off Plastira Square. Zominthos (%28310 52673; Arkadiou 129) This
Students frequent the lively rakadika (cafés shop has an eclectic selection of jewellery

RETHYMNO
serving carafes of raki or wine with mezedes) from contemporary Greek designers as well
on Vernadou. as some ceramics and sculptures.
Fortezza Disco (Nearhou 20; h11pm-dawn) The En Hordais (%28310 29043; Varda Kalergi 38) This
town’s veteran disco is big and flashy with tiny store packed with handmade musical
three bars, a laser show and an international instruments is the place to get that Cretan
crowd that starts drifting in around midnight. lyra (a three-stringed instrument similar to
Rock Club Café (%28310 31047; Petihaki 8; h9pm- a violin), bouzouki or other Greek musical
dawn) is one of Rethymno’s classic hang-outs; instruments.
tourists fills the club nightly. Silverhorse (%28310 51401; www.silverhorse.gr;
Figaro (%28310 29431; Vernardou 21; %11am-late) Radamanthios 10) This place specialises in hand-
Housed in a cleverly restored old building, made belts, leather goods, saddles and other
Figaro is an atmospheric ‘art and music’ all- interesting leather paraphernalia, which it
day bar that attracts a subdued crowd. can make to order.
Baja Beach Club (%28310 20333; Platanias) On the Avli Raw Materials (%28310 58228; Arabatzoglou
old highway east of the town, this massive 38-40) Foodies will love this store packed
beach bar is like a tropical paradise with palm with a huge range of gourmet delights from
trees and bars around a big pool. At night it around Greece, including an excellent selec-
morphs into a happening club. The turn-off tion of wine.
is just before the bridge.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Cinemas Boat
Asteria Cinema (%28310 22830; Melissinou 21; tickets Note that some ferries leave from the port and
€7; h9pm) A small open-air cinema showing others from the marina further east.
new-release movies. ANEK (%28310 29221; www.anek.gr; Arkadiou 250)
Ferry three times a week between Rethymno and Piraeus
SHOPPING (€29, 10 hours), leaving both Rethymno and Piraeus at 8pm.
Rethymno’s shopping strip is relatively NEL LINES (%28310 24295; www.nel.gr) Runs a high-
compact, with an assortment of shops sell- speed service between Rethymno and Piraeus (€57, five

SWEET TREATS
One of the last traditional filo masters in all of Greece, Yiorgos Hatziparaskos (%28310 29488; Vernardou
30) still makes super-fine pastry by hand in his traditional workshop. The highlight is when he throws
the dough into a giant bubble before stretching it over a huge table. His wife Katerina encourages
passers-by to watch the spectacle and try some of best baklava and kataifi they will ever eat.
At Mona Liza (%28310 23082; Paleologou 36), around the corner from the Loggia, Nikos Skartsilakis
is legendary for his ‘crema’ ice cream made from sheep’s milk, as well as his excellent sweets. Try
the galaktoboureko (custard pastries), the walnut pie, or vrahaki, chocolate with almonds.
Loukoumades, the donut-like concoctions with honey and cinnamon, have been perfected by
Kanakakis (%28310 22426; Plateia Martyron), just outside the Porto Guora, while locals swear by
the ice cream at Meli (%28310 50847; S Venizelou 7) on the waterfront.
 130 A R O U N D R E T H Y M N O • • A r g y r o u p o l i s lonelyplanet.com

hours) daily from July to September (four times a week

May to June). THE VILLAGE TAVERN
SeaJets (www.seajets.gr) Runs the Superjet catamaran The mountain village tavern, one of the de-
high-speed service on Thursday and Saturday between lights of travelling through Crete, is expe-
Rethymno and Santorini (€37.90, two hours 40 minutes), riencing a revival. A spate of new tavernas
Ios, Naxos and Mykonos (€58). serving traditional Cretan cuisine, albeit in
more stylish surrounds, are breathing new
Bus life into rural villages. Around Rethymno,
From the bus station (%28310 22212; Igoume- you are spoilt for choice. One of the
nou Gavriil) there are hourly summer services best tavernas is O Kipos Tis Arkoude-
to both Hania (€6, one hour) and Iraklio nas (% 28310 61607) near Episkopi, east
(€6.50, 1½ hours). There are also six buses of Rethymno, which has superb organic
a day to Plakias (€3.50, one hour); six to produce and many dishes cooked in the
RETHYMNO

Agia Galini (€5.30, 1½ hours); three to wood oven. Another excellent new arrival
Moni Arkadiou (€2.40, 40 minutes); two is Goules (% 28310 41001) in a lovely re-
to Omalos (€11.90, two hours); two daily stored stone kafeneio in the tiny village of
from Monday to Friday to Margarites (€3, Goulediana, south of Rethymno.
30 minutes); two daily Monday to Friday to
Anogia (€4.50, 1¼ hours); and four to Prev-
eli (€4, 1¼ hours). There are daily buses to ARGYROUPOLIS ΑΡΓΥΡΟΎΠΟΛΗ
Hora Sfakion via Vryses. Services are greatly pop 398
reduced in the low season. When the summer heat becomes too intense for
the beach, you’ll find a natural, outdoor air-con-
GETTING AROUND ditioning system at Argyroupolis, 25km south-
Auto Motor Sports (% 28310 24858; www.auto west of Rethymno. At the bottom of this village
motosport.com.gr; Sofoklis Venizelou 48) rents cars is a watery oasis formed by mountain springs
and motorbikes. that keeps the temperature markedly cooler
than on the coast. Running through aqueducts,
washing down walls, seeping from stones and
AROUND RETHYMNO pouring from spigots, the gushing spring water
supplies the entire city of Rethymno.
The hinterland villages of Rethymno make Towering chestnut and plane trees and
for pleasant excursion if you have your own luxuriant vegetation create a shady, restful
wheels. The hills are not too taxing, the spot for lunch among the waterfalls and
roads not too busy and the scenery is pleas- fountains that have been incorporated into
antly verdant. There are at least a couple of all the tavernas. Argyroupolis is built on the
villages to the southwest of Rethymno that ruins of the ancient city of Lappa. The vil-
make for an ideal afternoon jaunt. lagers maintain a traditional lifestyle, largely
Episkopi, 23km west of Rethymno, is a undisturbed by tourism, but are proud of
pretty, traditional town of winding lanes their heritage and eager to show you around.
and tiny houses, overlooking the valley. The innovative Stelios Manousakas at the
The springs and waterfalls of Argyroupolis Lappa Avocado Shop (%28310 81070), just off the
(right) are a delightfully cool surprise. Marou- main square, is a good source of information
las (p132), 10km southeast of Rethymno, is and provides town maps (he is also the town
a delightful historic town with commanding mayor). You can also pick up a supply of
sea views. his excellent avocado-based creams and skin
The lovely village of Asi Gonia will give you products, which are made from the family’s
some insight into traditional life in Crete. avocado plantation and exported to Athens
Every year around St George’s day (23 April), and France.
Asi Gonia hosts an amazing spectacle with its The turn-off to the springs and tavernas is
stock-breeder’s festival, when thousands of signposted to your right before the village.
goats and sheep are gathered in and around
the church to be blessed and milked (the milk Sights
given out to the crowd). The festivities con- The main square is recognisable by the 17th-
tinue into the evening. century Venetian Church of Agios Ioannis. There
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D R E T H Y M N O • • M o n i Agi a I r i n i s 131

is a quaint private museum of village life on the You will struggle to hear yourself over the
main street above a mini-market run by the sound of the running water and cicadas at the
Zografakis family (see below). The dynamic old water mill Paleos Mylos (%28310 81209; mains
Eleftheria has amassed an eclectic collec- €6-9.90), the last taverna on you right down
tion of family heirlooms and historic items the hill. The verdant location is superb and
from nearby villages. If it is closed, call in at the grills and salad are a safe bet. Across the
the taverna or shop and they will give you a road, Athivoles (%28310 81101) has excellent
private tour. fresh trout, local meat and Cretan cuisine.
The old town is entered through the stone
archway opposite the church. Roman rem- Getting There & Away
nants are scattered amid the Venetian and There are two daily buses from Rethymno
Turkish structures. (€2.80, 40 minutes) to Argyroupolis, Monday
The main street will take you past a Roman to Friday.

RETHYMNO
gate on the left with the inscription Omnia
Mundi Fumus et Umbra (all things in this MONI AGIA IRINIS
world are smoke and shadow). In a few metres ΜΟΝΗ ΑΓΙΑ ΕΙΡΙΝΗΣ
a narrow street to the right leads down to About 5km south of Rethymno, before the
a 3rd-century-BC marble water reservoir with village of the same name, you will come across
seven interior arches. the fortress-like Moni Agia Irinis (%28310 27791;
Returning to the main road and continuing h9am-1pm & 4pm-sunset). The Byzantine build-
in the same direction you will see on the left a ing was badly damaged by the Turks and was
Roman mosaic floor, dating from the 1st century abandoned for more than 150 years until its
BC. With 7000 pieces in six colours, the well- restoration began in 1989 by the dynamic
preserved floor is a good example from the nuns who run the monastery today. It has
Geometric Period (1200–800 BC). become a centre for the preservation of handi-
A couple of signposted roads lead to the tav- crafts and needlework and has a permanent
ernas clustered around the springs below the exhibition of weaving and embroidery. It also
town, but it’s best to get a map from the Lappa sells handicrafts and icons produced by the
Avocado Shop (opposite). A path from the bot- nuns. Parts of the historic building have been
tom of the Paleos Mylos tavern (below) leads restored, including the stables, wine press
to a well-preserved 17th-century water-driven and refectory.
fulling machine, which was used to thicken cloth
by moistening and beating it. Nearby you can ARMENI ΑΡΜΕΝΟΙ
find a Roman bath and St Mary’s Church, built on Heading south from Rethymno, there is
a temple devoted to Neptune. a turn-off to the right to the Late Minoan
North of the town, a footpath on the right Cemetery of Armeni, 2km before the modern
takes you about 50m to a Roman necropolis with village of Armeni. Some 200 tombs were
hundreds of tombs cut into the cliffs. The path carved into the rock here between 1300 and
leads on to a plane tree that is supposed to be 1150 BC, in the midst of an oak forest. The
2000 years old. curious feature of this cemetery is that there
does not seem to have been any sizable town
Sleeping & Eating nearby that would have accounted for so
Lappa Apartments (%28310 81204; d €30-35; a) many tombs. Pottery, weapons and jewellery
Right in the village, these homely apartments excavated from the tombs are now on dis-
set around a courtyard with a lovely garden play at the Archaeological Museum (p125)
enjoy great views of the mountains. They are in Rethymno.
fully equipped with good-sized fridges, decent At Armeni an excellent place to stop for
bathrooms and there are BBQ facilities. It is lunch is Alekos Kafeneio (%28320 41185) next to
perfect for longer stays or families. a small square off the main road. This unex-
Zografakis (%28310 81269; d €25-30) On the main pected gem that’s been run by the same family
road, the Zografakis family rent decent clean for three generations has a small but superb
and cheap rooms above the taverna. daily selection of traditional dishes such as
The tavernas at the springs are a little lamb tsigariasto with a hint of yogurt, served
touristy and overpriced, but you can’t go too with an impressive house salad. The rabbit is
wrong and the setting is spectacular. also recommended.
 132 T H E H I N T E R L A N D • • A m a r i Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com

THE HINTERLAND CRETAN BEER

When Düsseldorf-born mathematician
Rethymno’s mountainous hinterland offers Bernd Brink moved to Crete after marrying a
a diverse range of routes and interesting de- Cretan girl, he did what any self-respecting
tours. In the lush Amari Valley you’ll come German would do – open a brewery. Since
across unspoilt bucolic villages. On the way opening in 2001, the boutique Rethymni-
to the historic Arkadi monastery you can stop aki Brewery (% 28310 41243; h 2pm-late
at the pottery village of Margarites and see Thu-Mon Jul-Oct) – Crete’s only brewery –
the ruins of Ancient Eleftherna. Heading east has progressed from cleaning bottles and
you can explore some historic caves and have labelling by hand to a sophisticated opera-
coffee in the squares of one of Crete’s most tion producing about 150,000 bottles per
famous and traditional towns, Anogia. year. Its well-regarded organic Rethymnian
RETHYMNO

blonde and dark lagers are sold all over

AMARI VALLEY ΚΟΙΛΆΔΑ ΑΜΑΡΊΟΥ Greece. You can drop by and sample them,
You’ll need your own transport to explore along with some meze, at the mini-taverna
the Amari Valley, southeast of Rethymno, be- and beer garden on site. It’s about 12km
tween Mts Psiloritis and Kedros. This region south of Rethymno near Armeni.
harbours around 40 well-watered, unspoilt vil-
lages set amid olive groves, almond and cherry
trees and many lovely Byzantine churches. then joins up again 38km to the south, making
The valley begins in the picturesque village it possible to do a circular drive around the
of Apostoli, 25km southeast of Rethymno, valley; alternatively, you can continue south
reached via a scenic drive through a wild and to Agia Galini.
deserted gorge bordered by high cliffs. The Taking the left fork from Apostoli you’ll
turn-off for Apostoli is on the coast 3km east come to the village of Thronos with its Church
of Rethymno. The road forks at Apostoli and of the Panagia constructed on the remains of

DETOUR: MAROULAS
Enjoying a stunning position perched on a rise with panoramic sea views, the protected historic
settlement of Maroulas, 10km southeast of Rethymno, is spotted by a well-preserved 44m tower
jutting above the village. The fortified town has a mix of late Venetian and Turkish architecture,
including 10 olive presses. Much of it was being restored and is a delight to wander through.
Maroulas is home to Marianna’s Herb Workshop (%28310 72432; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8pm sum-
mer) a treasure trove of alternative herbal remedies and concoctions. Marianna collects aromatic
medicinal herbs from the mountains to make her unique range of teas and oils from natural extracts
using traditional methods. She has products for all manner of ailments, as well as skin products
and herbs for cooking. Her teas in include Sarantovotano, a mix of 40 herbs that midwives used
to boil up so that they might pass the baby through the steam for its first breath.
Marianna’s interest in alternative therapies took her back to her roots to ancient remedies
and her hobby became a full-time obsession when she moved to Maroulas in the mid-1990s.
She hit the mountains and consulted older locals about identifying Crete’s various herbs. ‘This
knowledge shouldn’t be lost,’ she says. ‘People should recognise every plant and know what it’s
for. “Our medicine is our food,” they used to say in ancient times.’ Marianna says animals were
another guide to herbs and flowers, as they don’t touch toxic plants. Indeed, Kri Kri goats were
observed using Crete’s endemic diktamo to heal their wounds, while other historic accounts refer
to wounded goats eating diktamo to expel the hunter’s arrow. The plant is one of the hardest
to find as it can only be collected in gorges and from the rocky tops of mountains where goats
can’t tread.
While in Maroulas you can enjoy sensational views out to sea from the quirky café Farmhouse
Katerina (%28310 71627), which has an animal pen attached. If you call in advance they can make
you a meal from their own meat (thankfully pre-slaughtered). The taverna Ofou to Lo (%28310
71670) also enjoys a lovely setting and has good food.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E H I N T E R L A N D • • S p i l i 133

an early Christian basilica. The 14th-century containers and fill up with the best water on
frescoes are faded but extraordinarily well the island.
executed; the oldest are in the choir stalls. Spili is no longer an undiscovered hidea-
Ask at the kafeneio (coffeehouse) next door way. Tourist buses on their way to the south-
for the key. ern coast regularly stop in the town during
Returning to Apostoli continue south along the day, but in the evening Spili belongs to
the main road. The next town is Agia Fotini, the locals. It is a great base for exploring the
which is a larger town with a supermarket. region, as well as being a good spot for lunch.
The road twists and turns along the scenic There are two ATMs and a post office on the
valley before it comes to Meronas, a little vil- main street and you can check your email at
lage with big plane trees, and a fine Church Fabrica Cafe near the fountain.
of the Panagia. The oldest part of the church
is the nave, which was built in the 14th cen- Sleeping & Eating

RETHYMNO
tury. The southern side of the church with its Heracles Rooms (%/fax 28320 22411; heraclespapadaki
elegant portal was added under the Venetians. [email protected]; s/d €29/40; a) Spotless, nicely fur-
The highlight of the church is the beautifully nished rooms with insect screens, fridge and
restored 14th-century frescoes. great mountain views. Friendly Heracles is
The road continues south to Gerakari, an keen to impart his knowledge of the area.
area known for its delicious cherries. From Costas Inn (%28320 22040; fax 28320 22043; d
Gerakari a new road continues on to Spili. incl breakfast €40) These well-kept rooms have
Near the alluring little village of Patsos is satellite TV, radio, ceiling fans and use of a
the Church of Agios Antonios, in a cave above a washing machine. Some have a fridge. Break-
picturesque verdant gorge. The cave was an fast (their own fresh eggs) is downstairs at
important sanctuary for the Minoans and the the taverna.
Romans, and is still a pilgrimage destination Yianni’s (%28320 22707; mains €4-7) Past the
on 17 January. You can take the scenic route fountain this friendly place has a big court-
along the Spili–Gerakari road, following drive- yard and excellent traditional cooking such
able dirt road to Patsos, where you turn left. as the delicious rabbit in wine, and mountain
The entrance to the gorge is clearly signposted snails. It also has a decent house red.
and it is a short walk to the cave. There are Stratidakis (%28320 22006; specials €4.50-6) This
lovely spots with picnic tables along the way. place has meat grilling on the spits outside and
the specials of the day in pots you can check
SPILI ΣΠΗΛΙ out in the taverna. There’s a lovely balcony
pop 698 out the back.
Spili (spee-lee) is a pretty mountain village Panorama (%28320 22555) Pantelis Vasilakis
with cobbled streets, rustic houses and plane and his wife Calliope run a fine traditional
trees. Its centrepiece is the unique Venetian taverna in a picturesque spot on the outskirts
fountain in the square that spurts water from of town on the road to Agia Galini, with great
19 lion heads, though its recent refurbishment views from the terrace. Traditional family
was ill-advised. Bring along your own water recipes and old-style hospitality are the go.

DETOUR: ADELE
For a glimpse of rural life past and present it’s worth a visit to Agreco (%28310 72129; www.grecotel
.gr; admission free but call in advance), which has recreated a 17th-century farm and mini village on a
huge estate near the village of Adele, about 13km south east from Rethymno. The working farm
prides itself on being a showcase of organic, environment-friendly traditional farming methods
and has modern equipment as well as old machinery, including an old donkey-driven olive press,
watermill and wine press. You can observe the various activities of the farm – including the mak-
ing of cheese, bread, raki and wine – as well as wander around the stockyard and garden. The
estate is owned by the Daskalantonakis family, who own the Grecotel hotel chain. There is also a
kafeneio (coffee house) and shop selling traditional products from the farm and the region. You
can end your visit with a meal at the excellent taverna overlooking the vineyard, which serves
authentic Cretan cuisine using the farm’s produce.
 134 T H E H I N T E R L A N D • • M o n i A r k a d i o u lonelyplanet.com

The bread is usually homemade, the mezedes location between two gorges. Eleftherna was
excellent and mains include specialities such built by the Dorians in the 8th century BC
as kid goat with wild greens. It’s an accredited and became an important settlement. Much
Concred taverna (p57). of the area is still being excavated by Greek
Kambos (%6974 924 833) A lone taverna on archaeologists, who recommenced excava-
the road to Gerakari, about 6km from Spili, tions in 1985 (the British abandoned theirs
an area renowned for its wild tulips and or- in 1929).
chids, this no-frills family run place is gener- You can approach Eleftherna from Arkadi
ally known only by locals. They cook simple, Monastery or from Margarites. At the foun-
traditional Cretan food from their own meat tain, signs point you to the Acropolis, which
and vegetables. is past the car park at the newer Akropolis
taverna (leave the car there) and the remains
Getting There & Away of a tower. A path leads you down to the vast
RETHYMNO

Spili is on the Rethymno–Agia Galini bus route Roman cisterns carved into the hills, which are
(see p130), which has six daily services. eerie to explore. You can see the new excava-
tions in the valley below. A necropolis which
MONI ARKADIOU ΜΟΝΉ ΑΡΚΑΔΊΟΥ yielded evidence of human sacrifice has also
This historic 16th-century monastery (Arkadi been uncovered nearby in the area known as
Monastery; %28310 83136; admission €2; h9am-7pm Orthi Petra, along with a Hellenistic bridge to
Apr-Oct) stands in attractive hill country 23km the north.
southeast of Rethymno. The exterior is coldly The new excavations of the ancient town are
impressive but the Venetian church inside best reached by driving back to the main road
dates from 1587 and has a richly decorated towards Margarites and following the dirt
Renaissance façade with eight slender Cor- road to the site. The Hellenistic and Roman
inthian columns topped by an ornate triple- ruins are currently fenced off, but you can
belled tower (it used to feature on the old 100 get a glimpse. The site is expected to be made
drachma note). more visitor-friendly.
In November 1866 the Turks sent massive
forces to quell insurrections gathering mo- MARGARITES ΜΑΡΓΑΡΊΤΕΣ
mentum throughout the island. Hundreds of pop 330
men, women and children who had fled their Known for its fine pottery, this tiny town is
villages used the monastery as a safe haven. invaded by tour buses in the morning but by
When 2000 Turkish soldiers staged an attack the afternoon all is calm. Then you can enjoy
on the building, the Cretans, rather than sur- wonderful views over the valley from the tav-
render, set light to a store of gun powder. The erna terraces on the main square, dominated
explosion killed everyone, Turks included, ex- by giant eucalyptus trees.
cept for one small girl who lived to a ripe old The town has only one road, which runs
age in a village nearby. A bust of this woman, through town to the town square, where the
and the abbot who lit the gun powder, stand bus stops. There is no bank, post office or
outside the monastery. travel agency, but you’ll find more than 20 ce-
To the left of the church there is a small ramic studios on and around the main street.
museum commemorating the history of the The pottery is of mixed quality and taste, but
monastery. The striking bare cypress trunk if you skip the garish pieces that line the main
in the courtyard, scorched by the Turkish street, there are some authentic local designs
fire, still has a bullet embedded in its bark. It and quality pieces at a few places. Septua-
is worth checking out ossuary in the former genarian potter Manolis Syragopoulos (%28340
windmill outside the museum grounds, which 92363) comes from a long line of potters and
has a macabre collection of skulls and bones is the only one left to use manual wheels and
of the 1866 fighters. a wood-fired kiln – to make pottery the way
There are three daily buses from Rethymno his great grandfather did. His traditional
to the monastery (€2.40, 30 minutes). workshop is about 1km outside the town on
your left.
ELEFTHERNA ΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΝΑ The finer pieces in town can be found at
The site of ancient Eleftherna, 25km south- Konstantinos Gallios’ excellent studio Ceramic
east of Rethymno, is perched on a spectacular Art (%28340 92304) in a lane at the far end of
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E H I N T E R L A N D • • Pe r a m a t o A n o g i a 135

town, and the slick Kerameion (%28340 92135) Continuing east turn left towards the pretty
on the main street, where George Dalamvelas village of Garazo, which has a couple of tav-
is happy to explain the techniques and history ernas and a post office. On the way, there
of the town. Dalamvelas uses largely local clay is a turn-off at the village of Moutzana for
and has many pieces based on Minoan de- Episkopi, a charming tiny village that was once
signs. The traditional potters use local clay, the bishopric under Venetian rule. The town
collected from about 4km away at the foot of has many stone houses, including several well-
Mt Psiloritis. The clay is of such fine quality preserved Venetian mansions that are being
it needs only one firing and no glazing – the restored and turned into private museums.
outside being smoothed with a pebble. You There are some frescoes still evident in the
will see many pieces bearing the special flower ruins of the 15th-century Church of Episkopi and
motif of the area. a Venetian water fountain at the end of the town
next to the bridge.

RETHYMNO
Sleeping & Eating From Episkopi you can continue southeast
Kouriton House (%28340 55828; www.kouritonhouse on a scenic route that takes you past the area’s
.gr; r incl breakfast €45-100) Just outside Margarites largest town, Zoniana. In this region every-
in Tzanakiana, this beautifully restored 1750 one seems to be dressed in black and drives
mansion is a protected historic monument. a pick-up truck.
Philologist Anastasia Friganaki is keen to Look for signs to the Sfendoni Cave (%28340
show guests around the area’s natural and 61734; www.zoniana.gr; h10am-5pm Apr-Nov, 10am-3pm
historic attractions, and demonstrate tradi- weekends Dec-Mar), arguably the most spectacu-
tional methods of making honey, picking lar cave on the island. Stalactites, stalagmites
herbs and greens, and cooking Cretan and and strange rock formations make for an
Minoan cuisine. eerie experience. The front of the cave was a
Mandalos (%28340 92294) On the shady main hideout for Greek fighters against the Turks,
square with lovely views, this well-regarded but most of the large cave (3000 sq metres)
taverna and kafeneio is a good place to stop was undisturbed and is still not accessible to
for lunch. visitors. You can walk a fair way into a cave,
however, through a series of walkways, but it’s
Getting There & Away still important to watch your step as it can be
There are two buses daily from Rethymno slippery. The lighting changes colour, illumi-
Monday to Friday (€3, 30 minutes). nating various parts of the cave. You normally
have to enter the cave in groups with a guide.
PERAMA TO ANOGIA At Zoniana you can visit the quirky Pota-
The province of Mylopotamos has some of mianos Wax Museum (%28340 61087; admission €3.50;
the more dramatic scenery in northern Crete. h10am-sunset), Crete’s answer to Madame Tus-
The hilly interior contains a scattering of saud’s. It has 103 wax dummies of Crete’s
villages and farming towns that are just be- historic figures in some impressive recrea-
ginning to attract some tourism. The roads tions of historic moments, including a secret
leading southeast from the small commercial school and macabre execution scenes. The
centre of Perama to Anogia pass through a private collection was created over 25 years
series of cosy villages and bustling market by septuagenarian Dionysis Potamianos and
towns along the foothills of Mt Psiloritis. his wife. The road continues to the village of
From Perama, take the northeast turn-off Axos, which has the kind of lazy Cretan ambi-
to the Melidoni cave (%28340 22650; admission €3; ence that has made it a popular stop for tour
h9am-6pm Mar-Oct) also known as Geront- buses. During the day the village is quiet, but
ospilios. More than 300 villagers took ref- at night the tavernas with open-air terraces
uge from the Turkish army in the cave in host ‘Cretan folklore evenings’ for tourists.
1824. When the villagers refused to emerge,
the Turks threw burning materials through ANOGIA ΑΝΏΓΕΙΑ
a hole in the top of the cave and asphyxiated pop 2125
everyone. After paying your respects to the If ever there was a village in Crete that embod-
martyrs at a monument in the Heroes Room, ies the quintessential elements that make up
you can wander through chambers filled with the ‘real’ Crete, it is Anogia, a bucolic village
several stalactites and stalagmites. perched on the flanks of Mt Psiloritis.
 136 T H E H I N T E R L A N D • • A n o g i a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Anogia is well known for its rebellious Yiorgos, who is known to hold impromptu
spirit and its determination to hang on to its lyra performances. Knock next door or ask
undiluted Cretan character. It’s a macho town at the square if it’s not open.
where the kafeneia on the main square are
frequented by moustachioed men, the older Orientation & Information
ones often wearing traditional dress (baggy The town is spread out on a hillside with the
pants and headdress), the younger ones driv- textile shops in the lower half and most ac-
ing mean-looking 4WD utilities (pick-ups). commodation and businesses in the upper
The women stay behind the scenes or flog half, so getting around involves some steep
the traditional crafts that hang all over the climbing. There’s an ATM and post office in
shops in town. the upper village.
Anogia is also known for its stirring music, Infocost (%28340 31808; per hr €3; h5pm-late) in
and the town has spawned a disproportionate the upper village has internet access.
RETHYMNO

number of Crete’s best-known musicians (see

p49), including the legendary Nikos Xylouris Festivals & Events
(the house in the main square where he was Most weekends there is usually some event
born is a mini-shrine; its quasi kafeneio is run (official or not) taking place in Anogia.
by his sister). A wedding in Anogia often involves the
During WWII Anogia was a centre of re- entire village (see boxed text, opposite). In
sistance to the Germans, who massacred all late July, the town hosts cultural events and
the men in the village in retaliation for their concerts as well as the Yakinthia Festival (www
role in sheltering Allied troops and aiding .yakinthia.com), organised by the musician Lou-
in the kidnap of General Kreipe. The black dovikos ton Anogion, which includes open-air
shirts men still wear today are to demonstrate concerts at a site on the slopes of Mt Psiloritis.
their mourning. Look around for posters in Anogia from mid-
Today, Anogia is the centre of a prosperous July onwards, or check online for details.
sheep husbandry industry and a burgeoning
tourist trade, bolstered as much by curious Sleeping & Eating
Greeks as by foreign travellers seeking a Crete Kitros (%28340 31429; d €25) This is the only ac-
away from the hype of the coastal resorts. You commodation in the lower village. Rooms
may still come across a spontaneous, lively are reasonably priced but share a bathroom
mandinades (traditional Cretan rhyming between two rooms. It is above the taverna
songs) session in one of the tavernas or cafés, (grills €4-7), which does a presentable job of
particularly during the sheep-shearing season dishes like gigandes (lima beans), or baked
in July, accompanied by copious amounts of lamb and potatoes. The homemade wine and
raki. Pistol shots often ring into the night air. raki is good too.
Behind the main square of the lower vil- Rooms Aris (%28340 314817; d €30) Aris enjoys
lage is the small Grilios museum (%28340 31593) perhaps the best views in Anogia. Rooms are
with quirky sculptures in stone and wood by clean and cosy and all have new bathrooms.
local Alkiviadis Skoulas. It is run by his son It is next door to the Aristea.

BACK TO THE FARM

Agrotourism is picking up in Crete, and Axos’ Enagron (%28340 61611; www.enagron.gr; studios & apt
€78-130) is a fine example of the new school of classy rural developments. Enagron is part of the
trend towards year-round ecotourism. This farm and accommodation complex hosts occasional
cooking seminars on Cretan cuisine and local produce, and allows guests to participate in cook-
ing and any aspect of its agricultural and productive life, from raki and cheese-making classes
with the local shepherd to picking wild greens. It’s hardly roughing it – there is a pool in the
middle overlooking the mountains, comfortable traditionally furnished stone-built studios with
fireplaces, a lovely taverna serving its own organic produce, and a communal area with antiques
and a country-estate feel. It also runs guided walks and horse or donkey rides in the surrounding
countryside. Accommodation is 20% cheaper in summer.
You can visit the farm and eat at the restaurant by booking ahead.
lonelyplanet.com T H E H I N T E R L A N D • • M t Ps i l o r i t i s 137

A CRETAN AFFAIR
Anogia is famous for its wild and extravagant wedding celebrations, which traditionally take
place in the village squares – 2000 guests are not uncommon and most of the village joins in.
Family and friends gather to accompany the groom with a musical procession through the vil-
lage to the bride’s house.
The staccato rattle of a machine gun, or the crack of pistols fired into the air signal the start
of the groom’s walk (moves to ban this practice have met with mixed success). At the bride’s
house, the groom’s party is met with more machine gun fusillades. The combined parties then
make their way to the church for the ceremony, after which the party starts in one of the village
squares (or taverna). There is copious food – mostly chunks of lamb and watermelon – and an
obscene amount of drink, and then the music and dancing begins and continues until dawn. If
the event is being held in the square, they don’t mind visitors discretely joining the festivities.

RETHYMNO
Don’t join the dancing unless you are invited as each song is normally paid for by the group
dancing so others don’t cut in. Ask around if you are in Anogia on a weekend; you might just
score an invite to a most memorable event. Otherwise just follow the pick-up trucks carting piles
of meat, and the sound of gunfire.

Hotel Aristea (%28340 31459; d incl breakfast €40) In Getting There & Away
the upper village, the friendly Aristea enjoys There are four buses daily from Iraklio (see
good views and cool breezes in simple but p158; €3.40, one hour), and two buses daily
well-outfitted rooms with TV, private bath- Monday to Friday from Rethymno (€4.50,
rooms and balconies. The owner also runs the 1¼ hours).
excellent modern studios next door.
Ta Skalomata (%28340 31316; grills €4-8) This, MT PSILORITIS ΟΡΟΣ ΨΕΙΛΟΡΊΤΗΣ
the oldest restaurant in town, provides a wide Imposing Mt Psiloritis, also known as Mt Idi,
variety of grills and Cretan dishes at very at 2456m is the highest mountain in Crete.
reasonable prices. Zucchini with cheese and At the eastern base of Mt Psiloritis is the
aubergine is very tasty, as is the home-baked Nida Plateau, a wide expanse used for sheep
bread. The restaurant is on the eastern side of grazing that lies between a circle of impos-
the upper village and enjoys great views. ing mountains. The winding, 22km paved
Aetos (%28340 31262; grills €5-8.50) This popular road leading up to the plateau from Anogia is
taverna in the upper village has a giant charcoal carpeted with wild flowers in the early spring
grill cooking meat out the front and fantastic and you’ll notice many mitata (round stone
mountain views out the back. It is tradition- shepherd’s huts) along the way (beware, some
ally furnished and has good Cretan cooking. are guarded by dogs).
A regional special is ofto, a flame-cooked lamb The surreal space-age domed structures
or goat. Aetos also serves the local mainstay – on a lunar-like landscape you will spot to the
spaghetti cooked in stock with cheese. east is the Skinakas Observatory, the country’s
The capacious Delina (%28340 31701) is most significant star-gazing vantage point,
owned and occasionally patronised by re- at height of 1750m. It is possible to drive
nowned Cretan lyra player Vasilis Skoulas but up to the site for spectacular views, but the
is better suited to big functions than intimate nocturnal astronomers don’t appreciate day-
dining. It is next to the new Delina Mountain re- time visitors. The observatory does, however,
sort (www.delina.biz), a swanky year-round retreat open to the public once a month during the
with indoor pool, sauna and hammam, about full moon from May to September, between
2km along the road to the Nida Plateau. 5pm and 11pm (English-speaking guides in
If the square in the lower village is a bit July and August only). Check the website
intimidating for a coffee stop, head further (www.skinakas.org.gr).
up to the lovely shady square next to Agios Psiloritis’ important feature is the Ideon An-
Yiorgos church, where you must try the divine dron Cave – the place where, according to legend,
sheep’s milk ice cream and galaktoboureko the god Zeus was reared. The cave may have
(custard pastries) at Skandali Zaharoplasteio been inhabited in the early Neolithic period.
(%28340 31236). It is accessible to visitors but its attraction is
 138 T H E S O U T H C OA S T • • P l a k i a s lonelyplanet.com

more historical, as it is one huge and relatively allel one block back. The bus stop is at the
featureless cavern, strewn with old timber and middle of the waterfront.
disused rail tracks. Plakias has two ATMs, while Monza Travel
Agency (%28320 31882), near the bus stop, ar-
ranges car and bike hire and excursions. The
THE SOUTH COAST post office is on the street off Monza Travel.
You can check mail at Frame (%28320 31522; per
As you near the coast from Spili the scenery hr €4; h9am-late) above the supermarket or at the
becomes more dramatic and takes in marvel- Youth Hostel Plakias (%28320 32118; per hr €3.60).
lous views of the Libyan sea. Heading west
then south towards the coast at Plakias you Activities
will pass through the dramatic Kourtaliotis Gorge There are well-worn walking paths to the sce-
through which the river Megalopotamos rum- nic village of Sellia, the Moni Finika, Lefko-
RETHYMNO

bles on its way to the sea at Preveli Beach. North gia, and a lovely walk along the spectacular
of Plakias is the spectacular Kotsifou Gorge. Kourtaliotis Gorge to Moni Preveli. An easy
30-minute uphill path to Myrthios begins just
PLAKIAS ΠΛΑΚΙΑΣ before the youth hostel.
pop 186 For guided walking tours, including a walk
Plakias is one of the liveliest resort towns on to Preveli beach that gets you back by boat
the southern coast. The well run youth hostel (€30), contact Anso Travel (%28320 31712; www.anso
helps attract a younger crowd than many of travel.com). You can arrange to go horse riding
the resorts nearby. The mid-size hotels and through the Alianthos Beach Hotel (%28320 31196),
domatia in town attract a mix of package and which also offers pony rides for children.
independent travellers. Off-season it attracts There are a several diving operators in
many families and an older crowd. town. One of the first was Kalypso Rocks’ Palace
Plakias has some decent eating options, Diving Centre (%28320 31895; www.kalypsodivingcenter
good regional walks, a large sandy beach and .com), which has an impressive dive base nearby
enough activities and nightlife to keep you offering a range of scuba diving and snorkel-
entertained. It is also a good base from which ling activities. Another well-respected opera-
to explore the region, with a number of excel- tion is Phoenix Diving Club (%28320 31206; www
lent beaches nearby. .scubacrete.com).
For boat trips (return €12) to Preveli try the fish-
Orientation & Information erman owner of Tasomanolis taverna (right).
It’s easy to find your way around. The main Avid readers will appreciate the Plakias Lend-
street skirts the beach and another runs par- ing Library (h9.30am-12.30pm Sun, Mon & Wed, 5-7.30pm

HIKING ON MT PSILORITIS
From the Nida Plateau you can join the east–west E4 trail for the ascent to the summit of Psilori-
tis known as Timios Stavros (Holy Cross). The return hike to the summit can be done in about
seven hours from Nida. While you don’t need to be an alpine mountaineer, it is a long slog and
the views from the summit may be marred by heat haze or cloud cover. Shortly after leaving
Nida a spur track leads to Ideon Andron Cave, with an altitude of 1495m. Along the way to the
summit a number of mitata provide occasional sheltering opportunities should the weather turn
inclement, while at the summit of Psiloritis itself is a twin-domed, small dry-stone chapel.
An alternative access or exit route begins (or ends) at Fourfouras on the edge of the Amari
Valley and a further 3½-hour hike to the west from the summit. There is a mountain refuge
about halfway along this trail. From Fourfouras you can find onward transport, or continue to
follow the E4 to Spili. A third access/exit route from the mountain runs to the south and meets
the village of Kamares (five hours). Halfway along this track you will pass the Kamares cave, in
which a large collection of painted Minoan urns was found, and which is a popular day hike in
its own right for visitors to the southern side of Psiloritis.
The best map for walking in this region is the Anavasi 1:25,000 map of Psiloritis (Mt Ida) (see
p215).
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H C OA S T • • P l a k i a s 139

Tue, Thu & Sat), just past the Youth Hostel, which mantic tamarisk-shaded terrace overlooking
has amassed an excellent collection of books, the sea. It has a good choice of Cretan dishes
videos and DVDs in several languages. and fresh fish and a daily specials board.
Lisseos (%28320 31479; dishes €5.30-8.50; hfrom
Sleeping 7pm) The location below the road near the
Most accommodation is signposted on com- bridge is uninspiring, but this place is well
munal wooden sign boards on the main road. known for specialising in mayirefta – the best
Check www.plakias-filoxenia.gr for additional home-style cooking in town.
hotel information. Tasomanolis (%28320 31129; mixed fish for 2 €16.50)
Camping Apollonia (%28320 31318; per adult/tent This traditional fish taverna on the western
€5.50/3.50; s) On the right of the main ap- end of the beach is run by a keen fisherman.
proach road to Plakias, the site is shaded, but You can sample his catch on a pleasant terrace
rather scruffy and run down. overlooking the beach, grilled and accompa-

RETHYMNO
Youth Hostel Plakias (%28320 32118; www.yhplakias nied with wild greens and wine.
.com; dm €9; i) For independent travellers this oIliomanolis (%28320 51053; mains €4-6)
is the place to stay in Plakias. British manager It’s worth the drive through the spectacu-
Chris has created a friendly place with spotless lar Kotsifou Gorge to eat hearty home-style
dorms, refurbished toilets and showers, green Cretan food at in the village of Kanevos, in
lawns, a shady porch, volleyball court and In- a lovely setting with the gorge on one side
ternet access. The atmosphere is helped along and a forest on the other. This place is re-
by Chris’ eclectic music collection. It’s a 10- nowned for its excellent food, and owner
minute signposted walk from the bus stop. Maria is happy to show you the tempting
Castello (%/fax 28320 31112; r/studio €30/33; pa) array of food in the kitchen (between 20 and
It is the relaxed owner Christos and his leafy 25 dishes each day). The meat is mostly their
and shady garden that makes this place a own produce and they sell their own wine,
happy haven. All rooms are cool, clean and olive oil and raki.
fridge-equipped and most have cooking facili- A popular and cheap souvlaki place fre-
ties and big shady balconies. There are also big quented by the hostel crowd is Nikos Souvlaki
two-bedroom apartments ideal for families (%28320 31921), but locals reliably swear by
(€45 to €55). Air-con is an extra €5. the souvlaki and grills at To Xehoristo (%28320
Paligremnos Studios (%28320 31835; www.paligrem 31214). Also recommended are Sifis (%28320
nos.com; r €35-40; a) At far eastern end of the 31001) for grills and Siroko (%28320 32055) just
beach, these family-run studios are dated past Tasomanolis.
but are a decent budget option. They have
kitchenettes and some have great sea views Entertainment
from the balconies. There is an attached shady Plakias has a good nightlife scene in the sum-
taverna. mer. Travellers tend to gravitate to a couple of
Pension Thetis (%28320 31430; thetisstudios@gmail key hang-outs, including the excellent beach
.com; studios €45-70; a) This is a very pleasant bar in the middle of the beach. The younger
and clean family-oriented set of studios. The hostel crowd congregate at Ostraco, while
refurbished rooms have fridge, basic cooking Finikas is also popular.
facilities, coffee maker and satellite TV. Relax
in the cool and shady garden where there is a Getting There & Away
small playground for kids. In summer there are six buses a day to
Alianthos Garden Hotel (%28320 31280; www.al Rethymno (€3.50, one hour). It’s possible to
ianthos.gr; d incl breakfast €70; as) This modern get to Agia Galini from Plakias by catching
hotel is at the entrance to town next to the a Rethymno bus to the Koxare junction (re-
road overlooking the sea. It’s comfortably ferred to as Bale on timetables) and waiting
furnished in traditional Cretan style. for a bus to Agia Galini. Plakias has good bus
connections in summer, but virtually none in
Eating winter. The bus stop has a timetable.
The waterfront restaurants that tout picture
menus are generally mediocre. Getting Around
Taverna Christos (%28320 31472; specials €5-11) Cars Alianthos (%28320 31851; www.alianthos.com)
This established waterfront taverna has a ro- Reliable car-hire outlet.
 140 T H E S O U T H C OA S T • • A r o u n d P l a k i a s lonelyplanet.com

Easy Ride (%28320 20052; www.easyride.gr) Close

to the post office. Rents out mountain bikes, scooters and DETOUR: ASOMATOS
motorcycles. On the road to Plakias and Preveli, in the vil-
lage of Asomatos, is the fascinating private
AROUND PLAKIAS Museum of Papa Mihalis Georgoulakis
Myrthios Μύρθιος (% 28320 31674; www.plakias.net; admission
pop 208 €2.50; h 10am-3pm). The octogenarian
This pleasant village perched on a hillside priest has amassed an extraordinary col-
above Plakias is an alternative to staying in lection of ecclesiastical and historical ar-
Plakias. It is within easy reach of the beach tefacts, memorabilia, weapons, letters and
and action if you have a car (it’s about 20 min- posters from the Cretan resistance, icons
utes from Plakias on foot) and enjoys some and household items. It is displayed in a
spectacular views over Plakias Bay. quirky, cluttered house in the middle of
RETHYMNO

Niki’s Studios & Rooms (%28320 31593; r/studio/tr the village, which has a charming internal
€25/30/40; a) has basic comfortable rooms, plus courtyard and a small café where you can
studios with kitchenette, fridge and air-con. buy the family’s raki and oil.
oAnna Apartments (%6973 324 775; www
.annaview.com; d studios €39-55; a) boasts attractive
and spacious studios and apartments that are monasteries, it played a significant role in
perfect for longer stays. They have big balco- the islanders’ rebellion against Turkish rule.
nies, full-size kitchens, and are more comfort- It became a centre of resistance during 1866,
able and homey than the norm. causing the Turks to set fire to it and destroy
Stefanos Village (%28320 32252; www.plakias.com; surrounding crops. After the Battle of Crete
studio/apt from €68/88; s), on the outskirts of the in WWII, many Allied soldiers were shel-
village, is an excellent midrange option, with tered here before their evacuation to Egypt.
an enticing horizon pool with panoramic In retaliation, the Germans plundered
views. The family-run three-level complex the monastery.
has self-catering studios and apartments with The monastery’s museum contains a can-
spacious balconies and sea views. Most have delabra presented by grateful British soldiers
fully equipped kitchens. after the war. Built in 1836, the church is worth
oPlateia (%28320 31560; mains €5.50-9), a visit for its excellent collection of more than
better known as Friderikos’ (after the friendly 100 icons, some dating back to the early 17th
owner), has good views from the stone-built century. There are several fine works by the
courtyard and excellent food that appeals to monk Mihail Prevelis, including a wonderful
a more discerning local palate. Pork fricassee icon screen containing a gaily painted Adam
served with potatoes is a good bet, along with and Eve in Paradise in the middle of the altar.
a drop of the house wine. About 1km before the monastery, a road
leads downhill to a large car park (€2) from
Moni Preveli Μονή Πρέβελη where a steep foot track leads you 425 steps
The well-maintained Moni Preveli (%28320 down to Preveli Beach.
31246; www.preveli.org; admission €2.50; h8am-7pm From June through August there are four
mid Mar-May, 9am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Jun-Oct) stands buses daily from Rethymno to Moni Preveli
in splendid isolation high above the Libyan (€3.90, 1¼hr).
sea. On the way up there is a prominent war
memorial on the cliffs with statues of a gun- Preveli Beach Παραλία Πρέβελη
toting priest and a Commonwealth soldier. Known officially as Paralia Finikodasous
From the car park outside the monastery, (Palm Beach), Preveli Beach, at the mouth of
there’s a lookout with a stunning panoramic the Kourtaliotis Gorge, is one of Crete’s most
view over the southern coast. photographed and popular beaches. The river
The origins of the monastery are unclear Megalopotamos meets the back end of the
because most historical documents were lost beach before it conveniently loops around
in the many attacks inflicted upon it over its assorted bathers and empties into the
the centuries. The year ‘1701’ is carved on Libyan sea. It’s fringed with oleander bushes
the monastery fountain but it may have been and palm trees and used to be popular with
founded much earlier. Like most of Crete’s freelance campers before that simple pleasure
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H C OA S T • • Agi o s Pa v l o s & T r i o p e t r a 141

was officially outlawed. The beach is mainly arguably one of the most beautiful and serene
sand, has some natural shade at either end – stretches of unspoilt coastline in Crete.
although umbrellas and loungers can be Agios Pavlos claims to be the location from
hired – and enjoys cool and clean protected where Icarus and Daedalus took their historic
water that is ideal for swimming and diving. flight in ancient mythology, although nearby
There are a couple of seasonal snack bars. Agia Galini makes the same claim.
Walk up the palm-lined banks of the river Agios Pavlos is little more than a few rooms
and you’ll come to cold, freshwater pools and tavernas around a small picturesque cove
ideal for a swim. There are also pedal boats with a sandy beach. There are some stunning
for hire. rock formations in the cliffs leading to the first
A steep path leads down to the beach from of three spectacular sandy coves (about a 10-
a car park about 1km before Moni Preveli. minute walk, then it gets tougher). The sand
Alternatively, you can drive to within several dunes reach all the way to the top, which is

RETHYMNO
hundred metres of the beach by following a stunning but can get a bit nasty on very windy
signposted, 5km-long, drivable dirt road from days. The furthest coves are the least busy, al-
a stone bridge just off the Moni Preveli main though there are a few thatched umbrellas and
road, where it’s worthwhile stop for lunch or lounges scattered around for your comfort.
refreshments at Gefyra (%69367 04126). The road Triopetra, named after the three giant rocks
ends at Amoudi beach, from where you can jutting out of the sea just off the coast, can
walk 500m west over the headland and you’re be reached from Agios Pavlos (about 300m
home. You can also get to Preveli Beach from is drivable dirt road) or via a 12km windy
Plakias by boat from June through August or asphalt road from the village of Akoumia,
by taxi boat from Agia Galini. on the Rethymno-Agia Galini road. Just past
Akoumia there is the Byzantine church of
Beaches Around Plakias Metamorphosis tou Sotira, which has fine fres-
Between Plakias and Preveli Beach there are coes dating from 1389.
several secluded coves popular with freelance There is also an asphalt road leading to Agia
campers and nudists. Damnoni Beach is pleasant Irini beach, via the village of Kerames.
out of high season, despite being dominated While the roads to these beaches were
by the giant Hapimag tourist complex. sealed a few years ago – and were being ex-
To the west is Souda, a quiet beach with tended to Ligres, with plans to go as far as
some rooms and a couple of tavernas. Contin- Preveli in future – they have so far not been
uing west via the village of Sellia and Rodakino spoilt by overdevelopment. There is no public
are the low-key beach settlements of Polyrizos- transport to any of these beaches.
Koraka (also known as Rodakino) with only
a handful of tavernas and a few small hotels Sleeping & Eating
scattered along a pleasant stretch of beach. It’s Agios Pavlos Hotel & Taverna (%28320 71104; www
ideal if you want a quiet beach to chill out at .agiospavloshotel.gr; Agia Irini; d €30-40) A family-run
for a few days. place on Agia Irini beach with simple rooms
Panorama (%28320 32179; d €30-40; a), at the in the main building. It has small balconies
far western end of Rodakino beach, has de- overlooking the sea, as well as rooms under
cent, budget rooms with a view built on a the shady terrace below the taverna (mayirefta
rise above the beach, behind the thatched- €4.50 to €7), which has good Cretan food. The
roof taverna. The best rooms are the newer café-bar next door is the place for breakfast
self-catering studios, with tasteful tiles floors, and drinks, and has internet facilities. The
well-stocked kitchenettes, double beds, read- same family also has large self-contained
ing lights and new furniture. studios at the Kavos Melissa complex (r €45)
further up on the cliff.
AGIOS PAVLOS & TRIOPETRA Yirogiali Taverna & Rooms (%6974 559 119; Trio-
ΑΓΙΟΣ ΠΑΥΛΟΣ & ΤΡΙΟΠΕΤΡΑ petra; d/tr €35/40; a) Right on the Triopetra’s
It’s not surprising that the fabulous remote long beach is this place run by two brothers,
sandy beaches of Agios Pavlos and Triopetra with their mother cooking in the kitchen.
have been chosen for yoga retreats (see p211). The rooms are a recent addition, with mar-
These unspoilt and peaceful beaches sur- ble floors and bathrooms, attractive timber
rounded by sand dunes and rugged cliffs are furniture, fridge, TV and balconies.
 142 T H E S O U T H C OA S T • • Agi a G a l i n i Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Pavlos Taverna Pension (%/fax 28310 25189; www Sleeping

.triopetra.com.gr; d/tr/q €30/35/45) For real isolation, There is no shortage of places to stay in Agia
this pension on the smaller eastern beach at Galini, but a large percentage of the accom-
Triopetra has decent rooms with small kitch- modation is pre-booked by tour operators in
ens and great sea views behind the taverna, peak season.
which serves local meat and fresh fish and lob- Adonis (%28320 91333; www.agia-galini.com; r €50-
ster (that Pavlos, the owner, normally catches) 120; as) This pleasant hotel is spread over
and home-grown organic produce. several buildings but the rooms, studios and
Another isolated option is the Ligres Beach apartments all have use of the large pool.
Taverna (%6972 524 425), a small family-run place Rooms are light and clean and most have
with simple rooms next to a stunning beach. been refurbished. Some have balconies with
It’s signposted from Kerames village. sea views.
Stohos Rooms & Taverna (%28320 91433; d incl
RETHYMNO

AGIA GALINI ΑΓΙΑ ΓΑΛΗΝΗ breakfast €40-45; a) On the main beach, with
pop 855 apartments upstairs with kitchenettes and big
Agia Galini (a-ya ga-lee-nee) is another erst- balconies, and huge studios downstairs which
while picturesque fishing village where tour- are ideal for families or groups. Friendly Fan-
ism and overdevelopment has spoilt much of ourios presides over the excellent taverna
the original charm. Agia Galini was once a downstairs. Try the kleftiko or other clay-oven
port of the ancient settlement of Sybritos. dishes (€8.50).
Hemmed in against the sea by large Erofili Hotel (%28320 91319; hotelerofili@hotmail
sandstone cliffs and phalanxes of hotels and .com; d incl breakfast €30-40; a) Run by the laid-
domatia, Agia Galini can be rather claus- back Miro and his turtle mascot, this pleasant
trophobic. It is probably the most touristy 10-room hotel has more character than most.
southern beach resort, though inoffensive There are plain rooms and some with air-con,
compared to the north coast. While it still fridge and TV. All have great sea views and
gets lively during peak season, and has a the lower rooms have a garden terrace. It’s
great atmosphere at night, it has become a signposted to the right off the main road. Miro
more sedate resort attracting a middle-aged runs the music bar Yamas.
crowd and families. It’s a convenient base to Hotel Rea (%/fax 28320 91390; www.hoter-rea.messara
visit Phaestos and Agia Triada, and although .de; s/d €30/35; a) On the main road near the
the town beach is crowded there are boats to port, this budget hotel is dated but has clean,
better beaches. reasonably sized twin and double rooms
with pine furniture. The bathrooms are basic
Orientation & Information but the front rooms have balconies with
You can get information at www.agia-galini sea views.
.com. The bus station is at the top of the ap- Agapitos Rooms (%28320 91164; d/tr/q €30/35/40;
proach road. The post office is just past the a) They don’t have a view but these homely
bus stop. There are ATMs and travel agen- studios halfway down the hill are reasonable
cies with currency exchange. Many cafés have value, with balconies and back porches, and
internet access, including Hoi Polloi (%28320 some have new bathrooms.
91102; per hr €4; h9am-late), and there is a laundry Agia Galini Camping (%28320 91386; sites per person
(h10am-2pm & 5-9pm) in the street opposite the €6, tents €4) Next to the beach, 2.5km east of
post office. the town, this well-run camping ground is
signposted off the Iraklio-Agia Galini road.
Tours It’s well shaded and has a pool, restaurant
Near the port, Cretan Holidays (%28320 91241) and mini-market.
can assist with accommodation and offers a
range of bus tours including Knossos (€42); Eating
a western Crete tour that includes Hania, Madame Hortense (%28320 91351; Greek dishes
Rethymno and Arkadi (€45); Samaria Gorge €4.50-13) The most atmospheric and elegant
(€44); and a tour of villages and farms where restaurant in town is on the top floor of the
you sample local cuisine (€45). It also has three-level Zorbas complex enjoying great
day-long boat trips to Agiofarango, including views of the harbour. Cuisine is Greek Medi-
lunch (€44). terranean, and they do steaks (€12).
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • Pa n o r m o 143

La Strada (%28320 91053; pizzas €5.50-7.50, pastas the beaches are not always the most pristine,
€5-6) On the first street left of the bus station, the village does have a relaxed folksy atmos-
this place has excellent pizzas, pastas and phere and makes for a quieter alternative to
risottos. the occasionally claustrophobic scene imme-
Faros (%28320 91346; fish dishes €7-11) Inland diately east of Rethymno and at nearby Bali.
from the harbour, this no-frills place is one There are a couple of big hotel complexes
of the oldest fish tavernas in town, dishing to the west of the town, but Panormo itself
up reasonably priced fresh fish (€45 per kg) as retains an authentic village feel. In summer,
well as a range of grills and mayirefta. concerts and cultural events are held in the
Kostas (%28320 91323; fish dishes €6-27) Right on cultural centre in a restored carob factory
the beach at the eastern end, this established behind the bus stop.
fish taverna decked out in classic blue and Panormo was once a busy commercial
white is known for its excellent fresh fish port for citrus and carob exports. The village

RETHYMNO
and seafood and is always packed with locals. was built on the site of an ancient settlement,
There’s a big range of mezedes and pricey but of which little is known. Coins found here
excellent seafood. indicate that the village flourished from the
Also recommended are Romantika, at the 1st to the 9th centuries AD, when it was de-
eastern end of the beach and Stohos Taverna stroyed by the Saracens. There was once an
(see opposite). The Petrino ouzeri in town has early Christian basilica, probably built around
an authentic atmosphere and fine mezedes. the 6th century, and there are the ruins of a
Genoese castle on the harbour.
Getting There & Away
BUS Orientation & Information
In peak season there are six buses each day to The bus stop is on the main road outside of
Iraklio (€7.10, two hours), six to Rethymno town. The post office is one block behind the
(€5.30, 1½ hours) and five to Phaestos and remains of the castle. There is an ATM in one
Matala (€2.80, 40 to 45 minutes). of the hotels just outside Panormo. A tourist
mini-train leaves from the main street for the
TAXI BOAT nearby Melidoni Cave (p135) and the pottery
In summer there are daily boats from the village of Margarites (p134). A well-regarded
harbour to the beaches of Agios Giorgios, Cretan cooking course is run from Panormo;
Agiofarango and Preveli Beach, with fares see p63 for details.
ranging from €10 to €20. Further information can be found at www
.panormo.com.
Getting Around
Opposite the post office, Mano’s Bike (%28320 Sleeping & Eating
91551) rents out scooters and motorcycles, Villa Kynthia (%28340 51102; www.kynthia.gr; d €129-
while Monza Travel (%28320 91278) rents out cars 171; as) This historic old mansion in the
and organises bus excursions. village centre has been lovingly restored and
converted into a charming B&B-style hotel
decorated with iron beds, antique furnishings
THE NORTHEAST COAST and murals. One of the rooms has an elaborate
frieze of the Odyssey. There is one family-size
Once you clear the resort strip, the coastline apartment. The pool and breakfast area are in
east of Rethymno is indented and pockmarked a beautiful private garden courtyard.
with watery caves and isolated coves that are Lucy’s Pension (%28340 51212; www.lucy.gr; d/studio
only accessible by boat. The chief resorts along €40/45; a) Well signposted in the centre of
the north coast are Bali and Panormo. town, the owner Lucy has dated but well-
maintained simple rooms with kitchenette
PANORMO ΠΆΝΟΡΜΟ and balconies. The top rooms have sea views.
pop 873 She also manages the Castello apartments on
Panormo is one of the lesser-known and rela- the waterfront, which are light-filled, spacious
tively unspoilt beach towns on the northern and have TV and small kitchens.
coast. It has a couple of good sandy beaches Konaki Studio-Apartments (%28340 51026; www
and is easy to get to from Rethymno. While .geocities.com/konakihotel; studios €50;s) The garden
 144 T H E N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • B a l i Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

and pool of this small complex are nicer than Livadi Beach (Paradise), followed by Varkotopo
the rooms, but this friendly hotel is one of the (Kyma) and then the port beach Limani (Bali
more pleasant options. It’s up above the beach Beach), now connected to the smaller Limana-
on the northern side of town. kia beach. Over the bluff at the northern end
To Steki tou Sifaka (%28340 51230; mains €5-7.50) is the tiny Karavostasi cove (Evita), reached
This cosy taverna-cum-ouzerie is on a paved on foot along a coastal path from the port or a
street a block back from the waterfront. It has circuitous drive over the cliff tops.
good home-style Cretan food. Pick from the There is an ATM near the coast guard or
specials board out front. you can change money in one of the travel
Angira (%28340 51022; grills €5.50-8) A giant agencies or at Racer Rent-a-Car (see oppo-
anchor on the eastern end of the harbour site), on the left as you enter town.
points you to this respected seaside fish tav- Behind the port, Bali Net Cafe (%28340 94110;
erna, which serves fresh locally caught fish per hr €3; h10am-midnight) has high-speed access,
RETHYMNO

and seafood, as well as the usual grills and full services and a separate games room. If
Cretan specialties. you don’t have your own wheels, you can get
You could also try Captains’ House (%28340 around to the different beaches on the mini-
51352) on the western end of the port for fresh train Bali Express (one way €2).
fish, or the faux castle Taverna Kastro (%28340
51362), near the bus stop, which has a pleasant Activities
courtyard and good mezedes. Bali and it is a popular base for divers and
has a variety of water sports. Near the port,
Getting There & Away Hippocampos Dive Centre (%28340 94193; www.hippo
Buses from Rethymno go to Panormo every campos.com; dives incl equipment from €31) is a well-
20 minutes (€2, 25 minutes). Buses from run operation offering a range of beginner’s
Rethymno to Iraklio stop on the main road and advanced dives and snorkelling. On the
just outside of town. port, Water Sports Lefteris (%28340 94102; cat
[email protected]) will rent you a pedal boat or
BALI ΠΠΑΛΊ canoe (€8 to €10 an hour), a motorboat (€30
pop 330 for two hours) or a jet ski (€40 for 15 min-
Bali, 38km east of Rethymno and 51km west utes). Parasailing costs €40 for a 15-minute
of Iraklio, has one of the most stunning set- flight and there are day-long and sunset
tings on the northern coast, with a series of cruises (€25).
little coves strung along the indented shore,
marked by hills, promontories and narrow Sleeping
sandy beaches. But helter-skelter development There is little budget accommodation in Bali,
around the coast has significantly marred the with most of it being designed for couples and
natural beauty of this former fishing hamlet families on longer holidays, or taken over by
and the narrow beaches are overcrowded and package-holiday groups. Bookings are wise
claustrophobic in the summer. Still, it’s not a in high season.
bad place to rent a boat and get the full effect Sunrise Apartments (%28340 94267; d/apt €40/50;
of the dramatic landscape. a) Right on Evita Beach, the rooms are very
The name Bali has nothing to do with its clean, pleasant and spacious, with fridge and
tropical namesake in Indonesia; it means basic cooking facilities. The owners will pick
‘honey’ in Turkish, as excellent honey was up guests from Iraklio airport.
once collected and processed here. In antiq- Bali Blue Bay (%28340 20111; [email protected]; d
uity the place was known as Astali, although incl breakfast €50; as) This sleek modern hotel
no traces of ancient Astali now remain. has great views over Bali from the rooms and
rooftop pool. The rooms are spacious and
Orientation & Information boast a tasteful, contemporary design and are
Bali is a rather spread-out settlement and it is a equipped with TV, fridge and hairdryers.
long and undulating walk from one end to the Apartments Ikonomakis (%28340 94125; d/q
other – 25 minutes or more. The village is punc- €35/65; a) This place is centrally located on
tuated by a series of coves that are better known a quiet street slightly inland from the port,
by the hotels or taverns that dominate them and was recently refurbished. The rooms are
than by their proper names. So you have the big comfortable and have kitchenettes.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com T H E N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • B a l i 145

Sea View Apartments (%28340 94214; d €60; out home-style cooking and excellent grills
a) Around the bluff from the port (or ac- on a pleasant vine-covered terrace. They
cessed by car from the back road) this pastel- predominantly use their own fresh produce
coloured apartment complex has a great wa- and meat.
terfront setting. The two-room apartments Panorama (%28340 94217; mains €5-8.50) With
are spacious and comfortable, thought the a prime position overlooking the port, this
décor is uninspiring. place is popular and specialises in fresh fish
and home-style Cretan food. It’s one of the
Eating oldest and most respected establishments in
Taverna Karavostasi (%28340 94267; Greek specials town.
€4.50-6.50) Belonging to Sunrise Apartments,
this cosy little eatery 30m back from Evita Getting There & Around
Beach offers simple home cooking and snacks. Buses from Rethymno to Iraklio (€5.90) drop

RETHYMNO
Okra with lamb is a popular dish. you at the main road, from where it is a 2km
Taverna Nest (%28340 94289; grills €5-9) This walk to the port of Bali. For rentals, Racer Rent-
family taverna just up from the port near the a-Car (%28340 94149; fax 28340 94249) has an office
car park is not on the waterfront, but dishes at the entrance to town and one at the port.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
146

Iraklio Ηρακλειο
Iraklio is Crete’s most brash and dynamic region, home to almost half the island’s popula-
tion, the bulk of its commercial and agricultural activity and Crete’s most important and
fascinating archaeological sites. The island’s rich and unique cultural heritage comes alive
when traipsing through the Minoan palaces of Knossos, Phaestos, Agia Triada, Gortyna and
Malia. The many treasures unearthed at these sites are in the exceptional collection of the
archaeological museum in the city of Iraklio – the island’s capital and usual port of entry.

However, Iraklio is a diverse region that embodies some of the best and worst of Crete.
Sadly, much of the northern coast has surrendered to tourism, with endless hotels lining the
beaches. The overdeveloped resorts of Malia and Hersonisos are the island’s contribution to
the party scene, though they are struggling to deal with the less savoury elements of this
type of tourism. Amongst it all, the north is also home to some exclusive resorts, Crete’s
only international standard golf course and a new aquarium.

But venturing away from the north coast, you enter the region’s rural heart and the centre
IRAKLIO

of the island’s wine industry, which is becoming more sophisticated and visitor-friendly. Ex-
ploring traditional inland villages you can get a glimpse of the old Crete, while in Arhanes,
you will see a thriving modern village. The region’s natural beauty can be enjoyed in villages
such as Zaros, where you can walk the Rouvas Gorge and visit lovely monasteries in the
mountains. The southern mountains are popular climbing country.

In the quieter and less accessible southern coast, the ex-hippy hangout of Matala is the
only really developed resort. For a more tranquil experience, you can escape to quieter
beaches at Kastri and Keratokambos or for total isolation, a dramatic mountain drive leads
to the laid-back community of Lendas and the remote surrounding beaches.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Exploring the ruins of the Minoan civilisation

at Knossos (p158), Phaestos (p169) and
Malia (p178) Iraklio

„ Indulging in the lively nightlife and café Knossos

Malia
scene of the island’s capital, Iraklio (p156)
„ Viewing the extraordinary collection of
Iraklio’s archaeological museum (p149) Zaros

„ Unwinding on the lovely beaches of Matala Phaestos

(p172) and Lendas (p176) on the south
coast Matala
Lendas
„ Enjoying the cool mountain air and monas-
teries of Zaros (p166)
lonelyplanet.com I R A K L I O • • H i s t o r y 147

IRAKLIO ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΟ The city became known as Handakas until

Crete was sold to the Venetians in 1204 and
they named it Candia. The Venetians built
pop 137,390 magnificent public buildings and churches,
Bustling Iraklio (also called Heraklion) can and barricaded themselves inside the fortress
be a shock to the senses when you first arrive when necessary to protect themselves against
with a Greek island holiday in mind. Crete’s a rebellious populace.
hectic, noisy and traffic-ridden capital is a Under the Venetians, Candia became a cen-
sprawling modern metropolis of concrete tre for the arts and home to painters such as
apartment blocks that lacks the architectural Damaskinos and El Greco. When the Turks
charms of Rethymno and Hania. captured Constantinople, the walls of Candia’s
Yet Greece’s fifth-largest city has undergone fortress were extended in anticipation of the
a significant makeover in recent years and is growing Turkish menace. Although the Turks
experiencing a period of urban renewal. The quickly overran the island in 1648, it took them
waterfront redevelopment has made a marked 21 years to penetrate the walls of Candia.
difference and the city’s historic centre has Other European countries sent defenders
been turned into pleasant pedestrian precinct and supplies from time to time, but it was
where its historic monuments are brought mainly the strength of the walls that kept the
to the fore. Turks at bay. The Turks finally resorted to
The archaeological museum in Iraklio and bribing a Venetian colonel to reveal the wall’s
the palace at Knossos are a window into Mi- weak points and thus were able to capture
noan culture, but Iraklio abounds in other Candia in 1669. Casualties were high on both
reminders of its turbulent history. The 14th- sides; the Venetian defenders lost 30,000 men
century Venetian walls and fortress under- and the Turks lost 118,000.
score the importance of Iraklio (then called Under the Turks the city became known

IRAKLIO
Candia) to the Venetians, and many monu- as Megalo Kastro (Big Castle) and a cloud of
ments date from Venetian occupation, notably darkness descended. Artistic life withered and
the Morosini Fountain, the Venetian Loggia many Cretans fled or were massacred.
and Agios Markos Basilica. In August 1898, a Turkish mob massacred
Iraklio has a certain urban sophistication, hundreds of Cretans, 17 British soldiers and
with a thriving café and restaurant scene, the the British Consul. Within weeks, a squadron
island’s best shopping and lively nightlife. of British ships steamed into Iraklio’s harbour
It can grow on you if you take the time to and ended Turkish rule.
explore its nuances, but people wanting to Hania became the capital of independent
a relaxing holiday tend to stay long enough Crete at the end of Turkish rule, but Can-
for an obligatory visit to the museum and dia’s central location soon saw it emerge as
Knossos, before escaping to more immediately the commercial centre. It was renamed Irak-
inviting parts of the island. lio and resumed its position as the island’s
capital in 1971.
HISTORY The city suffered badly in WWII, when
Iraklio is believed to have been settled since most of the old Venetian and Turkish town
the Neolithic age. Little is known about the was destroyed by bombing.
intervening years, but in AD 824 Iraklio was
conquered by the Saracens and became known ORIENTATION
as Rabdh el Khandak (Castle of the Ditch), Iraklio’s has two main squares. Plateia Venize-
after the moat that surrounded their fortified lou, better known as the Lion Square because
town. It was reputedly the slave-trade capital of its landmark Morosini Fountain, is in the
of the eastern Mediterranean and the launch- heart of the city, while the sprawling Plateia
ing pad for the region’s notorious pirates. Eleftherias is towards the harbour. The pedes-
Byzantine troops finally ousted the Arabs trian streets leading off the fountain are the
after a siege, in AD 961, that lasted almost a hub of the city’s lively café and dining scene.
year. The Byzantine leader Nikiforos Fokas Iraklio has two intercity bus stations (see
made a lasting impression upon the Arabs by p158). The ferry port is 500m to the east of
chopping off the heads of his prisoners and the old port. The airport is about 5km east
throwing them over the fortress walls. of the centre.
 IRAKLIO
0 10 km
IRAKLIO REGION 0 6 miles
Cape Stavros To the Dia
To Piraeus Cyclades
Panormo Agia
To Rethymno Pelagia
(11km); Hania Bali
(70km)
Melidoni
Cave Sises Fodele
SEA OF CRETE
Perama Iraklio
Bay
Iraklio
Gournes Gouves
Drosia Marathos (Cretaquarium)
Ammoudara Hersonisos
Palace Sisi
Arolithos of Malia Milatos
Knossos Koutouloufari Stalida
Moni Zoniana Tylisos
Arkadiou Gonies Minoan Site
Zoniana Malia
148 I R A K L I O • • I r a k l i o R e g i o n

Anogia Skalani
Cave Sklavokambos Neapoli
RETHYMNO To Agios
Fournis Nikolaos (14km);
Apostoli Myrtia Avdou
Mt Psiloritis Anemospilia Ierapetra (49km)
Patsos (Mt Idi) Peza
Krousonas Arhanes
(2456m)
Ideon Andron Agion Kastelli
Skinakas Vathypretro Agios
Amari Fourfouras
Cave Observatory Moni Myron Profitis Livada Tzermiado
Agia Irini Ilias Paraskies
Lake
To Rethymno Temenos Houdetsi
(36km) Kouroutes Thrapsano Psyhro
Mt Kedros IRAKLIO Dikteon LASITHI
(1777m) Kamares Cave Agios
Nithavris Cave Moni Agiou Georgios
Platanos Kamares Vrondisou Moni Agiou Arkalohori
Nikolaou
Vorizia Gergeri Panagia Mt Dikti
Zaros Agia (2143m)
Nyrritos Varvara

Males

Agia Galini Tymbaki

Vori Agii Deka Gangales Ano Viannos Pefkos
Agia Asimi
Triada
Gortyna
Mesara Kalamaki Mires Amiras
Kamilari Phaestos Myrtos
Gulf Mesohorio
Sivas
Platanos Keratokambos Tertsa
Kommos Pyrgos Kastri
Pitsidia Tsoutsouros
Listaros
Arvi
Paximadia Matala

Moni
Odigitrias
Agiofarango Mt Kofinas
Platia Peramata Kapetaniana (1236m) LIBYAN SEA
Lendas
Lebena
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com I R A K L I O • • I n f o r m a t i o n 149

INFORMATION Post
Bookshops Post office (%2810 289 995; Plateia Daskalogianni;
Newsstand (%2810 220 135; Plateia Venizelou) Foreign h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat)
press and magazines, guidebooks, maps and books on Crete.
Planet International Bookshop (%2810 289 605; Tourist Information
Handakos 73) Excellent selection of literature, history and EOT (Greek National Tourism Organisation; %2810
travel books. 246 299; Xanthoudidou 1; h8.30am-8.30pm Apr-Oct,
Road Editions (%2810 344 610; Handakos 29) A 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar) Has brochures and maps if you are
specialist travel bookshop with a great selection of maps lucky; opposite the archaeological museum. There is also a
and guidebooks. tourist information office inside Bus Station A.

Emergency Travel Agencies

Tourist police (%2810 210 171; Dikeosynis 10; Skoutelis Travel (%2810 280 808; www.skoutelis-
h7am-10pm) travel.gr; 25 Avgoustou 24) Helpful agent, makes airline
and ferry bookings, arranges excursions, accommodation
Internet Access and car hire and has useful ferry information online.
In Spot Internet Cafe (%2810 300 225; Koraï 6; per
hr €2.40, midnight-noon €1.20; h24hr) High-speed SIGHTS
access, printers, burners and games. Archaeological Museum of Iraklio
Netc@fe (1878 4; per hr €1.50; h10am-2am) Has full This outstanding museum (%2810 279 000; Xan-
services. thoudidou 2 (temp entry from Hatzidakis); admission €4, incl
Sportc@fe (cnr 25 Avgoustou & Zotou; per hr €1; Knossos €10; h1-7.30pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-
h24hr) Dimly lit, smoky and packed with gamers. Oct; 8am-3pm Tue-Sun, noon-3pm Mon late Oct-early Apr)
is second in size and importance only to the
Internet Resources National Archaeological Museum in Athens

IRAKLIO
www.heraklion-city.gr The municipality site because of its unique and extensive Minoan
collection. The museum was undergoing a
Laundry major €21 million restoration, with the re-
Most laundries charge from €6 for a wash vamped museum expected to open in 2009. In
and dry. the meantime, highlights of the collection are
Inter Laundry (%2810 343 660; Mirabelou 25; on display in a compact temporary exhibition
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) being housed in another annexe on the site.
Laundry Perfect (%2810 220 969; Idomeneos & The collection covers Cretan civilization
Malikouti 32; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) from Neolithic times until the Roman empire
Wash Centre (%2810 242 766; Epimenidou 38; and includes pottery, jewellery, figurines and
h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat) sarcophagi, as well as some famous frescoes,
mostly from Knossos and Agia Triada. All
Left Luggage testify to the remarkable imagination and
Bus Station A (%2810 246 538; per day €2;
h6.30am-8pm)
Iraklio Airport Luggage Service (%2810 397 349; HERCULEAN CITY
from €2.50-5; h24hr) Near the local bus stop. After King Minos’ wife, Pasiphae, gave birth
Laundry Washsalon (%2810 280 858; Handakos 18; to the Minotaur, her lover (the bull) went
per day €3) wild and laid waste to the Cretan country-
side. Fortunately, help was at hand in the
Medical Services form of iron-man Hercules (Heracles), the
Apollonia Hospital (%2810 229 713; Mousourou) man who killed a lion with his bare hands.
Inside the old walls. His voyage to Crete to kill the bull was
University Hospital (%2810 392 111) At Voutes, 5km the seventh of his 12 mighty labours. As
south of Iraklio, it’s the city’s best equipped medical facility. the monstrous animal belched flames and
fumes, Hercules captured it single-hand-
Money edly and took it away. The ancient Cretans
Most banks are on 25 Avgoustou. were so grateful that they named Minos’
National Bank of Greece (25 Avgoustou 35) Has a port city after their superman.
24-hour exchange machine.
 150 I R A K L I O lonelyplanet.com

IRAKLIO

\
Sea of Crete

Old
Harbour

zelou
Sofokli Veni Plateia
57 18 Anglon
43
61
taki 95
Mitso 31
16

35 To Big Fish (300m); lou 62

nize 67

Lahana
Desire (300m); Ve
Ammoudara (4km) kli 27 15
fo 45

Th e o t
44
So

56 19 77

Paleo
Vyronos

oko
38 Epimenidou

stou
12 40
Greve

78

p ou
lo g o
Ha

41

25 Avgou
65 ou
nd

l
48 Alm
Skordilon
u
non
ako

yr

Ko
42 ou
io n

49
s

ron
Plateia 97 96
k

cou
Nearhou
Sfa

Koroneou 6
10 18 Ho 1 9
78 69 r ta
t so 93 75
n El
Greco 73
Park 86
Ps

39 58
ar

25 itou
mi
Gamalaki

68 7 T
li n

on 90 30 iou rabelou
Ag
g

Diktis 83
14 84 Mi

Idomeneos
11 8
IRAKLIO

32 20
Plateia ri
ika
Ko 59
54 Venizelou ra
rd

4 ï
Pe

81 70
82
Ded 63
ou
kerin alou
Kalo 79
37
Monis Odigitr 60 17 D ik e
1866 (Marke

ia s osyn
is
34 80 55 3
51
Plateia
ki
ha

Eleftherias
te

To Hania Gate (300m); 21 26

21
Ka

iri
Evan

Bus Station B (500m);

t)

Koz
18

85
University Hospital at Voutes (5km); 13
Rethymno (85km); Hania (142km)
s

Zog

66
rat
ou

Ag
iou
M
iorgi

ina f
ero
Av
g
Vassilo

Vikela Plateia 24
Kornarou
zi
m ba
To 52
Miliara
s
do

ia
Pe d
76

2
Mousourou

Harilao

Plateia
Ni k o Kyprou
laou P
lastira

28 71 72

33
iadou
Georg
53
lonelyplanet.com I R A K L I O 151

0 200 m
0 0.1 miles

29

New
Harbour

SLEEPING
Astoria Capsis Hotel................ 37 D4
Atrion......................................38 C2
Hellas Rent Rooms...................39 C3
92 Iraklio Youth Hostel.................40 C2
Quay Irini Hotel.................................41 D2
Kastro Hotel.............................42 C2
Kronos Hotel............................43 C2
Lato Hotel................................44 D2
Lena Hotel ..............................45 C2
36 Marin Hotel..............................46 E2
50 Megaron..................................47 E2
Mirabello Hotel........................48 C2
64 Rea Hotel ................................49 B2

18 EATING
To Camping Creta (16km);
91 Hersonisos (26km); Amateur Fishermans' Club.......50 F2
88 Agios Nikolaos (67km) Bitzarakis Bakery......................51 C4
46 47 Embolo....................................52 D5
Erganos................................... 53 D6
74 Fyllo Sofies...............................54 C3
Mali
kou Giakoumis Taverna..................55 C4
ti
I Avli tou Defkaliona.................56 B2
Ippokambos Ouzeri..................57 C1
Ygias

Koupes....................................58 D3
5 Loukoulos................................59 D3
Loukoumades..........................60 C4
O Vrakas.................................61 C2
23
Hatzid Parasies....................................62 C2
aki
Peri Orexeos............................63 D3

IRAKLIO
udidou

Port Garden Café......................64 E2

orf

22
au

Prassein Aloga..........................65 B2
Be
o

INFORMATION Syntagies................................. 66 D4
Xanth

os

Alpha Bank................................1 C3 Terzakis Ouzeri........................ 67 D2

uk

Do To Airport
Apollonia Hospital..................... 2 C5
(3km)
EOS ..........................................3 D4 DRINKING
In Spot Internet..........................4 D3 Draft......................................(see 75)
94 ou
ar Inter Laundry..............................5 E3 Guernica..................................68 B3
Ik
Laundry Perfect.........................6 D2 Utopia......................................69 B3
89 Laundry Washsalon....................7 C3
Municipal Cultural Office...........8 C3 ENTERTAINMENT
National Bank of Greece............9 D3 Astoria Cinema......................(see 37)
Anth

Netcafe....................................10 B2 Café Santan.............................70 D3

Newsstand...............................11 C3 Manos Hatzidakis Theatre....... 71 C6
emio

Planet International Bookshop..12 B2 Nikos Kazantzakis Theatre.......72 C6

Dim
u

okr Post Office.............................. 13 D4 Pagopiion................................73 D3

atia
s Road Editions...........................14 C3 Privilege....................................74 E2
Skoutelis Travel........................15 D2 Take Five.................................75 C3
Sportc@fé................................16 D2 Theorio.................................... 76 D5
87 Tourist Office........................(see 88) Veneto.................................... 77 D2
Tourist Police........................... 17 C4 Xatheri.....................................78 B2
Georgiades Wash Centre............................18 E2
Park SHOPPING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aerakis Music.......................... 79 D4
Agios Dimitrios Church............19 C2 Elli............................................80 C4
Agios Markos Basilica..............20 C3 Fanourakis...............................81 C3
Agios Minas Cathedral.............21 B4 Folie Folie................................82 D3
Archaeological Museum of Kosmimata...............................83 C3
Iraklio...................................22 E3 Mastic Spa...............................84 C3
tias

Battle of Crete Museum............23 E3 Mountain Club........................85 C4

Leof Dimokra

Bembo Fountain......................24 C5 Paleopoleio Antique Shop........86 D3

Church of Agios Titos..............25 D3
oup i Cretan Adventures...................26 C4 TRANSPORT
u Trik
Historical Museum of Crete......27 B2 Aegean Airlines........................87 F5
Kazantzakis' Tomb...................28 B6 Bus Station A............................88 E2
Koules Venetian Fortress...........29 E1 Buses to Airport........................89 E4
Loggia......................................30 C3 Buses to Ammoudara.............(see 37)
Lyceum of Greek Women........31 C2 Buses to Knossos......................90 C3
Morosini Fountain....................32 C3 Buses to Knossos & Airport.......91 E2
inak i Municipal Art Gallery.............(see 20) Ferries to Piraeus......................92 G1
Kastr Municipal Garden....................33 C6 Loggeta Cars............................93 C3
Museum of Religious Art..........34 B4 Long-Distance Taxis.................94 E4
Natural History Museum of Motor Club..............................95 D2
Crete...................................35 A2 Olympic Airlines...................... 96 D2
To Knossos Venetian Arsenal......................36 E2 Sun Rise...................................97 C2
(5km)
 152 I R A K L I O • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

advanced skills of the Minoans. While the Other significant pieces from Agia Triada
temporary exhibition only includes 400 of the include three celebrated vases. The Harvester
15,000 artefacts that had been on display in Vase – of which only the top part remains
the museum, it is presented to international – depicts a light-hearted scene of young farm
museum standards and comprises the key workers returning from olive picking. The
masterpieces of the collection. Among the Boxer Vase shows Minoans indulging in two of
highlights are the famous Minoan frescoes their favourite pastimes – wrestling and bull-
from Knossos, including the Procession fresco, grappling. The Chieftain Cup depicts a more
the Griffin Fresco (from the Throne Room), the cryptic scene: a chief holding a staff and three
Dolphin Fresco (from the Queen’s Room) and men carrying animal skins.
the amazing Bull-Leaping Fresco, which depicts a Finds from Minoan cemeteries include
seemingly double-jointed acrobat somersault- two small clay models of groups of figures
ing on the back of a charging bull. that were found in a tholos tomb. One de-
Other frescoes include the lovely, recently picts four male dancers in a circle, their arms
restored Prince of the Lilies, as well as two fres- around each other’s shoulders. The dancers
coes from the new Palace period – the priest- may have been participating in a funeral
ess archaeologists have dubbed La Parisienne ritual. The other shows two groups of three
and the Saffron Gatherer. figures in a room flanked by two columns,
Also on display from the palace at Knos- with two large seated figures being offered
sos are Linear A and B tablets (the latter have libations by a smaller figure. It is not known
been translated as household or business ac- whether the large figures represent gods or
counts), an ivory statue of a bull leaper and departed mortals.
some exquisite gold seals. Another highlight providing an insight into
From the Middle Minoan period, the most Minoan life is the elaborate gaming board deco-
striking piece is the 20cm black stone Bull’s rated with ivory, crystal, glass, gold and silver,
IRAKLIO

Head, a libation vessel, with a fine head of curls, from the New Palace period at Knossos.
gold horns and lifelike painted crystal eyes.
Other fascinating exhibits from this period in- Historical Museum of Crete
clude the tiny, glazed colour reliefs of Minoan A fascinating collection from Crete’s more
houses from Knossos, called the town mosaic. recent past is presented at the excellent Histori-
Finds from a shrine at Knossos include cal Museum (%2810 283 219; www.historical-museum
figurines of a bare-breasted snake goddess. .gr; Sofokli Venizelou; admission €5; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri,
Among the treasures of Minoan jewellery summer; 9am-3pm Mon-Sat winter). The ground floor
is the beautiful, fine gold bee pendant found covers the period from Byzantine to Turkish
at Malia depicting two bees dropping honey rule, displaying plans, charts, photographs,
into a comb. ceramics and maps. On the 1st floor are the
The prized find from Phaestos is the fasci- only two El Greco paintings in Crete – View
nating Phaestos Disk, a 16cm circular clay tablet of Mt Sinai and the Monastery of St Catherine
inscribed with pictographic symbols that have (1570) and the tiny recent addition, Baptism
never been deciphered. of Christ. Other rooms contain fragments of
Examples of the famous elaborate Kamares 13th- and 14th-century frescoes, coins, jewel-
pottery, named after the sacred cave of Kamares lery, liturgical ornaments and vestments, and
where the vases were first discovered, include medieval pottery.
a superbly decorated vase from Phaestos with The 2nd floor has a reconstruction of the
white sculpted flowers. library of author Nikos Kazantzakis. Another room
Finds from the palace at Zakros include the is devoted to Rethymno-born former prime
gorgeous crystal rhyton vase that was found in minister Emmanouil Tsouderos. Some dra-
over 300 pieces and painstakingly put back matic photographs of a ruined Iraklio are
together again, as well as vessels decorated displayed in the Battle of Crete section, which
with floral and marine designs. was being revamped. There is an outstanding
The spectacular Minoan sarcophagus from folklore collection on the third floor.
Agia Triada, a stone coffin painted with flo-
ral and abstract designs and ritual scenes, is Natural History Museum of Crete
regarded as one of the supreme examples of Established by the University of Crete, this
Minoan art. leading Natural History Museum (%2810 282 740;
lonelyplanet.com I R A K L I O • • I r a k l i o f o r C h i l d re n 153

www.nhmc.uoc.gr; Leof Venizelou; adult €3, adults accom- version of a gentleman’s club, where the male
panying children free; h10am-2pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm aristocracy came to drink and gossip. It is now
Sun) has relocated to impressive new five-level the town hall.
premises in the restored former electricity The delightful Bembo Fountain, at the south-
building on the waterfront. Only two wings ern end of 1866, is shown on local maps as the
had opened at the time of research, includ- Turkish Fountain, but it was actually built
ing an impressive interactive discovery centre by the Venetians in the 16th century. It was
for kids, compete with labs and excavation constructed from a hotchpotch of building
projects. Apart from the broader evolution materials including an ancient statue. The
of humankind, the museum explores the flora ornate hexagonal edifice next to the fountain
and fauna of Crete, the island’s ecosystem and was a pump house added by the Turks, and
habitats, and its caves, coastline and moun- now functions as a pleasant kafeneio (coffee
tains. It also looks at the Minoan environ- house).
ment, including a reconstruction of a Minoan The Museum of Religious Art (%2810 288 825;
cottage and its inhabitants. It’s a pleasant 10- Monis Odigitrias; admission €2; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-
minute walk along the coast. Sat Apr-Oct; 9.30am-3.30pm winter) is housed in the
former Church of Agia Ekaterini, next to Agios
Other Attractions Minas Cathedral. It has an impressive collection
Iraklio burst out of its city walls long ago, but of icons, frescoes and elaborate ecclesiasti-
these massive Venetian fortifications, with cal vestments. The premier exhibits are the
seven bastions and four gates, are still very six icons painted by Mihail Damaskinos, El
conspicuous, dwarfing the concrete structures Greco’s mentor.
of the 20th century. The Church of Agios Titos (Agio Titou) was
The 16th-century Koules Venetian fortress (Irak- constructed after the liberation of the Crete
lio Harbour; admission €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) stands in AD 961 and was converted to a Catho-

IRAKLIO
at the end of the Old Harbour jetty (though it lic church and then a mosque. Twice rebuilt
was sinking and underwent significant resto- after being destroyed by the big fire in 1554
ration recently). Built by the Venetians who and then the 1856 earthquake, it has been an
called it Rocca al Mare, it stopped the Turks Orthodox Church since 1925.
for 22 years and then became a Turkish prison You can pay homage to Crete’s most ac-
for Cretan rebels. The impressive exterior has claimed contemporary writer, Nikos Kazant-
reliefs of the Lion of St Mark. The interior zakis (1883–1957; see p53), by visiting his
has 26 overly restored rooms and good views tomb at the Martinengo Bastion (the largest
from the top. The rooms on the ground level and best preserved bastion) in the southern
are used for art exhibitions, while music and part of town. The epitaph on his grave, ‘I hope
theatrical events are held in the upper level. for nothing, I fear nothing, I am free’, is taken
The vaulted arcades of the Venetian Arsenal from one of his works. You can actually walk
are located on the harbour front, opposite along the city walls all the way to the water-
the fortress. front from here (about an hour), or you can
Several other notable vestiges from Vene- climb up from the steps next to the arches at
tian times survive. Most famous is Morosini Plateia Kyprou.
Fountain on Plateia Venizelou, which spurts The Battle of Crete Museum (%2810 346 554; cnr
water from four lions into eight ornate U- Doukos Beaufort & Hatzidaki; admission free; h8am-3pm)
shaped marble troughs. The fountain, built chronicles this historic battle through photo-
in 1628, was commissioned by Francesco graphs, letters, uniforms and weapons.
Morosini while he was governor of Crete. A The quaint Lyceum of Greek Women (%2810
marble statue of Poseidon with his trident 286 594; www.leher.gr; Monis Agarathou 9; admission
used to stand at the centre, but was destroyed free; h10.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) has a fine col-
during the Turkish occupation. Opposite is lection of Cretan costumes, weavings and
the three-aisled 13th-century Agios Markos Ba- other handicrafts.
silica, reconstructed many times and is now the
Municipal Art Gallery (%2810 399 228; 25 Avgoustou; IRAKLIO FOR CHILDREN
admission free; h9am-1.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm The Natural History Museum of Crete (opposite)
Sat). A little north of here is the attractively is a safe bet for kids, as is an excursion to
reconstructed 17th-century Loggia, a Venetian the Cretaquarium (see p161). If the children
 154 I R A K L I O • • A c t i v i t i e s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

are museumed out, the waterfront Port Gar- number of travellers in the high season. Most
den Cafe (%2810 242 411; Paraliaki Leoforo; %7am- hotels were upgraded in the lead-up to the
late) has indoor and shaded outdoor play 2004 Olympics.
areas, including jumping castles and swings.
You can also escape the heat and let the kids Budget
run around in Georgiades Park, where there is Camping Creta (%28970 41400; fax 2897 041 792; per
a pleasant shady café. tent/person €5.50/4) The nearest camp sites are at
Gouves, 16km east of Iraklio. The camping
ACTIVITIES ground is a flat, shadeless area, but there is a
Hiking sand- and- pebble beach.
Cretan Adventures (%2810 332 772; www.cretanadven Iraklio Youth Hostel (%2810 286 281; heraklioyo
tures.gr; Evans 10, upstairs) is a well-regarded local [email protected]; Vyronos 5; dm/d/tr without bathroom
company run by two intrepid brothers who €10/25/35) This scruffy, run-down Greek Youth
can organise hiking tours, mountain biking, Hostel Organisation establishment is the
and other specialist and extreme activities. source of many complaints from travellers.
The Mountaineering Club of Iraklio (EOS; %2810 The dorms are as basic as you can get. It’s a
227 609; www.cretanland.gr/orivatikos; Dikeosynis 53, Iraklio; last-resort option.
%8.30pm-10.30pm) arranges excursions across Hellas Rent Rooms (%2810 288 851; fax 2810 284
the island most weekends. 442; Handakos 24; dm/d/tr without bathroom €10.50/30/42)
This friendly and relaxed de facto youth hos-
Swimming & Diving tel has a reception area and rooftop garden
For a dive in Crete’s clear warm waters try bar three flights up. The rooms have fans
Diver’s Club (%2810 811755; www.diversclub-crete.gr; and a washbasin and the shared bathrooms
Agia Pelagia), about 20km west of Iraklio, for are basic but clean. All rooms have balco-
boat and beach dives at various sites. Am- nies. You can have breakfast on the terrace
IRAKLIO

moudara, about 4km west of Iraklio, is the from €2.50.

closest beach to the city but you are better Mirabello Hotel (%2810 285 052; www.mirabello
off heading further afield to Agia Pelagia in -hotel.gr; Theotokopoulou 20; s/d without bathroom €35/44,
the west, or Koundoura to the east. d with bathroom €65; a) One of Iraklio’s most
pleasant budget hotels, the relaxed Mirabello
TOURS is on a quiet street in the centre. The rooms
Iraklio’s travel agents run coach tours the are immaculate, though some are a little
length and breadth of Crete. There are also cramped, with TV, phones, balconies and
daily cruises to Santorini. Try the helpful upgraded bathrooms. Some rooms share
Skoutelis Travel (%2810 280808; www.skoutelistravel single-sex bathrooms.
.gr; 25 Avgoustou 24). Lena Hotel (%2810 223 280; www.lena-hotel.gr; La-
hana 10; s/d without bathroom €35/45, with bathroom €45/60;
FESTIVALS & EVENTS a) On a quiet street, this friendly hotel has
Iraklio’s Summer Arts Festival presents interna- 16 comfortable, airy rooms with phone, TV,
tional orchestras and dance troupes as well fans and double-glazed windows. Most have
as local talent. The principal venue for per- private bathrooms but even the communal
formances is the huge open-air Nikos Kazant- bathrooms are pleasant and upgraded.
zakis Theatre (%2810 242 977; Jesus Bastion; box office Rea Hotel (%2810 223 638; www.hotelrea.gr; Kalime-
h9am-2.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm), near the moat of raki 1; d shared/private bathroom €34/44) Popular with
the Venetian walls, the nearby Manos Hatzi- backpackers, the family-run Rea has an easy,
dakis theatre and the Koules Venetian fortress friendly atmosphere. Rooms all have fans and
(p153). Programmes are posted last-minute sinks, although some bathrooms are shared.
on www.heraklion-city.gr or ask at the mu- There’s a small, basic communal kitchen and
nicipal cultural office (%2810 399 211; Androgeiou 2; they also have family rooms (€60).
h8am-4pm) behind the Youth Centre café.
Midrange
SLEEPING Kronos Hotel (%2810 282 240; www.kronoshotel.gr;
Iraklio’s central accommodation is weighted Sofokli Venizelou 2; s/d €48/60; ai) This well-
towards business travellers, and the few budget maintained older waterfront hotel has com-
hotels are often not enough to cope with the fortable rooms with double-glazed windows
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com I R A K L I O • • E a t i n g 155

and balconies, phone and TV, and most have EATING

a fridge. It is one of the better value two-star Iraklio has restaurants to suit all tastes and
hotels in town. Ask for one of the rooms with pockets, from excellent fish tavernas to exotic
sea views. international cuisine and formal dining op-
oKastro Hotel (%2810 284 185; www.kas tions. You’ll find the all-night souvlaki joints
tro-hotel.gr; Theotokopoulou 22; s/d/tr incl breakfast from around the Lion Fountain and a few atmos-
€50/75/90; ai) A refurbished, modern, pheric tavernas around the market, as well as
cheery hotel in the back streets, the Kastro on the waterfront. Note that the majority of
is an excellent choice. The large rooms have restaurants are closed on Sunday.
fridges, TV, hairdryers, phones and ISDN
internet connectivity. Budget
Marin Hotel (%2810 300 018; www.marinhotel.gr; Giakoumis Taverna (%2810 280 277; Theodosaki 5-
Doukos Beaufort 12; s €75, d €95-125; ai) The front 8; mayirefta €4-6) This is one of our favourites
rooms of this modern hotel have great views among the tavernas clustered around the 1866
of the harbour and fortress, and some have market side streets. There’s a full menu of
big balconies. Rooms are attractive and well- Cretan specialities and vegetarian options.
appointed and staff are attentive. The price Turnover is heavy, which means that the
includes breakfast. dishes are fresh, and you can see the meat
Irini Hotel (%2810 229 703; www.irini-hotel.com; being prepared for the grill.
Idomeneos 4; s/d incl breakfast €71/100; a) Close to O Vrakas (%6977 893973; Plateia 18 Anglon; seafood
the old harbour, Irini is a mid-sized estab- mezedes €4.20-12) This small street-side ouzerie
lishment with 59 large, airy rooms with TV, (serving ouzo and light snacks) grills fresh
radio and telephone, and plants and flowers fish alfresco in front of diners. It’s unassuming
on the balconies. You can get a lower rate if and the menu is limited, but still very popular
you skip breakfast. with locals. Grilled octopus with ouzo is a

IRAKLIO
Atrion Hotel (%2810 246 000; www.atrion.gr; Hronaki good choice.
9; s/d incl breakfast €95/110; ai) This refurbished Ippokambos Ouzeri (%2810 280 240; Sofokli Ven-
hotel is one of the city’s more pleasant op- izelou 3; mezedes €4.50-9.50) Many locals come to
tions. Rooms are tastefully decked out in neu- this classic Iraklio haunt at the edge of the
tral tones, with TV, fridge, hairdryers and tourist-driven waterfront dining strip. Take
data ports. The top rooms have sea views and a peek inside at the fresh trays and pots of
small balconies. mayirefta such as baked cuttlefish, and dine
at one of the sidewalk tables or on the prom-
Top End enade across the road.
oLato Hotel (%2810 228 103; www.lato.gr; Fyllo…Sofies (%2810 284 774; Plateia Venizelou 33; bou-
Epimenidou 15; s/d/ste €100/127/175; ai) This gatsa €2.20; h5am-late) Next to the Lion Fountain,
friendly boutique hotel overlooking the old this place does a roaring morning trade when
and new harbours is one of Iraklio’s prime both the tourists off the early boats and the post-
hotels. It has a smart contemporary design club crowd head straight for a delicious bougatsa
and furnishings, and excellent service. Most pastry. Try the custard version or the less
rooms have spectacular views, especially the sweet myzithra cheese sprinkled with sugar.
spacious suites. There are great views from the Bitzarakis Bakery (%2810 287 465; 1821 7) Sells
rooftop restaurant and bar, while downstairs excellent freshly baked kalitsounia (lightly
is the funky new Brilliant (%2810 334 959) fried pastries) along with many other delec-
gourmet restaurant. table snacks, sweets and traditional Cretan
Megaron (%2810 305 300; www.gdmmegaron.gr; Dou- products made by the Kroussonas women’s
kos Beaufort 9; s/d €190/215, ste from €247; ias) cooperative (see boxed text, p163).
This once-derelict historic building on the Loukoumades (%2810 285 567; 1821 9; six pieces €2;
harbour has been stunningly transformed h5am-10pm Mon-Sat) Delicious fluffy loukou-
with top design and fittings throughout. mades (fritters) drizzled with honey, sesame
There are comfortable beds, jacuzzis in the seeds and cinnamon.
VIP suites, plasma-screen TVs and a fax in
every room. The rooftop restaurant and bar Midrange
have fine harbour views and there’s a unique Koupes (%6977 259038; Agiou Titou 22; mezedes €2.50-
glass-sided pool. 6.50) One of a row of rakadika (café-style eateries
 156 I R A K L I O • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t lonelyplanet.com

serving raki or wine with mezedes) along this It has some dishes based on ancient Greek
pedestrian strip popular with students, this cuisine, such as pork medallions with dried
place opposite the school has a good range fruit on wild rice.
of mezedes. Loukoulos (%2810 224 435; Korai 5; mains €15-32)
Terzakis Ouzeri (%2810 221 444; Marineli 17; mezedes Loukoulos offers luscious Mediterranean spe-
€3.60-10.20) On a small square opposite the cialties served on fine china and accompanied
Agios Dimitrios church, this excellent ou- by soft classical music. You can either opt for
zerie has a good range of mezedes, mayirefta the elegant interior or take your meal on the
and grills. Try the sea urchin salad or, if you outdoor terrace under a lemon tree.
are really game to try a local speciality, ask if Also recommended is the superb food at
they have ameletita (unmentionables, fried Pagopiion (below), before it gets too noisy.
sheep testicles).
Embolo (%2810 284 244; Miliara 7; mains €4.50-8) ENTERTAINMENT
Run by former musician Giannis Stavrakakis When not being used by live performers in
from Anogia, Embolo dishes up fine Cretan the summer (see p154), the Nikos Kazantzakis
food – excellent grills, pites (pies) and large theatre operates as an open-air cinema (%2810
salads – and has occasional live music. 242 977; Jesus Bastion).
oI Avli tou Defkaliona (%2810 244 215; Prev- Astoria Cinema (%2810 226 191; Plateia Eleftherias)
elaki 10; mains €6-8.90; hdinner) This popular tav- screens the latest movies, mostly in English.
erna with traditional wicker chairs, checked A new cinema multiplex and entertainment
tablecloths and plastic grapevines is known complex was due to open along the waterfront
for its broad range of mezedes, home-style towards the Natural History Museum.
dishes and quality meat and seafood, as well The best way to find any live Cretan music
as its lively atmosphere. in town is by asking at the Aerakis Music store
Peri Orexeos (%2810 222 679; Koraï 10; mains €7-8) (see opposite), spotting posters around town,
IRAKLIO

Right on the busy Koraï pedestrian strip, this or trying your luck at Xatheri (%2810 332 757;
restaurant offers excellent modern Greek food Handakos 36) and Theorio (%2810 288 390; Pediados 22)
with creative takes such as creamy chicken- which have regular live music on Friday and
filled kataïfi (angel-hair pastry) with creamy Saturday nights (November to May).
chicken, huge salads and solid Cretan cuisine.
There’s also a wicked chocolate dessert. Cafés & Bars
Syntagies (%2810 241 378; Koziri 3; mains €9.50-19) Iraklio has an astounding number of cafés and
Housed in one of Iraklio’s few surviving 1920s bars, the most concentrated and lively area
neoclassical mansions, this elegant place has being the pedestrian strips around Korai and
original painted ceilings (including dam- Perdikari. Most morph into lively bars after
aged sections from WWII) and tables in the 11pm. Along Handakos you’ll find relaxed
flower-filled courtyard garden. It serves well- and cosy places more suitable for conversation
executed classic Greek/Cretan dishes along- than people-watching.
side international cuisine. The pastrami pas- Pagopiion (%2810 346 028; Plateia Agiou Titou;
tries are stand-out starters. h10am-late) This former ice factory with an
Also recommended is Parasies (%2810 225 arty edge is a perennial favourite that becomes
009; Plateia Istorikou Mouseiou) in the corner of the a lively bar after 11pm.
square next to the Historical Museum; for Guernica (%2810 282 988; Apokoronou Kritis 2;
good-value fresh seafood, the Amateur Fisher- h10am-late) A great combination of traditional
man’s Club (%2810 223 812), in a concrete build- décor and contemporary music make this one
ing on the waterfront opposite the bus station; of Iraklio’s hippest bar/cafés. The rambling
and Erganos (%2810 285 629; Georgiadi 5) opposite old building has a delightful terrace garden
the Jesus Bastion for reliable Cretan food at for the summer.
decent prices. Veneto (%2810 223 686; Epimenidou 9) This café
has the best view of the harbour and fortress
Top End from its lovely terrace. It’s in an historic build-
oPrassein Aloga (%2810 283 429; cnr Handakos ing near Hotel Lato.
& Kydonias 21; mains €12-18) This little rustic-style Take Five (%2810 226 564; Akroleondos 7; h10am-
café/restaurant has excellent innovative Medi- late) This old favourite on recently pedestrian-
terranean food from an ever-changing menu. ised El Greco Park has been rather swamped
lonelyplanet.com I R A K L I O • • S h o p p i n g 157

by louder new arrivals. Next door, Draft Paleopoleio Antique Shop (%2810 240 155; Agiou
(%2810 301 341; Arkoleondos 9) grill and Titou 52) One of the few surviving antique
beer house has more than 40 beers, though stores in a city obsessed with the latest brand
they don’t come cheap (from €5.50). names, this old store has a small assortment
Utopia (%2810 341 321; Handakos 51) This almost antiques and collectables, icons and old books,
formal old-style café specialises in teas, hot the showpiece being an old diver’s costume
chocolates, fondues and has an assortment hanging in the window.
of equally wicked icecreams. Kosmimata (%2810 346 888; Handakos 31) Designer
Café Santan (%6976 285 869; Korai 13) The city’s Lily Haniotaki-Besi and her jeweller husband
first oriental café, with shishas, sofas and eth- make all the modern and unique jewellery in
nic oriental dance music, including live belly this delightful small silver workshop.
dancers from 11pm. Mountain Club (%2810 280 610; Evans 15) If you
haven’t come prepared for hikes and ad-
Nightclubs ventures, you’ll find outdoor clothing and
Iraklio has the smartest and most sophisti- footwear as well as camping, climbing and
cated nightlife on Crete. The clubs are scat- biking gear here.
tered around town, along Leoforos Ikarou, Folli Follie (%2810 346 354; Daedalou 23) Greece’s
just down from Plateia Eleftherias, and Epi- internationally successful handbag and jewel-
mendou. In summer, the action moves to the lery chain.
clubs by the waterfront, where a new club Mastic Spa (%2810 390 567; Kantanoleon 2) Has
and entertainment precinct is emerging with unique products made from Chios Island
open-air clubs. Some venues open around mastic, including foodstuffs and skin care.
midnight. The cover charge usually starts at
about €6 and should include a drink. GETTING THERE & AWAY
Privilege (Doukos Beaufort 7) Iraklio’s smart set Air

IRAKLIO
packs this dance club that can easily hold 1000 Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport (code HER;
people. Like many of Crete’s dance clubs, %2810 228 401)
there’s international music (rock, techno
etc) until about 2am, when Greek club music DOMESTIC
takes over. Olympic (%city 2810 244 824, airport 2810 337 203; www
The most popular waterfront club is the .olympicairlines.com; 25 Avgoustou 27) and Aegean ( %city
pretentious but nonetheless classy Big Fish 2810 344 324, fax 2810 344 330, %Airport 2810 330 475;
(%2810 288 011; Makariou 17 & Venizelou; hall day), www.aegeanair.com; Leof Dimokratias 11) each have at
in a stunningly restored old stone building. least five flights daily to Athens (from €85)
There is also the club next door, Desire. from Iraklio’ as well as daily flights to Thes-
saloniki (from €106). Olympic also flies to
SHOPPING Rhodes (from €89). Both airlines have regular
Iraklio has the most extensive and sophis- special fare deals, although rarely in peak sea-
ticated shopping on Crete, so it’s a good son. Aegean’s early bird internet bookings are
place to pick up the latest fashion, replace excellent value but dates cannot be changed.
a suitcase or shop for luxury goods. Pedes- For flying last-minute, Olympic is normally
trian Dedalou and Handakos are lined with cheaper. Sky Express (%2810 223 500; www.skyex
mostly mainstream shops. The busy nar- press.gr) has daily flights to Rhodes and several
row market street, 1866, has stalls spilling weekly flights to Santorini, Lesvos, Kos, Samos
over with sponges, herbs, fruits, vegetables, and Ikaria (from €79) on its 18-seater planes.
T-shirts, nuts, honey, shoes and bags. For
leading designers and jewellers, head to Ka- INTERNATIONAL
lokerinou and 1821 where you’ll find Greek Iraklio has charter flights from all over Eu-
jewellers like Fanourakis (%2810 282 708; Plateia rope, with flights to London available from
N Foka). €80 to €150. Skoutelis Travel (p154) is a
Aerakis Music (%2810 225 758; Daedalou 37; www good place to ask. GB Airways (www.gbairways
.seistronmusic.gr) Offers the best range of Cretan .com) also has weekly scheduled flights from
music, from old and rare recordings to the Gatwick. Aegean Airlines had direct sched-
latest releases – many on their own record uled flights from Iraklio to Rome, Larnaca,
label, Seistron Music. Stuttgart, Dusseldorf and Monaco.
 158 A R O U N D I R A K L I O • • K n o s s o s lonelyplanet.com

Boat BUSES FROM BUS STATION B

The Iraklio Port Authority (%2810 244 912) at the Destination Duration Fare (€) Frequency
port has ferry schedule information. Agia Galini 2hr 7.10 6 daily
Minoan Lines (%2104 145 700, 2810 229 624; www Anogia 1hr 3.40 4 daily
.minoan.gr) operates ferries between Iraklio Matala 2½hr 6.80 5 daily
and Piraeus (seven hours), departing from Phaestos 1½hr 5.70 8 daily
both Piraeus and Iraklio at 10pm. Fares
start at €29 for deck class and €54 for cab- Bus
ins. The Minoan Lines’ high-speed boats, Iraklio has two intercity bus stations. Bus Sta-
the F/B Festos Palace and F/B Knossos Pal- tion A (%2810 246 534), which serves eastern and
ace, are more modern and comfortable than western Crete (including Knossos), is on the
their ANEK rivals. waterfront near the quay, though there were
In summer, Minoan runs extra 6½ hour plans to relocate it. Bus Station B, (%2810 255
services (deck class €37) on weekends and 965) just beyond Hania Gate, west of the cen-
some weekdays, departing Iraklio and Pi- tre, serves Phaestos, Agia Galini and Matala.
raeus at 11am and arriving at 5.30pm. Services reduce on weekends. Check out
GA Ferries (%2810 222 408; www.gaferries.gr) runs www.ktel-herakl io-lassithi.gr.
four ferries weekly from Iraklio to Thessa-
loniki (€46.50, 31 hours) via Santorini (€16, Long-Distance Taxi
4½ hours), Ios (€18.80, 6½ hours) and Paros For destinations around Crete, Long-Distance
(€24.30, 10 hours), stopping at several other Taxis (% 2810 210 102) have cabs at Plateia
islands en route. GA also has a weekly ferry Eleftherias outside the Astoria Capsis Hotel,
from Iraklio (leaving Friday 5pm) to Rhodes and at Bus Station B. Sample fares include
(€26.40, cabin €39.20, 14½ hours) via Kasos Agios Nikolaos (€60), Rethymno (€70) and
(€19.40, six hours) and Karpathos (€17.40, Hania (€120).
IRAKLIO

eight hours).
Hellenic Seaways (www.hellenicseaways.gr) has a GETTING AROUND
daily high-speed service to Santorini (€31, Bus No 1 goes to and from the airport every
1¾ hours), Ios (€36.70, 2½ hours) Paros 15 minutes between 6am and 1am. The bus
(€47.80, 3¼ hours), Naxos (€41.70, 4¼ terminal is near the Astoria Capsis Hotel
hours) and Mykonos (€48.70, 4¾ hours). on Plateia Eleftherias. A taxi to the airport
ANEK Lines (%28102 44912; www.anek.gr) has costs around €7 to €10. Try Ikarus Radio Taxi
daily ferries between Iraklio and Piraeus (%2810 211 212).
(regular €32, cabin €58, eight hours) The airport has a full range of car-rental
at 8.30pm. companies including the big multinationals,
LANE Lines (%2810 346 440; www.lane.gr) leaves but you’ll get the best deal from local outlets,
Iraklio for Sitia, Kasos (€19.50, six hours), which are largely located on 25 Avgoustou.
Karpathos (€19.50, eight hours), Diafani Loggetta Cars (%2810 289 462; www.loggetta.gr; 25
(€17.90, nine hours), Halki (€18.20, 11hours) Avgoustou 20)
and Rhodes (€27, 14 hours). Motor Club (%2810 222 408; www.motorclub.gr;
Plateia 18 Anglon) Opposite the fortress, has the biggest
BUSES FROM BUS STATION A selection of bikes.
Destination Duration Fare (€) Frequency Sun Rise (%2810 221 609; 25 Avgoustou 46) Just off
pedestrian street.
Hania 3hr 10.50 18 daily
Rethymno 1¾hr 6.50 18 daily
Agia Pelagia
Agios Nikolaos
45min
1½hr
3.10
6.20
3 daily
half-hourly
AROUND IRAKLIO
Arhanes 30min 1.60 hourly
Hersonisos/Malia 45min 3.50 half-hourly KNOSSOS ΚΝΩΣΟΣ
Ierapetra 2½hr 9.50 8 daily Once the capital of Minoan Crete, Knossos
Knossos 20min 1.15 3 hourly (%2810 231 940; admission €6, incl Iraklio Archaeological
Lasithi Plateau 2hr 4.70 1 daily Museum €10; h 8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-3pm Nov-
Milatos 1½hr 4.70 2 daily Mar) is the island’s major tourist attraction.
Sitia 3½hr 13.10 5 daily The palace site is in an evocative location,
lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D I R A K L I O • • K n o s s o s 159

about 5km south of Iraklio, surrounded by five years later and began digging with a
green hills and shaded by pine trees, though group of Cretan workmen.
the road leading up to it is an uninspiring The first treasure to be unearthed in the
gauntlet of souvenir shops. The ruins of flat-topped mound called Kefala was a fresco
Knossos (k-nos-os) were uncovered in 1900 of a Minoan man, followed by the discovery of
by the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans the Throne Room. The archaeological world
(p162). Heinrich Schliemann, the legendary was stunned that a civilisation of this maturity
discoverer of ancient Troy, had his eye on and sophistication had existed in Europe at
the spot, believing an ancient city was buried the same time as the great pharaohs of Egypt.
there, but he was unable to strike a deal with Some even speculated that it was the site of
the local landowner in Turkish-controlled the lost city of Atlantis to which Plato referred
Crete. Intrigued by Schliemann’s discovery to many centuries later, though this is highly
of engraved seals in Crete, and later pottery disputed.
finds in Kamares, Evans sailed to Crete in Evans ‘realistic’ reconstruction methods
1894 and set in train the purchase of a share continue to be controversial – with both visi-
of the Knossos site, which gave him exclu- tors and archaeologists believe Evans got car-
sive rights to the excavation. He returned ried away by his own fantasy. Unlike other

PALACE OF KNOSSOS 0 50 m

Roy
a l Road

North

IRAKLIO
Entrance

3
10
12
Western
Court 2

Main Central
(West) Court
Entrance
4

5
East
Entrance
11
8

South South
House Entrance
South-East
House

Bull Fresco..........................................1 C2 Hall of the Double Axes.....................5 C3 Theatral Area......................................9 B1

Corridor of the Procession Fresco........2 B2 Lustral Basin........................................6 B1 Throne Room...................................10 C2
Giant Pithoi........................................3 D2 Priest King Fresco...............................7 C3 Water Closet....................................11 C3
Grand Staircase..................................4 C3 Queen's Megaron..............................8 C3 Western Court..................................12 B2
 160 A R O U N D I R A K L I O • • K n o s s o s lonelyplanet.com

THE LABYRINTH
Legend has is that after King Minos failed to sacrifice a magnificent white bull in honour of Poseidon,
the god took his revenge by making the king’s wife, Pasiphae, fall in love with the beast. To help
her lure the bull, Daedalus, chief architect at Knossos and all-round handyman, made her a hollow
wooden cow structure in which she could conceal herself. The bull apparently found her irresistible
and their bizarre union produced the Minotaur: a hideous half-man, half-bull monster.
King Minos had Daedalus build a labyrinth in which to confine the Minotaur. He enraged
the Athenians by demanding that Athens pay an annual tribute of seven youths and seven
maidens to feed the monster, to compensate for the Athenians killing Minos’ son Androgeos.
The Athenian hero Theseus vowed to kill the Minotaur and sailed to Crete posing as one of the
sacrificial youths. He fell in love with Ariadne, King Minos’ daughter, who promised to help him
if he would take her away with him. Ariadne gave him the ball of twine that he unwound on his
way into the labyrinth and used to retrace his steps after slaying the monster. They eventually
fled Crete together.

archaeological sites in Crete, however, sub- to cordon this area off before it disappeared
stantial reconstruction helps the visitor to altogether under the continual pounding of
visualise what the palace might have looked feet. Extensive repairs are under way but it is
like at the peak of its glory. unlikely to open to the public again.
You will need to spend a few hours at Knos-
sos to explore it thoroughly. There is little Exploring the Site
signage, so unless you have a travel guide, or The site’s numerous rooms, corridors, dog-
hire a guide, you may not appreciate what leg passages, staircases, and nooks and cran-
IRAKLIO

you are looking at. To beat the crowds and nies preclude a detailed walk description of
avoid the heat, get there early before the tour the palace. However Knossos is not a site
buses arrive. The café at the site is expensive – where you’ll be perplexed by heaps of rubble.
you’d do better to bring a picnic along. Note Thanks to Evans’ reconstruction, the most
that you can buy a combined ticket for €10 significant parts of the complex are instantly
that also includes entry to the Archaeological recognisable (if not instantly found). While
Museum of Iraklio. you wander you will come across many of
Evans’ reconstructed columns. Most are
History painted deep brown-red with gold-trimmed
The first palace at Knossos was built around black capitals. These, like all Minoan col-
1900 BC, but most of what you see dates from umns, taper at the bottom.
1700 BC after the Old Palace was destroyed by Strategically placed copies of Minoan fres-
an earthquake. It was then rebuilt to a grander coes help infuse the site with the artistic spirit of
and more sophisticated design. The palace was these remarkable people. The Minoan achieve-
partially destroyed again sometime between ments in plumbing equal their achievements
1500 BC and 1450 BC and inhabited for an- in painting: drains and pipes were carefully
other 50 years before it was devastated once placed to avoid flooding, taking advantage of
and for all by fire. centrifugal force. It appears that at some points
The New Palace was carefully designed to water goes uphill, demonstrating a mastery of
meet the needs of a complex society. There the principle that water finds its own level. Also
were domestic quarters for the king or queen, notice the placement of light wells and the re-
residences for officials and priests, homes for lationship of rooms to passages, porches, light
common folk and burial grounds. Public re- wells and verandas, which kept rooms cool in
ception rooms, shrines, workshops, treasuries summer and warm in winter.
and storerooms were built around a paved The usual entrance to the palace complex
courtyard in a design so intricate that it may is across the Western Court and along the
have been behind the legend of the labyrinth Corridor of the Procession Fresco. The fresco de-
and the Minotaur (see boxed text, above). picted a long line of people carrying gifts to
It was once possible to enter the royal present to the king; only fragments remain.
apartments, but in early 1997 it was decided A copy of one of these fragments, called the
lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D I R A K L I O • • C re t a q u a r i u m 161

Priest King Fresco, can be seen to the south of eastern side of the palace to the royal apart-
the Central Court. ments, which Evans called the Domestic Quarter.
An alternative way to enter is to have a look This section of the site is now cordoned off.
at the Corridor of the Procession Fresco, then Within the royal apartments is the Hall of the
walk straight ahead to enter the site from the Double Axes. This was the king’s megaron, a
northern end. If you do this you will come to spacious double room in which the ruler both
the theatral area, a series of steps whose func- slept and carried out certain court duties. The
tion remains unknown. It could have been a room had a light well at one end and a balcony
theatre where spectators watched acrobatic at the other to ensure air circulation.
and dance performances, or the place where The room takes its name from the double
people gathered to welcome important visi- axe marks on its light well. These marks appear
tors arriving by the Royal Road. in many places at Knossos. The labrys (double
The Royal Road leads off to the west. The axe) was a sacred symbol to the Minoans, and
road, Europe’s first (Knossos has lots of firsts), the origin of our word ‘labyrinth’.
was flanked by workshops and the houses of A passage leads from the Hall of the Dou-
ordinary people. The Lustral Basin is also in this ble Axes to the queen’s megaron. Above the
area. Evans speculated that this was where the door is a copy of the Dolphin Fresco, one of the
Minoans performed a ritual cleansing with most exquisite Minoan artworks. A blue flo-
water before religious ceremonies. ral design decorates the portal. Next to this
Entering the Central Court from the north, room is the queen’s bathroom, complete with
you will pass the relief Bull Fresco, which depicts terracotta bathtub and a water closet, touted as
a charging bull. Relief frescoes were made by the first ever to work on the flush principle;
moulding wet plaster and then painting it water was poured down by hand.
while it was still wet.
Also worth seeking out in the northern sec- Getting There & Away

IRAKLIO
tion of the palace are the giant pithoi, ceramic Bus No 2 leaves Bus Station A in Iraklio every
jars used for storing olive oil, wine and grain. 10 minutes for Knossos. From the coastal road
Evans found over 100 of them at Knossos there are signs directing you to Knossos. Be-
(some were 2m high). Once you have reached ware of touts trying to usher you into private
the Central Court, which in Minoan times was paid parking areas. There are several free car
surrounded by the high walls of the palace, parks further along closer to the site.
you can begin exploring the most important
rooms of the complex. CRETAQUARIUM
From the northern end of the west side of The massive Cretaquarium (%2810 337 788; www
the palace, steps lead down to the Throne Room. .cretaquarium.gr; adult/child 4 & over €8/6; h9am-9pm May-
This room is fenced off but you can still get a mid-Oct, 10am-5.30pm Oct-Apr) is part of the Thalas-
good view of it. The centrepiece, the simple, socosmos marine-science complex established
beautifully proportioned throne, is flanked by by the Hellenic Centre for Maritime research
the Griffin Fresco. Griffins were mythical beasts at the former American base at Gournes, 15km
regarded as sacred by the Minoans. east of Iraklio. It is the largest aquarium in the
The room is thought to have been a shrine, Eastern Mediterranean region. There are several
and the throne the seat of a high priestess, rather large tanks with an amazing display of marine
than a king. Certainly, the room seems to have life, though it is light on really big fish. There
an aura of mysticism and reverence rather than are some interactive multimedia features and
pomp and ceremony. The Minoans did not displays in several languages. It’s right on the
worship their deities in great temples but in beach, so you incorporate a swim.
small shrines, and each palace had several. North coast buses (€1.60, 30 minutes) can
On the 1st floor of this side of the palace drop you on the main road, from there it’s a
is the section Evans called the Piano Nobile, 10-minute walk. The turn-off to Kato Gouves
for he believed the reception and staterooms is well signposted on the new national road.
were here. A room at the northern end of this
floor displays copies of some of the frescoes FODELE ΦΟΔΕΛΕ
found at Knossos. pop 521
Returning to the Central Court, the impres- The pretty village of Fodele, 25km west of Irak-
sive grand staircase leads from the middle of the lio, is famous as the birthplace of El Greco (p49).
 162 A R O U N D I R A K L I O • • A r o l i t h o s lonelyplanet.com

While this is disputed, there is a small museum museum has a decent collection of household
(%2810 521 500; admission €2; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun) and agricultural items in themed displays about
dedicated to the great artist in a lovely stone rural life. There is also comfortable traditional-
building on the outskirts to the village where style accommodation (d with breakfast €55).
he is supposed to have lived as a child. There On the road from Iraklio, you will spot
are a few reproductions of his work but little Koumbedes taverna, in a restored Ottoman
enlightenment about the man and his life. mosque. It has good food and pleasant views
Opposite the museum, is the cruciform Byz- over the valley.
antine domed Church of the Panayia, built on the
site of an earlier basilica. Unfortunately it is TYLISOS ΤΎΛΙΣΟΣ
normally closed. The Minoan site (%2810 831 498; admission free;
Fodele is nonetheless an attractive village h8.30am-3pm Mon-Sat) at the small village of Tyl-
in a fertile and verdant valley with a river run- isos (til-is-os), 13km southwest of Iraklio, is for
ning through it and a few Byzantine chapels. the insatiable archaeology enthusiast. Amid
Women sit crocheting outside stores selling the village houses, three large villas dating
crafts and souvenirs that line the main street, from different periods have been excavated.
and there are café tables along the riverbank. Buses from Iraklio to Anogia go through Tyl-
Locals come here in winter and spring to eat isos. They also go past another Minoan site at
meat at the tavernas by the river. Sklavokambos, 8km closer to Anogia. The ruins
date from 1500 BC and were probably the villa
AROLITHOS ΑΡΟΛΙΘΟΣ of a district governor.
On the road to Tylisos, 11km southwest of
Iraklio, the faux Cretan village of Arolithos MYRTIA ΜΥΡΤΙΑ
(a-ro-li-thos) has an agricultural and folklife mu- Myrtia, some 15km south of Iraklio, is the
seum (%2810 821 050; www.arolithosvillage.gr; adult/child ancestral village Crete’s most famous writer
IRAKLIO

€3/1.50; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun summer; (see p53) and now home to the Nikos Kazantzakis
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat winter). Built in the mid- Museum (%2810 742 451; www.kazantzakis-museum.gr;
1980s, this family-run stone-built village has adult/student & child €3/free; h9am-7pm Mar-Oct, 10am-
pottery, weaving and blacksmiths’ workshops, a 3pm Sun Nov-Feb). The museum has an excellent
taverna, kafeneio, village shop with local handi- collection of memorabilia about the author and
crafts and a huge square that regularly hosts real his works, including movie and theatre posters
Cretan weddings and baptisms. The three-level from his works from around the world.

SIR ARTHUR EVANS & KNOSSOS

Sir Arthur John Evans (1851–1941) was the British scholar who discovered the ruins of the lost
palace at Knossos and named the civilisation Minoan after the legendary King Minos. An avid
amateur journalist and adventurer, he was curator of the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford from 1884
to 1908. His special interest in ancient coins and the writing on stone seals from Crete brought him
to the island for the first time in 1894. He had a hunch that the mainland Mycenaean civilisation
derived originally from Crete. With the help of the newly formed Cretan Archaeological society,
he began negotiating the purchase of the land, eventually securing it in 1900 after Greek laws
changed. Digging began and the palace quickly revealed itself.
Evans was so enthralled by his discovery that he spent the next 25 years and £250,000 of his
own money excavating and reconstructing sections of the palace, unearthing the remains of a
Neolithic civilisation beneath the remains of the Bronze Age Minoan palace. He also discovered
some 3000 clay tablets containing Linear A and Linear B script and wrote his own definitive de-
scription of his work at Knossos in a four-volume opus called The Palace of Minos. Evans received
many honours for his work and was knighted in 1911.
Many archaeologists have disparaged Evans’ reconstruction, believing he sacrificed accuracy
to his overly vivid imagination. Evans maintained that he was obliged to rebuild columns and
supports in reinforced concrete or the palace would have collapsed, but many archaeologists
feel that the site was irretrievably damaged. Certainly archaeologists today would not be allowed
to use so much fanciful conjecture.
lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L I R A K L I O • • A r h a n e s 163

DETOUR: KROUSONAS
In the foothills of Mt Psiloritis, the women of the village of Krousonas have created a unique
cottage industry making traditional Cretan pastry and local delicacies from their grandmother’s
recipes. The Kroussaniotissa Cooperative (%2810 711 989; h8am-11pm) has 25 women produc-
ing a mouth-watering range of sweet and savoury kalitsounia (pastries), almond biscuits, rusks,
pasta, baklava, galaktoboureko (custard pastries) and other sweets. Their specialty is the kouloura
(ornate bread) for weddings and baptisms that can take two women eight hours to decorate.
The cooperative is the biggest business in the village, catering for many weddings and social
functions, and exporting all over Greece and as far as Germany.
After stocking up on Cretan treats you can visit the nearby Moni Agia Irini. This picturesque
monastery dates from the last years of Venetian rule, but was destroyed by the Turks in 1822
and all the monks were killed. Rebuilt in 1940, today it’s occupied by nuns.
If you want to stay in this area, a good alternative to Iraklio, an excellent option is the Vigla-
toras Traditional Apartments (%2810 711 332; www.viglatoras.gr) on a farm in the nearby village
of Sarhos.

There are two buses daily from Iraklio centres and agricultural villages that see very
(€2.20, 30 minutes). few tourists. Arhanes, with a couple of interest-
ing Minoan sites nearby and excellent tavernas,
TEMENOS ΤΕΜΕΝΟΣ makes a worthwhile stop and Zaros is a good
Above the village of Profitis Ilias, 24km south- base to explore the surrounding region.
southeast of Iraklio, the Byzantine castle of Peza is the heart of the country’s wine pro-
Temenos dominates the twin peaks of Roka duction, while the village of Thrapsano makes

IRAKLIO
Hill, whose strategic position overlooking the the giant Minoan-style pottery.
north coast and the surrounding mountain
peaks made it a perfect place for a fortress. ARHANES ΑΡΧΆΝΕΣ
Byzantine ruler Nikiforos Fokas built the pop 3824
castle in 961 to protect Iraklio. There are two Arhanes, 14km south of Iraklio, is in the heart
pathways leading to its ramparts, which are an of Crete’s main wine-producing district. The
hour’s walk from the top of the village. fertile basin of Arhanes has been settled since
Despite its proximity to Iraklio, the agricul- the Neolithic period. The ancient Minoans
tural region maintains a traditional character built a grand palace that was an administra-
and sees few tourists. The best information on tive centre for the entire Arhanes basin, but
the area is from local nature enthusiast Dimi- it was destroyed along with the other great
tris Kornaros who runs Axas Outdoor Activities Minoan palaces. The town came back to life
(%2810 871 239; [email protected]). under the Mycenaeans, flourishing until the
In July and August, concerts are held in Dorian conquest in 1100 BC.
a unique venue near the nearby village of Today Arhanes is a vibrant town with me-
Kyparissi – a stone-built amphitheatre in the ticulously restored old houses and pleasant
middle of fields known as Theatro Agron. Ask squares. It’s considered a model of rural town
around or at Aerakis music store in Iraklio redevelopment and the new road from Iraklio,
for a program. which makes it an easy commute, is bringing
This area is best explored by car. people back to the village.
Irakliots regularly visit to eat at Aharnes’
fine tavernas, while locals hang out in the cafés
CENTRAL IRAKLIO around the main square. There is small but
excellent archaeological museum and a few
Although most travellers zip through the re- excellent accommodation options in restored
gion between Iraklio and the south coast, sev- old buildings.
eral sights make it well worth a stop, but you
need your own wheels to explore the area. Orientation & Information
The main roads leading south from Iraklio The village is divided into two, but the interest
pass through a series of bustling commercial is in Ano (upper) Arhanes. It’s a bit of a maze
 164 C E N T R A L I R A K L I O • • A r o u n d A r h a n e s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

getting around the one-ways streets and nar- while Ambelos (%2810 751 039), opposite the Ag-
row alleys so it’s best to park on the outskirts ricultural cooperative, is a good choice for
and follow the signs to the post office. The bus local specialties.
stops at the start of the village and close to the It is worth exploring the back streets to find
main square. There are several ATMs. You Fabrica Eleni (%2810 751 331; www.oilvisit.com), a bar-
can find accommodation and information at cum-rakadiko housed in a restored olive-oil
www.archanes.gr. press, complete with original olive press and
mini-museum featuring some of the owner’s
Sights father’s ingenious inventions.
Only scraps of the palace (signposted from
the main road) remain and most of the small Getting There & Away
sites scattered around town are not open There are buses hourly from Iraklio to Arhanes
to the public. The small but well-arranged (€1.60, 30 minutes). Drivers should take the
Archaeological Museum of Arhanes (%2810 752 712; more scenic Knossos road which has some
admission free; h8.30am-2.30pm Wed-Mon) has several interesting detours. There are several roads
interesting finds from regional excavations. into the village, the second turn-off leading
Exhibits include clay larnakes (coffins) and you close to the main square.
musical instruments from Fourni, and an
ornamental dagger from the Anemospilia AROUND ARHANES
temple (see boxed text, opposite) used for The round stone ‘beehive tombs’ at Fourni,
human sacrifice. dating from around 2500 BC, form the most
The Folk Museum of Arhanes (%2810 752 891; extensive Minoan cemetery on the island.
admission €1; h9am-1pm Mon & Wed-Fri) in a restored One of the tombs contained the remains of
stone building, is set up like a traditional a Minoan noble woman whose jewellery is
home, with a worthy collection of furniture, on display in the Archaeological Museum of
IRAKLIO

embroideries and handicrafts and the tools Iraklio. From the bus stop in Arhanes follow
of rural life, including bloomers and kids’ signs up a steep trail to the burial grounds.
toys. It’s signposted from the Archaeological About 5km south of Arhanes, Vathypetro
museum. On the outskirts of Kato Arhanes Villa (admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), dating
the Cretan Historical and Folk Museum (%2810 751 from about 1600 BC, was probably the home
853; admission €3; h9.30am-5pm) has an interest- of a prosperous Minoan noble. Archaeologists
ing private collection from various periods discovered wine and oil presses, a weaving
of Crete’s history, including personal effects loom and a kiln in storerooms. There isn’t any
of the infamous German General Kreipe (see public transport to the site, although several
p35). travel agencies in Iraklio include a visit to the
villa as part of their tours. It is well signposted
Sleeping & Eating from the town.
Neraidospilios (%2810 752 965; www.neraidospilios.gr; Some 1.5km northwest of Ano Arhanes is
studio & apt €40-70; as) These superbly ap- the Minoan site of Anemospilia (Wind Cave).
pointed and spacious studios and apartments, Discovered in 1979, this middle-Minoan sanc-
on the outskirts of the village overlooking tuary is significant because it demonstrated
the mountains, are run by the brothers at the that human sacrifice played at least some role
Diahroniko café. Go there and they will direct in Minoan society (see boxed text, opposite).
you. The pool is an added attraction. Unfortunately, the site is not open to the gen-
Villa Arhanes (%2810 390 770; www.maris.gr; apt eral public without special permission.
€129-194; as) This intimate upmarket com- From Arhanes, it is a 4.2km drive or walk
plex is in a tastefully restored 19th-century up to Mt Yiouhta, where there are great views
Cretan mansion high in the village. Guests and the remains of a Minoan peak sanctuary
can participate in rural work or other seasonal on the northern side.
village activity.
Also recommended is the Arhontiko guest HOUDETSI ΧΟΥΔΕΤΣΙ
house (%2810 751 007). pop 864
All the tavernas in town have a good repu- The otherwise unremarkable village of
tation. On the square you could try Likastos Houdetsi, is home to Labyrinth Musical Work-
(%2810 752 433) or To Spitiko (%2810 751 591), shop and a Museum of musical instruments
lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L I R A K L I O • • T h r a p s a n o 165

(%2810 741 027; www.labyrinthmusic.gr; admission €3;

MURDER IN THE TEMPLE
h10am-4pm Mar-Oct), created by much-lauded
musician and honorary Cretan Ross Daly. Human sacrifice is not commonly associated
With the help of the local municipality, Daly with the peace-loving Minoans, but the
has transformed a derelict stone manor into a evidence found at the site of Anemospilia
museum exhibiting part of his extensive col- near the village of Arhanes, 18km south
lection of mostly stringed instruments from of Iraklio, irrefutably suggests otherwise.
around the world. More than 250 rare and During excavations at a simple three-room
priceless instruments are on display and an temple in the 1980s, scientists found the
interactive audio system allows you to hear remains of a young man placed on an altar
the sound of each one. and trussed, with a huge sacrificial bronze
Each summer, leading international tradi- dagger incised with the shape of a boar-like
tional musicians attend workshops and mas- beast amid the bones. The remains of two
ter classes and hold concerts in the lovely other skeletons nearby – probably those
grounds outside the centre. Don’t be sur- of a priestess and an assistant – seemed
prised if you see Turks, Afghanis, Pakistanis, to indicate that the boy’s death was part
Bulgarians and Mongolians hanging out in of a sacrificial rite. Perhaps the sacrifice
Houdetsi. Daly, who is of Irish descent, is was made just as the 1700 BC earthquake
one of the leading exponents of the Cretan began, in a desperate attempt to appease
lyra and master of the modal non-harmonic the gods.
music of Greece, the Balkans, Turkey, the
Middle East, North Africa and North India.
He has released more than 25 recordings (see Workshops scattered around the town are
p52). normally happy to let visitors see them at
A new accommodation option in Houdetsi work. You can watch the giant pots being

IRAKLIO
is the restored stone Petronikolis Traditional made at the traditional Nikos Doxastakis work-
House (%2810 743 203; www.petronikolis.gr; apt €60- shop (%2891 041 160) up towards the municipal
70; ai). Four spacious apartments are offices, while Vasilakis Pottery (%2891 041 666),
decorated in traditional style (except for just past the lake turn-off, has smaller pieces
the Indonesian dining settings), including you can take home, as has Koutrakis Art (%2891
some original agricultural equipment from 041 000), on the road into town.
the family estate. The family also has an at- Beyond some well-preserved frescoes in the
tractive farmhouse 1.5km away in the middle 15th century two-aisled Timios Stavros church
of a vineyard and olive grove that sleeps up in the middle of the village, there’s little to
to four. see or do.
In town, the best dining option is Roussos Just outside the town on the road north to
Taverna (%2810 742 189; hJun-Oct lunch & dinner, Apostoli is the Livada Lake, a preserved wetland
Nov-May dinner only Tue-Sun), known for excellent with a bird-watching lookout and a run-down
Cretan cooking. covered picnic area. The lake has doubled
The steep dirt road above the village takes in size over time as potters have extracted
you over the hill to breathtaking views of the clay from the lakebed. At the time of writing,
new Tamiolakis Winery (see p166). a massive pottery museum was being con-
There are three buses daily to Houdetsi structed near the lake.
(€2.20, 45 minutes). On the way to the lake you will pass the
Panagia Pigadiotissa church, past the cemetery,
THRAPSANO ΘΡΑΨΑΝΟ where a monument has been built around
pop 1381 an old ‘miracle’ well. Local legend has it that
Thrapsano, 32km south of Iraklio, attracts few when anything (including people) fell into the
visitors other than those visiting the town’s well, the water rose to the top and saved them
pottery workshops. Thrapsano is a thriving cen- from drowning.
tre for the production of huge distinctive Mi- From Iraklio, Thrapsano is best reached
noan-style pithoi that grace countless hotels, via the Knossos road, turning off at the vil-
restaurants and homes across the island and lage of Agies Paraskies, near Peza. There are
are exported throughout the world. An annual four buses daily to Thrapsano from Iraklio
pottery festival takes place in mid-July. (€3.10, one hour).
 166 C E N T R A L I R A K L I O • • Av d o u lonelyplanet.com

WINE COUNTRY
The region south of Iraklio is Crete’s prime vineyard, with about 70 per cent of wine produced
in Crete coming from the Peza area. Along with Arhanes and Dafnes, these areas cultivate many
Cretan grape varieties and produce designated appellation of origin wines.
There are growing opportunities for wine tasting. The impressive Boutari Winery (%2810
731 617; www.boutari.gr; 1hr tour & tasting €4.50, tasting only €4; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat &
Sun), near Skalani, about 8km from Iraklio, is set on a hill in the middle of the Fantaxometoho
estate, with an elegant tasting room and showroom overlooking the vineyard. Tours of the
vineyard and winery include a quirky futuristic video on Crete in the cellar cinema, where you
watch the high-tech show wearing headphones (choice of four languages) and learn how to
taste wine.
You can also taste local wines in the heart of the wine region at Peza. The massive Minos winery
(%2810 741 213; www.minoswines.gr; tasting free, video & tour €2; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) and
the Pezas Union of local producers (%2810 741 945; www.pezaunion.gr; admission free; h9am-4pm
Mon-Sat) have tastings and videos, as well as mini-museums of the local wine industry. All sell
wine at cheaper than retail prices.
A new boutique winery worth visiting is the superbly located Tamiolakis Winery (%2810 742
083; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) in Houdetsi. This organic winery is one of Crete’s excellent new gen-
eration wineries, with Bordeaux-trained winemakers, state-of-the art equipment, visitor friendly
facilities – and some fine wines using Cretan varietals. Their elegant tasting room overlooks the
vineyards in a picturesque valley.

AVDOU ΑΒΔΟΥ a lovely pool overlooking the valley. It is worth

IRAKLIO

pop 320 the trip just to eat at the attached taverna.

The sleepy agricultural village of Avdou is Accommodation options in Avdou are at
only a 20-minute drive from the north coast the extreme ends of the spectrum. The two
town of Malia, but the two worlds could not totally basic rooms in the village above Micha-
be further apart. Half the houses in the vil- lis Markantonakis’ Pantopoleion (%2897 051 243;
lage seem to be abandoned, while the rest are r incl breakfast €20) are clean but barely fit two
spruced up and flower-filled, including some beds and share a communal wash basin and
restored by foreigners. toilet on the balcony. You have to go to the
If you follow the signs to the town centre owner’s home to shower. Michalis also runs
you will pass a mini-market and, turning the taverna opposite, so you can have your
left at the giant plane tree, come to a small dinner grilled downstairs and pour your own
square with a café, with a store and a cou- wine from the barrels in the storeroom across
ple of tavernas further along. There are four the street.
Byzantine churches around the village but Avdou Villas (%2810 300 540; www.avdou.com; apt
the only one you can normally find open €129-240; as) is a significantly more upmar-
is the Agios Antonios church, which has some ket rural complex on a farm just outside the
surviving frescoes. Ask a taverna for the key village with fully self-contained apartments
if it is locked. with all the modcons.
Apart from the odd griffin vulture, a com- You can get a decent meal at Strovili (%2897
mon sight in the skies above Avdou is the 051 039) on the main road next to the church,
paragliders from the Avdou-based Interna- opposite the children’s playground.
tional Centre of Natural Activities (%2897 051 200; There are two buses daily to Avdou from
www.ic na.gr). Iraklio (€3.50, 30 minutes). From the main
You can go horse riding up in the hills at coastal highway, turn off at Malia for the vil-
Odysseia Stables (%2897 051 080; www.horseriding.gr), lage of Mohos.
in a stunning location about 2km along a dirt
road from Avdou. Manolis Frangakis and his ZAROS ΖΑΡΌΣ
Dutch wife Sabine also run the adjacent classy pop 2081
Velani Country Hotel (www.countryhotel.gr; r €50-70), a If the name rings a bell, it’s probably because
relaxing place with simple, stylish rooms and ‘Zaros’ is the label on the litres of mineral
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L I R A K L I O • • Z a r o s 167

water you’ve been guzzling. Around 46km ter to do it the other way around and end up
southwest of Iraklio, Zaros is a refreshingly at the lake for lunch.
unspoilt traditional village that’s known for On the main road in town is the lyra work-
its spring water and bottling plant. Various shop (%2894 031 249) of well-known instrument
excavations in the region indicate that the maker Antonis Stefanakis, whose hand-made
Minoans and the Romans settled here, lured lyras are sold around the world. The workshop
by the abundant supply of fresh water. The was to relocate to his newly built studios in
spring water from Zaros also supplied the the top of the village, where he was planning
great Roman capital of Gortyna: Byzantine to display his collection of costumes from his
monasteries are nearly as abundant as the days as a leading folk dancer.
spring water. You can visit several of them and
also walk the stunning Rouvas gorge. Zaros Sleeping & Eating
makes an ideal base for walkers and is rela- Studios Keramos (%/fax 2894 031 352; s/d incl break-
tively close to the nearby beaches of Kommos fast €30/45; a) Close to the village centre, this
and the area’s archaeological sites. homely hotel run by the friendly Katerina is
decorated with Cretan crafts, weaving and
Orientation & Information family heirlooms. Many of the rooms and
The business end of Zaros is at the south- studios have antique beds and furniture, some
ern entrance of the town. The post office have TV and kitchenette. Katerina is up early
and a supermarket are across the street from cooking up a scrumptious and copious tradi-
the police station. There’s an ATM on the tional Cretan breakfast – don’t miss it.
main street. Eleonas (%2894 031 238; www.eleonas.gr; apts €56;
as) This is an attractive upscale mountain
Sights & Activities retreat set among the olive groves and terraced
If you have your own wheels, the Byzantine along the hillside overlooking a verdant valley.

IRAKLIO
monasteries and traditional villages tucked The smartly appointed apartments have all the
away in the hills are worth exploring. Take the mod cons including satellite TV and DVD
road that leads west from Zaros and you will players and cooking facilities. Horse riding,
see a sign directing you to Moni Agiou Nikolaou, archery, mountain bikes and guided walking
which is at the mouth of the verdant Rou- tours are on offer or you can just hang by the
vas Gorge. The monastery still houses several pool. There’s a decent taverna attached.
monks and the church contains some 14th- I Limni (%2894 031 338; trout per kg €22; h9am-late)
century paintings. A few kilometres further Right on the lake, this taverna is a peaceful
is the Moni Agiou Andoniou Vrondisiou, which oasis serving fresh grilled trout and Cretan
is noteworthy for its 15th-century Venetian specialties. The basket of starters that comes
fountain and early 14th-century frescoes from out with the bread adds a nice touch.
the Cretan School. oVengera (%2894 031 730) On the main
The drive to the monasteries and further on street, this excellent taverna is run by viva-
to the traditional mountain villages of Vorizia cious Vivi and her mother Irini, who cook
and Kamares is particularly scenic. From there, five or six traditional dishes daily. They also
you can hike inland and up to Mt Psiloritis. do special €25 meal- and- accommodation
You have a choice of heading westwards along deals in nearby studios.
the E4 trail down the mountain to Fourfouras Votomos (%2894 031 0710; trout per kg €27) Trout
or eastwards along the same trail down to the is the speciality at this taverna and trout farm
Nida Plateau. There is also a paved road to the just outside town past the Idi hotel.
village of Anogia. A short drive from Zaros, in the neighbour-
The Zaros bottling plant in the northern end ing village of Nyvritos, the traditional-style
of town will usually allow you to take a look at kafeneio Nivritos (%2894 031 296) has superb
operations. A short distance before the plant home-style food and doubles as an outlet for
you will come to a lovely shady park, Votomos, herbalist owner Dimitris Tsakalakis’ range of
with a small lake, a taverna and a children’s Cretan herbs.
playground, which makes a great picnic stop.
From the lake, there is a walking path to Moni Getting There & Away
Agiou Nikolaou (900m) and the entry to Rou- There are two buses daily to Zaros from Irak-
vas Gorge (2.5km), although it would be bet- lio (€4.10, one hour).
 168 S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • G o r t y n a lonelyplanet.com

dates from the Roman period. Gortyna’s cen-

SOUTHERN IRAKLIO turies of splendour came to an end in AD
824 when the Saracens raided the island and
The main highway that runs from Tymbaki destroyed the city.
to Pyrgos divides the northern part of the The vastness of the site indicates how im-
Iraklio prefecture from the southern coastal portant Gortyna city was to the Romans. The
resorts. Along the highway are busy com- city sprawls over a square kilometre of plains,
mercial centres, such as Tymbaki, Mires, Agii foothills and the summit of Mt Agios Ioan-
Deka and Pyrgos, that market the agricul- nis. At one time there must have been ducts
tural produce from the surrounding region. and an aqueduct that brought water from
Although these towns hold little interest for the springs of Votomos lake, 15km away, to
tourists they do give a sense of the dynamism service their elaborate systems of fountains
of the Cretan economy. and public baths. There also must have been
The south-central region of Crete is blessed streets and a town square, but these have not
with a trio of important archaeological sites been excavated.
– Phaestos, Agia Triada and Gortyna – and a Although Italian archaeologist Federico
cluster of minor sites spanning Cretan history Halbherr first explored the site during the
from the Minoans to the Romans. Getting 1880s, excavations are continuing.
from one to the other ideally requires private Beginning south of the main road you’ll
transport or joining a comprehensive sites first come to the Temple of the Pythian Apollo,
tour from Iraklio. Either way, allow some time which was the main sanctuary of pre-Roman
to see the sites and consider basing yourself Gortyna. Built in the 7th century BC, the tem-
here for a day or two. ple was expanded in the 3rd century BC and
When you get tired of poking around an- converted into a Christian basilica in the 2nd
cient ruins, the south-coast beaches of Matala, century AD. Nearby is the Praetorium that was
IRAKLIO

Kommos, Kalamaki and Lendas beckon with the palace of the Roman governor of Crete, an
long stretches of sandy beach. The road to administrative building with a basilica and
the Agiofarango gorge takes you past the his- a private residence. Most of the ruins date
toric Moni Odigitrias. Further to the east are from the 2nd century AD and were repaired
the quiet beach communities of Kastri and in the 4th century. To the north is the 2nd-
Keratokambos. century Nymphaeum, a public bath supplied by
an aqueduct bringing water from Zaros. It was
GORTYNA ΓΟΡΤΥΝΑ originally adorned with statues of nymphs.
The archaeological site of Gortyna (%2892 031 South of the Nymphaeum is the amphitheatre,
144; admission €4; h8am-7.30pm, to 5pm winter), 46km which dates from the late 2nd century AD.
southwest of Iraklio, is the largest in Crete and The most impressive monument within the
one of the most fascinating. Also called Gortyn fenced area is the Church of Agios Titos, which
or Gortys, Gortyna (gor-tih- nah) doesn’t have is the finest early-Christian church in Crete.
much from the Minoan period because it was It was probably built on the site of an earlier
little more than a subject town of powerful church, but this construction dates from the
Phaestos until it began accumulating riches 6th century. The stone cruciform church has
(mostly from piracy) under the Dorians. By two small apses and contains three levels,
the 5th century BC, however, it was as influ- with the surviving apse providing a hint of
ential as Knossos. When the island was under its former magnificence. Nearby is the Odeion,
threat from the Romans, the Gortynians clev- a theatre built around the 1st century BC.
erly made a pact with them and, when the Behind the Odeion is a plane tree that, ac-
Romans conquered the island in 67 BC, they cording to legend, served as a love nest for
made Gortyna the island’s capital. The city Zeus and Europa.
blossomed under the Roman administrators Beyond the Odeion is the star attraction –
who endowed it with lavish public buildings, the stone tablets engraved with the 6th-cen-
including a Praetorium, amphitheatre, public tury-BC Laws of Gortyna. The 600 lines written
baths, a music school and temples. Except for in a Dorian dialect were the earliest law code
the 7th century BC Temple of the Pythian in the Greek world. Ancient Cretans were
Apollo and the 7th century AD Church of preoccupied with the same issues that drive
Agios Titos, most of what you see in Gortyna people into court today – marriage, divorce,
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • P h a e s t o s 169

property transfers, inheritance and adoption, Phaestos (fes-tos), has the most awe-inspiring
as well as criminal offences. They provide an location of all the Minoan sites. The layout of
insight into the social organisation of pre- the palace is similar to Knossos, with rooms
Roman Crete. It was an extremely hierarchical arranged around a central court.
society, divided into slaves and several catego- Pottery deposits indicate that the site was
ries of free citizens, each of whom had strictly inhabited in the Neolithic era around 4000
delineated rights and obligations. BC, when the first settlers established them-
It’s a bit of a hike but it’s worth visiting the selves on the slopes of Kastri Hill. The first
Acropolis at the top of the hill in the northwest palace was built around 2000 BC and then de-
corner of the site. Following the road along stroyed by the earthquake that levelled many
the stream near the Odeion you will come Minoan palaces. The ruins were covered with
to a gate beyond the theatre that marks the a layer of lime and debris, which formed the
start of the path to the top. In addition to a base of a new palace that was begun around
bird’s-eye view of the entire site, the acropo- 1700 BC. It, too, was destroyed in the catas-
lis contains impressive sections of the pre- trophe that befell the island in 1450 BC. In
Roman ramparts. the intervening centuries Phaestos was the
Buses to Phaestos from Iraklio also stop at political and administrative centre of the Me-
Gortyna; see p171 for details. sara Plain. Ancient texts refer to the palace’s
importance and note that it minted its own
PHAESTOS ΦΑΙΣΤΟΣ coins. Although Phaestos continued to be in-
The Minoan site of Phaestos (%2892 042 315; habited in later centuries, it fell into decline
admission €4/2, incl Agia Triada €6; h8am-7.30pm Jun-Oct, as Gortyna rose in importance. Under the
8am-5pm Nov-Apr), 63km from Iraklio, was the Dorians, Phaestos headed a battling league
second-most important palatial city in all of of cities that included Matala and Polyrrinia
Minoan Crete. With amazing, all-embracing in western Crete. Phaestos was defeated by

IRAKLIO
views of the Mesara Plain and Mt Psiloritis, Gortyna in the 2nd century BC.

0 200 m
GORTYNA 0 0.1 miles

A B C D

1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Church of Agios Titos..................6 A2

Acropolis......................................1 A1 Metropolis Village........................7 A3
Agia Deka (Graves of the 10 Nymphaeum................................8 B2
1 Saints)..................................... 2 D2 Odeion and Laws of Gortyna.......9 A1
Amphitheatre...............................3 C3 Praetorium.................................10 B2
Aqueduct.....................................4 C1 Roman Baths..............................11 B3
Basilica.........................................5 A3 Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods..12 B2
15
Stadium.....................................13 C3
9
Temple of Pythian Apollo...........14 B2
4 Theatre......................................15 A1
Theatre......................................16 B2
To Phaestos
(15km) 6

12

2
14 8
16 10

2
To Iraklio
(45km)

11 3

5
3
7

To Platanos (6km); 13
Lendas (33km)
 170 S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • P h a e s t o s lonelyplanet.com

Excavation of the site began in 1900 by Pro- Theatral Area that was once the staging ground
fessor Federico Halbherr of the Italian School for performances. The seats are at the north-
of Archaeology, which continues the excava- ern end, and the southern end contains the
tion work. In contrast to Knossos, Phaestos west facade of the Old Palace. The 15m-wide
has yielded few frescoes; it seems the palace grand stairway leads to the Propylon, which was
walls were mostly covered with a layer of white a porch. Below the Propylon are the storerooms
gypsum. There has been no reconstruction of that still contain pithoi (storage urns). The
these ruins. The difficulty of visualising the square hall next to the storerooms is thought
structure of the palace is further compounded to have been an office, where tablets contain-
by the fact that the site includes remains of the ing Linear A script were found beneath the
Old Palace and the New Palace. floor in 1955. South of the storeroom a cor-
ridor led to the west side of the Central Court.
Exploring the Site South of the corridor is a lustral basin, rooms
Past the ticket booth, the Upper Court that with benches and a pillar crypt similar to that
was used in both the Old and New Palaces at Knossos. The Central Court is the cen-
contains the remains of buildings from the trepiece of the palace, affording spectacular
Hellenistic era. A stairway leads down to the views of the surrounding area. It is extremely

PHAESTOS 0 50 m
IRAKLIO

Upper 8 1
Court

15
12

North
Court
18
7 4
14 20

6
5
19 17 11
East
Court
3 Central
Court
16
9
Archive..............................................1 C2
Classical Temple.................................2 B4
13
Corridor..............................................3 B3
Corridor.............................................4 C2
Formal Doorway................................5 C2
Furnace..............................................6 D2
10
Grand Stairway...................................7 B2
King's Megaron..................................8 C2
Lustral Basin.......................................9 B3
Neolithic Hut....................................10 C3
Office...............................................11 C3
2
Peristyle Court..................................12 C2
Pillar Crypt........................................13 B3
Propylon...........................................14 B2
Queen's Megaron............................15 C2
Rooms with Benches........................16 C3
Storerooms.......................................17 B2
Theatral Area....................................18 B2
West Façade of the Old Palace.........19 B2
Workshops.......................................20 C2
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • Agi a T r i a d a 171

well preserved and gives a good sense of the tos Disk (above) was found in a building to
magnificence of the palace. Porticoes with the north of the palace. It now resides in the
columns and pillars once lined the long sides Archaeological Museum of Iraklio (p149).
of the Central Court. Notice the Neolithic hut
at the southwestern corner of the Central Getting There & Away
Court. The best-preserved parts of the palace Eight buses a day head to Phaestos from Irak-
complex are the reception rooms and private lio (€5.70, 1½ hours), stopping at Gortyna.
apartments to the north of the Central Court, There are also buses from Agia Galini (€2.80,
where excavations continue. Enter through 45 minutes, five daily) and Matala (€1.60, 30
the Formal Doorway with half columns at ei- minutes, five daily).
ther side, the lower parts of which are still in
situ. The corridor leads to the north court; AGIA TRIADA ΑΓΙΑ ΤΡΙΑΔΑ
the Peristyle Court, which once had a paved ve- The small Minoan site of Agia Triada (%2892 091
randa, is to the left of here. The royal apart- 564; admission €3, incl Phaestos €6; h10am-4.30pm sum-
ments (Queen’s Megaron and King’s Megaron) are mer, 8.30am-3pm winter) is 3km west of Phaestos in
northeast of the Peristyle Court but they are an enchanting landscape surrounded by hills
currently fenced off. The celebrated Phaes- and orange groves. Like the site of Phaestos,

AGIA TRIADA 0 50 m

Archives Room...................................1 A3
Court of Shrines.................................2 C3
Entrance.............................................3 C3
Hall....................................................4 A3
Inner Chamber...................................5 A3
Light Well..........................................6 A3

IRAKLIO
Magazines and Workshops................7 A4
Market...............................................8 C2
Minoan House...................................9 C3
Rampa Al Mare................................10 C3
Shrine..............................................11 C4
Storerooms.......................................12 B3
Town...............................................13 C2

13

10

3
6 12

4 5

2 9

11
 172 S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • V o r i lonelyplanet.com

it appears that Agia Triada has been occupied and the herbs, flora and fauna that form the
since the Neolithic era. basis of the Cretan diet. There some are some
Masterpieces of Minoan art, such as the beautiful weavings, furniture, woodcarvings
vases now in the Archaeological Museum of and musical instruments. The museum is well
Iraklio (p149), were found here, but the palace signposted from the main road.
was clearly not as important as the palace at There are a few tavernas around the lovely
Phaestos. Its principal building was smaller main square. Signposted about 400m up
than the other royal palaces, but the fact that from the museum are the Portokali Apartments
is was built to a similar design and the opu- (%2892 091 188; www.portokali.messara.de; studio €30;
lence of the objects found indicate that it was a), four excellent good-value studios set in a
a royal residence, possibly a summer palace garden with BBQ facilities and lots of homely
of Phaestos’ rulers. touches. They have bikes for guests.
After the entrance, you will first pass the
ruins of a Minoan House before reaching the MATALA ΜΑΤΑΛΑ
shrine that dates from the early 14th century pop 101
BC. It once contained a frescoed floor painted Matala (ma-ta-la), on the coast 11km south-
with octopuses and dolphins, which is now in west of Phaestos, was once one of Crete’s best-
the Archaeological Museum of Iraklio. North- known hippie hang-outs. When you see the
west of the shrine is a paved courtyard that dozens of eerie caves speckling the rock slab
excavators called the Court of Shrines. Notice on the edge of the beach, you’ll see why ’60s
the magazines and workshops in the southwest hippies found it, like, groovy (see boxed text,
wing of the palace; the ‘Chieftain’s Cup’ was opposite). The caves were originally Roman
found in one of these rooms. North of the tombs cut out of the sandstone rock in the 1st
workshops you will come to a hall and then century AD and have been used as dwellings
the inner chamber that contains a raised slab for many centuries. Windows, doors and beds
IRAKLIO

that might have supported a bed, indicating were carved out of the soft rock.
that these were the residential quarters. The Since those halcyon hippy days, however,
archives room once contained over 200 seal Matala has gone the way of many beach
stones and a wall painting of the wild cat of towns, expanding to the point where much
Crete, which is now in the Archaeological of its original appeal has been lost. These days
Museum of Iraklio. The Rampa al Mare, a ramp it is a struggling resort that depends on day
that runs beneath the north side of the palace, trippers from the area’s archaeological sites.
is thought to have run down to the sea at one The town is dominated by a tacky market
point. A path leads from the fenced site along selling souvenirs and clothing.
the hillside to a Minoan cemetery that dates Matala still has its loyal returnees every
from around 2000 BC. There are two circular summer. There is a beautiful sandy beach
beehive tombs. below the caves and the resort is a convenient
There is no public transport to Agia Triada base to visit Phaestos and Agia Triada.
and the site is about a 5km walk from any Matala and the area around it is a popular
major village. The road to Agia Triada takes nesting ground for Caretta caretta sea turtles.
off to the right about 500m from Phaestos on The Sea Turtle Protection Society has a booth
the road to Matala. near the car park.

VORI ΒΏΡΟΙ Orientation & Information

pop 744 The bus stop is on the central square, one
The pleasant unspoilt village of Vori, 4km east block back from the waterfront, and there is
of Tymbaki, has an attractive main square sur- parking before the town and beach (€2). There
rounded by winding streets of whitewashed are ATMs in the village.
houses. The surprise attraction here is the Monza Travel (%28920 45757) Changes money.
outstanding private Museum of Cretan Ethnology Zafiria Internet (%28920 45496; per hr €4; h8am-
(%2892 091 112/0; admission €3; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, by late)
appointment in winter), which provides a fascinating
insight into traditional Cretan culture. The Sights & Activities
English-labelled exhibits follow themes such The caves are fenced off at night, but there
as rural life, war, customs, architecture, music, was no guard or entry charge when we were
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • A r o u n d M a t a l a 173

there. For a less crowded beach, head to Kokkini is better than average. It is also a good place
Ammos (Red Beach). It’s about a 30-minute for a drink as it gets lively in the evening.
scramble south over the rocks and attracts a Gianni’s (%2892 045 719; mains €5-7), towards the
smattering of nudists. end of the main street, is a no-frills place that
You can also take a beach or mountain has good-value grills, including a mixed grill
ride in the area through Melanouri Horse Farm with salad and potatoes (€7).
(%2892 045 040; www.melanouri.com) in nearby Head out of town 1.2km to the Mystical View
Pitsidia. (%6944 139 164) tavern with spectacular sunset
views over Kommos beach.
Sleeping & Eating
The street running inland to the left of the Getting There & Away
main drag is lined with budget accommoda- There are five buses daily between Iraklio and
tion, which makes it easy to haggle for the Matala (€6.80, 2½ hours), and Matala and
best deal. Hotels are reasonably priced off- Phaestos (€1.60, 30 minutes).
season.
Matala Community Camping (%/fax 2892 045 720; AROUND MATALA
sites per person/tent €4.30/3) A reasonable, shaded, There are several other bases from which to
although rather uneven, site just back from explore this southern pocket of Iraklio, espe-
the beach. cially if you stay in an inland village.
Fantastic Rooms to Rent (%2892 045 362; fax 2892 Pitsidia, 5km northeast of Matala off the
045 292; s/d/tr €20/25/25, d & tr with kitchen €30; a) Has main road, is quiet during the day when most
been here since the hippie heydays, and has people are at the beach, but has a pleasant
added a newer block at the back. The rooms village ambience in the evenings. Pension Aret-
are plain but comfortable, many with kitch- oussa (%2892 045 555; www.pensionaretoussa.com; s/d/tr
enette, phone, kettle and fridge. €27/33/45) on the main road has garden terrace

IRAKLIO
Pension Andonios (%2892 045 123; fax 2892 045 690; d/ out the front for breakfast. The rooms are clean,
tr €25/30) Run by the genial Antonis, this comfort- nicely decorated with paintings by the owner,
able pension has attractively furnished rooms Michalis, and nice touches like mosquito nets.
set around a lovely courtyard, many with kitch- The back rooms have access to a private garden
enette, and the top rooms have balconies. making them ideal for families.
Hotel Zafiria (%2892 045 366; fax 2892 045 725; d incl Apart from the great wood-oven pizzas,
breakfast €40; pas) The sprawling Zafiria takes Bodikos Rooms & Pizzeria (%2892 045 438; www
up a whole block on Matala’s main street. There .bodikos-matala.com; d €35) place has large comfort-
is a spacious lobby bar and the comfortable able studios and rooms upstairs, as well as some
rooms have balconies, sea views and telephones, family accommodation nearby.
and there’s a pool a beneath the cliffs. In town, the places to hang out in the
Eating in Matala is hardly an experience in evening are the friendly Mike’s (%28920 45007)
haute cuisine, and little to distinguish any of and Eva and Nikos (%2892 045 497), a popular
the tourist joints on the waterfront. Overlook- taverna on the main square.
ing the beach, Lions (%2892 045 108; specials €6-9) Buses to Matala stop on the main road. The
has been popular for many years and the food village square is inland.

THE HIPPIE CONNECTION

Long before Mykonos was hip and Ios was hot, Matala was host to a colony of flower children
and alternative lifestylers who, in the late 1960s and early 1970s, turned Matala into a modern
troglodyte city.
Drawn by the lure of free cave accommodation, a gorgeous beach, a smattering of low-key,
cheap tavernas, free love and copious pot, Matala’s hippies came in droves and hung around –
wearing little more than headbands and guitars. They moved ever higher up the cliff to avoid
sporadic attempts by the local police to evict them. Singer Joni Mitchell was among the hippies
who lived in the caves. In ‘Carey’ from her 1970’s album Blue she sang: but let’s not talk about
fare-thee-wells now, the night is a starry dome and they’re playin’ that scratchy rock and roll beneath
the Matala moon.
 174 S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • K o m m o s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

DETOUR: Towards the Agiofarango Gorge

There is something truly divine about this isolated southwest pocket of Iraklio, which combines
a visit to a monastery, a picturesque and easy gorge walk and rewards you with a swim in an
isolated cove.
About 7km from the turn-off for Sivas is Moni Odigitrias (%2892 042 364; h9am-8pm), a historic
monastery with a preserved tower from which the monks fought off the Turks, Germans and the
odd pirate. These days they’ll let you climb up for superb views. The monastery was a base for
many monks who lived as hermits in the surrounding caves and remote chapels. There is small
museum with the original olive and wine presses, giant pots, a raki still and other agricultural
tools. The Panagia church has some 15th-century frescos and icons.
A signposted track opposite the monastery marks the trail to the less-traversed Agiofarango
(Holy gorge). From this point it is an hour walk to the start of the gorge. You can drive further
along down a dirt road and leave the car at a point where it is only about 20 minutes to the gorge
entrance, but it can be pretty rough. The picturesque gorge is bedecked with oleander and its
steep rock face makes it a popular spot for climbers. There are caves and makeshift chapels and
hermitages in the cliffs, and right in the gorge at the half way point is the Byzantine chapel of
Agios Antonios. The gorge emerges at a lovely pebble cove and crystal-clear beach, which most
of the time is only occupied by other walkers (and the occasional excursion boat).
On the way back, reward yourself with a stop at the Kafeneio Xasou (%2892 042 804; mezedes
€2.50-4; hTue-Sat 4pm-11pm, Sun 10am-11pm) on the main road as you pass the village of Listaros.
The owners moved here from Athens for a quiet life and are active environmentalists. Sylla is
also a mean cook, experimenting with traditional recipes with superb results.
IRAKLIO

Further north from Pitsidia, about 2km in- Kommos is about 3km north of Matala and
land from the main road is the pretty village of makes for a pleasant walk.
Sivas, which has a lively main square and many
heritage-protected stone buildings. KAMILARI ΚΑΜΗΛΆΡΙ
oSigelakis (%28920 42748; mains €5-6; pop 263
hdinner only) is a popular dinner option just Built on three hills, Kamilari is a traditional
off the square. Friendly owner Yiorgos is re- village with impossible narrow streets wind-
nowned for his traditional cooking and dishes ing through the centre of town. It’s no secret,
such as the delicious goat in tomato sauce, but it has not yet been adversely affected by
the grilled mushrooms and a tasty eggplant tourism. Most of the accommodation is on
slice with garlic and tomato. He has also built the outskirts of town and locals generally
comfortable and attractive new studios (www outnumber visitors. Its proximity to Kala-
.sigelakis-studios.gr; r €45-50) nearby. maki Beach and central location make it a
good base to explore the south-coast beaches
KOMMOS ΚΌΜΜΟΣ and archaeological sites.
The archaeological site of Kommos, 12km In the middle of fields about 3km from
southwest of Mires along a beautiful beach, the village is an important and extraordinar-
is still being excavated by American and Ca- ily well-preserved circular Minoan tomb with
nadian archaeologists. Although the site is stone walls still standing two metres high.
fenced off it’s easy to get an idea of it from Clay models depicting the funerary rituals
the outside. Kommos is believed to have been unearthed by excavators are in the Archaeo-
the port for Phaestos and contains a wealth of logical Museum of Iraklio (p149). The road
Minoan structures. It’s even possible to spot to the tomb is signposted at the entrance to
the layout of the ancient town, with its streets Kamilari. It is a good half-hour walk.
and courtyards, and the remains of work-
shops, dwellings and temples. Notice the Mi- Sleeping & Eating
noan road paved in limestone that leads from Apartments Ambeliotissa (%/fax 2892 042 690; www
the southern section inland towards Phaestos; .ambeliotissa.com; studio €25-50; as) This family-
the ruts in the road from Minoan carts and a friendly place has pleasant furnished studios
sewer on its northern side are still visible. and apartments with balconies overlooking
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • K a l a m a k i 175

the garden and kitchen facilities. There’s is great at night. Rooms of different sizes and
an outdoor BBQ and playground and they configurations sleep up to six.
have bikes for guests. They also run Studios Pension Galini (%2892 045 042; www.kreta-kalamaki
Pelekanos nearby. .com; r & apt €30-60; a) About 30m away from the
Plaka Apartments (%2892 042 697; www.plakakreta beach, this attractive complex has spacious
.com; d €30-35; a) These lovely well-appointed rooms and apartments sleeping up to six, with
apartments on a hill just outside the village balconies, fully equipped kitchens satellite
have balconies with sea views and are deco- TV and internet connectivity. There’s also a
rated in cool blue and white shades. There is rooftop terrace with sea views.
a garden with sun lounges in the back. Ask Yiannis (%2892 045 685; mixed mezedes spread €7-9)
at Taverna Mylonas. It’s easy to miss this tiny place, behind the
Asterousia Apartments (% 28920 42832; www hotels that blocked the sea views. But Yian-
.asterousia.com; studio €35-50) The hammock out the nis retains a loyal following for his excellent
front, a scattering of antiques and brightly no-nonsense mezedes at reasonable prices –
painted open-plan rooms give this place a he usually makes about 18 types of mezedes
great ambience. There’s a big old table on (€1.80 to €2.50), including lots of vegetarian
the veranda and a nice garden, making it a dishes, and there’s always a complimentary
good base for longer stays and families. glass of raki.
Taverna Mylonas (%2892 042 156; mains €5.50-6.50) Delfinia (%2829 045 697; fish per kg €30-45) This
This place has good home-cooked Cretan food fish taverna at the northern end of the beach
in the centre of the village, and they have also is one of the most highly regarded in the area.
added some Italian and Chinese-style dishes. They also do a great range of mezedes.
There are great views of the surrounding
mountains from the tables on the terrace. Getting There & Away
Kentriko (%2892 042 191; mains €5.50-6.50) In a There is one bus daily from Iraklio’s Bus Sta-

IRAKLIO
restored stone kafeneio on the narrow main tion B via Mires (€6.80, two hours).
drag, this place is run by the friendly Greek-
Australian Irini, who has black- and- white KAPETANIANA ΚΑΠΕΤΑΝΙΑΝΑ
photos of village families on the walls. It also pop 98
has internet access. There are two main reasons to take the jour-
ney through the Mesara plain and make the
Getting There & Away winding steep ascent to the remote mountain
There is one bus daily from Iraklio’s Bus Sta- hamlet of Kapetaniana – climbing and walk-
tion B via Mires (€6, 1½ hours). ing. Perched on the lower slows of Mt Kofinas
(1231m), about 60km from Iraklio, Kapeta-
KALAMAKI ΚΑΛΑΜΆΚΙ niana (from the word ‘captain’) was where
pop 71 the Cretan rebel leaders lived and where,
The wide, sandy beach that stretches for many much later, some hippies from Matala came
kilometres in either direction is Kalamaki’s hiding from the police. Today this wild and
best feature and makes for a pleasant walk. picturesque spot is popular territory for seri-
Located 2.5km southwest of Kamilari, tourism ous walkers and nature lovers. Mt Kofinas is
here is in its embryonic stage. It’s a quiet place also the most popular climbing destination in
to stay and the swimming is good. Crete (see p74). The village is divided into an
There is one main road leading into the upper and lower village.
village square, which is right behind the beach. In Ano (upper) Kapetaniana, the delightful
Monza Travel (%/fax 28920 45692; h9am-2pm & 5- guesthouse Pension Kofinas (%28930 41440; www
10pm) handles car and bike rentals, hotel res- .korifi.de; s/d €20/25) is operated by Austrian ex-
ervations, air and boat tickets, and excursions hippies Gunnar and Louisa, who moved there
around Crete. in the ’80s when there was no sealed road (it
was finished in 2005). They run guided walks
Sleeping & Eating and organise hiking tours. They have only
Kostas (%/fax 28920 45692; www.kreta-kalamaki.com; d four rooms, one with dorm bunks, which all
€25-70; a) These rooms above Monza Travel share an external toilet. Bookings are essential.
have fridges, TV and coffee-making equip- Gourmet chef Gunnar rustles up a scrump-
ment, and enjoy a communal roof garden that tious dinner for guests (€12-15 including
 176 S O U T H E R N I R A K L I O • • Le n d a s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

wine) on the terrace, which has superb views rooms are simple but clean, with basic bath-
of Kofinas and out to sea. rooms and a fridge. There’s a central commu-
In Kato Kapetaniana, about 15 houses were nal kitchen. The gruff family matriarch runs
being restored and turned into rural retreats. the Elpida taverna on the beach and is well
knows for her traditional cooking.
LENDAS ΛΈΝΤΑΣ Studios Gaitani (%2892 0953 41; www.studios-
pop 78 gaitani.gr; studio €30-50; a) It doesn’t get more
The major appeal of the small beach settle- beachfront than this. These modern studios
ment at Lendas is its remoteness and laid-back are a few steps down to the sand. They have
feel. Reached via a long and winding road with kitchenettes, TV and fridge, and the larger
a dramatic last few kilometres descending to ones can fit up to four.
the village, Lendas clings to the cliff over the oEl Greco (%2892 095 322; www.lentas-el
beach and has a pleasant view over the Libyan greco.com; specials €4.50-9) This friendly taverna run
Sea. The narrow pebbly beaches are pleasant by three brothers has an excellent selection of
enough, but there are some better beaches to mayirefta and traditional Greek and interna-
explore nearby and some stunning rock for- tional dishes in a garden setting overlooking
mations. Lendas attracts mostly independent the sea. There are decent sea-view rooms with
travellers, including regulars who have been air-con behind the taverna and spacious stu-
coming for 20 years. It retains an appealing dios across the road (€30 to €40).
intimacy, plus a peacefulness that comes from Also recommended is the Akti (%2892 095 206;
not having any passing traffic. There is a lively mains €6-10) taverna next door, for good quality
beach scene, with a couple of beach bars. food and a decent selection of wines.
Within walking distance there is an ar- Across the way in Dytikos (see left), Villa
chaeological site and the Diskos (or Dytikos) Tsapakis (% 2892 095 378; www.villa-tsapakis.gr;
naturist beach where old hippies from Matala d/studio €25/30-35; a) is a friendly hotel with
IRAKLIO

camp on the beach. well-appointed, good-value rooms around

central courtyard.
Orientation & Information
As you enter the village, a left fork takes you to Getting There & Away
the eastern car park, while the right fork goes There’s a daily bus from Iraklio (€7.10,
to the main ‘square’. The bus stops outside the 2½ hours).
eastern car park. Lendas has only a couple of
mini-markets for essential supplies and an KASTRI & KERATOKAMBOS
Internet café (%2829 095 206; per hr €3) on the main ΚΑΣΤΡΊ & ΚΕΡΑΤΌΚΑΜΠΟΣ
square. Make sure you have plenty of petrol as pop 316
you are a long way from the nearest supply. At the twin mini-resorts and now contiguous
To get to Dytikos beach follow the main villages of Kastri and Keratokambos, 13km
road west for 1km or the path alongside the downhill, there’s a pleasant tree-lined beach
coastal cliffs. and a number of eating and sleeping choices.
The tranquillity of this tiny resort is its chief
Sights asset. Many Germans have moved in and
The archaeological site of Lebena is right out- bought property here. If you like peace and
side the village. Lebena was a health spa that quiet and have a few books to read, this is your
the Romans visited for its therapeutic springs. kind of place. There are no facilities other than
Only two granite columns remain of a temple a mini-market.
that dates from the 4th century BC. Next to
the temple was a treasury with a mosaic floor Sleeping & Eating
that is still visible. Very little else is decipher- Filoxenia Apartments (%/fax 2895 051 371; studio
able and the springs have been closed since €25-30; a) These lovely two- to- three-person
the 1960s. studios, wrapped in a flower-filled garden, are
equipped with kitchenette, fridge and TV, and
Sleeping & Eating make for a very pleasant base. They are right
Bungalows Lendas (%28920 95221; s/d €22/25-40; a) across from the beach.
This quiet complex west of the main square Komis Studios (%2895 051 390; www.komisstudios.gr;
has great sea views from the balconies. The Keratokambos; apt incl breakfast €60-75; a) These classy
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N C OA S T • • H e r s o n i s o s & M a l i a 177

upmarket apartments are attractively decorated tedly, Hersonissos has the liveliest nightlife on
in rustic style, with iron beds and old TVs and the island, which is fine if you want to party all
movie posters on the walls. They are well out- night and crash on a crowded beach (or stay
fitted with telephone, TV, hairdryers and can cocooned in a resort). Or is this author just a
accommodate two to four people. snobbish killjoy?
The tavernas along the beach generally Malia, about 7km east, is Crete’s ‘wild-
offer very good value. Taverna Nikitas (%2895 est’ party resort and has become even more
051 477; mains €4-6) offers consistently high-qual- notorious (and irredeemable) since they
ity and delicious grills. The goat in red sauce cracked down on the hooligan element in
is highly recommended, as is the local sword- Faliraki (Rhodes), bringing the worst ele-
fish. Taverna Livyko (%2895 051 290; grills €5.50-7) ments of young British holidaymakers to
makes tasty grills from its own meat, along Crete. Crowded and noisy, Malia is full of
with fresh fish and Cretan specials such as pubs, bars, tacky eateries, and sunburnt top-
boiled goat and lamb with artichokes. The less Brits hooning around on quad bikes,
setting is delightful. Also recommended is making it seem like one big fun park (or
the cheery Morning Star Taverna decked out nightmare). The scale of overdevelopment is
in classic blue and white. confronting to the senses. Many hotels only
deal with tour operators, but the travel agents
Getting There & Away in town can usually recommend places they
There is no public transport available to Kastri have deals with.
and Keratokambos. The only noteworthy attraction in the area
is the excellent Lychnostatis Museum (%2897
023 660; www.lychnostatis.gr; admission €4.50; h9.30am-
NORTHEASTERN COAST 2pm Sun-Fri). Instead of selling out or building
a hotel on the family land right next to the

IRAKLIO
Ever since the national road along the north- beach, the Markakis family have commend-
ern coast opened in 1972, the coast between ably created this unique open-air museum
Iraklio and Malia has seen a frenzy of unbri- dedicated to Cretan rural life. There are dis-
dled development, particularly on the seaside plays about all aspects of traditional rural life
towns of Hersonisos and Malia. There’s not from weaving to raki-making, a Cretan herb
much here for individual travellers since the garden, as well as a small kafeneio. Instead of
hotels deal almost exclusively with package- inscriptions there are clever mandinades (tra-
tour operators who block-book hotel rooms ditional rhyming songs), including the verses
months in advance. painted on the walls of the mill dedicated to
The village of Koutouloufari, above Herso- the owner’s wife.
nissos, is the most appealing place to stay in On the other side of the highway about 7km
this area. The Minoan palace at Malia is the south of Hersonisos is the 18-hole Crete Golf
only significant site of cultural interest, and Club (%2897 026 000; www.crete-golf.gr; 18 holes €67).
there is an important aquarium in Gournes. It’s a tough desert-style course on the hills
Amid the low-brow establishments, there that’s definitely not for hackers. It’s cheaper
are several high-end resorts and Crete’s only to play at twilight (€42).
world-class 18-hole golf course. There are buses to Hersonisos and Malia
from Iraklio every 30 minutes (€3.50, 45
HERSONISOS & MALIA minutes).
ΧΕΡΣΌΝΗΣΟΣ/ΜΑΛΙΑ
The northern resorts of Hersonisos and Malia KOUTOULOUFARI ΚΟΥΤΟΥΛΟΥΦΑΡΗ
have seen better days. Hersonissos, 27km east pop 538
of Iraklio, began its days as a small fishing Uphill from the madness, past the old villages
village on a hill, but these days the resort that of Hersonisos and Piskopiniana, is the more
grew along the long sandy beach is a brash, appealing village of Koutouloufari, which al-
expansive mecca of cheap package tourism, though touristy retains some semblance of
with a long coastal strip of neon-lit restaurants charm. The main road is closed off at night,
and look-alike hotels. While there are a few creating a festive atmosphere. It’s a safe dis-
big and high-end resort hotels in the area, the tance from the sprawling resort town below
towns themselves holds little appeal. Admit- but close enough to check it out.
 178 N O R T H E A S T E R N C OA S T • • Pa l a c e o f M a l i a lonelyplanet.com

Sleeping & Eating recommends their specialty lamb in rose wine

Villa Iokasti (%2897 022 607; www.iokasti.gr; apt €70-80; with bay leaves, or anything from the spit or
as) One- and two-bedroom apartments oven, which are fired up every night.
in an attractive garden setting off the main Fabrica (%2897 023 981; crepes €2.50-7.50) In the
drag towards the end of the village. It has a evening, head to this café-bar with a great
well-regarded taverna and café with pleasant rooftop terrace with views below to Herson-
sea views. isos. It’s in an old stone building to the right
Elen Mari Apartments (%2897 025 525; Koutou- past Sergiani. Take the turn off to the right as
loufari; apt €40;a) The fully equipped studios soon as you get off the Hersonisos turn-off.
are neat and well maintained and some have
excellent views over Hersonisos. PALACE OF MALIA ΑΝΆΚΤΟΡΑ
Emmanuel Taverna (%2897 021 022; Plateia Elefth- ΜΑΛΊΩΝ
eriou Venizelou, specials €10) Managed by a Greek- The Palace of Malia (%2897 031 597; admission €4;
Australian family, this homely taverna special- h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), 3km east of Malia, was
ises in spit-roasted meats and dishes cooked built at about the same time as the two other
in the wood oven out the front. The owner great Minoan palaces at Phaestos and Knos-

PALACE OF MALIA 0 50 m

Altar Pit.......................................1 C3 Lustral Basin...............................12 B2

Anteroom.....................................2 B2 Magazines..................................13 B3
Anteroom....................................3 C2 Main Entrance............................14 B4
Archives.......................................4 B2 North Entrance...........................15 C1
East Magazines............................5 C3 North Magazines.......................16 C2
Grain Silos....................................6 B3 Oblique Building........................17 C2
IRAKLIO

Grand Staircase............................7 C3 Pillar Corridor.............................18 B3

Grand Staircase............................8 C3 Pillar Crypt.................................19 B3
Hypostyle Hall..............................9 C2 Room of the Panther..................20 C2
15
Kernos Stone..............................10 B3 Royal Apartments.......................21 B2
Loggia........................................11 C3
16

North
Court

2 17
21
12

West
Court 4 3
9
20

11
7
13
19 Central
Court

1 5
18

6 10

14
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N C OA S T • • Pa l a c e o f M a l i a 179

MASS TOURISM
While some people clearly enjoy the scene at Hersonisos and Malia, most travellers wanting to
see Crete will have the same first instinct as they approach the resorts – get out fast. The local
population itself has retreated to the villages up the hill behind the main road and left the lower
beachfront area to wallow in sleazy commercialism. Everything is designed for tourist consump-
tion and mostly aimed at young party animals.
Both resorts chase bargain-hunting package tourists but Hersonisos has a few luxury hotels
on the outskirts. The crowds are generally young in both towns, but in Malia you’ll feel decrepit
if you’re over 22. Consuming copious quantities of alcohol is the main game. In Hersonisos you
drink to get drunk, dance and wake up with a stranger, while at Malia you drink to get drunk,
fall down and wake up on the pavement. If that sounds good to you, you know where to go.
But try to visit Crete one day.

sos. The first palace was built here around to this is the Grand Staircase, which might have
1900 BC and rebuilt after the earthquake of led to a shrine. To the north is the Pillar Cor-
1700 BC. What you see is the remains of the ridor with interconnecting rooms and next to
newer palace where many exquisite artefacts it is the Pillar Crypt with the Minoan double-
from Minoan society were found. Excavation axe symbol engraved up on the pillars. The
began in 1915 by Greek archaeologists and is impressive Central Court is 48m long and 22m
being continued by French archaeologists. wide and contains remains of the Minoan
Because the ground plan has been well pre- columns. Notice the covered altar pit in the
served, it is an easy site to comprehend. The centre of the courtyard.
exhibition hall has reconstructions of the site At the northern end of the western side

IRAKLIO
and interesting photos, including aerial shots. of the court is the Loggia, which was prob-
There is a shady spot to rest and take in the ably used for ceremonial purposes. Next
site and a café. The beach nearby (about 300m to the Loggia is the Room of the Panther in
on the right) is one of the best swimming which a 17th-century-BC stone axe shaped
spots in the area. like a panther was found. Northwest are
the Royal Apartments with a Lustral Basin. At
Exploring the Site the north end of the central court is the
Access to the ruins is from the West Court. Hypostyle Hall, with benches on the side in-
Head south through the Magazines and at dicating that it may have served as a kind
the extreme southern end you’ll come to the of council chamber. Other rooms include
eight circular pits which archaeologists think the archives room in which tablets containing
were grain silos. To the east of the pits is the Linear A script were found. The covered
main entrance to the palace, which leads to area off the central court are the East Maga-
the southern end of the Central Court. Moving zines. On your way out through the north
northeast you’ll come to the Kernos Stone, a entrance take note of the giant pithoi in the
disk with 24 holes around its edge. Archae- North Court.
ologists have yet to ascertain its function, but Any bus going to or from Iraklio along the
it probably had a religious purpose. Adjacent north coast can drop you at the site.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
180

Lasithi Λασιθι
Crete’s easternmost prefecture may receive far fewer visitors than the rest of the island,
but the exclusive resorts around Elounda and Agios Nikolaos are the stronghold of Crete’s
high-end tourism. Elounda has become synonymous with luxury hotels – among them one
of the world’s top resorts – while the capital, Agios Nikolaos, is the region’s contribution
to the party scene.

The rest of the prefecture, however, is largely refreshingly undeveloped compared with
the rest of Crete, mostly due to the isolated locations, winding access roads and lack of
international charter flights.

At the far eastern end of the north coast is the pleasant town of Sitia, the centre of the
region’s olive oil industry. The famous palm-lined beach of Vai is in the far east, near one
of the island’s historic monasteries.

The fertile region of the Lasithi Plateau provides excellent cycling opportunities through
quiet rural villages to the Dikteon Cave, where legend has it that Zeus was born and hidden
from his murderous father. The hinterland has many traditional villages, and lonely plateaus
and mountain ranges to explore.

The southern coast extends from the seaside village of Myrtos in the west to the com-
mercial centre of Ierapetra, and beyond to the rugged coast and largely untouched beaches
of Xerokambos.

In the far east, Zakros combines some of the best experiences of Crete – a walk through a
beautiful gorge to the evocative ruins of a Minoan Palace, just 200m from an underpopulated
beach with a few good tavernas.
LASITHI

Lasithi has its share of sleepy fishing villages, such as Mohlos in the north and Plaka to
the east, and Spinalonga Island continues to intrigue visitors.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Cycling around the Lasithi Plateau (p191)

Spinalonga Moni
„ Wandering among the fascinating ruins on Island Toplou Vai
Spinalonga Island (p190)
Lasithi
„ Exploring the Minoan palace near the beach Plateau
Kato
at Kato Zakros (p199) Zakros

„ Relaxing on Vai (p197), Crete’s only palm-

lined beach
„ Visiting the Moni Toplou (monastery) (p196)
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H C OA S T • • Agi o s N i k o l a o s 181

When the Venetians bought Crete in the

NORTH COAST 13th century, the Castel Mirabello was built
on a hill overlooking the sea and a settle-
ment arose below. The castle was damaged
AGIOS NIKOLAOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΝΙΚΟΛΑΟΣ in the earthquake of 1303 and was burned
pop 11,286 by pirates in 1537, before being rebuilt ac-
Lasithi’s capital, Agios Nikolaos (ah-yee-os cording to plans by the military architect
nih-ko-laos) may lack the historic character Sammicheli. When the Venetians were forced
of Crete’s other major towns but its natu- to abandon the castle to the Turks in 1645
ral advantage is a striking position on a hill they blew it up, leaving it in ruins. There’s
overlooking Mirabello Bay, with a small no trace of the Venetian occupation now ex-
picturesque lake connected to the sea and a cept the name they gave to the surrounding
pleasant harbour. gulf – Mirabello (‘beautiful view’).
In the early 1960s the former fishing village The town was resettled in the mid-19th
became a chic hideaway for the jet set and the century by fleeing rebels from Sfakia and was
likes of Jules Dassin and Walt Disney, but by later named capital of the Lasithi region.
the end of the decade package tourists were
arriving in force and it became an overdevel- Orientation
oped tourist town. The bus station (%28410 22234) has been rather
After a slump in recent years, ‘Agios’ ap- inconveniently relocated to the northwestern
pears to have bounced back and found a dif- side of town, about 800m from central Plateia
ferent rhythm. It’s become a town for locals Venizelou. The de-facto town centre is around
as much as tourists. It still draws people Voulismeni Lake. Most banks, travel agencies
from the resorts that stretch all the way to and shops are on Koundourou and paral-
Elounda, especially at night, when the cafés lel pedestrian street 28 Oktovriou. The main
and restaurants around the lake and port roads have a one-way traffic system, so if you
light up and the ambience turns more vi- are driving follow the signs to the port area or
brant and cosmopolitan. While it’s not the one of the car parks near the harbour.
party town it once was, it has a lively night-
life. Agios Nikolaos remains the epicentre of Information
Crete’s luxury resort industry, but also at- Anna Karteri Bookshop (%28410 22272;
tracts a mixed and relatively subdued older Koundourou 5) Well stocked with maps, guide books and
crowd and families. literature in English and other languages.
While there is superficially little to attract General Hospital (%28410 66000; Knossou 3) On the
the independent traveller, there is reasonable west side of town.
accommodation, prices are not too horren- Municipal Tourist Office (%28410 22357; www
dous and there are enough activities to cater .agiosnikolaos.gr; h8am-9.30pm Apr-Nov) Right by the
LASITHI

for all tastes. bridge; has helpful information and maps, changes money
It was the first town in Crete to install and assists with accommodation.
free wi-fi in the harbour area and the cen- National Bank of Greece (Nikolaou Plastira) Has a
tre of town. 24-hour exchange machine.
Peripou Café (%28410 24876; 28 Oktovriou 13; per hr
€4; h9am-2am) Has computers and wi-fi.
History PK’s Internet (%28410 28004; Akti Koundourou 1; per
Agios Nikolaos emerged as a port for the hr €2; h9am-2am) Has a full printing, burning, Skype
city-state of Lato (p187) in the early Hellenic (phone calls via internet) and video-cams set-up.
years, when it was known as Lato-by-Ka- Post Office (%28410 22062; 28 Oktovriou 9;
mara. The harbour assumed importance in h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri)
the Greco-Roman period after the Romans Tourist Police (%28410 91408; Erythrou Stavrou 47;
put an end to the piracy that had plagued h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri)
the northern coast.
The town continued to flourish in the Sights
early Christian years and, in the 8th or 9th It is worth the hike up to the Archaeological
century, the small Byzantine Church of Agio Museum (%28410 24943; Paleologou Konstantinou 74;
Nikolaos was built. admission €4; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; w), which has
 LASITHI
0 10 km
LASITHI REGION 0 6 miles
Paximada To Kasos; Karpathos;
To Piraeus; Halki; Rhodes
Santorini;
Milos SEA OF CRETE Dragonada
Cape Agios Cape
Ioannis Sideros
Gianysada
Milatos
Hersonisos
Sisi Plaka Elasa
Palace Spinalonga Island
Malia of Malia Milatos
Cave Kolokytha Itanos
Peninsula
Vai
To Iraklio (32km);
Rethymno (103km); Elounda Moni
Hania (162km) Toplou
Neapoli Fourni Olous
Kouremenos
Beach
Bay of Sitia Hiona
182 N O R T H C OA S T • • L a s i t h i R e g i o n

Palekastro Beach
Mirabello
Agia Fotia Roussolakkos
Skopi Petras
Tzermiado Agios Nikolaos Mohlos
Lasithi Langada
Plateau Ancient Lato Hohlakies Hohlakies Gorge
Dikteon Maronia Mitato
Cave Psyhro Katharo Azokeramos
Agios Kritsa Mt Tragistalos
Plateau
Georgios Mt Orno Katsidoni (515m)
Kroustas (1238m)
Pahia LASITHI Kato Zakros
Praisos Zakros
Istron Ammos Kria
Mt Dikti Kalo Horio Kato Zakros
(2148m) Voila
IRAKLIO Gournia Handras
Selekano Moni Ziros
Forest Faneromenis Pefki
Males Kalamafka Ha Mt Thriptis
Selekano
Gorge (1476m)
Aspros Potamos
Xerokambos
Perivolakia Ambelos Beach
Kato Koutsouras Makrygialos Perivolakia
Ano Viannos Mythi Anatoli Bramiana Horio Gorge Mazidas Beach
Dam Moni Kapsa
Pefkos Koutsounari
Agias Fotias Goudouras
Amiras Fournou-Korifi;
Myrtos Pyrgos
Kastri/Keratokambos Ierapetra
Tertsa
Arvi

Koufonisi

LIBYAN SEA MEDITERRANEAN

Gaidouronisi SEA
(Hrysi)
lonelyplanet.com
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H C OA S T • • Agi o s N i k o l a o s 183

an extensive and well-displayed collection There is a children’s playground, swimming

from eastern Crete. While it has no major pool and mini golf at the municipal beach on
showpiece, it is probably the second most the south side of Agios Nikolaos.
significant Minoan collection and includes Three diving centres offer boat dives and
clay coffins, ceramic musical instruments PADI-certification courses.
and gold from the island of Mohlos. The Creta Underwater Centre (%28410 22406; www
chronological exhibits begin with Neolithic .cretaunderwatercenter.com) In the Mirabello Hotel.
finds from Mt Tragistalos, north of Kato Happy Divers (%28410 82546; www.cretashappydiv
Zakros, and early Minoan finds from Agia ers.gr) In front of the Coral Hotel.
Fotia, then finds from Malia and Mohlos. Pelagos (%28410 24376; www.divecrete.com) In the
The highlight is the odd-looking Goddess of Minos Beach Art Hotel.
Myrtos, a clay jug from 2500 BC found near
Myrtos. Another stand-out Minoan item is Tours
a stone ritual vessel in the shape of a shell, Travel agencies offer bus tours to Crete’s
found in a late Minoan shrine at Malia, which top attractions and the boats along the har-
features two Minoan demons and a goddess. bour advertise their various excursions. Boat
Noteworthy exhibits from the Hellenistic and trips to Spinalonga (€17) include a swim at
Roman periods include an athlete’s skull, Kolokytha.
with gold wreath and a coin in his mouth Minotours Hellas (%28410 23222; www.minotours
for safe passage to the underworld, and a .gr; 28 Oktovriou 6) organises guided coach tours
winged Eros figurine. of Phaestos, Gortys and Matala (€33), the Sa-
The folk museum (%28410 25093; Paleologou maria Gorge (€45), the Lasithi Plateau (€34),
Konstantinou 4; admission €3; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun), Knossos (€30) and other destinations.
next to the tourist office, has a small, well-
displayed collection of traditional handicrafts Festivals & Events
and costumes. In July and August Agios Nikolaos hosts the
The compact Iris Museum (%28410 25899; 28 Lato Cultural Festival, with concerts by local and
Oktovriou 21-23; admission €2; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri) has international musicians, folk dancing, man-
displays of dried herbs and the flora of Crete, dinades (rhyming couplets) contests, theatre
and also sells local essential oils. and art exhibitions. Ask at the tourist office
for details. Marine Week, during the last week of
Activities June in even-numbered years, has swimming,
The town beaches of Ammos and Kytrop- windsurfing and boat races.
latia Beach are smallish and can get rather
crowded. The sandy beach at Almyros, about Sleeping
1km south of town, is the best of the lot and BUDGET & MIDRANGE
tends to be quieter. It can be reached on foot Pension Mary (%28410 23760; Evans 13; s/d/tr €15/25/30;
LASITHI

via a coastal path starting at the end of the a) This is one of those friendly places where
road just past the stadium. There’s not much the owner lives downstairs and bonus home-
shade but you can hire umbrellas. Ammou- made sweets are almost guaranteed. The
dara Beach, 3km from town, is a little better rooms are basic but clean and most have pri-
and supports a fairly busy restaurant and vate bathrooms, fridges, balconies with some
accommodation scene. sea views and access to a communal kitchen.
You can venture further towards Sitia to The top room is cramped but has a private
the pleasant coves with long stretches of sandy terrace with barbecue. Breakfast is €5.
beach and turquoise waters at the signposted Pergola Hotel (%/fax 28410 28152; Sarolidi 20; d
Golden Beach (Voulisma Beach) and around with view €20-40; a) This family-run hotel has
Istron Bay. a homy feel. Rooms are comfortable and all
The wooden sailboat M/S Manolis (%6974 143 have fridges, TV and air-con. There is a pleas-
150) runs fishing trips that include a barbecue ant veranda under a pergola to relax or have
and swim at Kolokytha island, as well as pri- breakfast. Front rooms have balconies and
vate charters. sea views. The owners can pick you up from
Sailing trips and private charters around the bus station.
the Mirabello gulf are run by Zaharias (%69373 Mylos Pension (%28410 23783; Sarolidi 24; d €40;
74954; www.sailc rete.com). a) From the fake flowers on the bed to the
 184 N O R T H C OA S T • • Agi o s N i k o l a o s lonelyplanet.com

family photos and icons on the walls, this tourist ‘Greek’ food. Hit the back streets or
quaint pension is an extension of the friendly head further afield for the genuine article.
elderly owner’s home. The front rooms have
sensational views (try for room 2) and all have BUDGET & MIDRANGE
a fridge and TV. The sprightly Georgia swears oTaverna Itanos (%28410 25340; Kyprou 1; mains
by the hard mattresses. €4-9) This friendly taverna with beamed ceil-
Hotel Doxa (%28410 24214; www.doxahotelgr; ings and stucco walls is popular with locals
Idomeneos 7; s/d incl breakfast €55/65; a) The plant- wanting traditional home-style Cretan cook-
filled lobby sets a homy tone for this hotel, ing. You can pick from the trays of excellent
which has an attractive terrace for breakfast or mayirefta (casseroles and oven-baked dishes)
drinks. Pleasant and clean rooms are equipped out the back, such as goat with artichokes or
with fridges, hairdryers and satellite TVs and lamb fricassee.
some have views. It’s close to the marina and Sarri’s (%28410 28059; Kyprou 15; mains €6-8)
Ammos beach. Tucked away in the back streets, Sarri’s is
Lato Hotel (%28410 24581; www.lato-hotel.gr; a good spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner
Amoudi s/d €46/59; ais) If you have your on the shady garden terrace. Check the daily
own wheels, this friendly hotel at Ammoudi specials board.
beach is a good option. There’s a small pool Aouas Taverna (%28410 23231; Paleologou Konstan-
and it’s a 15-minute walk into town along tinou 44; mezedes €5.20-9.60) This family-run place
the waterfront. The same management runs on the road to the museum has a range of
the charming Karavostasi studios in a stone Cretan specialities such as herb pies and pick-
carob warehouse on an isolated cove about led bulbs, as well as tasty grills. The interior is
8km east. plain but the garden courtyard is refreshing
oDu Lac Hotel (%28410 22711; www.dula and the mezedes are good.
chotel.gr; 28 Oktovriou 17; s/d/studio €40/60/80; a) This Pamtomaca (%28410 82394; Paleologou 52; 7pm-mid-
refurbished hotel on the lake has standard night) This colourful Catalano-Mediterranean
rooms and spacious fully fitted-out studios. combo is another good budget option.
Both have stylish contemporary furnishings oGargadoros (%28410 22599; Gargodoros
and nice bathrooms. It’s in a great central Beach; mains €6-14) This stylish restaurant opposite
location, with lovely views over the lake. a relatively quiet beach on the way to Almyros
is a recent and promising addition to Agios
TOP END Nikolaos’ dining scene. It’s light and cheery
Palazzo (%28410 25080; www.palazzo-apartments.gr; apt with colourful chairs and tables and a relaxed
€90-110; ai) Opposite Kytroplatia Beach, feel. The food is well executed, with modern
these classy apartments sleeping up to four takes on traditional dishes and emphasis on
are the closest thing to a boutique hotel in Greek and Mediterranean flavours. It’s a long-
town. The 10 charming, individually deco- ish walk from town along the beach front
LASITHI

rated apartments have mosaic-tiled floors, (there’s a path).

marble bathrooms and lovely balconies with Barko (%28410 24610; Kytroplatia Beach; mains €8.50-
views (in the front rooms). There’s free email 13.80) This place has gone upmarket since
downstairs. moving to flashier premises opposite the
Minos Beach Art Hotel (%28410 22345; www.bluegr beach. There are still excellent Cretan-style
.com; r from €180; as) This classy resort in a dishes but the menu includes more crea-
superb location just out of town is a veritable tive Mediterranean-style cuisine such as a
art gallery, with sculptures from leading Greek light risotto with pumpkin and anthotyro
and foreign artists adorning the grounds right (a soft whey cheese). There’s a decent wine
down to the beach. Crete’s first luxury resort list, too.
continues to reinvent itself, but its low-rise
design and understated style maintains its TOP END
position as one of the island’s best hotels. The Migomis (%28410 24353; Nikolaou Plastira 20; mains €14-
sign on the hotel says Minos Beach Hotel. 20) Overlooking Voulismeni Lake from up
high, Migomis is one of the classic and pricier
Eating lakeside eating places. The cuisine is Greek/
The well-positioned lakeside restaurants tend international and the views and ambience
to push inevitably bland and often overpriced are impressive, complete with the baby grand
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H C OA S T • • Agi o s N i k o l a o s 185

0 200 m
AGIOS NIKOLAOS 0 0.1 miles
Ammoudi
La Beach
sit
h iou To Pelagos/Minos Beach (400m);
Lato Hotel (550m)
Creta Underwater Centre (1km); 0 100 m Port
Ak Havania (2km); Elounda (12km)
To Neapolis (17km); Eryth ti 35
rou Ko Voulismeni 5 u
Iraklio (67km) 8 Sta u nd rio
ou Lake 13 ov

tis
ro kt

vr
Dik
u O

ou
34
30 16 8

u
2
38

tio
ou
ur

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25
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M
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os ta s
s
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s
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See Enlargement 20
en
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LASITHI

To Almyros Beach (1.5km);

Ammoudara Beach (3km);
Golden Beach (10km); Istron (11km);
Kritsa (12km); Gournia (19km);
Ierapetra (36km); Sitia (70km)

To Gargadoros To Municipal Beach via path (100m);

DRINKING
(400m) Almyros Beach via path (600m) Alexander's......................................28 C3
Sorrento...........................................29 C3
INFORMATION
Anna Karteri Bookshop......................1 C1 SLEEPING ENTERTAINMENT
General Hospital.................................2 A1 Hotel Doxa.......................................15 B4 Cafe du Lac......................................30 C1
Municipal Tourist Office.....................3 C3 Hotel Du Lac....................................16 D1 Rex Cinema......................................31 C4
National Bank of Greece.....................4 C2 Mylos Pension..................................17 D3 Yanni's Rock Bar.............................. 32 D3
Anapatseos

Peripou Café......................................5 D1 Palazzo............................................18 D3

PK's Internet......................................6 D3 Pension Mary...................................19 D3 SHOPPING
Post Office.........................................7 C1 Pergola Hotel...................................20 D3 Anemos...........................................33 C2
Tourist Police......................................8 B1 Kerazoza..........................................34 D1
EATING Marieli..............................................35 D1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aouas Taverna.................................21 C2
Archaeological Museum.....................9 B2 Barko...............................................22 D3 TRANSPORT
Children's Playground......................10 C3 Migomis...........................................23 B3 Boats to Spinalonga..........................36 C3
Folk Museum...................................11 C3 Pamtomaca......................................24 B2 Bus Station.......................................37 A2
Happy Divers....................................12 B1 Pelagos............................................25 C3 Club Cars.........................................38 D1
Iris Museum.....................................13 D1 Sarri's...............................................26 C4 LANE Lines.......................................39 D1
Minotours Hellas..............................14 C1 Taverna Itanos................................. 27 C4 Manolis Bikes...................................40 D1
 186 N O R T H C OA S T • • K r i t s a lonelyplanet.com

piano. The fancy menu includes ostrich, and BUS

has Asian influences.. Buses leave from Agios Nikolaos’ bus station
Pelagos (%28410 25737; Katehaki 10; appetisers €4- (%28410 22234; www.crete-buses.gr) for Elounda
8.50) For an excellent selection of fresh fish (€1.30, 16 daily, 20 minutes), Ierapetra (€3.30,
and seafood, this place is generally consid- eight daily, 1 hour), Iraklio (€6.20, half-hourly,
ered the best (and priciest) restaurant in 1½ hours), Kritsa (€1.30, 10 daily, 15 minutes)
Agios Nikolaos. The mezedes are excellent. Lasithi Plateau (€3.50, two daily, 3 hours) and
It’s in a beautifully restored house with an Sitia (€5.90, seven daily, 1½ hours).
ambient garden.
Getting Around
Drinking & Entertainment Car- and motorcycle-hire outlets can be found
The waterfront cafés lining Akti Koundourou on 28 Oktovriou and the northern waterfront.
come alive from late afternoon and later Club Cars (%28410 25868; www.clubcars.net; 28 Oktovriou
morph into lively bars. The dance clubs are 30) has cars for hire from €32 per day.
in ‘little Soho’ on 25 Martiou. Yanni’s Rock Manolis Bikes (%28410 24940; 25 Martiou 12) has a
Bar (Akti Koundourou 3) is a classic and huge range of scooters, motorcycles and quad
popular haunt where not even the décor has bikes. Prices begin at €20 a day for a scooter
changed in years. and go up to €50 a day for a Yamaha XT 660.
Tourists tend to congregate on the oppo- It also has top-of-the-range mountain bikes
site side of the port, particularly the popular (from €10).
Sorrento bar and around the corner at the
flashing lights of Alexanders, which has added KRITSA ΚΡΙΤΣΑ
more recent tunes to their ’60s to ’80s selec- pop 1626
tion. The pretty mountain village of Kritsa (krit-
For eclectic listening and soothing views sah), perched 600m up the mountainside
over Voulismeni Lake try Café du Lac (%28410 11km from Agios Nikolaos, is renowned for
26837; 28 Oktovriou 17). its strong tradition of needlework and weav-
Rex Cinema (%28410 83681; M Sfakianaki 35) ing. It appears to have morphed into a tour-
screens the latest releases, as well as art-house ist attraction, with weaving and embroidery
movies on Thursdays. draped on every available surface. Busloads of
tourists swarm through the streets all summer
Shopping and the villagers are eager to cater to these
There are shops selling all the basics and sou- customers. It creates a colourful atmosphere,
venirs in town. but not much of the stuff on sale these days
Anemos (%28410 23528; Koundourou 12) Has is handmade or necessarily authentic. It’s still
unique pieces by jewellers from around possible to find the traditional geometric de-
Greece. signs of Crete and the odd finely crocheted
LASITHI

Kerazoza (%28410 22562; Koundourou 42) Hand- blanket or tablecloth, but they are becoming
made masks, marionettes and figurines de- a rarity (and are – justifiably – not cheap, due
rived from ancient Greek theatre, along with to the labour-intensive work involved and the
some good-quality sculptures, ceramics and few women still willing and able to do it).
jewellery by local artisans. Apart from the needlework, Olive Wood
Marieli (%28410 28813; 28 Octovriou 33) A cute lit- (%28410 51585) is one of the few shops in
tle gift store with a range of Greek handicrafts town that has handmade local crafts. You
and jewellery. can order a pair of Cretan boots at Detorakis
(%28410 51349), who has been making them
Getting There & Away for 50 years.
BOAT Most years, Kritsa stages a massive trad-
LANE Lines (%28410 89150; www.lane.gr) has ferries itional wedding (€20 including food and drink)
twice per week from Agios Nikolaos to Piraeus in August, as long as one lucky couple agrees
(deck/cabin €34/€46, 14 hours), via Santorini to make their nuptials a totally public affair.
(€20.20, five hours) and Milos (€20.60, nine The event includes a feast, traditional customs
hours). There is also a service from Piraeus via and dancing, and attracts quite a crowd. It
Milos to Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, Kasos, Karpa- usually takes place the first Sunday after the
thos, Halki and Rhodes. 15 August Assumption Day holiday.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H C OA S T • • A r o u n d K r i t s a 187

One narrow street runs through Kritsa, of the south aisle recounts the life of the Vir-
but there are car parks at the top and bot- gin; the north aisle is an elaborately worked-
tom of the village. The post office is near the out fresco of the Second Coming. Nearby is
lower car park. There is an ATM halfway up an enticing depiction of Paradise next to the
the hill. Virgin and the Patriarchs – Abraham, Isaac
and Jacob. Judgement Day is portrayed on the
Sleeping & Eating west end, with the Archangel Michael trum-
Rooms Argyro (%28410 51174; www.argyrorentrooms peting the Second Coming.
.gr; s €20, d €30-35; a) A friendly place with 12 From Kritsa it is a 16km scenic climb up
immaculate and basic rooms with balconies to the spectacular Katharo Plateau, which is
and a little shaded restaurant downstairs for cultivated by people from Kritsa and virtu-
breakfast and light meals. It’s on your left as ally inhabited only by sheep and goats – and
you enter the village. even then only in summer. On the road to
Olive Press (%28410 51296; www.olivepresscenterall Katharo you pass by the village of Kroustas,
.com; d/apt €55/70) This Belgian-run B&B is in where locals go for very traditional local cui-
a lovingly restored stone olive press in the sine. The popular O Kroustas (%28410 51362) has
upper part of the village, near Agios Yior- excellent Cretan food, including a superb (al-
gos church. One apartment incorporates the beit high-calorie) lazania (twisted handmade
original olive press. pasta also called stroufikta) cooked in stock
Platanos (%28410 51230; mains €4.80-6.50) This with anthotyro and excellent rusks made in
taverna/kafeneio retains a traditional feel and the wood oven.
has a lovely setting under a giant plane tree
and vine canopy. There’s a standard menu ANCIENT LATO ΛΑΤΏ
of grills and mayirefta and it’s well regarded The ancient city of Lato (admission €2; h8.30am-
by locals. 3pm Tue-Sun), 4km north of Kritsa, is one of
To Plai (%28410 51196; mains €4.40-10) On the Crete’s few non-Minoan ancient sites. Lato
road to Katharo just past the car park, this (la-to) was founded in the 7th century BC by
simple taverna has authentic Cretan cooking the Dorians and at its height was one of the
such as boiled goat or mutton, goat in wine, most powerful cities on Crete, until it was
and wild greens including stamnagathi when destroyed in 200 BC. It sprawls over the slopes
in season. There are tables on the balcony with of two acropolises in a lonely mountain set-
views over the valley. ting, commanding stunning views down to
Saridakis Kafeneio (%28410 51577) This origi- the Bay of Mirabello.
nal old-style kafeneio, serving only Greek cof- The city’s name is derived from the god-
fee (€1.50) and a few homemade sweets, is a dess Leto whose union with Zeus produced
rarity these days. Artemis and Apollo, both of whom were wor-
shipped here.
LASITHI

Getting There & Away The site is barely signposted so can be a bit
There are hourly buses from Agios Nikolaos of a guessing game.
to Kritsa (€1.30, 15 minutes). The city gate is the entrance to the site
and leads to a long, stepped street. The wall
AROUND KRITSA on the left contains two towers, which were
The tiny triple-aisled Church of Panagia Kera also residences. Follow the street to reach
(%28410 51806; admission €3; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, the agora, built around the 4th century BC,
8.30am-2pm Sat), 1km before Kritsa, contains which contained a cistern and a small rectan-
the most outstanding Byzantine frescoes on gular sanctuary. Excavations of the temple
Crete. The oldest part of the church is the have revealed a number of 6th- century BC
13th-century central nave, but most of the figurines. The circle of stones behind the
frescoes date from the early to mid-14th cen- cistern was a threshing floor. The western
tury. The dome and nave are decorated with side of the agora contains a stoa with stone
four gospel scenes: the Presentation, the Bap- benches. There are remains of a pebble mo-
tism, the Raising of Lazarus and the Entry into saic nearby. A terrace above the southeast
Jerusalem. On the west wall are a portrayal of corner of the agora contains the remains of
the Crucifixion and grimly realistic depictions a rectangular temple, probably built in the late
of the Punishment of the Damned. The vault 4th or early 3rd century BC. Between the
 188 N O R T H C OA S T • • E l o u n d a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

two towers on the northern end of the agora Municipal Tourist Office (%28410 42464; h8am-
there are steps leading to the prytaneion, the 11pm Jun-Oct) Helps with accommodation and informa-
administrative centre of the city-state. The tion, and changes money.
centre of the prytaneion contained a hearth Olous Travel (%28410 41324) Handles air and boat
with a fire that burned day and night. On the tickets and finds accommodation.
east side of the prytaneion is a colonnaded
court. Below the prytaneion is a semicircu- Tours & Activities
lar theatre that could seat about 350 people Boats from Elounda offer trips to Spinalonga
next to an exedra (stage), which has a bench Island, swimming and fishing trips, and four-
around the walls. hour cruises that include Spinalonga, swim-
There are no buses to Lato. The road to ming and a visit to the sunken city of Olous
the site is signposted to the right on the ap- (opposite).
proach to Kritsa. It’s a pleasant 30-minute The area around Elounda offers excellent
walk through olive groves. diving. Try the PADI Blue Dolphin Diving Centre
(%28410 41802; www.dive-bluedolphin.com; dive €39) at
ELOUNDA ΕΛΟΥΝΤΑ the Grecotel Elounda Village hotel.
pop 1561
There are magnificent mountain and sea Sleeping
views along the 11km road north from Agios If you’re not lucky enough to be staying at
Nikolaos to Elounda (el-oon-da). A cluster one of the swanky resorts, it almost defeats
of luxury resorts occupy the lovely coves the purpose of hanging out in Elounda. Many
along the coast. The first elite hotel was built hotels are fully booked by tour operators.
here in the mid-1960s, quickly establishing
Elounda as the playground for Greece’s glit- BUDGET & MIDRANGE
terati and high flyers – soon after, the world’s Delfinia Studios & Apartments (%28410 41641; www
rich and famous followed suit. Elounda boasts .pediaditis.gr; studio/apt €30-40; as) The pleasant
some of the most exclusive resorts in Greece, rooms here have balconies overlooking the
which monopolise most of the nice beaches sea and there is a range of options for larger
in the area. groups and families. Run by the same family
Past the resorts, the once-quiet fishing as the bookshop on the main road, who also
village of Elounda bristles with tourists in run the Milos apartments nearby.
summer, although it is calmer than its larger Hotel Aristea (%28410 41300; www.aristeahotel
neighbour Agios Nikolaos. Busloads of day- .com; s/d/tr incl breakfast €30/45/55; a) In the town
trippers rock up on their way to Spinalonga centre is this uninspiring but decent and clean
Island. Elounda’s attractive harbour is some- budget option. Most rooms at least have a sea
what spoilt by the huge ugly neon signs on view, double-glazed windows, TV, fridge and
many restaurants and central car park. The a hairdryer.
LASITHI

pleasant but unremarkable sandy town beach, Corali Studios (%/fax 28410 41712; www.coralistu
to the north of the port, can get very crowded. dios.com; studio €60-70; a) On the northern side,
There’s another beach on the other side past these handy self-catering studios are set in
Alykes, the now largely submerged salt mines lush lawns with a shaded patio.
established by the Venetians. This sheltered Portobello Apartments (2-/4-bed apt €65-75; a)
lagoon-like stretch of water is formed by the Next door to Corali Studios and under the
Kolokytha ‘island’, which you can reach via a same management, these spacious apart-
narrow stone peninsula. ments are a good option for two or more
people.
Orientation & Information Elounda Island Villas (%28410 41274; www.eloun
The main square with a prominent clock daisland.gr; d from €70; 4-person apt €105; pa) A se-
tower and car park is next to the harbour. cluded option on Kolokytha island, reached
The bus stops nearby, where there are a couple along the narrow peninsula. The split-level
of ATMs and the post office. apartments are set amid a pleasant garden
Babel Internet Café (%28410 42336; Akti Vritomar- and decorated with traditional furnishings.
tidos) On the waterfront, north of the clock tower. Kitchens are well equipped, bathrooms func-
Eklektos (%28410 42086) Sells maps and new and tional and there is an attached tavern. It’s a
used English-language books. 20-minute walk into town.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H C OA S T • • K o l o k y t h a Pe n i n s u l a 189

TOP END Entertainment

Elounda’s resorts are the stuff most people There are several bars and clubs at Elounda,
only dream about. Elounda Beach (%28410 41412; but it’s no Agios Nikolaos.
www.eloundabeach.gr; r from €250; as), one of the Katafygio (%28410 42003) has tables along
world’s great luxury resorts, is the epitome of the water and is housed in a former carob-
luxury, attracting some elite clientele. You can processing plant. It has Cretan and Greek
upgrade all the way to the royal suites with nights and belly dancing.
a private indoor swimming pool, personal Alyggos Bar (%28410 41569), on the main street,
fitness trainer, butler and cook (for a mere is popular with tourists and has an impressive
€15,000 per night). display of soccer jumpers and matches on TV.
Babel (%28410 42336; Akti Vritomartidos) is another
Eating good place for a drink or you can get into the
Nikos (%28410 41439; fish per kg €35-40) While it Greek groove at Venue (%28410 41355) next to
lacks the ambience of the seafront eateries, Olous Travel.
no-frills Nikos on the main street is a good
choice for fish and lobster because it gener- Getting There & Around
ally catches its own. There are outdoor tables Boats go across to Spinalonga every half-hour
under a canopy across in the square. Service (adult/child return €10/5)
can be erratic but the food is very reasonably There are 13 buses daily from Agios
priced. Nikolaos to Elounda (€1.30, 20 minutes).
Megaro (%28419 42220; fish per kg up to €45; mains Cars, motorcycles and scooters can be hired
€4-8) This recently refurbished place on the at Elounda Travel (%28410 41800; www.eloundatravel
corner of the square is popular with locals .gr) in the town centre.
around the district. The owner fishes from his
own boat and the menu also includes Cretan KOLOKYTHA PENINSULA
specialities. ΧΕΡΣΟΝΗΣΟΣ ΚΟΛΟΚΥΘΑ
Paradosiako (%28410 42444; mains €5.50-8.50) Rec- Just before Elounda (coming from Agios
ommended for grilled and oven-baked meat Nikolaos), a sign points right to ancient Olous,
dishes. It’s opposite the playground. which was the port of Lato. The city stood
Ferryman (%28410 41230; local fish platter for 2 €44) on and around the narrow isthmus (now a
With a lovely setting on the waterfront, the causeway) that joined the southern end of
Ferryman claims its moment of fame from the Kolokytha Peninsula to the mainland.
being featured in the TV series Who Pays the Olous was a Minoan settlement that flour-
Ferryman. The food and service is excellent ished from 3000 to 900 BC. Around 200 BC
(they even clean the fish for you), though it it entered into a treaty with Rhodes as part
is on the pricey side. Its speciality is fish and of the island’s desire to control eastern Crete
lobster, but there’s a broader menu of Cretan and put an end to the piracy that was rav-
LASITHI

specialties aging the Aegean. Excavations indicate that

GOOD FOR THE SOUL

Elounda is home to some of Europe’s most luxurious spas and thalassotherapy centres, which –
as the name suggests – promote the therapeutic benefits of the sea with seawater pools and
hydrospas, marine algae body wraps and every imaginable sea-themed pampering and rejuve-
nation treatment.
The state-of-the-art Elounda Spa & Thalassotherapy Centre (%28410 65660; www.bluepalace.gr;
full-day treatments from €140), in the Blue Palace Resort just before Plaka, also incorporates Cretan
nutrients into unique treatments, including exfoliation with sugar and olive oil, a traditional olive
oil massage and hydromassage baths using Cretan herbs. There is even a treatment using raki –
not your traditional rakotherapy!
There are packages and discounts for non-guests if you can’t manage a stay at the resort for
the full treatment.
Another world class spa in Elounda is the new Six Senses Spa (%28410 68000; www.portoelounda
.com; signature treatment package €220) at the Porto Elounda Hotel.
 190 N O R T H C OA S T • • P l a k a lonelyplanet.com

Olous was an important trade centre with the SPINALONGA ISLAND

eastern islands and minted its own currency. ΝΗΣΟΣ ΣΠΙΝΑΛΟΓΚΑ
Little is known about the settlement during Spinalonga Island lies just north of the
the Greek, Roman and Byzantine eras, but it Kolokytha Peninsula and was strategically
appears that it was destroyed by the Saracens important from antiquity to the Venetian era.
in the 9th century. The island’s massive fortress (%28410 41773;
The isthmus sank as a result of the earth- admission €2; h10am-6pm) was built by the Vene-
quakes that have repeatedly devastated Crete. tians in 1579 to protect the bays of Elounda
In 1897 the occupying French army dug a canal and Mirabello. It was considered impregnable
across the isthmus connecting Spinalonga Bay and withstood Turkish sieges for longer than
to the open sea. Most of the ruins lie beneath any other Cretan stronghold, but finally sur-
the water, which makes it a popular place for rendered in 1715 some 40 years after the rest
snorkelling. The shallow water appears to be of Crete. The Turks used the island as a base
paradise for sea urchins and the area is known for smuggling. Following the reunion of Crete
for the many birds that nest there. An early with Greece, Spinalonga became a leper col-
Christian mosaic near the causeway was part ony, which closed in 1953, and the island has
of an early Christian basilica. been uninhabited ever since.
There is an excellent sandy beach 1km along Regular excursion boats visit Spinalonga
a narrow but graded dirt road on the eastern from Agios Nikolaos (€15) (see p183). Ferries
side of the peninsula. The beach is sheltered, can take you across from Elounda (€10) or
the water pristine and few people use it, other you could also take a cheaper boat from Plaka.
than visitors with small caiques (little boats). Boats from Agios Nikolaos pass the uninhab-
ited Bird Island and Kri-Kri Island, one of the
PLAKA ΠΛΆΚΑ last habitats of the kri-kri, Crete’s wild goat.
pop 38 Both are designated wildlife sanctuaries.
The small fishing village of Plaka, 5km north
of Elounda, used to supply the leper colony MILATOS ΜΥΛΑΤΟΣ
on Spinalonga. Today, Plaka has been some- Milatos, the north coast’s easternmost beach
what dwarfed by the giant Blue Palace Resort settlement, is refreshingly mellow after the
at the entrance to the village, but it’s still overdeveloped coastal strip east of Iraklio. Mi-
an attractive and quiet place, with a rea- latos beach is little more than a main square,
sonable stretch of pebble beach overlooking with the Church of Analipsis in the middle,
Spinalonga. In a pretty waterfront setting, a and a string of tavernas, dwellings and accom-
handful of fish tavernas are housed in row of modation lining the beach. The actual village
stone buildings. of Milatos is 2km up the hill.
Ask around at the boats at the port or There is little to see of Ancient Milatos, to
one of the tavernas and local fishermen can the east of the beach, but you can explore the
LASITHI

take you over to Spinalonga Island (€7). You series of caverns in the Milatos Cave, about 3km
can also go across by sea kayak with Driros east of the village (best to have a torch). More
Beach-based Spinalonga Windsurf (%69935 24738; than 2000 Cretans were holed up in the cave
www.spinalonga-windsurf.com; €15). for 15 days in 1823 but were massacred when
The popular waterfront Taverna Giorgos they surrendered. There is memorial chapel
(%28410 41355; Cretan specials €6.50-8) is run by inside the cave.
a local fisherman and his family, who will Panorama (%28410 81213; top fish per kg €45) on
dish up a decent fresh seafood meal as well the western end is run by a fishing family and
as Cretan specialities. uses mostly local organic vegetables. It also
Stella Mare Studios (%28410 41814; studio €50-60; has spacious studios in a complex behind the
a) has simple studios and apartments with taverna (€40).
homy touches such as lace curtains and tapes- At the other end of the beach To Meltemi
tries on the walls. They are set around a court- (%28410 81286; mains €5.50-8.50) is a friendly,
yard garden; some have balconies with sea family-run place with excellent local cuisine –
views and there are goats grazing across the try the hortopitakia (pies with greens).
road. Another worthwhile taverna in this area is
The Pefko (%28410 42510) kafeneio is a charm- Volosyros (%28410 71601; mains €6.50-8.50) which
ing place for a drink. has a wood oven and a lovely garden terrace
lonelyplanet.com L A S I T H I P L AT E AU • • Tze r m i a d o 191

out the back. It’s on the road to Milatos, in TZERMIADO ΤΖΕΡΜΙΆΔΟ

the upper village of Sisi. pop 762
Tzermiado (dzer-mee-ah-do) is a sleepy town
with dusty little streets lined with houses
LASITHI PLATEAU overgrown with vines and hanging plants.

ΟΡΟΠΕΔΙΟ ΛΑΣΙΘΙΟΥ It’s the largest and most important town on

the Lasithi Plateau and has a fair amount
of visitors from the tour buses going to the
The Lasithi Plateau, 900m above sea level, is Dikteon Cave. A number of shops sell rugs
a vast expanse of pear and apple orchards, and embroideries, although they’re not of a
almond trees and fields of crops. It would particularly high quality. Of better quality
have been a stunning sight when it was dotted are Lasithi’s superior potatoes, which are cel-
by some 20,000 metal windmills with white ebrated in a three-day festival at the end of
canvas sails built by the Venetians in the 17th August in Tzermiado.
century. There are less than 5000 still stand- There is only one main road running through
ing today and few are in service, most having town that takes you past the town square, with
been replaced by less-attractive mechanical a couple of ATMs and a post office.
pumps. South just outside Tzermiado is the Kronios
The plateau’s rich soil has been cultivated Cave (Trapeza), for which you need a torch (and
since Minoan times. The inaccessibility of the preferably a guide – they tend to hang out wait-
region made it a hotbed of insurrection during ing) to explore. From the signposted turnoff,
Venetian and Turkish rule. Following an up- you can drive to the end of the dirt path, from
rising in the 13th century, the Venetians drove where you go up about 150 steps to the cave.
out the inhabitants of Lasithi and destroyed North of Tzermiado, perched on a dramatic
their orchards. The plateau lay abandoned for rocky hill, is the Minoan settlement of Karfi, a
200 years, preserving a rich forest and biotope, crude refuge for Minoans fleeing the Dorians.
as a lack of drainage meant the plain flooded You can drive the bulk of the way and walk
each spring with melted snow. Food shortages for about 40 minutes up to the site. Otherwise
led the Venetians to cultivate the area and it takes about two hours to do the 6km climb.
build the irrigation trenches and wells that Take plenty of water. Follow the signs to the
still service the region. Timios Stavros church (where you need to
There are 20 villages dotted around the leave the car) to the well-marked path up to
periphery of the plateau. Tour buses regularly the ruins.
pass through the region, which relies heavily Argoulias (%28440 22754; www.argoulias.gr; d incl
on tourism but is essentially an agricultural breakfast €60-80) is a delightful small complex
area with traditional rural villages that return of 11 stone spacious apartments built into
to pastoral serenity when the tourists leave. the hillside in the abandoned part of the vil-
LASITHI

It is worth an overnight stay to get a sense lage, with panoramic views of the plateau. The
of rural Crete. rooms are well-equipped and traditionally
You can approach the plateau from several decorated, and breakfast is made from fresh
points, the main routes being from Iraklio via local produce.
the Kastelli road or Malia, or the commercial Some of the best Cretan cuisine around is
town of Neapoli, with other turn-offs near served at Kourites (%28440 22054; mains €7-8; www
Agios Nikolaos. .kourites.eu), including vegetarian delights such
The plateau is a popular bike route, and on as artichokes. Try some of the dishes cooked
any given day you will be assailed by squad- in the wood oven – the suckling pig with
rons of helmet-clad cyclists. Enterprising cycle baked potatoes is delicious. There are simple
tour operators in Iraklio and Agios Nikolaos room above the taverna with small balconies
ferry bikes and cyclists to the plateau but you (single/double including breakfast €25/35)
can also get bikes locally. and you can have free use of the bicycles.
From Iraklio there are daily buses to
Tzermiado (€3.50, two hours), Agios Geor- AGIOS GEORGIOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΓΕΏΡΓΙΟΣ
gios (€4.70, two hours) and Psyhro (€4.70, pop 541
2¼ hours). There are also buses to the villages Agios Georgios (agh-ios ye-or-gios) is a tiny
from Agios Nikolaos (p186). village on the southern side of the Lasithi
 192 N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • G o u r n i a lonelyplanet.com

Plateau and the most pleasant to stay in. If you €6) opposite the entrance to Dikteon Cave,
have your own bicycle, you can base yourself serving Cretan food and grills. He also or-
here and explore the plateau at your leisure. ganises regular hikes up to Mt Dikti, camp-
The village also boasts an excellent folklore ing out under the stars.
museum (%28440 31462; admission €3; h10am-4pm
Apr-Oct) housed in the original home be- DIKTEON CAVE ΔΊΚΤΑΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΡΟΝ
longing to the Katsapakis family. Exhib- Lasithi’s major sight is the Dikteon Cave (adult/
its are spread over five rooms and include child €4/2; h8am-6pm Jun-Oct, 8am-2.30pm Nov-May), just
some intriguing personal photos of writer outside the village of Psyhro. Here, according
Nikos Kazantzakis. to legend, Rhea hid the newborn Zeus from
You cannot miss the signs in the region Cronos, his offspring-gobbling father.
directing you to the massive Lasinthos Eco The cave, also known as the Psyhro Cave,
Park (%28440 89100; www.lasinthos.gr; admission €2.50; covers 2200 sq metres and features both
h9am-6pm), just past Agios Georgios. This stalactites and stalagmites. It was excavated
new complex, including the barn of a tav- in 1900 by the British archaeologist David
erna, craft displays and a massive souvenir Hogarth, who found numerous votives indi-
store, caters to tour buses. The workshops of cating it was a place of cult worship. These
traditional crafts are contrived and the ‘farm’ finds are housed in the Archaeological Mu-
is rather light on. seum (p149) in Iraklio.
On the northern side of the village, Hotel The cave began to be used for cult worship
Maria (%28440 31774; s/d €20-35) has spacious in the Middle Minoan period and continued,
rooms, nicely decorated with weaving and though less intensely, up to the 1st century
traditional furnishings (although larger AD. An altar for offerings and sacrifices was
people should note that the beds are very in the upper section. Stone tablets inscribed
narrow). Maria does the cooking at Taverna with Linear A script were found here, along
Rea (%28440 31209; mains €4.50-6.50) on the main with religious bronze and clay figurines.
street, which rustles up excellent grilled local The upper cave is large and generally
meats (her husband is the butcher) and devoid of stalactites or stalagmites. A steep
good-value Cretan staples. They also rent downward path brings you to the more in-
out studios above the taverna (€30). teresting lower cave. In the back on the left
is a smaller chamber where legend has it that
PSYHRO ΨΥΧΡΌ Zeus was born. There is a larger hall on the
pop 208 right, which has small stone basins filled with
Psyhro (psi-hro) is the closest village to the water that Zeus allegedly drank from in one
Dikteon Cave. It has one main street with a section and a spectacular stalagmite that came
few tavernas, and plenty of souvenir shops to be known as the Mantle of Zeus in the
selling ‘authentic’ rugs and mats of largely other. The entire cave is illuminated, although
LASITHI

non-Cretan origin. It is prettier than Tzermi- not particularly well, so watch your step.
ado and makes for a better rest stop. Buses It is a steep 15-minute (800m) walk up
to Psyhro drop you at the end of the town to the cave entrance. You can take the fairly
where it’s about a kilometre’s walk uphill to rough but shaded track on the right with
the cave (the bus may take you all the way if great views over the plateau or the unshaded
lots of passengers are going there). paved trail on the left of the car park next to
If you do need to stay the night, the the Halavro taverna. You can also let a don-
rather featureless Zeus Hotel (%28440 31284; s/d key do the hard work (€10 or €15 return).
€25/30) is near the start of the Dikteon Cave
road. You can find the owners at the Hala-
vro taverna near the cave entrance.
With its neat folksy interior and street-
NORTHEAST COAST
side tables, Stavros (%28440 31453; grills €5-8)
serves a good range of traditional home- GOURNIA ΓΟΥΡΝΙΑ
style Cretan dishes. Most of the meat and The important Late Minoan site of Gournia
produce is from the family farm. (%28410 24943; admission €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)
Former cave guardian Petros Zarvakis pronounced goor-nyah, lies just off the coast
has opened Petros Taverna (%28440 31600; grills road, 19km southeast of Agios Nikolaos.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • M o h l o s 193

The ruins, which date from 1550 to 1450 Mohlos attracts mainly French and Ger-
BC, are made up of a town overlooked by man independent travellers, while the tav-
a small palace. Gournia’s palace was far ernas enjoy a good reputation for fresh local
less ostentatious than the ones at Knossos fish and seafood and are packed with locals
and Phaestos as it was the residence of an on weekends.
overlord rather than a king. The town is a When we last visited, an ominous con-
network of streets and stairways flanked by struction frenzy nearby did not bode well for
houses with walls up to 2m high. Domestic, peaceful Mohlos.
agricultural and trade implements found on There’s a mini-market and a couple of
the site indicate that Gournia was a thriving gift shops. Barbarossa Tours (%28430 94723;
little community. [email protected]) can arrange rooms, ex-
South of the palace is a large rectangular cursions, boat and air tickets and car hire.
court, which was connected to a network of Yiannis Petrakis and his Belgian botanist
paved stone streets. South of the palace is a wife Ann Lebrun run nature walks and
large stone slab used for sacrificing bulls. The guided jeep and bike tours (%/fax 28430 94725;
room to the west has a stone kernos (large [email protected]; walks €12-20, mountain bike/
earthen dish) ringed with 32 depressions motorcycle tours €35/75).
and probably used for cult activity. North
of the palace was a Shrine of the Minoan Snake Sleeping & Eating
Goddess, which proved to be a rich trove of Kyma (%28430 94177; [email protected]; studio €30) Fairly
objects from the Postpalatial Period. Notice well signposted on the village’s western side
the storage rooms, workrooms and dwell- near a supermarket, the self-contained studios
ings to the north and east of the site. The are spotless and good value.
buildings were two-storey structures with the Hotel Sofia (%/fax 28430 94554; r €35-45; a)
storage and workrooms in the basement and The rooms above the Sofia taverna have been
the living quarters on the 1st floors. spruced up with new furniture and bedding,
Near the site is Gournia Moon Camping (%/fax and all have TV and fridge, but some are
28420 93243; www.gourniamoon.com; sites per person/tent rather cramped. The front rooms have bal-
€5.70/5.70; s), the closest camp site to Agios conies with sea views. The family also has spa-
Nikolaos. The shaded and well-organised cious apartments 200m east of the harbour,
site has a taverna, swimming pool, snack for families and longer stays. Try the home
bar and mini-market. cooking at the taverna.
Sitia and Ierapetra buses from Agios Mohlos Mare (%/fax 28430 94005; d €45; a) Just
Nikolaos can drop you at the site. outside the village along the coast road, these
well-maintained spacious, well-appointed
apartments are bright and airy and the top
MOHLOS ΜΌΧΛΟΣ rooms have great views from the big balco-
LASITHI

pop 87 nies. There’s a vineyard and garden out the

Mohlos (moh-los) is a pretty fishing village front with hundreds of roses, and a communal
reached by a 5km winding road from the outdoor kitchen and barbecue.
Sitia-Agios Nikolaos highway. In antiquity, To Bogazi (%28430 94200; mezedes €2.50-6.50)
it was joined to the homonymous island Serves more than 30 mezedes, including many
that now sits 200m offshore and was once vegetarian-friendly dishes and a range of sea-
a thriving Early Minoan community dating food and Cretan specials.
from the period 3000–2000 BC. Excavations Ta Kochilia (%28430 94432; mains €4.50-6.50) This
still continue sporadically on both Mohlos excellent place enjoys a lovely setting and is
Island and at Mohlos village. An informa- known for its fresh fish and simple, good food.
tion board overlooking the harbour explains Seafood lovers should try the sea-urchin salad –
the archaeology of the area. dip your bread in it – or the braised cuttlefish
Mohlos is a chill-out place with a small in black ink.
pebble-and-grey-sand beach, simple accom-
modation, plenty of good walks and inter- Getting There & Away
esting villages to explore nearby. Beware of There is no public transport to Mohlos.
strong currents further out in the small strait Buses between Sitia and Agios Nikolaos
between the island and the village. will drop you off at the Mohlos turn-off.
 194 N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • S i t i a lonelyplanet.com

You’ll need to hitch or walk the 6km to ATMs and places to change money. The bus
the village. station is inland near the museum. Ferries
dock about 500m north of Plateia Agnostou.
SITIA ΣΗΤΕΙΑ Akasti Travel (%28430 29444; www.akasti.gr; Korna-
pop 8754 rou & Metaxaki 4) Good source of information.
Sitia (si-tee-a) is an attractive mid-sized coastal Java Internet Café (%28430 22263; Kornarou 113;
town with a pretty harbour-side promenade h9am-late; internet per hr €2)
lined with tavernas and cafés that makes for National Bank of Greece (Papanastasiou & Katapoti)
a pleasant evening stroll. It has fortunately Has a 24-hour exchange machine.
managed to escape the tourist frenzy that grips Post office (Dimokritou; h7.30am-3pm)
most of the north coast in summer. While Tourist office (%28430 28300; Karamanli;
the town is traveller-friendly, it exists for the h9.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm
locals, who rely on agriculture and commerce Sat) On the promenade.
rather than tourism. Tourist police (%28430 24200; Therisou 31) At the
In the bustling streets of the old town that main police station.
wind their way uphill from the harbour, you’ll
find the occasional example of old Venetian Sights & Activities
architecture mixed in with the new. A sandy The excellent Archaeological Museum (%28430
beach skirts a wide bay to the east of town. Sitia 23917; Piskokefalou; admission €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-
attracts lots of French and Greek tourists, but Sun) houses a well-displayed and important
even at the height of the season the town has a collection of local finds spanning Neolithic
relatively laid-back feel that is refreshing com- to Roman times, with emphasis on the Mi-
pared with the commercialism further west. noan civilization. One of the most significant
It also makes a good jumping-off point for exhibits is the Palekastro Kouros – a figure
the Dodecanese islands. pieced together from fragments made of hip-
popotamus tusks and adorned with gold (see
History the boxed text, p198). Finds from the palace
Archaeological excavations indicate that there at Zakros include a wine press, a bronze saw,
were Neolithic settlements around Sitia and jars, cult objects and pots that are clearly
an important Minoan settlement at nearby scorched from the great fire that destroyed
Petras. The original settlement was destroyed the palace. Among the most valuable objects
and eventually abandoned after an earthquake are the Linear A tablets, which reflect the pal-
in 1700 BC. ace’s administrative function.
In the Greco-Roman era there was a town Towering over the town is the kazarma
called Iteia in or around modern Sitia although (fort; admission free; h8.30am-3pm) (from ‘casa di
its exact site has not yet been located. In Byz- arma’), which was a garrison under the Vene-
antine times Sitia became a bishopric, which tians. The only remains of the wall that once
LASITHI

was then eliminated by the Saracens in the 9th protected the town, the site is now used as an
century. Under the Venetians, Sitia became open-air venue.
the most important port in eastern Crete. The folklore museum (%28430 28300; Kapetan
The town was hit by a disastrous earthquake Sifinos 28; admission €2; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri) displays
in 1508 – a blow from which it never really a fine collection of local weaving and other
recovered – and the Turkish blockade of Sitia exhibits of folk life.
in 1648 marked its death knell. The remaining The Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Sitia
inhabitants fled and the town was destroyed. (%28430 29354; admission & tour €2; h8am-3pm),
It was not until the late-19th century when the about 1km before town, showcases the area’s
Turks decided to make Sitia an administra- wines, oil and raki. Tours include a video and
tive centre that the town gradually came back wine tasting. The charge is often waived if you
to life. Crete’s most famous poet, Vitsentzos make a purchase.
Kornaros, was born in Sitia in 1614. About 2km southeast of town is the inter-
esting Minoan archaeological site of Petras on
Orientation & Information a low hill overlooking the sea. You can see
The town’s main square is Plateia Iroon Poly- the remains of the settlement, including two
tehniou – recognisable by its palm trees and houses from the New Palace period. The site
statue of a dying soldier. There are lots of is open to the public.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • S i t i a 195

Universal Diver (%/fax 28430 23489; pavlossimos@yahoo tained neoclassical building uphill from the
.gr; Kornarou 140) is a PADI dive centre offering port, has a real old-world feel. It’s spotless, with
all levels of scuba diving. shared bathrooms and a lovely shady garden in
the front and the top rooms have sea views.
Festivals & Events Apostolis (%28430 28172; Kazantzaki 27; d/tr €37/47)
Sitia produces superior sultanas and the town These domatia have ceiling fans, and relatively
holds a Sultana Festival in honour of the grape modern bathrooms with handy touches such
in the last week of August. as shower curtains. There’s a communal bal-
The Kornaria Festival runs from mid-July to cony and fridge.
the end of August, with concerts, folk dancing El Greco Hotel (%28430 23133; [email protected]
and theatre productions staged in the kazarma net.gr; G Arkadiou 13; s/d incl breakfast €35/50; a) The
and other venues. Posters around town an- quaint and friendly old-style El Greco has very
nounce the events, some of which are free. clean and presentable rooms, and all have a
fridge, phone and extras such as hairdryers.
Sleeping Some sleep up to four.
Hotel Arhontiko (%28430 28172; Kondylaki 16; d/studio Hotel Flisvos (%28430 27135; www.flisvos-sitia
€30/33) This guesthouse, in a beautifully main- .com; Karamanli 4; s/d/tr from €40/50/60;a) Along the

0 200 m
SITIA 0 0.1 miles

26

INFORMATION EATING TRANSPORT

Akasti Travel..............................1 C2 Balcony....................................17 C2 Bus Station...............................24 B4
Java Internet Café......................2 C2 Mitsakakis................................18 C3 Club Cars.................................25 C3
National Bank of Greece............3 B3 O Mihos..................................19 C2 Ferry Terminal..........................26 D1
Post Office.................................4 B3 Rakadiko Houlis.......................20 C2 Olympic Airways......................27 C3
Tourist Office.............................5 C3 Remezzo riou
Kollios.......................21 C2
Tourist Police.............................6 A3 to v
Sergiani....................................22 C3
Ok 9 To Piraeus; Kasos;
28Sitia Beach...............................23 C3 Karpathos; Halki;
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Rhodes
To Airport
Archaeological Museum.............7 B4 (800m)
a
ing 8
Folklore Museum........................ B2 stir
Pl a
Flem
Kazarma (Fort)...........................9 C1 N Harbour
k i ki
Universal Diver.........................10 C2 tav
ra Ioni a s ela
S us
Ro
SLEEPING i 13
e la k M
Ang
u

Apostolis..................................11 B2 o eta
di xa
El Greco Hotel..........................12 B2 ka k
Ar i
ki

ou
Hotel Arhontiko....................... 13 C2 12 19 1
yla
G

lom
nd

So
Hotel Flisvos............................. 14 C3 10
Ko

D 2
Itanos Hotel............................. 15 C3 21
Ka K az
Sitia Bay Hotel......................... 16 D4 pe 11 an t
zak 20
ta n 8 i
Si f 17
in o
s
LASITHI

Plateia Iroön
ou

Polytehniou
MK

eou
Fer
nar

ga
atao

Kor

Ri os
15
s on 5
pot

18
Mi
i

4 14
lo

6 iou
ize

vr 27
sou em
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eri pt
Ka
Ve

Th Se
ra

A P 25
El

apa 3 4 ou
an

nas re Sea of
nd
li

t as
iou pa Crete
To Union of Agricultural Pa
Va

Cooperatives of Sitia (1km);

rth

Agios Nikolaos (70km);

ol
om

Iraklio (137km) 23
P res o u
eo

22
u

24
7
Piskokefalou

To Petras (2km);
Palekastro (17km);
Vai (23km)
16

To Ierapetra
(62km)
 196 N O R T H E A S T C OA S T • • M o n i T o p l o u lonelyplanet.com

southern waterfront, Flisvos is a decent mod- Getting There & Away

ern hotel. Rooms are neat and have air-con, AIR
TV, fridge, phone and balconies and there Sitia’s airport (%28430 24666) has an expanded
is a recently renovated back wing with more international-size runway but international
spacious rooms and a lift. flights had yet to operate in 2007.
Itanos Hotel (%28430 22900; www.itanoshotel.com; Olympic Airlines (%28430 22270; www.olympicair
Karamanli 4; sea view s/d incl breakfast €42/56; ai) lines.com; 4 Septemvriou 3) has four weekly flights
You could also try this place on the water- to Athens (€71, one hour), Alexandroupolis
front. There’s a rooftop terrace restaurant and (€8, two hours) and three flights per week
internet access downstairs. to Preveza (€80, two hours and 20 minutes).
Sitia Bay Hotel (%28430 24800 www.sitiabay.com; There are also daily flights (€47) with three
Paraliaki Leoforos 8; apt/ste from €110/160; a) It looks stops to Kassos (20 minutes), Karpathos (1
like another modern hotel but the service is hour) and Rhodes (2 hours).
as personal and friendly as it gets, with home-
made bread, marmalade and cakes brought BOAT
to your room daily. Most of the comfortable LANE Lines (%28430 25555; www.lane.gr) has weekly
and tasteful one- and two-room apartments ferries from Sitia to Rhodes via Kasos (€19.50,
have sea views, and there’s a pool, hydrospa, six hours), Karpathos (€19.50, eight hours),
mini-gym and sauna. Diafani (€17.90, nine hours), Halki (€18.20,
11 hours) and Rhodes (€27, 14 hours). De-
Eating parture times change annually, so check with
Sitia Beach (%28430 22104; Karamanli 28; mains €5.50-8) a travel agent or ring LANE Lines for latest
This unassuming place on the beach makes information.
a decent pizza but it is more highly recom-
mended for home-style cooking that appears BUS
daily on the specials board. Try the pork with From Sitia’s Bus Station (%28430 22272) there
lemon and rice. are six buses per day to Ierapetra (€5.40, 1½
O Mihos (%28430 22416; Kornarou 117; mixed grill hours), seven buses to Iraklio (€13.10, three
for 2 €20) This psistaria in a traditional stone hours) via Agios Nikolaos (€6.90, 1½ hours),
house one block back from the waterfront four to Vai (€3, 30 minutes), and two to Kato
has excellent charcoal-grilled meats as well Zakros via Palekastro and Zakros (€4.50, one
as Cretan cooking. There are also tables on a hour). The buses to Vai and Kato Zakros only
terrace nearby on the beach. run between May and October.
Houlis Rakadiko (%28430 28298; Venizelou 57) For a
more classic local experience try this old place, Getting Around
which has a wide range of fine mezedes ac- TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
companied by good raki. It has no signage, but The airport (signposted) is 1.5km out of town.
LASITHI

it’s the second place from the corner; by day There is no airport bus; a taxi costs about €5.
it’s packed with men playing backgammon.
oBalcony (%28430 25084; Foundalidou 19; CAR & MOTORCYCLE
mains €10.60-18.80) The finest dining in Sitia is Car- and motorcycle-hire outlets are mostly
on the 1st floor of this charmingly decorated found on Papandreou and Itanou. Try Club
neoclassical building. It has an eclectic menu Cars (%28430 25104; Papandreou 4).
of fusion cuisine, from Cretan to Mexican and
Asian-inspired dishes from the charmingly MONI TOPLOU ΜΟΝΉ ΤΟΠΛΟΎ
feisty owner-chef (and ex-singer) Tonya’s East of Sitia, the imposing Moni Toplou (%28430
travels. Service can be patchy. 61226; admission €2.50; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct) looks more
Also recommended: like a fortress than a monastery – a necessity
Mitsakakis (%28430 22377; Karamanli 5) For a sweet imposed by the dangers it faced at the time of
treat, the galaktoboureko (custard-filled pastry with syrup) its construction. It is one of the most histori-
is highly recommended. cally significant and progressive monasteries
Remezzo Kollios (%28430 28607; Venizelou 167 12; on Crete. The middle of the 15th century was
seafood dishes €5-18) On the waterfront. Popular but pricey. marked by piracy, banditry and constant re-
Sergiani (%28430 24092; Karamanli 38) On the bellions. The monks defended themselves
waterfront. with all the means at their disposal, including
lonelyplanet.com E A S T C OA S T • • Va i 197

a heavy gate, cannons (the name Toplou is that they sprouted from date pits spread by
Turkish for ‘with a cannon’) and small holes Roman legionaries relaxing on their way
for pouring boiling oil onto the heads of back from conquering Egypt. While these
their attackers. Nevertheless, it was sacked palms are closely related to the date, they
by pirates in 1498, looted by the Knights of are a separate species found only on Crete.
Malta in 1530, pillaged by the Turks in 1646 In July and August, you’ll need to arrive
and captured by the Turks in 1821. early to appreciate the setting, because the
Moni Toplou had always been active in place is packed and the beach is covered in
the cause for Cretan independence and paid sun-beds and umbrellas (€6).
a price for it. Under the Turkish occupation, a It’s possible to escape the worst of the bal-
secret school operated in the monastery, while lyhoo – jet skis and all – by clambering over
its reputation for hiding rebels led to severe a rocky outcrop behind the taverna to a stun-
reprisals. During WWII, Abbot Silingakis was ning secluded beach. Alternatively, you can go
executed after sheltering resistance leaders op- over the hill in the other direction to a series
erating an underground radio transmitter. of quiet coves frequented by nudists.
The monastery’s star attraction is un- The Restaurant-Cafeteria Vai (%28430 61129;
doubtedly the icon Lord Thou Art Great by mains €4-6) is dependable and welcome after a
celebrated Cretan artist Ioannis Kornaros. hard day on the beach.
Each of the 61 small scenes painted on the There are buses to Vai from Sitia (€2.50, one
icon is beautifully worked out and inspired hour, five daily). The car park charges €3.
by a phrase from the Orthodox prayer that
begins ‘Lord, Thou Art Great’. The icon is ITANOS ΙΤΑΝΟΣ
in the northern aisle of the church, along If you’re after more secluded beaches, head
with 14th-century frescoes and an icon stand north for another 3km to the ancient Minoan
from 1770. site of Itanos. Although inhabited from about
An excellent museum tells the monastery’s 1500 BC, Itanos was clearly prosperous by the
history and has a fine collection of icons, en- 7th century BC since it was an important trad-
gravings and books, as well as weapons and ing post for exports to the Near East and Middle
military souvenirs from the resistance. East. Its archrival was Praisos, near Ierapetra,
The abbot, Filotheos Spanoudakis, is one and in 260 BC Itanos hosted a garrison of Egyp-
of the most dynamic on Crete, promoting tians to fortify its position against Praisos.
organic farming through the local agricul- When Ierapetra destroyed Praisos in 155
tural cooperative and cultivating the mon- BC, Itanos fought with Ierapetra as well and
astery’s large landholdings. He built an olive again received foreign help from Magnesia, a
oil and wine bottling plant on the monastery Roman city. The town was destroyed some-
grounds for the local community. Controver- where towards the end of the Byzantine era
sial plans for a massive tourism development and may have been re-inhabited by the Vene-
LASITHI

on monastery land on the remote northern tians. It’s difficult to discern any recognisable
tip of the island have sparked major protests building in Itanos, but there are remains of
from environmentalists. two early Christian basilicas and a Hellenistic
The well-stocked shop sells the monastery’s wall. The site is well marked and next to swim-
award-winning organic olive oil and wine. ming coves shaded by pine trees.
The monastery is a 3km walk from the
Sitia-Palekastro road. Buses can drop you off PALEKASTRO ΠΑΛΑΊΚΑΣΤΡΟ
at the junction. pop 1084
Palekastro (pah-leh-kas-tro) is a modern
farming town that is more of a stopover or
EAST COAST useful base for exploring eastern Crete than as
a destination in itself. It’s situated in the midst
of a rocky, barren landscape, but is within easy
VAI ΒΆΙ striking distance of the lovely Kouremenos
The beach at Vai, on Crete’s east coast 24km Beach, Vai Beach and Moni Toplou.
from Sitia, is famous for its unique palm About 1km from town, towards Hiona
forest. There are many stories about the beach, is the archaeological site of Rous-
origin of these palms, including the theory solakkos, where archaeologists believe a major
 198 E A S T C OA S T • • A r o u n d Pa l e k a s t r o Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Minoan Palace is buried (see boxed text, Hiona Holiday Hotel (%28430 29623; s/d €50/60) If
below). This is where the Palekastro kouros – you want modern, this new hotel has a glitzy
now residing in the Archaeological Museum exterior and more of a city hotel feel, but the
in Sitia (p194) – was found. rooms are tastefully decorated and have de-
Tucked in a back street and badly sign- cent facilities.
posted is the well-presented Folk Museum of To Finistrini (%28430 61117; mezedes €2-6) About
Palekastro (%28430 61123; admission €2; h10am- 200m along the Vai road, this neat little ou-
1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat), housed in a traditional old zerie-cum-mezedopoleio (mezes restaurant)
manor house with displays also in the old dishes up tasty mezedes that go down well
stables and bakery. with a shot or 10 of raki.
Palekastro’s economy is built on fishing and Mythos (%28430 61243; mains €4.80-5.90) Opposite
agriculture, with tourism limited to July and Hellas, this pleasant and popular taverna has a
August. It’s best to have your own transport. big vegetarian mezes selection and traditional
mayirefta, fish and grills.
Orientation & Information
The main street runs through the town and Getting There & Away
forks in the town centre. The tourist office There are five buses per day from Sitia that
(%28430 61546; www.palaikastro.com h9am-10pm stop at Palekastro on the way to Vai. There
May-Oct) changes money and has information are also two buses daily from Sitia to Palekas-
on rooms and transport. There’s an ATM tro (€2.20, 45 minutes) that continue to Kato
next door and a postal agent near Itanos Zakros (€4.50, 1 hour).
rooms. Check email at Hellas Internet Café
(h 10am-11.30pm). The bus stop is in the AROUND PALEKASTRO
centre of town. Kouremenos, north of Palekastro, is a nearly
deserted pebble beach with good shallow-
Sleeping & Eating water swimming and excellent windsurfing.
Hotel Hellas (%28430 61240; hellas [email protected]; s/ You can hire boards from Freak Surf Station
d €30-45; a) This place offers simple rooms (%28430 61116; www.freak-surf.com, board hire per week
with air-con, TV, telephone and fridge, up- €190, courses from €45) on the beach.
dated bathrooms and double-glazed windows. Hiona Beach is another quiet choice to the
Downstairs at the taverna, Marika cooks up east, with some great fish tavernas on the
reputedly the best lunch in town, with hearty beach. I Hiona (%28430 61228) is considered the
home-style cooking (dishes €4-6.90). The best of the three, with super-fresh fish, but
stifado (stew) and aubergine imam (Turkish Kakavia, which is renowned for its fish soup,
vegetable stew) are recommended. is also recommended.
LASITHI

BURIED PALACE
About a kilometre from Palekastro town, there’s a significant Minoan archaeological site believed
to be part of a yet-to-be unearthed Minoan palace complex that is the second-largest Minoan
city after Knossos. The Roussolakos site, next to Hiona beach, is being excavated by the British
School of Archaeology.
Excavations have so far produced important finds such as the Palekastro Kouros, on display
in the Sitia Archaeological Museum (p194), along with mostly Bronze Age Kamares pottery, am-
phorae, soapstone serpentine lamps and pithoi (large storage jars). The Kouros, made of gold
and ivory, is believed to be the first image of a Minoan god. Archaeologists believe this site is
one of two major temples on Crete referred to by Greek philosophers.
Although the site was excavated in the early 1900s, the 1960s and several times since 1988,
those digs did not get to the heart of the site. With new technology used in oil exploration,
archaeologists have confirmed that there is a huge structure under the olive groves nearby but
it will be years before there is funding for such a massive dig and a museum would have to be
built on site for the finds.
The site is open to visitors and makes for a pleasant walk. You can see the layout of the streets
and there are signs indicating what was underneath the sections that were covered.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com E A S T C OA S T • • Z a k r o s & K a t o Z a k r o s 199

Casa di Mare (%28430 25304; www.casadimare.com; stu- Kato Zakros Palace (%/fax 28430 29550; www
dio €40-60; as), opposite Kouremenos Beach, .palaikastro.com/katozakrospalace; r/studio/apt €45-75) Up
has six spacious, comfortable studios with stone on the hill as you approach, this is a bit of an
floors and rustic-style décor that sleep up to four. eyesore but does have superb views and spa-
There’s a small pool among the olive groves. cious new accommodation.
Apartments Grandes (%28430 61496; www.grandes Four good accommodation places in Za-
.gr; q studio €65; a) is a pretty place on Koure- kros are under the same management (%28430
menos Beach surrounded by a flower garden 26893; www.katozakros.cret efamilyhotels.com).
and trees. It’s well-equipped, decorated with Athena & Coral Rooms (d €30-50; a) Behind the
style and has a beachfront taverna. Akrogiali taverna. Athena has pleasant rooms with heavy
stone walls, while Coral has excellent, small but spotless
ZAKROS & KATO ZAKROS rooms equipped with a fridge and great veranda with sea
ΖΑΚΡΟΣ KAI ΚΑΤΩ ΖΑΚΡΟΣ views.
pop 753 & 15 Katerina Apartments (apt €40-60) Four excellent
The village of Zakros (zah-kros), 45km south- stone-built studios and maisonettes opposite Stellas, which
east of Sitia, an important agricultural centre, can sleep up to four and enjoy a superb setting.
is the nearest permanent settlement to the Poseidon Rooms (d €20-40) Budget rooms in a great
east-coast Minoan site of Zakros, 7km away. spot right on the beach, (some with shared bathrooms)
While there is little incentive to linger in the and there’s a communal fridge.
village (there is only one hotel), it’s a lively
place where the kafeneia and ouzeries are al- Eating
ways animated and there is rarely a tourist The rivalry can be fierce among the tavernas
in sight. Zakros is the starting point for the on the beach.
trail through the Zakros Gorge, known as the Akrogiali Taverna (%28430 26893, mains €5-9)
Valley of the Dead. It takes its moniker from the Relaxed seaside dining and excellent service
fact that ancient burial sites are located in the from the inimitable owner Nikos Perakis. The
numerous caves dotting the canyon walls, speciality is grilled swordfish steak (€9) and
rather than from hapless hikers who failed to the raki is excellent.
make it (see the boxed text, p200). Restaurant Nikos Platanakis (%28430 26887; mains
Kato Zakros (kah-to zah-kros) is just about €5-7.50) This well-regarded restaurant has a
the most tranquil place to stay on Crete’s wide range of Greek staples such as rabbit
southeastern coast. It’s little more than a stew, excellent hortopitakia (pittas with spin-
long stretch of pebbly beach shaded by pine ach and greens) and grilled meat and fish.
trees and bordered by a string of tavernas. The Most of the produce is from the massive veg-
settlement is unlikely ever to expand, thanks etable garden out the back.
to restrictions imposed by the archaeologi-
cal service. Once you’ve done the gorge and Getting There & Away
LASITHI

poked around the palace site, there is little to There are buses to Zakros from Sitia via
do but relax on the beach, snorkel, fish, sleep Palekastro (€4.50, one hour, two daily).
and deliberate on what to have for dinner. From June to August, the buses continue to
Kato Zakros.
Sleeping
The domatia in Kato Zakros fill up fast in ZAKROS PALACE
the high season, so it is best to book. If there Although Zakros Palace (%28430 26897; Kato Zakros;
are no rooms available you can camp at the admission €3; h8am-7.30pm Jul-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-
southern end of the beach. Jun) was the last Minoan palace to have been
Stella’s Apartments (%/fax 28430 23739; www.ste discovered (1962), the excavations proved
lapts.com; studio €40-75) These charming studios remarkably fruitful.
are in a lovely verdant, pine-tinged setting The exquisite rock-crystal vase and stone
800m along the old road to Zakros. Deco- bull’s head now in Iraklio’s Archaeological
rated with wooden furniture made by Elias, Museum (see p149) were found at Zakros,
the handyman (and hiker), they have barbe- along with a treasure trove of Minoan antiq-
cues, external kitchen with an honour-system uities. Ancient Zakros, the smallest of Crete’s
for supplies, and hammocks under the trees. four palatial complexes, was a major port in
They are perfect for longer stays. Minoan times, trading with Egypt, Syria,
 200 E A S T C OA S T • • Z a k r o s Pa l a c e lonelyplanet.com

WALKS AROUND ZAKROS

A walk through the spectacular Valley of the Dead to Kato Zakros is a must, but there are many
other interesting and well-marked but little-traversed trails in the area. Not as lush and dramatic
as Crete’s west, the barren landscape around Zakros is nonetheless spectacular, with the aroma
of wild oregano and thyme wafting from underfoot. Apart from the gorge, all the walks are un-
shaded but they are relatively level and much easier than the west for less-fit or older walkers.
Always take food and water and wear sturdy footwear.
Most of the walking trails around Zakros have been cleared and signposted with handmade
wooden signs by hiking fanatic Elias Pagianidis (find him at Stella’s Apartments, p199). He is
happy to pass on his knowledge of the area and update Anavasi’s Zakros hiking map (which he
has posted on a board at the start of the gorge). Elias’ suggested walks are listed here. If you
have wheels you can also drive to the start of the Hohlakies Gorge and do the one-hour walk
to the lovely isolated Karoumes beach.

Zakros Gorge
The walk starts from just below Zakros village and winds it way through a narrow and (at times)
soaring canyon with a riot of vegetation and wild herbs. About 3km from Zakros is an alternative
starting point, but this way you miss a significant section of the gorge. The trail emerges close
to the Zakros Palace, 200m from the beach (two hours).

Kato Zakros to Traostalos

About 10m from the southern mouth of the gorge is a well-marked path up to Mt Traostalos
(turn right after 25 minutes at the fork in the path), which offers superb views from the rise at
Skopeli (1½ hours). You can walk back the same way or continue to the Pelekita cave, taking
the coastal walk back (four hours round trip).

Kato Zakros–Azokeramos–Zakros Gorge

Taking the same path towards Traostalos, this time you take the left fork towards Azokeramos.
Rather than go all the way to Azokeramos, at the marked junction near Skafi, veer left towards
Vahlias and follow the dry Xeropotamos riverbed south, which meets the Zakros gorge at Lenika,
taking you back to the beach (three hours round trip).

Northern coastal walk: Zakros–Pelekita–Karoumes Beach

This is a spectacular route above the sea past an ancient quarry and cave at Pelekita (2½
hours).
LASITHI

Southern coastal walk: Zakros–Xerokambos–Katsounaki Beach

A walk along the east coast (1¾ hours).

Anatolia and Cyprus. The ruins are not well was the focal point of the whole palace. Notice
preserved and water levels have risen over the the altar base in the northwestern corner of
years so that some parts of the palace complex the court; there was also a well in the southeast
are submerged (and home to many turtles). corner of the court at the bottom of eight steps.
If you enter the palace complex on the south- When the site was excavated the well contained
ern side you will first come to the workshops for the preserved remains of olives that may have
the palace. The King’s apartment and Queen’s been offered to the deities.
apartment are to the right of the entrance. Next Adjacent to the central court is the Hall of
to the King’s apartment is the Cistern Hall, which Ceremonies in which two rhytons were found.
once had a cistern in the centre surrounded To the south is the Banquet Hall, so named for
by a colonnaded balustrade. Seven steps de- the quantity of wine vases found there. To the
scended to the floor of the cistern, which may north of the central court is the kitchen. The
have been a swimming pool, an aquarium or a column bases probably supported the dining
pool for a sacred boat. Nearby, the Central Court room above. To the west of the central court is
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com E A S T C OA S T • • X e r o k a m b o s 201

another light well and to the left of the banquet far southeastern flank of Crete. Its isolation
hall is the Lustral Basin, which once contained means that tourism is pretty much low key
a magnificent marble amphora. The Lustral and most certainly of the unpackaged kind.
Basin served as a washroom for those enter- Its appeal lies in that very isolation. There are
ing the nearby Central Shrine. You can still see a couple of splendid beaches, a few scattered
a ledge and a niche in the south wall for the tavernas and studio accommodation.
ceremonial idols. Ambelos Beach, north of the rocky headland
Below the Lustral Basin is the Treasury, which that splits Xerokambos in two, is a small, in-
yielded nearly a hundred jars and rhytons. Next timate beach and enjoys some shade. Mazidas
to the treasury is the Archive Room that once con- Beach, on the south, is larger but has no shade.
tained Linear A record tablets. Northeast of the Most accommodation and tavernas are near
archives room is the bathroom with a cesspit. Ambelos. There is a well-stocked mini-market
on the north side of Mazidas Beach.
XEROKAMBOS ΞΕΡΟΚΑΜΠΟΣ
pop 28 Sleeping & Eating
Xerokambos (kse-ro-kam-bos) is a quiet and Ambelos Beach Studios (%/fax 28430 26759; stu-
spread-out agricultural settlement on the dio €30-40) These cosy studios have basic

ZAKROS PALACE 0 50 m

A B C D
Archive Room.................1 A3
Banquet Hall....................2 B3
Bathroom........................3 C3
1 Central Shrine..................4 A3
Cistern Hall..................... 5 C4
Hall of Ceremonies...........6 B3
King's Apartment.............7 B3
Kitchen & Dining Room...8 B3
Light Well........................9 A3
Lustral Basin..................10 A3
Main Gate.....................11 C3
Queen's Apartment.......12 B3
Storeroom Block............13 B3
Storerooms....................14 B3
Treasury........................15 A3
Well...............................16 B4
Workshops....................17 B4
2
LASITHI

13 14
8

9
6 3
1
11
3 4
10

15 North East
12 Court
Central
Court 7
2

5
South
Entrance
16
4 17
 202 S O U T H C OA S T • • I e r a p e t r a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

kitchenettes, fridges and flyscreens. There and it attracts relatively few tourists. There
is a barbecue and outdoor wood oven for are tavernas and cafés along the waterfront,
guests, and a tree-shaded garden courtyard a small Venetian fort on the harbour and the
that makes it well-suited to families. It’s just odd remnant of a Turkish quarter. The town
across from the beach. beach and surrounding beaches are good,
Akti Apartments (%28430 26780; studio €35-45; the nightlife busy enough and the scene is
a) With balconies overlooking the beach, still Cretan enough to give you a less tour-
these comfortable studios are perfect for isty experience of the island.
couples. They are light and nicely decorated Ierapetra was an important city for the
and have kitchenettes. There are also family Dorians and the last city to fall to the Ro-
apartments (€65-80). mans, who made it a major port of call in
Villa Petrino (%28430 26702; www.xerokampos.eu; d their conquest of Egypt. The city languished
€40; a) These attractive, large, fully equipped under the Venetians, but they did build the
apartments are suitable for families. Over- small fortress at the western end of the
looking the garden, they have built-in beds, harbour.
marble floors and the top rooms have From Ierapetra you can visit the offshore,
beach views. low-lying, sandy island of Gaidouronisi (also
Kostas Taverna (%28430 26702; mains €3-6) Next known as Hrysi).
to Villa Petrino, this friendly and well- Every Saturday there is a street market on
regarded taverna has a shady veranda with Psilinaki St from 7am to 2pm.
views out to sea. The multilingual owner,
Nikos, is happy to show you the day’s offer- Orientation & Information
ing in the trays and pots in the kitchen. Try The bus station is on the eastern side of
the rabbit rismarato with rosemary and vin- town and there are ATMs around the
egar served with hand-cut fried potatoes. main square. Find town information at
Akrogiali Taverna (%28430 26777; mains €4.50- www.ierap etra.net.
8) Near Ambelos Beach Studios, this is the City Netcafé (%28420 23164; Kothri 6; per hr €2.50;
only real beachside taverna in Xerokambos. h9am-late) Check email here.
Under new management, it does a range of Post office (%28420 22271; Kornarou 7; h7.30am-
mezedes, grills and home-style specials such 2pm)
as rabbit (in busy periods).
Sights
Getting There & Away Ierapetra’s one-room archaeological museum
There are no buses to Xerokambos. From (%28420 28721; Adrianou (Dimokratias) 2; admission €2;
Zakros there’s a signposted turnoff to h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is perfect for those with
Xerokambos, via an 8km winding dirt road a short concentration span. It does have a
that is rough but drivable in a conventional good collection of headless classical statuary
LASITHI

vehicle (it was slowly being asphalted when and a superb statue of the goddess Perse-
we were there). Otherwise there is a good phone that dates from the 2nd century AD.
paved road from Ziros. Also notable is a larnax (clay coffin), dated
around 1300 BC, decorated with 12 painted
panels showing hunting scenes, an octopus
SOUTH COAST and a chariot procession. The 1899 building
was a school during Ottoman times.
South along the waterfront is the medi-
IERAPETRA ΙΕΡΑΠΕΤΡΑ eval fortress (admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun),
pop 11,877 built in the early years of Venetian rule and
Ierapetra (yeh-rah-pet-rah) is Europe’s most strengthened by Francesco Morosini in 1626.
southerly major town that services the sur- It was in a pretty fragile state and closed for
rounding farming region. Ierapetra’s main restoration at the time of research.
business continues to be agriculture rather Inland from here is the labyrinthine old
than tourism, as the greenhouses that line quarter, where you will see a Turkish fountain,
the landscape along the coast will attest. the restored mosque with its minaret, and
Despite being one of the wealthiest cities the old churches of Agios Ioannis and Agios
in Greece, it is a largely unremarkable place Georgios. Napoleon’s house is where the man
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H C OA S T • • I e r a p e t r a 203

0 200 m
IERAPETRA 0 0.1 miles

akos
INFORMATION ENTERTAINMENT Periferi
To Koutsounari
City Netcafé.................................1 C3 Parados......................................26 B3 Camping (7km);

Frangaki
Eurobank......................................2 B3 Privilege.....................................27 B4 Sitia (62km)
National Bank..............................3 C3
To Ha Gorge (13.5km);
National Bank of Greece..............4 C3 TRANSPORT Agios Nikolaos (36km);
Post Office...................................5 B4 Boat Tickets to Gaïdouronisi.......28 B4 Iraklio (103km)
Boats to Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi)......29 C4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bus Station.................................30 C2
Agios Georgios Church................6 B4 Taxi Stand..................................31 B4
Agios Ioannis Church...................7 B4 Taxi Stand..................................32 C3
Archaeological Museum...............8 B3
Medieval Fortress.........................9 B5 Kalimeraki
Mosque.....................................10 A5
Napoleon's House......................11 B5 Psil
Turkish Fountain........................12 A5 ina
ki

u
30

go
Kazantzaki

pa
SLEEPING

Pa
Astron Hotel..............................13 C3

Lakerda
Coral Apartments.......................14 D3
Afxendiou Plateia
Coral Hotel.................................15 B4 Plastira
Kokkini

Cretan Villa Hotel.......................16 C2

16
Ersi Hotel...................................17 C3

P M
Katerina.....................................18 C3 Baritaki

et
ax
14

ak
EATING

i
I Kalitehnes................................19 A3 32
raki
Napoleon...................................20 B5 Giannako
u Lamb
Plateia iou
Ntoukiani...................................21 B4 Sports Georg
Pavlis..........................................22 B4 Venizelou Centre Tsardi
Portego......................................23 B4 13
Beach
us

Taverna Babis.............................24 B5 i 18 ou
hr poul
no

t
To Kafeneio...............................25 B4 Ko rko
Ma
the
a
rak

1 e
Las

4 ad
en
Ko
Kyprou

m
Plateia 3 Pro
26 17Eleftherias
To Myrtos (16km);
Ano Viannos (42km) Adriano 8 2
19 u
Plateia
midi

Georgiou
Kounoupaki 31
Oplar Var

Town
a 21 25 29
Hout Hall

5 23 Boat
6 27 22 Libyan
u

Kyrva

Terminal
aro

Sea
n
Kor

15
28
Medieval 7
Wall Town Medieval
Beach Port
LASITHI

Old
12 10 Quarter 20
il
ou
Stratigou Sam

11 24

Koug
ioum
tzogi
ou

9
Port To Gaïdouronisi
(Hrysi)

himself is said to have stayed incognito coarse, grey sand, but the main beach offers
with a local family when his ship anchored better shade.
in Crete for one night in 1798 on the way
to Egypt. He apparently left a note revealing Festivals & Events
his identity. Ierapetra’s annual Kyrvia Festival runs from
The main town beach is near the harbour, July to August and features a wide range
while a second beach stretches east from the of concerts, plays and art exhibitions. Bro-
bottom of Patriarhou Metaxaki. Both have chures are available in hotels and at the
 204 S O U T H C OA S T • • G a i d o u r o n i s i ( H r y s i I s l a n d ) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

town hall. Cultural events are also held historic 1900s house of local character Anna
in spring. Bey, whose portrait is in the back room. It
has a good wine list, a lovely courtyard for
Sleeping summer and a cool bar.
Koutsounari Camping (%28420 61213; www.camp Napoleon (%28420 22410; Stratigou Samouil 26; mains
ing-koutsounari.epimlas.gr; per tent/adult €4/6) About €4.50-9) This is one of the oldest and most re-
7km east at Koutsounari, it has a restaurant, spected establishments. It’s on the waterfront
snack bar and mini-market. Ierapetra-Sitia on the south side of town. There is fresh fish
buses pass the site. and Greek and Cretan specialties, but what-
Ersi Hotel (% 28420 23208; Plateia Eleftherias ever you order is of a high quality.
19; d €30; a) This refurbished central hotel I Kalitehnes (%28420 28547; Kyprou 26; mains €4-7)
has neat rooms with a fridge, TV and sea This colourful little place tucked in a back-
views, though some are rather compact. The street among hardware stores and tyre shops
same family runs the Coral and larger fully- has great-value organic food, such as okra
equipped apartments (€45-60) on the other and potatoes and spicier falafel and kebabs
side of town introduced by the Egyptian owner, as well as
Coral Hotel (%28420 22846; Katzonovatsi 12; d €30) its own tasty bread. The Turkish squat toilet,
This is another reasonable budget option in however, takes the exotic a little too far.
a quiet pocket of the old town. Also recommended on the waterfront are
Cretan Villa Hotel (%/fax 28420 28522; www.cre Taverna Babis, with an enormous range of
tan-villa.com; Lakerda 16; s/d with aircon €40/50, without mezedes, or Gorgona for fresh fish.
aircon €35/44; a) This well-maintained 18th-
century house is the most atmospheric place Entertainment
in town. The traditionally furnished rooms Kyrva is Ierapetra’s main nightlife strip, with
have a fridge and TV, and there is a peace- clubs such as Privilege and others catering
ful courtyard. It’s a five-minute walk from to locals with non-stop Greek club music.
the bus station. The rooms without air-con You’ll find more nightclubs around the corner
are cheaper. on Foniadaki. Portego is a classy place for a
Katerina (%28420 28345; fax 28420 28591; Marko- drink, while Parados, behind the museum, is
poulou 95; r €45; a) The sea views are the sav- known for jazz.
ing grace of these dreary rooms with basic
bathrooms. Getting There & Away
Astron Hotel (%28420 25114; [email protected]; There are nine buses per day from Ierapetra’s
Kothri 56; s/d incl breakfast €50/75; a) The town’s bus station (%28420 28237; Lasthenous) to Iraklio
top hotel, it’s a block from the beach. The (€8.60, 2½ hours), via Agios Nikolaos (€3.30,
comfortable rooms here come with satellite one hour) and Gournia; seven to Sitia (€5, 1½
TV and telephone; some have sea views. hours) via Koutsounari (for camp sites); and
LASITHI

seven to Myrtos (€1.60, 30 minutes).

Eating Taxis (%28420 26600) can take you anywhere
Ierapetra has an excellent tradition of for a fixed fare. Fares are posted outside the
rakadika, relaxed evening hang-outs where town hall rank for destinations including Irak-
a carafe of raki or wine comes with half a lio (€74), Agios Nikolaos (€33), Sitia (€50)
dozen or more tasty tid-bits, making it a good and Myrtos (€14). There is another rank at
value slow dining experience. You could try Plateia Venizelou.
To Kafeneio opposite the town hall, the popular Boats for Gaidouronisi leave from the quay
Ntoukiani (Ethnikis Antistaseos 19) or the modern every morning. Most travel agents around the
reincarnation Pavlis, near the port, where for quay sell tickets (€15).
€3 per carafe you get six or seven plates of
excellent mezes. GAIDOURONISI (HRYSI ISLAND)
oPortego (%28420 27733; Foniadaki 8; ΓΑΙΔΑΡΟΥΝΗΣΙ/ΧRYSI
mezedes €3-5, wood-oven specials €5-9) This delightful Just off the coast of Ierapetra, you will find
restaurant serves excellent Cretan and Greek greater tranquillity at Gaidouronisi (Donkey
cuisine and has dishes cooked in the wood- Island) – universally marketed in Ierapetra as
fired oven (as is their bread). Try the lamb Hrysi or Hrissi (Golden Island) – where there
in a clay pot with yogurt. It is housed in the are good sandy beaches, a taverna (alarmingly
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H C OA S T • • H a G o r g e 205

rumoured to be taken over by a chain snack with superb food and excellent music. It has
store), and a stand of Lebanon cedars, the only a refreshing yogurt dip with purslane, but the
one in Europe. It can get very crowded when highlight is the wood-oven pies – share the
the tour boats are in, but you can always find goat-and-cheese pie with fennel (€8).
a quiet spot. Kalliotzina (%28430 51207) next door is a
In summer, excursion boats (€15) leave from highly regarded taverna, with tables overlook-
the Ierapetra quay every morning and return ing the beach and standard taverna fare. Sign-
in the afternoon. posted off the beach road, Big Blue (%28430
52100; d €40; a) has a range of bright studios
HA GORGE ΦΑΡΑΓΓΙ ΧΑ and apartments right on the pebble beach
Some 13.5km north of Ierapetra is the wild with a pleasant beach bar.
and beautiful Ha Gorge, perhaps the most chal- The fine white sandy beach at the eastern
lenging gorge to traverse in all of Europe. end of Makrigialos, 24km from Ierapetra, is
More of an extreme climbing experience than one of the best on the southeastern coast,
a hike – most of the time you need ropes or but the town has been swamped by the giant
must swim – the Ha Gorge is a narrow rent in Sunwing resort and other development that
the imposing mountains with water running obscures the beachfront promenade and the
its entire length – including 27 waterfalls. The pleasant port.
first intrepid climbers to successfully cross it On the road to Sitia, you can take a detour
(1987) took seven days to tackle the 1800m to the abandoned medieval village of Voila, on
gorge. It was secured in recent times and an a hill 1km above the village of Handras (well
experienced team of climbers can do the gut- signposted). A relatively well-preserved tower
wrenching and occasionally dangerous hike and arches on the dwellings reveal a mix of
in three to six hours (see p74). architectural styles. There is also a flowing
Venetian fountain nearby.
EAST OF IERAPETRA About 7km east of Makrigialos, on the sce-
The good beaches to the east of Ierapetra nic drive along the rocky coastline, is Moni
tend to be crowded in peak season and you Kapsa (%28430 51638; h8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-8pm),
really need a car to explore the area. About built into the craggy cliffs. It has a colourful
13km east is the lovely beach of Agias Fotias, history, flourishing under small-time crook
although it’s no longer the isolated beach that and self-proclaimed miracle worker Geron-
was popular with campers. togiannis (after a timely vision from god) who
Much of this coastline has been dotted by used his ill-gotten fame and fortune to extend
plastic-covered greenhouses and haphazard the monastery. There are some fine icons and
unattractive tourism development. There’s ornate wooden temples in the chapels. The
little on the drive through to make you want monastery is built at the mouth of the Pe-
to stop but there are some appealing tucked- rivolakia Gorge (Kapsa), a 3.5km walk from the
LASITHI

away places. You would be excused for driv- village Perivolakia, which emerges at a decent
ing straight through Koutsouras, but just off small beach.
the main road Rovinsona’s (%28430 51026; mezes At the half-way point to Kapsa from Makri-
€4-7; h3pm till late) is a delightful surprise, over- gialos, it is worth a detour up the hill to the
looking the beach under giant tamarisk trees, signposted Spilia Tou Drakou (Cave of the Dragon;

MUSICAL SURPRISES
What’s Pavarotti’s old Bosendorfer grand piano doing in the southern resort of Makrigialos? It
was one way Norwegian-born businessman Gunnar Stromsholm showed he was serious about
hosting a world-class music festival in Crete. Since the first concert was held in the courtyard
of his villa, Case dei Mezzo, in 2004, the Casa dei Mezzo music festival (%28430 29183; www
.casadeimezzo-festival.com; tickets €10) has become an annual event, held in June, with leading pian-
ist and conductor Bryan Stanborough as patron and artistic director. Among the eclectic 2007
lineup was Japan’s foremost soprano Ranko Kurano performing Madame Butterfly. Performances
are held at several venues, including the original de Mezzo tower and Epavli – the nearby ruins
of a stunning Venetian mansion in the abandoned medieval village of Etia.
 206 S O U T H C OA S T • • M y r t o s lonelyplanet.com

ROUGHING IT
The primitive 300-year-old stone cottages at Aspros Potamos (%28430 51694; www.asprospotamos
.com; r €32-60) were traditionally used by farmers from the hillside village of Pefki during the winter.
Aspros Potamos is just above Makrigialos on the road to Pefki. Twenty years ago, Aleka Halkia
bought the abandoned ruins of the settlement and has slowly restored them in original style
as guesthouses for people wanting to go back to nature and simple living. An award-winning
eco-friendly photovoltaic system is used to heat water and power the bathroom light and fridge.
The 11 cottages are lit with oil lamps and candles, and have stone floors, traditional furnishings
and most have fireplaces for the winter. One has a bedroom built right into the rock face. Aleka
lives there year-round and runs them with her daughter Myrto, who has now moved to town for
some mod cons. It’s a few kilometres along the turn-off north to Pefki. It can be a little tricky to
find, so call ahead and they’ll meet you.
Just above Aspros Potamos you will come across the Stausa Workshop (%28430 51410) of
artisans Maria Palumbo and Makis Ladas, who live in their isolated stone cottage year-round
creating unique pieces from driftwood and other recycled natural materials. It is a pleasant walk
from Makrigialos or the road is signposted on the western side of the bridge.

%28430 51494). The cave is actually named lage ambience is Myrtos (myr-tos), 14km west
after the guy who runs the taverna below, of Ierapetra. It is popular with more mature
which has stunning sea views from the ter- travellers, many of whom have been com-
race and excellent food. Try the grilled lamb ing back for years. Myrtos has no big hotels,
cutlets (€8.50) or the local speciality nerati, a there’s a reasonable patch of beach, some de-
myzithra-and-fennel pie. cently priced places to stay and eat and some
interesting excursions in the area.
There is no post office or bank. Internet
MYRTOS ΜΥΡΤΟΣ access is available at Prima Travel (%28420 51035;
pop 425 www.sunbudget.net; per hr €3.50), which serves as the
One of the few places on this stretch of coast town’s quasi-tourist office and leads guided
that retains an element of authenticity and vil- walks around the area.

DETOUR: THE HINTERLAND

There is some great off-road exploring to be done in the mountains above Ierapetra and the
lesser-known misty Omalos Plateau if you have the right vehicle. But even in a conventional ve-
hicle (or on foot) you can see some relatively untrodden parts of Crete. There are several routes
LASITHI

to explore. Taking the scenic road northeast from Ierapetra, you pass the Bramiana Dam, a
manmade dam that has become a significant wetland for migratory birds. From above, you can
see the scale of the plastic greenhouses but then you enter a dramatic ever-changing mountain
landscapes, from barren rocky precipices to verdant forests. From the peak of the picturesque
village of Kalamafka, one of the narrowest and highest points on the island, you can see both
the north coast and the Libyan sea to the south.
South of Kalamafka is the heritage-protected, virtually abandoned village of Anatoli, which is being
restored thanks to EU funds. It has a remarkably preserved main street with original shopfronts, and at
the time of research a couple of guesthouses were opening in anticipation of the village’s revival.
Just outside Males is the tiny Agia Paraskevi chapel built into the rock face near a running
waterfall and café. The old-style taverna on the road below the chapel is run by an elderly couple
who just cook a bit extra for occasional passing guests, so there are only a few options (we had
the local speciality gardoumia – stomach wrapped in intestines).
At the foot of the superb Selekano forest, part of the E4 trail, is the tiny village of Selekano,
which was one of the last places in Crete to get power – in 2006. Until then the quaint Stella’s
kafeneio used to run on a wood oven and gas. Her shady vine canopy is a good place for a
break. There is a scenic drive back to Myrtos via Mythi.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H C OA S T • • M y r t o s 207

Myrtos’ small museum (%28420 51065; admission Cretan Rooms (%28420 51427; d €35) These
free; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) houses the private col- cosy, excellent traditional-styled rooms with
lection of a former teacher who sparked the balconies, fridges and shared kitchens are
archaeological digs in the area after finding popular with independent travellers. Owner
Minoan artefacts on field trips with students. Maria Daskalaki keeps them neat and clean.
The collection includes Vasiliki pottery from They are prominently signposted from the
the nearby Minoan sites of Fournou-Korifi and main street.
Pyrgos as well as an impressive model of the Hotel Myrtos (%28420 51227; www.myrtoshotel
Fournou-Korifi site exactly as it was found, .com; s/d/triple incl breakfast €30/35/40; a ) This
with all the pots and items in situ. superior C-class place in the middle of
The consensus on the waterfront taver- the main street has large, well-kept rooms
nas seems to be Taverna Akti for the daily with TV, phone, mini-bar and balconies.
specials, Manos at the eastern end for grilled Its taverna (mains €4 to €7) is popular with
meats and Beach on the west side for fresh both locals and tourists for its wide range of
fish and mezes. mezedes and mayirefta, which include many
Big Blue (%28420 51094; www.big-blue.gr; d/studio/ vegetarian dishes.
apt €35/60/75; a) On the western edge of town, Platanos (%28420 51363; mains €4.50-8) This
this is one of the best places to stay and is seems to be the heartbeat of the town for for-
handy for the beach. You have a choice of eigners. It’s a cosy place for a drink or dinner
more expensive, large airy studios with sea under a giant plane tree.
views, or cheaper, cosy ground-floor rooms. There are seven buses daily from Ierapetra
All have cooking facilities. to Myrtos (€1.60, 30 minutes).

LASITHI

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB 208

Directory
PRACTICALITIES
CONTENTS
„ Use the metric system for weights and
Accommodation 208 measures (see inside front cover for
Activities 210 conversion formulas).
Business Hours 210
Children 211 „ Plug your electrical appliances into a
Climate Chart 211 two-pin adaptor before plugging into
Courses 211 the electricity supply (220V AC, 50Hz).
Customs 211 „ The main English-language newspapers
Dangers & Annoyances 212 in Greece are the weekly Athens News
Discount Cards 212 and the eight-page English-language
Embassies & Consulates 212 section of the Greek daily Kathimerini,
Festivals & Events 213 published with the International Herald
Food 214 Tribune.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 214 „ The English and German newspaper
Holidays 214 Cretasummer is published monthly
Insurance 215 during the summer in Rethymno. The
Internet Access 215 monthly magazine Kreta is on sale in
Legal Matters 215 a variety of languages. Frappe is pub-
Maps 215 lished in Hania in German and English.
Money 215 Crete’s e-zine Stigmes (www.stigmes.gr) is
Photography & Video 216 also worth a look. Crete Gazette is a free
Post 216 monthly newsletter distributed at vari-
Shopping 217 ous outlets and is also available online
Solo Travellers 218 (www.cretegazette.com).
Telephone 218
„ You can often pick up CNN and the BBC
Time 218
on free-to-air TV, and cable is available
Toilets 218
at many hotels.
Tourist Information 219
Tourist Police 219 „ Greece uses the PAL video system,
Tours 219 which is incompatible with the North
Visas 219 American and Japanese NTSC system.
Travellers with Disabilities 219
Women Travellers 220
Work 220 The industry is subject to strict price con-
trols. By law, a notice must be displayed in
ACCOMMODATION every room (usually behind the door) stating
Crete has a wide range of places to stay to the category and the maximum price they
suit every taste and budget, from cheap, can charge that season. Generally the prices
ultra-basic rooms and well-equipped self- quoted in this book are these official high-
catering studios to traditional village houses season rates (or the higher end of what you
and super-luxury resorts. Crete still offers are likely to pay, as many places never charge
good value accommodation compared to the official rates), but outside the peak July
other islands, with the south and the inland and August period there is often plenty of
villages being significantly cheaper than the room for negotiation, especially for longer
north coast. Outside July and August you stays. Spring and autumn are good times to
can pretty much turn up and find accom- test your bargaining skills.
modation, but booking is advisable at the A mandatory charge of 20% extra is levied
peak of summer. if an extra bed is put into a room.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 209

DIRECTORY
Some domatia owners charge extra for air- little more than spare rooms in the family
conditioning. This is only permissible if the home that were rented out to travellers, which
total price is not higher than the advertised made for very cheap holidays. Nowadays most
maximum (which should include air-con). are purpose built, and simple (and cheap)
Rip-offs do occasionally occur so, if you older-style basic lodgings are becoming rarer
suspect you’ve been exploited, report it to as many have been upgraded into ‘studios’
either the tourist police or regular police. and come complete with well-equipped
Many accommodation proprietors will kitchenettes, TVs and air-con. They remain
want to keep your passport during your a popular option for budget travellers and are
stay. However, this is not a compulsory re- often far more appealing (and sometimes bet-
quirement – they only need it to take down ter equipped) than many bland, impersonal
the details. midrange hotels.
Domatia are rated under a ‘key’ system,
Camping which determines what owners can charge.
There are only about a dozen or so camp- Standards of cleanliness are generally high.
ing grounds in Crete. Most are privately run, The décor runs the gamut from cool grey
very few are open outside the summer high marble floors, coordinated pine furniture,
season, and the quality is patchy. Most have pretty lace curtains and tasteful pictures on
an attached taverna and some more upmarket the walls, to outright spartan.
complexes have pools and their own caravans Expect to pay from €20 to €30 for a single,
and tents for hire. and €30 to €50 for a double, depending on
The Panhellenic Camping Association (%/fax facilities, the season and how long you plan
21036 21560; www.panhellenic-camping-union.gr; Solonos to stay.
102, Athens) website has lists of their member Some domatia have solar-heated water,
camp sites and facilities. A free booklet on which means hot water is not guaranteed,
Camping in Greece is also published an- though this is rarely a problem. Most operate
nually by the Greek national tourist office, only between April and October.
Ellinikos Organismos Tourismou (EOT) –
known abroad as the Greek National Tourism Hostels
Organisation (GNTO). There are official youth hostels in Rethymno,
Camping fees are highest from mid-June Plakias and Iraklio, as well as a few hotels
to the end of August. Most camping grounds operating as unofficial hostels. The Rethymno
charge from €4 to €6 per adult. Children and Plakias hostels are well-run and sociable
under 12 are normally charged half price and places, with decent facilities.
students get a discount. There’s no charge for Hostel rates vary from €7 to €15 and you
children aged under four. Tent sites cost from don’t have to be a member to stay in any of
€3 to €6 per night, depending on size. Caravan them.
sites start at around €8.
Between May and mid-September it is Hotels & Resorts
warm enough to sleep out under the stars, Crete has some of the best resort hotels in
although you will still need a lightweight Greece, including some elite spa-hotel devel-
sleeping bag to counter the pre-dawn chill. opments, but standards vary dramatically.
It’s a good idea to have a foam pad to lie on While most of the top hotels are world class
and a waterproof cover to protect your sleep- and have all the expected amenities, some
ing bag. midrange hotels are little better than domatia.
Free (wild) camping is illegal, but the law There are some smart boutique-style hotels in
is not always strictly enforced and some areas the major cities, while Hania and Rethymno
are more tolerant and renowned for it, espe- have many atmospheric guesthouses in su-
cially along the south coast. It is wise to ask perbly restored Venetian mansions or historic
around. buildings.
The official classification system in Greece
Domatia has changed from the old letter grading (A–E,
Domatia are the Greek equivalent of the Brit- plus L for deluxe categories) to a more inter-
ish B&B, minus the breakfast. Once upon a national star-rating system with much higher
time domatia (also called pensions) comprised standards. What might have qualified as an
DIRECTORY 210 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com

A-class hotel under the old system is prob- have gone for the mid- to higher-end market.
ably three-star under the new guidelines. Ho- There are also places where you can stay on
tels built since 2002 meet the new criteria, farms or rural estates.
but most existing hotels were automatically Some of the more established examples are
switched over to the star-rating (L – five stars, at Vamos (p119) and the eco-lodges at Milia
A – four stars, B – three stars, C – two stars, (p115) and near Markigialos in the south
D and E – one star). Greek hotels are now in (p206). Traditional features such as fireplaces,
a transitional stage as the slow process of in- stone kitchens and traditional rustic furnish-
specting all hotels to ensure they comply with ings provide an atmospheric experience. A
their classification is still under way. traditional house for two to four people in
Overall, quality of hotels and service in Vamos will cost around €75 to €120, while a
Crete varies dramatically and often irrespec- small stone cottage for two in Milia will cost
tive of price. Expect to pay about €60 – 70 for around €65 to €70.
a double in a two-star hotel in Iraklio and Check out www.agrotravel.gr for a list of
about €80 – 120 per double in a three-star. villas and traditional-style homes.
There has been a shift towards all-inclusive In recent years there has been a prolifera-
holiday packages in many of the hotels, which tion of new villa developments and restored
are booked by tour operators and not very ap- historic houses across Crete for people want-
pealing to independent travellers. Many hotels ing to rent an idyllic private place for a week
offer significant internet discounts. or more. Most of these are in the high end of
the market and are rented through foreign
Mountain Refuges companies.
Mountain refuges are not plentiful on Crete
but there are some lodges scattered around ACTIVITIES
the Lefka Ori, Mt Psiloritis and Mt Ditki Crete’s adventurous terrain lends itself to a
run by the mountaineering clubs in the re- host of activities for the more active traveller.
gion. A bunk bed will cost around €13 for For the full lowdown see the Crete Outdoors
non members. Further information can be chapter (p70).
obtained from the mountaineering clubs
(p74) and are listed in www.crete.tournet BUSINESS HOURS
.gr/outdoor/shelters-en.jsp. Banks are open from 8am to 2.30pm Monday
to Thursday, and 8am to 2pm Friday.
Studios & Apartments Post offices are open 7.30am to 2pm Mon-
Self-catering studios or apartments are a day to Friday. In the major cities the main post
popular option for travellers on longer stays, office stays open until 8pm, and opens from
or families. Studios are usually two-person 8am to 2pm on Saturday.
affairs, while apartments can normally ac- In summer, shops are open 9am to 2pm
commodate two to five people. Facilities and 5.30pm to 8.30pm Tuesday, Thurs-
usually include a kitchenette, fridge and TV, day and Friday, and 8am to 3pm Monday,
and many include air-conditioning, heating Wednesday and Saturday. They open 30 min-
for winter, a separate lounge area, separate utes later in winter, although these times are
bedrooms and occasionally washing facilities not always strictly adhered to. Many shops
and microwave ovens. Costs for a studio in in tourist areas are open seven days a week
high season range from €35 to €60 while an until 11pm. Periptera (street kiosks) open
apartment for four people in high season will
cost between €50 and €80.
BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE
Traditional Houses, Eco-Lodges & Villas For more accommodation reviews and rec-
Many historic houses and lovely stone cot- ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
tages across Crete have been restored and con- check out the online booking service at
verted into fine accommodation, from rustic www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true,
studios to upmarket villas with private pools. insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
EU funding for restoration of old villages with Reviews are thorough and independent.
buildings of architectural merit has spawned Best of all, you can book online.
many new rural developments, though most
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C h i l d re n 211

DIRECTORY
from early morning until late at night and Jyotsna Sreenivasen and Sim Gellman, is a
sell everything from bus tickets and cigarettes modern-day story based in Crete, written for
to condoms. Supermarkets are generally open young girls but with a mature message.
until 8pm.
Opening times of museums and archaeo- CLIMATE CHART
logical sites vary, depending on when extra Crete has a typically Mediterranean climate
staff are hired to cover afternoon shifts. Check with hot, dry summers and milder winters. You
if you plan to visit after 3pm. Most sites are can comfortably swim off the island’s southern
closed on Monday. coast from mid-April to November.

CHILDREN CRETE (IRAKLIO) 39m (128ft)

Average
Max/Min

Crete is a safe and relatively easy place to travel °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm

with children, especially easy if you’re staying 40 104 8 200

by the beach or at a resort hotel. Greeks love 30 86 150

5
kids, to the point of spoiling them, so they are
normally welcome everywhere. Greek children 20 68 4 100

join their parents at tavernas or play happily

10 50
outside in the squares or streets at night in 2 50

keeping with the local late routine. 0 32 0 0

J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
There is a shortage of decent playgrounds
and recreational facilities across the island.
However, there are air-conditioned indoor COURSES
children’s play centres for children in most The University of Crete (%28310 77278; www.philology
major cities if you want a respite from the .uoc.gr) in Rethymno runs four-week summer
heat. courses in Modern Greek for foreigners dur-
Don’t be afraid to take children to ancient ing July. Classes are in the mornings and cater
sites. Many parents are surprised by how for beginners to advanced level. Contact the
much children enjoy them. university for full details.
Hotels and restaurants are usually very ac- UK-based YOGA Plus (%+44 1273-276175; www
commodating when it comes to meeting the .yogaplus.co.uk) runs Astanga Vinyasa yoga work-
needs of children, although highchairs are a shops for one week or longer at its retreat in
rarity outside resorts. The service in tavernas Agios Pavlos. The courses include accom-
is normally very quick, which is great when modation, other activities and wholesome
you’ve got hungry kids on your hands. food. The nearby Triopetra Yoga Centre (www
Fresh milk is readily available in large towns .astanga.gr) also runs courses from beginners to
and tourist areas, but harder to find in small advanced levels.
villages. Formula is available everywhere. Workshops in Cretan cuisine are offered in
Mobility is an issue for parents with very around Crete (see p63 for details).
small children. Strollers (pushchairs) aren’t UK-based World Spirit (www.worldspirit.org
much use in Crete unless you’re going to .uk) organises a writing and poetry course in
spend all your time in one of the few flat the southern village of Loutro in June and
spots. They’re hopeless on rough stone paths September.
and up steps, and a curse when getting on
and off buses and ferries. Backpacks or front CUSTOMS
pouches are best. There are no longer duty-free restrictions or
Children under four travel free on ferries sales within the EU. Random and cursory
and buses. They pay half fare up to the age of customs searches are still made for drugs.
10 (ferries) and 12 (buses); the full fare applies You can bring an unlimited amount of for-
otherwise. On domestic flights, you’ll pay 10% eign currency into Greece but you can only
of the fare to have a child under two sitting on leave with US$2500 cash (or equivalent). Any
your knee. Kids aged two to 12 pay half fare. more must be in a bank cheque or money
The Greek publisher Malliaris-Paedia pro- order. Exporting antiquities (anything over
duces a good series of books on Greek myths, 100 years old) is strictly forbidden without
retold in English for young readers by Aris- a permit. It is an offence to remove even the
tides Kesopoulos. The Moon Over Crete, by smallest article from an archaeological site.
DIRECTORY 212 D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com

Non-EU residents can bring 200 cigarettes EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

or 50 cigars; 1L of spirits or 2L of wine; 50g of Remember that you are bound by Greek laws.
perfume; 250mL of eau de Cologne and gifts Your embassy will not be sympathetic if you
with a value of up to €175. end up in jail after committing a crime lo-
Importation of works of art and antiquities cally, even if such actions are legal in your
is free, but they must be declared on entry, so own country.
you can take them with you. In genuine emergencies you might get some
Importing codeine-based medication is il- assistance, but only if other channels have been
legal without a doctor’s certificate and it is exhausted. If you need to get home urgently,
wise to have a doctor’s certificate if you are a free ticket is highly unlikely – the embassy
taking any medication. Dogs and cats must would expect you to have insurance. If you
have a vet’s certificate. have all your money and documents stolen, it
will assist with getting a new passport.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Crime, especially theft, is low in Crete but Greek Embassies & Consulates
keep track of your valuables on public trans- Some Greek diplomatic missions abroad:
port and in markets. Do not leave luggage Australia (%02-6273 3011; greekemb@greekembassy
unattended in cars. The vast majority of thefts -au.org; 9 Turrana St, Yarralumla, ACT 2600)
from tourists are still committed by other Canada (%613-238-6271; www.greekembassy.ca;
tourists; the biggest danger of theft is probably 76-80 Maclaren St, Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0K6)
in hostels and at camping grounds. If you are Japan (%03-3403 0871/2; www.greekemb.jp; 3-16-30
staying in a hotel room, and the windows and Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 304-5853)
door do not lock securely, ask for your valu- New Zealand (%04-473 7775; [email protected]; 5-7
ables to be locked in the hotel safe. Willeston St, Wellington)
South Africa (%12-430 7351; [email protected];
DISCOUNT CARDS 1003 Church St, Hatfield, Pretoria 0028)
Senior Cards UK (%020-7229 3850; www.greekembassy.org.uk; 1A
Card-carrying EU pensioners can claim a Holland Park, London W11 3TP)
range of benefits such as reduced admission USA (%202-939-1300; www.greekembassy.org; 2221
charges at museums and ancient sites and Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008)
discounts on trains.
Embassies & Consulates in Greece
Student & Youth Cards The UK embassy (%2810 224 012; Papalexandrou 16) in
The most widely recognised form of student Iraklio is the only foreign embassy in Crete.
ID is the International Student Identity Card (ISIC; The rest are in Athens and its suburbs.
www.isic.org). These cards are widely available Australia (%210 870 4000; Kifisias 1, Ambelokipi)
from budget travel agencies (take along proof Canada (%210 727 3400; Genadiou 4, Evangelismos)
that you are a student). Holders qualify for Cyprus (%210 723 7883; Irodotou 16, 10675)
half-price admission to some museums and Ireland (%210 723 2771; Leoforos Vasileos Konstanti-
ancient sites. There are no travel agencies nou 7, 10674)
authorised to issue ISICs in Crete, so arrange Japan (%210 670 9900; Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri)
for one before leaving home or get one in Netherlands (%210 723 9701; Vasileos Konstantinou
Athens from the International Student & Youth 5-7, 10674)
Travel Service (ISYTS; %210 323 3767; 2nd fl, Nikis 11,
Athens).
Some travel agencies in Greece offer stu- COPIES
dent discounts on organised tours. Olympic All important documents (passport data
Airways gives a 25% student discount on do- page and visa page, credit cards, travel in-
mestic flights that are part of an international surance policy, air/bus/train tickets, driving
flight. licence etc) should be photocopied before
If you are under 26 years of age but not you leave home. Leave one copy with some-
a student, the Federation of International Youth one at home and keep another with you,
Travel Organisation (FIYTO; www.fiyto.org) card gives separate from the originals.
similar discounts. Many budget travel agen-
cies issue FIYTO cards.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 213

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New Zealand (%210 692 4136; Kifisias 76, Ambelokipi) marked the start of the War of Independence. Independ-
South Africa (%210 680 6645; Kifisias 60, Marousi, ence Day coincides with the Feast of the Annunciation, so it
15125) is also a religious festival.
USA (%210 721 2951; Vasilissis Sofias 91, Ambelokipi)
March/April
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Easter The most important religious holiday in Greece
The Greek year is a succession of festivals is Easter (which most years fall at a different time to
and events, some of which are religious, some non-Orthodox Easter because the date is calculated using
cultural, others an excuse for a good feast, and a different formula and calendar). On Palm Sunday (the
most a combination of all three. The following Sunday before Easter), worshippers return from church
is by no means an exhaustive list, but it cov- services with a cross woven of palm and myrtle. If you are
ers the most important events, both national in Crete at Easter you should endeavour to attend some of
and regional. If you’re in the right place at the Easter services, which include a candle-lit procession
the right time, you’ll certainly be welcome to through the streets on Good Friday evening and fireworks
join the revelry. at midnight on Easter Saturday.
In summer, cultural festivals are staged Feast of Agios Yiorgos (St George) The feast day of St
across Crete. The most significant include George, patron saint of Crete and of shepherds, takes place
the annual Renaissance Festival in Rethymno on 23 April or the Tuesday following Easter (whichever
(p126), which features art exhibitions, plus comes first). The most elaborate celebration is in Asi Gonia,
dance, drama and films, and the Kyrvia Festival where thousands of goats and sheep are gathered at the
in Ierapetra (p203), which includes a range of town church for shearing, milking and blessing. Fresh milk
musical, theatrical and artistic presentations. accompanies the ensuing feast.
Iraklio’s Summer Arts Festival (p154) runs Hohliovradia (Snail Night) Vamos celebrates the popu-
from July to September and attracts inter- lar Cretan delicacy with a festival of cooked snails, washed
national artists as well as local singers and down with wine and tsikoudia (a grape distilled spirit).
dancers, while the Lato Cultural Festival in
Agios Nikolaos (p183) features traditional May
and modern works performed by local and May Day On the first day of May there is a mass exodus
international orchestras and dance troupes. from towns to the country. During picnics, wildflowers are
Sitia’s Kornaria Festival (p195) presents music, gathered and made into wreaths to decorate houses.
theatre, art exhibits and a beach volleyball Battle of Crete During the last week of May, the island
competition. commemorates the Battle of Crete with athletic com-
petitions, folk dancing and ceremonial events in Hania,
January Rethymno, Iraklio and key battle memorials at Souda Bay,
Feast of Agios Vasilios (St Basil) The year kicks off Stavronas and Preveli monastery. Representatives of Com-
with the New Year’s Day festival. A church ceremony is monwealth countries attend the ceremonies each year.
followed by the exchanging of gifts, singing, dancing and
feasting; the vasilopita (New Year pie) is cut and the person June
who gets the slice containing a coin will supposedly have Navy Week Celebrated during the last week in June in
a lucky year. even-numbered years, it commemorates Crete’s relation-
Epiphany (the Blessing of the Waters) On 6 January, ship with the sea. In Crete’s harbour cities there is music
Christ’s baptism by St John is celebrated throughout and dancing on land and swimming and sailing competi-
Greece. Seas, lakes and rivers are blessed and crosses are tions on the water.
thrown into the water. The brave soul who retrieves the Feast of St John the Baptist This feast day on 24 June
cross is blessed for the year. is widely celebrated. Wreaths made on May Day are kept
until this day, when they are burned on bonfires.
February/March Casa dei Mezzo Music Festival Classical, Cretan and
Shrove Monday (Clean Monday) On the first day of world music in Makrigialos.
Lent, people take to the hills throughout Greece to have
picnics and fly kites. July
Feast of Agia Marina (St Marina) Celebrated on 17
March July in many parts of the island, this feast day is a particu-
Independence Day The anniversary of the hoisting of larly important event in Agia Marina, outside Hania.
the Greek flag at Moni Agias Lavras in the Peloponnese Feast of Profitis Ilias Celebrated on 20 July at hill-top
is celebrated on 25 March with parades and dancing. It churches and monasteries dedicated to the prophet.
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Wine Festival This Rethymno festival is held in the one is offered roasted chestnuts, chestnut sweets and
municipal park with wine tastings and local cuisine. tsikoudia.
Yakinthia Festival The mountain village of Anogia Ohi (No) Day Metaxas’ refusal to allow Mussolini’s troops
stages an annual week-long cultural and musical extrava- free passage through Crete during WWII is commemorated
ganza in the last week of July. There are poetry recitals, on 28 October with a number of remembrance services,
talks, exhibitions and outdoor concerts featuring Cretan military parades, folk dancing and feasting.
music.
Renaissance Festival Rethymno’s main festival is held November
during July to September, and features performances by Anniversary of the Explosion at Moni Arkadiou
Greece’s leading theatre companies, as well as dance, This is one of the most important holidays in Crete, com-
music and acts from around Europe. memorated at the monastery from 7 to 9 November.
Summer Arts Festival International guest orchestras
and dance troupes as well as local talent appear in Iraklio December
from July to September, with the main events held in an Christmas Day Although not as important as Easter,
immense open-air theatre. Christmas is still celebrated with religious services and
feasting. Nowadays much Western influence is apparent,
July/August including Christmas trees, decorations and presents.
Kornaria Festival In Sitia, this festival runs from
mid-July to the end of August, with concerts, folk dancing FOOD
and theatre productions staged in the kazarma (fort) and For information on Greek and Cretan cuisine,
other venues. see p55. For large cities and towns, restaurant
Lato Cultural Festival Agios Nikolaos hosts this festival, listings in this book are divided into budget
which includes concerts by local and international musi- (under €15), midrange (€15 to €24) and top
cians, Cretan music played on traditional instruments, folk end (over €24) for two courses. Note that the
dancing, mandinades (improvised rhyming couplets) con- separate ‘cover’ charge that used to be added
tests, theatre, art exhibitions and swimming competitions. to the bill for each person no longer applies,
Kyrvia Festival Ierapetra’s main festival includes though some places still charge for bread.
concerts, plays and art exhibitions.
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
August While there is no legislation against homosex-
Wine Festival In Arhanes, 15 August is the merry ual activity in Greece, it is wise to be discreet
conclusion of a five-day festival celebrating the excellent and to avoid public displays of togetherness.
local wine. Unlike islands such as gay-friendly
Assumption Day Greeks celebrate Assumption Day (15 Mykonos, Crete does not have a thriving gay
August) with family reunions. This prompts the big annual scene. Homosexuality is generally frowned
summer exodus, so it’s wise to avoid public transport in upon and there is no overtly gay nightlife.
the days before and after. A number of venues in Iraklio are quietly
Traditional Cretan Wedding In late August, the village gay-friendly, as are relaxed resorts such as
of Kritsa puts on a traditional Cretan wedding complete Paleohora and most nude beaches.
with songs, dancing, traditional food (and a happy couple). The Spartacus International Gay Guide
Sultana Festival Sitia celebrates its superior sultana (Bruno Gmunder, Berlin) is widely re-
raisins with wine, music and dancing in the last week of garded as the leading authority on the gay
the month. travel scene and has a wealth of information
Potato Festival Lasithi produces superior potatoes, a on gay venues around the Greek Islands.
product which is celebrated in a three-day festival at the There’s some information on Crete on www
end of August in Tzermiado. .gaygreece.gr, as well as limited English sec-
tions on www.gay.gr and www.lesbian.gr.
September
Genisis tis Panagias (the Virgin’s Birthday) Cel- HOLIDAYS
ebrated on 8 September throughout Greece with various All banks and shops and most museums and
religious services and feasting. ancient sites close on public holidays.
Greek national public holidays observed
October in Crete:
Chestnut Festival The village of Elos stages a chestnut New Year’s Day 1 January
festival on the third Sunday of the month, when every- Epiphany 6 January
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First Sunday in Lent February MAPS
Greek Independence Day 25 March Mapping is an important feature of this guide.
Good Friday March/April Unless you are going to trek or drive, you
(Orthodox) Easter Sunday March/April probably won’t need additional maps. Do not
Spring Festival/Labour Day 1 May rely on the free maps handed out by tour-
Feast of the Assumption 15 August ist offices, which are often out of date and
Ohi Day 28 October not particularly accurate. The maps below
Christmas Day 25 December are widely available in bookshops and tourist
St Stephen’s Day 26 December shops in Crete.
Excellent up-to-date road and hiking maps
INSURANCE published by Anavasi (%210 321 8104; www.anavasi.gr)
It’s wise to have travel insurance to cover theft, are GPS compatible. Anavasi has three separate
loss and medical problems. Be aware that road maps covering Crete – Hania, Rethymno
some policies specifically exclude dangerous and Iraklio, and Lasithi – at a scale of 1:100,000
activities such as scuba diving, motorcycling, (€7.50). It has also produced the most accurate
even trekking. Check that the policy covers walking maps at a scale of 1:25,000 for the Lefka
ambulances or an emergency flight home. Ori (Sfakia and Pahnes), Samaria/Sougia, Mt
You may prefer a policy that pays doc- Psiloritis and Zakros-Vai.
tors or hospitals directly rather than you Road Editions (%210 364 0723; www.road.gr)
having to pay on the spot and claim later. produces the comprehensive 1:200,000 blue-
If you have to claim later, ensure you keep covered Crete map (€6), which has handy
all documentation. maps of the major cities. There are also dedi-
cated 1:100,000 Eastern Crete and Western
INTERNET ACCESS Crete maps (€8).
Crete has a reasonable number of internet Iraklio-based trekker Giorgos Petrakis of
cafés in major towns and tourist resorts Petrakis Editions (%2810 282630; €5) has produced
and, apart from more remote areas, most trekking and road maps for each of the four
are gradually using broadband. Access costs prefectures at a scale of 1:100,000. They in-
range from €2 to €4 per hour. Many larger clude the E4 trail and all the mountainous
hotels also offer high-speed internet access, routes of Crete, and are widely available on
while some towns such as Agios Nikolaos the island.
have free wireless hot spots downtown The German-published Harms Verlag
(Sitia and Ierapetra were about to follow (%07275 8201; www.harms-ic-verlag.de) 1:100,000
suit at the time of writing). Travellers with Kreta Touristikkarte maps cover the east (Der
their own laptops or personal organisers Osten) and the west (Der Westen) of Crete.
can arrange internet roaming with their
local ISP. You can also buy prepaid inter- MONEY
net cards from periptera (kiosks) from €3 The unit of currency in Greece is the euro (€).
to €20. Coins come in denominations of one, two,
If you need to access a specific account, five, 10, 20, and 50 cents. Banknotes come in
rather than web-based email such as Yahoo €5, €10, €20, €50, €100 and €500.
or Hotmail, you’ll need to know your in-
coming (POP or IMAP) mail server name. ATMs
You should then be able to access your email There are ATMs in almost every town large
from anywhere in the world. enough to support a bank – and certainly in
Travellers from the UK must have an all the tourist areas. If you’ve got MasterCard
adaptor for the modem line as the phone or Visa/Access, there are plenty of places to
jack in Greece is different. withdraw money. Cirrus, Plus and Maestro
users can make withdrawals in all major towns
LEGAL MATTERS and tourist areas.
Greek drug laws are the strictest in Europe. AFEMs (Automatic Foreign Exchange
Greek courts make no distinction between Machines) are common in major tourist
possession and pushing. Possession of even areas. They take all the major European
a small amount of marijuana is likely to land currencies, Australian and US dollars and
you in jail. Japanese yen.
DIRECTORY 216 D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y & V i d e o lonelyplanet.com

Cash widely accepted and have efficient replace-

Nothing beats cash for convenience, but if you ment policies. Maintaining a record of the
lose any it’s gone for good, and very few travel cheque numbers and recording when you
insurers will come to your rescue. Those who use them is vital for replacing lost cheques.
do normally limit the amount to about $300. It’s Keep this record separate from the cheques
best to carry no more cash than you need for the themselves.
next few days. It’s also a good idea to set aside a
small amount of cash as an emergency stash. PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
Film & Equipment
Credit Cards Most major brands and types of film are widely
The main credit cards – MasterCard and Visa – available, and many stores in main towns and
are widely accepted in Crete. American Express tourist areas do digital printing or can burn
and Diners Club charge cards are accepted in photos to CD or transfer to USB drive. Most
tourist areas, but unheard of elsewhere. places charge from €0.15 to €0.19 per digital
Big hotels and some midrange places accept print and around €8.50 for a 36-print film roll.
credit cards, but budget hotels and domatia do Greece uses the PAL video system, which is
not. Likewise, upmarket shops and restaurants incompatible with the North American and
accept plastic but village tavernas and small Japanese NTSC and the French Secam, unless
shops don’t. you have a multisystem machine.

Moneychangers Restrictions
Banks will exchange all major currencies in ei- Never photograph a military installation or
ther cash, travellers cheques or Euro-cheques. anything else that has a sign forbidding photo-
A passport is required to change travellers graphy. The plight of the jailed British plane
cheques, but not always for cash. spotters in 2001 should come as a warning
Commission charged on the exchange of that Greek authorities take these matters seri-
banknotes is less than for travellers cheques ously. Flash photography is not allowed inside
(some banks charge €2 per cheque, regardless churches, and it’s considered taboo to photo-
of the amount). Post offices can exchange graph the main altar. Cretans usually love having
banknotes – but not travellers cheques – and their photos taken, but always ask permission
charge less commission than banks. Travel first. The same goes for video cameras.
agencies and hotels often change money and
travellers cheques at bank rates, but commis- POST
sion charges are higher. Tahydromia (post offices) are easily identi-
fiable by the blue and yellow signs outside.
Tipping Normal post boxes are also yellow, with red
In restaurants the service charge is included in boxes for express mail.
the bill, but it is customary to leave a small tip or
at least round off the bill. Likewise for taxis – a Postal Rates
small amount is expected and appreciated. The postal rate for postcards and airmail letters
Bargaining is not widespread in shops in to destinations within the EU is €0.65 for up to
Crete, though it can be effective in souvenir 20g and €1 for up to 50g. To other destinations
shops and markets – walking away often gets the rate is €0.65 for up to 20g and €1.60 for up
results. to 100g. Post within Europe takes four to five
It is worth haggling over the price of ac- days; to the USA, Australia and New Zealand
commodation, especially if you intend to stay takes five to eight days. Some tourist shops also
a few days. You may get short shrift in peak sell stamps, but with a 10% surcharge.
season, but prices can drop dramatically at Express mail costs €2.85 and should ensure
other times delivery in three days within the EU – use the
special red post boxes. Valuables should be sent
Travellers Cheques by registered post, which costs an extra €1.
Travellers cheques are losing popularity as
more and more people opt to withdraw cash Receiving Mail
from ATMs as they go along. American Ex- You can receive mail poste restante (general
press, Visa and Thomas Cook cheques are all delivery) at any main post office. The service
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • S h o p p i n g 217

DIRECTORY
is free, but you must have your passport. Ask many of the items on sale are mass-produced
senders to write your family name in capital in Hong Kong or Indonesia. Check the origin
letters on the envelope and underline it, and of the item carefully before buying. Weaving
to mark the envelope ‘poste restante’. If let- shops in Hania or lace stores in Gavalohori
ters you are expecting cannot be located, ask (p120) can usually be relied upon to provide
the post office clerk to check under your first the genuine article.
name as well.
After one month, uncollected mail is re- Antiques
turned to the sender. If you are about to leave It is illegal to buy, sell, possess or export
a town and expected mail hasn’t arrived, ask any antiquity in Crete (see Customs, p211).
the post office to forward it to your next des- However, there are antiques and ‘antiques’;
tination, c/o poste restante. a lot of items only a century or two old are
Parcels are not delivered; they must be col- regarded as junk, rather than part of the na-
lected from the post office. tional heritage. These items include hand-
made furniture and odds and ends from
Sending Mail rural areas, ecclesiastical ornaments from
It is usually advisable not to wrap a parcel churches and items brought back from far-
before you post it – the post office may (but flung lands. Do check with the dealer you’re
not always) wish to inspect the contents. In buying from.
Iraklio, take your parcel to the central post of-
fice on Plateia Daskalogianni; elsewhere, take Ceramics
it to the parcel counter of any post office. Post You will see ceramic objects of every shape
offices usually only have small boxes for sale, and size – functional and ornamental – for
so if you need a large box to ship stuff home sale throughout Crete.
supermarkets are your best bet (go early or The main pottery centres are in Margarites
ask them to keep some for you). (p134), which has its distinctive designs and
motifs, and in Thrapsano (p165), famous for
SHOPPING its giant pitharia (urns). Some more contem-
Crete has a long tradition of artisanship. Ce- porary artisans use ancient Greek firing and
ramics, handmade leather goods, woven rugs, glazing techniques (see Carmela, p88) to cre-
icons, embroidered linen and finely wrought ate unique designs.
silver and gold jewellery fill shops in all the The most commonly found Cretan ceram-
tourist centres. In addition to crafted objects ics are distinguishable for the shiny dark-blue
there are also Cretan wild herbs, olive oil, wine, glaze, which should be hard enough not to be
sweet fruit preserves, cheeses, olives and other scratch by the blade of a knife; a glazed bottom
edible souvenirs. Do check if you’re allowed is the best sign of machine-made pottery.
to take these food items into the next country
you’re travelling to. Jewellery
Most of the products available in the ubiq- Greek designers produce exquisite jewellery
uitous souvenir shops are mass-produced. sold in select stores throughout Crete. Some
Although they can still offer good value, it’s local artisans can be seen in their studios, es-
worthwhile to seek out special shops that offer pecially in Hania. You’ll find more original and
authentic Cretan goods. unusual pieces in silver than gold. For more
Of all the large towns, you’ll find the best traditional designs, look for replicas of Minoan
selection of crafts at Hania where, in the objects such as the Phaestos disk, which are
streets behind the harbour, inspired artisans well crafted and available only in Crete.
produce Crete’s most artful leather, jewellery,
ceramics and rugs. Knives
Rethymno has a few good craft places, while Cretans are rightly proud of their distinctive,
Iraklio has more high-end designer and main- hand-crafted knives with rams-horn handles
stream shops for clothing and other goods. and heat-forged, razor-sharp blades. You’ll
Several villages in the interior are known see them on sale in many tourist centres, but
for their crafts. Theoretically, you can get few of them are made the old-fashioned way
good buys on linen and embroidery in Anogia and, while they may look good, they don’t
and Kritsa. However, take note – these days always cut the mustard.
DIRECTORY 218 D I R E C T O R Y • • S o l o T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com

Leather Work tional and long distance calls – usually in a

Most of the leather is hard rather than sup- shop, kafeneio (coffee house) or taverna.
ple, but it’s fairly priced nonetheless. Dura- For reverse-charge (collect) calls, dial the
ble bags, wallets, shoes and boots are best operator (domestic %129; international
bought on ‘leather lane’ in Hania (p87). In %139) to get the number in the country
Rethymno you will find several shops that you wish to call.
sell excellent leather goods, including the To call overseas direct, dial the access code
Silverhorse (p129). (%00), followed by the appropriate country
code.
Weaving
You will see many woven rugs and wall Mobile Phones
hangings for sale all over Crete. While these Greece uses the same GSM system as most
may look good and even be of a reason- EU countries, Asia and Australia. You must
able quality, much of the product on sale activate global roaming through your pro-
is machine-made in Crete or, worse still, vider before you leave, although the charges
in Asia. For really genuine articles that you can be hefty.
can see being woven, look in Hania’s Old Greece’s three mobile phone service pro-
Town (see p87). viders – Vodafone, Cosmote and Wind – offer
prepaid local SIM cards with your own Greek
mobile number. These automatically revert
SOLO TRAVELLERS to global roaming when you leave Greece
Crete is generally a safe, friendly and hos- and can be used to send and receive SMS
pitable place and you will have no problem messages.
travelling alone. It is common to see solo Cosmote tends to have the best coverage
travellers backpacking through the island in the more remote areas, so try re-tuning
and you will no doubt hook up with others your phone to Cosmote if you find coverage
if you are staying at hostels, which is the patchy.
best option for solo travellers. Most hotels American and Canadian mobile (cell)
or domatia will knock 20% off the double phone users will not be able to use their
room rate. handsets in Greece unless they are dual- or
In general, use common sense when trav- tri-band.
elling. Avoid dark streets and parks at night,
particularly in the major cities, and ensure TIME
your valuables are safely stored. Greece is two hours ahead of GMT/UTC and
three hours ahead on daylight-saving time,
TELEPHONE which begins on the last Sunday in March
The Greek telephone service is maintained when clocks are put forward one hour. Day-
by the partly privatised public corporation light saving ends on the last Sunday in Sep-
known as OTE (pronounced o-tay; Organ- tember.
ismos Tilepikinonion Elladas). The system is
modern and efficient. Public telephones take TOILETS
phonecards, which cost €3 for 100 units, One peculiarity of the Greek plumbing system
and are widely available at periptera, corner is that it can’t handle toilet paper – appar-
shops and tourist shops; cards for higher ently the pipes are too narrow, or at least most
amounts can be bought at OTE offices. places are paranoid about blockages. Toilet
All phones take international calls. The ‘i’ paper etc should be placed in the small bin
button brings up the operating instructions provided.
in English. Don’t remove your card before Very occasionally outside the big towns you
you are told to do so or you could wipe out might come across Asian-style squat toilets
the remaining credit. Local calls cost one in older houses, kafeneia (coffee houses) and
unit per minute. public toilets.
You can also buy a range of prepaid inter- Public toilets are rare, except at airports
national calling cards (hronokarta). and bus and train stations. Cafés are the best
Villages and remote islands almost always option if you get caught short, but you may be
have at least one metered phone for interna- expected to buy something for the privilege.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • T o u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n 219

DIRECTORY
tors struggle to fill charter flights and block-
USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS booked hotel rooms. Most of the offerings are
Directory inquiries %11888 for large resorts along the northern coast. For
from a mobile phone %11831 a less industrialised holiday experience, try
Greece country code %30 one of the following companies:
International access code %00 Diktynna Travel (%28210 41458; www.diktynna
International directory -travel.gr; Arhontaki 6, Hania, Greece)
inquiries/reverse charges %139 Pure Crete (%020-8760 0879; www.pure-crete.com;
79 George Street, Croydon, Surrey CRO 1LD, UK)
Simply Crete (%020-8541 2201; www.simplytravel
Toll-Free 24-Hour Emergency .com; Kings Place, Wood St, Kingston upon Thames, Surrey
Numbers KT1 1SG, UK)
Ambulance %166
Fire Brigade %199 VISAS
Forestry Fire Service %191 Countries whose citizens can stay in Greece
Police %100 for up to three months without a visa include
Roadside Assistance (ELPA) %10400 Australia, Canada, all EU countries, Iceland,
Tourist Police %171 Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, Switzer-
land and the USA. Others include Cyprus,
Malta, the European principalities of Monaco
TOURIST INFORMATION and San Marino, and most South American
The Greek National Tourism Organisation countries. The list changes, so contact Greek
(EOT in Greek) office in Iraklio has a range embassies for the latest information. Those
of brochures and some maps but is the least not on the list can expect to pay about €20 for
helpful of the island’s tourist information of- a three-month visa (see www.greekembassy
fices. The municipal tourist offices in major .org for more details).
towns have handy maps, brochures, museum
and transport information and some help with Visa Extensions
accommodation lists. To stay in Greece for longer than three
months, apply at a consulate abroad or at least
TOURIST POLICE 20 days in advance to the Aliens Bureau (%210
The tourist police (%171) work in cooperation 510 2831; Leoforos Alexandras 173, Athens; h8am-1pm
with the regular police and EOT. There’s always Mon-Fri). Take your passport and four passport
at least one member of staff who speaks Eng- photographs along. You may be asked for
lish. Hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, tourist proof that you can support yourself financially
shops, tourist guides, waiters, taxi drivers and (bank statement, exchange slips).
bus drivers all come under their jurisdiction. In Crete, apply to the main prefecture in
If you think that you’ve been ripped off, report Iraklio. You will be given a permit that will
it to the tourist police. If you need to report a authorise you to stay in Greece for a period of
theft or loss of a passport, the tourist police will up to six months. Most travellers get around
act as interpreters between you and the regular this by visiting Bulgaria or Turkey briefly and
police. Some tourist police also dispense maps, then re-entering Greece.
brochures and transport information.
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
TOURS If mobility is a problem, visiting Crete will
The vast majority (80%) of visitors to Crete present some serious challenges. Most hotels,
opt for a package holiday. Flight and accom- ferries, museums and sites are not accessible
modation packages from Europe can be a to people in wheelchairs and the terrain of
remarkably good deal, costing far less than many areas is not suitable (although new ho-
booking separately. Charter flights alone can tels are required to be disability-friendly).
be hard to get, leading many regular visitors If you are determined, then take heart in
to book a cheap package but only stay at the the knowledge that wheelchair-users do go to
hotel the first night (or not at all) and make Crete for holidays. The Eria Resort (%28210 62790;
their own arrangements. The best-value deals www.eria-resort.gr) in Maleme, western Crete is one
can often pop up at the last minute as opera- of the few in Greece designed for travellers
DIRECTORY 220 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com

with disabilities. It caters for special needs and ers from Eastern Europe working through
equipment and offers medical support and agencies. You can try your luck at the bigger
appropriate excursions and activities. resorts or more remote places in the south.
There is some useful English-language in- Resorts such as Hersonisos and Malia that
formation on travelling in Greece on www cater to British travellers are the best bet for
.disabled.gr. Plan carefully before you travel. Brits looking for bar work.

WOMEN TRAVELLERS Holiday Representatives

Many women travel alone in Crete. The crime Crete provides terrific opportunities for work-
rate remains relatively low, and solo travel is ing as a representative for a package tour com-
probably safer than in most European coun- pany. British-based companies begin looking
tries. This does not mean that you should be for personnel around February for the sum-
lulled into complacency; bag snatching and mer season. The pay is low but you can make
rapes do occur, although violent offences are tips and some outfits allow reps to earn a
very rare. percentage of the packages they sell.
The biggest annoyance to foreign women
travelling alone are the guys the Greeks have Summer Harvest
nicknamed kamaki, although they appear to Seasonal harvest work seems to be monopo-
be a dying breed. The word means ‘fishing lised by migrant workers from Albania and
trident’ and refers to their favourite pastime, Eastern Europe, and is no longer a viable op-
‘fishing’ for foreign women. Once they were tion for travellers.
found everywhere there were lots of tourists,
but they are the exception these days, more Volunteer Work
of a nuisance than a threat. The majority of The Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece (%/
Greek men treat foreign women with respect, fax 210 523 1342; www.archelon.gr; Solomou 57, Athens
and are genuinely helpful. 10432) welcomes volunteers for its monitor-
ing programmes on Crete. See p69 for more
WORK information.
Permits If you’re keen to do some horse riding
EU nationals don’t need a work permit, but around Iraklio, make sure you ask around
they need a residency permit if they intend about the quality of treatment of the ani-
to stay longer than three months. Nationals mals and the validity of any volunteering
of other countries should in theory have a programs. Not all places hold to the same
work permit. standards.

Bar & Hostel Work Other Work

The best bar and hotel jobs can pay quite well – Jobs are often advertised in the classifieds of
so well that they are usually taken by young the English-language newspapers (see p208),
Greeks from the mainland or seasonal work- or you can place an advertisement yourself.
 221

Transport
AIR
CONTENTS Most travellers arrive in Crete by air. There
Getting There & Away 221 are regular flights from Athens, where most
Entering the Country 221 international flights arrive. In summer,
Air 221 there are direct charter flights from the UK
Land 223 and many European cities to Iraklio and
Sea 224 Hania, but very few direct international

TRANSPORT
Getting Around 226 scheduled flights; most change at Athens or
Boat 226 Thessaloniki.
Bus 227
Driving in Crete 227 Airports & Airlines
Hitching 230 Most scheduled international flights arrive in
Local Transport 230 Athens (or possibly Thessaloniki).
Athens International Airport (Eleftherios Venize-
los) (code ATH; %210 353 0000; www.aia.gr) is 27km
GETTING THERE & AWAY east of Athens.
Iraklio’s Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport
For many visitors, getting to Crete means first (code HER; %2810 228 401) is Crete’s biggest and
getting to mainland Greece, usually Athens. main airport. Built many years ago when tour-
However, it is also possible to fly directly to ism was just taking off in Crete, it is adequate,
Crete from all over Europe on scheduled and but can be strained at times with the massive
charter flights. influx of arrivals during the summer. There
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked are plans for a new airport near Kastelli, 40km
online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel from Iraklio.
_services. Hania airport (code CHQ; %28210 83800) is 14km
from Hania’s town centre. It is convenient for
ENTERING THE COUNTRY travellers heading to the west of Crete.
Visitors to Greece with EU passports are rarely Sitia airport (code JSH; %28430 24666) opened a
given more than a cursory glance, though cus- long runway but international flights had yet
toms may be interested in what you are carry- to start operating in 2007.
ing. EU nationals may also enter Greece with See p223 for frequency and approximate
a national ID card but some non-EU passport costs of flights from mainland Greece to
holders may require a visa. Check with con- Crete.
sular authorities or travel agents. Passports or
ID cards must be produced when you register AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM GREECE
in a hotel or pension in Crete. Aegean Airlines (A3; %801 11 20000; www.aegean
air.com)
Air Canada (AC; %210 617 5321; www.aircanada.ca)
Air France (AF; %210 960 1100; www.airfrance.com)
THINGS CHANGE… British Airways (BA; %210 890 6666; www.britishair
The information in this chapter is particu- ways.com)
larly vulnerable to change. Check directly Cyprus Airways (CY; %210 372 2722; www.cyprusair
with the airline or a travel agent to make .com.cy)
sure you understand how a fare works and Delta Air Lines (DL; %210 331 1660; www.delta.com)
be aware of the security requirements for easyJet (U2; %210 353 0300; www.easyjet.com)
international travel. The details given in this Emirates (EK; %210 933 3400; www.emirates.com)
chapter should be regarded as pointers and KLM (KL; %210 911 0000; www.klm.com)
are not a substitute for your own careful, Lufthansa (LH; %210 617 5200; www.lufthansa.com)
up-to-date research. Olympic Airlines (OA; %210 966 6666; 801 11 44444;
www.olympicairlines.com)
 222 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r lonelyplanet.com

Singapore Airlines (SQ; %210 372 8000; www It is advisable to book early as flights can
.singaporeair.com) be packed in the high season. See individual
Thai Airways (TG; %210 969 2010; www.thaiair.com) destination chapters for details of flights to
Transavia (HV; %281 030 0878; www.transavia.nl) specific destinations.
United Airlines (UA; %210 924 2645; www.ual.com) The information throughout this book
Virgin Express (TV; %210 949 0777; www.virgin- is for flights during high season (from
express.com) mid-June to late September). Outside these
months, the number of flights to the islands
DOMESTIC AIRLINES drops considerably.
Olympic Airlines, Greece’s national carrier,
handles the vast majority of domestic flights. CHARTER FLIGHTS
Olympic offers a 25% student discount as well Cheap charter flights to Crete operate from
TRANSPORT

as special youth fares for 18- to 24-year-olds all over Europe between April and October
on domestic flights, but only if the flight is but these can be increasingly difficult to find
part of an international journey. unless you also book a package holiday as they
Aegean Airlines flies between Athens, have been block-booked by tour operators.
Hania and Iraklio on modern aircraft with Tickets are cheap but flights are often at un-
generally excellent service. Aegean accepts in- godly hours and conditions may apply, such
ternet bookings, issues e-tickets and has heav- as ‘compulsory’ accommodation vouchers (al-
ily discounted fares if you book early. There though in practice this requirement may be
also are flights from Crete to Thessaloniki overlooked nowadays). Some regular visitors
and connections via Athens or Thessaloniki find it is cheaper to book a charter package to
to Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, Munich, Stuttgart, get to Crete and then go to other accommoda-
Paris, Milan and Rome. tion they have booked independently.
Sky Express (%2810 223 500; www.skyexpress.gr) Charter flight tickets are valid for up to
is a new airline running flights from Hania four weeks, and usually have a minimum-
to Rhodes and from Iraklio to Rhodes, San- stay requirement of at least three days. The
torini, Mytilini, Kos, Samos and Ikaria on tickets can be so cheap that it might be worth
its 18-seater planes (baggage is restricted buying a charter return even if you plan to
to 12.5kg). stay for longer.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben-
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.

Flying & Climate Change

Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer
distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the at-
mosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and
the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity
consumption over a whole year.

Carbon Offset Schemes

Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable
travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan
and Uganda.
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel in-
dustry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its
staff and author travel.
For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 223

Munich and Frankfurt. Iraklio is linked by

FLIGHTS FROM MAINLAND GREECE Lufthansa to Frankfurt, while several airlines
TO CRETE rush scheduled flights to Iraklio from cities
The following table will give you an idea across Germany in summer.
of the high-season frequency and approxi-
mate costs of one-way flights between NETHERLANDS
mainland Greece and Crete. KLM-associate Transavia has direct flights
Origin Destination Frequency Fare between Amsterdam and Iraklio.
(€)*
Athens Hania 5 daily 85-125 UK
Athens Iraklio 12 daily 85-125 Daily flights between London and Athens
Athens Sitia 4 weekly 71 are operated by British Airways, Olympic

TRANSPORT
Thessaloniki Hania 4 daily 106- Airlines and easyJet. Olympic also runs five
135 direct London–Thessaloniki flights a week
Thessaloniki Iraklio 3 daily 106- from Heathrow.
135 There are numerous charter flights to Crete
Rhodes Iraklio 2 daily 89-98 from London, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff,
Alexandroupoli Sitia 3 weekly 92 Edinburgh, Glasgow, Luton, Manchester and
Newcastle. Try www.charterflights.co.uk or
*One way, including tax www.justthef light.co.uk.

New Zealand
Look for cheap charter deals in the travel sec- There are no direct flights from New Zealand
tion of major newspapers or on the internet. to Athens. However, there are connecting
flights via Sydney, Melbourne, Bangkok and
Australia Singapore on Olympic Airlines, United Air-
Thai Airways and Singapore Airlines have lines, Thai Airways and Singapore Airlines.
convenient connections to Athens two to
three times a week. Emirates has daily flights USA
between Melbourne and Athens via Dubai. Flight options to Europe from the North At-
lantic are bewilderingly extensive. For online
Canada bookings try www.cheaptickets.com, www
Olympic Airlines has flights from Toronto to .expedia.com and www.orb itz.com.
Athens via Montreal. From Vancouver, there New York has the widest range of options
are connecting flights via Toronto, Amster- to Athens. Both Olympic Airlines and Delta
dam, Frankfurt and London on Air Canada, Airlines have direct flights but there are nu-
KLM, Lufthansa and British Airways. Brit- merous other connecting flights.
ish Airways flies from Montreal to Athens There are no direct flights to Athens from
via London. the west coast. There are, however, connecting
flights to Athens from many US cities, either
Europe linking with Olympic Airlines in New York
Athens is linked to every major city in Europe or flying with one of the European national
by either Olympic Airlines, Aegean Airlines airlines to their home country, and then on
or the flag carrier of each country. to Athens.

CYPRUS LAND
Cyprus Airways has four flights weekly direct Travellers arriving in Greece overland from
from Larnaca to Iraklio and five to six flights Western Europe normally drive to the Italian
daily to Athens. Olympic Airlines has a daily ports such as Venice, Ancona, Bari or Brindisi
flight from Larnaca to Iraklio and several daily and ship vehicles across to Igoumenitsa or
to Athens. Patra. To get to Crete, you would have to drive
to Piraeus to take a ferry. Passports are rarely
GERMANY required when crossing western European
Aegean Airlines has several flights from borders, the exception being the borders with
Iraklio connecting to Stuttgart, Düsseldorf, Switzerland.
 224 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • S e a lonelyplanet.com

ISLAND HOPPING TO CRETE

From Piraeus there are only two options for hopping off at other islands along the way to Crete.
ANEN Lines’ F/B Myrtidiotissa does a long ‘milk run’ via Gythio and the islands of Kythira and
Antikythira, while LANE Lines makes a stop in Milos and Santorini in the western Cyclades on its
thrice-weekly run to eastern Crete ports, continuing to Rhodes via Karpathos and other islands.
From Thessaloniki, you have a choice of stopping off at Skiathos, Skopelos, Tinos, Paros, Naxos,
Ios or Santorini on GA Ferries F/B Milena on its haul from one end of the Aegean to the other.
Alternatively, you can head to any of these intermediate islands from Piraeus or elsewhere and
pick up the Iraklio connection at your leisure. From Rhodes you have a choice of four ports to
hop off at: Halki, Diafani, Karpathos and Kasos, using LANE Lines’ connections from the Dodeca-
nese (twice weekly).
TRANSPORT

There are no bus services to Greece from Thessaloniki, Rhodes, Kalamata and Gythio,
western or northern Europe, but there are plus a smattering of Cyclades islands and
buses from Albania and Bulgaria. Kythira. From November to April, however,
services are considerably curtailed. Ferries
Car & Motorcycle are generally large car ferries and range in
Crossing from Italy to Greece no longer re- quality from ‘comfortable’ to luxurious. See
quires border formalities and is preferred by www.ferries.gr or www.gtp.gr for routes and
the great majority of drivers and riders head- timetables.
ing to Greece. There are four main Italian
ports serving Greece: Bari, Brindisi, Ancona Routes
and Trieste. Greece’s ferry hub is Piraeus, the sprawling
It is still possible to travel to Greece via port of Athens. Ferries to Crete depart from
Slovenia, Croatia, Bulgaria and the Former the western end of the port. The departure
Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, but the points are slightly more convenient for the
savings are not huge and are far outweighed suburban rail train station in Piraeus, but in-
by the distance involved and the necessity to volve a 10-minute hike from the metro sta-
cross five borders. tion. From central Piraeus allow a good 15 to
It is feasible on weekends in summer to 20 minutes’ walking to reach the Crete quays.
arrive in Patra by ferry in the morning and be Ferries leave here for Iraklio, Rethymno,
on a high-speed ferry to Crete by lunchtime, Hania, Agios Nikolaos and Kissamos-Kastelli.
arriving in Iraklio late the same day. Other- Check the destination board at the stern of
wise, you can just as easily take an overnight the ferry.
ferry to Crete on the same day you arrive
in Greece. Schedules
Ferry timetables change from season to sea-
Train son, and ferries are subject to delays and can-
Unless you have an InterRail (www.interrail.net) or cellations at short notice due to bad weather,
Eurail (www.eurail.com) pass or are aged under 26 strikes or mechanical problems. No timetable
or over 60 and eligible for a discounted fare, is infallible, but a comprehensive weekly list of
travelling to Greece by train is prohibitively departures from Piraeus is put out by the EOT
expensive. To get to Crete, you can take a (Ellinikos Organismos Tourismou, Greece’s
train to Brindisi in Italy and use your rail pass main tourist office) in Athens. The main ferry
for a free passage to Patra. From Patra you schedules are also published in the English-
can take a train to Kiato, then change to the language edition of Kathimerini (included in
suburban rail (included in your pass) which the International Herald Tribune) or check the
goes directly to Piraeus harbour for your ferry websites www.gtp.gr and www.open seas.gr.
connection to Crete. Throughout the year there is at least one
ferry daily from Piraeus to the major ports in
SEA Crete, with three or four per day in summer.
Crete is well served by ferries in the summer, Travelling time can vary considerably, de-
with mainland connections from Piraeus, pending on the ship and the route it takes.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • S e a 225

Hania’s fast catamaran can do the trip in 4½ automatically be given deck class, though you
hours, whereas Iraklio takes eight hours. can usually upgrade on board if you can’t find
a comfortable spot. See boxed text (below) for
Costs & Classes some sample fares.
Prices are fixed by the government, and are Cabins range from double-berth outside
determined by the distance travelled rather cabins (1st class) to four-berth inside cabins
than by the facilities of a particular boat. There (2nd class). Aircraft-type seats can be very
can be big differences in the size, comfort and comfortable (the new high-speed catamarans)
facilities of boats offering rival services, but to bearable (most older boats). Deck class
the fares will be the same. You may find that is hard and uncompromising and not usu-
differences in prices at ticket agencies are the ally custom-designed for deck-class sleepers.
result of some agents sacrificing part of the Modern ferry boats tend to have bare, exposed

TRANSPORT
commission to qualify as a ‘discount service’. deck sections, but there are always wind-pro-
The discount is seldom more than €1. tected areas where you can set up temporary
The large ferries nominally have two classes camp and several places inside where you can
(first and second) but the demarcation lines roll out your sleeping bag if you get in early.
between them are often blurred. You pay Many people nab a spot in the café area or
instead for either the quality of the cabin, lounges but these are invariably smoky. The
or the choice between aircraft-type seats or self-service restaurants on board are decent
deck passage. value.
Deck class remains a cheap way to travel,
while a 1st-class ticket can cost almost as much Tickets
as flying on some routes. Children under the Ferries can be prone to delays and cancella-
age of four travel free, while children between tions in bad weather, so it’s best not to buy
four and 10 pay half fare. Full fares apply for a ticket until it has been confirmed that the
children over 10 years of age. Unless you state ferry is operating (unless you want a cabin
otherwise when purchasing a ticket, you will or it’s the August peak season). If you need

FERRY TRAVEL TO CRETE

It wasn’t too long ago that ferry travel in Greece was a true ordeal. Deregulation of the formerly
closed domestic ferry market, a gradual upgrade of fleets and the aftershock of the F/B Express Samina
sinking in September 2000 have significantly improved the domestic and international ferry scene.
Ferry services to and from Crete still differ in quality and service. The high-speed boats of
Minoan Lines linking Piraeus and Iraklio, and Hellenic Seaways catamaran services to Hania, are
by far the most comfortable. NEL Lines also runs a high-speed catamaran service to Rethymno
in peak season (five hours).
Minoan’s services make the run between Iraklio and Piraeus in a flat eight hours on modern,
monster ferries – notably the F/B Festos Palace and the almost identical F/B Knossos Palace. Minoan’s
competitor ANEK is a comfortable option, although it still uses older, smaller boats. ANEK’s F/B
Preveli makes the overnight run between Rethymno and Piraeus. Larger ANEK boats also link the
western port of Souda, which serves Hania.
The one-boat ANEN Lines of western Crete runs a small ferry linking Piraeus and Gythio in
the Peloponnese with Kissamos-Kastelli via Kythira and Antikythira. To the east, LANE Lines links
Piraeus with Agios Nikolaos and Sitia with a stop in Milos and Santorini. Its two boats F/B Vitsentzos
Kornaros and F/B Ierapetra are fairly old, but comfortable enough.

Origin Destination Frequency Duration Fare (one way, €)

Piraeus Agios Nikolaos 2 weekly 14hr 34
Piraeus Hania (Souda) 2 daily 6-9hr 30-51.50
Piraeus Iraklio 2 daily 8hr 37
Piraeus Rethymno 2 daily 9hr 24
Gythio Kissamos-Kastelli 1 weekly 7hr 29-57
Thessaloniki Iraklio 4 weekly 31hr 46.50
 226 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B i c y c l e lonelyplanet.com

FERRIES TO/FROM CRETE Limnos

To Thessaloniki

Corfu
GREECE
SPORADES
Skiathos Lesvos
Skopelos
Skyros NORTH-EASTERN
Lefkada AEGEAN ISLANDS

Kefallonia Evia AEGEAN

SEA TURKEY
Chios
Patra ATHENS
Piraeus Andros
Zakynthos SARONIC Samos
GULF ISLANDS
Tinos Ikaria
TRANSPORT

IONIAN Kea
Mykonos
ISLANDS
Kythnos
Syros
PELOPONNESE
Paros
IONIAN Kalamata MIRTOÖN Naxos
Kos
SEA Gythio SEA CYCLADES
Kos
Ios
Milos

Rhodes
Kythira Santorini Halki
(Thira) Rhodes
DODECANESE
Antikythira
SEA OF CRETE Karpathos

Kissamos-
Kastelli Hania
Rethymno Agios
Iraklio Nikolaos Kasos
Paleohora Hora Sitia
Sfakion CRETE
Ierapetra
Gavdos Gaidouronisi
LIBYAN SEA

to reserve a car space, you may need to pay

in advance. If the service is cancelled, you
can transfer your ticket to the next available
GETTING AROUND
service with that company.
Agencies selling tickets line the waterfront BICYCLE
of most ports, but there’s rarely one that sells Cycling is becoming more common on
tickets for every boat, and often an agency is Crete, but the often-hilly terrain means you
reluctant to give information about a boat it need strong leg muscles and endurance. You
doesn’t sell tickets for. This means you will can hire bikes in most tourist areas. Prices
have to check the timetables displayed out- range from €8 to €20 per day. Bicycles are
side each agency to find out which ferry is carried free on ferries. See the Crete Out-
next to depart – or ask the port police. Ticket doors chapter (p70) or www.cycling.gr for
booths open up beside a ferry about an hour information on mountain-biking tours and
before departure. equipment hire.

Yacht BOAT
Yachting is probably the way to see the Greek Ferry
Islands, but Crete is a long way from other Smaller boats link the towns along Crete’s
islands and does not have a huge yachting south coast, some of which are only acces-
industry. There are companies that offer sible by sea.
sailing trips around Crete, especially along In summer there are daily boats from
the south coast and from Agios Nikolaos Paleohora to Hora Sfakion, via Agia Rou-
(see p76). meli, Sougia and Loutro. Schedules change
The sailing season lasts from April until Oc- from year to year, but there are usually
tober. In July and September, the meltemi winds two to three boats a day between Hora
in the Aegean can ground you regularly. Sfakion and Agia Roumeli and one boat
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B u s 227

a day from Hora Sfakion to Paleohora. the scenic but slower old roads so ask be-
Boats to Gavdos Island leave from Hora fore you buy your ticket. In major towns
Sfakion and Paleohora (though these were it’s best to buy your ticket at the station to
going via Hora Sfakion in 2007, making it ensure you get a seat, but if you board at a
a five-hour trip). stop along the way you can buy your ticket
Tourist boats run excursions to off- on the bus. Bus stations in major towns keep
shore islands, including Ierapetra to Gaid- long opening hours and are a good source of
ouronisi (Hrysi) Island, Agios Nikolaos to information. See the destination chapters for
Spinalonga, and Kissamos-Kastelli to the timetable information.
Gramvousa Peninsula.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Taxi Boat Having your own vehicle is the best way to

TRANSPORT
Most southern port cities have taxi boats – explore Crete if you can brave the roads and
small speedboats – transporting people to drivers. There are plenty of places to hire cars
places that are difficult to get to by land. Some and motorcycles and roads have improved
owners charge a set price for each person, and enormously in recent years, but in the more
others charge a flat rate for the boat, with the remote areas (particularly the south) you’ll
cost divided by the number of passengers. still find unpaved roads that are only suitable
Either way, prices are quite high. for 4WDs.
Beyond the main highways, prepare to
BUS spend a lot of time poring over maps, as
Crete’s comprehensive public bus service country roads are generally badly signposted.
makes it relatively easy to travel around the Road signs, when they exist, are usually
island. Frequent buses link the major towns marked in Greek and English (the English
along the north coast highway from Kissamos- phonetic sign follows a few metres after the
Kastelli to Sitia. Less-frequent buses operate Greek) except in remote areas. Even when
between the north-coast towns and the south written in Latin letters, the spelling of place
coast, via the interior villages. Fares are fixed names can vary wildly from the names on
by the government, and are very reasonable your map or in this book. Invest in a good
by European standards. map, but even the best maps don’t cover all
Buses are operated by regional collectives the side roads.
known as KTEL (www.ktel.org). Every prefecture Don’t expect reassuring signs along the way
has its own KTEL. Their website has sched- telling you you’re on track or the remain-
ules for all the island’s buses, or try www ing distance to your destination. The rule of
.crete-buses.gr (Iraklio–Lasithi) and www.bus thumb is just to keep going until told other-
-service-crete-ktel.com (Rethymno–Hania). wise and keep in mind you generally won’t get
Alternatively, you can pick up a handy leaflet much warning before a turn-off.
with Crete’s bus schedules at major KTEL The E75 highway that runs along the
bus stops. north coast from Sitia to Hania is continu-
Larger towns usually have a central, cov- ally being upgraded and is better in some parts
ered bus station with waiting rooms, toilets than others.
and a snack bar. In small towns and villages But the danger in Crete lies in the driving
the ‘bus station’ may be no more than a bus culture rather than the state of the highway.
stop outside a kafeneio (coffee house) or tav- Slower drivers are expected to straddle the
erna, which doubles as a booking office. Most narrow service lane and let the traffic pass.
timetables are in both Greek and English. The laid-back Cretans are manic drivers and
The buses running along the north coast are inexplicably immediately in a hurry once they
generally in good shape and air-conditioned. get behind the wheel so expect to be tailgated,
They do not have toilets on board or refresh- honked and overtaken if you move too slowly.
ments, so make sure you are prepared on both Overtaking on bends and ignoring double
counts. Smoking is prohibited on all buses; lines is prevalent. Road rules are routinely
only the chain-smoking drivers occasionally ignored and there is barely any police pres-
dare to ignore the ‘no smoking’ signs. ence (see Road Rules, p229).
Most buses use the northern highway, Inland and to the south, narrow and windy
but at least one or two buses each day use mountain roads can be hazardous.
 228 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com

It is best to avoid driving at night, especially topped up. Unleaded petrol – available eve-
as late-night revellers are plentiful and drink- rywhere – averages around €1 per litre. Diesel
driving laws are barely policed. is cheaper.
Motorcycles are great for short-haul trips Spare parts can be tricky to find, especially
but bear in mind Crete is a massive island if you are in the remoter parts of the island.
and the distances can make it hard work for Spare-parts dealers do deliver to all over
bikers. Crete, including two specialist companies
based in Moires, in central Iraklio. If you
Automobile Associations are stuck try O Germanos (%28920 29122; www.
The Greek automobile association ELPA (%210 o-germanos.com) or Eltrak (%2810 311 903; www.elt
606 8800; www.elpa.gr; Leoforos Mesogion 395, Agia Paraskevi, rak.gr).
Athens) offers reciprocal services to members
Hire
TRANSPORT

of national automobile associations with a

valid membership card. If your vehicle breaks CAR
down, dial %10400. Crete has cheaper car hire than many islands
due to the level of competition. Major interna-
Bringing Your Own Vehicle tional companies have offices in most towns
EU-registered vehicles are allowed free entry and airports, but you’ll usually get a much
into Greece but may only stay six months with- better deal if you hire from a local company
out road taxes being due. Only a green card (in- and negotiate. If you choose a company with
ternational third-party insurance) is required. offices across Crete, you can arrange to pick
The only proof of the date of your entry – up the car at one end of the island and drop
if requested by the police – is your ferry ticket it off at the other.
if you arrive from Italy, or your passport entry High-season daily rates with unlimited
stamp if entering from elsewhere. Vehicles mileage and insurance start at about €35 for
with non-EU registration may be logged in the smallest models, dropping to €20 to 25 in
your passport. low season. Check what insurance is included:
Crete is well served by car ferries, but they it is wise to insist on full insurance that covers
are fairly expensive. The price for a car from the hire car if an accident is your fault (third
Piraeus to Crete is about €86. Small motor- party only covers the other vehicle) or if the
bikes are normally free, but larger bikes cost car is damaged by an unknown third party.
from €16 to €32. Most companies will only let you hire a car
if you have a credit card.
Driving Licences The minimum driving age is 18 years, but
Crete recognises all national driving licences, most firms require you to be at least 23 years
provided they have been held for at least one old. Many will accept drivers under 21 as long
year. International Driving Permits can be as they have had their licence for more than
obtained before you leave home, but is not a year.
normally necessary. If you are hiring a mo- Most hire cars are manual, so book ahead
torcycle, a European driver’s licence allowing if you need an automatic car as they are rare
you to drive a bike under 50cc is accepted, and usually more expensive.
but travellers from other countries or those See the Getting Around sections of relevant
hiring bigger bikes will need the appropri- cities for details of car-hire outlets.
ate motorcycle licence. A growing number
of vehicle-hire agencies require them – and, MOTORCYCLE
in any case, you are not insured if you don’t Mopeds and motorcycles are widely avail-
have one. able for hire but Crete is not the best place
to initiate yourself into the world of motor-
Fuel & Spare Parts cycling: many tourists have accidents every
Some service stations close on Sunday and year. Caution should be exercised as roads
public holidays, especially in Iraklio prefec- change without warning from smooth and
ture. Self-service pumps are not the norm paved to cracked and pothole-ridden.
in Greece, nor are credit-card pumps, and Experienced motorcyclists will find that
out-of-the-way stations don’t take plastic at a lightweight Enduro motorcycle between
all, so it is always advisable to keep the tank 400cc and 600cc is ideal for negotiating
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • D r i v i n g i n C re t e 229

ROAD DISTANCES (KM)

Agia Galini ---

Agios Nikolaos 144 ---
Anogia 118 104 ---
Elafonisi 224 314 218 ---
Hania 119 209 113 105 ---
Hora Sfakion 45 215 119 70 70 ---
Ierapetra 137 36 140 352 247 182 ---
Iraklio 75 69 35 247 142 148 105 ---
Kissamos-Kastelli 173 263 167 51 54 124 301 196 ---
Kolymbari 144 234 138 65 25 95 261 167 14 ---

TRANSPORT
Malia 112 32 72 284 179 185 68 37 233 204 ---
Matala 29 138 104 253 148 123 131 69 265 173 106 ---
Omalos 163 253 157 149 44 114 291 186 98 69 223 255 ---
Paleohora 206 296 200 64 87 157 335 229 51 65 266 298 131 ---
Plakias 50 198 94 200 95 44 187 123 149 120 161 79 139 183 ---
Rethymno 62 152 56 162 57 63 190 85 111 62 122 91 101 144 39 ---
Sitia 199 73 177 387 282 290 62 142 336 307 105 211 326 369 265 227 ---
Spili 26 182 86 192 87 68 163 215 141 112 252 55 131 174 24 30 257 ---
Tzermiado 130 49 90 302 197 202 85 55 251 222 44 124 241 284 178 139 122 270 ---
Zakros 235 106 211 421 316 322 98 176 370 341 138 229 360 405 285 259 36 289 155 ---
Agia Galini

Agios Nikolaos

Anogia

Elafonisi

Hania

Hora Sfakion

Ierapetra

Iraklio

Kissamos-Kastelli

Kolymbari

Malia

Matala

Omalos

Paleohora

Plakias

Rethymno

Sitia

Spili

Tzermiado

Zakros
Crete’s roads. In many cases maintenance is Driving in the major cities and small towns
minimal, so check the machine thoroughly is a nightmare of erratic one-way streets, dou-
before you hire it – especially the brakes: you’ll ble parking and irregularly enforced parking
need them! When you hire a moped, tell the rules. Cars are not towed away but fines can
agent where you’ll be going to ensure that be expensive. Designated parking for disabled
your vehicle has enough power to get you up drivers is a rarity.
Crete’s steep hills. In Greece, as throughout Continental
Motorbike-hire rates start from €20 per Europe, you drive on the right and overtake
day for a moped or 50cc motorbike to €50 on the left. Major highways have four lanes,
for a top enduro bike. Out-of-season prices although some are still two-lane highways
drop considerably. Third-party insurance with large hard shoulders. These hard shoul-
is usually included in the price, but this ders are used for driving in, especially when
will not include medical expenses so check being overtaken. Be prepared to move over if
that your travel insurance covers you for someone wants to pass you.
motorbike injuries – many don’t. Motor- Seatbelts must be worn in the front and
cyclists riding bikes of 50cc or more must back seats, and you must in theory travel
wear helmets. with a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher and
warning triangle. Carrying cans of petrol is
Road Rules banned. Outside built-up areas, traffic on a
Greece has one of the highest road-fatality main road has right of way at intersections.
rates in Europe and will test your defen- In towns, vehicles coming from the right
sive driving skills. Overtaking is the biggest have right of way. Hefty fines are levied for
cause of accidents. Slow-driving tourists in speeding and other traffic and parking of-
hire cars can be a hazard, provoking impa- fences. Speed limits for cars are 120km/h
tient and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres on highways, 90km/h on other major roads
from others. and 50km/h in built-up areas. Speed limits
 230 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g lonelyplanet.com

for motorcycles are 70km/h (up to 100cc) for someone to stop and ask if you want a lift
and 90km/h (above 100cc). even if you haven’t asked for one (or to hail
The blood-alcohol limit is 0.05%; anything you for a ride).
over 0.08% is a criminal offence.
Traffic fines are not paid on the spot – you LOCAL TRANSPORT
will be told where to pay. Reciprocal legal Bus
agreements between EU countries may well Local city buses operating from Iraklio,
mean that an ignored parking fine will turn Rethymno and Hania largely service the sub-
up in your mailbox at home a few weeks later. urbs and are not practical for getting around
If you are involved in an accident and no-one (most routes they serve are walkable anyway).
is hurt, the police will not be required to write Tickets are normally bought at periptera (ki-
a report, but it is advisable to go to a nearby osks) or on board the bus.
TRANSPORT

police station and explain what happened. A

police report is required for insurance pur- Taxi
poses. If an accident involves injury, a driver Taxis are widely available except in remote
who does not stop and does not inform the villages, and are relatively cheap by Euro-
police may face a prison sentence. pean standards. Large towns have taxi stands
that post a list of prices to outlying destina-
HITCHING tions, which removes any anxiety about over-
Hitching is never entirely safe in any country, charging. Otherwise you pay what’s on the
and we don’t recommend it. People who do meter. Flag fall is €1 followed by €0.34 per km
choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in (€0.64 per km outside town or between mid-
pairs and should let someone know where night and 5am). There’s a €2.15 surcharge from
they are planning to go. Greece has a reputa- the airport and a €0.86 surcharge from a bus
tion for being a relatively safe place for women station or port. Each piece of luggage weighing
to hitch, but it is still unwise to do it alone more than 10kg carries a surcharge of €0.32, and
and it’s better to have a male companion. In there’s a surcharge of €1.60 for radio taxis. Rural
Crete you don’t hitch with your thumb up as taxis often do not have meters, so you should
in northern Europe, but with an outstretched always settle on a price before you get in.
hand, palm down to the road. Taxi drivers in Crete are, on the whole,
Getting out of major cities tends to be friendly, helpful and honest. If you have a
hard work; hitching is much easier in remote complaint, take the cab number and report it
areas. On country roads, it is not unknown to the tourist police.
 231

Health
cal care but not for non-emergencies or for
CONTENTS emergency repatriation. You can apply for
Before you go 231 one online in many EU countries via your
Insurance 231 government health department’s website.
Recommended Vaccinations 231 Citizens from other countries should find
Online Resources 231 out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for
In Transit 231 free medical care between their country
Jet lag 232 and Greece. If you do need health insur-
In Crete 232 ance, make sure you get a policy that covers
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 232 you for the worst possible scenario, such as
Environmental Hazards 232 an accident requiring an emergency flight
Travelling with Children 233 home. Find out in advance if your insur-
Women’s Health 233 ance plan will make payments directly to
Sexual Health 233 providers or reimburse you later for overseas
health expenditure.

BEFORE YOU GO RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

No jabs are required to travel to Greece,
Prevention is key to staying healthy while but a yellow-fever vaccination certificate
is required if you are coming from an in-

HEALTH
abroad. A little planning before departure,
particularly for pre-existing illnesses, will fected area. The World Health Organiza-
save trouble later on. Bring medications in tion (WHO) recommends that all travellers
their original, clearly labelled, containers. be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, measles,
A signed and dated letter from your phy- mumps, rubella and polio.
sician describing your medical conditions
and medications, including generic names, ONLINE RESOURCES
is a good idea (also see Warning, below). If The WHO publication International Travel
carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have and Health is revised annually and is avail-
a physician’s letter stating their medical ne- able online at www.who.int/ith. Other useful
cessity. If you’re planning a long trip, make websites include www.mdtravelhealth.com
sure your teeth are OK and take your optical (travel health recommendations for every
prescription with you. country; updated daily), www.fitfortravel
.scot.nhs.uk (general travel advice for the
layperson), www.ageconcern.org.uk (advice
INSURANCE on travel for the elderly) and www.mariest
If you’re an EU citizen, the European Health opes.org.uk (information on women’s health
Insurance Card (which replaced the E111 and contraception).
form in 2006) covers you for most medi-

WARNING IN TRANSIT
Codeine, which is commonly found in head-
ache preparations, is banned in Greece; DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT)
check labels carefully, or risk prosecution. Blood clots may form in the legs during
There are strict regulations applying to the plane flights, chiefly because of prolonged
importation of medicines into Greece, so immobility (the longer the flight, the greater
obtain a certificate from your doctor that the risk). The chief symptom of DVT is
outlines any medication you may have to swelling or pain of the foot, ankle, or calf,
carry into the country with you. usually but not always on just one side.
When a blood clot travels to the lungs, it
 232 I N C R E T E • • Av a i l a b i l i t y & C o s t o f H e a l t h C a re lonelyplanet.com

may cause chest pain and breathing difficul- to loosen them. If they are not removed they
ties. Travellers with any of these symptoms will become infected. Be wary also of jelly-
should immediately seek medical attention. fish, particularly during the months of Sep-
To prevent the development of DVT on tember and October. Although they are not
long flights you should walk about the cabin, lethal in Greece, their stings can be painful.
contract the leg muscles while sitting, drink Dousing in vinegar will deactivate any sting-
plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol, tobacco ers that have not ‘fired’. Calamine lotion, an-
and caffeine. Compression socks are also tihistamines and analgesics may reduce the
being recommended for people at risk of reaction and relieve the pain. Much more
DVT. painful than either of these, but thankfully
much rarer, is an encounter with the weever
JET LAG fish. It buries itself in the sand of the tidal
To avoid jet lag drink plenty of nonalcoholic zone with only its spines protruding, and
fluids and eat light meals. Upon arrival, get injects a painful and powerful toxin if trod-
exposure to natural sunlight and readjust den on. Soaking your foot in very hot water
your schedule (for meals, sleep, etc) as soon (which breaks down the poison) should
as possible. solve the problem. It can cause permanent
local paralysis in the worst cases.
IN CRETE Greece’s only dangerous snake is the adder.
To minimize the possibilities of being bitten,
always wear boots, socks and long trousers
AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE when walking through undergrowth where
If you need an ambulance in Crete call snakes may be present. Don’t put your hands
%166. Crete’s major cities of Iraklio, Hania into holes and crevices, and be careful when
and Rethymno have modern, well-equipped collecting firewood. Snake bites do not cause
HEALTH

hospitals. Pharmacies can dispense medi- instantaneous death and an antivenin is

cines that are available only on prescription widely available. Keep the victim calm and
in most European countries, so you can con- still, wrap the bitten limb tightly, as you would
sult a pharmacist for minor ailments. for a sprained ankle, and attach a splint to
All this sounds fine but, although medical immobilize it. Seek medical help, if possible
training is of a high standard in Greece, the taking the dead snake (or preferably a photo)
health service is badly under funded. Hos- with you for identification. Don’t attempt
pitals can be overcrowded, hygiene is not to catch the snake if there is a possibility of
always what it should be and relatives are being bitten again. Tourniquets and suck-
expected to bring in food for the patient – ing out the poison are now comprehensively
which could be a problem for a tourist. discredited.
Conditions and treatment are better in pri- Always check all over your body if you
vate hospitals, which are expensive. All this have been walking through a potentially tick-
means that a good health-insurance policy infested area as ticks can cause skin infections
is essential. and other more serious diseases such as Lyme
disease and typhus. If a tick is attached, press
TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA down around its head with tweezers, grab the
If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink head and gently pull upwards. Avoid pulling
plenty of fluids, preferably in the form of the rear of the body as this may squeeze the
an oral rehydration solution such as diora- tick’s gut contents into the skin, increasing
lyte. If diarrhoea is bloody, persists for more the risk of infection and disease. Lyme dis-
than 72 hours or is accompanied by fever, ease begins with the spreading of a rash at
shaking, chills or severe abdominal pain you the site of the bite, accompanied by fever,
should seek medical attention. headache, extreme fatigue, aching joints and
muscles and severe neck stiffness. If untreated,
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS symptoms usually disappear but disorders
Bites, Stings & Insect-Borne Diseases of the nervous system, heart and joints can
Watch out for sea urchins around rocky develop later. Treatment works best early in
beaches; if you get some of their needles the illness – medical help should be sought.
embedded in your skin, olive oil will help Typhus begins with a fever, chills, headache
lonelyplanet.com I N C R E T E • • T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n 233

and muscle pains, followed a few days later loss of judgment and clumsiness. Unless
by a body rash. There is often a large painful re-warming occurs, the sufferer deteriorates
sore at the site of the bite and nearby lymph into apathy, confusion and coma. Prevent
nodes are swollen and painful. There is no any further heat loss by seeking shelter,
vaccine available. putting on warm dry clothing, drinking
Rabies is still found in Greece but only in something hot and sweet, and sharing
isolated areas. Any bite, scratch or even lick body warmth.
from a warm-blooded, furry animal should
be scrubbed with soap and running water TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN
immediately and then cleaned with an alcohol Make sure children are up to date with
solution. If there is any possibility that the ani- routine vaccinations and discuss possible
mal is infected medical help should be sought travel vaccines well before departure as
immediately. Even if the animal is not rabid, some vaccines are not suitable for children
all bites should be treated seriously as they can under a year old. Lonely Planet’s Travel with
become infected or can result in tetanus. Children includes travel health advice for
younger children.
Heatstroke
Heatstroke occurs following excessive fluid WOMEN’S HEALTH
loss and inadequate replacement of fluids and Emotional stress, exhaustion and travelling
salt. Symptoms include headache, dizziness through different time zones can all contrib-
and tiredness. Dehydration is already hap- ute to an upset in the menstrual pattern.
pening by the time you feel thirsty – aim to If using oral contraceptives, remember
drink sufficient water to produce pale, diluted some antibiotics, diarrhoea and vomiting
urine. To treat heatstroke drink water and/or can stop the pill from working. Time zones,
fruit juice, and cool the body with cold water gastrointestinal upsets and antibiotics do not

HEALTH
and fans. affect injectable contraception.
Travelling during pregnancy is usually pos-
Hypothermia sible but always consult your doctor before
Hypothermia occurs when the body loses planning your trip. The most risky times for
heat faster than it can produce it. As ever, travel are during the first 12 weeks of preg-
proper preparation will reduce the risks of nancy and after 30 weeks.
getting it. Even on a hot day in the moun-
tains, the weather can change rapidly so SEXUAL HEALTH
carry waterproof garments, warm layers Condoms are readily available but emergency
and a hat, and inform other people of your contraception may not be, so take the neces-
route. Hypothermia starts with shivering, sary precautions.
 234

Language
regional dialects, namely Cretan, Cypriot
and Macedonian.
CONTENTS Greek is spoken throughout Greece by a
population of around 10 million, and by
Pronounciation 234 some five million Greeks who live abroad.
Accommodation 234
Conversation & Essentials 236 PRONOUNCIATION
Directions 236 All Greek words of two or more syllables
Health 237 have an acute accent which indicates where
Language Difficulties 238 the stress falls. For instance, άγαλμα (statue)
Numbers 238 is pronounced aghalma, and αγάπη (love)
Emergencies 238 is pronounced aghapi. In the following
Paperwork 238 transliterations, italic lettering indicates
Question Words 238 where stress falls. Note also that dh is pro-
Shopping & Services 239 nounced as ‘th’ in ‘then’ and gh is a softer,
Time & Dates 239 slightly guttural version of ‘g’.
Transport 239
Travel with Children 240 ACCOMMODATION
I’m looking for ...
psa·hno yi·a ... Ψάχνω για ...
The Greek language is probably the oldest a room
European language, with an oral tradition e·na dho·ma·ti·o ένα δωμάτιο
of 4000 years and a written tradition of ap- a hotel
proximately 3000 years. Its evolution over e·na kse·no·dho·chi·o ένα ξενοδοχείο
the four millennia was characterised by its a youth hostel
strength during the golden age of Athens e·nan kse·no·na έναν ξενώνα
and the Democracy (mid-5th century BC); ne·o·ti·tas νεότητας
its use as a lingua franca throughout the
Middle Eastern world, spread by Alexander Where’s a cheap hotel?
the Great and his successors as far as India pou i·ne e·na fti·no xe·no·do·hi·o
during the Hellenistic period (330 BC to Πού είναι ένα φτηνό ξενοδοχείο;
AD 100); its adaptation as the language of What’s the address?
pya i·ne i dhi·ef·thin·si
LANGUAGE

the new religion, Christianity; its use as the

official language of the Eastern Roman Em- Ποια είναι η διεύθυνση;
pire; and its proclamation as the language Could you write the address, please?
of the Byzantine Empire (380–1453). pa·ra·ka·lo bo·ri·te na ghra·pse·te ti· dhi·ef·thin·si
Greek maintained its status and prestige Παρακαλώ, μπορείτε να γράψετε τη διεύθυνση;
during the rise of the European Renais- Are there any rooms available?
sance and was employed as the linguistic i·par·chun e·lef·the·ra dho·ma·ti·a
perspective for all contemporary sciences Υπάρχουν ελεύθερα δωμάτια;
and terminologies during the period of En-
lightenment. Today, Greek constitutes a I’d like to book ...
large part of the vocabulary of any Indo- tha i·the·la na kli·so ... Θα ήθελα να κλείσω ...
European language, and much of the lexi- a bed
con of any scientific repertoire. e·na kre·va·ti ένα κρεββάτι
The modern Greek language is a south- a single room
ern Greek dialect which is now used by e·na mo·no·kli·o·no ένα μονόκλινο
most Greek speakers both in Greece and dho·ma·ti·o δωμάτιο
abroad. It is the result of an intralinguistic a double room
influence and synthesis of the ancient vo- e·na dhi·kli·no ένα δίκλινο
cabulary combined with words from Greek dho·ma·ti·o δωμάτιο
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • T h e G re e k A l p h a b e t & P r o n u n c i a t i o n 235

THE GREEK ALPHABET & PRONUNCIATION

Greek Pronunciation Guide Example
Αα a as in ‘father’ αγάπη a·gha·pi love
Ββ v as in ‘vine’ βήμα vi·ma step
Γγ gh like a rough ‘g’ γάτα gha·ta cat
y as in ‘yes’ για ya for
Δδ dh as in ‘there’ δέμα dhe·ma parcel
Εε e as in ‘egg’ ένας e·nas one (m)
Ζζ z as in ‘zoo’ ζώο zo·o animal
Ηη i as in ‘feet’ ήταν i·tan was
Θθ th as in ‘throw’ θέμα the·ma theme
Ιι i as in ‘feet’ ίδιος i·dhyos same
Κκ k as in ‘kite’ καλά ka·la well
Λλ l as in ‘leg’ λάθος la·thos mistake
Μμ m as in ‘man’ μαμά ma·ma mother
Νν n as in ‘net’ νερό ne·ro water
Ξξ x as in ‘ox’ ξύδι ksi·dhi vinegar
Οο o as in ‘hot’ όλα o·la all
Ππ p as in ‘pup’ πάω pa·o I go
Ρρ r as in ‘road’ ρέμα re·ma stream
a slightly trilled ‘r’ ρόδα ro·dha tyre
Σ σ, ς s as in ‘sand’ σημάδι si·ma·dhi mark
Ττ t as in ‘tap’ τόπι to·pi ball
Υυ i as in ‘feet’ ύστερα is·tera after
Φφ f as in ‘find’ φύλλο fi·lo leaf
Χχ kh as the ‘ch’ in χάνω kha·no I lose
Scottish ‘loch’, or
like a rough ‘h’ χέρι he·ri hand
Ψψ ps as in ‘lapse’ ψωμί pso·mi bread
Ωω o as in ‘hot’ ώρα o·ra time

Combinations of Letters
The combinations of letters shown here are pronounced as follows:
Greek Pronunciation Guide Example
ει i as in ‘feet’ είδα i·dha I saw
οι i as in ‘feet’ οικόπεδο i·ko·pe·dho land
LANGUAGE

αι e as in ‘bet’ αίμα e·ma blood

ου u as in ‘mood’ πού pou who/what
μπ b as in ‘beer’ μπάλα ba·la ball
mb as in ‘amber’ κάμπος kam·bos forest
ντ d as in ‘dot’ ντουλάπα dou·la·pa wardrobe
nd as in ‘bend’ πέντε pen·de five
γκ g as in ‘God’ γκάζι ga·zi gas
γγ ng as in ‘angle’ αγγελία an·ge·lia announcement
γξ ks as in ‘minks’ σφιγξ sfinks sphynx
τζ dz as in ‘hands’ τζάκι dza·ki fireplace

The pairs of vowels shown above are pronounced separately if the first has an acute accent, or the second a dieresis,
as in the examples below:
γαϊδουράκι gai·dhou·ra·ki little donkey
Κάιρο kai·ro Cairo
Some Greek consonant sounds have no English equivalent. The υ of the groups αυ, ευ and ηυ is generally
pronounced ‘v’. The Greek question mark is represented with the English equivalent of a semicolon ‘;’.
 236 L A N G UA G E • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s lonelyplanet.com

a room with a double bed I’m from ...

e·na dho·ma·ti·o me ένα δωμάτιο με i·me a·po ... Είμαι από ...
dhi·plo kre·va·ti διπλο κρεβάτι I (don’t) like ...
a room with a bathroom (dhen) ma·re·si ... (Δεν) μ’ αρέσει ...
e·na dho·ma·ti·o me ένα δωμάτιο με Just a minute.
ba·ni·o μπάνιο mi·so lep·to Μισό λεπτό.

I’d like to share a dorm. DIRECTIONS

tha i·the·la na mi·ra·sto e·na ki·no dho·ma·ti·o Where is ...?
me al·la a·to·ma pou i·ne ... Πού είναι...;
Θα ήθελα να μοιραστώ ένα κοινό δωμάτιο Straight ahead.
με άλλα άτομα o·lo ef·thi·a Ολο ευθεία.
Turn left.
How much is it ...? po·so ka·ni ... Πόσο κάνει ...; strips·te a·ri·ste·ra Στρίψτε αριστερά
per night ti ·vra·dhya τη βραδυά Turn right.
per person to a·to·mo το άτομο strips·te dhe·ksi·a Στρίψτε δεξιά
at the next corner
May I see it? stin epo·me·ni gho·ni·a στην επόμενη γωνία
bo·ro na to dho Μπορώ να το δω; at the traffic lights
Where’s the bathroom? sta fo·ta στα φώτα
pou i·ne to·ba·ni·o Πού είναι το μπάνιο;
I’m/We’re leaving today.
fev·gho/fev·ghou·me Φεύγω/φεύγουμε SIGNS
si·me·ra σήμερα ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ Entry
ΕΞΟΔΟΣ Exit
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS ΠΛΗΡΟΦΟΡΙΕΣ Information
Hello. ΑΝΟΙΧΤΟ Open
ya·sas (pol) Γειά σας. ΚΛΕΙΣΤΟ Closed
ya·su (inf) Γειά σου. ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ Prohibited
Good morning. ΑΣΤΥΝΟΜΙΑ Police
ka·li me·ra Καλή μέρα. ΑΣΤΥΝΟΜΙΚΟΣ Police Station
Good afternoon/evening. ΣΤΑΘΜΟΣ
ka·li spe·ra Καλή σπέρα. ΓΥΝΑΙΚΩΝ Toilets (women)
Good night. ΑΝΔΡΩΝ Toilets (men)
ka·li nikh·ta Καλή νύχτα.
Goodbye.
Αντίο. behind pi·so πίσω
LANGUAGE

an·di·o
Yes. in front of bro·sta μπροστά
ne Ναι. far ma·kri·a μακριά
No. near (to) kon·da κοντά
o·hi Οχι. opposite a·pe·nan·di απέναντι
Please.
pa·ra·ka·lo Παρακαλώ. acropolis a·kro·po·li ακρόπολη
Thank you. beach pa·ra·li·a παραλία
ef·ha·ri·sto Ευχαριστώ. bridge yefira γέφυρα
That’s fine/You’re welcome. castle ka·stro κάστρο
pa·ra·ka·lo Παρακαλώ. island ni·si νησί
Sorry. (excuse me, forgive me) main square ken·dri·ki· pla·ti·a κεντρική πλατεία
sigh·no·mi Συγγνώμη. market a·gho·ra αγορά
What’s your name? museum mu·si·o μουσείο
pos sas le·ne Πώς σας λένε; old quarter pa·li·a po·li παλιά πόλη
My name is ... ruins ar·he·a αρχαία
me le·ne ... Με λένε ... sea tha·las·sa θάλασσα
Where are you from? square pla·ti·a πλατεία
a·po pou i·ste Από πού είστε; temple na·os ναός
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • H e a l t h 237

TRANSLITERATION & VARIANT SPELLINGS: AN EXPLANATION

The issue of correctly transliterating Greek into the Latin alphabet is a vexed one, fraught with
inconsistencies and pitfalls. The Greeks themselves are not very consistent in this respect, though
things are gradually improving. The word ‘Piraeus’, for example, has been variously represented
by the following transliterations: Pireas, Piraievs and Pireefs; and when appearing as a street name
(eg Piraeus St) you will also find Pireos!
This has been compounded by the linguistic minefield of diglossy, or the two forms of the Greek
language. The purist form is called Katharevousa and the popular form is Dimotiki (Demotic). The
Katharevousa form was never more than an artificiality and Dimotiki has always been spoken as
the mainstream language, but this linguistic schizophrenia means there are often two Greek words
for each English word. Thus, the word for ‘baker’ in everyday language is fournos, but the shop
sign will more often than not say artopoieion. The baker’s product will be known in the street as
psomi, but in church as artos.
A further complication is the issue of anglicised vs hellenised forms of place names: Athina vs
Athens, Patra vs Patras, Thiva vs Thebes, Evia vs Euboia – the list goes on and on! Toponymic
diglossy (the existence of both an official and everyday name for a place) is responsible for Kerkyra/
Corfu, Zante/Zakynthos, and Santorini/Thira. In this guide we usually provide modern Greek
equivalents for town names, with one well known exception, Athens. For ancient sites, settlements
or people from antiquity, we have tried to stick to the more familiar classical names; so we have
Thucydides instead of Thoukididis, Mycenae instead of Mykines.
Problems in transliteration have particular implications for vowels, especially given that Greek
has six ways of rendering the vowel sound ‘ee’, two ways of rendering the ‘o’ sound and two ways
of rendering the ‘e’ sound. In most instances in this book, y has been used for the ‘ee’ sound when
a Greek upsilon (υ, Υ) has been used, and i for Greek ita (η, Η) and iota (ι, Ι). In the case of the Greek
vowel combinations that make the ‘ee’ sound, that is οι, ει and υι, an i has been used. For the two
Greek ‘e’ sounds αι and ε, an e has been employed.
As far as consonants are concerned, the Greek letter gamma (γ, Γ) appears as g rather than y
throughout this book. This means that agios (Greek for male saint) is used rather than ayios, and
agia (female saint) rather than ayia. The letter fi (φ, Φ) can be transliterated as either f or ph. Here,
a general rule of thumb is that classical names are spelt with a ph and modern names with an f.
So Phaistos is used rather than Festos, and Folegandros is used rather than Pholegandros. The
Greek chi (χ, Χ) has usually been represented as h in order to approximate the Greek pronunciation
as closely as possible. Thus, we have Haralambos instead of Charalambos and Polytehniou instead
of Polytechniou. Bear in mind that the h is to be pronounced as an aspirated 'h', much like the ‘ch’
in ‘loch’. The letter kapa (κ, Κ) has been used to represent that sound, except where well known
LANGUAGE

names from antiquity have adopted by convention the letter c, eg Polycrates, Acropolis.
Wherever reference to a street name is made, we have omitted the Greek word odos, but words
for avenue (leoforos, abbreviated leof) and square (plateia) have been included.

HEALTH I’m allergic to ...

I’m ill. i·me a·ro·stos Είμαι άρρωστος. i·me a·ler·yi·kos/ Είμαι αλλεργικός/
It hurts here. po·nai· e·dho Πονάει εδώ. a·ler·yi·ki ... (m/f) αλλεργική ...
antibiotics
I have ... sta an·di·vi·o·ti·ka στα αντιβιωτικά
e·ho ... Εχω ... aspirin
asthma stin a·spi·ri·ni στην ασπιρίνη
asth·ma άσθμα penicillin
diabetes
stin pe·ni·ki·li·ni στην πενικιλλίνη
za·ha·ro·dhi·a·vi·ti ζαχαροδιαβήτη
diarrhoea bees
dhi·a·ri·a διάρροια stis me·li·ses στις μέλισσες
epilepsy nuts
e·pi·lip·si·a επιληψία sta fi·sti·ki·a στα φυστίκια
 238 L A N G UA G E • • L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s lonelyplanet.com

condoms pro·fi·la·kti·ka προφυλακτικά

(ka·po·tez) (καπότες) EMERGENCIES
contraceptive pro·fi·lak·ti·ko προφυλακτικό Help!
medicine farm·a·ko φάρμακο vo·i·thya Βοήθεια!
sunblock cream kre·ma i·li·u κρέμα ηλίου There’s been an accident.
tampons tam·bon ταμπόν ey·i·ne a·ti·hi·ma Εγινε ατύχημα.
Go away!
LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES fi·ye Φύγε!
Do you speak English?
mi·la·te an·gli·ka Μιλάτε Αγγλικά; Call ...! fo·nak·ste ... Φωνάξτε ...!
Does anyone speak English? a doctor e·na yi·a·tro ένα γιατρό
mi·lai ka·nis an·gli·ka Μιλάει κανείς αγγλικά; the police tin a·sti·no·mi·a την αστυνομία
How do you say ... in Greek?
ps le·ghe·te ... sta Πώς λέγεται ... στα PAPERWORK
el·li·ni·ka ελληνικά; name
I understand. o·no·ma·te·po·ni·mo ονοματεπώνυμο
ka·ta·la·ve·no Καταλαβαίνω. nationality
I don’t understand. i·pi·ko·o·ti·ta υπηκοότητα
dhen ka·ta·la·ve·no Δεν καταλαβαίνω. date of birth
Please write it down. i·me·ro·mi·ni·a ημερομηνία
ghrap·ste to pa·ra·ka·lo Γράψτε το, παρακαλώ. yen·ni·se·os γεννήσεως
Can you show me on the map?
bo·ri·te na mo·u to Μπορείτε να μου το place of birth
dhi·xe·te sto har·ti δείξετε στο χάρτη; to·pos yen·ni·se·os τόπος γεννήσεως
sex (gender)
NUMBERS fil·lon φύλον
0 mi·dhen μηδέν passport
1 e·nas ένας (m) dhia·va·ti·ri·o διαβατήριο
mi·a μία (f) visa
e·na ένα (n) vi·za βίζα
2 dhi·o δύο
3 tris τρεις (m&f) QUESTION WORDS
tri·a τρία (n) Who/Which?
4 te·se·ris τέσσερεις (m&f) pi·os/pi·a/pi·o (sg m/f/n) Ποιος/Ποια/Ποιο;
te·se·ra τέσσερα (n) pi·i/pi·es/pi·a (pl m/f/n) Ποιοι/Ποιες/Ποια;
5 pen·de πέντε Who’s there?
LANGUAGE

pi·os i·ne e·ki Ποιος είναι εκεί;

6 e·xi έξη
Which street is this?
7 ep·ta επτά
pi·a o·dhos i·ne af·ti Ποια οδός είναι αυτή;
8 oh·to οχτώ What?
9 e·ne·a εννέα ti Τι;
10 dhe·ka δέκα What’s this?
20 ik·o·si είκοσι ti i·ne af·to Τι είναι αυτό;
30 tri·an·da τριάντα Where?
40 sa·ran·da σαράντα pu Πού;
50 pe·nin·da πενήντα When?
60 exin·da εξήντα po·te Πότε;
70 ev·dho·min·da εβδομήντα Why?
80 oh·dhon·da ογδόντα yi·a·ti Γιατί;
90 eneninda ενενήντα How?
100 e·ka·to εκατό pos Πώς;
1000 hi·li·i χίλιοι (m) How much?
hi·li·ez χίλιες (f) po·so Πόσο;
hi·li·a χίλια (n) How much does it cost?
2000 dhi·o chi·li·a·dhez δυό χιλιάδες po·so ka·ni Πόσο κάνει;
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • S h o p p i n g & S e r v i c e s 239

SHOPPING & SERVICES Monday dhef·te·ra Δευτέρα

I’d like to buy ... Tuesday tri·ti Τρίτη
the·lo n’a·gho·ra·so ... Θέλω ν’ αγοράσω ... Wednesday te·tar·ti Τετάρτη
How much is it? Thursday pemp·ti Πέμπτη
po·so ka·ni Πόσο κάνει; Friday pa·ras·ke·vi Παρασκευή
I don’t like it Saturday sa·va·to Σάββατο
dhen mu a·re·si Δεν μου αρέσει. Sunday kyri·a·ki Κυριακή
May I see it?
bo·ro na to dho Μπορώ να το δω; January ia·nou·ar·i·os Ιανουάριος
I’m just looking. February fev·rou·ar·i·os Φεβρουάριος
ap·los ki·ta·zo Απλώς κοιτάζω. March mar·ti·os Μάρτιος
It’s cheap. April a·pri·li·os Απρίλιος
i·ne fti·no Είναι φτηνό May mai·os Μάιος
It’s too expensive. June i·ou·ni·os Ιούνιος
i·ne po·li a·kri·vo Είναι πολύ ακριβό. July i·ou·li·os Ιούλιος
I’ll take it. August av·ghous·tos Αύγουστος
tha to pa·ro Θα το πάρω September sep·tem·vri·os Σεπτέμβριος
October ok·to·vri·os Οκτώβριος
November no·em·vri·os Νοέμβριος
Do you accept ...? dhe·che·ste ... Δέχεστε ...;
December dhe·kem·vri·os Δεκέμβριος
credit cards pi·sto·ti·ki kar·ta πιστωτική κάρτα
travellers tak·si·dhi·o·ti·kes ταξιδιωτικές
cheques e·pi·ta·ghes επιταγές
TRANSPORT
Public Transport
What time does ti o·ra fev·yi/ Τι ώρα φεύγει/
more pe·ri·so·te·ro περισσότερο the ... leave/ fta·ni to ... φτάνει το ...;
less li·gho·te·ro λιγότερο arrive?
smaller mi·kro·te·ro μικρότερο boat pli·o πλοίο
bigger me·gha·li·te·ro μεγαλύτερο (city) bus a·sti·ko αστικό
(intercity) bus le·o·fo·ri·o λεωφορείο
I’m looking for ...psach·no ya ... Ψάχνω για ... plane ae·ro·pla·no αεροπλάνο
a bank mya tra·pe·za μια τράπεζα train tre·no τραίνο
the church tin ek·kli·si·a την εκκλησία
the city centre to ken·dro tis το κέντρο της I’d like tha i·the·la Θα ήθελα
po·lis πόλης (a) ... (e·na) ... (ένα) ...
the ... embassy tin ... pres·vi·a την ... πρεσβεία one way ticket a·plo isi·ti·ri·o απλό εισιτήριο
the market ti· lai·ki· a·gho·ra τη λαϊκη αγορά return ticket i·si·ti·ri·o me εισιτήριο με
the museum to mu·si·o το μουσείο e·pi·stro·fi επιστροφή
LANGUAGE

the post office to ta·chi·dhro·mi·o το ταχυδρομείο 1st class pro·ti· the·si πρώτη θέση
a public toilet mya dhi·mo·sia μια δημόσια 2nd class def·te·ri the·si δεύτερη θέση
tu·a·let·ta τουαλέττα
the telephone to ti·le·fo·n·i·ko το τηλεφωνικό I want to go to ...
centre ken·dro κέντρο the·lo na pao sto/sti...
the tourist office to tu·ri·st·iko το τουριστικό Θέλω να πάω στο/στη ...
ghra·fi·o γραφείο The train has been cancelled/delayed.
to tre·no a·ki·rothi·ke/ka·thi·ste·ri·se
TIME & DATES Το τραίνο ακυρώθηκε/καθυστέρησε
What time is it? ti o·ra i·ne Τι ώρα είναι;
It’s (2 o’clock). i·ne (dhi·o i· o·ra) είναι (δύο η ώρα). the first
in the morning to pro·i το πρωί to pro·to το πρώτο
in the afternoon to a·po·yev·ma το απόγευμα the last
in the evening to vra·dhi το βράδυ to te·lef·te·o το τελευταίο
When? po·te Πότε; platform number
today si·me·ra σήμερα a·rithmos a·po·va·thras αριθμός αποβάθρας
tomorrow av·ri·o αύριο ticket office
yesterday hthes χθες ek·dho·ti·ri·o i·si·ti·ri·on εκδοτήριο εισιτηρίων
 240 L A N G UA G E • • T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n lonelyplanet.com

timetable
dhro·mo·lo·gio δρομολόγιο ROAD SIGNS
train station ΠΑΡΑΚΑΜΨΗ Detour
si·dhi·ro·dhro·mi·kos σιδηροδρομικός ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΕΑΙ Η ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ No Entry
stath·mos σταθμός ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ Η ΠΡΟΣΠΕΡΑΣΗ No Overtaking
ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ ΗΣΤΑΘΜΕΥΣΗ No Parking
Private Transport ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ Entrance
I’d like to hire tha i·the·la na Θα ήθελα να ΜΗΝ ΠΑΡΚΑΡΕΤΕ ΕΔΩ Keep Clear
a ... ni·ki·a·so ... νοικιάσω ... ΔΙΟΔΙΑ Toll
car e·na af·ti·ki·ni·to ένα αυτοκίνητο ΚΙΝΔΥΝΟΣ Danger
4WD e·na tes·se·ra ένα τέσσερα ΑΡΓΑ Slow Down
e·pi tes·se·ra επί τέσσερα ΕΞΟΔΟΣ Exit
(a jeep) (e·na tzip) (ένα τζιπ)
motorbike mya mo·to·si· μια μοτοσυ- The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...)
klet·ta κλέττα to af·to·ki·ni·to/mo·to·si·klet·ta cha·la·se sto ...
bicycle e·na po·dhi·la·to ένα ποδήλατο Το αυτοκίνητο/η μοτοσυκλέττα χάλασε στο ...
The car/motorbike won’t start.
Is this the road to ...? to af·to·ki·ni·to/mo·to·si·klet·ta dhen per·ni· bros
af·tos i·ne o dhro·mos ya ... Το αυτοκίνητο/η μοτοσυκλέττα δεν παίρνει μπρος.
Αυτός είναι ο δρόμος για ... I have a flat tyre.
Where’s the next service station? e·pa·tha la·sti·cho
pu i·ne to e·po·me·no ven·zi·na·dhi·ko Επαθα λάστιχο.
Πού είναι το επόμενο βενζινάδικο; I’ve run out of petrol.
Please fill it up. e·mi·na a·po ven·zi·ni
ye·mi·ste to pa·ra·ka·lo Εμεινα από βενζίνη.
Γεμίστε το, παρακαλώ. I’ve had an accident.
I’d like (30) euros worth. e·pa·tha a·ti·chi·ma
tha i·the·la (30) ev·ro Επαθα ατύχημα.
Θα ήθελα (30) ευρώ.
TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN
diesel pet·re·le·o ki·ni·sis πετρέλαιο κίνησης Is there a/an ...?
i·par·chi ... Υπάρχει ...;
leaded petrol su·per σούπερ I need a/an ...chri·a·zo·me ... Χρειάζομαι ...
unleaded petrol a·mo·liv·dhi αμόλυβδη baby change me·ros nal·lak·so μέρος ν’αλλάξω
room to mo·ro το μωρό
Can I park here? car baby seat ka·this·ma ya κάθισμα για
bo·ro na par·ka·ro e·dho mo·ro μωρό
LANGUAGE

Μπορώ να παρκάρω εδώ; child-minding ba·bi sit·ter μπέιμπι σίττερ

Where do I pay? service
pu pli·ro·no children’s menu me·nu ya pe·dhya μενού για παιδία
Πού πληρώνω; (disposable) pan·nez Pam·pers πάννες Pampers
nappies/diapers
(English- ba·bi sit·ter μπέιμπι σίττερ
speaking) pu mi·la που μιλά
babysitter an·ghl·ika αγγλικά
highchair pe·dhi·ki ka·rek·la παιδική καρέκλα
potty yo·yo γιογιό
stroller ka·rot·sa·ki καροτσάκι

Do you mind if I breastfeed here?

bo·ro na thi·la·so e·dho
Μπορώ να θηλάσω εδώ;
Also available from Lonely Planet: Are children allowed?
Greek Phrasebook e·pi·tre·pon·de ta pe·dhya
Επιρέπονται τα παιδιά;
 241

Glossary
Achaean civilisation – see Mycenaean civilisation delfini – dolphin; common name for hydrofoil
acropolis – highest point of an ancient city dimarhio – town hall
agia (f ), agios (m), agii (pl) – saint(s) Dimotiki – Demotic Greek language; the official spoken
agora – commercial area of an ancient city; shopping language of Greece
precinct in modern Greece domatio (s), domatia (pl) – room; a cheap form of
amphora – large two-handled vase in which wine or oil accommodation in most tourist areas
was kept Dorians – Hellenic warriors who invaded Greece around
architrave – part of the entablature that rests on the 1200 BC, demolishing the city-states and destroying the
columns of a temple Mycenaean civilisation; heralded Greece’s dark age, when
arhontika – 17th- and 18th-century-AD mansions that the artistic and cultural advancements of the Mycenaeans
belonged to arhons, the leading citizens of a town and Minoans were abandoned; the Dorians later developed
into land-holding aristocrats, encouraging the resurgence
baglama – miniature bouzouki with a tinny sound of independent city-states led by wealthy aristocrats
basilica – early Christian church Doric – order of Greek architecture characterised by a
bouleuterion – council house column that has no base, a fluted shaft and a relatively
bouzouki – stringed lute-like instrument associated with plain capital, when compared with the flourishes evident
rembetika music on Ionic and Corinthian capitals
bouzoukia – any nightclub where the bouzouki is played
and low-grade folk songs are sung; see also skyladika ELPA – Elliniki Leshi Periigiseon & Aftokinitou; Greek
Byzantine Empire – characterised by the merging motoring and touring club
of Hellenistic culture and Christianity and named after ELTA – Ellinika Tahydromia; Greek post office
Byzantium, the city on the Bosphorus that became the entablature – part of a temple between the tops of the
capital of the Roman Empire in AD 324; when the Roman columns and the roof
Empire was formally divided in AD 395, Rome went into EOS – Ellinikos Orivatikos Syllogos; the association of
decline and the eastern capital, renamed Constantinople Greek Mountaineering Clubs
after Emperor Constantine I, flourished; the Byzantine EOT – Ellinikos Organismos Tourismou; Greek National
Empire dissolved after the fall of Constantinople to the Tourism Organisation
Turks in 1453 Epitaphios – structure depicting Christ on his bier,
decorated for the Easter procession
caïque – small, sturdy fishing boat estiatorio – restaurant
capital – top of a column
cella – room in a temple where the cult statue stood faïence – an ancient glazing technique that uses quartz
choregos – wealthy citizen who financed choral and instead of glass
dramatic performances Filiki Eteria – friendly society; a group of Greeks in
classical Greece – period in which the Greek city- exile; formed during Ottoman rule to organise an uprising
states reached the height of their wealth and power against the Turks
after the defeat of the Persians in the 5th century BC; fluted – of a column having vertical indentations on the
ended with the decline of the city-states as a result of the shaft
Peloponnesian Wars, and the expansionist aspirations of FPA – foros prostithemenis axias; Value Added Tax, or VAT
Philip II, King of Macedon (r 359–336 BC) and his son, frieze – part of the entablature, which is above the
Alexander the Great (r 336–323 BC) architrave
Corinthian – order of Greek architecture recognisable by
columns with bell-shaped capitals with sculpted elaborate galaktopoleio (s), galaktopoleia (pl) – a shop that
ornaments based on acanthus leaves sells dairy products
GLOSSARY

cornice – the upper part of the entablature, extending Geometric period (1200–800 BC) – the period
beyond the frieze characterised by pottery decorated with geometric designs;
cyclopes – mythical one-eyed giants sometimes referred to as Greece’s dark age

dark age (1200–800 BC) – period in which Greece was Hellas, Ellas or Ellada – the Greek name for Greece
under the rule of the Dorians Hellenistic period – prosperous, influential period
 242 GLOSSARY

of Greek civilisation ushered in by Alexander the Great’s and characterised by pottery and metalwork of great
empire-building and lasting until the Roman sacking of beauty and artisanship; it has three periods: Protopalatial
Corinth in 146 BC (3400–2100 BC), Neopalatial (2100–1580 BC) and
hora – main town, usually on an island Postpalatial (1580–1200 BC)
mitata – round stone shepherd’s huts
iconostasis – altar screen embellished with icons moni – monastery or convent
ikonostasia – miniature chapels Mycenaean civilisation (1900–1100 BC) – first
Ionic – order of Greek architecture characterised by a great civilisation of the Greek mainland, characterised
column with truncated flutes and capitals with ornaments by powerful independent city-states ruled by kings; also
resembling scrolls known as the Achaean civilisation

kafeneio (s), kafeneia (pl) – traditionally a male-only narthex – porch of a church

coffee house where cards and backgammon are played Nea Dimokratia – New Democracy; conservative
kalderimi – cobbled footpath political party
kastro – caste, fortress, bastion necropolis – literally ‘city of the dead’; ancient cemetery
katholikon – principal church of a monastic complex nomarhia – prefecture building
kefi – an indefinable feeling of good spirit, without which nomos – prefectures into which the regions and island
no Greek can have a good time groups of Greece are divided
kilimia – flat-woven rugs that were traditional dowry nymphaeum – in ancient Greece, building containing a
gifts fountain and often dedicated to nymphs
Koine – Greek language used in pre-Byzantine times; the
language of the church liturgy odeion – ancient Greek indoor theatre
kore – female statue of the Archaic period; see also kouros odos – street
kouros – male statue of the Archaic period, characterised OTE – Organismos Tilepikinonion Elladas; national
by a stiff body posture and enigmatic smile telephone carrier
kri-kri – endemic Cretan animal similar to a goat oud – a bulbous, stringed instrument with a sharply
KTEL – Kino Tamio Eispraxeon Leoforion; national bus raked-back head
cooperative, which runs all long-distance bus services ouzeri – place that serves ouzo and light snacks

labrys – double-axe symbol of Minoan civilization Panagia – Mother of God; name frequently used for
lammergeier – bearded vulture churches
leoforos – avenue Pandokrator – painting or mosaic of Christ in the centre
libation – in ancient Greece, wine or food that was of the dome of a Byzantine church
offered to the gods pandopoleio – general store
Linear A – Minoan script; so far undeciphered paralia – waterfront
Linear B – Mycenaean script; has been deciphered parapente – paragliding
lyra – small violin-like instrument, played on the knee; pediment – triangular section, often filled with sculpture
common in Cretan and Pontian music above the columns, found at the front and back of a
classical Greek temple
malaka – literally ‘wanker’; used as a familiar term of periptero (s), periptera (pl) – street kiosk
address, or as an insult, depending on context peristyle – columns surrounding a building, usually a
manga – ‘wide boy’ or ‘dude’; originally a person of the temple or courtyard
underworld, now any streetwise person pinakothiki – picture gallery
mandinada (s), mandinades (pl) – traditional Cretan pithos (s), pithoi (pl) – large Minoan storage jar
rhyming song/s, often with improvised lyrics plateia – square
mayirefta – pre-made casseroles and bakes served at propylon (s), propylaia (pl) – elaborately built main
tavernas and other eateries entrance to an ancient city or sanctuary; a propylon had
megaron – central room of a Mycenaean palace one gateway and a propylaia more than one
meltemi – northeasterly wind that blows throughout prytaneion – the administrative centre of the city-state
GLOSSARY

much of Greece in the summer

metope – sculpted section of a Doric frieze raki – Crete’s fiery spirit, distilled from grapes
mezedopoleio – mezes restaurant rembetika – blues songs commonly associated with the
mezes (s), mezedes (pl) – appetiser/s underworld of the 1920s
Minoan civilisation (3000–1200 BC) – Bronze Age rhyton – another name for a libation vessel
culture of Crete named after the mythical King Minos rizitika – traditional, patriotic songs of western Crete
 © Lonely Planet Publications
G L O S S A R Y 243

santouri – hammered dulcimer from Asia Minor temblon – votive screen

skyladika – literally ‘dog songs’ (and the venues they’re tholos – Mycenaean tomb shaped like a beehive
sung in); popular, but not lyrically challenging, often sung toumberleki – small lap drum played with the fingers
in bouzoukia nightclubs triglyph – sections of a Doric frieze between the metopes
spileo – cave trireme – ancient Greek galley with three rows of oars
stele (s), stelae (pl) – gravestone that stands upright on each side
stoa – long colonnaded building, usually in an agora; used tsikoudia – also called raki, the Cretan distilled spirit
as a meeting place and shelter in ancient Greece from grapes

tahydromio (s), tahydromia (pl) – post office volta – promenade; evening stroll, outing or excursion
taverna – traditional restaurant that serves food and wine volute – spiral decoration on Ionic capitals

GLOSSARY

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 © Lonely Planet Publications
251

Index
A apartments 210 Battle of Crete Museum 153
accommodation 208-10 Apostoli 132 beaches 19
language 234, 236 Aptera 119 Afrata 108
activities 70-6, see also individual aquariums 161 Agia Irini 141
activities Aradena 97 Agias Fotias 205
Adele 133 Archaeological Museum (Agios Agioi Apostoli 84
Agia Fotini 133 Nikoloas) 181-2 Agios Ioannis 106
Agia Galini 142-3 Archaeological Museum (Hania) 82 Agios Pavlos 141-2
Agia Irini Beach 141 Archaeological Museum (Ierapetra) 202 Almyros 183

INDEX
Agia Irini Gorge 101-2 Archaeological Museum (Rethymno) Ambelos 201
Agia Marina 91 125 Ammoudara 183
Agia Paraskevi chapel 206 Archaeological Museum (Sitia) 194 Bali 144-5
Agia Roumeli 95-6 Archaeological Museum of Arhanes 164 Balos 111, 8
Agia Sofia Cave 113 Archaeological Museum of Iraklio 7, Damnoni 141
Agia Triada 171-2, 171 149, 152, 6 Elafonisi 115-16
Agias Fotias 205 Archaeological Museum of Kissamos Gialiskari 105
Agiofarango Gorge 174 109-10 Golden 183
Agios Antonios church 166 archaeological sites Hiona 198
Agios Georgios 191-2 Agia Triada 171-2, 171 Hrysi Akti 84
Agios Georgios church (Ierapetra) 202 Gortyna 168-9, 169 Itanos 197
Agios Ioannis 202 Knossos 158-61 Kalamaki 84
Agios Ioannis Beach 106 Kommos 174 Kalathas 89
Agios Kirkos 102 Lebena 176 Kato Zakros 199
Agios Markos Basilica 153 Palace of Malia 178-9, 178 Kokkini Ammos 173
Agios Minas Cathedral 153 Phaestos 169-71, 170 Kouremenos 198
Agios Nikolaos 83, 181-6, 185 Roussolakkos 197-8 Lendas 176
Agios Pavlos 141-2 architecture, Maroulas 132 Makrigialos 205
Agora (Hania) 83 Argyroupolis 12, 130-1 Marathi 90
Agreco 133 Arhanes 163-4 Marble 99
Agricultural & Folklife Museum 162 Armeni 131-2 Marmara 97
agrotourism 136 Arolithos 162 Mazidas Beach 201
air travel 221-3 art galleries, see museums nudist 103
Greece, travel from 223 arts 45-54, see also pottery, jewellery, Panormo 143-4
Akrotiri Peninsula 89-90 sculpture Potamos 107
Almyrida 118 Byzantine 47-8 Preveli 138, 141-2
Amari Valley 132-3 Cretan School 48 Pyrgos 107
Ambelos Beach 201 Asi Gonia 130 Sarakinikos 106
Ammoudara Beach 183 Askyfou 94 Souda 141
Amygdalokefali 114 Asomatos 140 Tersanas 89
Anatoli 206 Aspros Potamos 206 Triopetra 141-2
Ancient Kydonia 83 ATMs 215 Vai 9, 197
Ancient Minoa 90 automobile associations 228 beer 57, 132
animals 66-7, see also individual Avdou 166 Bembo Fountain 153
animals bicycling, see cycling
endangered species 67 B birds 67, see individual species
Anogia 136-7, 12 Bali 144-5 bird-watching 67
Anopoli 97 Balos 111, 8 Bramiana Dam 206
antiques 217 bathrooms 218 Georgioupolis 116
Anydri 105 Battle of Crete 34, 36 Livada Lake 165
Anydri Gorge 105 Souda Bay War Cemetery 91 blue rock thrush 67
 252 Index (B-F)

boat travel, see ferry travel Church of San Rocco 83 D

books 18 Church of San Salvatore 83 Daly, Ross 165
Bramiana Dam 206 Church of the Panagia 92 Damnoni Beach 141
bungee jumping 75 Church of the Panayia 162 dance 48-9
Vardinogiannis bridge 97 churches deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 231-2
bus travel 227, 230 Agia Paraskevi chapel 206 Dikteon Cave 192
business hours 210-11 Agios Antonios church 166 Diktynna 108-9
Byzantine and Post Byzantine Agios Georgios 202 disabilities, travellers with 219-20
Collection of Hania 83 Agios Ioannis 202 diving & snorkelling 75
Chapel of Metamorfosis Bali 144
C Sotiros 92 Elounda 188
camping 209 Church of Agios Antonios 133 Hania 83
canyoning 74 Church of Agios Georgios 105 Iraklio 154
car travel 224, 227-30 Church of Agios Ioannis 131 Paleohora 103
INDEX

driving licence 228 Church of Agios Titos 153 Rethymno 126

rental 228 Church of Episkopi 135 dolphin watching 103
road distance chart 229 Church of Panagia Kera 187 domatia 209
road rules 229-30 Church of San Rocco 83 Dourakis winery 95
spare parts 228 Church of San Salvatore 83 drinks 56-8
carnival celebration 126 Church of the Panagia 92
Casa dei Mezzo music festival 205 Church of the Panayia 162 E
caves Metamorphosis tou Sotira 141 E4 walking trail 71, 72
Agia Sofia Cave 113 Panagia church (Agia Roumeli) Easter 45, 213
Dikteon Cave 192 96 eco-lodges 210
Ideon Andron Cave 138-9 Panagia Pigadiotissa church 165 economy 42-3
Kronios Cave 191 Saint Maria of Egypt 94 ecotourism 115
Matala 172-3, 9 St Mary’s Church 131 El Greco 49
Melidoni Cave 135 climate 17, 211 Elafonisi 115-16
Milatos Cave 190 climate change 222 electricity 208
Sfendoni Cave 135 climbing 74-5 Eleftherna 134
Spilia Tou Drakou 205-6 coffee 56 Elounda 188-9
cell phones 218 consulates 212-13 embassies 212-13
Cemetery of Armeni 131 costs 17, see also inside front cover emergencies, see also inside front cover
Centre for Byzantine Art 125 courses 211 language 238
Centre for Contemporary Art 126 cooking 63 environment 66-9
ceramics 217 language 211 climate change 222
Chapel of Metamorfosis Sotiros 92 yoga 211 hazards 232-3
children, travel with 211 credit cards 216 environmental issues 68-9
Agios Nikoloas 183 Cretan diet 57 Epavli 205
Cretaquarium 161 Cretan Historical & Folk Museum Episkopi 130, 135
food 62 164 Etz Hayyim Synagogue 83
Hania 84 Cretan House Folklore Museum 83 Evans, Sir Arthur 159, 162
health 233 Cretan identity 40-1 exchange rates, see also inside front
Iraklio 153-4 Cretaquarium 161 cover
language 240 culture 40-54
Christianity 29-30, 44 customs & traditions 42 F
Church of Agios Antonios 133 gender roles 44-5 F1 trail 114
Church of Agios Ioannis 131 identity 40-1 Falasarna 112-13, 114
Church of Agios Titos 153 multiculturalism 43-4 Feast of Agios Yiorgos (St George) 213
Church of Episkopi 135 customs & traditions 42 ferry travel 224-6, 226
Church of Panagia Kera 187 customs regulations 211-12 island hopping 224
cycling 73, 226 to/from Crete 225
000 Map pages Hania 83 festivals & special events 19, 213-14
000 Photograph pages Lasithi Plateau 191 carnival celebration 126
Rethymno 126 Casa dei Mezzo music festival 205
 Index (F-I) 253

chestnut festival 113 golf 76 Hania 83

Easter 45 Hersonisos 177 Imbros Gorge 95
Hania 84 gorges Iraklio 154
Kornaria Festival 195 Agia Irini Gorge 101-2 Mt Psiloritis 137-8
Kyrvia Festival 203-4 Agiofarango Gorge 174 Rethymno 126
Lato Cultural Festival 183 Anydri Gorge 105 Samaria Gorge 93-4, 94, 9
Renaissance Festival 126 Ha Gorge 205 Hiona Beach 198
Sultana Festival 195 Imbros Gorge 95 hippies 173
Wine Festival 126 itinerary 22 Historical & Folk Art Museum 125
film 52-4 Kourtaliotis Gorge 138 Historical Museum & Archives 83
Firkas Fortress 82 most accessible 70-2 Historical Museum of Crete 152
fishing Perivolakia Gorge 205 history 23-39
Agios Nikolas 183 Rouvas Gorge 167 Battle of Crete 34, 36
Elounda 188 Samaria Gorge 93-4, 94, 9 Byzantine rule 29-30

INDEX
Fodele 161-2 Sirikari Gorge 111 Christianity 29-30
Folk Museum (Agios Nikoloas) 183 Valley of the Dead 199 Classical Age 28
Folk Museum of Arhanes 164 Zakros Gorge 199 democracy 35-7
Folk Museum of Palekastro 198 Gortyna 7, 168-9, 169 Dorian rule 27-8
Folklore Museum (Agios Georgios) 192 Gournia 192-3 Greece, relationship with 33
Folklore Museum (Gavalohori) 120 Gramvousa Peninsula 111-12 Greek War of Independence 31
Folklore Museum (Sitia) 194 Great Arsenal 83 Minoan civilisation 23-5
food 55-6, 59-61, 214 Greek Orthodox Church 44 modern Crete 37-9
cooking courses 63 Greek War of Independence 31 Mycenaean civilisation 25-7
Cretan diet 57 Gulf of Hania 91-2 Ottoman rule 31-3
customs 60, 62-3 gun culture 43 politicians 39
festivals 58 politics 35-7
Hohliovradia 119 H Roman rule 28-9
Kroussaniotissa Cooperative 163 Ha Gorge 205 Venetian rule 30-1
olive oil 56 Hania 78-89, 80-1, 10 WWII 33-4, 35
Ravdouha 109 accommodation 84-5 hitching 230
sweet treats, Rethymno 129 activities 83-4 holidays 214-15
village taverns 130 attractions 82-3 Hora Sfakion 96-7
football 44 children, travel with 84 horse riding 76
fortresses entertainment 87 Avdou 166
Firkas Fortress 82 festivals & special events 84 hostels 209
Frangokastello 98 food 85-7 hotels 209-10
Ierapetra medieval fortress 202 history 78 Houdetsi 164-5
Koules Venetian fortress 153 internet access 78, 82 Hrysi Island 204-5
Spinalonga Island 190 medical services 82 human sacrifice 165
Fourni 164 shopping 87-8
Fournou-Korifi 207 tourist information 82 I
Frangokastello 98, 10 tours 84 Ideon Andron Cave 138-9
travel to/from 88 Ierapetra 202-4, 203
G travel within 88-9 Ierapetra medieval fortress 202
Gaidouronisi 204-5 Hania region 77-120, 79 Imbros 95
Garazo 135 health 231-3 Imbros Gorge 95
Gavalohori 120 Cretan diet 57 Imeri Gramvousa 112
Gavdos 106-7 insurance 215 immigration 221
gay travellers 214 language 237-8 Innahorion 113-14
geography 66 Hellenic Conservatory 125-6 insurance 215
geology 66 Hercules 149 health 231
Georgioupolis 116-17 Hersonisos 177 International Student Identity Card 212
Gerakari 133 hiking 70-3 internet access 215
Gialiskari Beach 105-6 E4 walking trail 71, 72 internet resources 18-19
Golden Beach 183 F1 trail 114 health 231
 254 Index (I-M)

Iraklio 147-58, 150-1 Komitades 95 Margarites 134, 11

accommodation 154-5 Kommos 174 Marmara Beach 97
activities 154 Kornaria Festival 195 Maroulas 130, 132
attractions 149-53 Koules Venetian fortress 153 mass tourism 179
children, travel with 153-4 Koumos 119 Matala 9, 172-3, 9
entertainment 156-7 Kouremenos 198 Mazidas Beach 201
festivals & special events 154 Kournas Village 117 measures 208, see also inside front
food 155-6 Kourtaliotis Gorge 138 cover
history 147 Koutouloufari 177-8 medical services 232, see also health
internet access 149 Koutsomatados 113 Melidoni Cave 135
medical services 149 Koutsomatados Ravine 113 Meronas 133
shopping 157 kri-kri goat 67, 93, 190 Metamorphosis tou Sotira 141
tourist information 149 Kritsa 186-7 metric conversions, see inside front
travel to/from 157-8 Kronios Cave 191 cover
INDEX

travel within 158 Krousonas 163 mezedes 59-60

Iraklio region 146-79, 148 Kyrvia Festival 203-4 migrants in Crete 43-4
Iris Museum 183 Milatos 190-1
Itanos 197 L Milatos Cave 190
itineraries 20-2 Labyrinth Musical Workshop 164 Milia 12, 115
Lake Kournas 117 Military Museum (Askyfou) 94
J Lakki 92 Minoan civilisation 23-5
jewellery 217 lammergeier (bearded vulture) 67 art & culture 45-7
language 234-40 bull imagery 48
K conversation 236 itinerary 22
Kalamafka 206 food vocabulary 63-5 tsunami 26
Kalamaki 175 transliteration & variant Tylisos 162
Kalathas 89 spellings 237 Minoan sites
Kalyves 117-18 Lasithi Plateau 191-2 Agia Triada 171-2, 171
Kamares 167 Lasithi region 180-207, 182 Anemospilia 164
Kambos 114 Lato, Ancient 187-8 Fourni 164
Kamilari 174-5 Lato Cultural Festival 183 Fournou-Korifi 207
Kapetaniana 175-6 leather work 218 Gournia 192-3
Kara Musa Pasha Mosque 125 Lebena 176 Itanos 197
Karamanlis, Kostas 37, 39 Lefka Ori 9, 92-5, 8 Karfi 191
Karfi 191 legal matters 215 Palace of Malia 178-9, 178, 7
Kastri 176-7 Lendas 176 Petras 194
Katharo Plateau 187 lesbian travellers 214 Phaestos 169-71
Kato Zakros 199 Linear B script 25, 27 Pyrgos 207
kayaking 75 Lissos 102 Roussolakkos 197-8
Kazantzakis, Nikos 35, 51, 53 literature 18, 51-2 Vathypetro Villa 164
Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 162 Livada Lake 165 Zakros 199
tomb 153 loggerhead sea turtles 69 Zakros Palace 199-201
Kefali 113 Georgioupolis 116 Minos, King 24, 160
Keratokambos 176-7 Loggia (Iraklio) 153 Mithridatic War 28
Kissamos-Kastelli 109-10 Loggia (Rethymno) 125 mobile phones 218
knives 217 Loutro 98-100 Mohlos 193-4
Knossos 7, 158-61, 6 walks around 99 monasteries
Palace of Knossos 7, 160-61, 159 6 Lychnostatis Museum 177 Aptera 119
Kokkini Ammos 173 Monastiri Tou Karolou 83
Kolokytha Peninsula 189-90 M Moni Agia Irinis 131
Kolymbari 108 Makrigialos 205 Moni Agias Triadas 89
Maleme 91 Moni Agiou Andoniou Vrondisiou
000 Map pages Malia 7, 177, 7 167
000 Photograph pages maps 215 Moni Agiou Nikolaou 167
Marble Beach 99 Moni Arkadiou 134
 Index (M-P) 255

Moni Gonia 108 Archaeological Museum (Hania) 82 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 162
Moni Gouvernetou 89 Archaeological Museum (Ierape- Potamianos Wax Museum 135
Moni Hrysoskalitissas 115 tra) 202 Vatsiana 107
Moni Ioannou Erimiti 89-90 Archaeological Museum music 49-51, 52
Moni Kapsa 205 (Rethymno) 125 Casa dei Mezzo music festival 205
Moni Odigitrias 174 Archaeological Museum (Sitia) Museum of Musical Instruments
Moni Preveli 140 194 164
Moni Toplou 196-7 Archaeological Museum of Arhanes Xylouris, Nikos 50, 51
Monastiri Tou Karolou 83 164 Mycenaean civilisation 25-7
money 17, 215, see also inside front Archaeological Museum of Iraklio Myrthios 140
cover 149, 152, 6 Myrtia 162-3
discount cards 212 Archaeological Museum of Kis- Myrtos 206-7
moneychangers 216 samos 109-10 Myrtos Museum 207
Moni Agia Irinis 131 Battle of Crete Museum 153

INDEX
Moni Agias Triadas 89 Byzantine and Post Byzantine N
Moni Agiou Andoniou Vrondisiou 167 Collection of Hania 83 Napoleon’s house 202-3
Moni Agiou Nikolaou 167 Centre for Contemporary Art 126 national parks 68
Moni Arkadiou 134 Cretan Historical and Folk Museum Samaria Gorge 9, 68, 93-4, 94, 9
Moni Gonia 108 164 Natural History Museum of Crete
Moni Gouvernetou 89 Cretan House Folklore Museum 83 152-3
Moni Hrysoskalitissas 115 Folk Museum (Agios Nikoloas) 183 Naval Museum (Hania) 82
Moni Ioannou Erimiti 89-90 Folk Museum of Arhanes 164 Nerantzes Mosque 125
Moni Kapsa 205 Folk Museum of Palekastro 198 New Democracy (ND) party 35, 36-7
Moni Odigitrias 174 Folklore Museum (Agios Georgios) newspapers 208
Moni Preveli 140 192 Nida Plateau 137
Moni Toplou 196-7 Folklore Museum (Gavalohori) 120 Nikos Doxastakis workshop 165
Morosini Fountain 153 Folklore Museum (Sitia) 194 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 162
mosques Historical & Folk Art Museum 125 nudist beaches 103
Kara Musa Pasha Mosque 125 Historical Museum & Archives 83
Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 82 Historical Museum of Crete 152 O
Nerantzes Mosque 125 Iris Museum 183 olive oil 56
motorcycle travel 224 Lychnostatis Museum 177 Union of Agricultural Cooperatives
driving licence 228 Military Museum (Askyfou) 94 of Sitia 194
rental 228-9 Moni Arkadiou 134 Olympic Games, 2004 37
road rules 229-30 Moni Hrysoskalitissas 115 Omalos 92-3
Mt Psiloritis 137-8 Moni Preveli 140 Orthodox Church 30
mountain biking, see cycling Moni Toplou 197 Ottoman rule of Crete 31-3
mountain refuges 210 Municipal Art Gallery (Hania) 83 outdoor activities 70-6
mountaineering 74-5 Municipal Art Gallery (Iraklio) 153 companies 73
Hania 83 Municipal Art Gallery (Rethymno)
Municipal Art Gallery (Hania) 83 126 P
Municipal Art Gallery (Iraklio) 153 Museum of Cretan Ethnology 172 packing 18
Municipal Art Gallery (Rethymno) 126 Museum of Musical Instruments painting
Museum of Cretan Ethnology 172 164 El Greco 49
Museum of Musical Instruments 164 Museum of National Resistance 93 Palace of Knossos 7, 160-61, 159, 6
Museum of National Resistance 93 Museum of Papa Mihalis Georgou- see also Knossos
Museum of Papa Mihalis lakis 140 Palace of Malia 178-9, 178
Georgoulakis 140 Museum of Religious Art 153 Palekastro 197-8
Museum of Religious Art 153 Museum of the Acritans of Europe Paleohora 102-5, 104
Museum of the Acritans of Europe 103 103 Panagia 102
Museum of Village Life 131 Museum of Village Life 131 Panagia church (Agia Roumeli) 96
museums Myrtos Museum 207 Panagia Pigadiotissa church 165
Agricultural & Folklife Museum 162 Natural History Museum of Crete Panormo 143-4
Archaeological Museum (Agios 152 Papandreou, Andreas 36, 39
Nikoloas) 181-2 Naval Museum (Hania) 82 Pappadiana 113-14
 256 Index (P-V )

paragliding 76 medical services 123 telephone services 218

Avdou 166 shopping 129 Temenos 163
PASOK party 36-7 sights 123-6 Theatro Agron 163
passports 221 tourist information 123 Theriso 93
Perama 135 tours 126 Thrapsano 165
Perivolakia Gorge 205 travel to/from 129-30 Thronos 133-4
Perivolia 113 travel within 130 time 218
Petras 194 Rethymno fortezza 123-4 tipping 216
Phaestos 7, 169-71, 170 Rethymno region 121-45, 122 toilets 218
photography 216 Rimondi Fountain 125 Topolia 113
Pitsidia 173 Rodakino 141 tourist information 219
Plaka 118-19, 190 Rodopou Peninsula 107-9 tourist police 219
Plakias 138-40 Rouvas Gorge 167 tours 219
planning 17-19, see also itineraries traditional houses & villas 210
INDEX

discount cards 212 S train travel 224

holidays 214-15 safe travel travel insurance 215
plants 67-8 hitching 230 travellers cheques 216
Platanias 91 St John the Hermit 89-90 trekking, see hiking
Platanos 114 Saint Maria of Egypt 94 Triopetra 141-2
politics 39 Samaria 94 TV 208
Polyrizos-Koraka 141 Samaria Gorge 9, 68, 93-4, 94, 9 Tylisos 162
Polyrrinia 111 Schliemann, Heinrich 159 Tzermiado 191
population 43 Selekano forest 206
Porto Guora 125 senior travellers 218 U
postal services 216-17 senior cards 212 Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of
Potamianos Wax Museum 135 Sfakia 92-5 Sitia 194
pottery 27, 46 Sfendoni Cave 135
Margarites 134, 11 shopping 217-18 V
Thrapsano 11, 165 language 239 vacations 214-15
Prevelakis, Pandelis 52 Sirikari Gorge 111 vaccinations 231
Preveli Beach 138, 141-2 Sitia 194-6 ,195 Vai 9, 197
Psarantonis 50 Skinakas Observatory 137 Valley of the Dead 199
Psyhro 192 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Vamos 119
Pyrgos 207 solo travellers 218 Vardinogiannis bridge 97
Souda 90-1 Vasilakis Pottery 165
R Souda Bay War Cemetery 91 Vathypetro Villa 164
raki 58 Sougia 100-1 Vatsiana 107
Union of Agricultural Cooperatives spas 189 vegetarian travellers 61
of Sitia 194 Spili 133-4 vendettas in Crete 97
Ravdouha 109 Spilia Tou Drakou 205-6 Venetian castle (Paleohora) 102
religion 44 Spinalonga Island 190 Venetian harbour (Rethymno)
Renaissance Festival 126, 214 spirits 57 125
resorts 209-10 Splantzia quarter 83 Venetian lighthouse (Hania) 82
Rethymno 122-30, 124-5, 11 sports 44 Venetian rule of Crete 30-1
accommodation 126-8 Stavros 89 video systems 208
activities 126 Sultana Festival 195 videography 216
entertainment 129 Summer Arts Festival 214 village taverns 130
festivals & special events 126 swimming villages, top Cretan 19
food 128-9 Hania 83-4 visas 219, see also passports
history 122-3 Iraklio 154 Vlatos 113
internet access 123 Voila 205
T Vori 172
000 Map pages taxis 230 Vorizia 167
000 Photograph pages telephone directory 219, see also Voulgaro 113
inside front cover Vryses 120
 © Lonely Planet Publications
I n d e x ( W - Z ) 257

W Wine Festival 126 Y

walking itineraries wineries yachting 76, 226
Loutro 99 Dourakis winery 95
Paleohora-Sougia 106 South Iraklio 166 Z
Zakros 200 women in Crete 44-5 Zakros 7, 199
weather 17, 211 women travellers 218, 220 walks around 200
weaving 218 women’s health 233 Zakros Gorge 199
wedding, traditional Cretan work 220 Zakros Palace 199-201, 201
Anogia 137 WWII 33-4, 35 Zaros 166-8
Kritsa 186 Battle of Crete 34, 36 Zaros bottling plant 167
weights 208, see also inside front Battle of Crete Museum 153 Zeus 16
cover Souda Bay War Cemetery 91 Dikteon Cave 192
windsurfing 75-6 Ideon Andron Cave 138-9
Almyrida 118 X Zoniana 135

INDEX
Kouremenos 198 Xerokambos 201-4 Zorba the Greek 18, 51, 53, 89
wine 57-8 Xylouris, Nikos 50, 51 Stavros 89

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’