study guide: PoweR Tools

Learning Objectives:
• The features and benefits of power tools.
• How to answer your customers’ product-related questions.
• How to help your customer choose the right products.
• How to increase transaction sizes by learning more about add-on sales.

Chapter 1: Portable Tools

Module 1: Drills and Drivers

Product Knowledge:

Power Drill
• Has different chuck capacities, such as 1/4”, 3/8” or 1/2”. For example, 1/4” means that is the
largest diameter shank that will fit the chuck. The speed of the drill also increases with the size.
• Motor load limit can be light-, medium- or heavy-duty. The higher the amp rating, the more
powerful the drill. Drills rated at 2A are generally considered light-duty drills, while 5A drills are
considered heavy-duty.
• Use a chuck to tighten the drill bit in place. A keyed chuck uses a rotary key to tighten and loosen
the chuck. You can tighten a keyless chuck by hand.
• Another feature on some drills is variable speed. Variable speed drills allow you to control the
drill’s revolutions per minute, usually by varying pressure on the trigger switch. Some models also
allow you to vary the torque. Higher torque is better for driving screws, and higher speed is better
for drilling holes.
• A drill should also have a reverse, which allows you to back a drill bit out from the hole.

Hammer Drill
• Drills quickly through concrete, stone, block and brick.
• While the drill turns, it vibrates the chuck back and forth or side-to-side to help the bit chip the
material while it is drilling.
• Many models have a mode selector, allowing you to choose rotation only, like a conventional drill.
You can also switch to hammer drill mode, which combines the drill and hammer action. Better
models might offer a hammer only mode for chisel and scraper attachments.
• Do not confuse with a rotary hammer, which can accommodate core bits up to 6” in diameter.
These tools have unique bit drive and retention methods rather than the conventional
geared chuck.
• Manufacturers will measure speed by rpm (revolutions per minute), and the hammer action by
bpm (blows per minute).

1
 Impact Driver
• Drives or loosens long screws, bolts and other fasteners.
• Where a hammer drill operates with a back-and-forth, hammer-type motion, an impact driver
applies a rotary force. In addition, an impact driver applies a high-pressure torque when it
encounters a higher opposing torque.
• While this tool can be used to drill holes, it is not suited for delicate tasks, as its high power
could cause damage to the work piece.
• This tool requires a special hexagonal shank bit.
• It is also non-reactionary, meaning that while a regular drill will seize and twist in your hands if it
encounters resistance, an impact driver will not.
• It is lightweight and easier to handle than a drill. It is also very loud, so you should use hearing
protection when operating one.

Angle Drill
• Has an angled head designed for tight fits and close-quarter drilling.
• Available in 3/8” or 1/2” sizes.
• Some models feature an angle attachment that rotates the drill into any position, while a side
handle allows one-hand operation and easy control.

Power Screwdriver
• There are several types of power screwdrivers.
• A common type is a variable-speed, reversible drywall screwdriver. It drives drywall, decking and
other self-drilling screws. It offers higher speeds than a power drill.
• A cordless screwdriver is handy for light-duty household applications. It has less power and
speed than a power drill, but is easier to handle.

Cordless Drill
• In addition to the characteristics of cordless tools listed above, here are some of the features
specific to cordless drills.
• An adjustable clutch lets you select the degree of force applied to the drill. This helps prevent the
motor from stalling and overheating, which can damage the battery.
• Variable speed allows you to control the speed of the drill. This is important because harder
materials require slower drilling, while a higher speed drilling is best for softer materials.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: If I buy a cordless drill, what volt model should I buy?

A: A 12V model will handle the needs of most d-i-yers. For bigger projects, a 14V or higher model is a good choice. For
lighter duty, a 9.6V model should be sufficient. For extended use, you should get two battery packs.

Q: What size of drill do you recommend for do-it-yourself projects?

A: Most consumers use a 3/8” model that reverses, has variable speed and has a keyless chuck. You should get one that
draws at least 3.5A. You also need to consider what type of material you will be drilling into. Drill softer materials at higher
speeds, while you’ll want a slower speed for harder materials such as metal or masonry. To ensure you’re ready for a vari-
ety of applications, choose a variable speed drill.

2
Q: How can I get more life out of my lithium ion battery?
A: First, don’t let the battery completely discharge before charging it again. Don’t let it go lower than 20% before
recharging. In fact, frequently charge the battery, even if it’s not at that 20% mark. You also want to store batteries
in a place where it’s cool, but not freezing. Don’t charge them at temperatures below 32°F or above 105°F. Extreme
temperatures will shorten their lifespan.

Q: What are some qualities of a good battery charger?

A: Better battery chargers have features that protect against overcharging and overheating, both of which can shorten
battery life. Also recommend chargers with rapid charge times to decrease tool downtime.

Upselling Skills

• Gear construction is a key factor in determining quality. Less expensive drills have plastic gears. More expensive
models have metal gears and will have longer life. However, some high-end models use high-impact plastic, which is
lightweight and just as durable as metal.
• Better drills have convenient features such as a built-in level or a depth gauge.
• Some drills might have a D-handle or side grip mounted on the housing to improve leverage.
• An electronic brake causes the drill to stop as soon as you release the trigger. (Typical drills take a few seconds to wind
down). Braking gives you more control over the device.
• Better cordless drills have brushless motors. Standard drills use brushes to relay a charge to the motor. Brushless
motors instead are controlled by a microprocessor chip. This is a more efficient design that results in a longer battery
run time, as well as more power and durability.
• Better drills have variable speed and a reversing action.
• Some drills include built-in LED lights to help illuminate the area where you are drilling.
• Better batteries have a fuel gauge that allows you to see if it’s time to charge the battery.

Add-on Items

• Recommend a set of drill bits so your customer will have a variety of sizes.
• An extension cord will provide added reach to any customer buying a corded tool.
• Customers buying a cordless tool may want an extra battery so they’ll always have one that’s charged.
• Offer a battery charger for those customers not buying a tool where the charger is already included.
• Recommend ear plugs, as many power tools can be noisy.
• Also recommend safety glasses and a dust mask as additional personal protection products.

3
Module 2: Saws

Product Knowledge:
Sidewinder Circular Saw
• Designed to make straight cuts on a variety of materials, and different types of materials
generally require different blades.
• This saw is more compact than a worm drive saw. Has the motor mounted on the side of
the blade.
• It requires less maintenance than worm-drive saws and does not have an oil-filled crankcase.
• The size of the saw tells you what is the largest size blade that you can use with it. Generally,
blade sizes range from 5-1/2” to 10” in diameter. 5-1/2” and 7-1/4” are the most popular. The
larger the blade, the thicker material it will cut.
• Saws are rated by amperage. Better tools have higher amp and rpm ratings.

Worm Drive Circular Saw

• Designed to make straight cuts on a variety of materials, and different types of materials
generally require different blades.
• The motor is inline with the handle and at a right angle to the blade arbor. It also has an
oil-filled crankcase.
• The worm gear style of power transmission means this saw has plenty of torque, which keeps it
from stalling in wet or pinched lumber. It also has better sightlines than a sidewinder style saw.
• Quieter operation than sidewinder saws, but heavier, usually 14 to 19 lbs.
• Most common blade size is 7-1/4”. Also available are 6-1/2” and 8-1/4” blades.

Trim Saw
• Small circular saw used to cut sheet goods, moldings and trim.
• Designed to make straight cuts a variety of materials, and different types of materials generally
require different blades.
• Some models can adapt to cut glass and ceramic tile.
• It is easy to handle and lightweight.

Jigsaw
• Also known as a sabre saw, it cuts with an up and down motion and is ideal for cutting curves
and irregular lines.
• More powerful models can cut through thicker wood and some can cut aluminum and thin steel.
• Quality machines operate at approximately 3,000 strokes per minute and have longer strokes.
• An electronic variable speed feature allows you to control the speed of the blade.
• Another type is a bayonet saw that has a large blade orbit to make it suitable for metals,
plastics, thin wood and laminate.

4
 Reciprocating Saw
• Commonly used for demolition, framing and rough-in work. Good for cutting in tight quarters.
• Uses a straight blade that operates with a back and forth motion and can use it on a variety of
materials. You’ll choose the type of blade you need depending on the material you’re cutting.
• Blade action usually goes to about 2,000 strokes per minute, but some pro models go higher.
• An adjustable shoe (or the flat part of the tool that guides the blades along the material) can help
extend the life of the blade.

Cordless Saw
• Many of the saws discussed above are available in cordless versions. While earlier generations
of these saws were limited in power, manufacturers continue to create better tools. Cordless
saws offer you more mobility. The features important when buying a cordless saw are similar to
the features you should consider when buying a corded one.
• For more general information about cordless tools, review “About Cordless Tools” in module one
of this chapter.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do you recognize a quality circular saw?

A: Look for amperage and types of bearings—top quality saws pull 12A or 13A and run on ball bearings. Lower-quality
saws use roller or sleeve bearings and are rated about 9A or 10A.

Q: This saw has a plastic housing. Does that mean it’s poor quality?
A: While plastic housings are not a sign of inferior quality, make sure the saw has extruded or cast metal base plates.
Stamped metal plates can warp. Also see how easy it is to see where the blade is cutting, is it easy to change the blade,
will it cut bevels, can you use a vacuum attachment and can you attach a rib fence guide?

Q: What should I look for when buying a saber saw?

A: Look to see if the mechanism for adjusting the base plate is sturdy. On less-expensive models these are weak and will
eventually wobble, making it difficult to cut accurately. Look for a model that draws 3A and has variable speed.

Q: What should I consider when choosing a reciprocating saw?

A: Generally, the higher the amp rating, the more cutting power. These saws range in size from about 4A to 11A. Another
good feature is variable speed that allows you to adjust the speed of the blade to match the material you are cutting. Also
look for orbital action that cuts more aggressively, an adjustable shoe to change the depth of the cut.

Q: What is the benefit of an orbital action saw?

A: Saws like the jigsaw and the reciprocating saw may have an orbital action cut. Orbital action is more aggressive for
faster cuts, while the standard, linear action is best for cutting tough materials. Some saws even allow you to switch be-
tween a linear cutting action and orbital action.

5
Upselling Skills

• A tilting platform allows you to cut at a variety of angles.

• Also, a saw with a clear view of the blade makes it easier to make an accurate cut. Better yet, some models have a
laser that points to exactly where the blade is headed.
• Dust extraction systems help contain the dust created by a saw. Some saw models have built-in ports that attach to
hoses or dust blowers that carry away the sawdust.
• An electric brake stops the blade from spinning almost immediately, whereas saws without this feature might take
several seconds to stop spinning.
• Some models have a counterbalance mechanism that reduces saw vibration, allowing for a more precise cut.
• Look for a tool that makes it quick and easy to change blades.
• Good quality jigsaws will also have features on the base that allow them to cut at an angle and preset marks for
common angles.

Add-on Items

• Show your customer the proper saw blades to go with the new saw.
• An extension cord will provide extra reach to any customer buying a corded tool.
• Customers buying a cordless tool may need an extra battery or a battery charger.
• Recommend safety glasses and ear plugs for any customer buying a saw.

Module 3: Sanders & Grinders

Product Knowledge:
Belt Sander
• Use for aggressive removal of stock over large areas. This sander can remove material rapidly, so
when using it, take care not to gouge or ripple a soft wood surface.
• Sands using a continuous belt or abrasive material controlled by two pulleys. A drive pulley
drives the belt and an idler pulley guides it.
• Two handles allow you to push or pull the machine with little effort.
• Comes in sizes of 2-1/2” to 4” wide belts; 3” wide is the most common size.
• Most models have an adjustment feature that automatically maintains the belt in the center of
the pulley during operation to eliminate belts that wander off the pulleys.
• Use open-coat sandpaper as it is less likely to clog.

Disc Sander
• Use it mostly for metal sanding or grinding, but it also removes stock in plastics, wood or
concrete when used with the proper accessory stone, disc or wheel.
• Aggressively removes stock and leaves scratches in the material.
• Available in two styles: the angle head where the disc runs parallel to the motor, and the vertical
style where the disc runs in a plane perpendicular to the motor.
• Polishers are another variation of this sander, but they operate at much lower speeds than the
sander. A sander should not be used for polishing as the high speed could burn the paint.

6
Random Orbit Sander
• A versatile sander that can be used for large and small projects.
• Uses a round disc of sandpaper to sand in both a circular and back-and-forth motion, which
reduces swirl marks.
• Sands in all directions, both against and with the grain.
• Common sizes are 5” and 6”, but smaller and larger sizes are available.
• One of the biggest differences in these sanders is the grip style a manufacturer may use. Some
have grips at the front of the sander, while others have handlebars that can be attached at either
side of the sander.
• Another important feature is variable speed for slower, delicate work or faster, heavy work.
• Most use a dust bag to collect sanding dust.

Finish Sander
• Easy to handle and also known as a palm sander
• Good for sanding corners and finish work. However, it may leave some scratches as it sands
both with and against the grain.
• Sandpaper attaches to a rectangular pad on the bottom of the sander. The motor moves the pad
in small, circular orbits.
• Holes on the bottom of the sander help to remove the dust from the material as you are sanding.
• Some models incorporate a triangular pad for sanding in tight corners.

Detail Sander
• Use it for sanding detail work and in tight spots, such as chair spindles and grooves.
• Easy to handle.
• Can accept a variety of attachments for particular applications.
• Some models have orbital action sanding, while others use a pivot drive that moves the pad in a
small arc.
• Another type is a profile sander, which sands details and profiles.

Angle Grinder
• Use with an abrasive attachment for a wide range of cutting, polishing and grinding applications.
Also use it to sharpen blades and to remove mortar in advance of tuckpointing.
• The size of the grinder relates to the size of disc it can accept. Common sizes are 4-1/2” and 9”.
• Some have a second handle that can be switched to a lift-hand or right-hand position.
• Better grinders have anti-vibration handles that make operation more comfortable.
• Since grinders produce so much power, one of the greatest dangers of operating this tool is
kickback, or the grinder bouncing off the workpiece and back towards the user.

7
Module 4: Planers & Joiners

Product Knowledge:
Plate Joiner
• Use it for making strong plate joints, or biscuit joints, that join separate pieces of wood together.
Also called a biscuit joiner.
• Most models come with different blades to create various slot sizes. Standard blade size is 4”.
• Has top-mounted or side-mounted sliding switches and comes with a dust bag or an adapter for
hook-up to a shop vacuum.
• Good joiners will have adjustable fences for making a joint at a variety of angles.
• Another type is a detail biscuit joiner, designed to make grooves for mini-biscuits. The blade on
these joiners is 2”.
• Another new type is a domino joiner, which cuts grooves for domino-shaped biscuits.

Power Planer
• Smoothes and reduces the surface of wood to achieve a flat surface.
• Operates with a pair of replaceable knives.
• User can adjust the knives to various depths.
• Features include an edge fence for edge trimming.
• Another feature on most models is a safety foot that prevents damaging a surface if you set
down the tool before the cutter has stopped spinning. A safety foot drops down to raise the plate
and keep the blade from cutting into the surface.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How does a biscuit joiner work?

A: A biscuit joiner uses a special horizontal blade that plunges into a piece of wood to create a slot for a biscuit. A biscuit
is a football-shaped piece of compressed wood that helps join together two pieces of wood. To use a biscuit joiner, align
the joiner on the piece of wood and push the handle forward. Make a similar cut in the second piece of wood at the place
where the two will adjoin.

Q: How do I keep the joiner from slipping when I’m making a cut?
A: Most joiners should have an anti-slip front end. Some manufacturers use a ribbed rubber strip, some use a nonslip
abrasive strip while others use retractable metal cleats.

Q: What is the difference between a joiner and a jointer?

A: A joiner is also called a biscuit joiner and is used to create biscuit joints. It is a hand-held tool. A jointer is a tabletop tool
that serves much the same function of a hand planer. It makes a flat surface on one side of a piece of wood.

Add-on Items

• Customers tackling a project where they are joining two pieces of wood may want wood glue.
• They will also need wood biscuits to make the joints.
• Suggest the appropriate clamps for holding the joint together while the glue dries.
• For those customers using a planer, suggest sandpaper for fine-finishing the wood they will be planning.
• Always use safety glasses when using a planer or joiner.

8
Module 5: Routers & Rotary Tools

Product Knowledge:
Fixed Base Router
• Use it for beading, routing, grooving, fluting and many types of decorative carving that could take
hours to do by hand. By using a router, you can achieve different shapes of cuts by using differ-
ent shaped bits.
• A router has a motor that raises and lowers with a rack and pinion and a bit that protrudes at a
set depth.
• This is the most economical type of router and highly portable.
• Standard and light-duty routers have 1/3 to 1/2 hp motors; commercial heavy-duty routers are 3/4
hp and higher.

Plunge Router
• Similar to a fixed-base router, but the motor is mounted on two posts and can be retracted from
and lowered into the workpiece.
• Required depth of cut can be set so it’s the same every time.
• Versatile and good for use in joinery.
• The plunge depth is the deepest cut that can be made by a router.

Laminate Trimmer
• A lightweight mini router.
• Designed for trimming thin plastic countertop materials, but also useful for small routing jobs.
• Highly portable and can be used with one hand.

Router Table
• A table built to accommodate a router mounted underneath and provide a smooth surface for
routing, and a fence for guiding the material.
• Another version is a horizontal table that holds the router horizontally.

Rotary Tool
• Small tool that is highly versatile and can be used with a variety of attachments.
• The rotary tool uses a blade that looks similar to a drill bit. It rotates and cuts through material
without the ripping motion of the sabre or jigsaw blade.
• Allows you to plunge directly into the center of material and eliminates the need for pilot holes.
• You can use smaller, lightweight tools for woodworking, crafting and detail work.
• Use larger, heavy-duty rotary tools for tasks like cutting sink openings in countertops, for cutting
and replacing ceramic wall tiles and cutting openings in drywall.
• Bits used with these tools include a variety of grinders, sanders, cutters, routers, cleaners and
polishers.
• Available in corded or cordless versions. Some have variable speed settings.
• Another popular version of this tool is the multi-tool. Instead of only using a blade that spins, it
can accept cutting blades, scrapers and sanders. It is a highly versatile tool used for a variety of
applications.

9
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between a professional power tool and a consumer tool?
A: A pro tool is designed to withstand heavier workloads and as a result they have more power. They also have motors
able to withstand use for a long period of time without burning up the motor. Professional tools feature motors with a res-
in coating on the motor wire to protect from grit and dust, ball bearings to reduce vibration and gears made of heat-treated
wrought steel. They also have tough plastic housing to withstand impact and to function as a superior electrical insulator.

Q: What type of router do I use with my router table?

A: You can use either a fixed base or a plunge router with a table. The most common and easiest one to use is a fixed
base. A plunge router may require a special attachment to use the plunge features with a table.

Q: Can you help me find a powerful router that’s light enough to handle all day?
A: Consider the power-to-weight ratio of the tool. Professional tools are engineered for maximum power with minimum
tool weight. Motors with copper wire instead of aluminum wire are likely to be more expensive, but minimize the size and
weight of the motor.

Upselling Skills

• A quick-release chuck, sometimes sold as an add-on accessory, can make changing bits on a router fast and easy.
• Some routers come with a plunge base adapter that allows a fixed router to turn into a plunge router.
• Variable speed and soft start are features of a quality router, and become even more important on larger, more powerful
routers.
• Also look for micrometer depth adjustment for precise depth settings.
• A built-in dust extraction hook-up allows the tool to quickly connect to a dust-management system.

Add-on Items

• There are many types of bits for routers, rotary tools and multi-tools. Suggest your customer buy a set of bits for versa-
tility and to experiment with several different types of cuts.
• Customers using a router may want sandpaper for smoothing the cuts made by the router.
• Suggest an extension cord to extend the reach of anyone using the tool.
• Always recommend the customer use safety glasses and earplugs when using a power tool.

10
Module 6: Pneumatic Nailers & Compressors

Product Knowledge:
Pneumatic Nail Guns
• Drives nails using power from an air compressor.
• The air pressure required to operate a nail gun is measured in psi, or pounds per inch. Different
nail guns will have different requirements about what kind of pressure they require.
• Nail gun attaches to the air compressor with a hose.
• Easy to maintain and good for high-volume nailing but not ideal for tight spaces.
• Nail guns are available in different types according to the type of application, such as roofing,
drywall, concrete, finish and framing.
• There are two different ways to load nails into the gun. Coil-style nail guns hold nails wound into
a coil, and the coil stores in a magazine on the gun.
• Stick-style guns hold nails in a stick, which is pushed into a long magazine.
• Nail gun trigger mechanisms come in several styles. One is the bump-fire style, where you pull
the trigger then bump or tap the tool on the material where you want to drive the nail.
• The one-for-one style means one squeeze of the trigger means one nail released from the gun.
• The squeeze-and-release style will drive a nail when you squeeze the trigger, but you might drive
more than one nail if you’re not careful. This type is more difficult to use and used mainly by
professionals.

Cordless Nail Guns

• Drives nails using power from flammable gas stored in a disposable canister attached to the gun.
• Since the tool is self-contained, it is ideal for working in tight spaces or where you need high
mobility. However, it is not ideal for high-volume nailing projects.
• This type of gun requires more cleaning than the pneumatic type.

Types of Nailers
• Framing nailers can use stick nails or coil nails. Nail sizes range from 1-1/2” to 3-1/2”.
• Roofing nailers can be used to fasten asphalt and fiberglass shingles, siding or insulation board.
• Finish nailers can be used to install molding, trim, paneling, door and window casings and
cabinets.
• Brad nailers are for firing brads, which is a tapered nail with a small head or a slight side
projection instead of a head. They range in size from 5/8” to 2”. Some models can also be used
to fire staples.
• Palm nailers are for work in tight spaces. Instead of firing nails, it operates like a pneumatic
hammer to drive conventional nails with a repetitive series of blows.

11
 Air Compressor
• Use it to power pneumatic tools such as nailers, sprayers and pressure washers.
• Rated in cubic feet per minute of air volume output (cfm), pounds per square inch of air pressure
input (psi) and horsepower (hp). The higher the ratings on any of these, the more versatile the
compressor.
• The most important rating is the cfm, because it indicates the amount of air volume needed
to operate various tools. Match the cfm rating on the compressor to the cfm rating on the tool
when selling a compressor.

Types of Air Compressors

• Compact or portable compressors use a diaphragm-type compression pump powered by an
electric motor. Use them for light applications such as inflation or light spray painting.
• Oil-free compressors use a special non-stick material to lubricate the motor. As a result, this type
of compressor is smaller and lighter than an oil-lubricated one.
• Piston-type compressors use an electric or gasoline motor to drive the pump unit. They offer
durability and high work capacity.
• Single-stage compressors have one or more cylinders producing air pressure. Two-stage
compressors have at least two cylinders doing the work. This type of compressor can store more
air in the tank and is best for use for jobs that have a high demand of air.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What type of compressor should I buy with my nail gun?

A: Two of the most important considerations are the psi and cfm ratings on the compressor. The psi represents the air
pressure the nail gun requires to operate. The cfm is the volume of air the gun needs to operate. When you’re buying a
compressor, consider all of the tools you intend to use with the compressor. Find the tool with the highest SCFM rating
and multiply by 1.5. This is the minimum size of compressor you want to buy. You always want to buy a compressor that
is slightly larger than your needs for best results.

Q: What features should I consider in a nail gun?

A: Consider ease of loading, ease of freeing a nail jam, nail-depth adjustment, whether it has a magazine with a clear
view, a rafter/belt hook, an adjustable exhaust hood (to keep the exhaust away from the user) and an offset handle (for
easy top loading).

Q: What are the advantages of a pneumatic gun versus a cordless gun?

A: Pneumatic nail guns are easy to maintain and are good for driving nails over an extended period of time. However, you’ll
also need an air compressor and hose, which can make operating this type bulky. Cordless guns are easier to transport
and give you a lot of mobility. However, they’re not designed for high-volume nailing.

Q: How does a pneumatic nail gun work?

A: Drives nails using power from an air compressor. To operate, pull the trigger, which fills the cylinder in the gun with air,
causing a piston to fill with air and driving the nail out of the chamber. The gun automatically loads another nail as soon as
the piston recoils.

Q: How does a cordless nail gun work?

A: A cordless nail gun drives nails using power from flammable gas stored in a disposable canister attached to the gun. To
operate, the gas flows from the canister into a combustion chamber above the piston. When you pull the trigger, a battery
provides a charge that ignites the gas, which makes the piston move and dispenses the nail.

12
Upselling Skills

• One of the common problems of nail guns is jamming, or when a nail becomes stuck in the mechanism. Better guns
make it easy to clear a jam.
• A good nail gun should have a case, which allows you to protect the gun when not in use.
• Larger triggers make nail guns easy to operate when wearing gloves.
• Better nailers have an adjustable depth setting, which allows you to choose how far into the material the nail should go.
For instance, you may want to countersink the nail.
• Another common problem with nail guns is hose tangling. A hose connector that swivels cuts down on this problem.

Add-on Items

• Customers will need an air hose that’s long enough to reach around the job site.
• Suggest a box of the appropriate fasteners, either stick or coil type nails or staples.
• Customers buying cordless nailer may need a spare fuel cell.
• Remind the customer to use pneumatic tool oil to keep the nail gun and compressor maintained.
• Always suggest the customer wear safety glasses when using nail guns.

13
 study guide: PoweR Tools

Chapter 2: Stationary Tools

Module 1: Stationary Saws

Product Knowledge:

Miter Saw
• Use it for making repeated straight or miter cuts.
• It is also known as a chopsaw.
• To use, pivot the circular blade to the correct angle, and then drop onto the material, which is
clamped stationary on a turntable.
• The turntable has a large compass scale with marks to show the degree of the cut.
• Many of the cuts most saw users make will be square or 45º cuts. Having a simple miter saw as a
second saw can help save a lot of wear and tear on your compound or sliding compound saw.

Compound Miter Saw

• Uses a circular blade that pivots to the correct angle then drops onto the material, which clamps
stationary on a plate.
• In addition to a simple pivot action, the blade tilts to make compound cuts.
• Good for cutting moldings and trim.
• The turntable has a large compass scale marked in degrees to show the degree of the cut.
• Most models tilt in only one direction, but better models tilt both to the left and to the right.
• Some manufacturers offer a cordless version of this tool.
• The sliding compound miter saw has all of these features, but has a sliding action, which allows
it to cut wider material than a standard miter saw can cut.

Contractor Table Saw

• Use it for ripping large pieces of wood. Portable and good for use on the jobsite.
• To operate, the material is fed onto the blade, unlike the miter saw where the blade moves across
the material.
• Has a circular saw blade extending up through a slot on a flat table.
• Motor and drive mechanism is located under the table.
• Blade can be raised, lowered or tilted depending on the cut needed.
• Power of the saw’s motor determines the thickness of material that can be cut and how efficiently
the saw will perform.
• Rip fence capacity is important for determining a saw’s quality. The rip fence mounts on the table
and adjusts to guide the material being cut.
• Typical sizes are 1-1/2 to 3 hp.

Cabinet Table Saw

• Use it for ripping large pieces of wood.
• A professional-grade table saw where the saw motor is housed in a cabinet.
• Sizes can range from 2 to 5 hp.

14
 Benchtop Table Saw
• Operates similar to other types of table saws, but it is more portable and lightweight.
• Most models use a 10” saw blade.
• A common accessory that comes with most types of table saws is a miter gauge that allows
angled cuts.

Tile Saw
• Use it for cutting tile and stone.
• Since it uses a diamond-tipped circular saw blade cooled by a continuous stream of water
contained in a reservoir, it is also called a wet saw.
• Some saws operate similar to a radial arm saw, while others are set up like a table saw.

Band Saw
• Has a band or loop-like blade that comes in various widths and strengths for different cutting
purposes.
• Sanding attachments and sanding loops are available for sanding on irregular or curved surfaces.
Some models have tables that can be tilted for angled cutting.
• There are two main types: the bench top style and the floor style.
• Use the bench top type saw for making irregular cuts in thick material (6” or more). It is best for
light tasks, not thick hardwoods. It uses blades up to 1/2” wide.
• The floor type mounts on the floor and usually has wheels sized from 12” to 36” in the industrial
models. Use it for sawing heavier and thicker materials.

Scroll Saw
• Has a small, thin blade that cuts intricate patterns in wood, plywood, light metal and plastic.
• The blade makes an up-and-down motion at more than 1,000 cutting strokes per minute.
• Table can tilt for angled cuts and it can handle wide materials.
• It is safe, inexpensive and lightweight.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is kickback?
A: Kickback usually occurs when the work piece pinches the blade of the saw. In stationary power tools, the result can
be that the work piece suddenly lurches back toward the user. Power tools should come with an anti-kickback device that
helps control this potentially dangerous situation.

Q: What is the difference between a band saw and a scroll saw?

A: The band saw blade makes a continuous loop and cuts by spinning in a circle. It can handle thick pieces of material, up
to 6” thick. A scroll saw can only handle thinner pieces and uses a small blade that moves up and down.

Q: Does it matter what kind of blade I buy for my band saw?

A: There are different types of blades for different types of cuts, but here are a few blades that will give you versatility. A
1/4” wide blade is a good, all-purpose blade. A 4-tpi 1/4” size is good for quick curved cuts, or try a 6-tpi 1/4” blade for
slower speeds and smoother cuts. The 1/2” hook-tooth blade is best for long straight cuts. For joinery or tight cuts, use a
1/8”, 14-tpi blade.

Q: Does it matter what kind of blade I buy for my scroll saw?

A: There are different types of blades for different types of materials and cuts. Blades with larger numbers (7, 10, 12) are
best for cutting thick materials. Blades with smaller numbers (0000, 00, 2) are best for cutting thin materials.

15
Upselling Skills

• Better table saws have larger ripping capacities. The rip fences will accurately lock into place and be made of durable
materials. To extend the usefulness of a table saw, use extension rails that extend the reach of the rip fence past the
reach of the table.
• Dust collection systems can help control the immense amount of sawdust produced by saws. Better saws have a port
where a hose can be connected to eliminate dust.
• Better floor stands have wheels for easy mobility and are foldable for easy storage.
• Oversized on/off switches make shutting off the saw easy and quick, a feature much appreciated in an emergency situ-
ation.
• Some saws have laser guides to ensure the blade is lined up exactly where you want the cut. Duel lasers show you the
entire width of the blade.

Add-on Items

• A miter saw stand allows the contractor to quickly set up a miter saw on the jobsite.
• A roller stand provides extra support for wood after it has left the table saw. It’s like a second pair of hands for the user.
• For any power tool you sell, recommend using safety glasses and ear protection.

Module 2: Other Stationary Tools

Product Knowledge:
Welder
• Use it to fasten together two pieces of similar metals. The welding process melts and fuses the
work piece with a filler metal.
• It is a good tool for anyone wants to experiment with welding, as there are several consumer-level
welding setups available.
• Wire feed welders, also known as mig welders, are used for hobby, workshop, home and farm
repairs.
• Arc welders are for welding iron to thin metals up to 1/4”.

Planer
• Use it to resize or smooth wood in width or thickness. Best for larger flat surfaces.
• It uses blades called knives to cut the wood.
• The benchtop planer is compact, but limited in power and the size of wood it can handle. It is
portable enough to transport to a job site.
• The stationary planer offers more power and speed, can handle larger sizes of wood and has
more knives, which produces a smoother cut.
• Choose a planer based on the width and thickness of the stock you want to cut.
• A variation is a planer-jointer, which performs additional operations such as tapering, beveling and
grooving. The planer finishes edges.

16
 Jointer
• Use to smooth the edges of wood and help remove warps.
• Can cut flat surfaces.
• Size is determined by length of the tool’s knives. Most common size is 6”.
• Often combined with a planer.

Lathe
• Use a lathe for wood turning applications to create spindles, miniatures, bowls and plates.
• The tool locks in a piece of wood, with the headstock turning the piece and the tailstock
supporting the other end.
• While the wood is spinning, use different types of tools to shape the wood. Tools are supported
by the tool support.

Grinder
• Use a grinder to cut and grind metal, concrete and masonry, for sharpening all tools, cutting into
corners and tight spots, polishing, buffing and wire brushing.
• Consists of a motor powering one or two grinding wheels, often mounted on a workbench.

Drill Press
• Use a drill press for boring holes in precise, repetitive cuts. With the appropriate accessories, the
drill press can also shape, carve, sand, grind, buff and polish.
• Consists of a base and a column rising upward to a head holding the motor and drill. A radial arm holds
a worktable that adjusts vertically. A feed handle enables you to direct the drill chuck up and down.
• On a radial drill press, the head rotates 360º around the column and can drill at an angle or horizontally.
• Some drill presses have a laser crosshair to show you exactly where the drill will cut the material.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between a planer and a jointer?

A: A planer is sometimes called a thickness planer. It will make a piece of wood thinner, and it can also smooth out the
surface of the wood. But to work, it must already have a smooth side. A jointer creates a flat surface on a piece of wood
where there might not already be one.

Q: What are some features to look for on a good planer?

A: Convenient features on a planer include a dust hood to collect dust, reversible knives that are often inexpensive and
disposable, infeed rollers to grab stock and help feed it through the machine and preset depth stops to make it easier to
set to a desired thickness.

Q: What are some attachments besides drill bits I can use on my drill press?
A: You can use rotary rasps, sanding attachments and even a rotary planer for small pieces.

Q: I want a basic lathe. What size should I buy?

A: A 36” or 40” lathe is big enough to make stairway balusters and most legs for chairs and other furniture.

Upselling Skills

• Quality planer-jointers have three or four blades. Lower-quality tools have only two. A floor stand with rollers is a good
complement to a planer. This serves as an extra hand by continuing to support the material after it has left the table.
• Better tools utilize some method of dust collection. Small scale dust collection is a bag attached to the tool that collects
the dust. Other tools have a port that attaches to a hose that pulls the dust into a central dust collection system.
• Better band saws have a blade brake that immediately stops the motion of the blade. This is a safety feature, but it also
is a time saver, as you don’t have to wait for the blade to stop spinning to make an adjustment.

17
 study guide: PoweR Tools

Chapter 3: Power Tool Accessories

Module 1: Drilling Accessories

Product Knowledge:

Twist Drill Bit

• Use a twist drill bit in both wood and unhardened metals to make clearance holes for bolts,
screws, etc., and to make holes for tapping.
• Bits marked HS (high speed) or HSS (high speed steel) are suitable for drilling in metals or wood,
• Bits made of carbon steel should be used only in wood and not in metal as they are more brittle
and less flexible than HSS bits.

Hole Saw
• Use a hole saw for cutting holes in wood, plastic, plaster and light metals.
• It is a cup-shaped blade with a bit in the middle, called a mandrel.
• Available in a range of diameters.

Brad Point Bit

• Use a brad point bit for wood drilling only.
• Tip has a screw-type point leading the drill flute that prevents drill walking.
• This type of bit helps prevent splintering, as the brad point is the first part of the drill to emerge,
allowing you to back the drill out of the hole and finish from the other side of the material.

Spade Drill Bit

• Use a spade drill bit in electric drills and drill presses for fast drilling of holes in wood.
• Spade bits have a forged, flat paddle with a point and cutting edges on one end.
• They are heat treated and cutting angles finish ground.
• Electricians use them for drilling clearance holes for wire in floor beams.

Auger Drill Bit

• Most commonly used with a brace for drilling holes in wood.
• Length varies from 7” to 10”.
• Dowel bits are short auger bits from 5” long.
• Long (ship) auger bits range from 12” to 30”.

18
Masonry Bit
• Use it in electric drills, drill presses or hand drills for drilling holes in brick, tile, cement, marble and
other soft masonry materials.
• May have a carbide tip, but some versions have a titanium nitride-coated tip.
• Feature two machined in spiral threads, one for each cutting edge, to provide passageways for all
dust and cuttings from the bottom of the hole.
• Diameters of carbide tips are the same as the full diameter of the body.

Tile Bit
• Use it for drilling ceramic tile and glass.
• Has a ground tungsten carbide tip.
• Best if used with a variable speed power drill at a low speed.

Forstner Bit
• Use it for drilling flat bottom holes in wood.
• Point on the bottom helps avoid the danger of the bit wandering.
• Available in sizes ranging from 3/8” to 2” and larger.
• Great for drilling holes in cabinet doors with concealed hinges.

Circle Cutter
• Also known as a fly cutter.
• Has a cutting blade attached to a horizontal arm. It can cut holes up to 7” in diameter.
• Primarily used on a drill press.

Countersink Bits
• Widens holes so flathead screws may be flush mounted below the surface for a finished
appearance.
• The counterbore is another version that makes a straight-walled hole so there’s room for a
wooden plug.

Expansion Bits
• Takes the place of many larger bits.
• Adjust it by moving the cutting blade in or out by a geared dial or by a lockscrew to vary the size
of the hole.

Step Bits
• Has a graduated design so that various sized holes can be cut without changing bits.
• Designed for use with power drills and has self-starting tips eliminating the need for center
punching. Can be used on all materials, but especially designed for use on metals.

19
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How does the number on the shank of a drill bit relate to its size?
A: Bit diameters are usually marked by a single number—the numerator of a fraction. For example, an auger bit, which is
marked by 1/16”, with a number 8 would stand for 8/16” or 1/2”. Twist bits are usually marked in the same manner by
1/64”. Thus a No. 8 bit would stand for 8/64” or 1/8”.

Q: What drill bits do you recommend for general use?

A: For drilling smaller holes in a variety of materials, choose a high-speed steel twist bit. These can drill holes from about
1/16” to 1/2” in wood, soft metal and other materials.

Q: I need to drill a 1” hole in a piece of wood. What bit do I need?

A: For drilling medium-sized holes in wood, a spade bit is a good choice. Common sizes range from 1/4” to 1-1/2”. They
can also be used on chipboards and floorboards.

Q: What bit should I use if I’m drilling in wood, where I’ll likely hit hidden nails?
A: A spade bit is a good choice because it is relatively inexpensive and you can resharpen it with a file.

Q: What type of drill bit should I use for cutting a large hole for a new door lock?
A: For larger holes, use a hole saw. It ranges in size from about 1” to 4” and has a pilot bit and a saw-toothed circular rim.

Upselling Skills

• Steel: This type of drill is best suited for softwoods. It may dull quickly.
• High Speed Steel: High speed steel drill bits will stay sharp longer than regular steel bits. They are more efficient and
versatile than steel bits.
• Some high-speed steel bits have a titanium coating that allows them to stay sharp even longer.
• Carbide-Tipped: The carbide tip means these bits will stay sharper longer that high speed steel or titanium coated bits.
• Cobalt: These bits are best for drilling into metal.

Add-on Items

• Your customer may be interested in a drill bit sharpener, which can extend the life of drill bits and drills, since sharper
bits put less strain on the drill.
• Ask if the customer needs a chuck key for his or her drill. This is a small T- or L-shaped tool used to tighten and loosen
the chuck on electric drills and drill presses.

20
Module 2: Sanding & Grinding Accessories

Product Knowledge:
Abrasive Attachments
• There are a wide variety of attachments for drills and angle grinders that can be used for shaping
or finishing metal. Others can be used for sanding and cleaning a variety of materials.
• Here are some of the common grinding attachments:
• Buffers polish metal or furniture.
• Abrasive discs can be used for grinding or sanding.
• Wire wheels remove rust and paint, and some types can clean concrete, asphalt and plaster.
• Flapper wheels sharpen tools.
• Tuckpointing grinders remove mortar.
• Cutoff wheels cut steel bars and bolts.
• Dry-cut diamond wheels cut tile, concrete and stone.

Sanding Belt
• Use a sanding belt with belt sanders.
• Available in a variety of grits and weights.
• Good quality belts should resist tearing and stretching.

Styles of Sandpaper
• One style is PSA. PSA stands for pressure sensitive adhesive, so sandpapers of this type have
a sticky backing. Generally, this type is used for sanding jobs where you will use the sandpaper
until it is worn out. Not for tasks where you will be changing sandpaper frequently.
• Another style is hook and loop, which attaches to the sander like Velcro. It is removable and
good for jobs that require frequent changing of the sandpaper.
• Some sanders use clamps to hold the sandpaper to the sanding pad. In this style, you can use
standard sheet sandpaper. A paper punch tool is usually included with the sander to poke the
holes in the paper to aid in dust extraction.
• Other types have an arbor hole where you attach the sandpaper to the sander with a bolt in the
middle of the wheel.

Sanding Disc
• Most often used with disc sanders and random orbit sanders.
• Available in a variety of grits and weights.
• Holes in the sandpaper enable dust extraction to reduce buildup of dust on the abrasive.
• Available in PSA and hook and loop styles.

Sanding Sheets
• Most often used with orbital sanders and other types of profile and finishing sanders.
• Square or triangular in shape, depending on the type of sander.
• Available in a variety of grits and weights.
• Styles include PSA, hook and loop backing.

21
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What’s the difference between PSA sandpaper and hook-and-loop sandpaper?

A: PSA has a sticky back and is good to be used on large jobs that are likely to wear out the sandpaper. Hook-and-loop
paper uses a fuzzy backing that sticks to the bottom of a sander. It can be pulled off and reused before the abrasive on the
paper wears out.

Q: Is there a way to cut down on all of the dust created when sanding?
A: Use a special vacuum attachment that connects directly to the grinder and eliminates dust.

Q: What attachment should I use to sharpen my lawnmower blade with a grinder?

A: Use a grinding wheel. To sharpen the blade, first clamp it to a workbench. The grinding wheel should spin away from
the body of the blade towards the edge. The wheel should also align with the angle of the blade. With the angle grinder
on, move it steadily across the blade (not back and forth). Apply light pressure and keep the grinder moving. Be careful
you don’t overheat the metal (you’ll know you’ve overheated it if the metal turns a bluish black color). Overheated metal
will lose its temper and won’t stay sharp. Use a wet rag to keep the blade cool if necessary.

Module 3: Sawing Accessories

Product Knowledge:
Combination Blade
• This is the most commonly used circular blade and is used for cross-cutting, ripping and mitering
in hardwood, softwood, veneer and plywood.
• Does not leave a smooth finish.

Plywood Blade
• This circular blade is used for cutting plywood.
• Has small teeth to resist splintering and resist the abrasion of plywood glue.

Hollow Ground Saw Blade

• Use this blade for crosscuts.
• The body of the blade is thinner than the teeth.
• This design helps prevent the blade from binding and creates a smooth cut.

Thin Kerf Saw Blade

• Use this blade for easy cutting of dimensional lumber.
• It has a thin profile, which results in less waste from the cut.

Abrasive Cut-Off Wheel

• Circular blade used for cutting ferrous metals, masonry, glazed materials and ceramic tile.
• Must match the type of wheel to the type of material being cut.
• Only use with saws that have an aluminum or magnesium guard.

Diamond Blade
• Use this circular steel disc with a diamond-bearing edge to cut tile, marble, slate, quarry tile,
granite, stone, limestone and porcelain tile.
• Can have either a segmented, continuous rim or turbo rim configuration.

22
 Sabre Saw Blade
• Use this carbon steel blade for cutting most woods and some plastics.
• The high-speed steel blade is used for cutting metal, fiberglass and abrasives and thin plastics.

Reciprocating Saw Blade

• Use this blade with a reciprocating saw, but when selling, match the type of blade with the mate-
rial you want to cut. Here are the most popular types.
• Carbon steel blades cut soft woods and plastics. Do not use for material with nails.
• Carbon-tipped blades cut nail-free wood, nonferrous metal, plastic and fiberglass.
• High speed steel blades cut most metals, plastics and fiberglass. However, blades are brittle and
easily broken.
• Bimetal blades combine carbon steel and high speed steel. They last as much as three times
longer than other blades.

Taking it to the Floor:

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What type of blade should I use when I am cutting wood across the grain?
A: A crosscut blade has a series of evenly spaced, medium-sized teeth that are bent alternately from the left to the right.
If you are cutting with the wood grain, use a rip blade. This type of blade also has teeth bent to the left and right, but its
teeth are on the top of the blade, not on the inside. They are like chisels that scoop out the wood as the saw moves along
the grain.

Q: What is a dado head blade?

A: This type of blade consists of two kinds of blades in one assembly: two small and thicker-than-normal circular blades
on the outside and blades called cutters on the inside. Use it on a table saw to cut grooves or slots across boards. An
alternative type is an adjustable dado, which consists of a single blade.

Q: My saber saw blades seem to dull quickly.

A: That’s common, but make sure you are using the right blade for the material you are cutting—wood, tile or metal.

Q: What do the teeth-per-inch numbers mean on sawblades?

A: The numbers indicate the number of points per inch on a saw blade.

Upselling Skills

• Better blades have heat vents to reduce vibration and heat buildup, which allows for a more precise cut.
• Some blades have a coating to reduce friction, which reduces the burn marks sometimes left by a blade. Some coat-
ings also prevent corrosion.
• A carbide-tipped saw blade lasts up to 10 times longer than regular blades. It’s a good choice when working with ply-
wood or hardwood, but not with masonry or material with nails.

23