Comparing Emulsifiers

I think it goes without saying, there are a lot of emulsifiers out there. It can be very over
whelming choosing which one you want to use. I'm making this post today in hopes to make that
decision a little easier. (there are a lot more emulsifiers other than the ones I'm comparing
today)

What is an emulsifier?
"Emulsifiers contain both a water-loving head group and an oil-loving tail. When added to an o/w
emulsion, the emulsifier surrounds the oil droplet with it’s oil-loving tail extending into the oil, and
it’s water-loving head facing the water. (In a w/o emulsion, the emulsifier’s orientation is
reversed.) In this way, emulsifiers lower the interfacial tension between the oil and water
phases, and form a protective layer around the oil phase keeping the oil droplets evenly
dispersed and preventing them from flocculating.”

Before we start comparing the emulsifiers, lets go over a few things you need to keep in mind
when choosing the right emulsifier.

Personal preference - I think it is important to get your own personal opinion on these
emulsifiers. Just because an emulsifiers feels great and works well on someone else's skin, it
doesn't mean you are going to like it. Narrow down the emulsifiers that you think sound best,
purchase the smallest amounts possible of said emulsifiers, and try them out yourself.

PH - some emulsifiers don't work in all ph levels. For example; If you are making a glycolic acid
cream which has a ph of around 3.5-4 not every emulsifier will work. Make sure you are aware
of the ph your emulsifiers are active in before formulating with them.

Charge - For the most part, a lot of emulsifiers are nonionic, but some aren't. Remember,
cationic and anionic surfactants can't be used together Cationic surfactants have a positive
charge and anionic has a negative charge. There are some exceptions to this rule (which I
should discuss in another blog) but when it comes to emulsifiers, you can't use a cationic
emulsifier with anionic surfactants.

Ecocert - Are you trying to stick with Ecocert emulsifiers? Don't worry, I got a few for you. Not all
of the emulsifiers I am going to mention will be ecocert, so you won't have as many choices.

Type of product - What product are you making? A serum, lotion, cream, hair conditioner, etc.
Just because one emulsifier works great in a hair conditioner, it doesn't mean you can swap it
out for a different emulsifier and have the same results. Some emulsifiers just bring different
things to the table.

Simplicity - What I mean by this, is that some emulsifiers do well on their own, but some
perform and feel better when combined with a co-emulsifier. Some emulsifiers work best and
are suggested to be combined with a fatty alcohol, fatty acid, or stabilizer. Cetyl alcohol, cetearyl
alcohol, stearic acid, behenyl alcohol, xanthan gum, etc. So if you are wanting to go with
simplicity you want to look for an "all in one emulsifier."
 Comparing Emulsifiers
5 emulsifiers we will be comparing.
Now let's go over the descriptions of these 5 emulsifiers (I pulled these descriptions from lotion
crafter & FSS) These are not my personal descriptions. I'll go over my personal opinions at the
end.

Emulsifying Wax NF - INCI Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 or Emulsifying Wax NF. This
emulsifier is nonionic. It is mild, provides excellent stability, and is very easy to use. It can be
used to make thick or thin emulsions, depending upon the concentration used. Can be used in
formulations with a PH as low as 3 or as high as 13. Recommended Use Rate: 2-25%, usually
3-5% for lotions and 5-10% for creams. Approximate HLB: 14.9

Ritamulse SCG - (Also goes by ecomule & emulsimulse) INCI Glyceryl Stearate & Cetearyl
Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate. Provides conditioning to both hair & skin. Does not require
aid of other emulsifiers or stabilizers. Will provide a soft, conditioned, talc-like feel to skin.
Because it's based on anionic lactylates, it does not conform to HLB systems for nonionic
surfactants & no HLB number has been determined. Ideal pH range of 5-7.5 Recommended
Use Rate: 2-10%, usually 4% serums, 5% lotions, 8% creams. (Personally I think 5% is to low
for creams. I would recommend at least 6% or 7% for creams) I also seen someone mention
that you can use it at 3% for milks and use .3% xanthan gum to ensure stability. Haven't tried it,
but I definitely want to now. (Ecocert)

BTMS 50 - INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol. It's a
conditioning agent & cationic emulsifier for skin & hair. Creams tend to resist wash off, leaving a
soft, powdery feel on skin & imparting excellent detangling properties to hair conditioners. In
conditioners it offers improved wet combing & leaves hair with noticeable body & spring. Is
suitable for leave in conditioners & can be used as a co-emulsifier with Emulsifying Wax NF or
Polawax, adding it's conditioning properties to emulsions. Recommended Use Rate: 1-10%

Montanov 64MB - INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside. Nonionic emulsifier. May
help actives or lipids from lotion penetrate our skin easier. Reduces transepidermal water loss
as the lotions hold more water in contact with skin for longer. Including a fatty alcohol like Cetyl
or Cetearyl Alcohol can help increase the liquid crystal formation in the lotion. Does best with a
25% oil phase. Works in PH levels 3-12, so it is a good choice for products containing AHA's or
BHA's. Described as being lighter and more moisturizing than those made with non liquid crystal
emulsifiers like emulsifying wax NF or Polawax. HLB:10 Recommended Use Rate: 1-5%
(Ecocert)

Olivem 1,000 - INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate. Nonionic emulsifier. Can be used
in PH levels 3-12. Is hypoallergenic and provides creams with excellent spreadability with no
soapy effect. Stability is improved with the addition of a water phase thickener like xanthan gum
at .2% and consider the use of a co-emulsifier at 1 - 2% to further improve stability. Fatty
alcohols can also be used for thickening if needed. HLB: 9 Even though an HLB value has been
provided by manufacturer Olivem 1,000 chemistry does not really work based on the HLB
system. Its emulsification mechanism is based on liquid crystal formation and therefore the HLB
value is not so critical for this emulsifier. Recommended Use Rate: 3-4% for serums and low
viscosity lotions. 7-8% for high viscosity lotions and creams. (Ecocert)
 Comparing Emulsifiers
Comparing emulsifiers;
Formulation I used for each emulsifier. I kept the formula very simple so I can get a really good
impression of how the emulsifier feels solely on its own.

• 5% emulsifier
• 15% almond oil
• .5% liquid germall plus
• 79.5% distilled water

Before I began testing the emulsifiers I let them sit for 24 hours to fully emulsify. Once I had all
the lotions made I began by comparing only two emulsifiers to one another. I massaged one
moisturizer into my left hand and massaged the other emulsifier into my right hand. I only
compared two at a time because I only have two hands and I wanted to compare the emulsifiers
on the same part of my body. Once I massaged each lotion into my hand I didn't just turn around
and wash them off. I kept them on my hands for as long as possible. I probably waited about 6
hours in between each group of emulsifiers. I only compared 4 emulsifiers on the first day then I
waited till the next day to compare 4 more and so on.

Day 1 (comparison 1): I began my experiment by comparing Montanov 68 MB to Olivem

1,000. The first thing I noticed is that Montanov was thicker than Olivem 1,000. It also felt like
Montanov had just a little bit more of a drag compared to Olivem 1,000. Montanov lasted much
longer on my skin and I would say they made my hands equally as soft. Even though Olivem
1,000 is described as not having a soapy effect I have heard from so many people that it does.
& I would agree. I see what everybody means by it having a soapy effect, but once it's rubbed
in, that doesn't effect you anymore. Now I may feel differently about it if I were to use it on my
face, but for now, I'm just comparing them on my hands. I am going to say Montanov 68 MB
won this round because it lasts longer on my skin and if I were to sell a product using Olivem
1,000 customers may complain about the soapy effect. Even if it doesn't bother me, it may
bother someone else.

Day 1 (comparison 2): Later that day after I showered and I knew neither of the remaining
lotions could possible be left on my skin, I decided to compare two of the other emulsifiers. This
time I compared Ritamulse SCG & Emulsifying Wax NF. First thing I noticed is that the
Ritamulse SCG was much thinner than the Emulsifying Wax NF. I also noticed the Ritamulse
SCG had much more of a drag compared to the Emulsifying Wax NF. The Emulsifying wax NF
feels softer and more velvety compared to Ritamulse SCG. Emulsifying Wax NF won this round
by a long shot!

Day 2 (comparison 1): I decided to take both of the winning competitors from day 1 and
compare them. Montanov 68 MB vs Emulsifying Wax NF. Overall they felt very similar if not
almost identical. I couldn't really tell them apart. The only thing I noticed different from one
another is that emulsifying wax NF was thicker. At times I would think Montanov was softer, but
then I would all of a sudden think the emulsifying wax nf was softer. I couldn't make up my mind.
The only downfall montanov has compared to emulsifying wax nf is that it takes a little longer to
absorb into the skin and creates a slight soaping effect, but nothing that adding a little cetyl
alcohol can't fix. Which a fatty alcohol like cetyl alcohol is recommended to be paired with
montanov anyways. If I had to pick a winner just by going off this test, it would be emulsifying
wax, but I really find them to be very similar.
 Comparing Emulsifiers
Day 2 (comparison 2): Later I decided to compare Olivem 1,000 to BTMS 50. Olivem was
much thinner than BTMS 50. They both felt soft and velvety, but I think the BTMS had a bit more
of a drag and the olivem felt a little softer. I was a little surprised by this so I even had my
boyfriend try and he said the same thing. Of course the olivem took longer to absorb compared
to the BTMS and the olivem did have a soaping effect, but if I am going off by how they felt
rather than how they absorbed, then I guess Olivem 1,000 won this round.

Day 3 (comparison 1): Emulsifying Wax NF vs BTMS 50. I would say their viscosities were
very similar. These both massaged into skin just as easy as one another. The first thing I noticed
after both of these moisturizers were rubbed into my skin, the emulsifying wax felt softer and
had less of a drag. While the BTMS 50 felt soft too, but not quite as soft compared to the
emulsifying wax. I also noticed the BTMS 50 had more of a drag, but only slightly. So
Emulsifying wax won this time.

Day 3 (comparison 2): Montanov 68 MB vs BTMS 50. Montanov was a little thinner
compared to BTMS 50. The montanov took a little longer to absorb compared to BTMS 50, but I
do think the montanov felt softer and had less of a drag compared to the BTMS. It was a very
similar experience to the emulsifying wax vs BTMS only the montanov took a little longer to
absorb compared to the emulsifying wax. So I would say Montanov won this round.

Personal Opinions about each Emulsifier;

Emulsifying Wax NF - I feel like this is the most popular emulsifier used in the Formulating
community. I see and hear about it everywhere. This was the very first emulsifier I ever worked
with, so I have a little personal attachment to it I guess. It's always been my go to emulsifier, but
as I am exploring more into the emulsifier world I do see why it is so popular, but I also see
there are so many other great alternatives that work just as well. What I do like about this
emulsifier is that it never fails me. It thickens wonderfully, feels great, can be used in a wide
range of ph levels and when paired with cetyl alcohol it gets even better. Overall, if you are
looking for an emulsifier that can be used in a wide range of different products, I would
recommend this emulsifier. I also think it is perfect for beginners because its just so easy to
work with. Which is just what beginners are looking for. Now I'm not sure about using it on it's
own, since I've never tried it (other than in this experiment) So I don't know how stable it is on
it's own, but I always pair it with cetyl alcohol.

Ritamulse SCG - I have mixed feelings about this one. I wanted this emulsifier to be better than
emulsifying wax nf so badly, but sadly it just isn't as good. I don't think it feels as nice on the skin
and it creates pretty thin emulsions compared to all these other emulsifiers (except Olivem
1,000). Personally this wouldn't be my first pick to use as an emulsifier in a lotion or cream, but I
do love using it in emulsified body scrubs. Actually I would go as far to say it is my number 1
emulsifier for emulsified body scrubs (never tried olivem 1,000 in an emulsified body scrub
though) I think it would probably do well in a serum too. (I like to keep my serums water based
so I've never tried it, but maybe I should, cause I think it would work nicely since it creates such
thin emulsions.) I've never dealt with emulsions failing using this emulsifier, but I did recently
have a subscriber tell me they did. So maybe I've just gotten lucky using this emulsifier. It is
suppose to be an all in one emulsifier, it doesn't need paired with a stabilizer or co emulsifier, so
I found it odd that she dealt with it failing. If you do experience failed emulsions using this
emulsifier try adding .2% xanthan gum into the water phase or add in a fatty alcohol like cetyl
 Comparing Emulsifiers
alcohol. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this emulsifier to beginners, unless they are making an
emulsified body scrub or serum. But if you have more experience under your belt and you want
an ecocert emulsifier, try it out and do some experiments. I'm sure you can find the right
combination of ingredients to make it fell better on the skin. Keep in mind, it's just my opinion
that I don't like how it feels on my skin, compared to other emulsifiers, so you may feel
differently.

BTMS 50 - This was the second emulsifier I ever tried, and at first, I was in love with it! I used it
in all my moisturizers, but then I noticed it wasn't reacting well on my face. I was getting a few
little red bumps on my face. This was about 2 years ago, so I can't quite remember what
reaction I had on my face. I know it wasn't to dramatic, but I haven't made a facial product using
BTMS 50 since then. Maybe I should try it again and see what happens. I do, on the other hand,
LOVE using this in hair conditioners! I've also used it in some spray on moisturizers and leave in
conditioners and loved it too. My body isn't quite as sensitive as my face, so I can use this
emulsifier in body lotions, just not face lotions. Overall, I highly recommend this emulsifier. I
know buying skincare ingredients can get expensive. So if you are new to formulating, this is a
great emulsifier to get since you can create a wide range of products using this stuff, from hair
care to body care. The only downfall is if you are looking for an ecocoert emulsifier, this just ain't
it. Keep in mind, this emulsifier is cationic so you can't pair it with anionic surfactants.

Montanov 64MB - I only just recently purchased this emulsifier, but I do love it! It seems to
perform just as well as emulsifying wax nf and has the same effect. Now I've only tried it in
about 3 formulations, so I don't want to jump the gun. I can't fully say how stable it is, but so far,
its doing well. I do always pair it with cetyl alcohol because cetyl alcohol is like my best friend,
my skin loves it. It is also recommended to be paired with a fatty alcohol anyways, so it isn't
recommend to be used on it's own. Another reason I really like this emulsifier is that it
supposably helps actives or lipids from lotion penetrate our skin easier. So it's now my go to
emulsifier for lotions containing active ingredients like retinol, AHA, or any other expensive
ingredients with lovely benefits.

Olivem 1,000 - Unfortunately, I don't really have much to say about this one. I've only ever used
it for this experiment. I just recently purchased it. I am actually very surprised at how well it
performed though, I liked the way it felt on my skin. I feel like a lot of people hate on this
emulsifier because of it's soapy effect, but it doesn't bother me. Again, never tried it on my face,
so I may think differently once I do. Okay, this is going to be hard to explain, so bare with me.
You know how we all have lines on our skin. Those little lines you can't really see unless you
look closely. What I noticed when I rubbed this moisturizer into my skin, is that it seeped into
those lines and really accentuated the lines on my skin. Obviously this was caused because of
the soapiness, but I just thought it was something I should mention cause when people refer to
"soapy effect" they mean the lotion turns white when you begin rubbing it into your skin. I just
thought this was interesting and wanted to share it. Overall the only other opinion I have on
Olivem 1,000 is that it creates much thinner emulsions compared to the other emulsifiers. I do
think it's a good one to try out if you are looking for an ecocert emulsifier. I really do need to
experiment with it more to get a better opinion of it. I do think it felt better on my skin compared
to ritamulse scg. So I might actually like it more than ritamulse scg once I actually use it in a
formulation.
 Comparing Emulsifiers
Fun fact: You know why some lotions have a soapy effect? It's nothing bad, it's just the lotion re
emulsifying on the skin with your skins natural oils. I found this explanation on ChemistCorner.
It's just his theory, but it makes sense. "First, the emulsion mixes with everything else on the
skin - water, salt, sebum, etc. Next, as you continue rubbing, two things are happening: 1) The
water in the emulsion starts to evaporate, and some part of it is also taken up by the skin. 2) A
great deal of shear force/stress is being applied to the emulsion -more than enough to re-
emulsify the product. That's what I think is happening - as the water level in the emulsion drops,
the emulsion turns from an O/W emulsion to a W/O emulsion, and only then to an emollient film,
as the water level drops further." I found this to make a lot of sense. Why do you think some
emulsions create a soapy effect? If you are dealing with a soapy effect it can be eliminated with
the use of silicones like dimethicone or "natural" silicone replacements like natrasil or
Neossance Hemisqualane. You can also eliminate the soapy effect with the addition of cetyl
alcohol. How have you fixed soapy effects in your emulsions?

UPDATE; When I first wrote this blog I had only experimented with Montanov 68 MB a couple
times. So I had yet to form to much of an opinion. Well I’ve had a little more time to experiment
with it and I have found that it’s not very stable. About half the emulsions I have made with it
have failed after sitting for about a week, but the other half has stayed stable. The only
difference between the ones that stayed stable and the ones that didn't is that the ones that
stayed stable all contain an oil phase of 10% fractionated coconut oil, 9.5% natrasil, and 5%
shea butter. The ones I formulated with a different oil phase have failed. All of the emulsions I
made had the same percentage of Montanov 69 MB and cetyl alcohol. So the reason the
emulsion didn’t stay stable could be because of the HLB values. Now I’ll admit, I don’t know
much about the HLB system because I don’t really need to. All of the emulsifiers I mentioned in
this post, besides Emulsifying wax NF & Montanov 68 MB don’t even comply with the HLB
system. So if you are using an all in one emulsifier like emulsifying wax nf or an “ecocert/
natural” emulsifier like Ritamulse SCG or Olivem 1,000 or even a cationic emulsifier like BTMS
50 you don’t need or can’t even use the HLB system. So I’ll have to do more research and
testing with Montanov 68 MB to get it stable. I plan on testing it with a stabilizer, which I’m
guessing should work. I thought that montanov 68 MB was an all in one emulsifiers, but I guess
not. Anyways, when I figure out have to properly stabilize emulsions with montanov 68 MB I will
be sure to share my tips :)