‘

i ge R a il wa y Libra r y Ad ve rtiser
’
s .

whit ens the tee th p reven ts d ecay ,

a nd g i ves a pl eas i n g f rag rance to

,
’

the b rea th .

p reserves a nd
b e a u ti fi e s the
hai r , a n d ca n be al so h a d in a g ol d en col our a
f or f ir
hai r . Si z es 7/

cool in g h ealin g
9. m ost
d re fres h in g m i l k f o r th e
, ,

f ace h an d s a nd arm s I t p revents a n d re m oves

Frec k l es T a n S un burn R ed n es s a nd R o u ghnes s o f
. , .

the S kin and prod uces a b eautif ul a nd d el icate co m

, , ,

pl exi on B ott l es L 6 a n d
,
!
.

tints whi te rose a nd cream pe r bo x

As k C hemi s ts fo r R o wl an d s artic l es o f 20 Hat ton
.
, , , ,
’
, ,

Ga rd en L o n d on and avoi d poi so nous imi tations

, ,
.

B UG S ,

FL E A S ,

M O T HS ,
B E ETL E S .

PU B L I C o AU T I O N E D t
 Thos e wh o ha v e to ng ues tha t n ever li e ,

Tr u thon th e li p tr uth in th e ey e .

To Fri en d or to Foe ,

To all a b ov e and to all b e l ow .

ESE B THE HAPPY THESE , ARI-2

T FR EE ,

80 MAY IT BE WITH THE AND ME .

W HA T H I G HE R A I M C AN M AN AT l A I N T HAN
' ‘

C O NQU EST O V E R H U M A N PAI N ?

D R AW ING AN O V ER DR AFT O N
T HE B ANK O F L IFE .

L ate Hours F a gg e d U nna tu ra l E x c i tement

reathin g I m pure A ir to o R ic h F ood A l c o
, , ,

B
hol ic D ri n k G o ut y R heumatic and othe r
, ,

B l oo d P oi son s F evers F e v eri s h C o l d s S l ee p

, .
,
-

l es snes s B i l iousnes s S ic k H ea d ache S k in

, , ,

P i m pl es o n the F ace
. , ,

E ru ption s W an t o f
'

, ,

A p petite S ournes s o f S tomach etc I t pre

vents D iarrh a ea a nd re m oves it i n th e earl y
, , .

sta g es .

E E NO S F R UIT S AL T
’
.

5 Pl ea sa n t Heal th Gi vi ng , R efr e shi ng and In vi g o r a ti ng

, Cooling ,
-
, ,

OVERSTATEITS GREAT VALUElNKEEPINGTHE BLOOD PUREANDFREE FROM DISEASE .

HE AND DI SOR DE R ED STO MACE A f te r su ff eri ng fo r near ly two -a nd

years fro m severe head ac he and di sor d ere d stom a ch a nd af te r t ry in g al m ost ,

a nd S pen d in g m u ch m oney W i thout fin d in g a ny b ene fit I w a s re co m m end ed by a

y y ou r FR U I T S A L T a nd be fore I h ad fi ni sh cd o ne bot t l e I found i t d oin g m e
,
’

1 o f g oo d a nd n o w I a m restore d to m y usua l hea l th a nd oth ers I know that have

,

such g ood hea l t h fo r years —You

,

r s m ost trul y . ,
“
R H U M P H R E YS P os t O fii cc B arras for d .
, ,
.

I — CAIR O — S ince m y a rri va l in E gy p t i n A ug ust l a st I h ave o n thr ee occasions

‘

n a ttac ked b fever f r o m whi ch o n th e fi rst I la y in hos i t a l fo r six w eek s

. . , ,

Th e
a have be en yo we ve r co m pl etel y re pul se d i n a r e m a r k a bp
, .

y short s pace o f ti m e by
y our val uabl e to whic h I o we m y present hea l th at the ver y
, ,

FR UI l S A L T
‘ ’

Hea r t fe l t grati tu d e fo r m y res toration an d p re ser vation i m pe l s

. .

t m y life i ts e lf
my te stim o ny a n d in s o d oi n g I fee l that I am bu t obe y in g the d i c tates o f d ut y
.

to be g rate fu ll y y ours A C OR PO R AL 1 9th H ussars M ay 26 1 883 — M r J 0 E 0 0

, .

. .
, , , , , . . .

D m y F R U I T S A L T freel y i n m y l a st severe att ack o f fever and I have ever y ,

o n to sa y I be l ieve it saved m y l i fe — J C E N . . .

S I R — I a m very p leas ed to re cor d m y kno wl e d ge o f th e g reat e ffi ca of y o u

A f rien d o f m ine wh o h a d three g ran d chi l dr en l aic y u p Wi t t
,

AL T i n m eas les
a i nt a d m i ni stere d f re q uent doses with the resu l t that a ll the chi l d ren p u ll ed
.
,

3nd e r fu lly i n a shor t ti m e fo r whi ch the m other wa s excee d in g l y g ra te ful tha n k

, ,

) l m ysel f a n d fa m i ly y o ur u r unive sa l re m ed y
, .
'
FR U I T S AL T i B o r d ering s o r

I find a bott l e o f E NO S F R U I T S A L T and a few o f E NO S V E G ET

.
,

3 1 am
' ’

TO S th e gr eatest boon i n the u p hi ll bat t l e o f t h is li fe — I am de a r S i r y Ouri

,

.
, ,

I T Y M AN Octo ber 1 890 , J C E No ,

.
- . . .

CR ET OF SUCCESS — STER LI NG HONESTY OF P UR POSE ; W IT HOUT I

.

I S A SHAM A ne w i nvention is brou ght be fore th e u bli c and co m m an d

score o f abo m in abl e i m i tations are i mm ed ia te l y introd u ce by the unscru pu lous
,

py i n g the ori g ina l c l o s el y enou g h to d eceive the pu bl ic a nd y e t n o t s o exact l y a

u n l eg al ri ghts exer cise an ing”enuity tha t e m ploy e d i n an ori g i na l channe l
,

, ,

fa i to se cu re reputatio n a n d pr o fi t — A n a x 8 . .

Exa m i we ea ch B o tt l e a nd s “ t ha t the Ca ps u l e i s m a r ed E NO S
“
I ON k FR UI
‘ '
-
. ,

Wi t ho u t i t y ou ha ve been i mpo sed o n by a wor t hless im i ta tio n So ld by a ll Chemis ts . .

o nl y a t Eno s Frui t Sal t Works Lond on

'
by J O Eno s Patent , , . .
 R o u tle d g e R a il wa y L i b ra ry Ad v e r ti s e r
’
s .

FO R INFANT
AND INV

96, Brixton Hill 4ih

Mrs E BARBER wri
. .

to forward photo of In
brought up entirely on y

PAL A T AB L E , D I G E S T I VE ,
N O U R I S HI N G , S U ST AI
Price 2 3 . a nd 33 6d per Tin
. . .

SHAKESPEARIANWISDOM ONTHE FEEDING AND BEARING

A Pa m ph l e t of quo t a t io ns fr o m S h ak e spea r e a nd p
.

b ea ut ifu l c h il d r en, t o ge th e r w it h T e s t im o ni a l s , wh ich

h ig h es t int e r est to a ll m o t he r s . T o be ha d, w ith -

se
 R O UTLE D GE S
’

M AN UA L OF ET IQU ETT E

ETIQUETTE roe mores couirrsmp MATR IMONY

m ourn s roe GENTLEMEN HOW TO DRESS WELL
BALL-
R oomCOMPANION HOW TO CARVE
TOASTS END SENTIMENTS
‘

L O ND O N
GE O R G E R O UT L E D G E A N D S O N S , L I M I T ED
B R OA DW AY, L U DGA T E HIL L
G L A SGOW, M A NC HEST ER , NEW YOR K
 C O NT E NT S .

ET I QUET TE FO R L A DIES .

pa s s

I ntroductions
L etters of I ntroductio n
V isiting, M orn ing C alls, C ards
C onversation
Not es of I nvitation , &c .

T he Promenade
D ress
M orning and Evening Parties
T he D inner table
The Ball -ro o nI
Stay ing at a Friend s Hous e —Brea k fast ,
’

eon , &c.
g

General Hints

ETIQ UETTE FOR GENTL EMEN .

IntI o du ctio ns
L etters of Introduction
V isiting, M orning C a lls , C ards , & c
.

C onversat i on
Notes of I nvitation , &c .

T he Promenade
Dress
and D riving
R iding
Morning and Evening P arties

1 8 94 7 07
iv C ON ] E N TS .

X . The D inn er -table

XI . T he Ba ll -roo m
Staying at a FI iend s House — B reak fast ,
'

XII
'

c on , &c .

XI I I . Gener al Hints

BALL -R OOM G UI DE.

2 . Ho w to organi ze a B all
1 1. B all -room T oilette ( L adies )
( Gen tlemen )
Etiquette of the B a l -room
II I . l
T he Quadri le
IV . l
V T he C aledonians
.

V I T he L ancers.

V I I T he D oubl e L ancers
.

V I I I C oulon s D ouble Quadrille

’
.

I x T he Po ka . l
X T he C ellarius
.

X I The M az urka Quadrille

.

X I I The Polka M az urka

.

X I I I T he R edowa , or R edova
.

X I V T he Schottisch e
.

XV The V arsoviana, or V arsovienn e

.

X V I T he G o rlitz a .

X V I I The V a se a T rois T emps

. l
X V I I I T he V alse a D eux T emps
.

XI X
T he Ne w V alse
.

XX T he G alop.

XX I T he C oti on . ll
X
X I I T he S p a n is h Dance
.

X
X I I I Th e T emp ete .

X
X I V Sir R oger de C overle
. y
XX V Glo ssar of T erms used in Danc ing
. y
 CON TE N TS .

ET IQ UETTE OF C OUR TSHI P AND MAT R IMONY .

PAGE
I .
—
I R ST STEPS I N COUR I SIII P
F
' '

Advi ce t o both pa rti es at the outset

In troduction to the L ad y s Fami ly
’

II .
— ETI QU ETT E O F C O U RTSHIP.

R es tri cti ons imposed by

y E ti quette
Wh at the La dy sho uld observe In earl y C ourt ship
W hat th e Suitor should o bseri e
E tiquette as to Prese nts
The Proposal
M ode of R efus al when n ot approved
C onduct to be observed by a R ej ected Suitor
R efusal b y the L ad y s Parents or G uardians
’

I I I — ETI QUE TT E OF AN ENGA GEM ENT

. .

D emeanour of th e B etrothed Pair

S ho uld a C ourtship be long or short ?

I V — PREL I M I NA R Y ETI QU ETTE O F A

. W EDD I NG .

Fix ing the Da y

Ho w t o be Married . by Ba uns, Licence , &c
.

T he T rous seau
D uties to be attended to b y th e B ridegroo m
W ho should be asked to the W edding
’
B rides maids and B ridegroom 5 men Du ,

V .
— ET I QU ETT E OF A W ED D I NG .

C ostume of Bride , B ridesmaids, and Bridegroom

A rrival at the C hurch
T he M arriage C eremoni al
R egistry of th e M arriage
R eturn Home and W edding Brea kfas t
Departure for the Hone y moon
'

V L — ETIQU ETT E A FT ER T HE W EDDI NG .

Wedding C ards M odern Practice of No C ards

R eception and R et urn of Weddi ng V isits

Practical Advice to a Newl y marri ed -

C ou pl e
7! CON TE N TS .

HOW T O D R ESS W EL L .

I I n t roduction
.

I I T aste in D ress
.

I n Fashion in D ress
.

E xpense of D ress
V . Accessories
V I. A Few W ord s M ore

HOW T O C AR VE .

Hints on the D inner -tabl e

C arv ing

FISII .

j O l NT S .

Huunch of V enison or M utton

S add l e of M utton
L eg of M utton
S hou l der of M utton
L oin of M utton
N eck of M utton
F ore Quarter of L amb
S ir l oin of Beef
R i bs of Beef
R ound of B eef
A itch bone of Beef
-

R ump or B uttock of B eef

T ongue
C a lFs Head
L oin of V eal
 CON TE N TS .

Fille t of V eal
Breas t of V eal
K nuck l e of V eal
Shou l der and Nec k of V eal
L eg or Hand of Por k
Spare rib of Por k
Ha m
‘

Sucking Pig

PO U LT R Y AND GA M E .

G oose
T urke y
Fowl
D uc k
Wi l d D uck
Pheasant
G rouse
Partridge
W oodcock or
Pigeons
Sma l l B irds
Hare
R abbit

TOAST S AND SENT I MENTS .

Amatory
B acchanalian
C omic
C onservative
G as tronomic
l
E ng ish
I rish '

Scotch
L iberal
L iterar y
L o yal
I¢a va l
R elig i ous
SSenthne ntal
S po rting
ldhwena neo us
 fit Q
t i f phraim:
E
’
uuflthge e t quttte or

I .
- I NTR ODU CTIONS .

To introd uce persons wh o are mutu ally un k nown is to under .

take a serious responsib ility and to certify t o each th e t e

,

spectabilit
y of the other Never undertak e this responsibi l it y
.

without in the first place asking yourse l f wheth er the persons

are like l y to be a greeab l e t o each oth er nor in the secon d -
,

ace without asce rtaining whether it wi ll be acceptable to

l
pth parties to become acquainted
,

Always introduce the gent l eman t o the lad y— never the

lady to the gent l eman The chivalry of etiquette assumes
.

that th e lady is invariably th e su perior in right of her se x ,

an d that the gentleman is honoured in the introduction This .

ru l e is to be observed even wh en the social rank of the gen ~

tle m a n is higher than that of th e lady .

W here the sexes are the same alwa y s present th e inferior

,

to the supe n o r
’

Never pres en t a gentleman t o a lad y w ithout fi rst as k ing

her permission to do so .

W hen you are introduc ed to a gentleman n ever o ffe r y our .

ha nd W hen introduced persons lim it their recognition of

.
,

each other to a bow O n the C ontinen t ladies never shak e

.
,

hands with gentlemen unless under circums tances of great

m tIm a cy .

Never introduce morn ing v isitors wh o happen to encounter

each other in y our d rawing room un l ess they are persons
-
,

whom you have a l ready obtain ed p e rm ission to mak e kn own

to each other V isitors thus casua ll y meeting in the house of
.

a friend should converse with ease and freedom as if they ,

were acquainted T hat th ey are both friends of the hoste ss

.

is a su ffi cient guarantee of their respectabilily T o be silen t .

I
z E TI QUE TTE For L AD IE S .

an d sti ff o n such an occas ion would show much ignorance and -

ill breeding
-
.

Persons who hav e met at th e house of a mutual friend ,

wi thout be ing introduced sh ould not bow if the y afterwards

,

m eet elsewhere A bow imp l ies acquaintance an d persons

.

who have not been in troduced are not acquaint ed .

I f you are walking with one friend and presently meet ,

with or are j oined by a third do n ot commit th e too fre

, , ,

quen t error of introducing them t o each other You have .

e ven less right to do so th a n i f the y encountered each other

'

a t your hous e during a m orn ing cal l .

T here are some exceptions to the etiquette of introductions .

At a ball or evening party where there is dancing th e m is

, ,

tress o f the house ma y introduce any gentleman to an y lady

B ut she shou l d
’
w ithout fi rst ask ing the lady s permission .

fi rst ascertai n whether the lady is wil l ing to d ance and this
ou t of consideration for th e gentleman who ma y otherwise ,

be refus ed No m an likes to be refused the h and of a lad y

.
,

though i t be onl y for a quadrille .

A sister may presen t her brother or a mother h er son , ,

without an y kind of preliminary but only when there is no

i nferiority on the part of her own fami l y to that of the a c '

quaintance .

Friends ma y introduce friends at th e hous e o f a mutual

acquaintance ; but as a rul e i t is better to b e introduced b y
, ,

the mistress of the house Such an introduction carri es more

.

authority with i t .

I ntroductions at evening parties are no w almost wholl y

dis pensed with Persons who m eet at a fri end s house are
.
’

o stensib l y upon an equality and pay a bad compliment to ,

the host by appearing suspicious an d formal S om e old .

fashioned country hosts yet persevere i n introducing each new

comer to all the assemb l ed guests I t is a custom that cannot .

be too soon abo lished an d one that laces the last unfo r
,

tuna te visitor in a singu l arly a wkwar position All that .

sh e can do is to mak e a semicircu l ar courtesy li k e a concert ,

singer before an audience an d bear the general gaze with

,

as much composure as possible .

If when y o uenter a dra wing room y o ur nam e has been

,
-
,

W r ongly announced or has passed u nheard i n the bu zz of con

,

versation mak e your way a t once to the mis tress of the house
, ,
i f you are a stranger and i ntroduce y ourself b y n ame
, T his .

shou l d be done with the greatest si mplicit y, and y our rank

made as little of as possible .

An introduction given at a b all fo r the mere purpos e of

 E TI QUE TTE FOR L AD IES .
3
'

co nducting a la d y through ad ance does not give the gentle

m a n any right to bow to her on a futur e occasi on I f he .

commits this error she ma y reme m ber that she is n ot b ound

,

to see, o r return, his s alutation .

IL — L ETT ER S or I NT R OD U CT ION .

Do no t lightl y give or promise letters of introduction . Ai

ways remember that when you give a letter of introduction
y ou lay y ourse l f under an ob l igation to the frien d to whom i t
is addressed If she lives i n a great city such as Paris or
.
,

L ondon you i n a m easur e compe l her to undergo the penal ty

,

of escorting the stranger to some of thos e p l aces of pub l ic

entertainment in which the capita l abounds If your friend .

he a married lady and the m istre ss of a house you pu t her

, ,

to the expense of inviting the stranger to her tab l e W e can .

not be too cautious how we tax the time and purse o f a friend ,

or weigh too seriousl y th e question of mutual advantage in

the introduction Always ask y oursel f whether the p erson
.

i ntroduced wi l l be an acceptab l e acquaintance to the one to

whom you present her and whether the pleasure of knowing
her wil l compensate for the t ime or m one y which i t costs to
entertain her I f the stranger is i n a ny way unsuitab l e i n
.

habits or temp erament you inflict an a nn oyance on your

,

friend instead of a pleasure In questions of introduction

.

never oblige one friend to the discom fort of another .

T hose to whom letters of introduction have been give n

sh ou l d send th em t o the person to whom they are addressed ,

and enclose a card N ever de l iver a l etter of introduction in

.

person I t places you i n th e m ost und ignified position ima

.

ginable and compe l s you to wait while it is being rea d li ke

, ,

a servant who has bee n told to wait for an answer T here is .

also another reason why you should n ot be yourse l f the bearer

of your introduction ; you compel th e other p erson to
receive you whether she chooses or not It m ay be that sh e
,
.

is sufii ciently ill bred t o tak e no n otice of the letter when sent
-
,

and in such case if you presented yourself with it she wou l d

, ,

most probab l y receive you with rudeness I t is at all events .

, ,

more polite on y our part to give her the option and perhaps , , ,

m ore pleasant I f the receiver of the letter be a rea lly we l l

.

bred p erson she w ill call up on you or leave her card the nex t
,

day an d y ou sho ul d re turn her attentions within th e week

,
.

If, on the oth er h and , a stranger sends y ou a letter of int ro

1- 2
7
E TI Q UE TTE FOR L AD I E S .

duction and her card y ou are boun d b y the laws of p oli t e ness
,

a nd hospita l ity not o nly to call upon her the n ext day but
, ,

to fo l low u p that attention with others If y ou are in a posi .

tion to do so the m ost co rrect proceed ing is to invite her t o

,

dine with you Should this not be within your power y ou

.
,

can probably escort her to some of th e exhibitions baz aars , ,

or concerts of the season any of which wou l d be interesting

t o a foreigner or provincial visitor I n short etiquette de .
,

mands that y ou shal l exert yourse l f t o show k indness to the

stranger if only out of comp l iment to the friend who intro
,

d uce d her to you .

I f you invite her to dine with y ou i t is a better complimen t ,

to ask some others to meet her than to dine with her tale
téta . You are thereby giving her an opportunity of m aking
other acquaintances and are assisti ng your friend in still far
,

ther promoting the purpose for which she gave her the intro
duction to yourse l f .

B e careful at the same time only to as k such persons as she

will feel are at least her own socia l equals .

A letter of introduction shou l d be given unsealed n ot alone ,

because y our friend may wish to kno w what you have said of
her but a l so as a guarantee of your own good faith As you
, .

shou l d n ever give such a letter un l ess you can spea k highl y of
the bearer this rule of etiquette is easy to obse rve By re
, .

questing your friend to fasten the enve l ope before forwarding

the letter to its destination y ou tacitl y give her p ermission to
,

i nspect its contents .

L et y our note paper b e of the best quality and the proper

-

Al bert or Queen s si z e is the best for these purpos es

’
s i ze. .

“
I t has been we ll said that attention to the punctilios of
politeness is ”a proof at once of se l f respect and of respect for
-
,

y our friend T hough irksome at fi rst these trifles soon

.
,

cease to be matters for memory and becom e things of mere ,

habit T o the thorough l y we ll bred they are a second nature

.
-
.

L e t no on e neg l ect them who is desirous of p l easing in societ y

and above a ll let n o on e deem them unworthy of attention
, , .

T he y are precise ly the trifles which do most t o mak e social

intercours e agreeab l e an d a knowledge of which distingu ishes
,

the gentlewoman from the pa nza m a .

I II .
- V ISITI NG — MOR NING C A L LS —CA R DS
. . .

A morning v isit shoul d be paid b etween the hours of two

and four pm
. .
,
in winter, and two and fi ve in summer . By
6 E TI QUE T TE FOR L AD IE S .

af ter the death of one of i ts mem be rs it is etiquette to wea r ,

slight mourning .

U mbre llas should invariably be left in the hall .

N ever take favourite dogs into a drawing room when y o u -

m ake a m orning ca ll T heir feet may be dusty or they ma y

.
,

bark at the sight of strangers or being of too friendly a dis , ,

p osition may take the liberty of lying on a l ady s gown or

,
’
,

j umping on the sofas and easy chairs W here your friend .

ha s a favour ite cat already establ ished before the fire a battl e ,

m a y ensue and one or other of th e p ets b e seri ously hurt

, .

B esides many p ersons have a cons titutional antipathy to dogs

, ,

and o thers never a ll o w their own to be seen in th e sitti ng

rooms Fo r a l l or any of these reasons a visitor has no right
.
,

to inflict upon her friend the society of her dog as well as of

herse l f Neither is i t we ll for a mother to t ake young chil
.

dren with her when she pays morning visits their presence ,

un l ess they are unusua ll y we ll trained can on l y be productive ,

of anxiety to both yourse l f and your hostess She whi l e .

,

striving to amuse them or to appear interested in them is , ,

s ecret l y anxious for the fate of her a l bum or the ornam ents ,

on her étage‘ra while the moth er is trembling lest her chi l dre n
should say or do something obj ectionab l e .

I f other visitors are announced and you h ave al ready re ,

m ained as long as courtesy requires wait ti l l they are seat ed , ,

and then rise from your chair take l ea ve of your hostess and , ,

bow po l itely to th e newl y arrived guests Y ou wi l l perhaps .

, ,

b e urged to remain but having once risen i t is best t o go

, , , .

T here is always a certain ai r of g a ucbm e in resuming y our

'

seat and repeating the ceremony of l eave tak ing -

.

I f y ou have occasion to look at your watch during a call ,

ask permission to d o so an d apologise for i t on the plea o f

,

other appointments .

I II receiving morn ing v isitors i t is n ot n ecessa y that the ,

r

lady should lay aside the emp l oyment in which she may be
engaged particu l ar l y if i t consists of l ight or orn amental
,

need l e work Po l iteness however requires that music draw

-
.
, , ,

ing or any occupation which wou l d complete l y engross the

,

a ttention be at once abandoned

, .

You n eed not advance to rece ive visitors when a nno uncetL
unless they are persons to who m you are d esirous of testifying
articular attention I t is su ffi cien t if a l ady rises to receive
per v isi tors moves forward a singl e step to shake hands with
.

them and remains stan ding ti l l they are seated

, .

W hen y our visitors rise to tak e leave y ou should rise also ,

and remain standing t ill the y hav e quite left the room Do .
 B TI QUE 7 7 5 FOR L ADIES .
1
no t a cco mpan y them to th e door but be careful to rin g in
,

good tim e that the

,
servan t may be read y i n the hall to let
them out .

A lad y should dress well but n ot too richl y when sh e pa ys

, ,

a morning visit If sh e has a carriage at com m and she ma y

. ,

dress m ore elegantly than if she were on foot T he question .

of morning an d aft ernoon dress will be found full y tr eat ed in

Section V I I .

I V — C o nvna sar ro u
. .

T here is n o con versation so graceful so vari e d so sparklin g , , ,

as that of an in tellectual and cultivated woman E xce l lenc e .

i n this particular is indeed on e of the attributes o f the se x

, , ,

an d should be cu l tivated b y every gentlewoman who aspires

to please i n general society .

I n order to ta lk we ll thre e conditions are indisputable

, ,

namel y— tact a good memory and a fair education

, , .

R em ember that people tak e m ore in terest in their o wn

a ffai rs than i n anything els e whi ch y ou can name I f y o u .

w ish y our conversation t o b e thorough l y agreeable lead a ,

mother to ta l k of her children a young lady of her last ba ll, ,

an auth or of his forthcoming book or an artist of his e xhibi t ,

t ion picture Having furnished the topic y o u n eed onl y

.
,

l isten ; and you are sure to be though t n ot on l y agree able ,

but thoroughly sensible and we ll informed -

.

B e carefu l however on th e other hand n ot alwa y s to mak e

, , ,

a point of talking to persons upon general matters relating to

their professions T o show a n interest in their immediat e
.

concerns is fl attering ; but to converse with the m too much

abo ut their own arts loo ks as if y ou th ought them ignorant of
other topics .

”
R emember in conversation that a voice gentle an d low
is above all other ext ran eous acquirements “ an exce ll en t
, ,
”
thing in woman T here is a certain distinct bu t subdue d
.

tone of voice which is peculiar t o on ly well bred persons A -

.

loud voice is both d isagreeable and vul gar I t is better to .

err b y the use of too low than too loud a ton e .

“ la n ”
R emember that all s g is vu lgar I t has become o f. .

la te unfortunatel y prevalent an d we kn ow man y ladies who

,

pride th emselves on the sauc y ( fizgue with which the y adop t

'

certain Am erican isms and other cant phrases of the da y

, .

Such habi ts cannot b e too severel y reprehended T he y lowe r .

the ton e of society and the standard of thought It is a grea t .

8 E TI QUE TTE FOR L ADIE S .

m ist ake to suppose that slang is in an y wa y a sub stitu t e fo r

T he use of proverbs Is equally vulgar I n conversation an d ,

puns unless they rise to the ran k of witticisms are to be

, ,

scrupu l ous ly avoided A lady punster is a m ost unpleasing

.

phenomenon and we wou l d advis e n o young woman how

, ,

e ver w i tty she m ay b e to cu l tivate this kind of verbal ta l ent

, .

L ong arguments in general company however entertaining ,

to the disputants are tiresome to the l ast degr ee to a l l others

, .

Y ou shou l d a l ways endeavour t o prevent th e conversation

from dwe ll ing too l ong upon on e topic .

wR eIigio n is a topic which should n ever be introduced i n

soci ety I t is the on e subj ect on which persons are m ost
'

l ike l y to di ffer and least able t o preserve temper

, .

Never interru pt a person who is spe aking I t has been .

‘

a ptly said that if you interrupt a speaker in the midd l e of

his sentence you act al most as rudely as if when wal king
, ,

with a companion y ou were to thrus t yourse lf before him

, ,
”
a nd stop his progress .

T o l l sten we ll i s a l most as great an art as to talk well It .

is not enough only to listen You must endeavour to seem

.

i nterest ed i n the conversation of others .

I t 1 5 considered extremely ill bred when two persons whis

pm in society or converse in a la ngua ge wit h which a l l present
,

are not fami l iar I f you have private matters to discuss you
.
,

shou l d appoint a proper time and place to do so without ,

pa ying othe rs the ill compliment of e x cluding them from y our

c onversation .

If a foreigner b e on e o f th e gu ests at a small party an d ,

d oes not unde rs tand Engl ish su fii ciently to fo ll ow what is said ,

good breeding demands that the conversation shall be carried
o n i n his own language If at a dinner party the same rule
.
-
,

a p l ies to those at his end of th e tabl e

p .

I f u on the ent rance of a visitor you carry on the threa d of

p
a previ ous conversation you shou l d briefl y recapitulate t o
,

h im what has bee n said before he arrived .

D o not be a lway s witty even though y ou should be so hap

,
‘

p ily gifted as to n eed the caution I o out shin e others on .

e very occasion is the surest road to unpopularity .

Alway s lo o k but never sta re at those with whom y ou

'

, ,

converse .

I n order to meet the gen eral needs of conversation i n

society it is necessary that a gent l ewoman should be a c
,

qua inted with the curren t news and historical events of at

l ea s t the l ast few y ears .
 E n o0 12TTE FOR L ADIE S .
9

Never tal k upon subj ects of which y ou k now no th ing , un

l ess it be for the purpose of acquiring information Man y .

y oung ladies imagine that because they play a little s ing a , .

litt l e dra w a litt l e and frequent exhibitions and operas the y

, , ,

are qua l ified j udges of art No m ista k e is mor e egregious or

.

universal .

T hose wh o int roduce an ecdotes in to their conversation are

“
war ned that these should invariabl y be short witt y elo , ,
”
quent new and not far fetched
, ,
- .

Scandal is the least exc usable of all co nversational v ulgari ~

In conversing with a woman of rank do not too frequentl y ,

give her h er tit l e O nly a lady s maid interlards every sen

.
’
-

“ “ ”
tence with M y L ady or M y L ord I t is however
, .
, ,

we ll to show that you remember th e station of your interlo

ent e r by now and then introducing some such phrase as I
think I have already mentioned to y our G race —o r I ,
be l ieve Madam you were observing
, ,

A peer or baron m a y occa siona l l y as i n an address b e , ,

”
styled My L ord but a lad y of equal rank must only be
,
”
addressed as M adam I II genera l however a noblema n
.
, ,

or l ady of high rank should on l y be addressed as y ou wou l d

address any other gentleman or lad y The Prince of W a l es .

“ ”
h imse l f is on ly sty led Sir in conversation and the Quee n ,
”
Mad am .

V —N0 TEs
. or I NVIT A T ION, &c .

Notes of invita tion an d acceptance are written in the th ird

p erson and the simplest style T he old -fashioned preliminary .

of presenting compliments is discont inued by the most

elegant letter writers .

A ll notes of invitatio n are now issued in the name of the

mistress of the house onl y as fo ll ows ,

M rs No rman re que sts the ho no ur o f Si Geo rge a nd La dy Thur

. r

lo w s co mpa ny a t a n e ve ning party o n M o nda y ”

’
f
4 th o j une , , 1 .

O thers prefer the subj oined form wh ich is purchaseabl e ,

ready printed upon either cards or note paper, wit h blanks

for names or dates
M s No rm an r .
,
A t ho me ,

Mo nday eve nIng June the 4 th instant , 1 .

A n
“ At home is, however, considered somewhat less
to E n oUE TTE FOR L AD IES

statel y than an eveni ng part y an d p artak es m ore o f the , ch!

ra cterof a conver saz zbne .

T he repl y to a note of invi tation should b e couched as

follows
Mr . Be rkel e y has m u ch pl asur e in accepti ng Mrs” e . No rma n s ’

po lit e
invitati o n fo r M o nday eveni ng June the 4 th insta nt ,
1 .

Never avail y our se lf of an inv itation Above all .

,
“ ”
n ever spea k or w ri te of an invitati on as an in vi te I t is .

ne ither good breed ing nor good E ng l ish .

Notes of invitation and reply should b e wri tten on small

paper of the b es t q uality an d en close d in envel opes to corre ,

SIJond .

No te pa per of the m ost dainty an d fastidious ki nd may be

used by a lady with prop riety and elegan ce but o nly wh en ,

she is writing to her friends and equals B us iness letters or .

l etters to her tradesp eople should be written on plain aper ,

and enc l osed either in an adhes ive envelop e or seal with ,

red wax .

Never omit the address an d date from any letter whether ,

of busin ess or friendship .

L etters in the fi rst p erson add re ssed to st rangers should

“ “ ” “
begin with Sir or M adam and end with , I hav e ,

the honour to b e your very obe dien t servant, Some obj ec t

t o this form of words from a mistaken sense of p rid e ; but i t
is merel y a form and right l y apprehended evinces a “ proud
. , ,
”
humi l ity which im plies m ore condescension than a l ess
,

formal phrase .

A t the end of your letter at som e little distance below ,

y our signature and in the left corner of your paper write th e

, ,

n ame of the person to who m y our letter is addressed ; as

“ ady ” ”
L Dalhousie or Edward M unro e E squire
, ,
.

I t is more polite to write Esq uire at full length th an to

curtai l i t to Esq .

I n writing t o perso s much y our superior or i nferior use

“

,
,

as few words as p ossib le I n the former cas e t o take u p .

,

much of a great man s time is to take a l iberty in the latter

’
,

to be d i ffuse is to be too fami l iar I t is only i n fam ili ar cor .

re spondence that long letters are permi ssib l e .

I n writing to a tradesman begin y o ur letter b y addressin g ,

him by nam e as ,

M r J ones — Sir
.
, .

A letter thus begun ma y with propriet y be end ed wi th , ,

”
Sir yours tru l y
, .

L etters to persons whom y ou m eet frequentl y in soci et y,

 E TI Q UE T TE F OR L ADIES . it

without havi ng arrived at intimac y, may commence with

’

”
D ear M adam , and end with I am , dear M a dam , y ours
”
very truly .

L etters commen cing “ My dear M adam addressed to ,

er sons whom you a ppreciate an d with whom you are on

p
,

rie nd l terms may end with

y I am my dear M adam y ours
, , ,
” ”
very faithfu ll y or yours very sincere l y
, .

T o b e prompt in replying to a l etter is to be polite .

L ad y co rr espondents are t oo apt to over emph asi z e in their -

letter writing and in genera l evince a sad disregard of the

-
,

laws of punctuation VVe wou l d respectfu l ly suggest that a

.
-

comm a is not design ed to answer every purpose and that th e ,

u nde rlining o f every second or third word adds n othing t o

’

the eloquence or c l earn ess of a letter however certain it ma y ,

be t o provoke an unflatterin g smile u p on the li ps of the

reader .

A ll letters must be prepaid .

V L — T HE P R OM E NA DE .

I n England , a lady m ay accept the arm of a gentleman

with wh om sh e is wal king even though he b e on l y an ac ,

quaintance T his is n ot th e case either in America or on th e

.

C ontinent T here a l ady ca n tak e the a rm of n o gent l eman

.

wh o is not either her husband lover or near re l ative , , .

I f a lady has been making purchases during h er walk sh e ,

ma y permit the gent l eman who accompan ies her to carry any
smal l parcel that sh e may have i n her own hand ; but sh e
shou l d n ot burthen him with more than on e under any cir
cu m sta nce s whatever .

Two ladies may without any impropriety tak e each one arm
of a single cava l ier but on e l ady ca nnot with either gra ce or ,

the sanctio n of custom take the arms of two gentlemen at the

same time .

W hen a lady is walking with a gentleman i n a park or ,

ublic garden or through the rooms of an e xhibitIo n and

peco mes fatigued it is the gentleman s duty to fi nd her a
, ,
’
,

seat I f however as is ve ry frequently the case he is him

.
, , ,

se l f obl iged to remain standing the l ady should mak e a point ,

of rising as soon as she is su ffi cient l y rest ed and not abuse ,

either the patience or po l iteness of her companion .

I t is the place of the lad y to bow fi rst if she m eets a ,

gentleman of her acquaintan ce .

lz E TI Q UE T TE FOR L AD IE S .

W hen y ou meet fri en ds or acquaintances in the s t reets the ,

e xhibitions or an y publi c places be careful not to pronounce

, ,

their names so l oud l y as to attract the attention of b y standers .

Never ca l l across the street or attempt to carry on a di alogu e

,

in a public veh icle unless y ou r interlocutor occupies th e sea t

,

b esi de y our o wn .

V I I. —D R E S S.

To dress well r equires something m ore than a full pu rse

and a pretty figure I t needs taste good sense an d re fine
.
, ,

m ent . D ress may almost be classed as one of the fin e arts .

I t is c ertainly on e of those arts the cu l tivat ion of which is ,

indispensab l e to any person mov ing in the upper or m iddle

c l asses of soc iety V ery c l ever women are too frequent l y in
.

d ifferen t to the graces of the toilette and women who wish

to be thought clever affect i ndi fference In the on e cas e i t is .

an e rror and in the other a folly I t is n ot enough that a

,
.

gent l ewoman sho uld be clever or well educated or we l l bo rn ,

-
,
- .

T o take her due p l ace in society she must be acquainted ,

with all that th is little book proposes to teach She mus t .

,

above a l l else know ho w to enter a room how to perform a

, ,

graceful salutation and ho w to dress O f these three im

, .

portant qual ifications th e m ost imp ortant b ecause th e most

, ,

observed is the latter

, .

L e t your style of dress always be appropriate to the hour

of th e day T o dress too fine l y in the morn ing or to be see n
.
,

in a m orning dress in the evening is e qua ll y v ulgar and out ,

of place .

L ight and inexpensive materials are fi ttest for morning

wear dark si lk dresses for the promenade or ca rriage an d
low dresses of rich or transparent stu ffs for the dinn er an d
b all. A young lady cannot dre ss with too much simplici t y
i n the ear l y part of the day A m orning dress of some simple .

m ateri al and delicate whole colour with c ollar and cu ffs of

, ,

spotless linen is perhaps the most becoming and elega nt of

, , ,

morning to il ettes .

N ever dress very richly or sho wily in the street It a t .

t racts attention o f no envi abl e kind and is looked upon as a ,

want of good breed ing I n the carriage a lady may dress as

.

e l egant l y as s he pleas es W ith resp ec t to ba l l room t oi l ette

.
-
,

i ts fashions are so variable that statements which are tru e o f

,

i t to da y ma y be false a month hence R espe cting no insti

-
, .
I4 E TI QUE T TE FOR L AD I ES .

sive k ind ; wear n o bracelets ; and limit yo ur j ewellery t o a

good brooch gold chain an d watch Your diamonds an d
, , .

p earls would be as much out of place during the morni ng as

a lo w dress or a wreath
,
.

I t is we ll to remember in the choic e of j ewellery that mere

costliness is not a l ways the test of va l ue and that an exqui
site work o f art such as a fin e cameo or a natural rarity
, , ,

such as a black pearl is a more dialing ”! possessi on than a

,

large brilliant which any rich and taste l ess vulgarian can bu y
as eas il y as yoursel f O f a l l precious stones the opal is one
.
,

of the m ost lovel y and least commonp l ace No vul gar .

woman purchases an opal Sh e invariab l y prefers the more

.

showy ruby emera l d or sapphire

, , .

A true gentle wo m a n is a l ways faultl essly n ea t

‘

No rich .

ness of toi l ette in the afternoon n o diamonds in the evening , ,

can atone for unbrushed hair a so iled collar or untidy slippers

, ,

at breakfas t .

Never be seen in the street with out gloves and n ever le

y our gl oves be of any materia l that is not kid or calf W o rstet .

or cotton gl oves are unutterably vulgar Your gloves sho ulc . .

fi t to the last degree of peIf eetio n .

In these days of pub l ic baths and universal pro gress we ,

trust that i t is unnecessary to do more than hi nt at the neces

sity of the m ost fastidious p ersonal c l ean l iness The hair .
,

the teeth the nails shoul d be fau l t l ess l y kept and a m us l in

, ,

dress that has been worn once too often a dingy pocket hand ,
-

kerchief or a soi l ed pair of l ight g l oves are things to be

, ,

scrupu l ously avoided by any young l ady who is am bitio ns of

preserving the exte rior of a gen tlewoman .

R emember that the make of yo ur cor sage is of eve n greater

importance than th e make of your dress No dr essmaker .

ca n fi t you well or m ak e your bodices in th e m anner most

,

becoming to your figure if the corrage beneath be not of the

,

best description .

Your boots and gloves should always b e faultless .

P erfumes should be used on l y in the evening and th en i n ,

m oderation L et your p erfumes be of the most de l icate an d

.

rec/zer d zé kind Nothing is more vul gar than a coarse ordi

.

nary scent and of all coarse ordinary scents the most o h

, ,

jectio nable are m usk and patchou l i .

Fin al ly every l ady shou l d remember that to dress well i s

,

a duty which she owes t o society ; but that t o mak e i t her

id ol is to commit something worse than a foll y Fashi on is .

made fo r wo man ; n o t woman fo r fas hi on

'

.
 ETI QUE T TE For L ADI ES . I5

VI I I — MOR NI NG AND EVENI NG P A R TI ES ‘

. .

The m orning party is a m odern invention I t was nu .

kn o wn to our fathers and mothers and even to ourse l ves till ,

quite latel y A morn ing part y is seldom given out of the

.

season — that i s to say during an y months except those of ,

May June and Jul y I t begins about two o c l ock and ends
’
, , .

about five and the entertainmen t consists for the most part
,

of conversation music and ( if there be a arden ) croque t

la wn bil l iards archery & c “
,
g ,

Aunt Sa l ly 1 5 n ow out of
,

fashion T he refreshments are giv en i n theyform of ”4mm

, , .

d It: fou rcbelte .

E l egant m orning dress general good manners an d some , ,

acquaintance with the topics of the day and the g mes above a

named are all the qualifications especial ly necessary to a lad y

,

a t a morning party .

An even i ng part y begins about nine o cloc k p m and ends ’

.
,

about midnight or somewhat later Good breeding neither

, .

demands th at y o u shou l d present y ourself at the commence

m ent no r remain till the close of th e evening
, Y ou come .

and go as may be m ost conveni en t t o you and by these ,

means are at libert y during the heigh t of the season whe n

,

evening parties are numerous t o present y ourself at two or ,

three houses during a single even ing .

When y our name is announc ed loo k for th e lad y of the ,

hous e and pay your respects to her before y ou even seem to

,

see any other of your friends who may be in the room At .

very large and fashionable receptions th e hostess is general ly ,

to be found near the door Should you however find your . , ,

self separated b y a dense crowd of guests you are at l ibert y ,

to recogniz e thos e who ar e near you and those whom you ,

e ncounter as o n ma ke your wa y s l ow l y through the throng

G eneral saf u
.

ta tio ns of the company are n ow who l l y disused .

In societ y a lady onl y recogni z es her own friends and a c

qua inta nces .

If y ou are at the hous e of a new acquaintance and fi nd

yourself amo entire strangers remember that by so meeting ,

md er one roo you are a l l In a certai n sense made known to

one another and sh ould tlI ere fOI e co nve I se e e l y as equals
, , , , .

To shrink awa y to a side table a nd a ff ect to be absorbed in

som e album or ill ustrated work ; or if y ou fi nd one un l uck y ,

acq uainta nce in th e room to fasten upon her like a drowning ,

man clinging to a spar , are germ /terry: which no sh y ness can

CXCUSC .
 36 E n oUE T TE FOR L ADIE S .

If y ou possess musica l accomplishm ents do not wait

any ,

to be pressed and entreated b y your hostess but compl y i m ,

mediatel y when she pays you the compliment of inviting y ou

t o pla y or sing R emember however that only th e lady of
.
, ,

the house has th e right to ask you If others do so you .

,

n put them o ff in som e polite wa y but must not c omply

ti ll the hostess herself invites you .

Be scrupulous to observe si l ence when an y of th e c ompany

ar e playing or singing R emember that they are doing thi s
.

for the amusement of th e rest ; and that to ta lk at such a

time is as il l bred as if y ou were to turn your back upon a
-

person who was tal king to y ou an d begin a conversation with ,

some one else .

I f you are yourself th e p e rform er bear i n m ind that i n ,

”
music as in speech
,
brevity is the soul of wi t
, T wo .

verses of a song or four pages of a piece are at all ti mes

, ,

enough to give p l easure I f your audience desire more they

.

wi l l ask for more ; and i t is infinite l y more flattering to be

encored than to receive the thanks of your hearers n ot so ,

much i n gratitude for what you have given them but in re ,

lief that you have left off You shou l d try to suit your .

music l ik e y our conversation to y our company A so l o of

, , .

B eethoven s wou l d be as much out of p l ace in some c irc l es as

’

’
a comic song at a quakers meeting T o those who only care .

for th e light popu l arities of the seas on give Ba l fe and V erd i , ,

G lover and j u l ien T o connoisseurs if you perform we l l

.
,

enough to venture give such music as wi ll be like l y to m eet

,

the exigencies of a fine taste A bove a ll attemp t nothing .

,

that you cannot execute with ease and precision .

I f the part y he of a small and social k ind and those gam es ,

c alled by the French If : j eux i nnocents are propos ed do not ,

obj ect to jo in in them when invited I t may be that the y .

d emand some slight exercise of wit and readiness and that ,

y ou do not feel yoursel f calculated to shine in them ; but it

is better to seem du ll than disagreeab l e and those who are ,

ob l iging c an always find some c l ever neighbour to as sist them

in the moment of need .

I m pro m tu charades are frequentl y organi z ed at friendl y

parties I n l ess you have rea l ly some ta l ent for acting and
.

some readiness of speech you should remember that y o u ,

o n l y put others out and expose your own inabi l ity by taking
part in these entertainments O f cou rse if your help is really .
,

needed and y ou ould disob l ige y refusing you must d o

our best and by going i t as uie t y an d coo lly as p o ssible,
,

p ,

Zvo id be ing awk ward or ridicule“

,

.
 E TI Q UE TTE FOR L ADIE S . 17

Even though y ou ma y tak e no pleasure in

k nowled ge of th e etiquette and rules belonging to the gam es
m ost in vogu e is necessar y to you i n soc iety If a fourth .

hand is wanted at a rubber, or if the rest of th e comp any si t

down to a round gam e , you woul d be deemed guil ty of an
im politeness if y ou refused to j oin .

T h e games most commonly pla y ed in society are W his t,

l oo , wing -( L a m and speculation .

W hist req uires four players A pac k of cards be ing .

’

spread upon the table with their faces downwards the fou r ,

p l ayers draw for partners T hose who draw the two highest
.

cards and those who draw the two lowes t become p ar tners .

T he lowest of all claims the deal .

M arri ed people should not pla y at the same table unl ess ,

where the part y is so sma l l that it cannot be avoid ed T his .

rule supposes nothing so disgracefu l to any marri ed couple as

dishonest col l usion but persons who p l ay regularl y toge ther
cannot fai l to know so much of each other s mod e of acting ’
,

under given c ircumstanc es that th e chances n o longer re main

,

perfect l y even in favour of their adversari e s .

Never play for higher stakes than y ou can afford to lose

without regret C ards should b e resort ed to for am usemen t
.

o nly for excitement n ever , .

No well-bred person ever loses temper at the card -table .

Y ou have no right to sit do wn to th e game unless y ou can

bear a long run of ill luc k wi th perfect composure an d are
-
,

prepa red cheerfu ll y to pass over an y bl un ders that your p art

n er ma y chance to make .

If y ou are an indifferent pla y er m ak e a poin t of saying so ,

before you j oi n a party at whist I f th e o thers are fin e .

p layers they will be infinite l y more obliged to y ou for decl in

I ng tha n a ccepting their invitation In any case yo u have no .

right to spoil their p l easure by your bad play .

Never l et even po l iteness induce y e n to play for very high

stak es Etiquette is the minor mora l ity of life but i t never
.

should be allowed to out weigh the higher c od e of right and

wrong .

Young ladies may declin e to pla y at cards withou t being

deem ed guilty of impo l iteness .

No very y oung lad y should appear at an ev ening party

without an escort .

I n ret iring from a crowded part y it is unnecessary tha t y ou

Fo r a su ccinct gui de to h t loo g

W is , vmg t-ci -u n, cula tio r , i& c. , &o ,
‘

&c , m R o utledge Card-pla y er, by G F Par n pri ce m

' ’
. s . .
, fl m .

I
[8 E TI Q UE T TE FOR L AD I ES .

should se ek out the hostess for th e purpose of bi dding her a

form al good nigh t By doing this y ou wou l d perhaps re
- .
, ,

mind others that it was getting l ate and cause the part y t o ,

break u p If y ou meet the lady of the hous e on y o ur wa y

.

to the dra wing room door tak e your l eave of her as unoh
-
,

trusive ly as possib l e and sl ip awa y without attrac ting th e

,

a tt enti on of her other guests .

I X — T HE D I NNER -T A BL E
. .

To be acquainted with eve ry detail of the etiquette per

taining to th is subj ect is of the highest importance to every
gent l ewoman Ease sa w ir f a in an d good bree di ng are
.
, ,

n owhere more indispensab l e than at the dinn er -tab l e and ,

the absence of them is n owhere m ore a pp arent Ho w to .

eat soup and what to do with a cherry-stone ar e weight y con

s iderations when taken as th e index of social status an d i t
i s not too much to say that a young woman who elected t o
,

take claret with her fish or at e p eas w ith her knife would , ,

j ust l y risk the punishment of being b a nished from good

society .As th is subj ect is o ne of the most important of
which we have to treat we may be pardoned for introducing ,

an appropriate anecdote related b y the French p oet D e

D eli lle and Ma rm o ntel were din ing together in the m onth
of A pril , 1 786 and the conversation happen ed to turn upon
,

dinner table customs M arm o ntel obse rved how m any l itt l e
-
.

things a we l l bred man was obliged to know if he would

-
,

avoid being ridiculous at the tab l es of h is friends .

T hey are indeed innumerable

,
said D elill e
,
and ,

the m ost ann oying fact of al l is that n ot a ll the wit an d good ,

s ense in the wor l d can he l p on e to divin e them untaught A .

l itt l e whi l e ago for instance the Abb é C osson who is Pro
, , ,

fess o r of L iterature at the C o ll ege M a z arin was describing ,

t o m e a gran d dinner to which h e had been invi ted at V e r

sa ill es and to which he had sat do wn in the compan y of peers,
,

princes and marsha l s of France

, .

‘
I ll wager now
’
said I that you committed a hun
,
’
,
‘

dred b l unders in the etiquette of the table

Ho w so replied th e A bbé somewhat nettl ed Wh at , .

blunders could I m ak e P I t seems to me that I did pr ec isel y

as o thers did
’
.

fi And I, on the contra ry, would s t ak e m y l ife that you

‘
 E TI QUE T I E F OR L AD I ES
’

. 19

d id no thing as others did B ut let us begin at the b eg inning .

,

and see wh ich is right I n the fi rst p l ace there was your .

ta ble napkin— what did y ou do with that when y ou sat do wn

'

at table
‘
What did I do wi th my table nap k in ? W hy I did -
,

l ik e the res t of the guests : I shook i t out of the folds spread ,

it before me and fasten ed on e corner to my button ho l e

,
-
.
’

V ery we ll m an you were the on l y p erson wh o

,

did so No one shakes spreads and fastens a tab l e-napkin

.
, ,

in that manner You shou l d have o nly laid it across y our

.

knees \Vha”t soup had y ou i

.
"

T urtle .

And how did y ou eat i t

L ike every on e e l se I suppose I too k m y spoon in , .

on e hand and my fork in the other

,

Your fork G ood heavens None but a savage eats

soup wi th a fork B u t go on What did y ou take n ext P
. .
’

’
A boil ed egg .

G ood and what d id y ou do with th e she ll ?

’

No t eat it certainly I left i t of course in the egg

, .
, ,

cup .

W ithou t break ing i t through with y o ur spoon ? ’

Withou t break ing i t .

’

T hen m y dear fe l lo w p erm it m e to tell you that no o ne

, ,

eats an egg without break ing the she l l an d l eaving the spoon
stand ing in i t And after your egg ?
’
.

I asked for some

I t i s a term that n o on e uses You
'

Fo r bo uillz I .

shou l d have asked for b eef— n ever for We ll and ,

”
after the bat/ 271i 5
I asked the Abb é de R adonvi l liers for some fowl
’
.

‘
W retch ed man ! Fow l indeed You shou l d have ,
“ ”
asked for chicken or capon T he word fo wl is never .

heard out of the kitchen B ut a ll this app l ies on l y to what .

y o u ate te l l me something of what you drank and how y ou

'

,
’
asked for it .

I asked for champagn e and bordeau x from those who

had the bott l es before them .
’

K now then my good friend that only a waiter who , , ,

has n o time or breath to spare asks for champagne or bor ,

deaux A gentleman asks for wi n ( 36 cha mpag ne and w}: ae

.
’ '

’
bor dea ux And now inform m e how you ate you r bread P
.

Undoubted l y lik e a l l th e rest of the world I cut it

’

up into sm al l square pieces with my k nife

’
.

‘
Th en let me tell y ou that no o ne cu t s bread You .
'

2 -
2
20 E TI QUE TTE M R L ADI ES .

shoul d alwa y s break it L et us go on to the coffee How . .

d id you drin k y ours ?

’

Pshaw ! At least I could mak e n o mistak e in that .

I t was boi l ing hot so I po ured it a littl e at a time , in th e

, ,
’
saucer and drank it as it cooled
,
.

E lz Men I then you assuredl y acted as n o other gentle

man in the roo m Nothing can be more vulgar than to pour
.

tea or co ffee into a saucer You shou l d have waited till i t .

c ooled and then have drun k i t from the cup ; And now you
,

see my dear cousin that so far from d oing precisel y as others

, ,

did y o u acted in n o on e respect according to th e laws pre

'

,
’
scribed by etiquette .

A n invitation to d in e should be replied t o immedi ately ,

and unequivocall y accepted or declined O nce accept ed .

,

n othing but an even t of the las t importance sho uld caus e yo u

to fai l in your engagement .

T o be exact ly punctua l is the strictest politeness on thes e

occasions I f you are too ear l y you are i n the way ; i f too
.
,

late you spoil the dinner ann oy the hostess a nd are hated
, , ,

by the rest of the guests S ome authorities are even of .

“
opinion that i n the question of a dinner part y never i s ” -

better than late“ and on e author h as gon e so far as to

say “ i f you do n ot reach the house till dinner is served y o u
, ,

had better retire and send an apology and not interrupt the
, ,

harmon y of the courses b y awkwar d e x c us es and cold accept

”
a nce .

When the part y is assembled the mistress or master of the ,

h ouse wi l l point out to each gen tleman the lady whom he is

t o conduct to table T he guests then go down according t o
.

precedence of rank T his order of preceden ce must be ar

.

ranged by the host or hostess as the guests are probabl y un ,

a cquainted an d cannot know each other s s o c ial rank

’
.
,

VVhen the society is of a distinguished kind the hostess

will do well to consult D ebrett or Bur k e before arranging ,

her visitors .

XVhe n ran k is not in question oth er cl aims to prec edenc e ,

m ust be considered Th e lady who is the greatest stranger

.

s hou l d be taken down by the master of the house and the ,

gentleman who is the greatest stran ger should conduc t the

h ostess M arried ladies tak e precedence of sing l e ladies,
.

e l der l adies of younger ones and so forth , .

When dinner is announced the host offers his arm to the ,

l ad y of m ost dist inc tion invites the rest to fo ll ow b y a fe w

,
word s or a bow and l eads the way, T he lady of the house .

Sho uld then fo ll o w with the gentleman who is m o st e nti tl ed

 22 5 7 1 0 UE T TE FOR L AD I E S .

ance .S till more old fash ioned and i n still worse t as t e is it

-
,
“ ”
to as k y our guests if they wi ll tak e soup or fish T he y .

are as much separate courses as the fish and the meat ; an d

al l experienced dine rs take both In an y case i t is inho s .
,

pita ble to appear to forc e a choice upon a visitor when that

, ,

visitor in a ll probabi l ity wi l l prefer to tak e his soup first an d

, ,

h is fish afterwards A ll well o rdered d inners begin with

.
o

s oup whether in s u mmer or winter

,
T he lady of the house .

shou l d hel p it and send i t round without asking each indi

,

vidua l in turn I t is as much an u nderstood thing as the

.

bread beside each p l ate and those who do not choose i t are
,

al ways at liberty to l eave i t untasted .

I n eating soup remember a l ways to ta k e it from the sid e

,

of th e spoon and to make no sound in doing so

, .

I f the servants do not go round with win e the gentl eme n

should he l p the l adies an d themse l ves t o sherry or sautern e
i mmediate l y after the soup .

You shou l d never ask for a secon d supply of either soup or

fish i t de l ays the next course an d keeps the tab l e waitin g ,
.

”
Never o ff er to assist your n eighbours t o this or that
d ish The word is inexpr essib l y vu l gar— all the m ore vu l gar
‘

for its a ffectation of e l egance S ha ll I sen d you som e .

” ”
m utton ? or may I he l p you to grouse ? is better chosen
an d better bred .

A s a genera l ru le i t is better n ot to as k y our gu ests i f th ey

,

wi ll partak e of the dishes but to send the p l ates round and ,

let them accept or dec l in e them as they p l ease A t ve ry .

large dinners it is sometimes customa ry to distribute litt l e

lists of the order of the d ishes at inte rvals a l ong the tab l e .

I t must b e confessed that this gives somewhat the air of a

di miter at an hote l but it has th e advantage of enab l ing the
visitors to se l ect their fare and as forewa rned is fore
, ,
”
armed to keep a corner as th e chi l dren say for their fa
, , ,
vo urite dishes .

As soon as y o u are he l ped begin to eat ; or i f th e viands , ,

a re too hot for your pa l ate tak e u p yo u r kni fe an d fork and

,

a p ear to begin T o wai t for others is no w not on ly o ld

.

fa s io ned but i l l bred

,
-
.

N ever offe r to pass on th e plate t o which y ou hav e b een

helped T his is a sti l l more vu l gar piece of po l iten ess and
.
,

be l ongs t o the manners of a hundred yea rs ago The lady of .

the house who sends your plate to y o u is the best j udge of

precedence at her o wn tab l e .

I n he l p ing soup fish or an y other dish remem b er t ha t to

, , ,

o verfill a pla t e is as bad as to suppl y i t too scantil y .

 E TI OUE T TE F OR L AD I ES . 93

S ilver fish-knives wi l l now alwa ys be met with a t the bes t

tab l es but where there are non e a piece of crust should be ,

taken in the left hand and the fork i n the right T here is
, .

no exception to this ru l e in eating fish .

W e presume i t is scarcely n ecessar y to rem ind our fair

reader that she is never under any circumstances to conve y
, ,

her knife to her mouth Peas are eaten with the fork tarts
.
,

c urry and puddings of all kinds with the spoon

,
.

A l ways he l p fish with a fish slice and tart and puddings -

,

with a spoon or if necessary a spoon and fork

, , , .

Asparagus must be he l ped with the asparagus tongs -

.

I n eating asparagus it is well to observe what others d o

, ,

and act accord ingl y Some very we l l bred peop l e eat it wi th

.
-

th e fingers ; others cut o ff the heads and convey them to th e ,

m out h upon the fork I t would be di fficu l t to say which is

.

the more correct .

I n eating stone fruit such as cherri es damsons & c th e

, , , .
,
sam e ru l e had better be observed S ome put the stones ou t .

from the mouth into a spoon an d s o convey them to the ,

p l ate O thers cover the lips with th e hand d rop them nu

.
,

seen in to the pa l m and so deposit them on th e side of th e

,

p l ate I n our own opinion the l ast is the better way as i t

.
, , .

e ffectual l y conceals the return of the stones which is certain l y ,

the point of highest importance O f one thing we may be .

sure an d that is that they must n ever be dropped from th e

, ,

mouth to the plate .

I n he l ping sauce always pour i t on the side of the plate

, .

I f the servants do not go round with the wine ( wh ich is by

far the best custom ) the gent l emen at a dinner tab l e shou l d
,
-

take upon themse l ves the o ffi ce of he l ing those ladies who

si t near th em Young ladies se l dom rink more than three
.

gl asses of wine at dinner ; but married l adies professional ,

ladies and those accustomed to societ y and habits of a filu

,
’

ence will hab tually tak e five or even six whether i n their
, ,

own homes o r at the tab l es of their friends .

The h abit of taking wine with each other has almost

wholly go ne out of fash ion A gentleman may ask the lad y
.

who m he conducted down to d inner ; or he may ask the

lad y of the house to take wine with him But even thes e .

l ast remnants of th e old custom are fas t fa l li ng into disuse .

Unless y ou are a total abstainer i t is extreme l y uncivil to ,

decl ine taking w i ne if y ou are invited to do so In accepting .

,
you have on l y to pour a litt l e fresh wine into y our g l as s loo k ,

at the person who invit e d y ou bow s l ightl y and ta k e a sip

, ,

fro m th e gl ass .
 E TI QUE TTE F OR L AD IE S
‘

34 .

I t is particularl y ill bred to empt y y our glass on th ese

-
00
casro ns .

C ertain wines are ta k en wi th c ertain dish es b y old estab ~ ,

-

lished custom — as sherry , or sautern e with soup and fish ; ,

h ock and claret with roas t m eat ; punch wi th turtle ; cham

p agne with whitebai t port with ven iso n ; port or bu rgund y , ,

with game sparkling win es between th e roast and th e con

fe ctio nery madeira with sweets port with chees e and for
d essert port t okay madeira sherry and clare t R ed wines
, , , , , .

shou l d never be iced even in summer C l are t and burgund y

, .

should alwa ys be s l ightl y warmed ; claret cu p a nd cham -

pagne cup should of course b e iced

~
.
, ,

I nstead of cool ing their wines in th e ice pail some hosts -

,

have of late y ears intr oduced clear ice upon the table bro k en ,

up in small lumps to be put inside the g l asses

, T his is an .

i nnovation that cannot be too strict ly reprehended or too soon

abolished M elting ice can but weaken the qualit y an d
.

flavour of the win e T hose wh o desire t o d rink wi ne a nd

.

wa ter can ask for ic ed water if they ch oose ; but i t savours

too much of econom y on the part of a h ost to insin uate the
ice inside the glass es of his gu es ts when the win e could be
more effectuall y iced outside the bottle .

A silver k nife and fork should b e placed t o each gu es t at

d essert .

I t is wise n ever to parta k e of any dish without k nowing of

what ingredients it is comp os ed You can alwa ys ask th e .

servant u ho hands i t to you and y ou thereby avoid all dan ,

ger of having to commit the impoliteness of leaving it, an d

showing that you do not approve of it .

Never speak while y ou have a nyt hing in y our mouth

'

B e carefu l never to taste soups or puddings till you are sur e

t he y are suffi ciently cool ; as b y disregarding this caution, ,

y ou may be com pe ll ed to swa llow what is dangerously h ot ,

or be driven to the unpardonab l e alternative of r e turn ing i t

to your plate .

W hen eating or drink ing avoid every k in d o f a u d ible tes ,

tim o ny to the facts .

Finger g l asses containing water slightl y warmed an d per

-
,

fumed are placed to each person at desse rt I n these you

, .

may dip th e tips of y our fingers wiping them after wa rds on ,

y our table napk i n If the finger g l a ss and doy l ey are plac ed

-
.
-

on your dessert plate you should immediate l y remove the

-
,

doyley to th e left of your plate and pla c e the finger glas s ,

-

u on it By these means y o u
. r i ght fo r the wine
g a s es
s
.
 £ 7 1 0 UE T TE FOR L ADIE S . 35
Be careful t o k now th e shapes of the various k in ds o f
wine glass es common ly i n use in order that y ou may never
-
,

ut forward on e for another High and narrow and very

proad and shal low glasses are used for champagn e ; large,
.
,

goblet-shaped glass es for burgund y and claret ; ordinary wine

g l ass es for sherry and madeira ; green g l asses for hock ; an d
somewhat large bel l shaped glasses for port
,
-
, .

Port , sherry and madeira are decanted

, R o cks a nd
, .

cham pagn es appear i n their native bottles C laret and bur .

gun d y are handed round i n a claret j ug

-
.

T he servants leave the room when the d essert is on the

table .

C o ffee and liqueurs should be handed roun d when the des

sert ha s been about a quarter of an hour on the table After .

t his the ladies general l y retire

, .

T he lad y of th e house sh ou l d never send awa y her plat e ,

o r appear to have don e eat ing till all h er guests have fin ,

ished .

If y ou should unfortunatel y overturn or brea k an y thing,

d o not apologi ze for it You can sho w y our regr e t in y our
.

face , but it i s not we l l -bred to put it int o words .

To abstain from tak ing the last piece on the dish or th e ,

last glass of win e in the decanter only because it is the last , ,

is high ly i l l bred I t imp l ies a fear on your part that th e

.

vacancy cann ot be supplied , and a lmost convey s an a ffront to

y ou r host .

T o those ladies who have h ouses an d servants at com mand ,

we have on e or two remark s to o ffer E ve ry housek eeper .

sh ould be acquainted w ith the routin e of a dinner and the

etiquette of a dinner tabl e N o lady should be utterly de
.

penden t o u the taste and j udgment of her cook T hough .

she need not knowhow to dress a d ish she should be able to ,

yudge of i t when served The mistress of a house in short

.
, ,

shou l d be to her cook what a publisher is t o his authors

that is t o say competent to form a j udgm ent upon the ir
,

works though himse l f incapable of writing even a maga zin e

,

article .

I f y ou wish to give a good dinner and do n ot k now in ,

what manner to set about it you wi l l do wisel y to order i t

,

from B irch K iihn or an y other fi rst rate rerla u ra fa rr B y

, ,
-
.

these means you e nsure the b est cookery and a faultless ca r te .

B ear in m ind that it is y our duty t o entertain your friends

111 the best manner that y our means permit T his is the leas t .

y ou can do to recompe nse them fo r the ex penditure of tim e

a nd m one y which the y incur in accepting y our invi tatio n .
26 E TI Q UE T TE FOR L AD IE S .

Toinvite a friend to d inner says B rilla t Savarin is , ,

to becom e responsible for his happiness so long as he is under

”
y our roof Again . He who receives friends at his tab l e ,

without having bestowed his personal supe rvision upon the

”
repast placed before them i s unworth y to have friends, .

A dinner t o be exc ellen t n eed not consist of a gr eat

, ,

variety of dishes : bu t every thing shou l d be of the best an d ,

the cookery shou l d be perfect T hat which should b e cool .

shou l d be cool as ice ; that which shou l d be hot sh ould be

smok ing ; the attendance shou l d be rapid and n oiseless the
g uests well as sorted the win es of the best qua l ity the hos t
attentive and courteous the room well l ighted and the time
punctual .

E very dinner sh ould begi n with soup be followed by fish , ,

and inc l ude some kind of game T he soup is to the din .

” “
n er we are to l d by Grisno d de la R egni ere
,
what th e ,
”
p ortico is to a bui l ding or the overture to an opera
, .

T o this aphorism we may be permitted to add that a Mass:

o f cognac or cu ra coa at the c l ose of the dinner is like the
e pilogue at the end of a comedy .

N ever reprove or give directions to your servants before

ests I f a dish is not p l aced precise l y where you wou l d
.

ave wished it to stand or the order of a course is reversed

, ,

l et the error p a ss unobserved by yours e l f and you ma y de ,

pend that it wi l l be unnoticed by others .

I f you are a m other you wi ll be wise never to let y our

,

children mak e their appearance at dessert when you entertain

friends at dinner C hi l dren are out of p l ace on these occa
.

sions Your guests only tolerate them through po l iten ess ;

.

th eir presence interrupts th e genial fl ow of after dinn er con -

versation and you m ay re l y upon it that w ith the exc eption ,

o f yourse l f and p erhaps y our husband there is not a person

, ,

at tab l e who does not wish them in the nursery .

The duties of hostess at a dinner party are not onerous ; -

but they demand tact and good breeding grace of bearing , ,

and se l f possession in no ordinary degree

-
She does n ot .

often carv e She has n o active duties to perfo rm ; but sh e

.

must negl ect nothing forget nothing put a ll her guests at

, ,

their ease encourage the timid draw out the si l ent and pay
, , ,

e very attention to the requirements of each and a ll

a roun ( pher No accident must rufii e her temper
ossible . No dis .

appointment m us t embarrass her She mus t see her old .

china brok en without a sigh and her best g l ass shattered with
,

a smile In short to quote the langua ge of a clever co n

.
,

tempo ra ry, she must have “ the genius o f tact to perceive, -

 E TJQUE T TE FOR L AD IE S . 2
7

and the genius of finesse to e x ecut e ; ease and fran k ness o i

m anner ; a kn owledge of the wor l d that n othing can surpris e
a cal mn e ss of temper that nothing can distur b ; and a k ind
ness of disposition that can never be exhausted .

X — THE BA L L -R OOM
. .

As the num b er of guests at a d 1nne r-pa1 t y regulated by is

the si z e of the table so should the num ber of invi tat i on s t o

,

a ba l l be limit ed b y the proportions of the ba ll room A .

prudent hostess wil l alwa ys invite a few more guests th an she

real ly desires t o enterta i n in th e certainty that there will be
,

some deserters when the appoin ted evening comes round ; bu t

she will at the same time remember that to overcrowd her
room is to Spoil the pleasure of those who love dancing and ,

that a party of this kin d when too numerously attended is as

great a fai l ure as one at which too few are present .

A room which 1 5 near l y square yet a l itt l e longer than it is

,

broad will be foun d the most favourab l e for a bal l

, I t ad .

m its of two quadri ll e pa rties or two round dances at th e

, ,

same time I n a perfect l y square room this arrangement is

.

not so practicable or pleasant A ve ry long and narrow room

.

is obviousl y of the worst shap e for the purpose of dancing ,

and i s fi t only for quadri l les and co untry dances .

T he top of the ba ll room is the part nearest the orchestra .

I n a pri vate room the top is where it wou l d be if the room

,

were a dining room I t is genera ll y at the fa i thest poin t from

.

the door D ancers shou l d be careful to ascertain the top of

.

th e room before taking their p l aces as the top coup l es always

,

lead the dances .

A good floor is of th e last importance in a ball room In -

.

a private house nothing can be better than a smooth well

, ,

stretched hol land with the ca l pet beneath

, .

A bundance of light and free venti l ation are indispensable

to the spii its an d comfort of the dance rs .

G ood music is as n ecessary to the prosperit y of a ball as

good wi ne to the exce ll ence of a dinner N o hostess shou l d .

tax her frien d s for this part of the e n tertainmen t I t i s the .

m os t inj udicious economy i maginab l e L adies who would .

prefer t o dance are tied to the pianoforte an d as few ama

teurs have been trained i n the art of play ing d ance music
with that strict attention to time and accent which is a bso
la t el y necessary to the co mfort of the dancers, a tot al and
38 E TI QUE TTE FOR L AD IE S .

general disconten t is sure t o result T o pla y d ance music .

thoroughl y well is a branch of the art which r equires con

s idera ble practice I t is as di fferent from every other k ind o f
.

p lay ing as whale fishing is from fly fishing T hose who giv e .

private balls will do we l l ever to bear this in m ind and t o ,

p rovide skilled musicians for the even ing F or a small party .

,

a piano and cornopean make a very p l easant combination .

Unless where severa l instruments are engaged we do not ,

recommend the introduction of the vio l in a l though in some

respects the finest of all solo instruments i t is apt to scund ,

thin and shri l l when employed 0 11 mere inexpressive dance

tunes and played by a mere dance player
, .

I nvitations to a b a ll should be issued in the name of the

la ly of the house and written on small note paper of the
,

be st uality E l e gant printed forms some of them printed

.
,
’
i n go ( 1 or silver are to be had at every s tation er s by those
,

who prefer them The paper ma y be gilt -edged but n ot

.
,

o lo ured T he sealing wa x used should be of some delicate

-

g
.

ue .

An invitation to a ball should be sent out at least ten da ys

b efore the evening appointed A fortnight three weeks and .
, ,

e ven a month may be a ll owed in the way of notice .

No t more than two or three days should be permitted t o

elapse before you reply to an invitation of this k ind The .

rep l y shou l d al ways be addressed to the lady of th e house an d ,

should be couched in the same person as the i nvitation The .

fo l lowing are the forms general l y in use

Mrs Mo l y ne ux requests
. ho no ur o f Capt i n Ha mil to n s compan y
the a
'

a t a n e en ngv i p arty , o n M o nd a y M arch th n th i n t nt

, e s a .

D a ncing w i ll beg in N inc

’
a t o clock.
T hursday , M arch rst.

Captai n Ham i lt n
o ha s much ple a su re in a ccepti ng M rs M o y n eux l '

lt
.

po i e i nvua tio n fo r M o nday e veni ng M arch the n th i nst a nt

,
.

Fri da y, M arch and .

The old form of "

presenting compliments is n ow out of
fashion .

lad y wh o gives a ba
T he ”
ll should
endeavour to secure an
equal number of d ancers of both sexes M an y private par .
-

ties are spoi l ed b y the preponderance of young ladies some ,

c whom never get partners at al l unless th ey dance with each

f
0 her .
,

ll
It wi be un de rst o od that we use the wo rd ba to ll s i gnify a prip
Va te party , whe re the re is da ncing, as we as a pub i c ba ll l ll .
30 E n o(115 TTE FOR L AD IE S .

Nev er forget a ball -room engagement do so is to . To

c ommi t an unpardonable o ffence against goo d breeding .

O n entering the ball -room the visitor should at once se e k

,

th e lady of the house and pay her respects t o her Hav in g

,
.

don e this she ma y exchange salutations with such fri ends

,

a nd acqua intances as may b e in the room .

No lady shou l d accept an invitati on to dance from a gentle

man to whom she has not been introduced I n cas e an y .

gentleman shou l d commit th e error of so inviting her she ,

should not excuse herse l f on th e plea of a previ ous engage

ment or of fatigu e as to do so wou l d impl y that she did n ot
, ,

h erse l f attach due importance to the necessary ceremon y of

i ntroduction Her best rep l y would be to the e ffect that she
.

would have much pleasure i n accepting his invitation if he ,

wou l d procure an introduction to her This observation m ay .

be taken as app l ying on l y to public balls At a private part y .

the host and hostess are s uffi cient guarantees for the respect
ability of their guests ; and although a gent l eman woul d
show a s ingular want of kn owledge of the l aws of society in
acting as we h ave supposed the l ady who should rep l y to
,

h im as i f he were merely an impertinent stranger in a public

assembl y-room would be imp l ying a n a ff ron t t o her enter
ta iners The mere fact of being assembled together under
.

the roof of a m utua l friend is i n itself a kind of general

introduction of the guests to each oth er .

An introduction given for the m ere purpose of enabling a

lady and gentl e man to go through a dance toge ther does n ot
c onstitute an acquaintanceship The lad y is at liberty t o
.

pass the gentleman i n the park the -next day without recog
ni tio n .

I t is n ot necessary that a lady should b e acquainted with

the slaps in order to wal k gracefu ll y an d easil y through a
, .

quadri ll e An easy carriage and a knowledge of th e figure

.

i s a ll that is requisite A round dance however shou l d on

.
, ,

no account be attempted without a thorough knowledge o f

the steps and some previous practice
, .

No person who has not a good ear for time and tu ne n eed
ho e to dance well .

0 lady should accept refreshm ents from a stranger at a

public ba l l for she would thereb y la y herself under a peen

nia ry ob l igation Fo r these she must rel y on her father,
.

brothers or old friends

, .

G ood taste forbids that a lady should dance too frequentl y

with the same partner at eith er a pu b lic or pri vate ball .
 E TI Q UE TTE FOR L AD IE S .
31

Engaged persons should be careful not to commit this con

spicuo us solecism .
0

E ngagements for one danc e should not be made wh i le the

present dance is y et i n progress .
0

Never attempt to tak e a place i n a dance wh i ch has be en

pre vi ously engaged .

W ithdraw from a private ball room as quietly as possibl e -

,

so that your departure may n ot be observed by others an d ,

cause the party to break up If you meet the lady of the

.

house on your way out take your leave of her in such a m an

,

n er that her other guests may no t suppose y ou are do ing

so but do not seek he r out for that purpose .

Never be seen without g l oves in a ball room though i t -

,

were for only a few m oments L adies who dance much and.

are particu l ar l y sozgvzé in matters re l ating to the toi l ette take

'

a s econd pai r of g l oves to rep l ace the first when soiled .

A thoughtful hostess wi ll n ever introduce a bad dancer to

a go od one because she has no right to punish one friend i n
,

order to oblige another .

I t is not customary for married p ersons to d anc e t ogether

i n so ciety fi“

X L— Sr AYI NG AT A FR I END
’
s HOU SE z— B REA K FA ST,
L U NC HEO N, & c .

A vi sitor is bound by the laws of social intercourse to con

form in a ll respects to the habits of the house I n order t o .

do this e ff ectua ll y she should inquire or cause her personal

, ,

servant to inquire what those habits are T o keep y our

, .

friend s breakfast on the tab l e ti ll a late hour t o de l ay the

’

dinner by want of punctua l ity ; to accep t other invitations ,

and treat his house as if i t were m erely an hotel to be slept

in or to keep the family up ti l l unwonted hours are a l ike ,

evidences of a want of good fee l ing a nd good breeding .

At breakfast and lunc h abso l ute punctua l ity is not impera

tive ; but a visitor should avoid being always the last to app ear
at table .

No order of preced ence is observed at either break fast or

luncheon Persons take their seat s as they come in and
.
,

having ex changed their morning salutations , begin to eat

without waiting for the rest of the part y .

us
a m o re detail e d acco unt o f the l aws a nd business
Fo r qrthe ball.
m the Chapt er entit led Thg Ball-room Gui de "
.
32 E TI Q UE TTE FOR L AD IE S .

If let t ers are delivered to y ou atb reakfast or luncheo n yo u ,

may read them b y as king permission fro m the la d y who pre

sides a t the urn .

Always hold y ourself at th e disposal o f those in wh ose

h ouse y u are isi t ing I f the y p opose to ride drive wa lk
o V
.
r
, , ,

or lne rW ISC C CLIP) he clay you may tak e it for granted

u Q ’ t ,

that these plans are made with reference to your enj oyment .

You should therefore receive t hem w ith cheerfulness enter

, , ,

into them with alacrit y and do y our best to seem pleased , ,

and be pleased by the e ffor ts which y our friends mak e to

,

entertain you .

You sho uld n ever tak e a boo k from the library to y our o wn
room without requesting permission to borrow it When i t .

is lent y ou should take every care that i t sustains n o inj ury

,

whi l e in your possess ion and should cover it if necessa ry , , .

A guest should end eavour t o amuse herself as much as

possib l e and not be continual l y dependent on her hosts for
,

entertainment She should remember that however welcome

.
,

s he may be she is not always wanted

, .

“ staying v is itors as the y are called

T hose who receive , ,

shou l d remember that the t ruest hospi ta l it y is that whic h

places the visitor most at her ease and a ff ords her the greates t ,

O pportunity for enj o ym ent T hey sho uld also remember t ha t .

di fferen t persons have di fferent ideas on the subj ect of enj oy

i e nt and that the surest way of making a gues t happy is to

gad out what gives her pleasure ; not t o impose that upon
,

h er which is p l easure to themselves .

A visitor should avoid gi ving unnecessary trouble to the

se rv ants of the h ous e an d should b e liberal to them on l eav
,

i ng .
T hesignal for retiring to rest is generall y given b y th e
appearance of the servant with win e water and biscuits , , ,

where a late dinner hour is observed and suppe rs are n ot th e

-

custom T his is the las t refreshment of the evening and the

.
,

visitor wi ll do we ll to rise and wish good n ight shortl y aft er -

it has b een parta k en of b y the fami l y .

X II — GENER AL Hm r s
. .

D o not frequentl y rep eat the nam e of the p erson with

whom y ou are convers ing I t impli es either the e xtrem e of .

lza u teu r or fam il iarit y We have already caution ed y ou

“

aga i nst the repeti t i on pf tit l es Defer ence can al way s be .

 E TI QUE T TE FOR L AD IE S .
33
b e tt er ex pressed in the voice manner and coun t e nanc e t h an
, ,
in an y forms of words .

Never spea k of absent persons b y only their ch ristian o r

su rnames ; bu t alwa y s a s M r or Mrs Ab ov e
. .

a ll n ever nam e anybod y b y the first letter of his name

, .

M arried people are sometimes guilt y of this flagr ant o ffenc e

against taste .

No lady should permi t an y gentleman who is not a n ea r

relative or very old friend of her famil y to defray the cos t
, ,

of her entrance fee to any theatre or exhibition or to pa y fo r ,

her refreshments or vehicles when she happens to be o ut '

under his protection .

I f a person of greater age or higher ran k than y ourself

desires y ou to step first into a carriage or through a door it , ,

is more polite to bow and obey than to decline .

C ompliance with an d deference to the wishes of others is

, ,

th e fi nest breeding .

When y ou ca nnot agree with the propositions advanced in

general conversation be silent If pressed for y our opinion
, .
,
give it with modest y Never defend y our own vi ews too
.

warml y W hen y ou find others remain unconvinced, drop

.

the subj ect or lead to some other topic

, .

L ook at those who address y ou .

N ever boast of y our birth y our mone y y our gran d friend s

, , ,

o r anything that is y ours I f y ou have travelled do no t

.
,

introduce that information into your conversation at every

opportuni ty Any on e can travel with money and leisure
. .

T he real distinction is to co m e hom e with enlarged views,

improved tastes and a mind free from prej udice
, .

I f y ou present a book to a friend do not write his or her ,

name in i t unless request ed

, You have n o right to presum e
.

that it will be rendered any the more valuable fo r that addi

tion ; an d y ou ought not t o conclude beforehand t hat y o ur
gift will be accepted .

Never undervalue the gi ft which y ou are yourself o ffering

y ou hav e no business to offer it if it is valu ele ss Neither
'

sa y that you do n ot want it yourself or tha t y ou should thro w ,

i t away if it were not accepted & c &c Such apologie s , .

, .

wou l d be insults if true and mean nothing if false , .

No compliment that bears insincerit y o n the face of i t is a

co mpliment at a l l .

Unmarried ladies ma y not accept presents from gentlem en

who are neither re l ated nor engaged to them Presents mad e .

by a ma rried lad y to a gentleman can onl y be o ffer ed in the

jo i nt names o f her husb and and h ersel f .
34 E TJQUE T TE FOR L ADI ES .

M arried l adies ma y occasionall y accept presen ts fro m

gentlemen who visi t frequen tly at their h ous es and who d e ,

s ire to show their sense of the hosp itality which the y receiv e
. here .

T here is an art and propriety i n the gi ving of pres e nts

which i t requires a n atural de l icacy of disposition rightly t o
apprehend You must not give too rich a gi ft no r too p oor
.
,

a gift You must n ot give to one much wea l thier than your
.

se l f ; a nd you must beware ho w you give to one much poorer ,

lest y o u o ffend her pride You must never make a presen t .

with an y ex pectation of a return ; and y ou m ust n ot be too

e ager to ma ke a return yo urself when you accept one A , .

gift must not be ostentati ous but i t should be worth o ffering , .

O n the other h a nd mere c ostliness does not cons ti tute the

,

soul of a present .

A gift sho uld be precious for someth ing better than its
rice It ma y have been brought b y the giver from som e
.

ar or fa mo us place ; it may be un iqu e in i ts workmanship ;

i t may be valuable onl y from associatio n w ith some great man
o r st range event A utographic papers foreign curiositi es
.
, ,

a nd the l ike are elegant gifts , An author may o ffer his .

book or a painter a sketch with grace and propriety O ffer

, , .

ings o f flowers and game are unexceptionab l e and may be ,

m ade even to those whose position is su perior to that of the

g i ver .

N ever refuse a presen t unless under very exceptional c ir

cum stances However humb l e the giver and however poor
.
,

the gift you shou l d a ppreciate the goodwi l l and inten tion
, ,

and accept i t with k in d ness and thanks Never say I fear .

”
I rob you or I am reall y ashamed to tak e it &c & c
, , .
, .

.
Such deprecatory phrases imp l y that y ou thin k the bestower
of the gift cannot spare or a fford i t .

Acknow l e dge the receipt of a present without delay .

G ive a foreigner his nam e in fu ll as M onsie ur de V ign y ,

never as Il/ o m zcu r on l y I n speaking of hi m give h im his

'

’
.
,

title if he has one Foreign n ob l emen are addr essed viva

, .

w ee a s M onsieur I n speaking of a foreign n ob l eman b efore

.

his face sa y M ons ieur le Comte or M onsieur le M arquis

, In , .

his absence sa y M onsieur le C omte de V ign y

, .

C onverse wit h a foreigner i n his own l anguage If not .

com etent to do so apologiz e, an d b eg permission to speak

Engp
,

ish .

T o get in an d out of a ca rr i a ge gracefull y is a simple but

i mportan t accomp l ishm ent I f there i s bu t one step and .
,

y o u are oi n to take
g g y ou r seat faci n the herses
g ,p ut ou
y ;
 E TI QUE TYE FOR L AD I E S .
35

left foot on the step and enter the carriag e with your righ t
, ,

in such a manner as to drop at once into your s eat I f y ou .

a re about to sit wi th y our bac k to the horses revers e the ,

proc ess As you step into the carriage b e carefu l to keep

.
,

y o ur bac k towards the seat y ou are a b out to occupy so as ,

to avoid the awk wardness of turning when y ou are once

M embers of o ne famil y should not convers e togeth er in

so ci e t y .
 fittquzitz for &w u
rmen .

L — I NT R OD U CTIONS .

To in tr oduce p ersons who are mutu all y un k nown is t o under

tak e a serious responsibilit y and to cert ify to each the re
,

spectability of the other Never un dertake this respons i b il i ty

.

without in th e first place ask ing y ourse l f whether the persons

are likely to be agreeable to each other n or i n the second ,

pla ce w ithout ascertaining whether i t will be acceptable to

,

both pa rties to become acquainted .

Alwa ys introduce the gen tleman to the lady— never the

lad y to the gentleman T he chiv al ry o f etiquette assumes
.

that the lad y is invariably the superior in right of her se x and ,

that the gentleman i s honoured in the introduction T his .

rule is to b e observed even when the social ran k of the g en tle

m an is higher than that o f the lad y .

W here the se x es are the same, alwa ys presen t the inferior

to the superior .

Never present a gen tlem an t o a lad y W i thou t fi rst ask ing

her permiss ion to do so .

W hen y ou are in troduced to a lad y n ever o ffer y our hand

, .

When i ntr oduc ed p ersons l imit their recognition of each

,

other to a bow C u the C ontinent ladies nev er shake hands

.
,

with gentlemen unless und er circumstances of great intimacy .

Never introduce morning visitors who happen to encounter

each other in y our ro oms unless the y are persons whom y ou
,

have already obtained p ermissi on to m ake known to each

other V isitors th us cas ually meeting in the house of a friend
.

should converse with ease and fre edom as i f they were a c

,

qua inted . T hat the y are both fri ends of the hostess is a
su ffici en t guarantee of their respec tabilit y T o be silent and
.

stiff on such an occ asio n would sh ow much ignorance and ill

breeding .
38 E TI Q UE T TE FOR GEN TL E ME N .

c ommits this error h e m ust remem b er that she is n o t bo und

,

to see, or return his salutation , .

II . or I NTR OD U CT ION .

Do not lightl y give or promise letters of in t ro duct ion .

Alway s remember that when you give a l etter of introduction

you lay you rse lf under an obligation to the frien d to whom it
1 5 addressed If he lives in a great cit y such as Paris or
.
,

L o ndon you i n a me as ure compe l hi m t o undergo the penalt y

,

of escorting the stranger t o some of those places of publ ic en

terta inm e nt in which the capital abounds I n an y case y ou .
,

p ut him t o the expense of inviting the stranger to his table .

W e cannot be too cautious how we tax the time and purse of

a friend or weigh too serious l y the question of mutua l a d van
,

t age in th e introduction A l ways ask yourself “m o ther the

.

p erson in tr o d uced wi ll be an acceptab l e acquaintance to the

one to whom y ou present him and whether the p l easure of
knowing him wil l com pensate for the time or money wh ich i t
costs to entertain him If the stranger is in an y way unsuit.

a b l e in habits or temperam en t, y ou inflict an annoyance on

y our friend ins tead of a p l eas ure I n questions of introduction .

never oblige on e friend to the discomfort of another .

T hos e to whom letters of introduction h ave been gi ven

shou l d send them to the person to whom they are addressed ,
l

and enc l ose a card Never de l iver a letter of introduction in

.

person I t p l aces y ou in the most und ignified position imagi n

.

a ble a nd compels you to wait while i t is be ing read

, like a ,

footman who has been told to wai t for an answe r T here i s .

also an other reason why y ou shou l d n ot be y ourself the bearer

o f your introduction i e you com pel the other p erson to te
. .
,

ceive you whether he ch ooses or not

, I t may be that he is .

su ffi cient l y i ll bred to tak e n o n otic e of the l etter when sent

-
,

an d in such cas e i i you presented yourse l f wi th i t he wou l d

'

, ,

most probab l y receive y ou wi th rudeness I t is a t a ll e vents .

, ,

m ore po l it e on y our part to gi ve h im the option and perhaps ,

m ore p l easant I f the receiver of the l etter be a real l y we ll

.

bred p erson h e will ca l l upon y ou or leave his c ard th e next

,

da y an d you shou l d re turn h is att en ti ons within the week

, .

I f on the other h and a stranger sends y o r a l etter of intro

, ,
.

d uction and his card y ou are bound by the laws of po l iteness

,

an d hospitalit y not only to call upon him the next day but
, ,

to follo w up tha t att ention with othe rs I f y o u are in a .

 5 7 m UE T TE FOR GEN TLEMEN .
3g

po s itio n t od o so th e m ost correct proceeding i s to i nvite him

,

to dine with y ou Shou l d thi s n ot be within y our p ower

.
,

y ou have probabl y the entree to some private co ll ections club ,

~

h ouses theatres or reading rooms and could devote a fe w

, ,
-
,
“

hours to showing him these places If y ou are but a clerk in .

a ban k remember that only to go over the B an k of Eng l an d

,

would b e interesting to a foreigner or provincial visitor In .

sh ort etiquette demands that y ou sha l l exert yourself to show

,

k indness to th e stranger if on l y out of compliment to the ,

friend who intr od uced him to you .

I f you invite him to dine with you i t is a be tter compli ,

m ent to ask som e others to meet him than to dine with him ,

Y ou are th ereb y giving him an oppo rtunity of

making other acquaintances and are assisting your friend in ,

sti ll further promoting the purpose for which he gave him t he .

i ntroduction to y ourself .

B e careful at the sam e time onl y to as k such persons as he

will feel are at l east h is own social equa l s .

A letter of introduction shou l d be gi ven unsealed not alon e ,

because your friend may wi sh to k no w what you h ave said of

h im but a l so as a guarantee of your own good faith
, As you .

should never give such a l etter unless you can speak high l y of
th e bearer this rule of etiquett e is easy to observe By re
, .

nesting your friend to fasten the envelope before forw arding

t e letter t o its destination y ou tacitl y give him permissio n to ,

i nspect its contents .

L e t your note paper be of the best qual ity an d the proper

Albert or Queen s s iz e is the best for these pu rposes
’
si z e
. .

I t has been we ll said that “ attention t o the punct ilios of

p ol iteness is a proof at once of self respect and of respect for -
,
”
y our friend T hough irksom e at first these trifies soon
.
,

cease to be m atters for m emory an d become th ings of m ere ,

habit T o the th orough l y wel l bred they are a second nature

.
-
, .

L e t n o on e n eglect the m who is desirous of pleasing i n

societ y and above al l let n o on e deem them unworthy of a
, ,

wise man s attention Th e y are precisely the trifles which do

’
.

most to mak e social intercourse agr eeable and a knowledge ,

o f which distin g uishes the gentleman from the boor .

I II — V ISITI NG — MOR NING CA L LS — C A R DS

'

. . . ,

A morning visi t should b e paid between th e hours of mid

i nd four pm . .
,
i n winter, and two and five in summ er . By
40 E TJQUE T TE F OR GEN TL E M E M

obse rving this rule y ou avoid intr uding before the lunch eon in
removed and l eave in su fii cient time to a l low the lad y of the
,

h o use an h our or two of leisure for her dinner toilette .

B e careful a l ways to avoid l unch eon h ours when y ou pa y

m orning vi sits S ome l adies dine wi th their ch ildren at h alf
.

as t on e and are c ons equentl y unprepared for the early t e

p ,

ce ptio n of v is itors W hen you have once ascertained this to

.

be the case be careful n ever again to i n tru d e at the sam e

,

h our .

A good m em ory for these trifles is on e of the h all mar ks o f -

g oo d bree d ing .

V isi ts of ceremon y should be short I f even the conversa .

tion shoul d have becom e animated beware of letting your call ,

exceed half a n hour s length I t is a l ways better to let y our

- -
’
.

fri ends regr et than desire your withdrawal .

O n returning visits of ceremony you ma y with out im polite ,

ness l eave your card at the door without going in

, D o n ot .

fai l h owever to inquire if the fami l y be we ll

, , .

S hould th ere be daughters or sister res id ing with the lad y s

upon whom you ca ll you may turn down a corner of y our

,

card to sign ify that th e visit is paid to all

, I t is in be tter .

taste however to leave ca rds for each

, , .

Unless when retu rning thank s for kind inquiries or an ,

r ouncing your arr ival in or departure from town i t is not, , ,

;o nsid e red respect ful to send round cards by a se rvan t .

L eave taking cards have P P C pou r pre na re co ngc ) writ ’ "

-
. . .

ten in the corn er S om e use P D A ( pou r dir e a dieu )

. . . . .

I t is n ot the fashion on the C ontinent for gen tlem en to

115 1 1: A/ Ottrie ur to thei r cards j u les Aclza m or Pao lo B ani,
’
.
,

looks more simple and el egant than if prec ed ed b y Al wm eu r

’

o r M o nsieu r [e Cowle S om e E ng l ish gent l emen hav e

.

adopted thi s good custom , an d it would be well if i t b ecam e

general .

Autographic facsimiles for visiting cards are a fiecta tio ns in

'

any pe rsons but th ose who are personal l y remarkab l e for talent
and whose autographs or facsimi l es of them would be pri z ed
, ,

as curiosities A card b earing the autographic signature of

.

C har l es D ick ens or G eorge C ruikshank though on l y a litho ,

graphic facsimi l e wou l d have a certain interes t whereas the

,

signature of J ohn S mith wou l d be not only v alueless but ,

would mak e the owner ridiculous .

The visiting cards of gen tlemen are half the si ze of th ose

used b y ladi es .

V i si ts of condolence are pa id withi n the wee k after the

event whi ch occasions them Personal visits of this k i nd are
.
 E TI Q UE T TE FOR GE N TL E /WE AK 4!

made by relations and very intimate friends onl y Acquain t .

auces should leave cards with narrow m ourn ing bord ers .

O n the first occas ion when you are receiv ed by the famil y
after th e death of one of i ts members i t is etiquette to wear ,

slight mourn ing .

When a gentleman mak es a m orning call h e should n ever ,

l eave his hat or riding-whip in the ball but shou l d take both ,

in to the room T o d o other wise would be to mak e himself

.

too much at home T he hat however must never be laid on

.
, ,

a table piano or any a tic l e of furniture ; i t should be held

.
, ,
r

gracefu ll y in the hand I f y ou are compe l led to la y it aside,

.

put it on the floo r .

Umbre l las should invariably be le ft in the hall .

N ever take favouri te d ogs into a drawing room wh en y ou -

make a morning cal l T heir feet m ay be dusty or they ma y

.
,

bark at th e sight of strangers or being of too friend l y a dis , ,

p osition may take the

, liberty of l ying on a lady s gow n or
’
,

j umping on the sofas and easy chairs \Vh ere your friend has .

a favourite cat a l ready established before the fire a battle ,

may ensue and one or other of the pets be seri ous l y hu rt

, .

B esides many persons have a constitutional antipathy to dogs

, ,

and others n ever allow their own to be seen in the sitting

rooms Fo r a l l or an y of th ese reason s a visitor has no righ t
.
,

to in flict upon his friend the societ y of his dog as well as of

himself .

I f when y ou call upon a lady y ou m eet a lad y visitor in

, ,

her drawing room y ou should ri se when that lady takes her

-
,

leave and escort her to her carriage taking care however to

, , , ,

retu rn again to th e drawing room though i t be only for a fe w -

,

minutes before tak ing your own l eave No t to do this would

, .

give you the appearance of accompanying the l ady visitor or

m ight at a l l events look as if the society of your hostess were
, ,

insu fficient to entertain y ou when her fn e nd had departed

'

I f other visitors are ann ounced and you have a l rea dy re ,

m ain ed as long as courtesy requires wait ti ll the y are seated , ,

and then rise from your chair take leave of your hostess and , ,

bow po l itely to the newly arrived guests You wil l perhaps .

, ,

be urged to remain but having once risen i t is a l ways best to

, , ,

go T here is a l wa y s a certain air of gri m /zen ? in resuming

.

y our seat and repeating the cerem ony of leave taking -

.

If you have occas ion to look at your watch during a call ,

ask permission to do so, and a po logise for it on the plea of

o ther appointm ents .
 IV .
—
C O NVER SAT1 0 N.

Le t y our conversation b e adapted as s k ilfull y as may b e to

y our company Some men make a poin t of ta l k ing common
.

p l aces to a ll l adies a l ik e as if a woman cou l d only be a trifler

,
.

O th e rs on th e contrary seem to forget in what respects the

, ,

education of a lady di ffers from that of a gent l eman and com ,

m it the opposite error of conversing on topics with which

l a dies are se l dom acquainted A woman of sense has as much
.

right to be annoyed by the on e as a l ady of ordinary educa ,

tion by the other You cannot pay a finer comp l iment to a

.

woman of refinemen t and espr it than by l eading the conversa

tion into such a channel as ma y mark y our appreciation of her
sup erior a tta inm
I n ta l king with l adies of ordinary education avoid pol itical , ,

scientific or commercia l topics and choose only such subj ects

, ,

a s are l ik e l y to be of interest to them .

R emember that peop l e take more interest in thei r own

a ffairs than in anyth ing e l se which you can name If you wish .

y our conversati on to be thorough l y a greeab l e l ead a mother ,

to ta l k of her children a young l ady of her last ball an a utho r

, ,
.

of his fo rthcom ing book or an artist of his exhibiti on p icture

,
.

Having furnished th e topic y ou need on l y l isten ; and y ou

,

are sure to be thought n ot on ly agreeable but thorough ly sen ,

sib l e a nd we ll informed
-
.

B e carefu l however on th e other hand no t alwa y s to mak e

, , ,

a p oin t of ta l king to p ersons upon genera l matters re l ating to

thei r professions T o show an interest i n their immediate
.

concerns is flattering ; but to converse with them too much

about their own arts looks as if you thought them i gnoran t of
o ther top ics .

D o not use a classical quotation in th e presence of ladies

without apo l ogising for or trans l ating it , E ven this shou l d .

o n l y be don e when no other phrase would o apt l y expres s s

y our mean ing W hether in the presence of l adies or gent l e

.

men much disp l ay of l earning is pe dantic a nd out of p l ace

, .

T here is a certain disti nct but subdued tone of voice which

i s peculiar to on l y we ll bred persons A l oud voice is both
-
.

d isagreeable and vu l gar I t is better to err b y the use o f too

.

lo w than too loud a ton e .

“
R emember that all slang is vulgar I t has b ecom e of .

late unfortun ate l y preval ent and we have k nown even l adies
,

pride themselves on the sauc y d ugue with which they adop t

’

certain Am ericanisms and other cant phr as es of the day

, .
 2 77 0 UE TTE FOR GENTL E ME N .
43

Such hab its cannot b e too severel y repreh ended T he y lowe r .

the ton e of society an d the standar d of though t I t is a great

'

. .

m istake to suppose that slang is in an y way a substitute for

wi t.

T he use of proverbs is equall y vulgar in conversation an d

puns unless they rise to the rank of witticisms are to be
, ,

scrupulous ly avoided T here is no greater nuisance in society

.

than a du ll and persevering punster .

L ong arguments i n general company h owever entertaining ,

to th e disputants are tiresom e to the l ast degree to a l l others

, .

You shou l d a l ways endeavour to prevent the conversati on fro m

dwel l ing too long upon o ne topic .

R eligion is a topic which should n ever be introduced in

societ y .I t is th e on e subj ect on which persons are most
likely to di ffer and least ab l e to preserve temper
, .

Never interrupt a p erson who is speaking I t has been .

“
aptl y said that if you interrupt a speaker in th e m id d l e of
his sentence y ou act almost as rude l y as if when wa l king
, ,

with a companion you were to thrust y ourse l f before him

, ,
”
and stop his progress .

T o l i sten we ll is almost as great an art as t o tal k wel l

, .

I t is not enough o nly to listen You must endeavour to .

seem interested in the conversation of others .

I t is considered extremely i ll bred when two persons whis -

p er in soc iet y or converse in a language with which a l l pre

,

sent are n ot familiar I f y ou h ave private m atters to discuss

.
,

y ou shou l d appoint a proper tim e and place to do so with ,

out paying others the ill compliment o f e xc l uding them fro m

your conversation .

I f a foreigner be one of th e guests at a sma l l part y an d ,

d oes not understand E ngl ish suf ficient l y t o fol l ow what is

said goo d breeding demands that conversation shal l be car
,
-

ried on in h is own langu age I f at a d inner party the sam e

.
-
,

rule app l ies to those at his end of the table .

If upon the entrance of a visitor you carry on the thread of

a prev ious conversation you shou l d brie fly recapitu l ate to
,

him what has been said before he arrived .

D o not be a lway s witt y even though y ou should be so ,

happil y gifted as t o need the caution T o outshin e others .

on every occasion is the surest road to unpopu l arit y .

Alwa ys look but never stare at thos e with whom y ou con

, ,

verse .

I n order to meet the general n eeds of conversation in

societ y i t is neces sary that a man should be well acquaint ed
,
44 E TI Q UE TTE FOR GE N TL EME N .

wi th th e curren t ne ws an d historical e ven ts of at leas t the

las t few years .

N ever talk upon subj ec ts of which you k now n othing nu ,

less it be for the purpose of acquiring inform ation M an y .

y oung men imagine that be cause they frequent exhibitions

and operas they are qualified judges of a rt N o mistak e i s .

more egregious or unive rs al .

T hose who introd uce anecdotes into their con versation are
“
warn ed that these shoul d inva ri ab l y be sh ort witt y elo -
, ,
~
”
quent n ew and not far fetched
, ,
-
.

S candal is th e least excusable of all conversational vulgari

t ies .

I n conversing with a m an of rank d o n ot too frequen tl y ,

give him his t it l e O n l y a servan t interlards every sentenc e

.

“ ” ”
with my L ord or my L ady
, I t is however well to .
, ,

show that you remember his station by n ow and then intro

d ucing som e such phrase as I thi nk I have already men
tio ned to y our L ordship — o r I be l ieve your G race was ,

observing I n general however you should address a , ,

nob l eman as you would any o ther gentleman T he Prince of .

”
W ales himse l f is only addressed as Sir, in conversation ,
”
and the Quee n as M adam .

V — NOTES
. or I NVIT A TION, &c.

No t es of invitation and acceptance are written in the third

p erson and the simplest styl e The o l d fashioned preliminary .
-

“ ”
of presenting comp l iments is discontinued b y the most
elegant letter-writers .

All notes of invitation are now i ssued in th e name of the

mistr ess of the house only as follows ,

M rs No rman
. requests the h onour o f Sir Ge o rge and L”ady Thur
lo w s co mpany at a n e vening party o n Mo nd y 4 th o f June
’

, a , 1 .

O thers prefer th e subj oined form whi ch is purch aseabl e ,

ready p rinted upon either cards or note pap er, w ith blan ks -

fo r names or dates
M rs No rman .
,
At ho m e ,
Monday eveni ng June 1 4 th inst ” , .

“
An At home is h owever consider ed som ewha t less
, ,

stat ely than an evening part y and partakes more of the cha ,
u cter of a cafzrw sa zzone
'
'

.
46 E TJQUE TTE FOR GE N TLE ME IV .

whom y ou appreciate and with whom y ou are on friendl y ,

terms ma y end with

, I am my dear Sir y ours v ery fai th , ,
” “ ”
ful l y or y ours very sincerely
, .

To be pro mpt i n reply ing to a let t er is t o be poli te .

VL — T HE P R O M ENA DE .

A well bred man must entertain n o respect for th e brim

- of
”
his hat A b ow . says L a Fontaine is a note dra wn at
, ,
”
sight . You are bound to ac k nowl edge it immed iatel y an d ,

to the ful l amount T he two m ost e l egant men of their day

.
,

C harles the Second an d G eo rge the Fourth n ever failed to ,

tak e o ff their hats to the meanest of their subj ects Always .

bear this example in m ind ; and remember that to nod or ,

m erely to touch the brim of th e hat is far from cou rteous , .

T rue politenes s demands that th e hat sho uld be q uite lifted

fr om th e head .

O n meet ing friends with whom y ou are l ik ely to shak e

hands remove your hat wi th the left hand i n order to leave
,

the right hand free .

I f you meet a l ady in the street whom y ou are suffi cientl y

intimate to address do n ot stop her but turn round an d wa l k
, ,

beside her i n whichever direction she is going When you .

have said a ll that you wish to say you can take your leave , .

I f you meet a lady with whom you are not particu l arly well
a cquainted wait for her recogni tion before you ventur e to bo w
,

to her .

I n bowing to a lady whom y ou are not going to address ,

lift your hat with that hand which is farthest from her Fo r .

instan ce if you p ass her on the righ t side use y our left hand ;
, ,

if on the left use your right , .

I f you are on horseback an d wish to converse with a lad y

who is on foot you must dismount and l ead your horse so as
, ,

no t to give her the fatigue of looking u p to your level N either .

shou l d you subj ect her to the impropri ety of carrying on a

c onversation in a ton e necessari l y l ouder than is sanctioned in

public by the l aws of good breeding .

W hen you meet friends or acquaintances in the streets th e ,

e xh ibitions or any public plac es take care not to pron ounc e

, ,

their n ames so loud ly as to attrac t the attention of the passers

by . Never ca ll across the str eet and n ever carry o n a d ia
logue in a publi c vehi cl e unl ess your in t erl ocu t o r occu pies
,

the seat b esid e o ur own

y .
 E TI QUE T Z E FOR GE N TL E/VEIN .
47

In walk ing with a lady tak e charge of an y small p arcel,

,

p araso l or book,
with which sh e may be encumbered .

If you so far forget what is elegant as to smoke in the street,

a t l east never omit to fling awa y y our cigar if y ou s pea k to a
iady .

V II — D a .
~
a ss .

A great French writer has said , wi th as much grace as

hilo so phy , that the art is t and man of letters n eeds only a
l ack coat and th e absenc e of all pretension to place him o n
the level of the best society I t must be observed however .
, ,

that this remark app l ies only to the intellectual wor k ers who , ,

i f they do occasiona lly commit a minor solecism i n dress or

manners are forgiven on accoun t of their fam e and talents
, .

O ther individuals are compe ll ed to study what we have e l se .

“ ”
where called the by l aws of society , and i t wou l d be we ll
-

i f artists and men of l etters would more frequent ly do the

same I t is not enough that a man should be clever or we l l
.
,

educated or we l l born to take his place in society he mus t

,

be acquainted with a ll that this li ttle b o ok proposes to teach .

He must above al l else k now how to enter th e room how to

, , ,

bow and how to dress Of these three ind ispensable qua lifi
,
.

cations , the m ost import ant because the most observed , is the ,

latter .

A gentleman should alwa ys b e so well dressed that his

d ress shall never be observed at all D oes this sound like a n .

enigma ? I t is not meant fo r one I t onl y implies that perfec t

‘

simplicit y is perfect elegance and that the true test of taste in ,

the toil ette of a gent l eman is i ts entire harmony unobtrusive ,

n ess and becom ingness If any fri en d should say to you

.
,
”
What a handsome waistcoat you have on ! you may depe n d
that a l ess handsome waistcoat wou l d be i n better taste If .

y ou hear i t said that M r So and So wears superb j ewellery

.
- -
,

y ou may conc l ude beforehand that he wears too much D is .

p lay in short is ever to be avoided especially in matters of

, , ,

dress The to il ette is the domain of the fair sex L e t a wise

. .

man leave its graces and luxuries to his wife daughters o r ,

s isters an d seek t o be himse l f a p preci ated for someth ing of

,

higher worth than the embroid ery u pon his shir t front, or the
trinkets on h is cha in .

T o be too much i n the fashi on is as vulga r a s to be too far

behind t Noi really we l bred man follows cy ery newout
.l-
48 E TI Q UE TTE FOR GE N TL E AIEM

that h e sees i n his tailor s fashion boo k Onl y very y oun g ’

- .

m en and those not of the most aristocratic c ircles are guilt y

, ,

o f this fo l ly .

” ’
The author of Pelham has aptly said that a gentleman s
coat shou l d n ot fi t too well T here is great truth and subtlet y .

i n this observation T o be fi tted too we ll is to look like a

.

tailor s assistant T his is the great fault which we have to

’
.

find in the style of even the bes t bred Frenchmen T hey look .

as if the y had j ust stepped out of a fashion -book and lack the ,

careless ease which makes an English gentleman loo k as if his

clothes belonged to him and not he to his c l othes , .

I n th e morning wear froc k coats double -breasted waist ,

~

coats and trous ers of light or dark colours according to the

, ,

season .

I n the evening though onl y in the bosom of y our o wn

,

famil y wear on l y black and be as scrupulous to put on a

, ,

dress coat as if y ou expected visitors I f you have sons .

,

brin g them up to do th e same I t is the observance of these .

m inor trifies i n domestic etiquette which marks the true

gentleman .

Fo r a rm ing parties dinner part ies and ba lls wear a blac k

, , ,

dress coat black trousers blac k silk or cloth waistcoat white

, , ,

cravat white or grey k id gloves and thin paten t leather boots

, , .

A black cravat may be worn in full dress bu t is not s o elegan t ,

as a white on e A black velvet waistcoat should onl y be worn

.

at a dinner party .

L e t y our j eweller y be of th e best bu t th e least gaud y ,

descri ption and wear i t very sparingly A set of good studs

, .
,

9 gold watch and guard and o ne h andsom e ring are as man y

.
, ,

ornaments as a gentleman can w ear with propriety I n th e .

m orn ing let your ring be a seal ri ng with y o ur crest or arms ,

engrav ed upon it I n the evening i t may be a diamond

. .

Your studs however valuable shou l d be small

, , .

I t i s well to remember in the choice of jewell ery that m er e

c ostliness is not alwa y s the test of value ; and that an exquisite
work of art such as a fin e cameo or a n atural rarity such as
, , ,

a b l ack pearl is a more a zstzngzzé p ossession than a large

’ '
’
,

bril l iant which an y rich and taste l ess vu l garian can buy as
easily as yourself Fo r a ring the gent l eman of fin e taste
.
,

wou l d prefer a precious antique zntaglzo t o the handsom es t

' ’

diamond or r uby that cou l d be brought at Hunt and R o ske ll s ’

.

T he most elegan t gentleman with whom the author was ever

acquainted — a man familiar with all the C ourts of Euro e
nev er w o re any other shirt stud s in full dress th an 0 -
 ~
E TI QUE TTE FOR GE N TL EM EN .
49

valuable black pearls each ab out the siz e of a pea, and by no

,

m eans beautiful to look at .

Of all preci ous stones the opal is on e of the most lovel y

,

and the least common place No vulgar m an purchases an

-
.

opal He invariab l y prefers the more sho wy diamond, rub y,

.

sapphire or emerald
, .

Unl ess y ou are a snu ff ta k er ne ver carry any but a whit e

-
,

po ck et handkerchief
-
.

I f in th e morning y ou wear a long cravat fastened b y a pin ,

be careful to avoid what may b e ca ll ed a llitera tio n of co l our .

W e have seen a to rquo ise pin worn in a vio l et coloured -

cravat and the e ffect was frightful C hoose i f possible com

, .
, ,

plem entary colours and thei r secondaries . Fo r instance if .

,

the ston e in y our pin be a to rqu o ise wear i t with bro wn or , ,

c ri mson m ixed with black or black and orange I f a rub y , .

,

contras t it with shades of green T he same rule holds good .

with rega rd to the m ixture and contrast of colours in you r

waistcoat or cravat T hus a bu ff waistcoat and a blue tie or
.
, _
,

brown and blue or brown and green or brown and magenta,

, ,

green and magenta, green and mauve, are all good arrange
m ents of colour .

V e ry light coloured cloths for morning wear are to be

avoided even in th e height of summer a nd fanc y cloths of
,

s trange patterns and mixtures are exceedingly obj ectionable .

C o l oured shirts ma y be wor n in the m orn ing but the y

sh ould be small in pattern and quiet in co l our , .

W ith a coloured shirt alway s wear a white collar , .

Never wear a cap unless in the fi elds or garden and let

,

y our ha t b e always black ’

.

Fo r a gentleman s wedding dress see th e ET I QUET I E OF ’ ‘

C o u a r sm p AND MA R R I A G E .

I f y our sight compels you to wear spectacles , let them be o f

the best and lightest m ake , and m ounted in go l d or blue steel .

I f you su ffer from weak sight , and are obliged t o wear

c oloured glasses, let them be of blue or smo k e colour Green .

are detestable .

Never be seen in the s t reet without gloves ; and nev er let

y our gloves be of an y m aterial tha t is not kid or ca l f W orsted .

o r cotton gloves are unutterably vu lgar Your g l oves should .

fi t to the last degr ee of perfection .

I n these da y s of pub l ic baths and universal progress we ,

t rust that it is unnecessa ry t o do more than hint at the neces

sity of the most fastidious personal c l eanliness The hai r the .
,

teeth the nai l s shou l d be faultlessly k ept and a soil ed shi rt

, , ,

a dingy poc k et handkerchief, or a light waistcoan th at has been

-

4
worn once too often are things to be scrupulousl y avoi ded by
,

an y man who is ambitious of preserving the exteri or of a gentl e

man .

VIII — R IDI NG
. AND DR IVING.

In ri ding as i n wal k ing gi ve th e lad y th e wall

, ,
.

I f you assist a lady to mount ho l d your hand a t a c ouve ,

nient d istance from the ground that she may place her foot in ,

i t As she springs y ou aid her b y the impetus of your hand

. ,
.

I n doing this i t is always better to agr ee upon a signal that

, ,

her spring and y our as sistance may come at the same mom en t .

Fo r thi s purp ose th ere is no better fo rm than the old duel

“
ling one of one two ti me , , .

W hen th e lady is in the saddle, it i s your place to fin d the

stirru p for her and guide her l eft foot to it Wh en this is
, .

done she ris es in her s eat and y ou assis t her to draw her
,

habit straight .

Even when a groom i s present i t i s more polite for the ,

gentleman himse l f to p erform this o ffice for his fair com

panion ; as i t wou l d be m ore po l ite for hi m to hand her a .

chair than to have i t hand ed by a servant .

If the lad y be li ght y ou mus t take care not t o give her

,

too much impetus in mounting W e have k nown a lady .

n ear l y thr own over h er horse b y a mispl ac ed zeal of this

k ind .

I n riding W i th a lad y never p ermi t h er to pa y the to lls

, .

If a gate has to be open ed , we ne ed hardly observe tha t it

is y our p l ac e to hold it open till the lady h as passed through .

In driving a gentleman places himse l f with his b ack t o

,

th e horses and l eaves the bes t seat for the ladies

, .

If you are alone in a carriage with a l ady never sit beside

"

her unless you are her husband father son or brother

, , , , .

E ven though y ou be h er a ffianced lover y ou shou l d st ill o h ,

serve this rule of etiquette T o d o other wise, would be to .

assum e the unceremoni ous air of a husband .

W hen the carriage stops the gentleman shoul d alight fi rst, ,

in order to assist the lad y .

T o get in and out of a carria g e gracefully is a s imple bu t

importan t accomp l ishmen t If th ere is but one step and .
,
y ou are go ing to tak e y our seat facing the hors es put y our ,

left fo ot o n the step and enter the carriage with y our right
 Q0 12 TTE FOR GEN I Z EME M 51
in such a m anner as t o drop at o nce into y our seat .I f y ou
are about to sit with your back to th e horses , reverse the
process As y ou step i nto the carriage be careful to k eep
.
,

y our bac k towards the seat y ou are abou t to occup y so as to ,

a voi d th e aw k wardness of turning when y ou are onc e i n .

A gentleman cannot b e too careful to avoid stepping on

ladies dresses wh en h e gets i n or out of a carria ge He
’
.

should also beware of shutting them I n with the door .

IX .
—MOR NI NG AND EVENI NG P A R TIES .

The morni ng paI ty is a modern i nvention ; it was un k now n

to our fathers and mothers and even to ourselves till qu ite
.
, ,

latel y A m o m ing party is se l dom given ou t of th e season

.

that Is to say during any months except those of May June,

, ,

and Ju ly I t begins about two o clock and ends about five

.
’
,

a nd the entertainment consists for the most paI t o f conversa

tion music and ( if there be a ga i den ) croquet lawn billia i ds
, , , ,
”
archery & c A unt S a lly
, is n ow ou t of fashion The
. .

refreshments are given i n the form of a flzj edfl er a la f ou r

'

j f

E l egant morning dress general good m anners , some , a nd

a cquaintance with the topics of the day and the games abov e
named are a l l the qua l ifications esp eciall y necessary to a
,

gent l eman at a m orning part y .

An even ing party begins about n in e o cloc k p m an d ’

,
.

ends about midnight or somewhat l ater G ood breeding

, .

neither demands that yo u shou l d present yourself at the com

m e ncement n or rema i n till the close of the evening
, You .

come and go as ma y be most convenien t to y ou and b y these ,

m eans are at libert y during the height of the season whe n

,

evening parties are numerous to present y ourself at two or ,

three hous es during a sing l e evening .

A lway s put y our gloves on befor e entering the dra wing

room and b e carefu l that there is n o speck of mud upon
,

y our boots or trousers .

When name is announced loo k for the lad y o f t he

h ouse an ( your
,

pay y our respects to h er befor e yo u even seem to

see an y other of your friends who ma y be i n the room At .

ver y large and fashionable receptions the hostess Is general l

y ,

to be found n ear the door Should y ou ho wever fi nd your

.
, ,
a

se lf se para t ed b y a dens e crow d of guests, y ou are at libertv

—2
4
 E TI Q UE T TE FOR GE NTL EME M

to recogni z e those wh o are n ear you an d those whom yo u ,

e nco un ter as you mak e your way s l owly through th e throng .

Gen eral sal utations of th e compan y are no w whol l y dis

us ed . I n society a m an only recogniz es h is o wn friends and
,

a cquaintances .

I f you are at the house of a n ew acquaintanc e and fi nd

y ours elf among entire strangers remember that b y so meet ,

i ng under one roof y ou are a ll in a certain sense made kno wn

to one another and should therefore converse freel y as
, ,

e qua l s . T o shrink away to a side tab l e and a ffect to be ah -

sorbed i n some a l bum or i llustrated work ; or i f y ou find ,

one un l uck y acquaintan ce i n the room to fasten upon him ,

like a drowning man c l inging to a spar are ga u clwr zer whi ch

'

n o shyness ca n excus e A n easy and unembarrass ed manner

.
,

and the se l f possession requisite to open a conversation with

-

those who happen t o be nea r you are the in dispensable cre ,

d entials of a we ll br ed man -
.

A t an evening party d o n ot remain too long i n one spot

, .

T o be afra id to m ove from one drawing room to another is -

the sure s ign of a neophyte i n society .

If you hav e occa ion to us e your hand k erch ief do so as

s
,

noise l essly as p ossib l e T o bl ow your n ose as if it were a

.

t rombone or to turn y our head aside when using your han d

'

kerchief are vul garitie s scrupu l ous l y to be avoided

, .

Never sta nd upon the hearth rug wi th your bac k to th e -

fi re either in a friend s house or your own W e have seen

,
’
.

e ven well bred men at evening parties commit this se l fish an d

-

vul gar solecism .

Never offer an y one the chair from which y ou have j us t

risen u nless there be n o other ( lisenga gcd
, .

I f when supper is ann ounced n o l ady has been especiall y

placed under your care by the hostess o ffer your arm to ,

whichever l ady you may have l ast conversed with .

I f you possess any musica l accomp l ishmen ts do not wait ,

to be pressed and entreated by your hostess but compl y ,

mediate l y when she pays y ou the compliment of in viting y o u

t o p l ay or sing R emember however that on l y th e lady of
.
, ,

th e house has the right to as k y ou I f others do so y ou can .

,

put them off i n some po l ite wa y ; but must not comp l y t ill
the hostess herself inv ites you .

I f you sing com ic songs be careful that the y are of the ,

m ost unexccptio na ble k ind and like l y to offend neither th e

,

tastes n or prej udices of the society in which you find your

s e l f At an even ing party given expressly in honour of a
.

d is tingu ished lad y of colour, we once h ea rd a thought l ess

54 15 q UE TTE FOR GE NTL E MEM

u pon the table w ith their faces downwards the four play ers ,

d raw for p artners T ho se wh o draw the two highest cards

.

a nd those who draw the two low est b ecome pa rtners The .

lo west of all cla ims the deal .

M am ed peop l e should not pla y at the

’

where the party is so small that i t cann ot be avoided T his .

r ule s upposes n othing so dis gracefu l to any marri ed coupl e as

d ishonest co llusion but persons who p l ay regu l ar ly together
’
c annot fail t o know so m uch o f each other s m od e of act ing , ,

u nder given circumstances that the chanc es n o longer remain ,

perfect ly even i n favour of th eir adversaries .

N ever play for higher stakes than y ou can a fford to lose

without regret C ards should be resorted to for amus ement
.

o nl y for excitement never ,

.

No well bred p erson ever loses t emper at the card tab l e

- -
.

Y o u have no right to si t do wn to the gam e u nless y ou ca n .

be ar a long run of ill luck with perfec t composure and are ,

prepared chee rful l y to pa ss over an y blun ders that y our partn er

m ay chan ce to make .

If you are an i ndifferent play er mak e a point of sa ying so ,

b efore y ou j oin a party at whist I f the others are fi ne p l ayers .

the y w ill be i nfinitel y more obliged t o y ou for dec l in ing than

accepting their invitation I n any case y ou have n o right to
.

spoil their pleasur e by your bad pla y .

N ever let even pol iteness induc e you to play for ve ry high
s takes . E tiquette is the m inor m orality of l ife but it never
shou l d be allowed to outweigh the higher c ode of right and
wrong .

B e scrupulous to observe silence when an y of the compan y

are play ing or singing R emember that they are d oing this for
.

the amusement of the res t and that t o talk at such a time i s

as ill-bred as i f you were to turn y our back upon a p erson
who was talking t o y ou an d begin a conversation with so me
,

one else .

I f you are y ourself the performer b ear i n mind that i n

'

,
”
m us ic as in speech
, brevity is the soul of wit
, T wo verses .

o f a song or four pages of a p iece are at a l l tim es en ough to

, ,

give p l easure I f your audienc e desire m ore they will ask for
.

m ore and i t is infinite l y more flattering to be encored than

t o receive the thanks of your hearers not so m uch in gratitud e ,

fo r what you have give n them but i n re l ie f that y ou have le ft ,

of f You should try to suit your m usic l ike y our conversati on

.
, ,

to y our compan y A s ol o of Bee thoven s wou l d be as much

’
.

“
o u t of place in s ome c ircles as a co m ic song at a Quak ers
m ee ting T o th ose who onl y care for the light popul ari ti es,
.
 E TI QUE TTE FOR GE N TLEME M 5g
of the season give Balfe and V erdi Glover and Jull ien To
, , . .

c onnoisseurs i f you pe rf orm well enough to venture gi ve such

, ,

m usic as will be likel y to meet the exigences of a fine t aste .

Above all attempt n othing that y ou cann ot e x ecute wi th ease

,

and precision ;
I n retiring from a crowded party it is unnec essary that y o u
shou l d seek out the h ostess for the pu rp ose of bidding her a
formal good n ight By doing this you would perhaps remind
.
, ,

others th at i t was getting late and cause the part y to break up , .

If you meet the lad y of th e house on y our way t o th e

drawing room door tak e y our leave of her as un obtrusive l y
-
,

as possib l e and sli p awa y wi thout attracting the att ention o f

,

her other guests .

x ; THE D INNER TABLE

. .

be acquainted with every d etail of the etiquet t e pertain

To
ing to this subj ect is of the highest importance to every gent l e
man Ease sa w ir f a ire an d good breeding are no where
.
, ,

m ore indispensab l e than at the dinner tab l e and the a bsence -

,

of them are nowhere more apparent Ho w to eat soup and .

what to do with a cherr y ston e are weight y conside rations -

when taken as th e index of social status ; and it is no t too

much to sa y that a man who elected to tak e clare t W i th his
,

fish or ate peas with his knife would j ustl y ris k the a nish
, ,

ment of being banished from g ood society As this su !ect is .

one of th e mos t important of which w e have to treat we ma y ,

be pardoned for introducing an appropriate anecdote I elated

b y the French poet D eli ll e
D eli ll e and M arm o ntel were dining together i n the m onth
of Apri l 1 786 and the conversation happened to turn upon
, ,

d inner table customs M a rm o ntel observed how many little

-
.

thin gs a we ll bred man was ob l iged to know if he would avoid

-
,

being ridiculous at the tables of his friends .

” “
T he y are indeed innum erable
, said Delille ,and the ,

most annoying fact of a ll is that not a l l the wit and good ,

sense in the wor l d ca n he l p one to divine them untaugh t A .

little while ago for instance the Abb é C osson who is Pro
, , ,

fe sso r of L iterature at the C ol l ege M a z arin was describ i ng to ,

m e a grand dinner to which he had been invited at V ersa i ll es ,

and to which he ha d sat down in the compan y of peers, princes,

and marshals o f Franc e .
 56 E TI QUE TI E FOR GE N TL E ME M

wager n ow sai d I that you com mi tt ed a h undred

Ifll , , ,
‘

blunders i n the etiquette of the table

‘
Ho w so rep l ied the Abb é somewhat nettl ed \Vha t , .

blunders could I mak e ? I t see ms t o me that I did prec isely

’
as others did .

And I on th e contrary would stak e m y l ife that y ou

, ,

did no thing as others did But let us begin at the beginning .

,

a nd see whi ch is right In the first place there was your table
.

napkin — what did y ou do wi th that wh en y ou sa t down at

tab l e
W hat did I do with m y table napk in Why I di d li k e -
,

the rest of th e guests I shoo k it out of the folds sprea d it ,

’
before m e an d fastened on e corn er to my button hole
,
-
.

‘
V ery w el l 1m m c/zer
,
y ou were the only pe rson who
,

d id 5 0 N0 one shakes spreads an d fastens a table napkin

.
, ,
v

i n that m anner You should hav e onl y lai d i t across y our

.

knees W hat soup had y ou ?

.
’

T urtle .

And how did y ou eat i t ?

L ik e every one els e I suppos e I t oo k m y sp oon in , .

o ne hand and m y fork in the oth er

,

Your fork G ood heavens None but a savage eat s

soup with a fork B ut go on W hat did y ou tak e nex t ?
.
’
.

A boiled egg .
’

Good and what did y o u do with th e shell ? ’

‘
No t eat it certainl y I left it of cours e in th e egg-cup ’ .
, , .

W ithout breaking it through wi th y our spoon

W ithout breaking i t .
’

T hen my dear fell o w permi t m e t o tell y ou that no

, ,

on e eats an egg wi thout break ing the shell and leaving the
sp oon standing in i t And after y our egg ? .
’

I ask ed for some

'

Fo r éouzllz I I t is a te rm that n o one use s You sh oul d

’

h ave as k ed for beef— n ever for bouilli \Vell and after the .
,

as k d the
I e Abb é
de R ado nvilla is for some fowl .
’

‘
W retch ed man ! Fowl ind eed ! Y ou should hav e ,
”
ask ed for chicken or capon Th e word fowl is never h eard .

out of the k itchen But all th is app l ies only t o what you
.

ate ; te ll m e s omething of wha t y ou d rank , an d ho w y o u

’
ask ed for it .

I asked for cha mpagn e and bord eau x from th ose who
ha d the bottles before them .
’

K now then m y good friend that o nly a waiter who

, , ,
has no tim e or breath to s pare, asks for champa ne or bo r
g
 £ 7 19(1 5 TTE FOR GEN TL E M EN .
57
deau x . A gentleman as k s for wi n de Cfia mpag ne and via de
B ordea ux now i nform me how y ou ate y our bread
. And
Undoubtedl y li k e all the rest of the world I cut i t u
p .

into small square p iec es with my k ni fe

’
.

T hen let me tell y ou that no one cuts bread You should .

always break it L et us go on to the co ffee Ho w did yo u

. .

d rink y ours ?
’

Pshaw At leas t I could mak e n o mistak e in th at It .

was boiling hot so I poured it, a littl e at a time, in the sau

,
.

cer and dran k it as it cooled

’
.
,

£11 bim 1 then you assuredly acted as n o other gentle

man in the room Nothing can be more vu l gar than to pour
.

tea or coffee into a saucer You should have waited ti l l i t .

cooled and then have drank i t from the cup And n ow you
, .

see m y dear cousin that s o far from doing precise l y as oth ers
, , ,

d id y ou acted in n o o ne respect according to the laws pre

,

scribed by etiqu ette .

’

An invitation to dine should he replied to imm ed iately and ,

unequivocall y accepted or declin ed O nce accepted noth ing .

,

but an event of the las t importance should cause y ou to fa il in

y our engagem ent .

T o be e x actl y punctu al is the strictest politeness on these

occasions If you are too earl y you are in the way ; if too
. ,

late y ou spo il the dinner annoy the hostess and are hated by
, , ,

the rest of th e guests S ome authorities are even of opinion

.

“
that in the question of a d in ner party never is better tha n -

“ late and one author has gone so far as to say if y ou d o ,

n ot reach the house ti ll dinn er is se rved y ou had better retire ,

to a restaurateur s and thence send an apo l ogy and not inter

’
, ,

r upt the harmony of th e co urses b y aw k ward e x cuses an d

”
c o l d acceptance .

W hen th e party is assembled the mistress or m aster of th e ,

house wi l l point out to each gen tl eman the lad y whom he is

t o conduct to table I f sh e be a stranger you ha d bett er
.
,

se ek an introduction if a previous acquaintance tak e care t o ,

be near her when the dinner is announced o ffer your arm , ,

and go down according to precedence of rank T his order .

o fprecedence must be arranged by the hos t or hostess as the ,

gu ests are probabl y unacquainted and cannot know eac h ,

o the r s social rank

’
.

W hen the societ y is of a distingu ish ed k ind the ho st will ,

d o well to consult Debrett or Bur k e before arranging his ,

visitors .

When ran k is n ot i n question other claims t o prec eden ce ,

must be c onsidered The lad y who i s the greatest strange r

.
58 E TI QUE TTE FOR GE N TL EME IV .

sh oul d b e ta k en down b y the master of the house and the ,

gentleman who i s th e greatest stranger shoul d conduct the

hostess M arri ed ladies tak e precedenc e of single l adies,
.

e l der l adies of y ounger ones and so forth , .

W hen dinn er is announced the hos t offers his arm to the ,

lad y of most distinction i nvites the rest to follow b y a few

,

words or a bow and leads the way T he lady of the house

,
.

sh ould then follow with the gentleman who is m ost enti tled to
that h ono u r and the visitors fo l low in the order that the mas
,

ter of the house has previously arr anged T he l ad y of th e .

house frequent l y remains however till th e last that she may , , ,

see her guests go down in their prescribed order ; but the

p lan is not a convenient one I t is much better that the hos .

t ess should be in her place as the guests enter the dining room -
,

in order that she may indicate the ir seats t o them as the y

co me in a nd not find them all crowded together in uncer
,

tai nty when she arrives .

The number of guests at a dinner -party should alwa ys b e

determ ined by the si z e of the tab l e W hen th e party is too .

small conversati on fl ags and a general air of desolation per

, ,

vades the tab l e W hen they are too many every on e is

.
‘

inconvenienced A space of two feet shou l d be a l lowed to

.

each p erson I t is we l l to arrange a party in such wise that

.

the number of l adies and gent l emen be equa l .

I t requires s ome tact to distribute y our g uests so that each

shall find himse l f with a n eighbo ur to his taste bu t as muc h
‘

of the success of a dinner wi l l a l ways depen d on this matter ,

i t is worth some consideration I f you have a wi t or a par .

,

ticularly good talker among y our visitors i t i s we l l to p l ac e

, ,

h im n ear the centre of the tabl e where he can be heard ,

and ta lk ed to by all I t is obvi ous l y a bad plan to p l ace two

.

such persons in close proximit y T hey extinguish each oth er . .

Neither is it advisab l e to assign two neighbouring seats to two

gent l emen of the same professi on a s they are l ikely to fall ,

i nto exc l usive conversation and amuse n o on e but themselves .

A litt l e consideration of the po l itics re l igious opinions and , ,

tastes of his fri ends will enable a j udicious host to avoid

,

many quicksands and estab l ish much pleasan t interco urs e on

,

the occasion of a d inner party .

T he lad y of the house takes th e head of the table T he .

gentleman who l ed her down t o dinner occupies th e seat on

her right hand and the gentl eman next i n order of preced
,

ence that on her left T he master of the house takes the foot
,
.

o f the table T he lad y whom he escorted sits on his right

.

han d, and the lad y n e x t i n ord er of preced enc e on h s left

i

.
 E TI QUE TTE FOR GEN TL E ME N .
5;
The gentlemen who support th e lad y of the house should
o ffer to re l ieve her of the duties of hostess . M an y ladies are
we l l pleased thus to delegate the di ffi culties of carving and all ,

gent l emen wh o accept invitations to dinner should be pre~

pared to render such assistance when ca l led upon T o o ffer .
-

to carv e a dish and then perform the o ffi ce unski l full y is a n

, ,

u npardonable ga ud wrie Every gentleman should carve and

. ,

carve well .

As so o n as yo u are s eated at table remove y our gloves , ,

place y our table napkin across y our kne es and remov e the ,

ro l l which y ou fi nd probab ly withi n it to the left s ide of y our

Plate .

The soup sh ould b e placed on the table fi rs t Som e old .

fashioned persons still place soup and fish together but it “

is a custom more honoured in the breach than the o bserv
”
ance . S ti l l more o l d -fashion ed ; and i n st ill worse taste is it
”
t o as k your guests if the y will take soup or fish T he y are .

as much separate courses as the fish and the m eat ; and all
experienced din ers take both I n an y cas e it is inho spit .
.

ab l e to appear to force a choice upon a visitor when that visi ,

t or in all probabilit y will prefer to take his soup first and

, ,

his fish afterwards Al l well ordered dinners begi n with soup

.
-
,

whether in su mmer or winter T he lady of the house should .

help i t and send it round withou t as k ing each indivi dual in

,

turn I t is as much an understood thing as the bread beside

.
'

each plate and those who d o n ot choose i t are al ways at

, ,

liberty to leave it untasted .

I n eating soup remember al wa y s to take i t from the side o f

,

the spo o n a nd to make n o sound in doing s o

,' .

I f the servants d o not go roun d with wine the gentlemen

sh o u ld help the ladies and themselves to sherr y or sautern e
’

i mmediate l y after the soui

You should n ev e r ask tg r a se cond suppl y of either soup or
fis h i t de l ays the n ex t cours e and keeps the table waiting, .

Nev er O der to assist your n eighbours to this or that dish .

Th e word is inexpress ibly vu l gar — a ll th e m ore vulgar fo r i ts

“
a lfe cta tio n of elegance Sha l l I send y ou some mutton
.

”
or ma y I help y ou to gro use ? is better chosen an d better
bred .

As a gen eral rule it is better not t o ask y our guests i f the y

,

will p artak e of the dishes bu t to send the p l ates round and ,

l et them accept or decline them as t he y please At very large .

dinners it is sometimes custom ar y t o distribute l ittle l ists o f

the order of th e dishes at interva l s along th e tab l e : I t must
be confessed that this gives som ewhat the air of a di nner at an
60 E TI QUE T TE FOR GE N TL E ME M

hotel ; bu t it has the advantage of enabling the visitors to

“ ”
s elect their fare and as ,forewarn ed is forearm ed to keep
, ,

a corner as the chi l dren sa y for their favou rite dishes

, ,

If you are asked to tak e wine it is polite to select the sam e ,

as that which your interlocutor is drinking I f y ou invite a .

lady to take win e y ou should ask her which she will pre fer
, ,

and t hen take the same yourself Should y ou however fo r .

, ,

any reason prefer some other vintage y ou can ta k e it b y cour ,

te o usly requesting her permission .

As soon as y ou are help ed begin to eat ; or if the vi ands , ,

are too hot for your palate take u p your knife and fork a nd ,

appe ar to begin : T o wait for oth ers is now not onl y old
fashioned but ill b red
,
-
.

Never o ffer to pass on the plate to which y ou have been

helped T his is a still m ore vu l gar piece of politeness and
.
,

belongs to th e manners of a hundred years ago The lady of .

the house wh o sends y our plate to y ou is the best j udge of

precedenc e at her own table .

I n he l ping soup fish or an y other dish remember that to

, , ,

o verfill a p l ate is as bad as to supp l y i t to o s ca ntily .

Silver fish knives will n ow a l ways be met with at the bes t

-

tables but where there are none a piece of crust should be ,

taken in the left hand and the for k in the right T here is no
, .

except ion to this ru l e in eating fish .

W e presume it is scarcely necessary to remind the reader

that he is never under an y circumstances to convey his
, ,

knife to his mouth Peas are eaten with the fork ; tarts,
.

curry and puddings of a l l kinds with the spoon

, .

A l ways help fish with a fish slice an d tart and puddings -

,

with a spoon or if n ecessary a spoon and fork

, , , .

Asparagus m ust be helped with the asparagus ton gs -

.

I n eating asparagus it is wel l to observe what others do a nd

, ,

act accord ingl y S ome very well bred peo ple eat it with the
.
-

fingers ; others cut o ff the heads and convey them “ i the ,

mouth upon the fork I t would be di ffi cult to say which is

.

the m ore correct .

I n eating stone fruit such as cherries damsons &c the , , , .

,

same ru l e had better be observed S ome put the stones o ut .

from the mouth into a spoon and so conv ey the m to the ,

plate O thers c over the lips with the hand drop them nu
‘

.
,

se en into the palm and so deposit them on the side of the

,

p l ate In our o wn opinion the last is the better wa y as i t

.
, ,

effe ctuall y conceals the return of the stones wh ich is cer ,

tainly the point of highest importance Of one thing we may .

62 E n oUE TTE f or GE N TL EME W
.

wa fer can ask ed for iced water if the y choose, bu t it savour:

too much of econom y on th e p art of a host to ins inuate the
i ce inside the glasses of his guests when the wine could be ,

m ore e ffectu al l y iced outside the bottle .

A silver knife and fork should be plac ed to each gu es t a t

dessert .

I f y ou are ask ed to prepare fruit for a lad y be careful to do ,

so by means of the si l ver kn ife and for k only , an d n ever to

,

touch i t with y our fi ngers .

I t IS wise never to partake of an y dish wi thou t k nowing o f

what ingr edients i t i s composed You can always ask th e .

servant who hands i t to y ou an d y ou thereby avoid all danger

,

of having to commi t the impo l iteness of leaving it and show ,

ing that you do not approve of it .

N ever speak while you have an y thing i n y our mouth .

B e carefu l never to taste soups or puddings till you are sure

they are su fficiently cool ; as by disregarding this caution
, ,

y ou m ay be compell ed to swallow what is dangerously hot ,

or be d riven to the unpardonable alternative of returning it to

y our plate .

When eating or drink ing avoid every k ind of audible testi

,

m ony to the fact .

Finger-glasses containing water slightl y warmed an d per

,

fumed are p l aced to each person at dessert I n these you

, .

m ay dip the tips of your fingers wiping them after wards on ,

y our table napkin I f the finger gl ass and d Oyley are place d
- .
-
’

on your dessert plate you shou l d immediate l y remove the

-
,

d o yle y to the left of your plate and place the finger glass
’

,
-

upon it By these means you leave the right for the win e
.

g l asses .

Be careful to k now th e shapes of th e vari ous k inds of

wine -gl asses commonly in use in order t hat y ou may never
,

put forward one for another High and narrow and ve ry.
,

broad an d sha l low glasses are used for champagne large

, , ,

gob l et shap ed glass es for burgundy and claret ordinary wine ,

g l asses for sherry and madeira ; green glasses for hock ; and
somewhat l arge bell shaped glasses for p ort
, , .

Port sherry and madeira are decant ed

, , Hock s and
, .

champagn es appear in their native bottles C laret and bur .

gundy are handed round in a claret jug

- .

C o ffee and liqueurs should be handed rou nd when the des

sert has been about a quarter of an hour on the table A fter .

this the l a dies general l y retire

, .

Should n o se rvan t be present t o do so, the gentleman who

is nearest the door should hold i t for the ladies t o p as s
through .

When the ladies leave the dining room th e gentlemen all -

,

rise in their p l aces , an d do not resume their seats till the las t
lad y is gon e .

E
l
servants leave the ro om when the dessert is o n the
‘

t a ebe .

I f y ou should unfortunatel y overturn or brea k a n ything,

d o n ot apologi z e for it You can show y our regre t in y our
.

face but i t is not wel l bred to pu t it into words

,
- .

Should you inj ure a lady s dress apologise ampl y and as

’
, ,

sist her if possib l e to remove a l l traces of the damage

, , .

T o abstain from taking the last piece on the dish or the ,

last glass of wine in the decanter only because i t is the last , ,

i s highl y ill bred I t implies a fear that the vacancy cannot

-
.

be supp l ied an d almost conveys an a ffront to your host

, .

I n summing up the little duties and laws of th e tabl e a ,

— “ h
p opular author has said that T e chief matter of considera
tion at the dinner table — as indeed every where e l se in the
-
, ,

life of a gentleman — 1 s to be perfect ly composed and at his

case . He speaks deliberatel y he performs the most impor
tant act of the da y as if he were performing the m ost ordinary .

Yet there is n o appearance of trifling or want of gravity i n his

m anner ; h e maintains the dignit y which is so becoming on so
vital an occasion He performs all th e ceremonies y et in the
.
,

style of o ne who performs n o ceremonies at al l He goes .

through a ll the comp l icated duties of th e scene as if he were

’
‘
to th e manner born .

T o the giver of a din ner we have but on e or two remark s

to o ffer I f he be a bachelor he had better give his dinner
.
,

at a good hotel or have i t sent in from Birch s or K iihn s

,
’ ’
.

I f a married m an h e will we presume enter into c ouncil

‘

, , ,

with his wife and his cook I n any case however h e shoul d .
, ,

always hear in m ind that it is his duty to enterta in his friends

i n the best manner that his means permi t ; and that this is
the least he can do to recompense them for the expenditure
of time and mone y which the y in cur in accepting his invita
t ion
.

“
T o in vite a friend to dinner says Bri llat Savarin is , ,

t o becom e respons ible for his happ iness so long as h e is under

”
y ou r roof Again . He who receives friends at his tabl e,
without having bestowed his personal supervision upon the
”
repas t placed b efore them is unworth y to have friends , .

A dinner to be excell ent n eed not consist of a great

, ,

vari e ty of dishes : bu t every thing should b e of the best, and

64 E TI Q UE T TE FOR GEN TL EME N .

the cook ery sh ould be per fect That which sh ould be c ool
.

shou l d be cool as ice ; that which shou l d be h ot sh ould be

sm oking ; the attendance should be rapid and n oiseless ; the
guests well assorted the win es of the best quality th e host
attentive an d court eous ; the room well lighted and the ti me
punctual .

E very dinn er should be gin with soup b e followed b y fi sh, .

and include some kind of game T he sou is t o th e din

” p “
.

n er we are to l d b y Grisno d de la egniere

,
R what the ,
”
portico is to a building or the overture to an opera
, .

T o this aphorism we ma y be perm itted to add that a ( bar re

o f cognac or cura coa at the close of the d inner is lik e the
e pi l ogue at the end of a com ed y .

O ne more quotation and we have don e T o p erfo rm

fau l tlessly the hon ours of the table is on e of the most d iffi
cu l t things in society I t might indeed be asserted wi thout
.

m uch fear of contradiction that n o man has as y et ever

,

reached exact propriety in his offi ce as host or has hit the , .

m ean between exerting himself too much and too li ttle His .

great business is t o put eve ry one entirel y at his ease t o ,

gratify a l l his d esires and mak e him in a word absolute l y

, , ,

contented with men and th ings T o accomp l ish this h e .

,

must have the geni us of tact to perceive an d the gen ius of ,

finesse to execute ; ease and frankness of m ann er ; a kn ow

ledge of the worl d that nothing can surprise ; a c lmn ess of a

temper that nothing can d isturb ; and a k indness of disposi

tion that can never be exhausted \Vhen he receives others.

he must be content to forget himself ; he must relinquish all

desire to shin e and even a l l attempts to please his gu ests b y
,

c onversation an d rather do all in his power to let the m

,

please one another He behaves t o them withou t agitation

.
,

w ithout a ffectation h e pays attention without an air of pro

tectio n ; he encourages the timid draws c u t th e si l ent an d , ,

directs conversation without sustaining i t himself He who .

d oes not do all this is wanting in h is dut y as host — ire w/zo

’
do es, i: m ore t/zcm m or ta l .

I n conclusion , we may obser e that to si t long i n the d in

v

i ng room after the ladies have retired is to pay a bad comp l i

-

m ent to the hostess and her fair visitors and that it is a still
worse tribute to rej oin them with a flush ed face and impaired
p owers of thought A refined gentle man is alwa ys tempe
.

rat e.
 GENTL EMEN
’

ETI QUE TTE FOR . 65

X I —TnE BA L L -R OOM
. .

I nvitations to a ball are issued at least ten days i n advance ;

’

and th is term is sometimes in the height of the season e x

, ,

tended to thre e week s or even a month , .

An invitation should be accepted or declined within a da y

o r two of its reception .

G ent l emen who do not dance should n ot accept inv itation s

of this kind T hey are but incumbrances in the ball room
.
-
,

besides which i t looks lik e a breach of etiquette an d cour

,

tesy to stand or sit idly by when there are m ost probabl y , ,

ladies in the room who are waiting for an invitation to dance .

A ba l l genera ll y begins about half past nine or te n o c l ock

’
-
.

A man who stands up to dance without b eing a cquainted

with the fi gures makes himself ridicu l ous and p l aces his
, ,

partner in an embarrassing and unenviable position T her e .

i s n o need for him to kn ow the steps I t is enough if h e .

knows how to wa l k gracefu lly through the danc e and to ,

c onduct his p artner through i t lik e a gentleman No m an .

can walt z too well but t o perform steps in a quadrille is not

onl y unn ecessary but ozttré .

A gentleman cannot as k a lad y to dance withou t being

fi rst introduced to her b y some member of the h ostess s ’

famil y .

Never enter a ball room in other than full evening dress ,

-

and white or light kid gloves .

A gentleman cannot be too careful not t o inj ure a lady s

’

d ress . T he young men of the present day are inconceivab ly

thoughtless in this respect and often seem to thin k the m is
,

chief wh ich they do scarce l y w orth a n apology C ava l r y .

o ffi cers shoul d never wear spurs in a ba ll room -

.

B ear in mind that a ll Ca sino habits are t o be scrupulousl y

avoided in a private ball -room I t is an a ffront to a highly.

bred lad y to hold her han d behind you or on y o ur hip whe n ,

'

dancing a round dance W e have seen even aristocrati c

.

“
y oung men of th e fast genus commi t these unpardon ab l e
o ffences against taste and decorum .

Never forget a ba l l roo m engagemen t

-
I t is th e greatest .

neglect and slight that a gent l eman can o ffer to a lady . .

A t the beginning and end of a quadri ll e the gentlema n

bows to his partner and bows again on handing her to a
,

seat.

After dancing th e gentleman ma y o ffer to conduct the

,

lad y to the r efreshment -r oo m .

 66 E TI QUE TTE FOR GENTLEMEN

Should a lad y decline y our h an d for a dance and a fter; ,

wards stand up with another partn er y ou will do well to ,

a ttribute her error to either forgetfu l ness or i gnorance of the

la ws of etiquette . Poli teness towards your host and hostes s
demands that y ou shoul d n ever mak e an y little personal
griev a nce the ground of discomfort or dis agreement .

A gentleman conducts his last p artn e r to sup r ; waits

u pon h er till she has had as much refreshm ®t as sh e des ires ,
a nd then re conducts her to the ball room .

However much pleas ure y ou ma y t ak e in the societ y of

an y particul ar lad y etiquette forbids that y ou should dance
,

with her too frequently Enga ged persons woul d do well to

.

bear this m ax im in m in d .

I t IS custom ar y to call upon y o ur en tert ainers wi thin a few

d a ys after the ball .

XII — STAYI NG
. AT A FR I END S
’
Ho use z- BR EAK FA ST,
L U NCHEON, &c .

A visitor 1 s b ound b y the laws of social in tercou rs e to con

fo rm i n al l respects to the habits of the house I n order to .

do this e ffectu ally he shou l d m quire (i t cause his personal

'

, ,

servan t to i nquir e what those habits are

, T o k eep y our .

fr iend s brea kfas t on the table till a late hour t o de l ay the

’

d inn er b y want of punctualit y to accept other invitat i ons ,

a nd treat his house as if i t were m erely an hotel to he slep t

in ; or to k e ep the family up till unwonted hours are alik e ,

e vi dences of a want of o o d feeling and good breedin

g .

At breakfas t an d lunc absolute punctualit y 1 5 not i mpera

ti ve ; but a visito r should avoid being alwa ys the last to app ear

N0 order of precedence observed at either brea kfast or

15
luncheon . Persons ta k e the ir seats as the y come in and , ,

h aving exchanged their morning salutations begi n to eat ,

without wait ing for the rest of the p arty .

I f letters are delivered t o you at breakfast or luncheon y o u ,

ma y read them b y ask ing p erm ission from the lady who pre
sides at the urn .

Always hold ourself at th e disposal of those in whose

y
hous e y ou are vis i ting If they propose to ride drive walk
.
, , ,

For a more detail a“cco unt of the l aws an”d busineSS of i n ball ,
see the cha pt ers entitl The Ball roo m Guido .
 E TI Q weTTE FOR GE NZ Z EMEN . 67

or otherwise oc cup y the day y ou ma y tak e i t for grante d ,

that these plans are made with reference to y our enj oyment .

You should therefore receive them wi th cheerfulness enter

, , ,

in to th em with alacri t y an d do y our b est to seem p l eased

, ,

and be pleas ed b y the e fforts which your friends mak e to

,

entertain you .

You should n ever tak e a book from the library to y our own
room without requesting permission to borrow it When i t .

is lent y ou shou l d take every care that i t sustains n o inj ury

,

while in y our p ossession an d should cover it if necessary

, ,

A guest should endeavour to amuse himse l f as much as

possib l e and n ot be continually dependent on his hosts for
,

entertai nment He shou l d remember that however welcome

.
,

h e ma y be he 15 n ot al ways wanted D u u ng the morning

'

.
,

hours a gentleman visitor who n either shoots reads writes , ,

l etters nor does an y thing but idle about the house and chat
,

with the ladies i s an into l erable nuisance Sooner than be

,
.

come the latter he had better retire t o the billiard room and
,
-

p rac tise cannons by himse l f or preten d a n engagement and ,

wa lk about the n eighbourhood .

“
T hose who receive s taying visi tors as theyy are called , ,

should remember that th e truest hosp it ality is tha t which

p l aces the v isitor most at his e ase an d a ffords him the gr eatest ,

O portunity for enj oym ent T hey should a l so rem ember that
p .

d1 Fferent persons have d i ff erent ideas on the subj ect of enj oy

ment and that the surest way of making a guest happy 1 3 t o
,

fi nd out what gives him p l easure not t o im pose that upon ,

him which 1 5 pleasure to themselves .

A visitor should avoid gi ving un n ecessary trouble to the

servants of the house and shou l d be liberal to them when h e
,

l ea ves .

T he si gnal for retiring t o rest is generall y given b y th e

appearance of the servant with wine water and biscuits , , ,

where a late dinn er -hour is observed and suppers are no t the

custom T his is the last refreshment of the evening and the
.
,

vis itor will do we l l to rise and wish good night shortl y after -

i t ha s b een parta k en of b y the famil y .

X III .
—GENER AL HINTS .

In ent erin g a m orning e xh ibition , or ublic room, whe re

lad i es are present, the g entl eman should ift his hat .

—2
5
ts E TI Q(IE TTE FOR GEN TL E/WEN .

I n going upstairs the gentleman should precede the lady ;

in going down h e sho uld follo w her
, .

I f you accompany ladies to a theatre or concert -room pre ,

c ed e them to clear the wa y and secure th eir seats .

D o n ot frequently rep eat the name of the p erson with

whom y ou are conversing I t implies either the extreme o f
.

Iza u tcu r or famil iarity W e have already cautioned y ou

.

against the repetition of titles D eference can a l ways be .

better expressed in the voice manner an d countenan ce than , ,

i n any forms of words .

If when you are wa l king with a lady in an y crowded thorough

fare y ou are obliged to proceed singly a l wa ys precede her , .

Always give the lad y the wall ; by doing so you i nterpose

y our own p erson between her and the passers by and assign ,

her the cleanes t part of the pavement

At public balls theatres & c a gentleman shou
.

ld never
,

permit the lad y to pay for refreshments vehicles and so forth

.
,

, , .

If she insists on repaying him afterwards he must of course ,

d efer t o her wishes .

Never spea k of absent persons b y only their christian or

surnames ; but alwa y s as M r or M rs Abov e. .

all n ever nam e an y body b y th e fi rst letter of his name

, .

M arried people are sometimes gu ilt y of this flagrant o ffenc e

’

against taste .

I f you m e smok ing and m ee t a lad y to whom y ou wish to

speak imm ediate l y thr ow away your ci gar
, .

D o not smo k e shortl y before ente1 i ng the presence o f

ladies .

A young man who visits frequentl y at the h ouse of a married

friend may be permi tted to show his sense of the k1 nd ness whic h
h e rece i ves by the gift of a C hristmas or New Year s vol ume ’

t o the wife or daug hter of his entertainer The presentation .

of E lrerm es is now carried to a ruinous and ludicrous heigh t

among our French n eighbours but i t should be remembered
that without either ostentation or fo ll y a gift ough t t o be
, ,

worth o ff ering I t is better to give n othing than too litt l e

. .

On the o ther hand mere costliness d oes not constitute the

,

soul of a present ; on the contrary i t has the commer ,

cial and unflatteri ng e ffect of repayment for valu e received .

A gif t should be precious for something better than its

price I t ma y have been brought by the giver from som e
.

far or famous place it ma y be unique in its workmanship ;

,

i t ma y be valuable onl y from association with some gtea t m a n

or strange event Autographi c papers fore ign c uriositi es
.
, ,

and the li k e, are elcga nt gifts An author ma y o ffer his .

70 E TI Q UE TTE FOR GE NTLEME M

a foreigner his nam e in full as M onsie ur de

G ive ,

never as M onsieur o nly I n speaking of him give

.
,

title if he has one

,
Foreign noblemen are addres sed viva
.

voce as M ons ieur .I n speaking of a foreign n obleman before

his fac e say M ons ieur le C omte or M ons ieur le M arquis
, , . In
his absen ce sa y M onsieur le C omte de V ign y
, .

C onverse with a foreigner in his own langu age If not

.

co mpetent t o do so, ap ologiz e, and beg p ermi ss i on to

Engl ish .
 fl ai l fi ni br .

I — Ho w. T O o a ca m sa A BAL L .

A s th e num ber of guests at a dinner -part y is regulated by

the siz e of the table s o shoul d the number of i nvi tations to
,

a ball be limited by the prop ortions of the ball mo m A -

.

prudent hostess will alway s invite a few more guests tha n she
rea ll y desires to entertain in the certainty that there will be
,

some deserters when the appointed evening comes round ; but

she wi ll at the sam e time remember that to overcrowd her
room is to spo il the pleasure of those who l ove danci ng an d ,

that a p arty of this kind when too numerous l y attended is as

great a fai l ure as one at which too few are present .

“
A roo m which is n early square yet a l itt l e longer than i t is
,

broad will be found the m ost favourable for a ball

, I t ad .

m its of two quadrille parties or two roun d dances at th e

, ,

same time In a perfec t l y square room thi s arrangement is

.

not so practicable or ple asant A ve ry l ong and narrow room

.

is obviously of the worst sha p e for the p urpose of danc ing,

and is fi t only for quadrilles and country dances .

Th e top of the ba ll room is the part nearest the orchestra

-
.

In a private room the top is where i t would be if the room

,

were a d ini ng room

- I t is generally at the farthest
. int fro m
the door D ancers should be careful to ascert ain t e top of
.

the r o om before tak ing their places as the top couples always ,

lead the dances .

A good floor is of the las t importance in a ball roo m I n - .

a p rivate house nothing can be better than a sm o oth well

, ,

stretched holl a nd with t he carpet beneath

,
. .

A bundance of light an d free vent ilation are indispensa bl e

t o the spirits and comfort of the dancers .

Go o d m usi c is as n ecessary to t he prospe rity of a b all as

72 B ALL -R OOM GUIDE .

go od wine t o th e excellence of a dinn er No hos t e ss sh oul d .

tax her friends for this part of the ent ertainm en t I t i s the .

m ost inj udicious economy imaginable L adies wh o wou l d .

prefer to d ance are tied t o the pian oforte an d as few ama

teu rs have been trained i n th e art of p l aying dance music
with that stri ct attention to tim e and accent which is abso
lutely n ecessary to th e comfort of the dancers a tota l an d ,

gen eral discontent is sure to be the resu l t T o p l ay d anc e .

music throroughly we l l is a branch of the art wh ich requires

c onsiderab l e practice I t is as different from every other
.

kind of p l aying as whale fishi ng i s from fly fishing T hose .

wh o give private ba ll s wi ll do we l l ever to bear this in m ind ,

a nd to provide s k illed musicians for the evening Fo r a .

sma l l party a piano an d cornopean mak e a very pleasant

,

c ombinatio n Urrle ss where several instr uments are engaged

.
’

we do not recommend the introduction of the vio l in altho ugh

i n some respects the finest of a l l solo instrum ents i t is apt t o ,

sound thin and shri ll when emp l oyed on mere i nexpressive

dance tunes and p l ayed b y a m ere dance player
, .

I nvitations to a ba ll should be issued in the nam e of th e

‘

lady of the house ; and written on smal l n ote paper of th e

best quality El egant printed forms some of them p rinte d
_

.
,

in gold or silver are to be had at eve 1y station er s by those

,
’

who prefer them T he paper may be g i l t edged but not

‘

-
.
,

coloured The sealing wax used should be of some delicate

.
-

hue .

An invi tation to a ball should be sent out at l east ten days

before the evening appoint ed A fortnight three weeks and .
, ,

even a month may be al lowed in the way of notice .

No t more than two or three days should be permitt ed to

elapse before you reply to an invitation of this kind T he .

rep l y should always be addressed to the l ady of the house ,

and s hould be couched in the same person as th e invitation .

Th e fo l lowing are the forms genera lly in use

M rs M ol y ne ux
. re qu e ts the ho no ur o f C a pt i n Ham il ton s company
a
’

at an evening party , o n I\ o nd y M a ch th e n th i nst a nt

a ,
r
’

D a ncing wi ll degr n t Nin:

'
’
a o clo ck .

Thursday , M arch xst .

C aptai n Ham i lt n
o l
has m u ch p e a sure in accepti ng M rs M o ly ne ux e ’

lit invitati n f
.

M o nday eveni ng, M arch the n th i nst a nt

‘

po e o or .

Fri d a y , Ma rch a nd .

”
T he old form of presenting compliments is no w out o f
& s h ion .

I f M rs M ol neu . y x writes to Captain Hamilton in the fi rs t

 R OOM GUID E
B AL L - .
73
“M ”
person as
, y dear he is b ound i n e t ique t te to repl y
Sir,
”
M y dear M adam .

T he lad y who gives a ball " should endeavour to secure an r

equa l number of dancers of both se x es Many private par .

t ies are spoiled by th e preponderanc e of y oung ladies som e ,

of whom never get partners at all unless the y dance with ,

ea ch other .

A room should in all cases be provided for the a cco mm o

d ation of th e ladies I n this room there ought to be sever al
.

looking gl asses ; attendants t o assist the fair v isitors in the

-

arrangement of their hai r and dress ; and some place i n

which the cloaks and shawls can be laid in order and foun d ,

at a m oment s n otice I t is well to a ffi x tickets to the cloaks

’
.
,

giving a dup l icate at the same ti me t o each lad y as at the ,

publ ic theatres and concert -rooms Needles and thread .

should also be at hand to repair an y little accident incurred

,

i n dancing .

Another room should be devoted to refreshments and ,

k ept amply supplied with co ffee lemonade ices wine an d , , ,

biscuits during the evening W here this cannot be arranged .

,

the refreshments shou l d be handed round between the dances .

T he question of supper is one which so entirely depends

on the m eans of those who give a bal l or even ing party that ,

very little can be said upon it in a treatise of this description .

W here mone y is n o obj ect it is of course always preferab l e

'

,
“
to have the who l e supper with all appliances and m eans
,

t o boot sen t i n from some first rate house I t spares all

,
-
.

trouble whether to the entertainers or their servants and ,

re l ieves the hostess of every anxiety Where c ircumstanc es .

render such a course imprudent we would on l y observe that ,

a home provided su pper however simple should be good of

-
, ,

its k ind and abundant i n quan tity D ancers are general l y

, .

hungry people and feel themselves much aggriev ed if th e

,

supp l y of sandwiches proves unequal to the demand Great .

inconve nience is often experienced by the di ffi culty of pro

curing ca ns at the clos e of an evening party G entlemen .

who have been dancing and are unprepared for walk ing , ,

obj ect to go home on foot or seek vehic l es for their wives ,

and daughters Femal e servants who have been i n attend

.

ance upon the visitors during a whol e evening ought not t o

be sent out If even men servants are kept they may fi nd
.
-
,

it di ffi cult to procure as man y cabs as are n ecessary The .

It wi ll be u nde rsto o d tha t we use the word ball to signify

vat e party where ther e is danci ng as well as a pu bl i c ball
, , .
74 BA LL -R O OM G UIDE .

b es t thing tha t th e giver of a p rivate ball can do und er these

circumstances is to engage a policeman wi th a l antern to
,

attend on the pavemen t during the ev ening a nd to give ,

n oti ce during the m orning a t a n eighbo uring cab st and so as -

,

t o ensure a s uffi cient n umber of vehicl es at the time wh en

the y are lik el y to be r equir ed .

IL — BA L L-R OOM T o rt a rra

' '
.

L A DIES.

The sty le of a lady s dres is a matter so entir el y d ependent

’

on age m eans and fashi on that we can o ffer but li ttle advice
, ,

u pon i t Fashion is so variable that statements whi ch are

.
,

tru e of it t o d a y ma y be fal se a m on th hence R es pecti ng .

n o insti tu t ion of mode rn s o ciet y is i t so diffi cult t o p ronounc e

hal f a dozen p ermanen t ru l es .

W e m ay perhaps be permitted to suggest th e followi ng

l eadi ng principles ; but we do so with d ifli dence R ich .

co l ours harmoni ze wi th rich brunette complexions an d d ar k

hair D elicate co l ours a re the most suitab l e for deli ca te an d
'

fragile sty l es o f beauty V ery young ladies are n ever so

.

su itab l y attired as in white L adies who dance should wear .

dresses of light and diaphanous materia l s such as t ulle , ,

ga uz e crape n et & c over co l oured si l k sli j 5 S ilk dresses

A married lady who dances
. .
, , , ,

are n ot su itable for dancing .

on l y a few quadri l les may wear a decal/rte? sil k dress with

propri ety .

V e ry stout pers ons should never we a r wh ite I t has the .

e ffect of adding to the bulk of the figure .

B lac k and scarlet or blac k and violet are worn in mourn

, ,

ing .

A lad y in deep m ou rn ing should not dance at all .

However fashionab l e i t may be t o w ear very lon dress es

those ladies who go t o a ball wi th the inten tion ogdancing
,

an d enj oying the dance shou l d cause their dr esses to be made

,

short enough to clear the ground W e would ask them whether

i t is n ot bet ter t o accept this slight deviation from an absurd
fashion than t o app ear for three parts of th e evening in
,

a torn and pinn ed -up ski rt P

N Vell made shoes whatever their colour or m a terial and
-
, ,

faultless gloves, are in disp ensabl e to the effect of a ball -roo m

to il ette .
 B aLL -R OOM GUI D E .
75
M uch jevi ellery is ou t of place i n a ball -ro om
r
. B eautiful
fl owers whether n atural or arti fic ial are the loveli es t orna
, ,

ments that a lad y can wea r on th es e occasions .

G ENT L EM EN.

A blac k sui t thi n enamelled boots 0 white n eck cl oth and

, , .
,

white or deli cate grey gloves are the chi ef points of a gen tl e ,

man s ball -room toi l ette He may wear an embroidered shirt

’
.

and his waistcoat may be of silk W hite waistcoats are n o .

longer fashi onabl e M uch displa y of j ewe l lery is no proof of

.

good t as te A handsom e wat ch -chain wi th perhaps th e ad

.
, , ,

d iti on of a few cost ly trifl es suspend ed to i t and a set of shi rt , s

s tuds are th e on l y a do m m ents of this k ind that a gentleman

,

should wear T he studs shoul d be s mall but good "t

.
, .

A gent l eman s dress is n ecessari l y so simple that i t adm it s

’

of n o compromise in point of quality and sty l e The material .

.

should be the be st that money can p rocure and the fashion ,

unexceptionable So much of the outward man depends on

.

his tai l or that we would urge n o gentlem an to econo mise in

,

t hi s matter .

III .
-
ET 1 QUETT E o r T HE BAL L

On enter ing the ball room the v isitor shou l d at once see k
-
,

the lady of the house and pay his respects to her Having , .

done th is he m ay exchange salutations wi th such friends and

,

acquaintanc es as may be in the room .

I f the ba ll be a public one and a gentleman desires t o d ance ,

w ith an y lady to whom he is a stranger he mus t appl y to the ,

m as te r of the cer em onies for an introduction .

E ven in private balls no gentleman can i nvite a lady t o ,

d ance without a previo us introduction This introduction .

should be effec ted through the lad y of the house or a mem ,

ber of her fam ily .

No lady shoul d accept an i nvitation to dance from a gentle

man t o whom she has not been in troduced In cas e an y gen .

tlem an shou l d commit the error of so inviting her she should ,

n ot e x cuse herself on the plea of a previous engagem en t, or o f

Se e “Etiqu ette fo r Ge nt em en Se c V I I
”
l .

l
, .

E ti quette fo r L a di es, a nd Eti qu ett e for Gent emen, Sec

i
"
Se e .

v .
 76 BA LL-R O OM GUIDE .

fatig ue as to do so w o uld impl y that she did n ot herself a tta ch

,

due importance to th e n ec essary ce remony of in troduction Her .

bes t rep l y woul d be to the e ff ec t tha t she wou l d ha ve much

pleasure in accepting his invita tion if he would procure an in ,

tro d uctio n to her T his ob se rv ation may be t a ken as apply

.

ing on l y to pub l ic ball s At a private party th e host and hos

.

tess are su ffi cient guarantees for the respectabi li ty of their

gues ts and al though a gen tl eman would show a sing u la r
,

w ant of kn owled ge of the l aws of society in acting as we hav e

su ppos ed the lady wh o should rep l y to h im as if he w ere
,

merely an impert in en t stranger in a pub li c as emb l y room s -

,

would be imp l ying an affront to her ente rta in ers T he m ere .

fact of be ing asse mbled togeth er under the roof of a mutual

fri end is in i ts elf a k in d of general in tr oduction of the gu es ts
,

to each other .

An introduction gi ven for the m ere pur pose of enabling a

lady an d gen tlem an to go through a dan ce t oge ther do es not ,

constitute an acquain tanc eship Th e lady is at liberty to pass

.

th e gentl eman in th e park the n ext day wi th out recogn ition .

No entlem a n shou l d venture t o bo w to a la dy upon the

S UC DgS I of a ball room in troducti on
- un l ess sh e does hi m the ,

honour to recog ni z e him fi rst If he commits this so l ecism he

.

mus t not be surp ris ed to find tha t she does n ot ret urn his salu
ta l ion
.

No gen tl eman should accep t an i nvitation to a ball if h e

d oes n ot d ance When ladi es are present who wou l d be
.

plea s ed to receive an i nvitation those gen t l eman wh o hold ,

themselves aloof are gu ilty not only of a negative bu t a posi

, ,

t ive act of n eglect .

T o attempt to dan ce wi thout a k nowledge of da n cing is not

only to make on e s se lf ridiculous but one s partn er also No
’
,
’
.

lady or gentlema n has the right to place a p artner i n this ah

surd positi on .

N ever forget a ba ll -roo m engagemen t T o do so is to com .

~

mi t an unpard onab l e o ffence aga ins t go o d breed ing .

It is not nec essa ry that a lady or gentleman should be a c

qua inted wi th the steps in order to walk gracefully and eas ily
,

through a quadrill e A n easy carriage and a know l edge of th e

.

figure is all that is requisite A ro und dance however shoul d

.
, ,

on no accoun t be a ttemped without a th orough knowled ge of

th e steps an d som e p revious practice
, .

N0 pe r on who has not a good car for t ime and t un e n eed

s

hope to dan ce we l l .

A t the conclusion of a dance the gen tl em an bo ws to his ,

partn er and either prom enad es wi th h er roun d the room, or

,
73 BA LL -R O OM GUIDE .

that her other guests ma y not suppose y ou are doing so ; b u t

d o not seek her out for that p urpose .

N ever be seen without gloves in a ball room though i t were -

,

o nly for a few m oments T hose who dance much and are
.

particularly soigné in matters relating t o the toilette take a ,

s econd pair of g l oves to replace the first when soiled .

A thoughtful hostess wi ll never introduce a ba d dancer to a

good one becaus e she has no right t o punish one frien d in
,

order to oblige another .

I t is n ot customary for married p ersons to dance together in

soc iet y .

IV — T HE
. Q UA D R ILL E .

The Quadrille is the most univers al as i t is certainl y , the

most s ociable of all fashionable dances I t admits of p l easan t
, .

conversation frequen t in terchange of partners and is adapte d

, ,

t o every T he yo ung or old th e po nde ro uspa tcrf a mzlza s

’ ’

or his sy l filike daughter may wi th equal propriet y tak e part

g
,

i n its eas y and elegan t figures E ven an occasional b l under .

i s of less cons equence in this dance than in many others for .

e ach pers onage is in some degree free as t o his own m ove

m ents n ot being compelled by the continua l embrace of his
,

partner to dance either better or worse than he ma y find con

venie nt .

Pe ople n ow generall y wal k through a quadrille Nothi ng .

more than a perfect k nowledge of the fi gure a gr aceful demean ,

our and a correct ear for th e tim e of the music are requisi te
,

to enable an y one to tak e a creditab l e part i n this dance .

S teps are quite gon e out of fashion : even the c/i a rse‘ has been
given up for some tim e past .

A quadrille must always consist of fi ve parts I f a varia .

t ion be made in the fourth figure by th e substitution of Pa : ,

tora le for T remire th e latter m ust then b e omitted ; or vice

,

w rrd . As soon as a gent l eman has engaged his partner for

the quad rille he shou l d endeavour to secure as hi s m s cr m s
’ ’ ’

- -
,

some friend or acquaintance a nd should then lead his partne r

t o the top of the qua drille provided that p ost of honour be
,

still vacan t He will p l ace the l ad y a l ways at his right hand

. .

Quadril l e music is di vided into eight bars for each part of

the figure ; two steps should be taken in every bar ; ever y
m ovement thus invariabl y cons ists of eight or of four steps .

I t is well not to learn too man y n ew figures the memor y

is liabl e t o be co me confused amongs t them ; b esides which , it
 B ALL -R O OM G UI DE .
79

is doubt ful whether y our partn er or y our viral m} is as ,

-
,

learn ed in the m atter as y ou rself: M as ters are e x tremely fon d

of invent ing an d teaching new figures ; but y ou wi ll do we l l to
confine your atten tion to a few simple and universally receive d
se ts which y ou will find quite su fficient for y our pu rpos e
, We .

begin wi th th e oldest and most common th e ,

FI R ST SET OF QUADR ILL ES.

gam ma
J us t J imm y .

The cou les at th e top and bottom of th e quadrille cross t o

p
e ach o ther 5 places in eight steps occup y ing four bars of th e ,

time ; then re cross im m ediate l y to their own plac es which

-
,

complet e s the m ovemen t of e ight bars T his is ca l le d the .

T he gent l eman always k eeps to the ri ght of

mir d mlf lady in cro ss ing thus placing her inside
- -
, .

S et to partners or bala nces turn your p artn ers ( This

, .

occupi es th e second eight bars ) L adi es chain or Mai ne ales .

, ,

( E ight bars m ore ) E ach coup l e cr os ses to opposite

.

couple s lace gentlem an giving his h and to his partner this

’
,

i s called alf prom enade C ouples recross righ t and left to

-
.

their places without giving hands which completes an other

, ,

e ight ba rs and ends the figure

, .

Th e side coupl es repeat what the top and bottom couples

have don e .

gim S u nni) ( e —E t
m hi c .

The ladi es in all the top couples and their vi e d-Uzi: gentle ,

m en advance four steps an d retire the same repeating this

, , ,

m ovemen t once aga in whi ch makes the first eigh t ba rs

,
.

’
T o p ladies an d mit-d m: gentlemen cr o ss t o each other s
’

places advance four steps retreat ditto cross back towards

partn ers who set t o th em as t hfiy advance ; turn pa rtn ers ;
,

which ends first half of figure .

S econd ladies and top mind vis gentlemen execute the same -

movements T h en side couples begin the privilege of com

. .
,

me ncem ent being conferred on those ladies who stand at the

rig/i t of the top couples .

T hi s figure is sometimes performed in a differen t mann er ,

known as dou ble L E té I ns tead of th e top l ady an d vie d mk

’ -
.

entle ma n advancing alone the y a dvan ce wi th p artners join

g ,

i ng hands ; cross and return as in th e single figure T his ,

.

va riati onis, however, so mew hat out of vogue, ex cept ( as will

80 BALL -R O OM G UIDE .

prese ntl y be seen ) in the las t fi gure of th e quadrille where it ,

is sti ll fr equently introduced .

fl hixh J inan — £a 90 11 12 . .

’
To plady and w m gentleman cross to each oth er s
-a a

laces gi ving righ t han d in pass i ng cross ba ck agai n with

p
,

eft hand ( Eighg t bars ) Th e two couples form i n a l ine

. .
,

and j oin hands the l eft hand of one hold ing th e right han d of
,

his or her neigh bour so that each fac es di ff erent ways in

,

this po sition a l l four ba la nces then half promenade with ,

partn er to O pposite place top lady and m s a z zs gentleman

'
- -

advance four steps and ret ire d itto ( zud eight bars ) B oth . .

top and bottom couples advance together and retire th e ,

same ; then re cross righ t an d left to places ( 3rd eight

- .

ba rs ) S econd lad y and first oppo site gentleman rep eat

.

figure Side coupl es re peat ob serv ing sam e rule for com
.
,

mencement as in L E te
’ ’

To p couples j o inh ands advance four steps and retrea t ,

ditto advance aga in gen tlem

. an leaving lady at left hand of
,

m -a gentleman and ret i ring alone , ( rst eight bars ) . .

T wo ladi es advance cross ing to op osite sid e ; gen tleman

p ,

advances t o meet his par tner vis a U1 : lady returns to hers ,

-
.

( and eight bars ) B a a nces turn partners t o p l aces ( 3rd

’
.
, .

eigh t bars ) Second coupl e p erforms sa me fi gure , side

.

couples repeat as before .

I f L a Pas/ or a le be preferred i t will be p erform ed thus ,

T o p couple adva nce and retreat advance gentleman l eading ,

lady to l eft hand of wind Uzi: gentleman ; h e advances wi th -

both ladies four steps retr eating ditto ; again a dvancing he

, ,

lea ves both ladi es with fi rs t gentleman retreating alone top ,

gen tl eman and both ladi es ad van ce an d retreat again a d ,

vance join ing h ands i n circle go h alf ro und half promenade

, , ,

t o opposite places then return right an d left to their o wn

,

Second couples an d side coupl es repe at as before .

g r
a nstg
i m a — 3
3 m u .

Begi n wi th th e gr a nd r and or gr eat round ; that is the

.
,

whol e quadrill e fi rst and second couples and sides j oin hands
L E tl is no w
’
a ll round advan ce four steps and retreat ditto
, , .

s ometim es introduced the g ra nd rand be ing repea t ed be twe en

,
 BAL b R OOM G UIDE . 8:

e ach division of the figure But it gives a grea t er varie ty an d . .

brio to the quadri ll e if a fter the first gra nd rand the follow
, ,

i ng figu re be perform ed the ga la) step be ing used throughout , .

E ach gentleman ( at top and bo ttom couples ) takes h is lad y

round th e wai st as for the ga lop advance four steps retreat
, ,

ditto advance again cross t o opposite p l aces ; advan ce re

, , ,

treat re cross to own p l aces L adies chain half promenade

,
- .

across ha l f right and left to p l aces gr a nd r and Side .

couples repeat figure Gr a nd r and between each division and

.

at the concl usion Bo w to y our partn ers , and conduc t y our

.

lad y to sea t .

V .
— THE C AL EDONIANs .

Th is quadrille has within the l as t fe w y ears b ecom e m ore

,

fashionable than for merl y But it is not so frequent l y danc ed

‘

as the L ancers sti ll less as the First Set of Quadrill es Each

, .

set can consist only of eight coup l es di ffering in this respec t ,

from the simple quadri ll e which admits of an indefinit e ,

numbe r of coup l es .

1 5 ! { figu ra — T o p and opposite couples hands across th e n

back again ; ba la nces and t urn partners ; cka zne dc: da me:
’

ha l f prom enade across ha l f right and l eft to places .

z u d fi gu re — T o p gentleman advances and retreats t wice .

B a la ncez to corn ers and turn each l ady passing to her nex t ,

neighbour s p l ace
’
Having changed you r partner a l l pro
.
,

m en ade quite round S econd third and fourth gentlem an

.
, ,

repeat same figure thus all have regained the ir places .

— T o lad y and m s cb-z/zs gentleman adv a nce and

’ ' '

3 rd fi gu re p
-

retreat twice .

T o p coup l e j oin hands an d cross over ; opposite coupl e

c ross l ik ewise separate ly al l o wing top coup l e t o pass be
, ,

t ween them ; then top couple re cross to p l aces separately -

,

leaving the second couple ( who re-cross with j oined hands )

inside .

B a la ncez to corn ers and turn y our n eighbour s partner

’

back to places All four couples j oining hands in circ l e ad

.
, ,

v ance and retreat twice Same figure repeated b y se cond .

and side couples

lad y and ma m gentleman advanc e
.

4 M Fi g u — To
four steps ; second p
r e
ad y and her vis -d a is then do the sam e ;
ea ch couple turns part n e r ba c k to places L adies in all fou r .

76
83 BALL -R OOM GUID E.

c oupl es m ove four ste ps to th e right e ach ta king h er n eigh ,

bour s pl ace ; gentlem en then m ove four steps t o the left,

’

e ach i n to ne xt n eighbo ur
’
s pla ce L adies aga in to th e ri ght .

gentl em en agai n t o the left Prom enade roun d turn par tners
.
,

to place s .S econ d and side coup l es repe at in su cces si on .

f i re — Fir st couple prome ad e roun d i ns id e th

5 11i gu n e
quadrill e Fo ur ladi es advan ce co urtes y to e ach other and
.
, ,

re tire ; four gen tl em en ad van ce bow and re tire B ala nces , , .

and turn partn ers G ran d chain half wa y roun d

. All pro .

m enade to places an d turn p artn ers ,

All ( Ita s ca m i ner . ,

ladies right gentlem en left ( behin d th ei r partn ers ) and ba ck

, ,

agai n to places S econd an d side cou ples repeat as b efor e

. .

Promenade all ro und for fi na le .

VI — T 1m L ancers
. .

The La n cersQ uadrille is perha ps the m ost graceful and

ed of an y W i thi n th e las t few years i t has bec ome a
.

great favourite in fas hi onable c ircl es probabl y o wing to i ts ,

revival at the sta te ba lls of Her M aj es ty I t admi ts of much .

ski ll and elegan ce in e x ecu ting i ts q u i ck an d vari ed figures a ,

c orrec t acquai n tan ce wi th which is absolut el y requi site to all

who tak e par t in it Unli k e the comm on q uadrille the
.
,

L an cers must be da n ced by four co upl es o nly in each se t ;

th ough o f course th ere ca n be man y se ts d ancing at th e sam e
ti me The n umber be i ng so li mited one awkward or ign oran t
.
,

person confus es th e who l e se t ; ther efore i t is indis pensable ,

that every one who dances in thi s qua drill e should have a
thoroug h mas tery of i ts gra ceful in tri ca ci es W e have o h .

served tha t o f late i t has becom e the fas h ion to subs ti tute new
tun es for the old w ell kn own mus ic of the L anc ers Q uadri ll e
-
.

W e m nno t cons ider this an improvem en t T he old simpl e .

m elodi es are pe culi arly fi tted to th e sp rightly j oyous cha ,

racter of the dance ; whi ch is more than ca n be s aid for any o f

the m od ern subs titut es \Vh en these are us ed th e L an cers in
.
, ,

o ur opini on loses i ts individuality an d sp ir it be co min

alm ost lik e a comm on quadr ille \Ve should be hea rtily glad
, ,

to see th e old tun es res tored once for all to thei r rightful
sup remacy .

The se ts of four coupl es top, O ppos ite an d

‘

been th e da nce begins as fo llo ws z

a rranged,
u i E gan — First la d and opposite gentl eman adv y
ance
 B AL L -R OOM GUIDE . 83

and ret rea t ; adv ance again j oin ing their hands ; round
fi
,

ea ch other an d back to plac es ( xst eight bars ) co uple .

j oin h ands, and cross opp os i te couple crossing at the sam e

,

time se a ra tely outs ide them ; th e sam e revers ed back to

g
, , ,

pla ces nd eight bars ) All the couples ba la ncez to corners

.

each gentleman turns his n eighbour s partn er bac k to places ’

.

( 3rd eigh t bars ) Seco nd coup l e repeat figure from beginnin g ;

.

after them side couples those who stand to th e right of to p

,

c uple hav ing always the priorit y as i n the common quad

rlq
,

le.

2 nd Figu re — First couple a dva nce and re t reat gentleman ,

’
h old ing lady s left hand ; advance again ; gentleman leaves
his partner i n the cen tre of the quadri ll e an d retires to lace , .

( xst eight bars ) B a la nces to each other and tu rn t o p aces

. .

( zud e i ght ba rs ) S ide couples j oin firs t and second coup l es

.
.

forming a line of fo ur on either side Each line advances four .

ste ps retreats ditto then advances again ea ch gentle man te

, ,

cla i ming his partner and all turn t o places S econd and sid e
, .

couples repeat figure in succession .

d F — First lady advances four steps alone and

3 r igu re ,

st ops vie d vi: gentleman does the same ; first lad y retir es
-
,

fac ing gentleman, to whom she mak es a slow profound

court esy ( The cou rtesy must occup y a bar or two of the
.

m us ic ; an d as if made with grace and dignit y i t is most:

, ,

e ffective we would recommend ladies to practise i t carefu ll y

,

b efore hand ) The gentleman at the same t ime bows and re

.

tires ( tst eight bars ) All four ladies advance t o centre

. .
,

give right han ds across to each other ( which is called the

double and left han d to win d mit gentl eman then back -

again left h ands across in th e m iddle an d righ t hands to

, ,

partners back to p l aces

, ( and eight bars ) Second and
. .

side couples rep eat fi gure from commencement .

A more recent fashion for dancing this figure is as follows

-I ns tead of one lady advanc ing at fi rst all four advance , ,

and courtesy to each other ; then turn and co urtes y to th eir

partn ers L adies do the moulznet in the centre that is give
'

.
,

righ t hands across to each other and ha lf round left hands ,

back aga in and return to places G entlemen meantime all

,
.

move -round outside th e ladies till each has regained his ,

place Figure as usual repeated four times bu t the secon d

.
, ,

an d fourth time th e gentlemen advance instead of t he lad i es ,

and bow fi rst to ea ch oth er then to their p artners continu

, ,

ing as be fore through the rest of th e figure .

Figure — T o p gentleman tak ing par tner s left hand

’
, ,

leads her to the cou pl e on t heir ri ght, to whom th e y bo w and

34 BA LL-RO OM G UIDE .

c ourt es y ( which civilit y must b e m et with th e l i ke ac know

l edgment ) then cross quickly t o fourth couple and do the
, ,

same ( l st eight bars ) All four couples M as sey croisez right

. . .

and left ( gentleman in variab l y passing behind his partn er )

then turn hands ( fou r dc: m a ins) back to places ( 2 md eigh t .

bars ) First and opposite coup l es right an d le ft across and

.

ba ck again to places ( 3rd eigh t b ars ) Second and sides

. .

bpea t as usu al .

Figu re — T his figure commences with the music Each .

coup l e should stan d ready the gentlem an facing his partner , ,

h is right h an d h o l ding hers If every one does n ot start .

d irect l y the music begins and does n ot observe strict t im e ,

throughout this somewhat int ricate figure becomes hope

,

l ess l y embarrasse d but when well danced i t is th e pretties t

, ,

of the set I t commences with the g ra na e c/za zm al l rou nd ’

'

e ach gent l eman giving his right han d to his partn er at start
i ng his left to the n ext lady then h is right again and so al l
, , ,

round ti ll all have return ed t o their places ( T his oc cu pies

, .

sixteen bars of the music ) First couple promenade ins ide .

fi gure returning to p laces with their backs turned to opposit e

,

c oup l e T he side couple on thei r right fa ll s in i mm ediatel y

.

behind them ; the four th c oup l e foll ows the s ec ond couple ,

remaining in th eir p l aces A doubl e line is thus formed .

ladies on one side and gent l emen on th e other ( 3rd eight .

bars ) All cbarrez cr ozlrez ladies left gentlemen right beh i nd

.
, , ,

partn ers F irst lady leads off tur ning sharp l y round to th e
.
,

right ; fi rst gentleman does th e same to th e left meeting at ,

the bottom of the quadri ll e and promenad e back t o p l aces , .

All th e ladi es fol l ow firs t lady al l the gentlem en foll ow fi rs t

gen tl eman ; and as each meets his partner at the bottom o : f

th e figure they touch h ands then fa ll back i n two lines

, ,

ladi es on on e side gen tlemen on the other— facing each other

, .

( 4 th eight bars ) Four l adies j oin hands advance and re

.
,

treat ; four gentlemen ditto at the sa me time ; then each

tu rns his partn er to p l aces ( sth eight bars ) Gra na e c/ mine . .
’

a g ain S econd and side coup l es repeat the whole figure in

.

succession each coup l e taking i ts tu rn to lead o ff as the first

, ,

had don e Gra nd: ( baffl e be tween each fi g ur e and in co n

.

elus ion .
86 B A LL -R O OM GUI DE .

o ccup ies j us t half the time of the old quadrille It m akes .

a n agre eabl e varie t y in th e movements of the da nce , and is

e asily l earn t I t r equ ires four couples
. .

i — gains t”
J rs t J n
i a n a .

Firs t and second coupl es righ t and left, whils t side coupl es
d ance th e c/la zne A ngla ise outs ide them All four C ouples set
'

t o artners and turn them Fo ur ladies form ladies chain ’

or p
.
,

ands across i n th e m iddle of the fi gure giving fi rst right ,

hands an d then left back to places Half prom enade fi rst

, , .
,

a nd secon d couples d o d ra in: A ug/mire whil e side couples d o ,

g r a nd c/ mzne round them T his leaves all in their right

’

places, an d ends figure .

§ rroub g iants
'

Firstlad y and lad y on her righ t hand per form th e figure

, ,

with their vis d mir gentlemen as i n common L E te ; taking

- -
,
’ '

care when they cross to m ake a semicircle to the left

, ,
.

S econ d c ouple and second s ide coupl e repeat figure , as in

‘ ’
c ommon L E c t .

‘
i hirh g imme
E £0 1113 .

T o p ladyan d ms-d-ws gen tleman lad y at her right and

’ ’

, ,

h er opposite gen tlem an p erform figure at the sam e t ime set , ,

t ing to each other in two cross l ines O ther c ouples follow .

as us ual .

J fi as to ra lz
o na h . i
J gurrm x
— a .

The fi rs t and opposite couples dance the figure no t with ,

e ach other but with the coup l es t o their right

, Th e latter do .

the sam e w ith fi rst and second couples .

t —
gr J n
af s i a n J i na n
Gal opade all
round T o p an d opposite couples galo pad e.

forwards and retreat , A s they retreat sid e coup l es advance

.

and as the y retreat i n their turn fi rst and second couples

, ,

galopade to each others place S id e coup l es the sa me Fi rs t . .

a nd second coup l es advance again side couples the sam e as the

o th ers retreat first and secon d back to places as side coup l es
retreat S ide couples bac k to places D ouble c/ia im dc:
. .

d a mes an d galopade all round

, T hen side couples re pea t .

fi gure as usua l, and ga lop all roun d in conclusion .

 B AL L -R OOM G UIDE . 81

I t is requisite t o k ee correct t ime and s t ep in this

quadrille, which would o t erwise become much confused .

IX — T1 m
. P OL KA .

The origin of this onc e celebrated dance is di ffi cul t t o ascera

tain. I t is believed b y some to be of great antiquity and t o ,

have been brough t into G ermany from the East O thers a ffi rm .

that its origi n is of more recent d ate and its birthplace con ,

s id e ra bly n earer hom e An authority on these matters re

.

m arks I n spite of what th ose p rofessors say wh o proclai m

themselves to have learn t the Po l ka in G ermany or as being ,

indebted for i t t o a Hungarian nobleman w e are far fro m ,

p l acing confidence in their assertions I n our opinion Paris i s .

its birthplace and its true author u ndoubtedly the no w far ?

, , ,

famed M onsieur C ellarius for whom this o ffspring of his genius

,
”
has gained a European celebrit y .

W hatever we may be i nclined to believe with regard to this

disputed ques tion th ere can be n o doubt of the wide spread
,
-

p opulari t y which for man y y ears was enj oyed by the Po l ka .

W hen fi rst introduced in 1 84 3 i t was received with eu

, ,

th usia sm by every capital in E urope and i t e ffected a com

plete revo l ution in th e st yle of da ncin g which had prevai l ed
up to that peri od A brisk lively cli aracter was imparted
.
,

even to the stead y-going quadri ll e the old Va lse d Trozs

'

T amps was pronounced i nsu fferably slo w and its brillian t .

r iva l the Va lse d D e ux Tamps which had b een recent l y i n

, ,

tro duced at once established th e supremacy which it has ever

,

since maintained T he ga lop which had been until this perio d

.
,

only an occ asional dance no w as sumed a prominen t p ost in

,

e ver y bal l room dividing th e honours with the w ise

-
, .

B ut all these dances though modified i n character b y the

,

introduction of the Polka were for a time thrown into the ,

shade b y this n ew claiman t upon publ ic favour I ts popularit y .

was unrival l ed in the annals of dancing R ich and poor .

,

y o ung and o l d grave and gay al l were a l ike smitten by the

, ,

universal Polka mania All fl ocked to tak e lessons in this

.

ne w an d fascinating dance and th e professors of i ts mysteries

fairly di vided pub l ic attention with the members of the Ant i
C orn La w L eague then holding their meetings at D rur y L an e
-
,

T heatre W e wi l l even go so far as to sa y that M essrs Bright

. .

and C o bd en w ere scarcel y mor e an x ious t o d estro y the ve xe

 88 B ALL -R OOM G UID E .

tious Corn L ws than were th ese worthy Polk a -m aniacs t o cre

a

a te co m laws of their o wn, which if more i nnocent were , ,

equall y undesirable .

Fo r many years th e Pol k a m aintained i ts position as the

universal favourite ; but during the las t five or six seasons i ts
, ,

p opularity has slowly but sure l y d eclin ed I t is never danced .

no w in the bal l rooms of the arist ocrac y

- but the m iddle ,

classes have n ot yet qu ite discarded their old friend thou h

g ,

e ven amongst their programmes its nam e rare l y occu rs .

Perhaps no dance a ff ords greater facili ties for the displa y

of ignorance or skill elegance or vu l garity than the Po l ka
, , .

The step is simple and easil y acquired but the method of ,

d ancing it varies a d S ome persons race and rom p

through the dance in a manner fati guing to themselves an d
dangerous to their fe l low dancers O thers ( though this is
- .

m ore rare ) drag their partner list l essly along with a sovereign ,

contempt alike for the requ irements of the time and the spi ri t
o f the music S ome gentlemen ho l d their partn er so tigh t
.

that she is hal f suffocated others hold her s o loosely that she
continua ll y s l ips away from th em All these extremes are .

equal ly obj ectionab l e and defeat the gracefu l intention of the

,

dance It sh ould be pe rformed quiet l y but with sp irit an d

.
, ,

a lway s i n strictti m e The head and shoulders shou l d be k ep t

.

s t ill not j erk ed and turn ed at every step as is the manner of

, ,

som e The feet shou l d g l ide swift l y along the flo o r- n ot hop

.

p ing or j umping as if the boards were red hot - .

Y ou shou l d clasp y our partner lightly but fi rml y round the

waist with your righ t arm .

Your left hand takes her righ t hand but b eware of eleva t
ing your arm and hers i n th e air or holding them out strai ght , ,

which suggests the idea of windmi l ls .

Abo ve all never place y our l eft hand on y our hip or be

,

hind y ou I n the fi rst p l ace y ou thus drag your partner too

. ,

m uch forward which makes her look ungracefu l in the next

, ,

thi s attitude is ”w ar u sed except in c as inos an d i t is almost a n ,

insu l t to introduce i t in a respectable ba ll room - .

L e t th e hand which clasps yo ur partner s fa ll easily b y y ou r

’

side in a natural position and k eep it there Your partner s

, .
’

left hand rests on your right shou l d er ; her right arm is t hrown
a little forward towards your left .

The Polka is danced in t im e There are three steps in .

e ach b ar the fourth beat is always a r est The rhythm of .

the dance ma y be thus indica ted

90 B ALL -R OOM G UIDE .

almos t alwa ys avoid collisions an d a good dancer would con ,

sider h ims elf disgraced if any mishap occurred to a lad y under

his care . K eep a sharp look out and avoid crowded corners , .

S houl d so man y couples be dancing as t o render such cauti on

imposs ible stop at once and do n ot go on until the roo m has
, ,

become som ewhat cleared In a few m inutes others will have

.

paus ed to res t and y ou can then continue Your partner will

, .

b e grateful that y our conside ration has preserved her from the:
d ismal plight in which we hav e seen some ladies emerge fro m
this da nce — their ( af a i rs disordered their dress es torn an d , ,

thei r ch eeks crimson with fatigue and m o rtifica tio n while ,

their indignant glances plainly showed th e anger the y did not

ca re to express in words and which th eir rec k less partner ha d
,

fu l l y deserved A torn dress is sometim es no t the h eaviest

.

p enalty incurred : we have k nown more than on e instance

where ladi es have been la m ed for weeks through th e culpable
carelessness of their partners their tender feet having be en ,

half c rushed beneath some heavy boot in one of thes e awk

ward collision s T his is a severe price to pa y for an evening s
.
’

a musement a nd gentlemen are bound to be cautio us ho w the y

,

i nflic t i t or a nyth ing a pro a ching to i t upon their fair com

, ,

anions L adies on t e other hand will do well to remem

he r that b y le aning heavily upon their par tn er s shoulder
.
, ,
’

dr aggi ng back fro m his encircling arm or otherwis e impe ding

the freedom of his m ovements they m ateria l ly add t o his ,

l abou r and take from his pleasure in the dance T he y should .

endeavour to lean as lightly and give as little trouble as pos

, ,

sible for h owever flattering to the vanit y of the n obler se x

,

m ay be the idea of feminin e dependen ce we question wh eth er ,

the re al ity i n the shape of a dead weight upon their aching

,

arms through out a Pol k a or V als e of twent y minutes duration ’

,

would b e acceptable t o even the most chivalrous amongs t

them .

W e have b een thus mi nu t e in our instruction s beca use they ,

no t onl y apply to the Polka but equa l ly to all ci rcul ar dances

,

where a great number stand up t o da n ce at the sam e tim e .

W e now pass on to the

X - CELL AR rus VALSE,

.

Somet ime s called the M a zourk a th ough generally best known ,

by the name of i ts inventor M of Paris I t was

, . C ellarius, .

imported to Engl and in 1 84 5 , two y ears aft er the int roduc tion
 B ALL -R OOM G UI DE .
9!

of the Pol k a and although it never attained so great a popu

,

larity as i ts pred ecess or i t was favourab ly received and much

, ,

d anced in the b est circles S till it fail ed to ac hieve the de

.

c ided success which might have been reasonab ly ex pect ed from

its elega nce and beaut y P erhaps one reason of thi s d isap
.

pointing result was that man y inefii cient performers attempted

to dance i t before they had m astered its som ewhat diffi cult step ,

and brought i t into disrepute b y their ungraceful e xhibitions .

B ut the grand secret of its partia l fai l ure l ay in the mania for
rapid whirling dances introduced by the Po l ka Whi l e th e
, .

rage for fas t dancing continued the m easured gr ace of the ,

C e lla rius stood n o chance No w that i t has at las t happi l y

.

a bated peo l e are better prepared to appreciate the refined

and quie t c p
,

arm of this real l y beautiful valse T o dance i t .

we l l requires some practice and particu l ar attention must be

p aid to the carriage and position of the figure since no danc e ,

1 5 more thorough ly sp o iled by an awkward st ill, or stooping ,

attitude .

W e procee d to describe the step so far as it may be p o ssi ble ,

to do so i n words bu t we have an uneasy consciousness th a t all

such d escriptions bear a close resemb l ance to those contained
in certain litt l e volumes designed to instruct our fair readers in
the my steries of kn itting n etting and crochet , Slip two , .
,
”
m is s one bring on e forward 85 0 may convey to th e mind of
, ,

the initiat ed a distinct idea of the pattern of a collar ; but are

hard l y satis factory guides to the st ep of a valse W e must .
,

however d o our best though again we wou l d impress upon

,

the r eader the necessit y of seek ing further instruction from a

professor or experienced fri end .

The time of the C ella rius V a l se i s 2 like the common valse ,

but it should be p l ayed much more slowly if d a nced quickly i t ,

becomes an unmean ing success ion of hops and its graceful char ,

a cter is destroyed .

W e desc ri be the step as danced b y the lad y ;for the gentle

,

man it will be the same with the feet reversed ; that is , for
,

right foot read left, and so on .

fi rs t §tzp e .

l st a nd 2 nd bea t — Spring on le ft foot sliding forward right ,

foot at the same time an d immed iately let y our weight rest
,

o n the forward foot T his occupies two beats

. .

rd bea t — S pring on right foot this ends the bar

3 .

2 e ba r 1 st a nd z ud k a r
, t Spring again on right foot an d
-
,

d ide forward left at same time R est on i t a momen t as be .

9: B ALL -R OOM GUI DE .

fore during second beat ; at third beat spring o n it ; which

ends second bar C ontinue sam e step throughout You w ill
. .

p erceive that at the first and thi rd beat of the time y ou

, ,

slightl y resting during th e second beat on the foremost

, , ,

§ tco nb §tru .

l : bea t — Spring on left foot slightl y striking bo th h eels to

ger
°

get .

2 e bea t Slide righ t foot

. to the ri ght bend ing th e k nee , .

3r d bra t — Bring left foot up

to right foot wi th a slight sp ring ,

raising right foot which ends th e fi rst bar .

a nd ba r i s! bea t — S pring aga in on left foot, s tri k ing i t

,
,

w ith h eel of righ t .

2 mz berm— S l ide right foot to the right

’
.

3rd berm— Fa ll on right foot rais i ng left foo t behin d i t , ,

which ends the second bar R eve rse the step by springing .

fi rst on the right foot and sl iding the l eft & c The music
, , .

generally indicates that this step shou l d be repeated three times

to the right which oc cupies th ree bars then r est during the
, ,

fourth bar and return with reverse step to the l eft during the
,

thr ee bars which fo l low resting again at the eighth bar

, .

E bish 5 12 11 .

i s! h at — Spring on left foot and slide , ri gh t foo t to the

righ t .

z ud bea t — R est on right foot .

r d bean— S pring o n right foot , bri nging left u p beh ind i t

3 .

a nd Oa r , 1 st bea t — S pring on right foot , sliding left foot t o

th e left .

z ud Oea t — R est on left foot

. .

3r d OM A Ho p on left foot , bringing right behi nd i t as be

fore C ontinue at p easure
. l .

The first of th e s e three steps is most commonly used i n th e

valse but the second is an agreeab l e change for those who may
have gro wn giddy or weary in doing the figu re m tour / a m t
( circu l ar movement ) .

B e ca refu l not to e xa ggerate th e slight hop at the fi rst and

thi rd bea ts of each bar and to s lid e the foot gracefu lly forward ,
no t merel y to make a step , as some ba d dancers d o .
94 BA L L R O OM GUID E .

R p m — ( Eight bars res t .

) To p c oupl e l ead roun d ia
side the figure ( eight b ars ) ; petzt tour forward an d back ward
'
‘

( eight bars ); advan ce to opposite couple th e entlem an turns ,

half roun d wi thout quitt i ng h is partner an gives his left ,

ha nd to opposite lady ; the tw o ladies j oin hands beh in d

gentleman ( four bars ) i n th is p osition th e thre e advance an d
ret ire ( eight bars ) T he gen tleman passes under the ladies
.
’

a rm s ; all three p ass round to the left with second ste o f ,

C ellarius the opposite lady finish ing in her o wn place

, our
bars ) T he top couple retu rn to pla ces ( four bars ) pen? tour
.

forward ( four bars ) O pposite couple and side couples d o

.

5 111fi gu re — ( Eight ba rs rest ) T o p and bottom coupl es

. .

half right and left ( four bars );pm? {ou r backward ( four bars );
ha lf right and le ft to plac es ( four bars ) petzt tou r back ward
'

( four bars) vis a vis couples han ds roun d to o ppo site places
( four bars ) M i! forward ( four bars ); hands roun d t o
tou r
own p l a c es ( fo ur bars ) ; pm? tour ( four b ars ) ; right an d le ft
( ei ht bars )
Side couples do lik e wise
.

Fi na le — G ran d round all to the left an d then to the righ t

( s ix teen bars ) gran d chain as in the L ancers wi th fi rs t
.
,

, , ,

ste of C ellarius ( sixtee n bars ) B ut if there ar e more than .

e ig t in the qua dril l e the mu sic must b e continued unti l all

,

have regain ed their places .

N B —Music cont in ues during r est

. . .

X IL — THE Po u rs Ma o R K A.

T he s t ‘ of th is dance is as i ts implies a mi xture of the

of i he Po l ka and th e Mazo urka I t i s a favourite
, ,

ste .

dance with th e Parisi ans but has never be en very popular i n

,

E ngland probabl y from the sam e reasons w hich prevented

,

the succ ess of the C ella rius Yet it is a pretty dance and .
,

the step is easily acquired W e recommend i t to the atten .

tion of o ur readers The tim e is and qui ck er than that o f

.

the C ella rius .

G en tl em an t ak es his as in the v als e Fl

artner .

( ai l m e nt W e describe t
. e steps for the gentlem an ; e lady
simp l y rev erses the ord er of the fee t, us ing left foo t for right
throughou t .
 BA LL R O OM GUIDE-
.
95

rst bea t — on right fo ot wi th le ft foo t a littl e raised

R est ,

b ehind and slide l eft foot to th e left

, .

2 nd bea n— S pring on the right foot bringing i t up to wh er e ,

th e l eft foot is and raising the latter in front

, .

d b t — Spring once more on righ t foot passing le ft

3 r ea ,

foot behin d without t ouching the grou nd with i t ; this ends

fi rst bar .

z ud (B ar [ st bea t — Sl ide left foot to the le ft as before

, , .

2 nd ber m — Spring on right foot as before and bring it up , ,

to the p l ace of l eft foot raising l atter at same m omen t

,
.

3 r d h am — Fa l l on the left foot and ra ise th e right foot

,
be hind end of second bar
.
.

B egin third bar with right foo t and continu e as before , .

You turn half round in the first thr ee bea ts, and complete the
circle in the second three .

X I Il — T HE R a no wa ,
. on R EDOVA .

The step of this vals e somewhat resembles tha t of the

C ella rius and is used as we have seen in dancing th e
, , ,

M az o urka Quadrille I t is an elegant valse not so li vely as

.
,

the Polka Maz ourka but if danced i n correct time n ot too

, , ,

sl owly is very graceful and pleasing : T he step is not so

,

di ffi cu l t as that of th e C ellarius it is almost a Pas de B asque ,

with the addition of th e hop I n all thes e dances which .

,
partake of the nat ure of the M az ourk a i t is requisite to m ark ,

distinctly the first and third beats of every bar other wis e th e ,

peculiar character of the movemen t is completely lost We .

d esc ribe the step for the lad y as it is employ ed in the forward
m ovement .

1 st bea t — Stand with right foot slightl y forward ; sprin g

u pon it bringing i t behind left foot which is raised at same
, ,

m omen t .

2 nd bea t — Slid e y our left foot fo rward bending the k nee , .

d b t — B ring y our right foot with a s l ight hop u

3 r ea
p , ,

behind y our l eft foot raising the latter an d k eep ing i t in

,
front ( One bar )
. .

1 st bea d — Spring upon y our left foot passing it b ehind y ou r ,

ri ght and raising latter

, ,

z ud bea t — Slide r ight foot forward bend ing the kne e , .

rd Mi a— Bri n le ft foo t u to ri ht wi t h li h t
3 g ho p, and
'

g p g , s
96 BA LL -R O OM GUIDE .

raise righ t foo t a t same moment, k eeping i t in fron t as be .

fore .

Wh en the figu re m tonr mm t ( circular movement ) is em

ployed the lady be gins b y sliding the l eft foot for ward an d
, ,

the right foot backward Gentleman alway s does the same .

,
with order of feet reversed .

T his danc e has bee n very p opular i n Paris in England i t

'

is no w s eldom s een .

X IV — T HE Scu o rr rscns
. .

The Schottisch e was introduced amongs t us a bo u t the

sam e time as the Polka M azo urka but i t received a much ,

m ore cordial welcome an d has always been popular in Eng ,

land I ts origin is as uncertain as that o f th e Polka and i t

.
,

i s be l ieved to be a very ancient national dance I t is a great .

favourite with th e G erman p easantry ; and although its

n ame ,
would seem to impl y that i t came from
Scotland there is no doubt that it is essentiall y G erman alike
,

In character and in music .

T he step although easy to l earn requires great precision

, , .

W e would recomm end our readers to adhere throughout t o

the c ircu l ar movemen t S ome dancers begin by four steps .

to the right then back again not turning unti l the y com
, ,

m ence th e secon d ha l f of the fi g ure But when man y .

coup l es are dancing this p ractice involves a ris k of c ollisions ,

and i t is safer to begin at once w ith the figure a t to urmm t .

T he second part of the step consists of a series of slight

hops which must be made exactly at the sam e moment b y
,

both )arties other wise a break -down is inevitable T he y

shoul dbe executed as quic k ly as possible so as t o avoid the
.
,

c gm g e ffect which had dance rs i mpart t o the Schottische

r
.

When we ll performed i t i s a ve ry animated and elegan t

dance fo rm ing an agreeabl e variety to the Polka and V a l se
, .

T he time is z f i t should be p l ay ed a good deal slower

than the Po l ka ; when hui i ied i t becomes un graceful and
vu l gar The first and third beat in each bar should be slight l y
.

marked .

We proceed to describe the step as danc ed b y the gentl e

m an .

S l ide the left foot forward ; bring right foot close ui

p be
h ind left foot Sli le left foot forward a second time
. . Sbli ng
il po n l eft foo t . Tl i t d o h e Saute with ri ght foo t
.
t
.
93 BALL -R O OM GUIDE

n i ng with his left foot does one pol k a st ep t o the le ft, t urn;
,

i ng partn er .

z u d ba n — B ring right foot t o the secon d p osition and ,

ben d t owards i t wai t a whol e bar . .

r d -ba r — O ne p o l ka step with right foo t to th e right

g . ,

turning partn er .

— L eft foot t o sec o nd position

4 t/z ba n ; ben d towards i t -
,

and wait as before .

T/zzra pa r t — T a k e three p ol k a steps to th e left ( T his

'
’
.

occupies three bars ) B ring right foot to second position a nd

.
,

wai t one bar R epeat the s ame beginning with righ t foo t
. ,

to the ri ght .

X V I -r-T HE Go k e
. zA. -

This is a Polish round dance for two which was b rough t ,

over to L ondon from Paris in 1 85 1 L ik e the V arsovienne .

,

i t is n ow se l dom seen beyon d th e wall s of the dancing aca

demy Perhaps on e reason of i ts short l ived popu l arity is
.
-

t o be found in th e fact that it is rather troi ibleso m e to lear n ,

the steps being changed continua ll y T he t im e i s th e sa m e .

a s that of the S chottische b ut not quite s o quick T ake , .

y our position as for the Po l ka .

I rt ba n — O ne polka step t o the left beginn ing with left ,

fo ot and turning ha lf round

,
.

a nd fir m— Slide your right foot to right bring l eft foo t u p ,

behin d it as in th e fifth position mak e a glzrsa a e with

'
’
,

y our right foot ending with y our left in front

, .

d O —Spring on your right foot raising y our le ft in

3 r a r .
,

fr on t Fa l l on your l eft foot passing it behind your right foot

'

.
, .

C hara de to right with right foot end ing with left i n front , .

ba n — Again spring on right foot raising left in fron t , .

Fal l on l eft foot passing it behind right Glzrm a e to right

'
’
.
, ,

wi th your right foot ; end with same foot in fron t T hen .

repeat from beginning d uring the n ext four bars

.
but the ,

secon d tim e be carefu l to e nd with the l eft foot in fron t

- ‘

D uring the las t two bars y ou turn round but d o n ot move , ,

step for the lady is the same with th e order of the feet
T he , ,

as usual reversed ; except however in the las t two bars o f

, , ,

this figure which both begin with the same foot

‘ ’

, .

The Gorlitza, like t he precedin g d ance, is divided int

 BA LL -R OOM G UID E .

part s . The fi rst part occupies eight bars of th e music ; the

s econd sixteen bars The step for the second part is as fol
, .

l ows :
rst/ Ou r ba r n — C ommence with Pol k a M az urk a step wi th ,

left foot to the left and turn hal f round T hen do the ste p
, .

o f th e C e lla ri u s to the right beginning with the right foot ; ,

fa ll on left foot keeping i t behind right foot glzssa de with

'

right foot and end with same in front

, .

r ba r n — Polka M a zurka with righ t foot t o th e

a nd
fo u ,

right and turn half round C ella rius step with left foot to
, .
,

the left Fa ll on right foot k eeping i t behind glzrra ae with

'
’
.
,

left foot bringing i t behind

, .

R epeat from begin ning which co mple t es the si x te en bars,

of second half of the figure .

L ad y do es the s am e st eps with order of fee t reverse d , .

X VII —THE VAL SE

. A T a o rs T EM PS .

T wen t yy ears ago the V alse ( or as it was then pron ounc ed

, , ,

Wa l/z ) was a s tate l y m easure danced with gravity and de libe ,

ration E ach couple wheeled round and round with dignifi ed

.

composure never interrupting the monotony of the dance by

,

a ny movements for wa rd or bac k ward T hey conseque nt l y .

soon became giddy a l though the music was n ot played abov e

,

half as fast as the va l se music of our da y W e are bo und t o . .

ad m it that this state l y fashio n of walt z ing was infinite ly more

graceful than the sty l e which has superseded it But having .

,

c onfessed so much we may ven ture to add that the V alse as

, ,

d a nced by the present generation poss esses a spirit lig h tness , , ,

an d variet y quite unknown to its state l y predecessor .

T he o l d W a l tz was introduced into this country from Ger

m any where it has always been the favourite dance of th e
,

p eop l e in all ranks and cond itions B ut a l though we ad opted .

,

the step of their national wa l t z we so entirely al tered the time , ,

that it becam e i n our hands a tota l l y di fferent dance which ,

the G ermans themse l ves wou l d ha ve found i t difficu l t to recog;

“ ”
ni z e At that pen o d fast dancing was unknown in Eng?
’

.
,

land a nd would have been regarded as high l y indecorous

, .

At its first in troduction the W alt z was rec eived with great,

m istrust by the older portion of the community I f i t was to .

b e to l erated at all in correct society i t mus t at least be danced ,

i na de l iberate manner consonant with the dign ity of the E ng

,

lish charac t er It was, th erefore, tak en at half its ori ginal

.
 roo BA LL -R OOM GUIDE .

temp: i t cease d t o b e the gi ddy into xica ting whirl i n which ,

th e Ge rmans delight and su bsided int o the comparatively in

,
o

sipid and spiritless affair k nown thi rt y y ears ago as th e Ger

m an Waltz
’
.

W e have alread y se en how complete was the revoluti on

e fie cted by the Polk a in thes e o l d -fashioned ideas
'

But .
,

a lthough we cann ot regret the introd uction of a more animated

s tyl e of dancing w e are sorry that the o l d , has been so
e n tire l y given up W hen restored to its original temps the
.
,

Va lse d Trats Temps is n earl y as sp irite d as the Va lse d D eux;

'

and twice as graceful I t h as the additional advantage over .

the latter that it contains in each bar three steps to thre e

,

beats of th e time ; whereas the D eux Tempr as its name ,

i mplies n umbe rs onl y two steps in a bar of three not es

,

a nd is thus i ncorrec t in t ime W e ventu re to predict .

that the old W a l tz wi l l at no distan t day be restored to , ,

publi c favour W e shall be h eartily glad to welcome i t on c e

.

m ore but on the condition that it sh all be danced i n the on ly

,

m anner which doe s j usti ce t o all i ts attractions tha t is as i t ,

is danced b y the G erman p ea san ts under the wide spread ing -

oaks of its own fatherl and W e proc ee d to d esc ribe the step .

fo r the gentleman : the sa me beginning w i th right foo t ln ,

s tead o f le ft will app ly t o the lady

, .

G entleman ta kes his artner round the wa ist with his righ t
arm his le ft hand hol s hers as in th e Polka L ady places , .

left hand on his sh oulder and right hand in his left han d , .

B egin at once wi th the figu r e en tou r mm t T ime 2 one step .

t o each b eat First b ea t in each bar shoul d be slightl y

.

m ark ed b y the da ncers .

rrt beat — Slide le ft foo t bac k wards towards the le ft , .

and bea t — Slide y our r ight foo t p ast y our left in sam e dirce
foot behin d le ft, and t urning sli ghtl y to
l eft foot up b eh in d right ( one bar) .

a nd beat — Sh ot forward, still turning towards

right .

3r d bea t — B ring
right foot up t o righ t, turni ng on both fee t ,

so as to complet e the c ircle ( two bars ) R em ember to finish .

with right foot in fron t R ep ea t from fi rst beat of fi rst bar

. .

G entl em an al wa ys t urns fro m l eft t o right lad y from right to

le ft .

The s t ep o f the old Wal tz is simple enough nev erthel ess

so m e pra ctice is required to danc e it r eally well R emember .

hite, not to mp. fory ard ; for the beauty of this

-
always to w
toe B AL L -K OO1 ”G UI DE .

follow ing each other quickly in the sam e directio n Gentl e .

m an b egins as usual with his l eft foot l ady with her right .

1 5 ! beat — 6 13 m m : to the left with left foot .

2 nd a nd 3r d &ea tr — C/ a rrez in the same di rection with ri gh t

.
z

foot do not turn in this first bar .

z u d ba r xst bea t — Sli de right foot bac k wards turning hal f

, ,

round .

a nd a nd 3r d berm— Pass l eft foot behind righ t an d d ra ma ,

forward with it turning ha l f round to comp l ete the fig u r e en

,

tou m a m ‘
. Finish wit h right foot in front and begin over ,

again with le ft foot .

T here is n o vari ation in th is step but y ou can v ary th e

m o vemen t b y going backwards or forwards at p l easure instead ,

of cont inuing the rotatory motion T he Va lse ci D e ux Tempr .

,

l ike the Polk a admits of a revers e step ;but i t is difficu l t an d

, ,

looks awkward unl ess exe cuted to perfection The fi rst re .

qu is ite in this V a l se is to avoid all j umping movements T he '

.

feet must g l ide smooth l y an d swift l y over the fl oor a nd be ,

raised from i t as little as p ossib l e B eing so very quick a .

d ance i t m us t be perform ed quiet l y other wise i t is liabl e t o

, ,

bec om e ungrac efu l and vu l gar Th e steps should be short

.
,

and the knees slightly bent .

As the movemen t is n ecessarily very rapid the danger o f ,

col l isions is proportionately increased and gent l emen wi ll d o

well to remember an d act upon the ca utions contained in the
previ ous pages of this book u nder the head of T he Po l ka
, .

T hey shou l d also be scru pu l ous not to attempt to conduct

a lady through this V al se until they have thoroughly mastered
the step and we ll practised thefigu r e en tou n za n t A wk ward .

n ess or i nexperience doub l es the risks o f a co l lision ; which in ,

this extremely rapid dan ce might be attended wi th serious

,

consequences .

The D ew: Tempy is a somewhat fatigui ng valse and aft er ,

t wo or thre e t urns roun d the room the gen t l em an sho uld ,

pause to a ll ow his partner to rest He shou l d be ca refu l to.

se l ect a lady whose height does n ot pres ent t oo striking a

contrast to his o wn for it looks ridicu l ous to see a ta ll man
dancing with a short woman or vice ven d T his observation
, .

a pp l ies to all ro und d a nces , but especial ly to th e v a ls e, in any

of i ts forms .
 BALL -R O OM GUID E . 1 03

X IX — T HE Na w V A L SE
. .
’

This gracefu l variation of th e valse m ovemen t has no t lon g

been introduced into Engl and and is not yet so universa ll y ,

p opul ar as i t promises t o becom e I t was however much .

, ,

d anced in L ondon last year and there is reason t o beli eve ,

that i t wi l l be th e favourite dance this season I t is m ore .

e l egant than the Va lse d D eux Temps an d more spirited than ,

the C ella rius T he tempo is slower th an that of the ordinary

.

va l se T he step is extreme ly simple

. .

G ent leman takes his partner as for the Va lse a D eu x Temps .

Fal l on the l eft foot an d make two g lzssa a es with the righ t
’
,

( t st bar ) R ep eat reversing order of feet ( z ud bar ) L ad y

.
, .

begins with her right foot as u sual The step is the sam e .

throughou t Fi ure en tour m mt

.
g .

T he pecu l iarity of this V a l se lies in its acce nt which can ,

not be proper l y explained i n words but must be se en to be ,

u nderstood W e recommen d our readers t o l os e n o time i n

.

a cquiring a correct knowledge of the New Va l se It i s i m .

.

questionably the m os t eas y and most gracefu l dance whic h

ha s appeared of late years and we are told on firs t-rat e au ,

thorit y that it i s d estined to a long ca re er of tri umphs .

XX .
-L E GAL OP .

The Galop its name impl ies 15 th e quin t esse nce o f all
, as ,
”
the fast dances At the ti me of the Po l ka mania i t was
.

very much 1 n vogu e and was a l most as great a favourite as

,

th e D eux Temps Al though its p opularity has greatly de

.

clined of late i t genera ll y occurs twice or thrice in the pro

, ,

gram me of every bal l room ; and th e music of the G alop is ,

like th e dance itself so ga y and spirited that we should

, ,

regret to see i t who ll y laid aside The step is simi l ar to that .

of th e D eux Temps V alse but the tim e is and as qu ick as

,

p ossible T wo cfia ssez steps are mad e in each bar

. The .

fi gure can b e varied by tak ing four or eight steps i n the sam e
d irection or b y t u rn i ng wi th every two steps as in the D eux
, ,

Temps . L ik e a l l round dances i t admits of an un l imited ,

number of coupl es B eing perhaps the most eas y of any

.
, , ,

every one tak es part in it , and the room is generall y cro wde d
 m4 B AL L R OOM G UID E .

d uring i ts c ontinua nc e A special amoun t of care is therefore

.

necessa ry on the art of the gentlema n to p rotec t h is p a rtner

p
from accidents .

W e ha ve no w descri be d all the roun d dances at pr esent in

vo gu e

X X L — THE Con n o rs .

The Co till on is rarel y seen in English ball-rooms, b u t on

the C ont inen t, espec iall y in I ta ly i t is a great favourite
, . It
Occupies a somewhat si mi lar positi on to o ur own Sir R oger
d e C overley be ing generall the concludi ng d ance of th e
,
y
even ing in which every one Jo ins
, I t ca n be ro lo nged at
.

b y the introduc ti on of more fi gures or i t has no ,

d efinite begi nn ing or end I t is in fact more li k e a long
.
, ,

ga me pe rformed to the accompani ment of va l se m usic than a

d ance .

W e shall d es cri be the C otillon as w e have se en i t in the

pala ces of I tal y wh er e i t is danc ed with enthusiasm an d
, ,

diversified b y an innumerable variety of figures, on l y a few

o f which we c an undertak e to remembe r I t is n ever com
.

m enced till towards the cl ose of the ba ll at so advanced an ,

h our that all the sobe r portion of the assemb ly have retired ,

a nd onl y the real lovers of dancing rem ain who somet im es ,

prolong this thei r favourite amuse ment till a late hour in the
mo rn i ng .

I t is cus tomary for gen tl emen to sel ec t the ir partners for

the C otillon earl y in the even ing whil e the other dances are
,

i n pr o gress ; for as i t la sts so long a time i t is nec essary t o

, ,

kn ow beforeh an d how man y la di es fee l incl in ed t o remain

dur ing i ts continuanc e .

A circ l e of chai rs is arra nged roun d the roo m th e cen tre ,

bei ng left clear ; the spectators stand behin d the chairs so as ,

no t to in terfere wi th the d ancers Each gent l eman l eads his

.

pa rtner to a seat taking another bes ide her T o these sa me

, .

se ats th ey return after every figure i t be ing the etiquette of

,

the dance that n o couple shou l d appropriate an y chairs but

their own tak en at th e commencement W he n the da ncers
, .

are arranged roun d the room the orch estra strikes u p th e

,

s p iri ted music of th e C otillon which consists of a long series

,

o f valse m ovem en ts at the usual i em o of th e D eux 7 27 7: 3

p .

T h er e are genera ll y se veral l eaders o f the C ot illon , who 1:

ros BA LL -R O OM GUIDE .

inwa rds . seat them se ves in the chai rs gentlem en

L adies , .

move sl owly roun d in front of them E ach lady throws he; .

‘

handkerchief or bouque t at th e gentleman with whom she

wis hes to d ance as he pas ses b efore her V alse round as usu al .

and retu rn to places .

S ometimes a gen tleman is blind folded an d placed in a ,

chair T wo ladies take a seat on either side of him an d h e

.

is bound to make his selectio n withou t seeing the fa ce of his

p ar tner Having done so he pulls the covering from his
.
,

eyes an d va lses o ff with her

,
I t is a cu ri ous c ircumstance
.

that mistak es seldom occur the gent l eman being genera l ly

,

s uffici ent ly cla irvoy a nt to secure the partner he desires .

W e have here des cribed a few of th e most striking figures

of the C otil l on W e mi ght multip l y them to an extent ivh ich
.

would equ all y tax th e patience of our reade rs and our own
p owers of remembrance but we forbear E nough has been .

to l d to show the graceful coqu et tish character of the dance

, ,

adapts itse l f admi ra bly to the I tal ian natur e and i s as ,

much bel oved by them as the V als e by the G ermans or th e

C achu cha by the dar k eyed maidens of Spa in W e should re
-
.

j oice to see thi s char ming stranger natu ralised i n Eng l ish ball
ro oms I t i s especial ly ad apted to sociab l e gatherin gs where
.
,

most of the guests are fri en ds or acquaint anc es .

X XII — T HE S PA NISH DA NCE

. .

This pretty though now somewhat old fashio n ed da nce -

was before the introduction of the D ew : Tamps and Polk a a

, ,

principal featu re i n every ball room I t is danced with the .

step and m usic of the Old Va lse a T7 013 Tamp: play ed s l ower
than the music of the D eux Temps .

S ometimes the couples stan d i n two long parallel l in es as ,

in a cou n try da nc e sometimes they are arranged in a circ l e .

T he leading gent l eman must be on the l adies side and his

’
,

partner on the gent l eman s side E very four th lady a nd

’
.

gentleman ex change p l aces t o avoid the necessity of keeping

,

the oth e r coup l es waiting The whole set can thus beg in at
.

the same m oment .

L eading gentleman and second lad y advance and retreat

with V alse step and change p l aces L e adi ng lady and second
, .

gentleman do the sam e at the same time .

L ea ding gentlema n and his p ar tner adv anc e and re tr eat,

 BA LL-
RO OM G UI DE . 107

and change places Second lady and gentleman do the sam .

at sam e time L eading gentleman a nd second lad y repea t

.

this figure firs t lad y a nd second gentleman likewise at sam e ,

L eading gentleman and fi rs t lad y repeat sam e fi gure ;

seco nd gentleman and lady repeat at same time .

A ll four , j oining h ands, advance to centre, and retreat .

L adies pass to the left R epeat three times Each gen tl e . .

m a n takes his partner, aud the two coup l es valse round each
other once or twice at pleasure the second l ady and gent l e
m a n being left at the top of the figure as in a country dance ,
.

L eading gent l eman and partner r epeat same figure wit h suc
ceed ing coupl e to en d of dance .

I t is obvious that th ere must be an equal number of couples ;

and that they mus t be arranged in s ets of four, eight, s ix teen ,
twent y, tw enty fo ur, and so on - .

XX I I I . LA TE
- M PET E .

L a Tempéte was brought over to this country from Paris

Some y ears ago . I t speedi l y became a favourite and for ,

several seasons was much danced i n L ondon and the pro

vinces I t unites the cheerfu lness of the quadr i ll e with the
.

sociabilit y of th e country dan ce ; and when its lively figures

are co rr ectl y p erform ed i t is both amusing and animated ,
.

I t is divided into parties of four couples like the quadrille ,

but their arrangement is different T wo coup l es stand side by .

side facing th eir respective mind wit there are n ot any side
,
-

c ouples As many sets of four coup l es can be thus arranged

.

as the room wi ll accommodate Each ne w set turns its bac k .

u pon the second line of the preceding set T hus the dance .

can be th e whole length of the room but is only the breadth ,

of two couples T he figure is as fo ll ows .

P l ace two couples side b y side the l ady standing at th e ,

right ha n d of the gent l eman Place two other co up l es as .

their ms d-mr Ne x t place two coup l es wit h their backs

’ ’

-
. .

tur ned to the fi rst set ; two couples opposite them for their
wr d wr ; and continue arranging more sets of four coup l es
’ ’

- -

according to the number of th e dancers a nd the s iz e of the

room .

Fzrstpa fl — All the couples begin at th e same moment by

’

.
,

ad vanc ing and r et r ea ting twice, with j oined hands First .

i ds BALL-R O OM 0 0 1 0 5 .

c ouples ( tha t i s aall whose b ack s are turned to the t op o f the

,

r o om ) cr oss with hands j oin ed to the p l aces of thei r ws-a vis

”
.
, ,

T he latter cross at the same time but separating p ass out , , ,

s ide top couples t o the top where the y j o in hands retu rn to , ,

o wn places and back again to the top without sepa rating

,

the top couples crossing separatel y at the same time outsid e

the second couples T o p couples then Join hands and all re
.
,

tu rn to their o wn places secon d couples separating to allow ,

th e others to pass between them .

L ady and gentleman i n the cen tre of each line j oi n hands ,

giving their disengaged hands to their two ws-a -ms All fo ur

'

hal f round t o the left then ha l f round bac k again to places,

.

M eantime the outside lad y and gentleman p erformthe sam e

,

with their respective a nd m s making a circle of two instead ,

of four C ircle of four give hands across round ; change

.

hands ; roun d once more and bac k to places O utside , .

coup l es perform same figure i n twos All the sets perform .

the figure at the same m oment .

S econd pa rt — All advance retreat an d advance again all

.
, , ,

the top couples passi ng the second couples into the next line ,

where they re commence th e same fi gu re their former vis a ms ,

having passed t o the top and turned round to wait for a fresh ,

ws -a ws ; gentleman always k eeping lad y at his righ t hand

’

-
.

An entire change of places rs thus e ffected which i s continued ,

throughout this figure until all the top lines have passed to ,

the bottom the bottom l ines at the same t ime passing to the
,

top and then turning round all go bac k again b y the sam e ,

m ethod reversed till al l have regained their origin al places

, .

T he dance may term inate here or the last figure m a y be re ,

pea ted at pleasure Vl hen the first exchange of vis a vis

.
-
,

tak es p l ace the new lines at the to p and bottom find them
,

s elves for a moment withou t a r/ is a ms bu t at the n ext m ov e -

, ,

forward the y are provided and can continu e the figure as

, ,

above described W e extract from a contemporar y the fol

.

lowing graceful variati on in the first ha l f of this dance All

advance and retire twice ( hands j oin ed ) All ws-cz ms coup l es
‘

c/zassez crozsez m do néle each gent l eman retaining his part,

’
n er 5 left han d eight ga /Op steps ( four bars ) dér/ mssez eight
,

steps ( four steps) the coup l e on the right of the top lin e
.

passing in fron t o f the couple on the l eft the fi rst time re ,

turning to passing behind T hus two couples a re

m oving to t 1p
, .
,

elace
right and two to the left T his is repeated
,
. .

T he vi s-d ms couples do li k ewise at the same time T his o f .

c our e appli es to all the co uples, as all commence at the sa me

time
s .
,
no BAL L
R O OM G UI DE .

Of the lin e. ( Th is fi gure is

omitted ) To p coupl e .

advance courtesy an d bow , turns o ff to th e righ t, ,

gen t l eman to the left each followed b y the rest of her or hi s

,

l ine To p couple m ee t at the bottom of fi gure j oi n hands

.
, ,

and raising their arms let a l l the other couples pass under
, ,

them towards th e top of the line t ill all reach their o wn ,

places except the top who have now become the bottom
, ,

coup l e Figure is repeated from the beginning unti l the top

.
,

coup l e hav e onc e m ore worked their wa y back to the ir origi

nal places at the top of the line .

fi lo s s ary .

THR OU GHOU T t he Ball -roo m Guide we hav e endeavoured

t o avoi d as much as possible th e us e o f French words, and to
gi ve o ur directions i n the p l ain m other tongue Nevertheless .

there must always be c ertai n technical term s such as c/zassez ,

croisez
g lis sa de
, & c & c for ,
which it wou
. l
,
d be diffic ul t to
.
,

fi nd good Eng l ish equiv alents W e therefore subj oin a G los .

sary of all such words and expressions as hav e long sin ce been
u niversa lly accepted as th e accred ited phras eology of the B all o

t OOIIl.
’

A vo s place s, lo ck to y our own plan s .

A la fin , a t ti e and .

A droite, to tile nigh .

A gauche, to tbe left

'
.

l
B a ancez , set to y ou r pa rtners .

l x
B a ancez au coins, set to tire com m .
'

B alanoez quatre en lign e , fi ur da ncers set in a line, ;bznifl g

ba nd s, as i n L a Pau lo .

Balance z en mouli n et , gm tlemm a nd téoir pa rtners give ca cé

o t/zer rig/i t [la uds across, a nd b alanc ez i n i lze fo r m of a

'

Balancez et tour des mains , all set to pa r tners, a nd tu rn to

l ( See T our d es m ai ns )
p ac es . .

Balle tez, a o tke sa me step f our tim witfiout cfia ngi rgg y our
’

C haine Anglaise, opposite couples rig/z! and le ft .

’
C haine des dam es, ladies d ra in .
 GL OSSAR Y . fl !

Chaine Anglaise dou ble , double g/i t a nd left

ri .

'
C hain e des dames double, a ll t/ze la dies perform Ike ladi es
c/za i n a t tli e sa me time .

C hasse z croise z, do t/i e ch ass é step f rom left to rig/i t, or r igkt

to lef t, tlze la dy pa ssing befo r e t/ze gentlem a n i n t/ze opposite
d irectio n, lka t is, m oving mg/zt if be m oves te a nd vice versd
'

C hasse z croise z e t d echa ssez, clza nge pla ces wit/i pa r tners,
'

la dies pa ssing in f ro nt, fi rst to tbc r igkt, tken to flee le ft, ba ck

to pla ces . I t may be eit/zer a quatre — f ou r couples— or les
hui t — eigkt couples .

C hasse z a droite — a gauche , m ove to tke r igkt —

- to tbc left .

l
L e cavalier seu , gentlem a n a dva nces a lo ne .

x
L es caval iers seuls deu fo is , ge ntlemen a dva nce and retire twice
'

C hange z vos dames, cka nge pa rtners .

C ontre parti e pour les autres , t/i e otker da ncers do tke sa me

D emi promenade ka lf pr omena de

chaine Anglaise Iza lf r zg/zt a nd 1m
.
,

D emi , .

D emi m ou l inet la dies a ll a dva nce to centre r zgkt ba nds across,

, ,

a nd ba ck to pla ces .

D emi tour a quatre , fou r ba nds ka lf rou nd .

D o s-a-dos , la dy a nd opposite gentlem a n a dva nce, pa ss round

ea ck olber ba ck to ba ck, a nd r etur n to pla ces .

l
L es dames en mou inet , la dies g ve rig/i lza na s a cross to co ck
i t
’

f r ou nd, a nd ba ck aga i n wit/z lef t ba nds

o tker, Iza l .

l
L es dames do nnent a main droite — gauche — a leurs cavaliers ,
lad ies g ive tlze r zgkt— le t— ka nds to pa r tner s
f
En avan t deux e t en arriere , fi r st la dy a nd vis -a-vis gentlema n
.

a dvance a nd r eti re To secur e brevity , en avant is a lway s

.

u nderstood to i mply e n arriére to ken t/ze la tter is not ex

En avant deux fois a dva nce a nd r etrea t twice

, .

En avant quatre fi rst couple a nd tkezr vis a-vis

,
-
a dva nce a nd

En avant trois , tkree a dva nce a nd setire, a s in L a Pa stora le .

Fig ure z devant , d a nce bef o re .

Figure z a droite — a gauche , da nce to tlze ngkt— to tbc le ft .

L a grande tour de rond , a ll j oi n ba nds a nd da nce com letel

p y
r ou nd tke
figu r e i n a ci r cle back to pla ces .

L e gran d rond , a ll j oin ba nds, a nd a dva nce a nd retrea t twice,

as i n L a Fi na le .

L e grand quatre, a ll eig/i t couples f orm into squa r es .

La gran de chaine , a ll t/ze couples m ove quite rou nd tke fi u re,

g
giving a lterna tely tke erg/i ta nd lef t ba nd to cacii i n succession,
" 8 BAL L GUID E .

beginning witk u ntil a ll kavc rega ined tkeir plcm ,

as i n la st o ncers .
e nt ( or more) couples promenade
a ll r ou nd gu re ba ck to pla ces
tke / z .

L a main , tlze ba nd .

L a meme pour le s caval iers , gentlemen do tbc sa me .

L e moulinet, ba nds a cr oss l e gu re will expla in wkctber

.

i t is Me gentlemen, or tbc ladies, or bot/z, 20 120 a re to per

form it
.

Pas d Allemand e, tbc gentlema n turns Itis partner under each

’

a r m i n succession .

Pas d e B asque, a ki nd of slidi ng

botk f eet altern a tely
a nd o t/zer da nces Com es f r om tke Soutk of Fra nce
. .

L e T iroir, fi rst couple cr oss wit/z ba nds joined to opposite couple s ’

p la ce, opp o site co u le crossi n

p g separ a tely outside t/zem then
cr oss back to
places, sa me figu re reversed .

T our des mains , g ive bot/i ba nds to par tner, a nd tum ker round
witnout guitti ng y ou r places .

T our sur place , tbc sa me .

T ournez vos dam es, t/ze sa me .

T our a ux coins, tu r n a t tbc corners, as in tbe Ca ledonia ns, eack

gentlema n tur ning tbc la dy wko sta nds nea rest bis left /l a nd,
a nd i mmed ia tely r etu rnin
g to bis own place .

T raversez, cr oss over to opposite place .

R etraverse z, cr oss back aga i n .

T ra versez deux , en donnant la main droi te , la dy a nd vis-a n w

gentlema n cr oss, giving rzgkt ba nd, as in L a Poule .

V is-a-vis , opposite .

Figure en t ournant, circula r figure.

"4 E TI QUE T TE OF

c ompromising the lad y herself i n the slightes t degree Whe n .

he has satisfied himse l f on this head and found no insur ,

mountable impedimen t ia h is way his n ex t endeavo ur will ,

b e through the m ediation of a co mmon friend to procure a n

, ,

i ntroduction to th e lady s fami ly

’
T hose who undertak e .

such an o ffi ce i ncur n o slight responsibi l ity and are of , ,

c ours e expected t o be scrupulous ly c areful i n p erforming

,

i t and to commun icat e all they happen to k no w affecting

,

the character an d c ircu mstances of the i ndividual they in tro

duce .

W e will now revers e th e p icture and see how ma tt ers

‘

,
’
stand on the fair one s side .

First l et us h op e that the inclination i s mutual ; at all

e vents that the lad y views her adm irer with preference that
, ,

sh e deems hi m n ot unworthy of her favourab l e regard an d ,

that his attentions are agreeable to her I t is tru e her heart .

may n ot yet be won : she has to be wooed and what fai r

d aughter of Eve has not hai l ed with rapture that brightest
d a y in the spr ingt ide of her life She has probabl y fi rst me t
the gentleman at a ba ll or other festive occasion where th e
, ,

e xcitement of the scene has reflected on every obj ect around

’

a roseate tint W e are to suppose of cours e that i n looks

.
, , ,

manner and address her incipient admirer is n ot below her

, ,

i deal standard in gent l eman l y attributes His respec tful .

a pproaches to her— in so l iciting he r hand as a partn er i n the

dance &c — have first awakened on her part a s l ight feeling
, .

o f interest towards him T his mutual feeling of interest

.
,
“ ”
o nce estab l ished soon grows by what i t feeds on
, T he . .

exaltation of the whole scene favours its deve l opment and i t ,

can h ard l y b e wondere d at if both parti es leave j udg m en t

“ out in the cold ” whil e enj o ying each other s soc iety ’
and ,
“
p ossibly already pleasantly occupied in building cas tles in
th e air ”
Wh atever may eventuall y come of it the fair o ne
.
,

is conscious for the nonce of being unusually happ y T hi s .

emotion is not l ik ely t o be diminished when sh e finds hers elf

th e obj ect of general attention — accom p anied i t ma y be by , ,

the disp l ay of a littl e envy among rival beauti es -o wing to

th e assiduous homage of her admirer At length pruden ce .
,

whispers that he is to her as y et but a comparative stranger ;

, ,

and with a modest reserve she endeavours to retire from his

observation so as n ot to see m to encourage his attentions
, .

T he gent l eman s ardour however is not to be thus check ed

’
, ,

h e again solicits her to be his partner in a d ance She fi nds .

i t hard very h ard t o refuse him and both y ieldi ng at las t

, , ,
to the allur ing influ ences b y which the y are surround ed, dis~
 Co UR TSHIP AND MA TR IM ON Y . 11 3
co v er a t the momen t of p parti ng that a n ew and deligh t ful
sensation has been awakeii ed i n their hearts .

At a j uncture s o critical in the life of a y ou ng inexperi

enced woman as that when she begins to form an attachmen t
fo r one of the opposite Sex— at a momen t when she needs
th e very best advice accompan ied with a considerate regard
for her overwrough t feelings — th e very best cours e she can
ta k is to confide th e secret of her heart to that truest a nd
t loving of friends— her mother Fortun at e 1 5 the da ugh .

ter who has not been deprived of that w isest and tenderes t
of counse l lors — whose experi ence of l ife whos e prude nc e ,

and sagacity whose anxious care and appreciation of her

,

chi ld s sentiments and whose awak en ed reco ll ections of her

’
,

own t rysting days qualify and entitle her above all other
,

beings to counsel and comfort her trusting child and to c l ai m ,

her confidenc e L e t the timid girl then pour forth into her
.

m other s ear the fl ood of her pent up fee l ings L e t her e n

’
.

d eavo ur to distrust her own j u dgm ent and see k hope guid , ,

ance and support from one who sh e we ll knows wi ll n ot

, , ,

deceive or mis l ead h er T he confidence thus estab l ished wi l l

.

b e productive of the most beneficia l resu l ts — lby securing the

d aughter s obedience to her parent s advice an d her wi ll ing
’ ’
,

adoption of th e Observances prescribed by etiquette which , ,

a s the courtship progr esses that paren t wi ll n ot fai l to re ,

comm end as strict l y essential in this phase of life W here a .

y oung woman has had the misfort un e to be deprived of her

mother she shou l d at such a period endeavour t o find her
,

nex t best counse l lo r in som e female relative , or other trust

W orthy friend .

W e are to suppose that favourabl e opportunities for meeting

have occurred unti l by -and by both the l ady and her adm irer
, ,
-
,

ha ve com e t o regard each other with such warm fee l ings of ’

i nclination as t o have a constant craving for each other s
societ y O ther eyes have i n the meantime not fai l ed to notic e
.

the sy m to m s of a growing attachment ; and som e k ind “

p
fri ends have, no doubt, even set them down as alread y e n
’

gaged .

l h e admirer of the fair on e is indeed so much enamour ed

‘

, ,

as to be unable longer to retai n his secret wi th i n his o wn

breas t and not being wi thout hope that his attachm ent i s re
, ,

cipro cated resolves on seeking an introduction to the lad y s

’
,

famil y preparatory to his m aking a form al decl aration of love .

I t 1 5 possib l e however that the lover endeavours t o pro

’
a
, ,

cure the des ir ed introducti on ma y fail of suc cess al thou h

g , ,

where m mtenfl ditfemnoe d wd al position exismthis di fii

c ult y will be found to o cc ur less frequentl y th an m ight at first
be sup posed He m us t then discreetly adopt m easur es to
.

bring him self in some d egree under the fair one s noti ce ’

su ch for inst ance as attend ing th e p l ace of worship whi ch she

, ,

frequents m eeting h er so often as to be manifes tly for the pur

, ,

pose in the course of her prome nades &c He w ill thus

, , .

s o on be able t o j udg v wi thout sp eak ing to the lady

whether his fur ther atten tions will be d is tasteful to her The .

signs of this on th e l ady s part though of the most trifling

’
,
na ture and in no wa y compromising her w ill be unmis take
, ,

a ble for, as the poe t tells us in speak ing of the se x

H gave them but o ne t o ngu e to
e sa y us Nay ,
‘ ’

And two fond ey es to gra nt I"

Shoul d her demea n our be d ecidedly discouraging, an per

s everan ce o u his part would be ungentlemanly and big y ia
d ecorous . B ut on the other hand should a timid bl ush in ti
, ,
o

mate doubt or a gentl e smile lurki ng i n the half dropp ed eye

,
-

give pleasi ng ch allenge to further parley when possible he ,

ma y venture to wri te— not t o the lad y— that woul d be th e

openi ng of a clandes tin e corresp ondence an unworthy cours e ,

where every act shoul d be ope n and st raightforward as tending ,

to manl y and honourable end s — but to the father or guardian

, ,

throu h the agency of a com mon friend where feas ib l e or in

g ,

s ome i ns ta nces to the party at whose residence th e lady may

,

be staying I n his letter he ought fi rst to state h is p osition in

.

li fe and prospec ts as well as mention h is famil y co nnec tions

,

a nd then to reques t pe rmi ssion to vis it the fam ily as a p re ,

liminar y Step to pa y ing hi s address es to the obj ect of his a d

mira tio n .

B y t his o se he in now ise compromises either hi mself or

c ur
th e lad y ; but lea ves o pen to both at any future period an , ,

opportunit y of retiring from the pos iti on of courtshi p ta ken up

o n the one side, and of recei vi ng address es on the oth er wi th ,

e ith er pa rt y o pen to the accusation of fickleness o r

IL Er rons rr r or Co uarsmr .

IN what ever way the a ttachmen t ma y have originat ed,

wh eth er resulting fro m o ld assoc iation or from a recent 3 0
u s E TI Q UE TTE or

co ntinu e t o inclin e towards hi m a willing ear His hab its and .

his conduct must aw ak en her vigilant attention be fore it be too

late Shoul d h e come to visi t h er at irr egular hours should
.

h e exhibit a vagu e or wandering atten tion— give proofs of a

wan t of punctu ality— show disresp ect for age — sneer at things
sacred or absent h imse lf from regular attendanc e at divin e
,

se rvice— o r evince an i ncl ination to expensive pleas ures be

yond his means or to l ow and vul gar amusemen ts shou l d h e
,

be foppish eccentric or very sloven l y in his dr ess or display

, ,

a frivo l i ty of mind and an absence of wel l directed enéTgy in

,
-

his wor l dly pursui ts let th e y oung l ady w e say while there , ,

is yet time eschew that gent l eman s acquaintance and allow

,
’
,

it gent l y to drop Th e e ffort at whatever cost to her fee l ings,

.
,

must be made if she have any regar d for her future happ iness
,

and se l f respec t T he proper course then to take is to inti

-
.

mate her distaste and the caus es that have given rise to i t t o
, ,

her parents o r guardian who will be pretty sure to sympathise

’

with h er an d to take measures for facilitating the retiremen t

,

of the gentleman from his pretensions .

Wfiat t/ze Gm llama n skaulo aarm e a z

'
’ ’
mng Courts/h} .

I t would be we l l also for the suitor on his part during the , ,

fi rst few weeks of courtship carefully to observ e th e conduct

'

of the young l ad y in h er o w n fami l y and the degree of estim a ,

tion in which she is held by them as w e ll as amongs t her in ,

t imate friends If she be attentive to her duties respectful

.

and affectionate to her parents ; kind and forbearing to her

brothers and sisters not easily ru ffl ed in temper ; if her min d
be prone to chee rfu l ness an d to h opefu l aspir ation instead of ,

t o the disp l ay of a morbid anxiety an d dread of com ing evil

‘

i f her p l easures a nd enj oym ents be th ose which chi efly centre
i n h ome if her words be characterised by benevo l enc e good ,

wi ll and charity then w e say let him n ot hesitate but

, , ,

has ten to enshrine so precious a gem in the casket of his a lfec

t ions B ut if on the other hand he should fi nd that he has
.
, ,

b een attracted b y th e tricksome a ffectation and heart l ess al

lurem en ts of a fl irt ready to bestow smi l es on a ll but with a
, ,

heart for n on e ; if she who has succeed ed for a time in fasci

nating hi m be of uneven temper eas ily provoked and slow to , ,

b e appeased fond of showy dress and e ag er for adm iration ,

e cstatic abou t trifles fri volous in her tastes and weak a nd

'

, ,

wavering i n performing her duti es i f her re l igious o h ~

s crva nces are m ere l y the formal ity of l ip servic e ; i f she b e

petulant to her friends, pert and disrespectful to her parents,

 COUR TSHIP AND M A TR IM ON Y . " 9

o verb earing t o her inferiors ; i f pri de vanit y and a ffectation , ,

be her characteristics i f she be inconstant in her friendships ;

gaud y and slovenly rather than neat and scrupulousl y clean
, ,

i n attire and personal habits then we counsel the gentlem an

to retire as speedily but as p olitely as possib l e from the pur
suit o f an obj ect quite unworthy of h is admiration and love 3
n or dre ad that the lady s friends — who must k now her better
’

than h e can do — will call him to account for wi thdrawing

from the fi eld .

B ut we will t ak e i t for gran t ed that all goes on well that

the parties are on su ffici ent acquaintance pleased with each
, ,

other and that the gent l eman i s eager to prove th e sincerity

,

of his a f ectionate regard by giving some substantial token of

his love and homage to the fair one T his brings us t o the .

question of

a point on which certai n Observances of etiquette must no t be

d isregarded A lad y for instance cann ot with propriety ac
.
, ,

cept presents from a gentleman previously to his having mad e

proposals of marriage She would b y so doing incur an ob l i
.

ga tio n at once embarrassing and unbecoming Should how .

,

ever the gent l eman insist on m aking her a present— as of

,

some trifling artic l e of j ewellery & c —there must be n o ,

.
,

secret about it L et the young l ad y tak e an earl y opportunit y

.

of saying to her admirer i n the presence of her father or

,
“
mother I am much ob l iged to y ou for that ring ( or other
,

trinket as th e case may be ) which y ou k ind ly o ffered me the

,

other day and whi ch I shal l be most happ y to accept if m y

, ,

parents do not obj ect and let her sa y this in a manne r

which whil e i t increases the obligation wi l l divest it al to

, ,

gether of impropriet y from having been conferred under the

,

sanction of her parents .

\Ve have no w reached that stage i n the pro gress of the

courtship where budding affection having developed into ,

mature growth, encourages the lover to mak e

TIze Proposa l .

When about t o tak e this step suitor s fi rs t difi c ulty is

, the
’

h ow to get a favourable opportunit y ; and next having got

‘

the ch ance how to screw his courage u to gi ve utterance t o

,
“ ”
the dec l aration W e have h eard 0 a y oung l over who
.

ca rried on a courtship for four m onths ere h e could obtain a

rzo E TJQUE TTE OF

rivat e in t ervie w with his lady l ove I n the hou se as m ight

pe expected they were never left alon e ; a nd in a walk a
.
,

third party always accompanied them In such a dilemma .

,

o ught h e to have unburdened his hea rt of its secret through

the medium of a letter ? W e sa y n ot A declaration in writ .

ing shou l d certain l y b e avoided where the lover can by an y

p ossibi l ity get at the l ady s e ar But there are cases where
’
.

this is so di fficult that an impatient lover cannot be restrain ed

from adopting the agenc y of a billet-dome in declaring h is
passion .

T he lad y be fore proposal is gen erall y pre p a red for i t

, ,
It .

is seldom that such an avowal comes without some previous

indications of look and manner 0 11 the part of the admirer ,

whi ch can hardly fai l of being understood She may no t in .

,

deed consider herself engaged and although nearly certai n

, ,

of the conquest she has made may y et have her misgivings , .

S ome gent l emen dread to ask les t they shou l d be refused

, .

M any pause j ust at the point and refrain from anything like
,

ard our i n their pro fessions of attachment until they feel con
fi d ent that they may be spared the m o rti fica tio n and ridicule
that is supposed t o attach to being rej ected in addition t o the ,

p ain of disappointed hope T his hesitation when the mind is

.

m ade up is wrong but i t does often occur and we suppose ,

ever wi ll do so with persons of great timidity of character

, .

By i t both parties are k ept ne ed l essly on th e fret until th e ,

long lo o ked fo r opportunit y un expected l y arrives when th e

-
,

fl oo d gates of fee l ing are loosen ed and the fu l l tid e of mutual

-
,

a f ection gus hes forth uncontro ll ed It is however at th is .

, ,

moment— the agony point to the embarrassed lover who

-
,

doats yet doubts —whose suppress ed feelings render him

m orbidly sensitive — that a lady should be especia ll y careful
lest an y show of either prudery or coquetry on her part shou l d
lose to her for ever the obj ect of her choice T ru e love is .

generally delicate and timid and ma y easi ly be scared b y

,

a ffected indi fference through fee l ings of wounded pride A

, .

lover needs very litt l e t o assure him of the reciprocation of his

attachment : a g l ance a single pressure of hand a whispere d
, ,

syl l ab l e on the p art of the loved one wi ll su ffi ce t o confirm ,

h is hop es .

R ef/ 54m ! by Me You ng L a izfy .

W hen a lad y rej ects the proposal of a gentleman her be ,

haviour should b e characterised b y the most de l icate feelin g

to wards one who, in o ffering her his hand , has prov ed h is de
 m E TI QUE TTE OF

casion t o the furtherance of her obvious wishes A p erti .

nacio us continuance of his attentions on the part of one who ,

has been distinctl y rej ected is an insul t deserving of the

,

severest reprobation Although the wea k n ess of her sex

.
,

which ought to be her protection frequentl y prevents a ,

woman from forcibl y break ing o ff an acquaintance thus a n

no y ingly forced upon her she rarely fai l s to resent such im
,
o

p ertinence by that sharpest of woman s weapons a k een ’

,

ed ged but co urteous ridicule which few men can bear up ,

against .

m acaw
’
fusa l by t/ze L a dy
Re s Pa rent: or .

I t ma y
happen that both the lad y and her suitor are will
ing but that the parents or guardians of the former on being ,

referred to deem the connection unfitting and refuse thei r

, ,

consen t In this state of matters the first thing a man o f

.
,

sense proper feeling and candour should do is to e ndeav our

, , ,

to learn the obj ections of the parents to see whether they can ,

no t be removed I f they are based on his present insuffi cienc y

.

of means a lover o f a persevering spirit may e ffect m uch in

,

removing apprehension on that score by cheerfull y submi t ,

ting to a reasonable time of probation in the hope of amelio ,

ration in his world l y circumstances Happines s delayed will .

b e none th e less precious when love h as stood the test of con

stancy and the trial of time Shou l d the obj ection be fo unded
.

on inequality of social o sitio n the parties if young ma y , , ,

wait until matured age 5 a l l ripen their j udgm ent and plac e
the future more at th eir own disposal A c l andestine m arri age .

should be peremptoril y declined In too man y cases i t is a .

frau d committed by an elder and more experienced part y

upon one whose ignorance of the world s ways and wh ose ’

co nfid ing tenderness appeal to hi m for protection even agains t

himself I n nearly all the instances w e have known of such
.

m arriages t he resu l ts proved the step to have been ill j udged

,
-
,

impruden t and high l y inj urious t o the reputation of one

,

arty and in the long run detrimental t o the happin ess o f

,

th
.
 0 0 0 1? TSHIP AND MA TR IM ON Y . " 3

III — Er1 Qunrrn

.
' '
OF AN ENGAGEM ENT .

WE will regard the pair of lovers as formall y engaged

now ,

a nd bound together in that state of a proximation to marriage

which was in the ancient C hristian C urch and indeed is sti l l ,

in m an y coun tr ies of Europe considered in a very sacred ,

light little i nferi or to and in fact regarded as a part of

, , , , ,

marriage itself— the Be trothment .

Cofl a uet of Ike E ngaged Co ztple

’
.

The conduct of th e bridegroom elec t should b e mark ed by -

a gal l ant and affectionate assiduity towards his lady -love— a

denouem ent easily fel t and understood but not so easy to de
’

fine T hat of the lady towards h im should mani fest de l icacy

.
,

te nderness and confidence ; W hile l ooking for his thorough

‘

devotion to herself sh e shoul d n ot captious l y tak e o ffence and

,

show airs at his showing the same kind of attention to other

ladi es as she i n her tu rn would not hesitate to receive from
, ,

the oth er sex .

I n the behaviour of a gentleman toward s his betroth ed i n

public little di ff erence shou l d be p erceptible from his de
,

m ea no ur to other l adies except in those minute attenti on s ,

which none but those who love can properl y understand or

appreciate .

In private the slight est approach to indecorous familiarit y

,

must be avoided ; indeed i t is prett y certain to be resented ,

by ever y woman who dese rves to b e a bride The lady s .

’

honour is now i n her lover s hands and h e shoul d never for ’

,

get in his demeanour to and before her that that lad y is to be

his future wife .

I t is the privilege of the betrothed lover as it is also his ,

duty to give advice to the fair one who n ow impli citly con
,

fid es in him Shou l d he det ect a fault should he observ e

. ,

failings which he would w ish rem oved or amended let him ,

avail himself of th is season so favourable for the frank inter ,

change o f tho ught between the betrothed pair to urge thei r ,

correcti on He w ill find a ready listener and any j udicious

.

counse l o ffered to her b y him wi l l now b e gratefu ll y received

and remembered in after life After marriage i t may be too .

late for advice on trivial points of conduct may then not im

probabl y be resented by the wife as an unneces sary interfer
ence now, the fair and lov ing creature is dispos ed li k e plian t
m E TI Q0 5 7 7 5 on

wax in his hands t o mould herself t o his reasonab l e wishes in

all things .

Conduct of ( 11: L a dy du ri ng ber B eirut/ ml .

A lady is not expected t o k eep al oof from soci et y on her

e ngagement n or to debar herself from the cust omary atten
,

t ions and courtesies of her ma l e acquaintances generall y but

sh e should while accepting them chee rful ly main tain such a
, ,

p ruden t reserve as to intimate that the y are viewed by her as

,

m ere acts of ordinary courtesy an d frien dship I n al l places .

of pub l ic amusemen t — a t ba l ls the opera & c — for a lady to , ,

.

b e seen with any other cavalier than her avowed l over in c l ose
attendance up on her would expose her to th e imputation of
fl irtation She wi l l naturally tak e pains at such a period to
.

observe the taste of her l over in regard to her costum e and ,

strive careful l y to fo ll ow i t for a l l men desire to have thei r

,

t a ste and wishes on such apparent trifles gratified She should .

at the same time observe much de l icacy in regard t o dress ,

and be careful to avoid any unseem ly display of her charm s

lovers are n aturall y j eal ous of observation under such circum
stances It is a mista k e not seldom made by women to sup
.
,

p ose their suitors wi l l be p l eas ed b y the g l owing admiratio n

expressed by other men for the obj ect of their passion M ost .

lovers on the cont rary we beli eve would prefer to withdra w

'

, , ,

their pri z e from general observat i on until the happ y momen t

for th eir un ion has arrived .

Co nduct of tbe Gentlema n towa rd s Me Fa mily g fi ts B etrot/zed

‘
"
.

The lover having no w se cured his position should use

, ,

discretion and tact i n h is intercourse with th e lad y s family ’

and take care that his visi ts be not deemed t oo frequent— so

as to be rea l ly i nconvenient to them He shou l d a cco m m o .

date himself as much as p oss ib l e t o th ei r habits and ways ,

and be ever rea d y and attentive to consult their wishes .

M ark ed attention an d in most cases a ff ectionate kindness to

, ,

the l ad y s m other ought to b e shown such respectful hom age

’

w i ll se cure for him many advantages i n his present position .

He must n ot however presume to tak e his stand yet as a

, ,

m ember of th e family nor exh ibit an o btm sive fami l iarit y in

,

m anner and conversation Shou l d a disruption of the en

.
.

gage m ent from some unexpected cause ensue i t is obviou s ,

that any such premature assumption wou l d lead to very em

harrassin g results I n short, his conduct should be such as to
.
 1 36 E TI QUE TTE or

n ecessary t o int out th e necessit y fo r observing grea t cau t ion

in all that re1p ip to the antecedents of an engagement that
ates
has been broken o ff ; especially the return o n ei ther side of
presents an d of all letters that have passed .

T his las t all us ion brings us to th e cons iderati on of

Cw er ondem e.
p
’

L etter-writi ng on e great test of abilit y a nd cul ti vation

15 ,

as respects both s exes T he im pe1f e ctio ns of education may

.

be to some exten t concealed or gl ossed over i n conversat i on

-

but cannot fail to st and ou t conspicuous l y i n a letter An .

ill written letter infallib l y betrays th e vu l garit y and ignora nc e

-

indicative of a m ean social posi tion .

But there i s something more to be guarded against than

even bad writing and worse spe ll ing in a corresponden ce
safi ng too m u ck— writing that k ind of matter which wil l not

b ear to be read by other eyes than those for which i t was

origina lly intended T hat this is too frequent l y don e i s
.

amply proved by the love letters often read m a court of law ,

the most a ff ecting passages from which occasion “ roars of ‘

”
laughter an d the d ei isive comments of merry -mak ing
c ounse l . O ccuri ences of th is kind prove ho w frequent l y
letters are not returned or burn t when an affair of the heart
is broken o ff C o 1 respo nd ence between l overs shou l d at a l l
.

even ts be tempered w ith discretion and on the lady s part , ,

’

p articul arly her

, a ffectionate expressions should not degenerate
i nto a si ll y sty l e of fondness .

I t IS as we l l to rem a i k here that in correspondence be

,

tween a coup l e not actually engaged the use of C hristian ,

nam es in addressing each other should be avoided .

D emea rzour qf tile Su ztar dur mg Cour /slap

’

. The m anners of a gentleman are ever characteri z ed b y

urbanity and a becoming consideration for the feelings an d
wishes of others and by a readin ess to practi se self den ial
,
-
.

B ut the very nature of courtship requires the ful l est exercise

of these ex ce ll en t qual ities on hi s part T he l over shou l d .

carefully accommodate his tone and bea ring whether cheerful ,

or serious t o the mood for the tim e of his lady-love whose

, ,

s l ightes t wish must be his law I n his assiduities to her h e

.

must allow of no stint ; thoug h hindered by time, distance ,

or fatigue he must striv e to ma k e his professiona l and soci al

,

duti es bend to his homage at the shrin e of lov e All this .

 0 0 weTSHIP AND MATR IM ON Y . w;
can don e moreover b y a man of e xcellent s ense with per
be , ,

feet prop riet y I ndeed the world will not onl y com mend him
.
,

fo r such devoted ga ll antry but will be pretty sure to censure ,

him for any short -coming i n his p e rformance of such devoirs .

I t is perhaps needless to observe that at such a p eriod a

, ,

ge ntleman shou l d be scr upulous l y neat without appearing ,

particular in his attire W e sha ll n ot attempt to prescribe

, .

what he should wear as that must of course depend on the , , ,

times of the da y whe n his visits are paid and other circum ,

stances such as meeting a part y of friends, going to th e

,

thea tre & c , with the lad y

, . .

Sfiould a Courtrfizjo ée S aori or l ong

T he answer t o this que stion must depend on the previous

a cquain tanceship connection or relationship of th e p arties
, , ,

as well as on their presen t circumstances and the posi tion of ,

their parents I n case of re l ationship or o l d acquaintance

.

ship subsisting bet ween the fami l ies when the courtship de , ,

cla ra tio n and engagement have fo ll owed each other rapidly

, ,

a short wooing is preferable to a long one shou l d other cir ,

cum sta nces n ot create an obstacle I ndeed as a general .

, .

ru l e we are disposed strong l y to recommen d a short court

,

ship . A man is never we l l sett l ed in the saddle of his

fortunes until he be marr ied He wants spring pu rpose .
, ,

and aim ; and above a l l he wa nts a Izo me as th e centre of

, ,

his e fforts S ome portion of inconvenience therefore m a y

.
, ,

be risked t o obtain this in fact i t often occurs that by wait ,

ing too long the freshness of life is worn o ff and that th e ,

generous g l ow of early fee l ings becomes tamed down to

lukewarmness b y a too prudent delayi ng ; while a s l ight
sacrific e of ambition or self indulgence on th e part of the
‘

ent l eman and a little descent from pride of station o n the

g
,

t have ensured y ears of satisfied lov e and

h
ad y s s ide mi
’

happ y wedded gfe

,
'

O n the other hand we would recomm end a long courtship ,

as advisable when the friends on both sides favouring the

match — it happens that the fortune of neither party wi l l
prudentl y a llow an immedi ate m arriage T he gent l eman .
,

we will suppose has h is way to make i n his profession or

,

business and is desirous not to involve the obj ect of his

,

affection in the di stress ing inconvenience if not th e m isery , ,

of straiten ed means He reflects that for a lad y it is an

‘

ac tual degradation however love may ennoble the motive of

,

her sub mi ssion , to d esc en d fr om her fo rmer footing in so c iety .

 i z8 E TI Q UE TTE OF

He feels therefore that this risk ough t n o t t o

, , b e incurred .

Fo r, although the nob l e and l oving spirit of a wife might

e nab l e her to bear up ch ee rfu ll y against misfortune an d b y ,

her endearm ents soothe the broken spiri t of her husban d ;

yet th e lover who wou l d wilfii lly at the outse t of wedded ,

l i fe expose his devoted he l pmate to th e ordeal of p overty

, ,

would be deservedly scouted as se l fish and unworthy T hes e .

,

then are among th e c ircums tances which warrant a length

,

ened engag ement and it should be the endeavour of the

,
’
lady s fri ends to approve such cautious delay and do all they ,

can to assist the l over in his e flo rts to abridge i t The l ady s .

’

father shou l d regard the lover in th e light of another son

added to his fami l y and spare n o pains to promote his in
,

teres ts in life whi l e the lady s m other should do everything

~
’
,

i n her power by those sma ll attentions which a mother un

,

d ers ta nds so well to mak e the protracted engagement agree

,

able to h im and as endurable as p ossible to her daughter

, .

IV .
—PR ELI M INA R Y B ri q unrrn ' ' '
or A WEDDING .

‘VHET HER th e ter m of courtship may h ave been long or

short— according to the requirements of the cas e— the ti m e
.

w ill at last arri ve for

While it is the gentleman s province to press for earli est

’
the
ossible opp ortunity i t is the l ady s privi l ege t o name the ’

pappy day ; not but that the bridegroom e l ect must after all
,

-
, ,

issue the fi at for he has much to consider and prepare for be

,

forehand : for instance t o settle where i t wi ll be m ost con

,

veni e nt to sp end the honeym oo n - a point which must depend

on the season of th e year on his own vocation an d other cir
, ,

cum sta nces A t this advanced state of affairs, we must not

.

overlook th e imp ortan t question of

The se are mat t ers that must be attended to where th ere is

property on ei t her side and i t behoves th e intend ing bride
groom to tak e care there is no unnecessary delav in com p let
ing the m .
 1 3°

pew- opener being als o rea dy, on a p inch, t o perform the

part of bridesmai d .

The ba nns must b e publi cl y read on three successi ve Sun

d a ys in the church after the las t of which if the y so choos e
, , ,

the happy pair may on the M onda y fo l lowing be

, mad e ,
’
o ne . I t is usual to give one day s previous noti ce t o th e
cler k but this is not legall y n ecessary i t being th e care of ,

the C hurch as well as the policy of the La w to throw as fe w

, ,

i mpediments as possible in the way of marriage of which th e ,

o ne m ai n fact of a consen t to l iv e togeth er d eclared publicl y ,

before an as s emblage of relati ves friends an d n eighbours , ,

( and afterwards as i t were by l egal deduction before wit

, ,

n esses ) is the ess ential and consti tuen t elem ent

, M arriage b y .

b anns excep t i n the coun try di stricts is usually confin e d t o

, ,

the h umbler classes of societ y T his is to b e regrett ed ina s

.
,

m uch as it is a m ore deliberate and so l emn dec laration an d ,

l eaves the ceremony more free from the imputation of sudden

ness Contr ivance or fraud tha n any o ther form A m ar riage
‘

, , , .

by banns i t is understood can n ever be set aside b y the aft er

, ,

d iscovery of deception or concealment as resp ects residence ,

a nd even names on ei ther side ,

The fees of a marri age by .

banns vary from H r 6d t o 1 33 6d an d 1 5 3 6d accord ing

. . . . . .
,

to the parish or distri ct wher ein the m arria ge ma y tak e plac e .

Hours in 205 1c fif a m ager may be Celeém ted

' ’

All marriages at church must be cel ebrated wi thin can oni

cal hours— that is between the hours of eight and twelve ex
, ,

t in th e case of special l icenc e when the m arriage ma y be ,

ebrated at any hour, or at an y meet and p rope r place .

By the Sta tu te of 2 3rd Hen ry V III the Arch b ish op of .

,

C anterbury has p ower to gran t special licenc es but in a c er

tain sense these are li mited His G race restricts his au thori ty
.

to Peers an d Peeresses in their own right to the ir sons and ,

d aug hters to D owager Peeress es to Priv y C ouncillors t o

, , ,

J udges of the C ourts at W estmins ter to B arone ts an d K n ights , ,

a nd to M embers of Parliament and by an order of a form er ,

Prelate to n o o ther pers on is a specia l l icence to be given ,

,

u nl ess the y allege very strong and weight y reasons for such in
dulgence aris ing from pa rticular ci rc umstanc es of the case,
.

the truth of which m ust be proved to the satisfac tion of the

 i ji

The application for a special licence is t o be made to his

Grace thr ough the proctor of the parties who ha ving fi rs t
-
, ,

ascertained nam es and par ticulars, will wai t upon his G rac e
for his fla t .

The expense of a special licen ce is abo u t twent y eight or -

thirt y gu ineas whereas that of an ordinary licence is but two

,

guineas and a half ; or three guineas where the gentleman o r

lad y or both are minors
, , .

M a rriage by L zrenee
'

An ordi nary m arriage lic ence is to be obtained at the Facult y

R egi stry, or V icar -G en eral s O ffice , or D iocesan R egistry O ffice
’
'

of the Archbishops or B ishops , either i n the country , or at

D octors C ommons, or b y app l ying to a proctor A licence
’
.

from D octors C ommons , un l ik e others , however , is available

’

throughout th e whol e of Engl and .

The gen tleman or lady ( for e ither may attend ) before apply ,

ing for an ordinary marriage l icen ce should asce rt ain i n what ,

p a rish or district the y are both residing — the church of such

rish or district being th e church i n which the marri age shou l d
gi celebrated and either the gentleman or lady must have had
his or her usual abode therein fifteen da y s before applicatio n
is made for the l icence as the fo llowing form, to be made on
,

o ath, sets fo rth

“ Vi CAR -GENER A L ’S OFFI CE ” . 1 87

APPEA R ED P E R SO NA L L Y, A B , of th e parish or dis ~

triet of in th e coun ty of a bache l or ,

of the age of 2 1 y ears an d upwards and prayed a ,

L icence for the solemnisation of matrimon y in the parish

or district church of between him and C D ,

of the distri ct of in the county of a

spinster of the age of 2 ! years or u pwards and made
, ,

oath that he be l ieveth that there is n o impedimen t of

,

k indred or al l iance or of any other lawfu l cause n or

, ,

any suit commenced in any Ecclesiastical C ourt t o bar ,

or hinder the proceeding of the said matrimony accord ,

ing t o the tenor of such L icence And h e further mad e .

oath that he th e said A b or C I) hath had his [or her

}
’
, , ,

u sual p l ace of abode within the said parish or district 0

for the space of fifteen day s las t past .

SWOR N before me ,

[Here t/ze document must be signed by Me Vzear Ga ma ].

’

or a Surrogate ap pointed by bin ]

1 33 £7 7 0 05 TTE ar .

T his davit hav ing been c omplet ed , th e licenc e is then

a ffi

ma de out I t runs thus

. .

AR CHI BAL D CA M PBELL , by D ivin e Providenc e Arch b ishoppof

C anterbury Primate of all England , an d M etropolitan T o our
. ,

we ll beloved m C hrist A B of ,
and C D of,
G rac e , , ,

an d Health — W HER EA S ye are as i t is a l leged re solved t o

0

, ,

proceed to the solemnisation of true an d lawful matrimon y ,

and that you greatl y desire that th e sam e ma y b e solemnise d

i n the face of the C hurch : W e being will ing that these y our
,

honest des ires may the m ore spe e di l y obtain a due e ffect a nd ,

t o the end therefore that this marri age ma y be publ icly and
la wfully solemnis ed m the church of by the R ector, ,

V icar or C urate ther eof without the publ ication or pro cla
, ,

m ation of the banns of matri mony prov ided there sha l l app ea r ,

n o impedimen t of kin dre d or all iance or of an y other la wful ,

cause n or an y suit comm enced in any E cclesiastical C our t t o

, ,

ar or hinder th e proc ee ding of the said matrimon y accord

b ,

i ng t o the tenor of this L icence And likewise T hat the cele

, ,

bration of thi s marri age be had an d done publi cl y i n the

aforesaid church betw ee n th e hours of eight and
,

t welve in the forenoon ; W e for lawful causes gracious l y gran t

, ,

th is our L I C E NC E A ND FA C U L T Y as well to you th e parties

con tracting as to the R ector V icar C urate or M in ister of
, , , ,

the aforesai d who is designed to so l emnise the mar

riage be tween you in the manner and form above sp ec ifi ed
, ,

acco rding t o the r i tes of the B ook of C ommon Prayer se t forth ,

for that purp ose by the authority of Par l iament .

G iven under the seal of our V I C A R G ENER A L this d ay o t ,

in th e Year of Our L ord one thousand eight hundred

and in the y ear of our translation .

Th e licence rem ains in force for three months on ly ; and th e

copy receiv ed by the person app l ying for i t is l eft m the hands
o f the clerg y man who marries the p rt ies it be ing his a u th 0 1 ity
a ,

for so do ing In ca se e ither party i s a mi n or th e age must be

.
,

stated, and the consen t of th e paren ts or guardians authori se d to

give such consent must be sworn to by the gen tleman or l ady
applyi ng for the licence Th e fo llo m ng are the p ersons having
'

l egal authority to give their consen t i n case of m i nor i ty — 1 st

th e father if dead— z ud the guardians if any appointed b y
, ,

his w ill if none — 3rd the m other if unmarried if dead or

, , ,

married 4 th the guardia n, s appointed by C hanc ery I f non e .

o f the foregoing persons e xist , th en the marriage may be legally

1 34 B TJQVE TTE OF

M a rr iage of R oma n Cat/foli a or D issenters by Licence .

By the Statute 6th and 7th W ill iam I V , 1 7th August , 1 836, .

R oman C atholics and D issenters who may wish to be married

in a church or chapel belonging to their own denominati on,
c an obtain a li cen ce for that purp ose from the Supe rintendent
R egis trar of the distric t i n which on e of th e pa it ies resides ,
after giving n otic e thereof a week previ ous to the sa me o ffi c er .

The expens e of the licence is 15 3 1 2 5 6d . .

M a rn age bej bre tire R egzrfra r

' '

Should th e parties wish t o avoid the expens e of a licence ,

’
they can do so by giving three week s notice to th e S uperin
tendent R egis trar ; which n otice is a ffi x ed i n h is office and ,

read before the proper officers when assemb l ed at the e xpira

tion of tha t time the marriage may be so l emnised in any place
which is li censed within their district The R egistrar o f .

M arriages of such district must have n otice of and atten d

.

every such marri age The fee due t o the R egistrar of M ar

.

riages for attend ing the ceremony and registering th e m ar

r iage ( b y licence ) is and for certificate 2 3 6d an d . .

without a li cence a nd c e rtificate 2 5 6d . .

M arriages a l so by th e above m entioned Act of Parliamen t

-

may u pon due notice be ce l ebrated in the o ffi ce of the Super

, ,

intend ent R egis trar w ith or without li cence or with or with

, ,

out an y religious ceremony bu t th e fo ll owing declarati ons ,

which are prescrib ed by the Act m ust b e m ade at a l l mar

,

ri ages in some part of the ceremony eith e r rel igious or other

, ,

w ise in the presence of the R egistrar and two witne sse s

, ,

viz,
I do so l emn ly declare that I know n ot of any l awful
i mp ed imen t why I A B may n ot be j oined in mat rim ony to
, ,

CD an d each of th e parties shall a l so say to each other

I call upon th es e persons here present to witness that I ,

A B do take thee, C D to be m y lawful wedd ed wife

, , ( or
husband ) .

I t is highly to th e credi t of th e p eople of this coun try and ,

an emi n ent proof of their d eep re l igious feeling that all c l asses ,

of the community have virtua l ly repudiated these M arri ages

by Act of Par l iament nor would we advise any fair maiden
who has a r egard t o the comfort and respect of h er after con
nubial life, to conse nt t o be ma rried in the R egistrar s ba ck
’
 CO UR TSHIP AND MA TRIM ON Y . 1 35

rlo ur, a fter due

proclama t ion by the Overse ers and P oor 0
-

w Guard ians .

7k B rida l Transrea n, a nd file Wedding Presents .

The day being fi xed for the wedding th e bride s father no w ,

’

presents her with a sum of money for her tr oussea u according ,

to her r an k in life A few days previousl y to the wedding

.
,

presen ts are als o made to the bride by relations and intimat e

fri ends vary ing in amoun t and v alue according to their de
,

gre es of relations hip and friendship — such as plate furniture , ,

j eweller y and articles of ornament as well as of utilit y to the

, , ,

n ewly -marri ed la dy in her future station T hese together .

,

with her wedd ing dresses &c i t is customary to e xhibi t to, .

,

the intimat e fri ends o f the brid e a da y or two b efore her

marriage .

a y f
o a B r idegroom-E lect .

The b ridegroom elect has on the eve of matrimon y n o littl e

b usiness to transact His first care is to loo k after a house
.

suitable for his future home and then assist ed b y the taste of , ,

h is chosen he l pmate to tak e steps to furnish it in a becoming

,

sty le He m us t a l so i f engaged i n busin ess mak e arrange

.
, ,
’
m ents for a month s absenc e in fact bring together a ll ,

matters into a focus so as to be readily manageable when a fter

,

the hon eymoon he shall take the reins himself He will d o .

well also to burn most of his bache l or letters and part with , ,

i t m ay be some fe w of his bachelor connections and h e

,

shou l d communicate i n an eas y informal way to hi s a cqua in

, ,

tances generall y the close approach of so importan t a change

,

i n h is condition No t t o d o this might hereaft er lead to in

.
.

conveni ence and cause n o little annoy anc e .

We must now Spea k of

B i g/ ing tbe Bmg .

th e gentleman s business t o bu y the ring ; a nd let bzw

’ ’

It i s
la ke esped a l ca re not to f orget it ; for such an awkward mis
'

tak e has frequently happen ed T he ring shoul d be we need .

,

scarce l y say of the very purest go l d but substantial T here

, , .

are three reasons for this : fi rst that i t ma y not break — a ,

sourc e of great trouble to the young wife ; secondl y that it ,

may not s l ip o ff the finger without being missed — few h its .

bands be ing pleased to hear that their wives have lost their
 1 36 En g UE T TE or

wedding r ings ; and, thirdl y, that i t ma y l as t ou t the lifet im e

of the loving recip ient even shoul d that life be protracted to
,

the extrem e extent T o get at the right s iz e required is not

.

one of the least interesting of the delicate mysteri es of love .

A not unusual method is to get a sister of the fair one to len d

one of the lady s rings to enable the j ewel l er to selec t the
’
,

proper si z e C are must be taken however that i t be no t too

.
, ,
s

large S ome audacious suitors rendered ho ld b y their favoure d

.
,

p osition have been even known presumptuous l y t o try th e

,

ring on th e patient finger of the bride e l ect and i t has rarely -

happened i n such cases that the ring has been refus ed , or sent
back to be changed .

Having bought the ring the bridegr oom should no w put i t

,

into his waistcoat -pocket there to remain until he puts on his

,

wedding vest on the m orning of the marriage ; to the left

hand pock et of which he must then carefu ll y tra nsfer i t an d ,

n ot part with i t unt il he tak es it out in the church during the

wedding ceremony .

I n ancient days i t appears by th e Salisbur M anual

,
y
there was a form of B l essing the W edding R ing before the
,

w edding day an d i n those times the priest previously to the ,

ring being put on always made careful i nquiry whether it had

,

been d u l y blessed I t would seem to be the wish of certai n

.

c l ergy men who have of late brough t back into use man y
,

ceremonia l O bservances that had fal l en into desuetude, to re '

vive this ancient custom .

Wbo sbonld be Asbea to {be

'
'
I/ Veddzng .

The wedding should tak e place at the house of the b ride s ’

parents or guardians The parties who ought to be asked are

. .

the father an d mother of the gentle man the brothers and sis ,

t ers ( their wives and husbands a l so if married ) and indeed

'

, ,

the immediate relations and favoured friends of both parties .

O ld fami l y friends on the bride s side shou l d a l so receive in

’

vita tio ns — the r a / zo na le or original intention of th is we d ding

'

assemblage being to give publ icity to the fact that the bride is
l eaving her paternal hom e with the consent and approbation
of her parents .

O n this occasion the bridegroom has th e privilege of as k

I ng any friends he may choose to the wedd ing but n o frien d
h a s a right to fee l a ffronted at n ot being invited since were , ,

a l l the friends on either side assembled the wedding break ,

fast wou l d be an inconvenientl y crowded reception rathe r ,

than an impr essive ceremonial I t is, howev er, consider ed

.
 E TI QUE TTE or

Da lia: to be Attended to Me D ay before {be Wedding .

The bride now sends white gloves, w rapp ed in whi te

pap and ti ed with whi te rib bo n, to each of the brid es
m a1 g ;
The bridegroo m does the same to ea ch of the bridegroo m
men .

O ne portion o f th e weddi ng ca k e is cut into small oblong

p i ec es and pas sed by the bridesmaids through the wedd ing
,

ring wh ich 1 5 delivered i nto the ir charge for this p urpose

, .

T he pieces of cak e are after wards put up i n ornamental paper ,

gen era ll y p in k or white ename l led and ti ed w ith bows o f

, ,

s ilver ed paper T his pleasant old custom i s however, much

.
,

o n the wane .

T he bridegroom s “ be st m an ’
on this da y must tak e
care that due n otice be sen t t o the cl erk of the parish where
the c eremony is to tak e p l ace so tha t the church may b e got
,

ready and th e clergyman be in attendance

, .

“
I t i s usual too for the bridegroo m s best ma n t o mak e ’

arrangements for th e church be ll s being rung after the c ere

m ony : the ra tio na le of this bei ng t o imp l y that i t is the
p rov ince of the husban d to call on all the neighbours t o t e
j oic e with him on hi s receiving his wife and not that of th e ,

lady s father on her going from his hous e

’
.

The bridegroom furni sh es to the bridesmaids his l is t for the

C ards to be sent to his fri ends of which hereafter .

O n the evening of thi s da y the wedding breakfas t shoul d

b e ornamented and spi ead o ut, as far as poss ible in th e ,

a par tmen t approp riated to i t .

T he bridesmaid on this evenin g als o prepare the w edd ing

s

favours wh ich should be put up i n a box read y to be con

,

vey ed to the church on the m o rning of th e marriage A .

p icturesque custom is o bse n e d i n many country w eddings ,

’
where the bride s fri ends strew her path to the church door
with fl owe rs .

V — Er rounr rn
.
'
or A We nnruo .

The parti es be ing ass embled on the wedding mornin g in

the dra wing room of the residence of the bride s father ( nu ’

l ess as someti mes hap pens, the b reak fast is s pread in tha t
,
 co weTSHIP AND MA TR IM ON Y . 1 39

room ) the happ y cor/ege should procee d to the church in the

,

following order
’
Ia the first carriage the bride s mother an d the parents o f
,

th e bridegroom .

I n the sec ond and third carriages bridesmaids , .

O ther carriages with the bride s friends

’
.

In th e last car riage the bride and her father, .

Costume
’
’
o
f {be B n a e .

A b ride s costume should be white or so me hue as close as

’
,

possible to i t Fawn col our grey and lavender are entirely

.
, ,

ou t of fashion I t is considere d more stylish for a ver y

.

y oung bride to go without a bonnet but for her he ad t o be ,

covered with on l y a wreath of orange blossoms and a C han

ti l ly or som e other lace veil : T his however is entire l y a , ,

m atter of taste ; but whether wearing a bonn et or n ot the

, ,

bride must always wear a v eil If a widow she may w ear .

,

not onl y a bonnet but a c oloured silk dress .

Cosmme of {be B n degz oollz

'
'

Fo rmerly i t was not considered to b e i n good taste for a

gentleman to be married in a b l ack coat M ore l atitude is .

n ow a l l owed in the costume of a b ridegr oom the style no w ,

a dopted being what is termed m orning dress : a frock coat ,

light trousers white satin or s il k waistcoa t ornamental tie,

, ,

and whit e or gre y g l oves .

How {be B n o esma zzi r Jboz/ ld beD ressed

' ’
'
.

Th e bridesmaids dress generall y i n pairs each two alik e , ,

bu t som etimes all wear a simi l ar costume Pin k and ligh t .

b l ue with white pardessus or mante l ets or white with pink

, ,

or b l ue are admissible colours The bo nnets i f worn must

, .
, ,

be white with marabout feathers ; but of late bonnets have

, , ,

usual l y been discarded th e bri desmaids wearing v e ils instead

, .

T he whole costume of a bridesmaid should have a very light

bu t bri ll ian t e ffect and the {ou t ensemble of this fair be vy
,

sh ou l d be so constituted in style and colour as to look w ell

by the side of and about the bride I t should be as th e .

warm co l ouring i n the backgroun d of a sun lit picture help -

,

ing to throw into the foreground th e dress of the bride a nd ,

make her prominen t, as th e principal person in the tableau .

no E TI QUE TTE or

Arr iva l o f i be Cbureb .

The b ri degroom m eets the bride at the altar wher e he '

must tak e espe cial care to a rrive in good tim e before the
hour ap po int ed .

Or der f
o Pr ocession to [be A Itar .

The fa ther of the b ride gen erall y advances with her from
the church door to the altar follo wed immediately b y the ,

bridesmaids T he fath er of th e bridegroom if present gives

. , ,

h is arm t o the bride s m other if she be present as is no w

’
,

usual at fa hionable weddings an d goes n ext to the brid es

s
,

maids The fri ends who have come with the weddi ng par ty
.

proceed next in su ccess ion .

The bridegroom wi th his groomsmen must be in readine ss to

m eet the bride at the a l tar the bridegroom standing at th e left,

hand of the cl ergym an in the centre before th e a l tar rails

, .

W e have seen on some occas ions th e bridegroom offer the

b ride his left arm to lead her to the altar but th is should be ,

avoided ; for b y so doing the whole order of th e proce ssion ,

t o the al tar becomes i nverted an d must then be arranged as ,

fol l ows
T he father or some male relative or fri end and th e mother
, ,

of the bride or i f sh e be n ot present the m other of the

, , ,

gentleman or on e of the oldest fema l e relations or friends of

,

the b ride s famil y are to lead the wa y towards the altar from
’
,

the vestry .

The friends who hav e come wi th th e wedding part y follow

next in succ ess ion .

T hen come the bridesmaids an d bridegroo m sm en in pai rs .

Th e bridegroom havi ng o ffered his left arm to th e brid e

, ,

now c onduc ts her up the centre aisle of the church to th e

a l tar T he parties in ad vance fi l e t o the right an d l eft of the
.

altar, lea ving the bride an d bridegroom in the centre .

Tbe M a r r iage Ceremony .

The bridegroom stands at th e right hand of the bride . l he

'

father stands j ust beh ind her so as to be i n readiness to give ,

her hand at the proper momen t t o th e bridegroom The .

p rincipal bridesmaid stan ds on the left of the bride read y to ,

take 0 3 the bride s glove, which she k eeps as a perq uisi te and
“
’

prize of her o ffi ce .
m “
”

2 n oor;TTE or

subm isson, her hi unility her opini on of his wisdom his pre
‘

, ,

eminence in the fami ly the right of his priv ilege and the
, ,

inj unction imposed by God up o n hen se x that although in ,

s orrow she bring forth chil dren yet with love and choice sh e ,

should obe y Th e man s authori t y is love and the woman s

.
’
,
’

love is obedience I t is modest y to advance and highly to

.

h onour them who have honoured us b y m aki ng us the com

panions of their dearest e xce l lencies for th e wom an that
wen t before the m an i n the way of death is commanded to ,
follow him in th e wa y of lov e ; an d that mak es the societ y
t be erfect and the un ion profitable and the harmon y com
pq p , ,
ete .

The R u b ric t ells us “ th e man shall give unto t he woman a

ring laying th e sam e upon the book with the accustomed
,
”
duty to the pri est and clerk T h is latter rule is however
.
, ,

not now observed i t being usual to pay the fees in the vestry
,

but to ensure th e presence of the ring a caution b y n o m eans ,

unnec essary and i n som e measu re to sanctify that emblem o f

,

a n eternal union i t is as k ed for by the cler k previ ously t o the

,

c ommen cement of the ceremon y who advises that i t b e placed ,

u pon the book .

W e pi ty the u nfortunate bridegroom wh o at this momen t

cann ot by at once i nserting his han d into th e corner ( the on e
,

most read y t o his finger an d thumb ) of his left hand waistcoat -

pocket pull ou t the wedding ring

, I magin e his dismay at .

no t finding it there —the first surprise th e growing anxiety

, ,

as the right hand pocket is n ext rummaged— the blank look

-
,

as he follows this b y the discovery that his nei th er garments

have n o poc k ets whatsoever no t even a watch fob where i t ,
-
,

m a y lie per d ue in a corner ! Amid the suppressed gi ggle of

the bridesmaids the disc oncerted look of the bride hersel f at
, ,

such a pa l pab l e instance of careless ness on the part of the

bridegr oom thus pub l ic l y displayed b efore a l l her fri ends an d ,

the half repressed disapprobation of th e n umerous circ l e

-

around h e fumbles in the coat pockets and tur ns them inside

,
-
,

out A further but use l ess search causes increased c onfusion

.

and general annoyance at length it becomes evident that the

u nfortunate ring has been forgotten I W e may observe how ,

e ver ,that in default of the ring the wedding ring of the ,

m other ma y b e used The app l icati on of th e k ey of the

.

church doo r is t ra di ti onary in thi s absurd dil emma ; and in

 Co or 7 5 21 1 ? AND MA TR IM ON Y . 14 3
-

c oun t ry churches a straw twisted into a circle has b een known

t o supply the place of the orthodo x hoop of gold l

the clergyman usually shak es hands with the b ride and bride
’
groom an d the bride s father an d mo ther and a general con
, ,

grat ulation ensues .

Yke Clerg mr ma nd Asrzirla nt Clergy mm .

The clergyman of the church is invariably invited t o at t end ,

although the cerem ony m a y be p erformed by some cleri ca l

“ ”
friend of the bride or bridegroom This is called assist ing ; .

other clergym en who may attend i n addition as is sometimes ,

”
the case are said also to assist
,
B ut as much ridicule has
.

fal len upon the adoption of this custom and as the expressio n ,
“ ”
of assisting is considered an a llectation i t is much less in
'

vogue tha n i t was ; and i t is n o longer usual to mention the

"

names of an y other clergyme n than that of the on e who p er

form s the c eremon y an d of th e c l ergy man of th e church who
, ,

should be presen t whe ther invi ted or n ot I t is indeed his .

, ,

dut y to attend and he should ins ist on so doing inasmuch as

, ,

the entry of th e marriage in the parish register is supposed to

be made under his sanction an d authority I t should n ot be .

“ ”
forgotten that the presence of an assisting clergyman e n
ta ils the doubling of the fees Th e payment of the fe es is
.

generall y entrusted to the bri degr oo m s best man, o r so m e ’

oth er inti mat e friend of his .

D if erence of R eligion .

Where the b ri de bridegroom are of di fferen t religion s,

and
the marriage i s usuall y first celebrated i n the church of that
communion to which the husband belongs ; the second cele é

b ration shoul d immediatel y follo w and upon the sam e day , .

S ome however regard i t as duly deferential to the brid e s

’
, ,

fe elings that the first ceremon y should be erfo rm ed in her

‘

o wn communion T here is a notion preva cut that in the

.
,

case of a marriage between R oman C athol ics and Protestants,

th e ceremon y must necessaril y be first p erform ed in a Pro test d

a nt church .T his is e rroneous— the order of the twofold mar a

ria ge is in a 1
, point of vi ew, of no mom ent, so long as i t
tak es plac e o n e sa me da y .
, 1 44 E TI Q UE TTE oi

Tire R etu rn to {be Veslry .

On the completion of th e cere m on y the bride is led to the

vestry by the bridegroom The bridesmaids and bridegroom 5
.

m e n fol l ow the principa l s of each taking the lead then the

,

father of the bride fo ll owed by the fa ther and m other of the

,

bridegroom , and th e rest of the compan y .

7h R e iszry
g
’
o f tbe Ala rr iage .

The husban d signs first ; then th e bri de -wife fo r th e last ,

t im e in her maiden name ; nex t the father of the bride an d ,

the mother if presen t ; then the fa ther and mother o f the

,

bridegroom if present n ext the brid esmaids and the bride

,

groomsmen then such of the rest of th e com pany as m ay de

s ire to b e on the record as witn esses All th e nam es mus t be .

signed in full The certificate of the m arri age is then hande d

.

to the bride an d sho uld be ca refully preserved i n her o wn

, .

possess ion .

M eanwhile outside the church as soon as th e ceremon y i s

, ,

c omp l eted— and n ot before for i t is regard ed as unfortunate

,

- a box of the wedding favours is opened and every servan t

,

in waiting takes care to p in one on the right side of his ha t ,

whi l e the coachmen too ornament therewith the ears of th eir

, ,

h orses I nside the church the wedding favours are also dis
.

tributed and a gay gal l ant and animated scen e ensues as

, , , ,

e ach bridesmaid pins on to the coat of each brid egroo m sm a n

a wedding favour which he returns by pinn ing one also on her
,
”
shoulder E very
. favour is carefully furnished with two
p ins for this purpose and i t is amaz ing to see th e flutter the ,

coquettish smi l ing and the frequent prick ing of fingers which
, ,

the pe rformance of th is f igu cm t and p l easan t dut y of th e wed

ding ba ch elors and ladies in waiting does occa si on !

7 h R eturn Home .

The b ridegroom n ow leads th e bride out of th e chur ch , and

th ehappy pair return homeward in the fi rst carriage The .

“
father and mother follow i n the next The rest stand n ot .

”
on the order of their going, b ut star t off in such ense as they
'

can b est contri ve .

1 46 E TI Q UE TTE op
'

costum ed for the io urney now bids farewell to her bri des
,

maids an d lad y friends A few tears spring to her gentl e

.

eyes as sh e takes a last look at th e home she is n ow l eaving .

T he se rv ants vent ure t o crowd about her wi th their humb l e

but heartfelt congratu l ations fi nall y she falls weeping on her ,

m other’ s bosom A short cough is heard as of som e on e

.
,

summon ing up resolution to hide emotion I t is her father . .

He dares not trust his voice but h o l ds out his hand gives her ,

an a ffecti onate k iss and then leads her ha l f turning back

, , ,

d own the sta irs and through the hall to the door where h e , ,

delivers h er as a precious charge to her husban d who hands ,

h er quickly into the carriage springs in after her waves his

, ,

hand to the party who appear crowding at the windows ‘

half smi l es at th e throng about th e door then amidst a shower , ,

of old s l ippers — m issi l es of good luck sent flying after the -

happy pair— gives the word and the y are o f , and sta rt ed o n
,

t he long hoped -for vo y age

-

V L — ET I QU ETT E A FT ER T im WE DD ING .

The dress of the bride during the honeymoon should be .

characteris ed by m odesty an att ra ctive simp l icity and scru

, ,

pulo us ne a tness T he s l igh test approach to s l attern l iness i n

.

costum e when all shou l d be exquisite l y trim from f li er/ f la r e to

,

( ba u rru re would be an abomination

, and assured l y bege t a ,

m ost unpl easant impression on the susceptib l e fee l ings of the

husband He wi l l naturally regard an y care l essness or indiffe
.
.

rence i n th is respect at such a t im e as a bad augur y for the

, ,

fu t ur e .

The dist ri but ion of th ese h as long been regard ed as an im

p ortant socia l duty i t devolves as we have al re a dy sai d o n
'

, ,

the bridesmaids who meet for that purpose at the house of the
,

b ride s father on th e day after th e w edding T he cards which

’
.
,

a re always furnished by the bridegroom are two fo l d — the o ne ,

h aving upon i t th e gent l eman s and the other th e l ady s nam e

’ ’
.

T hey are p l aced i n envelopes those contain ing the lady s card
’
,

having g her maiden n ame engraved or lithographed inside

the fo ld and have all been addressed some time before
,

by the b ri desmai ds, t o whom th e gen tlem an has given) a

 COUR TSHI P AND 111 A TR I M ON Y . 1 47

is t o f such of his friends as he wishes to introduce to his

l om e .

The lady generall y sends cards to all whom she has been in
’
th e habit of receiving or visiting while at her father s house .

S he too has n ow an opportunity of dropping such acquaint

auces as she ma y n ot be desirous of retaining in her wedded
life.

T his point of sending th e cards has un til recently bee n

considered as on e requi ring great care an d circumspection ,

since an omission has frequent l y been regarded as a serious

a ff ront T o those p arties whose visiting acquaintance is
.
'
’
wished to be kept u p on the bride s card i t has been the
,

custom unti l late ly to add the words At home on such a .

day But this usage is going out of vog ue

. .

T o send cards without an address is an intimation that th e

part ies are not expected to cal l except in the case of friends
who reside far away or when the marriage ha s taken place
,

at a distance I n fact the address is understood t o denot e

.
,
“At hom e ” by those who adhere to the custom it is better
, ; ,
however that those words shou l d be put upon the cards
, .

A practic e has grown up of late more particularl y wher e ,

the circle of friends is extensive to send invitations to such ,

as are not ca l led to the wedding feas t to attend the ceremon y

at church instead of issuing cards at all When this rule is
, .

observed i t is usual i n notifying the marriage in the n ews

,
”
papers to add th e words No C ards .

Visitors
’

R ecefl zon o f .

On the re turn of the wedded air from their h oney moon

tr ip , about a month or six weep s after th e wedding they ,
“A
were until recent l y expected to be t home but the
‘

, ,

formal ity of recepti on days is now genera l l y exploded In .

t imate friends whether At home cards have been issu ed

,

or not will however be ex ected to pay them a visit But

, , ,
.

if rec eption da ys have been xed the bride with her husban d , ,

and bridesmaids wi l l sit “ at home ready to receive thos e

,

to whom cards have been sent the bride wearing her wedding ,

dress and the company invited to partak e of wedding cak e

,

and wine to drin k the health of the bride .

The bride and her husband or in case he may no t be able , ,

t o att end her, the princi pal bridesmaidf -t he last of whose

10—2
1 48 E TI QUE TTE OF

o fficial d uties this is — usuall y re t urn all th e wedding visit s

paid t o them T hose who may have called on the brid e
.

without having received wedding cards should n ot have their

visits returned un l ess special reason exists to the con trary
, ,

such visit being deem ed an impolite intrusion .

T hese return visits having been paid th e happy pair cease ,

t o be spoken of as br ide and bridegr oo m but are henceforward ,

sty l ed the newly marri ed coup l e

-
and then all goe s on as
if they had been m arried twent y y ears .

V IL - Pna crrca r Anvrcn . TO A NEW LY-MA R R IED

C O U PL E
.

O ur advice to the husban d wi l l be brief L e t him have no .

concealments from his wife but remember that th eir interests

,

are mutual ; that as she must su ff er the pains of every loss

, ,

as we ll as share the advantages of every succ ess in his ca reer ,

i n l ife she has therefore a right to kn ow the risks she may be

,

m ade t o un dergo W e do n ot say that it is necess ary or

.
,

advisab l e or even fair to harass a wife s m ind with the de

, ,
’
’

t ai l s of busin ess ; but where a change of circumstances — not

for the better— is an ticipated or risked let her by a ll m eans ,

be m ade acquainted with the fact in good tim e M any a .

k ind husband a l most breaks his young wife s fond h eart by ’

an alteration in his manner which she cannot but detect but

, ,

from ign orance of th e cause very probably attributes to a

wrong m otive ; while h e poor fe l lo w a ll the whi l e out of
, ,

p ure tendern ess is endeavouring to conceal from her tidings

,

—which must come out at l ast — o f ruined hopes or failure i n

specu l ation ; whereas had she but kn own the danger before
,

hand she would have a ll eviated his fears on her accoun t an d

, ,

by cheerful resignation have taken out ha l f the sting of his

disappointment L e t n o man th ink l ightly of the O p inion of
.

h is wife in t imes of d ifii culty \Vo m en h ave genera l ly more

.

acuteness of perception than m en ; and i n mom ent s of peril ,

or in circumstances that involve a crisis or turning point in -

l ife they have usuall y m ore resolution and greater i nstinctive

,

j udgment .

W e recommend that every husband from th e fi rst shoul d

m ake his wife an allowance for ordinary household e x pe nses
—whi ch he should pay w ee kly or m onth ly— a nd for the ex
1 5° E TI Q UE T TE OF

which will in all probab il it y e ngage th e greater part of his

, ,

thoughts for he will now be desirous to have i t i n h is power

,

to procure vari ous litt l e indulgences for his w ife s sa k e which

’

h e n ever would have dream ed of for his o wn He c omes to .

h is home weary and fatigued ; h is young wi fe has had but

h er pleas ures to grati fy or the quiet routine of her domesti c
,

duti es to attend to whil e he has been to iling through the da y

,

t o enable her to gratify th es e pleasures and to ful fil these

duties L et then the dear tired husban d at th e close of his
.
, , ,

d aily labours be made welcome by the endearm ents of his

,

loving spouse— let him be free from the care of having to

satisfy the caprices of a petted wife L e t her n ow take her .

turn in paying those many little love begotten attentions whi ch -

m arried m en look for to soo the them — let her reciprocat e

that devotion to herself which from the early hours of their
, ,

l ov e h e cherished for her by her ever ready endeavours to

, ,

m ake hi m happy and his hom e attractive .

In the presence of other pers ons however marri ed people , ,

shou l d refra in from fu l some expressions of end earment to

each other the use of which althoug h a common practice is
, , ,

reall y a mark of bad taste I t i s desirab l e a l so to caution

.

them against adopting the too prevalent vu l garism of call ing

each other or indee d any person whatever merely b y the
, ,

i n itia l letter of their surnam e .

A married woman shou l d always be very careful how sh e

r eceives personal comp l iments S he shou l d never court them.
,

no r ever feel flattered by them wheth er i n her husband s pre

’
,

sence or n ot I f i n his presence they can hard l y fail to be

.
,

distas teful to him if i n his absence a l ady by a dignified de , ,

m ea no ur m ay a l ways convince an assiduous admirer that h is

,

attentions are n ot we ll received and at onc e an d for ever stop ,

a ll fami l iar advances In case of insult a wife should im

“

.
,

m ediate l y mak e her husband acquainted therewith ; as th e

only chance of safety to a vi ll ain l ies in the c oncealment of
such things by a l ady from dread of consequences to her hus
b and From that moment he has h er at advantage an d may
.
,

v ery likely work on de l iberate l y to the undermining of her

character He is thus enab l ed to p l ay upon her fears an d
.
,

tau nt her with their mutua l secret and its conce alment until ,

sh e may be invo l ved gui l e l ess l y in a web of apparen t gu i l t

, , ,

from which she can n ever extricate he self without risk ing th e r

happiness of her fu tur e l ife .

No t the leas t useful piece of advice homel y though i t be -“

that we can offer to newl y ma rr ied ladies , i s to rem in d them

 co UR TSHIP AN D M A TR I M ON Y . 1 51

that husbands are men and that men must eat We ca n tell
,
.

them moreover that men attach n o sma l l importance to th is

, ,

very essential operation and that a very e ffectual way to k eep

,

them in good humour as we ll as good cond ition is for wives

-
, ,

to study their husband s p ecu l iar likes and disli k es in th is

’

matter L e t the wi fe try therefore if she have not alread y

. , ,

done so to get up a little k now l edge of the art of o rder ing

,

dinner to say the least of it T his task if she be disposed to

,
.
,

learn it wi ll in time be easy enough m oreover if in addition

, ,

she shou l d acquire some practica l knowl e dge of cookery sh e ,

wi ll find ampl e reward in the grati fication i t wil l be the means

of a ffording her husband .

Servants are di ffi cu l t subj ects for a young wife to handle

she gen erall y either spoi l s them by indu l gence or ruins them ,

by fi nding faul t unfair l y A t la st they either get the better

. .

of h er or she is voted too bad for them The art lies in

,
.

steady command and m anagem ent of you rse l f as we l l as them .

T he we ll known D r C lark who was a l ways well served used

- .
, ,

to say ,
It is so extreme l y di ffi cu l t to get good servants that ,

we should not lightly give them up when even to l erab l e M y .

advice is bear a l itt l e with them and do not be too sharp ;

, ,

p ass by litt l e things with gent l e re preli ensio n now an d then

a l itt l e serious advice does far more good than sudden fau l t
h uding when the o ffence j ust l y occurs I f my wife had not .

acted in this way we must have been continua ll y changing

, ,

and nothing can be more disagreeable in a fami ly and indeed , , ,

”
it is genera l ly disgr ceful a .

An observance of the few following rules will in all proba

bi l i fy ensure a life of domestic harmon y p eace and com , ,

To hear as little as p ossibl e wha tever is to the prej udice of

oth ers to believe nothing of the kind un til you are compel le d
to admit th e truth of it n ever to take part in the circu l ation
of evil report and idle gossip a l ways to moderate as far as ,

possible harsh and unk ind expressions re fl ecting upon others ;

,

a l ways to believ e that if th e other side were heard a very dif ,

ferent account might be given of th e matter .

I n conclusion we say emphatically to the ne wly wedded

,
o

wife that attenti on to these practica l h ints wi l l pro l ong her

,

h oneymoon throughout the whole period of wedded l ife a nd ,

cause her husban d as each year adds to the sum of his happi
,

ness to bless the day when he fi rst chose her as the nuc l eus
,

round which he might consolidate the in estimable blessings o f

HO M E .
rs: E TI QUE TTE OF co weTSHIP ,

Ho w fair is ho me in fancy s pi ctured them e

’

l l
, ,

I n we dde d ife , in o ve s ro m antic dream 1

'

T hence s rings e ach ho pe, there e ve ry spring re turnl ,

p
P ure as t e flame that u pward heave nward bu rns ;
l
T he re sits the wi fe, who se radia nt sm i e is given
l
T he dai y s un o f the d o m e sti c he aven ;
l
And whe n ca m e ve ni ng she ds a secre t po wer,
l l
Her oo ks o f o ve im para dis e the ho ur ;
l l
Whi e chi dre n ro und , a beaute o us train, appear,
Atte ndant stars, revolvin in he r sphere
i w ”
.

lo m no s Hope: hi ch!
'
 HO W TO D R E SS WE LL
"
‘

1 54

s ent of a fe w rows of bright coloured beads or a small piec e -

,

of looking glass and the most trumpery E uropean ge wgaws

-

have el icited more admiration a fforded greater pl easure a nd , ,

e ffected more goodwi ll tha n the m ost costly treasures could

,

urchase among civili z ed nations A love of finery seems to

p
.

elong to human n ature T here is an attraction in bright and

.

sh owy colours which the unc ivi l i z ed cannot resist and which ,

is equall y p o werful among those wh o are civiliz ed though ,

education and other causes may qualify it .

W hen we hear persons l oud l y dec l ai m ing against dress as a

need l ess waste o f t i me and mon ey— when we hear them sigh
,

ing for the return of the good old tim es when it was n ot so
m uch considered we are tempted to inqu ire at what perio d
,

i n the history of the world those times occurred for we can

n ot l earn that it was at any time considered to be an unim
, ,

p o rtant ite m of exp enditure or thought W e do not by an y .

m eans af firm that i t m ay not occupy too much care ; that

there may n ot be instances i n which i t is su ffered to e ngross
the mind to the detriment of other things more worthy of con
sideration that i t may not l ead to frivolity and extravagance .

All this may be and n o doubt often is true

, I t i s qu ite p os , .

sible and m ore than probab l e But we a l so maintain that i t

, .

is a great m istake to com e down upon it with a sweeping de

nunci a ti o n and in Quaker fashion avow i t to be a ll van ity
, , , ,

and assert that it must be trodden o u t of thought and eye .

E ven the Quakers themselves who a ffect suc h sup erciliou s ,

contempt for dress are v ery particu l ar about th e cu t of their

,

headgear about th e shade of their greys an d their drabs an d

,

their browns and in their scru pu l ous n eatness sho w that

, , ,

they think as much of a grease spot or a stain as many a dam -

se l does of th e ribbon in her cap or the set of her co ll ar an d

cu ffs So that after a ll whatever professions peop l e ma y
.
, ,

m ake human nature and human wants are a l way s the same
, .

I t by n o means follows that a person who is we l l dresse d

th inks a gi ea t deal about i t or devotes much tim e to i t T o , .

some persons i t comes quite natura ll y T hey look well in .

whatever they wear ; a nd the p1 o ba bility 1 s that it occupies l ess

of their time and thoughts than many who arrive with infinite ,

m ore labour and pains at a less p l easing resu l t , .

I n submitting this manual t o th e pub l ic we do not pi esume ,

to do more than offer such suggestions as may promote a better

s tyle of d 1 ess consistent with a c u e rega 1 d to econom y
, No l .

doubt m an y of our suggestions wi ll have occurred to some o f

our readers and i t ma y seem almost n eed l ess to hav e mad e
,

them, b ut we k now b y e x perience in other things that ma x im:

 HO W TO DRESS WE LL . 1 55

are o ften forgotten and laid aside till something occurs to te

vive them .

I t i s eas y enough for th e ri ch t o be i n ha rmon y with the

prevailing fashion T hey have but to open their purse strings
.
,

and pay for an y of those freaks of fancy which are cal l ed

fas hion T o combine a good sty l e with econom y requires
.

j udgment and contrivance or what is general ly ca l led , , ,

managemen t .

T here ar e c ertain points which ma y be considered as funda

m ental without which the most rigid attention to m atters of
,

dress wi l l go for nothing Fo r instance cleanliness which .

, ,

accord ing to the o l d proverb is rated so high as to be p l aced ,

next to god l iness is one of these and of pr i mar y importance

‘

, , .

T he most cost l y atti 1 e i f unaccompanied by i t i s not on l y

, ,

valueless but may become a pos i tiv e disfi guremen t while th e

, ,

simplest dress combined with cleanliness may be absolute l y

, ,

refreshing T here is n o reason whatever why the most menial

.

occupati on shou l d b e admitted as any excuse for want of

persona l clean l iness I t is a l ways easy to disti nguish between
.

accidental d irt which cannot always be avoided an d that ,

which is habitual .

When i t is considered that th e obj ect of nine tenth s of -

womankind is that they may marry and sett l e i n l ife as thei r ,

fathers and m others h a ve don e before them i t is very natura l ,

that they should endeavour to mak e themselves as captivati ng

as they can ; on l y let them a l l bear this i n mind —let their ,

rank and station be what it may — that no man is caught by ,

the m ere d isp l ay of fin e c l othes A pretty face or good .

,

figure may capt i vat e but fine clothes never Though i t is

, , , .

said that fin e feathers mak e fine birds y et n o man will be ,

caught by a trimming or a fi ounce .

T o wh at end then sho uld attention b e given to dress ? W hy

'

should i t be m ad e of so much consequence as to write a

m anual upon i t ? Because i t is one of beauty s accessories ; ’

because as dress of som e kind is abso l utel y n ecessa ry and in

dispensable i t is better that people of a ll c l asses should dress
,

we l l rather than i ll and that when i t is done i t should b e

, , ,

don e sensib l y and reason ab l y ; without carelessness on the

o ne hand and withou t extravagance on the other
, W hen we .

may why shou l d we not choose the best and most becoming ?
,

\Vl1 y are we to m o i ti fy o u1 selves and annoy our fri ends b y

choosing someth ing because it is espe cial l y h ideous ? N0 la w ,

human or divine , enj oin s us to dis fi gure ou rselv es .

i s6 HOW TO DRESS WELL .

II .
—T A STE IN D R ESS .

I N dr ess, as in most other thin gs there are t wo kin ds o f ,

”
taste good taste and bad taste \Ve use the word taste .

”
in a sense quite distinct from style I t is a disputed p oin t .

whether real l y good taste can ever be acquired or whether it ,

i s only inherent W e are disposed to thin k that i n its m ost

.
,

perfec t form i t is inborn ; but that education association

, , ,

familiari t y with it may and often does arrive at the same re

, ,

su l t
. Fo r instance a person who has always lived on close
,

a nd intimate terms with those who are conspicuous for their

good taste becomes so fa m ilia1 iz ed with certain expressions of
,

thoughts and ideas habits of min d and standard of l ife that

, , ,

h e u nconsciously adopts them vi ews th ings from the sam e ,

point and wa l ks m the sam e groove qu i te i rrespective of the

, ,

natu1 a l tendencies of his own mind Persons who have n o .

natural gift or talent for painting ma y acquire a know l e dge of ,

th e art so as to pronounce with tolerable correctness of judg

m en t upon the works of the o l d m asters from m erely asso cia t ,

ing with those who are conversan t with the subj ect liv ing ,

a mongst the p ictures themselves or from hearing discussions ,

upon their respect i v e merits In fact man is an imitative

.
,

animal and can adapt himsel f very readi l y to the circum

,

stances by which he i s surrounded as well as acquire from ,

o thers th e resu l ts of their deeper research and greater ex

erie nce L iving m an atmosphere whe 1 e good taste prevails
p .
,

i t is not won der ful that h e shou l d acqu ire that power of dis
c rimination by which the selection of what is becoming and
harmonious is m ade easy .

T here is n o doubt that dress is a ver y fair index of th e

m ind of th e wearer Who but a W idow Barnaby wou l d
.

wear a bright emerald gr een satin dress in the m orning and a ,

bonnet profusely or namented with large and bri ll ian t scarl et

fl owers Y et we have ourse l ves seen a l ad y of amp l e dime h ,

sions and advanced years simi l ar l y attir ed and cou l d think

, ,

of n othing but on e of those large gaudy macaws which are t o

be met with i n every z oological garden W ho that had any .

rega1 d for his own l iberty wou l d mari y such a strong minded ,

preten tious da m e ? W ho cou l d endure for l ife the vulgarit y

of mind that s uggested such a costum e for a fete in the
country on a hot summ er s day ? There are som e persons ’

who think to overpower their n eigh b ours by the splendo ur o f

their attire .
1 58 HO W TO D R ESS WE L L .

colour ; li k e the on e string of a musica l instm m ent which, ,

being out of tune creates a d iscord throughout a l l the res t

, .

V a riety i n col our i s another great defect in dress quite ,

apart from the questi on of their harmony A multip l icity o f .

co l ours though n ot i n the mselves inharmon ious is never

, ,

p l easing I t fatigu es the eye which cann ot fi nd any repose

.
,

where i t is d isturbed b y so man y colours A bonnet of one .

co l our a gown of another with trimmings of a third a

, , ,

m a ntle of a fourth and a paraso l o f a fifth c olour can n ever

, ,

form a costume tha t will p l ease th e eye I t is laid t o the .

charge of English p eople that they are especia ll y fond of

,

this k ind of dress whereas a French woman wi l l dress much

,

m ore quietly though by n o m eans less expensive l y ; but i n

, , ,

her choice of colours she wi l l use very few and tho se well ,

as sorted Fo r i nstance a grey gown and a white bonnet

.
, ,

relieved by a black lace shawl or velvet mantle indicate a ,

refinemen t which ma y be l ook ed in vain where the colours of

the rainbow prevail Among we l l dressed persons it wi l l be
.
-

found that quiet co l ours are always preferred \Vl1 a tever is .

gaudy is off ensive and the use of many colours constitutes

,

gaudiness B irds of gay p l umage are sometimes brought

.

forward to sanction th e use of man y brigh t colours Th e y .

are indeed worthy of all admi ration s o a l so are fl owers in ,

which we find the most beautiful assortment of colours ; bu t

nature has shaded an d blended them together with such e x

quisite ski ll and del icacy that the y are p l aced far beyond th e
,

reach of a ll hum an art ; an d we thi nk they are to use the ,

m ildest terms both bo l d an d unwise who attemp t to repro

,

duce i n their own persons with the aid of si l ks or sa tins the

, ,

marvellous e ffect of colours with which nature abounds .

And yet i t m ay be observ ed i n n ature how gay colours are ,

neutra l i z ed by their accessories ho w the gr eens vary in ton e

and tint according to the bl ossoms which the y surround T he .

infinite shades an d depths of colour with which nature i s

fi ll ed render i t impossible for anyone to attemp t to imitate i t
beyond a c ertain p oint of general harmon y T h is is now .

m ore genera ll y understood than i t used to be ; but still we

often stumble across som e g l aring instance i n which a gaud y
e y e and taste have been a ll owed t o run riot and the resu l t ,

has be en the reproducti on of something not very unli k e a bed

of tulips ;
I t is in a host of littl e things such as these that good tas t e
lies and shows itse l f W e remember an in stance of a lad y
, .
,
who was conspi cuous among her fellows fo r her exquisitel y
good d aste in dr ess, being se verel y comm ent ed upo n by two
 11 0 W TO DR ESS WE L L . 1 59

sho wuy- dressed women wh o were the wives of wealth y ,

.

merchants i n one of our great seaport towns T his lady a p -

.

pea re d in church quiet l y dressed in black with a handsom e ,

I ndian shawl of which the co l ours were subdued and won

,
“
d e rfully blended The two represen tatives of the no uveau x
.

”
riches looked at the l ad y and then at each other ; they
turned up their noses and shrugged their shou l ders and gave
, ,

vent to their fee l ings as they ca m e away from church i n

, ,

loud exclamations of dis d ain W e ll ! did you ever ? No

I n ever did and she a l ady too Fo r their part they would
b e ashamed to wear such a shabby o l d shaw l T he shawl .

was worth about its weight in gold but because it was not
sh o wy i t found no favour in their eyes
, .

As i t is so intricate a matter and one of which a very ,

slight thing can turn the sca l es i t is not easy to lay down ,

rules by which good taste may be acquired B ut there are .

i nstances of bad taste which can be avoided and among them ,

there is one wh ich is se l f evident and does not re l ate either-

,~

to harmony or to variety of col ours W e a ll ude to the good .

taste of dressing according to our means and station .

T here is an impression i n the minds of some persons that ,

fi n e feathers mak e fine birds and that the worl d in genera l ,

thinks more or less of them according to the dress they wear .

T herefore in order that they may impose upon their n eigh

,

bours by thei r outward appearance and as chi l dren say; , ,

make be l ieve that they are richer than they reall y are they
-
,

dress beyond their means a nd at the cost of much privation , ,

of even the n ecessaries of l ife mak e a display which they are ,

n ot warranted in mak ing W e have known those w ho have .

p inched themselves ti l l they have brought on actua l i ll ness ,

or have laid the foundation of a fata l disease in order that ,

they might dress themse l ves i n a sty l e beyond their position

i n life In France this is often the case
. A lady who i n .
,

her ordinary attire is as s l ovenl y an d as shabbi l y dressed as

,

a l most the very beggar in the street wi l l appear at some ,

evening party most exquisite l y dressed and wi l l carry on her ,

back the savings acquired by months and y ears of p enurious

self d enial
o
.

W e respect those wh o struggle hard to m aintain their

hereditary position and reverence within certain l imits the
,

spirit of endurance which bears i n privacy the changes o f

fortune in order to keep up a becoming appearance in th e
eyes of the world B ut we have n o sympathy for those who
.
~
‘

h aving n o such excuse ha ving no high lineage and to who m

,
'

fortune has no t b ee n u nk ind , stint and Scna w that the y m ay

.
 2 60 HOW TO D RESS WEL L .

impos e u pon their n eighbours with the n otion that the y are
be tter o ff than th e y real l y are — better off i n m oney and , ,

bet ter off in position I mposture of th is k ind we confess we

.

have n o patience for W e are very into l erant of it I t is a

. .

vu l garity which wherever it may be found is most offensiv e

, , .

W e go even further sti ll and are disposed to b l ame a l l who

, ,

whatever their circumstances or condition may have been or

m a y be dress beyon d their means
, I t is p oss ib l e that som e .

re lics of p ast grandeur may yet rema in to be worn on s tat e

oc casions With that n o on e can quarre l but i t is a m istak e
.

t o make great and unwarrantable sac rifices in order t o re

pleni sh the exhausted wardrobe on its former sc ale of mag
ni ficence I t is better far to accept fate t o comp l y with th e
.
,

i nevitab l e an d n ot waste t im e and strength in fighting agains t

,

the iron gates of d estin y N0 one whose es teem is worth .

,

ha ving w ill respect us les s b ecause we dress accord ing to our

,

m eans even if those m eans shoul d have dwindled into ins ig

,
.

nifica nce B ut if we to il undu ly to make ourselves appe ar

.

t o be som eth ing that we are not we sha ll earn contempt an d ,

reap d isa ppo m tme nt I t is far more noble-minded to bi d

.

farewell t o all our gr eatness than t o catch gre edily at an y o f,

the outly ing tinsel that may remai n here an d there T hi s .

i ndi cates good taste m ore th an an y thing T o be what we .

are really and simpl y and wi thout pretens ion is on e of the

, , ,

greates t proofs of good feeli ng which in matters of dress, ,

reso l ves itself into good taste .

T her e is nothing more hateful than pretension The fable .

“ ”
o f the Frog and the Bu l l illus trates the absurdi ty of i t .

Y et i t is of every day occurrence and we contin ual l y meet

-
,

with instanc es of it Persons in humble class of life will

.

often ape their betters dressing after them an d absolutely , ,

going wi thout necess ary food i n order to ge t some p iece of

fi nery Fin e gowns of inconveni en t length ex panded over
.
,

large crinolin es — s ilk man tles ri chly trimm ed — often con ceal ,

the coarsest scan tiest, and most ragg e d undercloth ing

,
We .

h ave seen the mos t d im inutive bo nne ts n ot bigger than

‘

saucers ornamented with beads an d fl owers and lace and

, ,

back ed up by ready made chignons on the heads of girls

-
,

who are only on e degree removed from the p oor -house

'

S ervant girls who can scarcely read much l ess write — who do
-
, ,

no t know h ow to spell their nam es - wh o have low ,

and as littl e children had scarce l y sh oes t o their feet -who

, , ,

p erhaps never saw fresh m eat in the ir homes except at ,

C hristm as wh en it was given them b y some rich neighbour

, ,

spend all their earnin s on t h eir dress a

g , ppear on Sund ay s ll
 8 62 HO IV 70 DRESS IVE L L .

Good taste i n dress is a qu es tion which is b y n o means, ,

above the considerati on of old and elderly women Th ere .

are some who n ever can i magine themselves old W hether .

i t is owing to the ete rn al youth of their m in d and spirits or ,

to th ei r vani ty we do n ot pretend to say but on e thing is

,

c ertain that aga in and again have we been bo th amus ed and

disgusted by the way in whi ch ol d women dress th ems elves .

A l ady with whom we were acquain ted us ed to dress i n blue

or white gauz e or t arlatan or any light material she could la y ,

her hands on when she was past ezlg/zty and she vainly im
, ,

a gine d that with an a flecta tr io n of youth in her gait and wi th

’

, ,

th e aid of the ro uge po t she c oul d conceal her age She

, .

wou l d trip into the room l ike a young gi rl wi th her li ght gos ,

samer dress float ing aroun d he r as if she were some sy l ph in a

b al let Sh e was a wonderful woman for her age and n o
. , ,

d oubt had been so accus tomed to the remark s that were con
,

tinually m ade upon her agi l it y and appearance tha t she had ,

a t l as t grown to think herse l f almost as young as she was six ly

y ear s ago I t was but th e other day that we saw an ol d

.

woman with grey hair wear ing a littl e hat plac ed coquettishl y
u pon her head w ith a large ch ig non of gre y hair fill ing up
,

th e back ! S ometim es we have see n o l d women spu m ing

the sober tints \\ l] lCl1 accord with their years and comi ng ou t ,

dressed lik e Queens of the M a y i n garlands and flowe rs ; an d

wea ring bonnets that would be t rying even to a belle of eigh
teen But when people resolutely refus e to accept the fact
.

that th ey are no longer young i t is not surp rising that the y ,

shou l d run into some extremes and o flend agains t good tas t e
'

by dress ing in a style utterl y u nsui ted to the ir years And .

y et there is n o m ore pleasing sight than a good -look ing old

woman who is neither afraid or ashamed to recogniz e th e
,

fact of h er a g e an d wears th e quiet and sober colours which

,

b elong to her years m odifyi ng the fas hion of the day to s ui t

,

herself that she m ay n either ape t he young nor afi ect to revi ve

'

in her own person the fashio ns of by gone da ys Afiectatio n

'

-
_
.
_

Of a ll k inds is detes table .

S o als o there are rul es for the y o ung wh ich if attend ed to , , ,

will prevent their o ffend ing a g ainst good taste The youn
of all peo ple wi thout excuse The freshness of y o utg
.

are, , .

has a b eauty of i ts own which needs but little outward adorn

m en t T he ravages of time have n ot to be repaired
. Youth .

h a s ch a rms of its o w
n an d the more simp ly it is attired the
,

better E verything i s in favour of the y oung W hen the y

. .

adopt ela borate or rich toilets when they mak e flo we r gar ,

-

dens of t h eir h eads, or we ar strong and glaring colours, the

 HOIV TO DRESS WE L L . 1 63

cha nces are that the y d is figure themselves A y ou ng gi rl .

should never mak e herse l f conspicu ous by her dress L e t it .

be as good as she p l eases as costly as she can afford sti l l let , ,

i t be simple and unobtrusive L e t the general e ffec t be pleas .

ing and grateful to the eye bu t at the same time let i t be im

possible t o say in what i t consists or to remember her o n ,

accoun t of any peculiari t y in it I f she is beautifu l let her .

,

dress aid her beauty by not drawing away the attention from
i t If she is plain let her not attract a ll ey es to her p l ainness
.
, .

L e t not peop l e say of her D id you see that ug l y girl with ,

”
that scarlet feather in her ha t F or with that bonnet ,

covered with pear l beads contrasting with her dark and ,

” “
sa ll ow comp l exion ? or wi th that bright green go wn which
'

, ,

made her look so bilious ?

I t is i n small things as well as in great that good taste
, ,

shows itself Wel l fitting gloves an d boots things of smal l

.
-
,

m oment i n themselves tell of a neat and refined taste Quiet

, .

co l ours well assorted ; an absence of gl are an d display n o

, ,

thing in extrem es betoken a correct eye and good taste

, .

I t is then in the harmony of colour ; in the us e of a few

, ,

colours at one and the same t im e ; i n dressing according to

their means according to their stati on as we l l as according to
, ,

their age that people may be said to show their good taste i n
,

dress T here are doubt l ess other p oints of detail which wi l l

.
, ,

suggest themselves to the m inds of our readers ; but we are

confiden t that if attention is given to the points which it has
,

been our w ish t o place prominent l y before them there wi ll be ,

fewer of those startling peculi arities a nd ecc entriciti es which

o ffend against good t aste .

TIL — FASHION m DR ESS

I t is ve di fficul t to say what constitutes Fashi on We allo w .

our Frene neighbours to prescribe what we shall wear and ,

at certain seas ons of the year Eng l ish m il l iners of any pre ,

tens ion flock to Paris to learn their lesson and on th eir return ,

to L ondon announce to the pub l ic and to their customers

,

that they are prepared to e xh ibit the greatest nove l ties in sty l e ,

form and colour which they have been able to procure The
, , .

v ari ety that is presented as having been j ust imported from

,

Paris convinces us that there exists every where even in thé

, ,

great French ca pital itself, the great est po ssible diversit y o f

1 1— 4
 1 64 HO W TO DRESS WE L L .

taste ; and if we ma y j udge from the extraordinary specimens

,

which are in troduced t o our notice we should infer that the ,

Parisian taste is b y no means faultless .

W e do not mean to insin uate that a really well dressed French -

w om an i s n ot better dress ed than most Eng li sh women or that ,

the French have not a p eculiar knac k of putting on the ir c l othes

t o the best advantage for there is n o doubt upon the matter .

B ut if we may be a ll owed to j udge from the examples brought

,

o ver to us in the shap e of bo nnets an d head dresses and other -

,

articles of a lady s toi l ette we shou l d say that there must be a

’
,

c onsiderable inc l ination am ong o ur foreign neighbours to what

is both gaudy and vu l gar .

When anyon e comp lains to a milliner of the styl e of an y of

the articles she h as on sale she rep l ies that sh e is ob l iged t o
,

p rovide for all kinds of taste ; that i t wou l d n ot answer her

purpose to limi t her supp l y to those who have a faul t l ess eye
that in order to make her business succeed she must be pre
, ,

pared to accommodat e all persons and cater for them a ll alike , ,

studying to please each individual in whatever way she may

b e dispose d to be pleased and never presuming t o d o m ore
,

th an merel y suggest some slight improvement or modificat ion .

L adi es are apt to tak e o ffence at their ta te being too severe l y s

criticiz ed and dressmakers do not al ways find it th e easiest

,

p ossibl e task to steer c l ear bet ween securing their own repu
ta tio n as artis tes of fashion and good taste and avoiding ,

giving o ffence to their patron esses I t i s the pub l ic who are .

t o b l am e \Vhen some on e remonstrated with B raham for his

.

florid an d vu l gar styl e of singing h e rep l ied it was the peop l e

, ,

an d not he who was at faul t I t was a l ike h is duty and ih

.

terest to pl ease th e pub l ic and not to instruct it

, He sang t o .

be li stened to and encored not to be hissed and snubbed I t

, .

does not answer for any t rad esman n ot to be able to suppl y

what his custome rs demand .

I t i s the pub li c who are to bl ame If they insist upon being .

suppli ed with certain arti c l es of consumption or of dress th e ,

shopkeepers have no a l ternative but to supply them I f l adies .

prefer what is ug l y and m isbecomi ng the dres makers have to ,

s

m ak e it . I t is th e old story over aga in of the demand crea t ing

th e suppl y .

T here w ill always be p erson s who do n ot k now how to dress

W ell ; who have ideas of their own t o which the y are deter
m in ed to give ex pression W hen the y th in k they are doing their
.

best and are bent upon asto nishin the world they someho w
,
o
,

appear to the wors t advanta g e The y endeavour to n val the ir

'

ne igh bo urs in strength i “

ariety of colo urs; and, if th ey see a
'
15 6 3 0 IV TO DRE SS P
VE L L .

was te of m one y or the necessi ty of al way s being a little b ehind

,

the fash i o n of the day B esides which as this cap ricious god
.
,

dess has prescrib e d what shal l be worn for driving for wall! ,

i ng for morning n oon and night an d demi to ile ttes and fulh
, , ,
-

dress toilettes have each their o wn p ecu l iari ties i t real l y be ,

c omes a very serious item of expenditure for such la dies a!

mak e it the business of their lives to fo l low the fas hi ons of the
nay .

Fashion prescribes rul es for all All class es of soci e y bow .

t
,

m ore or less to her decrees

, The fine l ady who frequ ents the .

C ourt as well as the servan t girl who sweeps out the area of
,
-

a L ondon lodging-house and all the i nte rm cd ia te cl a sses are

’

, ,

guided b y Fashion C rino l in es and bonnets prove this as w ell

.
,

a s th e length of the sk irts which are su ffered to trai l along i n

all the dirt and dust o f pa vement and crossings I t always .

takes some time before a fashion which has bee n adopted by

th e higher orders prevails am ong th e lower bu t i f i t is a fash ,
~

io n which survives beyond the moment i t inva riably fi nds its ,

wa y downward in th e course of t ime Fa shicn p rescri bes th e .

siz e and shape of bonn ets the make of gowns their l ength
, ,

and their si z e — the num be r of breadths and gores — the tr i m ;

mings the petticoats, whi ch have become lik e a s cond gown,

,
e

’
and all the other paraph ernal ia of a lady s t o ilette There i s .

n o part of a l ady s dress too m inute for her it ;pectio n and ca re

’

a nd legis l ation T he colour of g l oves the dy e o f hai r th e a p

.
, ,

plication of false hair the mak e of boots and sh oes the choi ce
, ,

cf ornaments are a ll ordered and a rranged

, Fashion is a sort .

of act of uniformit y which wou l d bring all flights of fanc y

,

within certain prescribed l imits I t defi nes the bo unda riw .

within which ladi es may safely in du l ge their own conceits .

The best dressed p ersons are n ot al ways those who are le d

-

blindfold b y the prevailing fashion n or b y an y means the“ ,

who are strong minded enough to defy i t, and set i t a t nought

-
.

Any one who defies the fashion of the day and when lon , ,

skirts and small saucer lik e bonnets prevail dares to wal

-
,

abroad with ve ry short petticoats which she holds up 1111 ,

:

necessari l y high d is l aying a foot an d ank l e that had bet ter

,

be hidden out of sig t who spurns a crinol in e and therefore ,

Bo oks like a whip ing p ost who wears a man y colou re d -

shawl because cloap s and mantl es are the rage who adorn s
her hea d wi th a bonnet that is of the coal scuttle cut ov er -
,

which she fastens a large coloured gau z e veil b ecaus e she , ,

d esires to protest as far as sh e can against th e innovati ons o f

,
.

fashi on such a one will never att r ct nor influence th e publ i c a

,

mnd She will provoke a smil , but will n ever recom md

i
.
e
 HO W T O D RESS WE L L . 1 67

her o wn peculiar and independen t sty le of dress And she .

who follows fashio n like a slave wears what is prescribed ,

without regard to her own personal appearance ; who con

siders neither her age n or her fi gure nor her station nor h er
, , ,

m eans ; who simp l y allows herself to be an advertisement for

l

the mi l liner she emplo ys w ill often appear eccentric and

“

, ,

g e n erally i ll-dressed .

I t is n ever su fficiently considered that every on e has her

”
po ints and that nothing so much o ffends as discrepancies
,
.

W e remember a discussi o n upon fema l e beauty when ih ,

stances w ere brought forward o f persons wh o were cons icu

0 11 5 for thei r good looks but who could not boast 0 o ne ,

real perfect feature T he ff “

e ect of the tout ensemb l e ”
.

w 0 0 d and most attractive but when the faces were pul l e d

, ,

to pi eces i t was impossibl e to say in what the beauty con

,

sisted O ne of the critics wise l y said that it was to be foun d

.
,

in th e perfect harmony of feature and expression All th e .

featur es wer e on the sam e scale n o one feature overpowered

the o ther an d the expression cal l ed into activity all features
,

a l ike so that there was perfect unit y and harmony throug h

,

out T o compare sma l l things with great we should sa y that

.
,

this supp l ies a good ru l e for dressing well T here shou l d be .

n o discrepan cies I t should be harmon ious n ot on l y in itse l f

.
, ,

but harmonious with the person W hom it is in tended to adorn .

I t should be i n keeping with face and figure N0 two persons .

”
are exactly al ike E very one has her points which con
.
,

stitu te her beauty and her charm and these points have to
be attended to carefu l ly A woman who does this with.
,

due regard to the rules of fashion will always be we l l dressed , .

“
She w il l not buy or wear a thing simply because i t has j us t
”
c ome from Paris nor be infl uenced by mil l iners and shopmen
who assure her that the ugly article they ex hibi t is origin al in
,

shap e and st y le T hough fashion dictates and she foll ows

.
, ,

y et she fol l ows i n a way of her o wn She is n ever beh in d .

fashion and never in advance of i t

, Perhaps her most ad .

“
mired to ilette has been made at home under her own e y e, ,

which has directed ho w far a compliance with the pre

vailing fash io n suits her She does not staitle the world wi th
.

a comb ination of strange colours n or entertain her friends ,

with a pecu l iarit y of style and make W hat she wears is .

p rettily arrange d wel l made and well put on an d the effec t

, ,

is both pleasing and refresh ing and peop l e inquire what hous e ,

in Paris she patroni zes She is p rud ent ; and keeping her o wn
.
,

se cret does n ot o fle nd the fastidiousness of her fashionabl e

'

fri ends by l ettin g the truth eke out, that her much adm ire d -
 1 68 H O W TO D R E SS WE L L .

Parisian “ toilett e
is in every se nse of hom e produce but -
, , ,

s miles at their approval and follows her own plan which is

, ,

so successful in its resu l ts He r costum e is not expensive and

. ,

sh e contriv es that whatever sh e wears shal l not o ffend against

,

the laws of Fash ion while she declines to b e its s l ave

,
She .

i s not addict ed to sh a m j ewel l ery ; she has n o weakness for

tinsel . W hat she wears is good of its kind even when it is ,

no t costl y : Wh erever she goes she impresses every on e wit h

'

the fact that she i s a tru e gentlewoman She k nows what is .

suited t o her stat ion and age and withou t conceit under , , ,
”
s tands what are her points She is well aware that n o .

woman can a fford to be indi ff erent to her personal appearance ,

a nd that no law human or divin e, requires her to disfigure ,

h erself . A married woman has to bear in mind that she must

d ress n ot only to please her husband but a l so t o reflect credit ,

u pon his choic e The unmarried to impart to herse l f as pre

.

possessing an appearance as will be like l y to attract the oppo

s ite s ex Neither before o r after marriage can an y woman "

neglec t her pers on with impunity No r can she set her face .

e n tirely against the fashions of th e day She may modify .

them to suit herself and to bring out her , p oints but she
cannot safely disregard or defy them .

Fashion gives as it were th e key n ote — supplies th e hin t

, ,
-
,

which is taken and fol l ow ed as p eopl e can I t is absurd to .

s uppose that its laws are stringent and not elastic or that a l l , ,
”
pe rsons must conform exact l y to its dicta W ho shall sa y .

that all must dress a l ik e ? T all an d sh ort fat and lean stout , ,

a nd sc raggy c a nnot be made equal l y subj ect to the same rule

, .

I n such a matt e r as dress there must be some margi n a l lowed

fo r individual peculiarities Nature has not m ade us a l l in
.

th e same m ould and we must be careful n ot to a ffront natur e,

b ut must accept her gifts and mak e th e best of them .

T here is one poin t conn ected with the fo ll owing of fashion

which requires some attention and which if attended to , , ,

will pres erve us from incongru ities \Ve a ll ude t o th e dis .

o s itio n of som e p ersons t o u se various fashions together .

”
hey are inclined to be eclectic T hey select from by .

gone fashions and end eavour to blend them with those which
,

prevail The resu l t is a pain fu l in congruity W ho wou l d ‘

. .

d ream of placing a G recian portico to an E li z abethan bui l d

i ng P W hy then endeavour to combin e o l d fashions w ith n ew ?
Why attempt t o wear a bo nnet of almost primitive form with
d resses of modern dimensions and style ? or why wear flounces
when they are ou t of fashion , an d full s k irts when everything
“
is gore int o plainness ? I t is n ec essary to pa y some at
1 76 11 0 W TO DRE SS WE LL .

t o the decrees of fashion or to the i deas she would

that so much li be rty is all owed W e thin k tha t the resu t is
.

m ost satisfactory as there is an infinite varie ty to please the

,

e ye, and there are abun da n t opp ortunities for every on e to

attend to her o wn comfort an d eas e Of course there have .

been and still are certain fashions which are quite “ di

, ,
”
rigueur among the rea lly fashi onable w orld and which
c, ,

annoyi ng to the public generally such as large c rinolin es and

,

l ong ski rts and more especi all y the long trai ns whi ch are
,

no w in vogue C rinolin es though red uc e d in si z e are not

.
, ,

d iscarded except i n some instances which as our ey es are

, ,

no t yet accus tomed to their absence present a scarcel y decent ,

a pp ear ance .

O ne word more b efore we close th is div ision of our subj ec t .

I f persons are incli n ed t o rail against Fashi on and denoun ce

i t let them remember tha t there is a fashion i n every thi ng
, .

I n thou ht i n politi cs in physic i n art i n a rchiteesdre 1 n

g , , , , ,

science i n speech i n lan guage and even i n3pelagro n we fi nd

, , ,

fas hion to have a g uiding and governing p ower Ho w .

w e otherw ise accoun t fo r the ( m a nge which has tak en place

in langu age which i s no t th e sam e that i t was fifty y ears ago
,

T here are hm es w hi ch have become obs olete there are

p
w ords wh i ch have been alm os t lost out of our vocabulary ,

fl i ch ha ve changed their meaning or whi ch fashion has ,

tabooed And in other matters we fi nd a l te rations which ca n

.

o nly b e accounted for by the fact th at fashions change T hey .

are not the result of development simply wh ich may a nd ,

must frequently occur i n sciences but they are the r esult of

those variations in custom and usage for wh ich i t is impossibl e
to find any m ore express ive word than that of Fashion .

W hy then should not dress nave its fashi ons als o and ,

should not those fashions change as t im e advan ces, an d

should no t fashion rule in this as in oth er thin gs ?

IV —Exransa
. or DRESS .

This isa port ion of our subj ect which awak e ns the live
li est in terest in persons of bo th se x es I t 1 5 th e compla int o f .

m any men of our t imes that the dres s of women is a very

costl y a ffair The complain t 1s often made apparently under
.

a se nse of wrong as if they had been made to su ffe r from i t

, .

S o me time ago con sid erabl e a tt ention was d ir ect ed to the

 HO W TO D R ES S IVE LL . 1 7!

su bj ec t by some letters which appeared in on e of the leading

j ournals of the day i n which gr ave reflections were made
,

u pon the exceeding costliness of dress at the present t im e .

I t was said to exceed that of any former age and to b e the ,

reas on why so m any young men fl inch from the idea of matri
m ony Among these requirements dress occupies a promi
.

nen t place T h e sty l e an d variety of dress which is a ffi rme d

.

t o be n ecessary for y oung l adies in the highest grade of

societ y renders i t n o eas y matter for them to find men both
qualified an d willing to a flo rd them sufli cient funds to procure
'

what custom had cr eated into a n ecessity I t ma y be owing .

to the quantity of material which the dres makers require in s

order to make a dress as we ll as t o the varie ty which fashion

,

h as prescribed At all events let people say what the y may

.
, ,

we believe that there is n o doubt whatever that the expense

of dress has become v ery much gr eater than i t was t hirt y
y ears ago A dressmaker coul d then make a very first rate
.
-

gown suited to any function at C ourt or elsewhere for ten or

, ,

twelve p ounds whereas no w th e m ost ordinary gown suit

, ,

able t o wear onl y at a fami ly dinner part y cann ot be made -

,

for l ess than fourteen or fi fteen pounds A ball gown will .

cost eighteen or twen ty p ounds ; and in Paris a thousand

fra ncs ( forty p ounds ) is considered nothing out of the wa y
, ,

and eve ning and bal l dresses often c ost two thousan d francs
each I t is not s nrprising th en that i f this is the ordinary
.
,

expense of a lady s d ress men s ho uld h esita te befo re they

’
,
‘

embark in matrimon y and add so large an item t o th eir e x

,

pend iture W e remember to have heard it said that five

.

hundred a y ear pin money was a very small allowanc e for a

-

y oung married woman that i t wou l d require the m ost won

d erful managemen t to enable h er to dress well and keep
within her income O f course every one knows that there
.

are man y women who dress upon infinitely less but we are
speak ing of those who profess t o dress well and whose p os i ,

tion i n soc iety requi res them to be well dressed .

W hat then is the reas on why dress has becom e so e xpen

sive P I s i t because th e materials which are i n use are cost l y ,

or is i t because the needlewomen are better paid and wages , ,

’
being high er dressmakers charges are also higher i n propor
,

tion ? W e d o not b e lieve that eith er of these are the cause ;

b ut simply that a larger quantit ”
y is required an d that variet y ,

has become a sin e qua n on S om e y ears ago the cost of a

- -
.

s ilk dress was about half what i t is now — not because the ric e
p ,

o f sil k has in crea sed but because a much lar er qua nt1 t is
,

re quired .Perhaps of the two , s il k is cheap er t n i t u to

1 72 HO W TO D R ESS WE L L .

be but where ten an d twelve y ards sufli ce d t went y and ,

twent three are scarcely sufli cient

- T hen th e variety that is .

cousi ered indispensab l e adds to the cost of dress Where .

three or four dresses constituted the wardrobe of many three ,

t im es that number are now considered a scan ty supp l y Som e .

ladies do n ot like to wear the sam e dress twice at the sa m e

place and if they visi t in the country take with them l ug
, ,

gage enough for a twelvemonth and appear dai l y and in , , ,

s ome instances three times a day in som e fresh costume I t

, , .

may perhaps b e said that these are e xceptional cases but the y ,

are not so L adies -maids servants and even vi ll age girls

.
, ,

have more gowns n ow than persons of the same c l ass had

formerly T his adds to the cost of dress and m ak es it a l to
.
,

gether a m ore expensive a ffair than i t used to be Our fore .

m others who rej oiced in farthinga l es had n o doubt th e m ost , ,

c ostl y att ire but it lasted l onger and became the inheritance
, ,

o f children and children s chi l dren besides which their ward

’

robes were not b y an y means so expensive as that of a grand e

”
d ame of 1 8 75 .

M aterials are an imp ortan t element in th e matter of dress ,

a nd we propose in the few remarks we shal l ma k e on th e

,

s ubj ect of expense to o ffer som e suggestions which shall tend

,

to mak e it less .

I n the first pl a ce every y ou ng lady is w ithou t excuse wh o

Spends a large sum annua ll y upon h er dress for she possesses ,

in her y outh that which makes the m ost simp l e and inexpen .

s ive attire the most suitab l e and becoming E verything is a p .

pro pria te to youth The freshest flowers of the garden the

.
,

plainest mus l ins tarlatans and tu l les do not come amiss In

, .

th e country fresh flowers are more admissible than those that

are arti ficial In L ondon it is the reverse The heat of a
. .

crowded ba l l room soon mak es the brightest fl owers wither

-

besid es which th ere would be an a flecta tio n in a y oung lady s ’

'

m aking her appeara nce i n a L ondon ba ll room decked l ike -

,

the goddess Fl ora with rea l fl owers while a ll the world

, ,

prefer the artificial as the l east troublesome and the most

e nduring .

Fo r the young cheap an d inexp ensive materials are often

,

the m ost e ffective Heavy si l ks and satins are out of place

. .

I t is more a question of co l our and make than materia l Ho w .

o ften a bright green and white m us l in or even cotton we l l , ,

m ade and we ll pu t on worn by a pretty girl with a g o od

,
”
complexion and graceful tournure puts t o sham e a nd ,
“
thorough l y ec l ipses a more cost l y and elaborate toilette
Ho w o ften we hav e be en charm ed by the appearance, at the
1 74 HO W TO D R ESS WE LL .

c ostl y b u t th e fact is tha t thi s is an age in which p eopl e are

,

m ore dispos ed to ape their betters than to dress according to

their me ans I f however the y desire to Spend onl y a sm all
.
, ,

sum they must tak e some trouble about it an d must con trive
, ,

how to pro duce a good result with simple and even comm on
materia l s .

T he great i mprovemen t in muslins and in cal icoes — the good

patterns which are print ed on co mmon l in ens — have ma de i t
quite inexcusable for p eople to dress ill S om e of the pret .

tiest costu mes that we have seen have been m ade in ch ea p

materials and pe rsons who have adm ir ed them have be en
,

quite astonished to fin d that the y have bestow ed their admira

“ ”
ti on upon an inferior art icle .

Fo r autumn wear th er e are camlets alpacas an d serge o f , ,

“
all colours which are designated Yachti ng and Sea side
,
-

”
C ostu mes but which are su itable for all places
,
T heir e f ect .

is exce edingly good braid ed or oth erwise ,

T he y ma y be got .

anywhere though C owes boasts of havi ng th e bes t assort

,

ment W e have seen whi te braided with black or wi th a

.
,

pattern pri nted on i t in black blue l ight and dark bro wn ,

gr een bra ided i n white the e ffec t of which has been good ; ,

and we have seen scarlet which i s very try ing an d more , ,

suited for win ter I t is e ffecti ve wh en toned do wn with bla c k

.

velvet but i t loo ks rather h eav y an d overpowering

, .

Fo r winter there are droguets reps in worst ed and in si lk

, , ,

m erin os t weeds li ns eys and velveteens W e do n ot men

, , , .

t ion si l k because i t is un iversall y acknowledged tha t there is

,

n othing so we ll suited to all seas ons I t looks better than .

anyth ing else is the p l easantest to wear an d m a y be pro

, ,

cur ed of alm ost an y substance V elveteens hav e a very good .

effect better tha n most materials an d when they are bra ide d
-

well they are very e flecfi ve T he b l ack loo ks the b es t an d

, .
,

is the m ost serviceable ; and when worn with a m antle or ,

cloak or j ack et to match i t m a kes one of the bes t costum es

, ,

for w al kin or dr i ving T he brown velveteen i s e ffective . .

I t is cousi ered warm and light — two most importa n t quali ,

ties for clothi ng for wi th the amplitude of mode rn sk irts i t

, ,

is absolutel y essential that m aterials should b e light as well

as warm .

Fo r spr ing and summer it is n ee dless to speci fy m ore ma

teria ls than have been already named The only poin t to be .

c onsidered is that in sp ring dr ess shoul d be i n our uncertain , ,

c l imate s uited to changes of weather and t emperature and

, ,

should be in harm ony with th e season when nature is

putt ing o n her b es t ap pa rel , and woods an d fi elds beco me
 11 0 W TO DRESS WEL L . 1 75

hourly more green and ful l of vegeta ti on In summer d re ss .

,

should be light and cool and quiet b ecaus e beneath a glow ,

ing sun bright colours do not please unless they harmoniz e

, ,

wit h th e blue sk y or green earth .

Th e second important point i n matters of dress is th e ma k e

or cut Upon this depends the question whether cheap m a
.

te ria ls can be worn An ordinary stuff or calico well made

.
,

fashionably made and well put on is never out of place I t

, , .
,

not unfrequently pu ts to shame many richer materi als whic h

,

are not so well made nor so well se l ected .

Th is question of ma ke or cu t ( call i t which y ou please ) is

no t su fficiently considered espe c iall y by th e y oung, .

Some peopl e th in k n o one can be well dress ed wh o is not

e xpe n ively dressed whose go wn is not richly t rimm ed but
s
,

i t is a great mistak e M any p ersons are absolutel y ill dress ed

.
-

wh o spend a for tun e upon th e ir cloth es .

T he y oung should bear in m i nd that simplicity is what har

m oni z es best with y outh but care must be t ak en to avoid the
,

simplicit y of the school room and of a miss in her t een s ”

-
.

W e can cal l to mind a y o ung lad y who m ade her appearance

at an evening party i n L ondon wh er e all the world and his ,
”
w ife were collected together an d when i t was necessary to ,

be somewhat smart in a rather sk imp spotted muslin wi th a

, .
,

b l ac k belt and a few black ch erries i n h er ha ir She loo k ed .

,

as the reader wil l easil y b eli ev e lik e a y oung lad y i n her ,

”
t eens who as By ron sai d
, , sm ells of bread an d butter
, .

She was much on the wrong s id e of twenty By her side .

stood a young girl who had not pas sed nineteen summers ,

dressed in the freshest costume of p l ai n white tul l e with b right ,

t urquois e blue flowers in her h air th e very impersonation of ,

y outh and lov el in ess The cost of the dress of thes e two
.

y oung ladies was abo u t the s ame but the appearance of th e ,

t wo was b y no means the same The one was fresh and .

simple ; th e other s imple but unfresh T he one attract ed ; .

the o ther repell ed At the same t ime we saw two s isters

.
,

one a blonde and the other dark dressed unadvi sedly alik e in ,

d ark blue tarlatan with an infinite n umber of beads round

,

the body pep l um and sleeves I t was in the heigh t of

, , .

sum mer an d the costume looked fus ty and o pressive whil e

,

n ot far o fl stood a young girl in a whi te an green tarlatan

'

dress prettil tr immed with old lace and green ribbon with ,

on e large w ite flower in her hair— the very t ype of spring

and ear ly summer None of these costumes w ere e x pe nsive
.
,

b ut they had widely di fferent results .

We r eturn t o our former asser t i on th at i t is the make which

1 76 11 0 W TO DRESS WEL L .

renders a co mmon m ate1i al wearabl e in an y — e ven the very ,

best societ y .

I t requires of cours e a k n owledge of the prevailing fashion

, , ,

which may easi ly be arri ved at by the simp l e proc ess of taking
”
i n L e Fo ll et or som e good month l y pub l ica tion on fashions
, .

I t re quires a l so a correct eye an d a good taste to select such

materials as shall harmoni z e wel l with the styl e which is i n
favour I t requires above al l a good work woman who
.
, , ,

k nows how to cut out how t o put i n the gores h ow to ar , ,

range the bre a dths where to put the fulness where to mak e
,

the dress full an d where tight h ow to avoid creases h ow to

, , ,

cut the sleeves and h ow to put them in how to give the arm
, ,

s ufli cient room so that the back shall n ot pucker how t o cut ,

the bod y so that sh ort waisted ladies sh all n ot seem to hav e

t oo short a waist n or long waisted ladies too l ong a on e
,
- .

’
T his importan t question of a good lady s maid is on e upon -

which d epends th e probabil ity of being we l l dress ed and

economica ll y dressed It is absolute l y necessary for a person
.

of moderate means to whom the need l ess out -l ay of a shi l ling

.

i s of rea l importance to mak e her things a t h om e If she

, .

cann ot mak e them h erse l f she must fin d a clever n eedle ,

~

w oman who has l earn ed her business and knows mi ll iner s ,

’

hraseology and th e meaning of terms and how to cut out to th e

pest advan tage She wi ll then be able t o use common m a
,

te ri al buy sma l ler quantities of them and wi ll always look

, ,

well dr ess ed Her go vm wi l l always be ironed wh en i t wan ts

.

i ron ing i t wi l l be m ended whenever a stitch has broken

loose the co ll ars and cu ffs wi l l always be clean and of the
right shape and si ze and n o on e will enquire into the quali ty
a nd cost of the materi al of wh ich the e ff ect is so p l easing .

A lady s -maid that is quick and e ffi cien t is the best frien d

’

a lady can have who wishes t o be well dress ed and at a sma ll

e xpens e She saves her wages again and again
. Bu t not s o .

w ith a lady s maid who does not understan d her bus iness I f
’
-
.

sh e is alw ays requ iring assistance and cannot make th e ,

simp l est gown withou t a n eed l e woman t o he l p her an d wi l l ~

,

no t attempt a sm ar t dress at a ll or who m ak es i t so sl ow ,

that either th e oc casion for which i t is requi red s l ips by or a ,

m uch l onger notice is necess ary than the m ost fashionable

dressm ak er wou l d dem and i n the very height of the L ondon
s eason instead o f being useful sh e is an incumbrance The
, , .

dressm ak er s bi ll is not avoided A steady lady s mai d who is

’
.
’
-

quick at h er needle an d quick with her eye can alwa y s com ,

mand good wages and a co d place an d the y who possess ,

such a trea sur e will never e w il i n g to part with her

’
.
1 78 HO W TO DR ”5 5 WELL .

V .

T HER E are an in fi nite variet y of things wh ich are necessa ry in

order to mak e a woman thoroughly well dress ed which do ,

n ot come under the category of dress es S om e of th ese mus t .

b e discusse d as th ey a re of great im portance

, .

T o begin with bonnets Ho w much of a l ad y s toilette de

.
’

p ends upon her bonn et up on i ts mak e i ts sha p e i ts sty le

-
, , ,

an d the materi als it is made of 1

I n th es e days bonn ets ar e much l ess ugl y than th e y for
,

m erl y were T hey are n ot set at the b ac k of the head as

.

they used to be when they made every woman look as if her

,

neck ha d been brok en T hey o ffered n o advantage T hey did

. .

n ot screen the fac e from sun and wind and n o ladies could ,

k eep the m on th e ir h e ads wi thout the help of long p ins l ik e

skewers Th e bonnet as now worn scarcely des erves the n am e
.
, ,

o f a bonnet I t is m ore l ik e a cap th an a bonnet ; but such

.
,

as i t is i t i s exceedingl y becoming to the young more

,

especi all y th e styl e which has most rec entl y come into fashi on ,

in which whil e i t ties behind below the chi gn on or l arge pl ai t

, ,

of hair l ong ends of tu lle or l ace or blonde fall roun d the

, , ,

cheek and fas ten under the chin with a broo ch or a fl ower
, .

Th e e ffec t of the lace against th e face is very preferab l e t o

that of the fold of ha rd ribbo n which was generall y worn and ,

wh ich was utt erl y devoid of a ll grace B esides whi ch we .

,

h ave h eard ladies praise the las t fashion as be ing the most
comfortabl e because the absence of s trings fas ten ed under the
,

chi n enab l es th em to eat and sing and t alk wi thout th e , ,

n ec essity of taking o ff th e bonnet or of unty ing it Th e e x ,

.

treme ligh tn ess of the m od ern b onnet is in itself a great reco m

m enda tio n But if a bonnet is intended as a protec tion to the
.

h ead fro m sun wind and rai n then i ndeed i t mus t be

, , , , ,

allowed that the present fashion does n ot fulfil any of those

i ntentions A small saucer of tulle or three -corn ered bit of
.
,

lace ornamented wi th a few flowers which fi ts on the head in ,

the small space that in terv enes be tween the front hair and the
begi nn ing of the chign on where i t stops in order that th e huge
,

m as s of hair n ow worn at the bac k of the h ead may be full y

e xhibited does n ot do more than make a very pretty toilette
, .

Useful and serviceab l e as a protecti on i t is n ot B ut when it , .

is con trasted wi th bo nne ts whi ch were worn a few y ears ago ,

o r with thos e which our mothers an d gran dm o th ers wore we

,
c onfess tha t we are lad of the cha nge
g
No l ad y ought to be indifferent abou t her bonnet I t is to
.

her face wha t the s etting is to a j ewel The arrangement o f .

 H0 W TO DRESS WE L L . 1 79

the lace or blonde th e wa y it accord s with th e coun t enance ;

the ha rmony of colour with the rest of the dress which in ,

s ome in tan ces i t ton es down by its quietn ess and in others
s
,

b rightens an d freshens by i ts contrast a l l these are poin ts to

be considered It is imposs ible n ot to be guided by fas hio n
.

in the selection of a bonn et and the sam e fas hion w ill pre
,

scribe how i t is to be trimmed but as a rule we protest agains t

, , ,

b eads and tinsel of all kinds If beads must be used they .

,

shoul d be used sparingl y W e saw a bonnet this y ear whic h

.

was noth ing but black beads which were des ignated by th e ,
”
h igh sounding nam e of
- bl ac k p earls The bonne t was .

heavy and very ug l y and when we remonstrated against i t

, ,

we were assured it had j ust arrived from Pari s — as if the a n

no uncem ent of such a fact was i n itse lf en ough to silence all , ,

obj ections But it had n o e ffect upon us for th e bonnet was

.
,

obj ec tionable on every ground— o n account of i ts weight and

appearanc e .

I n L ondon as i t is necessary to have a succession of b on

,

n ets which soon become discoloured and spoi l t b y the soo t

,

and dirt of ou r grea t m etropolis all that rea l ly signifies is ,

that they should look fr esh and clean and i n hanno ny with ,

the dresses with which they are worn and th erefore i t is im

portant they shoul d be cheap T o gi ve three guineas and eve n
.

moe an d p erhaps five for a bonnet which w il l last for on ly

, ,

on e month is an expensive proceeding ; and when i t is con

sid ered that rea lly pretty bonnets can be bought for eightee n
shil l ings which look quite as we ll as those which are more
,

cos tly they are without excus e who do n ot manage to have

,

al ways one nice l ooking bonnet for specia l occasions

-
.

W e have known some ladies who are c l ever and wise

enough to m ak e thei r o wn bonnets and the n the cos t of them ,

is about fi ve or six shi ll ings each I f the lady s m aid 1 5 c l ever .

’

and handy and kn ows how to mak e them she wi ll probably

, ,

mak e them quite as wel l as a ny professed milliners All that .

is required is to understand what fi ts and suits the person for

whom the bonnet i s i ntended E very one finds that o ne .

sh ape sui ts her better than another T he next poin t in ma k in g .

'

“
a bonn et is that the artiste should have a ligh t hand ,

an d shou l d mak e it o ff hand withou t letting it l ie abou t ,

to get soi l ed or tumbled T hings which are n ot e xp ensive

.
,

but are made of common materi als shou l d look fnesh I f ,

.

the y have that m erit n o one wi ll exam ine them very cl osely
,
.

to see whether the lace i s real or the fl owers of the fi rs t ,

qu ality Satisfi ed wi th the general e ffect and style n o ih

.
,

q i es will be insti tut ed i n to the cost of the materi als Peo

—3
.

13
xso H O W T O DRE SS WEZ L .

ple are n ot so particul ar where their ey e is pleased On the .

c ontrary where th e e ffec t is good cheapness increases i ts

, ,

val ue i n the estimati on of those who know that on e an d one

m ak e two .

No one can m ak e b onn ets or indeed any k ind of head gear ,

-
,
“ ”
without one of those hideous fi gure heads cal l ed bloc ks -
,

u pon which the bonnet or the ca p is m ade without ri sk o f ,

i nj ury T his i s the on ly way i n which the m i ll iner can form

.

a ny idea of the e ffect of her handiwork She can turn i t .

about t o get the fu l l side and back vi ew of her performanc e

, , ,

w ithout touching the artic l e i n questi on which if it is mau l ed , ,

a bo ut ever s o litt l e soon l oses its freshness

, .

As we have long ago discarded th e p icturesqu e from bon

nets and the famous
,
chapeau de pai ll e has been laid
a side there is an advan tage in the fact that the present sty l e
,

is unobtrusive ; and strong minded women who c l ing tena -

c io usly to their beloved o l d coal scutt l e shape and deride the -

,

present fash ion i ndign ant l y exc l aiming against it

, C al l that ,

thi ng a bonn et indeed , certain l y t empts us t o reply t o their

prej udiced and absurd reflections Physician hea l thyself , ,

fo r if there i s one thing more ugl y than another i t is th e old ,

fashion ed bonnet with crown curtain and pok e to which a , , ,

few old maids rigidly adhere — j ust as Quakeresses do to their

h ideo us and an tiquated styl e T here is a kind of se l f righ .
-

t eo usness in the prot ests of these l adies with which we con ,

fess that we have n o sympathy W e do n ot mean to reco m .

m end them to adop t the bonnet of a gir l of eighteen but we ,

d o advise them to conform to the fashion of the day and wear ,

a m odified ed ition of the presen t and prevai l ing costum e .

I t is remarkable how straw always retains its hold as a

m aterial for bonnet s A straw bonnet is h owever a m ore
.

, , ,

e x pensive article than one of tul l e but then i t is more endur

i ng an d better suited for country wear T here is a l so another
,
.

a dvantage in straw i t never looks vulgar A country Lass in .

a bo nnet of si l k or lace or tulle does n ot l ook one ha l f as

, , ,
-

w ell as one in a straw bonnet n eat l y trim med S traw is be

, .

c oming to persons of all ages and of every station I t makes .

a vulgar woman look less vu l gar and the lady m ore refined , .

T hough comm on i t is n ever so in an o ffensive sense

, .

C a ps have become an importan t item from the fact that ,

Women of all ages wear something of the kind T he young .

girl who has pass ed from gir l hood i nto matrimony considers ,

i t nec essary that some of those l ittle caps m ade of lace an d

r ibbons and wh ich have such a coquettish look abou t them ,

should form part o f her trouss ea u She is as g l ad to exercis e .

1 82 HO W T0 DRESS WE LL .

fective shoulders Fo r gra ce there is n othing like a scarf

.

shawl but only a few can or k now how to wear i t

, , , .

Under these circums tances a cloak or a mantl e are safer .

T here is an infini te vari et y to choose from but as th e names ,

a nd the fashion vary year by y ear it is useless t o speci fy an y .

Fo r the same reas on this constan t change i t is best not t o in

, ,
s

v est much capital i n the purchas e of one Young p eop l e can .

w ear small er and shorter mantles than th eir elders who requi re ,

somethi ng larger and more imposing .

I n winter there is nothing to compare to a seal skin ; so

m uch so that even an im itation is not to be despised V e l vets .

are lady l ike but they are expensive and have not th e dura
, ,

b ility of a seal skin V e l veteen cloaks are good an d reason

.

able B l ue c l oth or serge braided with black look we ll and

.
, , ,

have been i n favou r for some time Vt e have seen a grey .

’

c l oth c l oak braided w ith b l ack which has been much adm ired
‘

also one of dark green cloth lined w ith gre y and vice vers a , , ,

o f grey l ined with green Fo r winter the e ffect of lining a

.
,

cloth cloak with another colour i n good contrast i s decided ly

good B ut every thing depends upon th e shape an d cut of the
.
-

cloak I t is th e shap e that te l ls far m ore tha n the m ateii al

. .

I n Fran ce we find gloves and sh oes have a prominen t p l ac e

among the accessories of a lady s toi l ette T o be bie n
’
.

”
chausse e e t bi en gantee is essential to being well dressed .

G ood well fi tti ng gloves an d shoes tell more than m ost other
,

things among the Fren ch At least a somewhat shabb y an d

.

unpretend ing gown and bonnet if accompanied by gloves that ,

are of a good quali ty an d co l our and that fi t we ll an d b y ,

sh oes or bo ots that als o fi t well and ar e of good style and m ak e

, ,

w il l p ass muster any where while the revers e wi l l fail

, .

I t is remark able that there is noth ing which distinguishes a

foreign er from an Engl ish wo m an more than her g l oves T h ey .

fi t lik e a g l ove th ey are of a good colour according well ,

with the rest of th e costume n either too light nor too dark
, ,

but rather light than dark T here are n o ends or corners of

.

the fingers which are not wel l filled there are n o creas es in
d ica tive of the g l oves being of a wrong s iz e n or are they put ,

on crooked with a twist given to th e fingers so that the seam s ,

o f the glove do n ot appear straight I n sh ort a French .

,

woman does n ot put on her glove anyho w as an Engl ish

woman does T o her it is a matter of great impmt ance ; t o
.

our country woman i t is a matter of indi fference W e think

- .

th e Frenchwoman right because it is b y what are called trifles

,

th at good and also great e ffects are produced .

We com e n ow to an accessory of c on siderable i mportan ce

 H O W TO D RESS WELL . 1 83

-the hair . As a grea t amount of time i s e x pen ded upo n

hair -dressing, and as n o o ne ever thin k s of wearing i t in its
natural stat e and as nothing is more under the influence o f
,

fashion than the hair i t has become b y consent of all an a c

,

cesso ry of grea t importance W ill an y one affi rm that it is a .

matter of indi fference how the hair is dressed ? Wh ether iri

p l aits or bows W hether in a crop or twisted up in a coil ? ,
’
T here is nothing which a ffects a lady s personal a p e arance
m ore than the styl e in which she dresses her hair e con .

fess that we have a strong prej udice against a too subm issive
fo l lowing of the fashion B ecause in th e first p l ace we deny
.

that fashion is always in the right and in the second i t rarel y ,

happens that the same style exact l y suits two persons alike .

Nothing requires more consideration than th e hair I t is .

one of a wom an s greatest ornaments W e have high autho

’
.

rity for saying this ; Hair should al ways have the appearanc e
of being we ll cared for I t should set o ff the shape of the
.

head if i t is good and not aggravate any of its defects A

, .

sma l l head we l l set on is a great beauty I t tends more than

, , .

anything else to that distinguished look which enhances all

other beauty Beauty if accompan ied b y a look of re fine
.
,

ment is worth more than m ere animal beauty and nothing

, ,

is more indicat ive of refin ement an d n oble birth as a well

shaped head I t is the head which gives the impression o f
.

inte ll ectual power T he well formed brow shou l d not be de

.

mora l i z ed by ring l ets which are suggestive on l y of a wax doll

, ,

no r should it be disfi gured by being surmounted by a k ind of

cushion or roll of hair which gives the idea of weight and si z e .

No r should the hair have the appearance of a bird s nest and

’
,
”
look tumb l ed and untid y T his was late l y the beau ideal .

of a well dressed head I t was desired that i t should appear

.

unkempt and uncombed as if i t had b een drawn throug h a ,

quickset hedge The bac k of the head if well shaped has a

.
, ,

beautiful appearance reminding one of a stag which i s so

, ,

graceful in l ook and motion But when i t is disfigured by a .

large mass of hai r resembling a large pin cushion all that

,
-
,

pecu l iar native grace which we so much admire is lost sight

of Whe n all heads are m ad e to loo k a l ike and equa l l y
.

large there is no advantage in having a small and we l l shape d

,

head I t seems as i f the study of the present da y were to

.

make the head l ook large and t o conceal al l its points W e , .

miss the smooth braids of hair which set o ff the expanse o f

forehead and the coils of plaits of hair which ornamented
, , ,

but did not conceal the back of the head W e miss the gloss y .

l oo k of the h ai r whi ch indicated ca re, and pr efer i t in finitel y

 1 84 H O W TO DR ESS WEL L .

t o tha t which simul ates neglect is perfectl y t rue tha t o ne

. It
styl e does n ot suit all p ersons a l i k e any m ore than that th e
,

p owder whi ch was worn by our great gran dmothers was -

equal l y becom ing to al l A low forehead if the points of the

.
,

brow are good shou l d have the hair drawn o f i t wh ereas a

, ,

h igh forehead which does not betoken an y great intellec l

p ower is d isfigured by the sam e process S mooth braids . fi
no t become a long face n or puffs a broad one
, A foreh ead .

wh ich is a l ready too high can n ot bear to be heighten ed by

coronets and cushions of ha ir n or a countenance whi ch indi
,

cat es weakness to be m ade weak er still by limp luxurious

curls A stern face requires to be soften ed wh il e a weak one
.
,

requires st rength The hair can genera lly do this It de

. .

pends upon how it is dressed .

T hey who are n o longer young endeavour to impose upo n

the world by the use of wigs and fronts T hes e are an abo .
.

m ination and in every instance they are easy of detection

, .

T here is someth ing in the way in which false hair protests

against th e face and the fac e against i t which infal l ibly ex ,

p oses i t to be false A l ady with a ll the signs of y ears abou t

.

h er face m akes her age the more apparen t by the contrast of

glossy dark hair which belongs to youth W hy is she afrai d .

t o wear her o wn grey hair ? G rey hairs are no reproof a nd ,

we are quite sure they woul d ha im o niz e better with the other
marks of age than the wigs an d fronts which prevail T here .

is something in the white ha ir of age which has a charm of its

own I t is l ike the soft and me ll ow light of sun set But nu
. .

fortunate l y a n o l d woman is not a l ways inc l ined to accept the

fact that she is old She would rebel agai nst it but rebe ll ion
.
,

is useless T he fact remains the same She is old no twith

. .

”
standing her rouge pot and h er front and she is grow ing ,

o lder day by da y .

J ewell ery is another accessor y Je wels re al j ewels are in

.
, ,

the possessi on of on l y a few T hey are so cost l y that on ly

.

mi ll ionaires or the heirs of heirlooms can hav e them The y .

are very beautifu l and have this one m erit that a few j ewe l s
, , ,

j udicious l y se l ected and worn mak e a person we ll dresse d

,

at once A diamond neck l ac e and brooch diam ond earrings

.
, ,

and a few diamond s tars glitte 1i ng in the hair wi l l m ake ,

a l most a shabby dress pass muster at C ourt But j ewelle ry is a .

term tha t is applied to ornaments gen erall y and not to j ewels ,

o n]
y
S ham j ewellery is an abom ination I t is a li e and a pre
.
,

tension At n o ti me was so much sham j ewelle ry made an d

.

worn Every damsel has her b rooches and her earrings In

. .
1 86 HOW T O DR E Sb WELL .

”
VL A Fe w WOR DS Mo an .

I t is very difli cult, we m igh t sa y im p oss ible t o give any ,

definit e rules about dress Fashi ons chang e so conti nually

.
,

that if we were to write a di ss er tation upon peplums an d ,

trai ns and gores or give direct ions how to cut them out or
, ,

mak e them almost by the time this manual sh ould come i nto
,

circulation they woul d have become portions of th e pas t an d

, ,

our h in ts wou l d seem ab sur d and out of place All that has .

seemed feas ible to us we have done which has been to give ,

cert ain hi nts that th e rocks upon which s o m any spli t who ,

m ak e great endeavours to be well dr essed, m ight be avoided

b y our reader s.

T here is n o doub t that every on e w ish es to dress well ,

whatever her m eans ma y be ; and that n o on e think s she

d resses i l l whatever the wor l d may th ink of her p erformance
, .

\Ve l ook at ourselves throug h coloured glass an d are ap t to ,

tak e the m os t favourable view of our own p ecul iar iti es

O , wa d so me powe r th e giftie gie u s ,

”
T o se e ourselve s as o thers see us .

Th ere are rules in dress as there are in p a in ting which if

, , ,
“ ”
observed wi l l prevent our m ak ing frigh ts of o urselves
, .

A nyone who starts for hers elf on a n ew l ine and thr o wing , ,

t o the w ind the received laws adopts an d carri es out some ,

crude th eory of her own however mu ch she may e ntertain

,

h erself by her experim en ts runs a great chance of mak ing a

,

fi gure of herself and will infallib l y obtain a reputation for

,

conceit and a flecta tio n No wom an unless sh e is a st ar of

'

.
,

great m agni tude or a bell e of n ote can with impunity se t a t

, ,

n ought the received customs She is by n o means bound to .

follow fas hion so implicit l y an d subservi en tly as to m ar her

o wn b eauty But a clever woman wil l always be able t o
.

avoid affront ing fashion whi le sh e ta k es a line of her o wn .

W e use this phr as e with a certain l imi tati on because if a ,

w oman were to take a line of her own unres tricted by certain

convenances of society an d of fashion she woul d certain ly ,

fall into the very error which we should be the fi rst to declai m
a gainst n amely — the error of eccentricit y
, A due regard for .

“ ”
these convenances wil l ensure that sense of propri ety in
dress whi ch w ill m ak e everyon e remember both h er station
and her means Th e fin e lady wi l l n ot a ffect the si mplicit y
.

of the village girl n or the vi l lage girl as pir e to be m istak en

,
 HOW TO DR E SS WELL . 1 87

for the fine lady . will m aintain their o wn posi tions, and
Both
will be resp ected whil e they ma inta in them .

L e t i t als o be ho m e in mind that a bo nnet or cap mantle o r ,

gown may be very prett y in i tself and very becom ing to som e
,

persons but not necessarily to everyone generally t o on l y a

,

few The y oung and the o l d have each their privileges T he

. .

one must not dress l ike the other T hough we have seen
.

some who have been foolish enough t o forget the y ears tha t
have passed and cann ot realise the fac t that they are no l onger
,

y oung an d vie wi th the youngest in the youthfulness of their

,

attire we do n ot we admit often find the young en d eavour

, , ,

ing to mak e themselves look older than they are One who .

has thought much and written we l l on this subj ec t says ,

D oubt l ess if there were any way of making old peopl e

y oung either in looks or anything else i t would be a delight
, ,
c

ful i nvention but m eanwhile j uveni l e dress ing is th e las t

road we sh ould recommend them to take .

I n conclus ion let every wom an be ar i n min d that dress

,

denotes character that there is a s ymbolism in dress whi ch

,

th ey who hav e studied the ma tter can r ea d without diffi culty .

 fim r ) ratin
to G .

T HE D I N N E R -T A B L E .

So l ong as the taste for dinn ers d la R uss: sh all continu e, it

does n ot seem absolutely n ecessary for lady or gentleman t o
take the troub l e t o learn to carve But the id l e and was teful .

fashion of employing servan ts to cut up your food after their o wn

fancy an d of sitting round a board bereft of al l app earan ce of
,

d inn er except the salt ce l lars and gl asses to watch flowers

-
,

and fresh fru it decay and droop in the m idst of the various
sme ll s of the hot meats wh ile waiting to receive such portions
,

as y our attendan t chooses to bestow on you is so O pposed to ,

th e social hospitab l e and active habits of an Eng li sh gentle

, ,

m an that it must soon pass away and the tempting spread on ,

the generous board pleasant to the e y e as well as t o the taste

'

, ,

re sume its place .

D exterity grace an d tact in carving an d distributing the

, ,

d e l icate m orse l s of the dish have been m any a man s passport

’
,

into popu l arity No r is this accomp l ishmen t unworthy of

.

cultivation i n the elegan t woman ; a ffording a pretext too , ,

for that assistance of some favo ured neighbour whi ch men love
to o ffer to the fair .

T he number of g uests to be invited to constitute an agree

a b l e d inner is n o l onger restricted to the old rule of never l ess
than the number of th e G races nor m ore than that of the ,

M uses L arge tables well train ed servants dinners ii a R u m

.
,
-
,
’
.
,

and a greater facili ty in fu rn ishing th e viands for th e tab l e

than form er l y existed have enab l ed famili es to extend the
,

numbe r received and dinners of from twelve to twent y are

,

common and more convenient than several small di nn ers

, .

Th e invitations shou l d be sent out if possibl e a fortnigh t , ,

previous to the dinner, to avoid disa ppointment ; and etiquett e

196

o ne kind of fi sh b e serv ed ; if more the choice mu st be l eft ,

to the guest .

A fter th e soup an d fi sh are se rv ed th e R em oves as the y , ,

are generall y term ed that is th e pieces dc r ea l-tuna th e

, , ,

stronghold of the dinner are brought i n ; but before the y,

are carved two or m ore m tr e‘f s are usu all y handed round
, ,

and if cha mp agne be intr oduced this i s the t ime for it t o be ,

offered .

I n carving the removes, a servant must b e at th e side o f

the carver with the plate which he must as quic kl y as po s
,

sible pass to the guest for whom i t is required, an other ser

van t follo wi ng with the vegetables or sauces I f onl y on e .

servant be employ ed the vegetables should be on th e table

, ,

that the guests may he l p them se l ves for n othing can be m ore ,

vexatious th an to have to wai t for them for a quarter of an

hour after y ou have b een served with the m eat T he same .

m ay be said of the sauces so often at a scantily -attended , ,

table w i thheld until you n o longer ca re for them

, S uch .

wines as the m aster of the hous e choos es to bestow must b e

o ffered when needed W ater ca raf es w il l be wi thin the
.
'

rea ch of all an d b eer if called for mus t be serv ed

, , , .

I n the matter of carving i t shou l d be held in min d that

,

the flavour and the digestibili t y of th e meat depends gr eat ly

on the careful m od e of cutting it : A delicate stomach m ay
be di sgusted wi th a thick coarse slice an undue proporti on of ,

fat a piece of sk in or gri stle and therefore th e carver must

,

h ave j udgmen t as well as dexteri ty must inquire the tas te o f ,

each guest and minister discreetly to it T his deli cate du ty

, .

i s m ore full y se t forth in the direction for carving each d ish .

O ne poin t i t is well to remember : n eve r us e a knife when

y ou can help wi th a spoon The light ing the d inner table .
-

well is of som e importance People like t o see their dinn er .

,

but lamps and candles on the table are l iable to acciden ts .

G as is a l so obj ectionable the heat from i t is oppress ive and ,

the li ght too gla ring to be p l eas an t to the eyes or becoming ,

to femal e beauty : chandeliers wi th wax lights or a susp ended

and sh aded lamp we would recommend as m ost favourable t o
the ba nquet and th e company Fe w dishes are n ow placed .

on the tabl e at dessert T here should be at least three

.

laced before each gu est on e of which m ust be of

colouredglass and water-tumblers here an d there at han d
,

.
,

T o each also a dessert p l ate a knife fork n ut cra ckers

, ,
-
, , ,
-
,
’
a nd d Oy ley the d ecanters of su ch w ines as th e host ch ooses
to bring forth on their proper stands ; and salt -cella rs and
, ,

sugar -vases wi th
perforat ed ladies, must also be on the ta ble .
 HOW T O CAR V2 . 1 9:
Whe n thelad y of the house perceives that her femal e
gu ests have tak en the wine they wish she signifies b y a sligh t ,

i n cl ination the request to leave the table and on her rising ,

some chivalrous gent l eman opens the door for the ladies to
pass into the drawing room where it is the duty of the mis ~
-
,

tre ss of the house to o ff er the usual amusements t o her fri ends

- music boo ks of drawings
,
or conversation ; but few efforts
,

are required amo ng well bred gu ests - .

C o ffee shou l d then be brought in If onl y on e se rvant be

.

emplo y ed every lad y mus t prep are her o wn cup Whe n

,
.

th ere are two s ervants the cups are on on e tray and th e

, ,

second attendant follows with the coffee -pot and fills the cup ,

of ea ch p erso n .

I f the gentlemen in th e di ning ro o m do no t j oin th e ladies

o

i mm ediatel y co ffee is served to them at tabl e when required

,

and when the y appear in the drawing room tea is handed -

,

round .

Th e greatest aid t o th e pleasu re of a mi xed p arty is that

ease of manner which the habi ts of good societ y p rod uce .

W hen the hosts are com posed and cheerful the compan y ,

c ommonly follow the e x ample, an d aw k ward r estrain t dis

appears .

C AR V ING .

Though in the presen t da y n o lady wo ul d be permit t ed to

p erfor m the heavier duti es of ca rving for a large company nu
assisted yet i t is by n o mean s inconsistent wi th the character
,

of a we l l bred woman to understand and occasiona ll y to pra e

-

tise the duty I n th e middle class es this duty is not nusua ll y

, .
u

tak en by th e w ife of a man whom bus iness may often detain

from his home ; an d a sk il ful and economical carver is n o
bad helpm ate for a hard work ing professional m an -
.

M en ought to kn ow how to ca rve an y j oint or dish set be 6

fore them or however high their stand ing in the worl d the y
, , ,

a pear awkward and c l o wn ish and therefore, all m en

sp
,

oul d p ractis e the art of ca rving in their y ou th .

T he fi rst ne cessary prov is ions for carving are the p roper

utensils ; th e most ski lfu l of arti sts would be defeated in his
a im if he had n ot hi s t ools The carvi ng-kniv es and for ks are
.

no w made speciall y for the various dish es Th e fish-carvers; .

 192

of silver or silvered metal — th e touch of steel destro ys the

fl avour of the fish— should be broad so that th e flakes be no t ,

broken in raising Fo r the j oints of m eat a l ong very sharp

.
, ,

stee l blade ; and for pou l try and game a long hand l ed but ,
-

short and pointed b l ade to b e inserted dexterous l y between

,

the sma l l j oints of the birds T he forks must be two pro nged
.
-
,

and the dish must be su ffi cientl y near to the carver to give an

e asy command over it .

Having the needful utensils for work all now depends on ,

the coolness confidence and dexterity of the carver with that

, , ,

S ma ll know l edge of anatomy that enables him to know what

j oints there must be in the piece before h im and where they are ,

situated I n butcher s meat on e r ul e i s almost universal

.
’
,

the slice cut must be cut across the fibres of th e meat an d ,

not along them a process which renders i t more e asy to mas

tica te and digest T he exceptions to this ru l e are the fi ll et or
.

under cut in a sirloin of beef and the s l ices a l ong the bone in
-
,

a saddle of mutton In cutting a j oint of meat th e strong

.
,

fork is used to steady i t but in carving poultry i t is the fork

which is m ost useful in removing the wing and leg by a j erk ,

without leaving any ragged remains adhering to the body .

All this must be accomp l ished by dexterity not by strength , ,

and any lady ma y acquire the art b y a litt l e observation an d

practice .

A knife should never b e used for p ies m zréer or sweet ,

‘
,

dishes a spoon wherever a spoon can be used .

I n h elping to ch oice dishes stuffings & c the carver should

, ,
.
,

always calcu l ate the number of the compan y, and proportion

the delicacies discreetl y .

FI SH .

T U R B OT .

Th ere is more art i n de l icately carving the imp erial turbo t

than an y other fish in order that every on e may be supp l ied
,

with the rich skin and fins so highly appreciated b y epicures

, .

I t is always brought to table with the white or under side -

u pperm ost as this is the most delicate part

,
T he po in t o f .

the fish knife must be drawn don e the m iddle to the bon e
-
,

and from thence deep cuts made at right angl es an d the ,

squ ares, thus mad e, car eful ly ra ised, includ ing the portion of
 HOW T O CAR VE .

SAL MO N, ET C.

The best p art of a large salmon is a thic k piec e from the

mi ddl e I t must be carv ed by fi rst m aki ng an incis ion down
.

the b ack t o 2 and a s econd from 5 to 6 ; th en di vid e the

, I ,

side 3 to 4 and cu t th e slices as preferred from the upper or

, , ,

th ic k part or from the lower richer thin part or gi ve a littl e

, ,

of each S almon trout as i t i s usual l y call ed haddocks, or

. , ,

la rge whitings are carved in the same way .

M AC K ER E L .

I t is usual to split the fish from head to tail and i f n ot very , ,

large to serve i t i n two pi eces

,
M os t of th e sm aller fishes
.

may be carved in thi s way if too large to serve whole In

, .

e v er y cas e one gra nd rul e in carving fish must be attended t o

,
— not t o brea k the flak es and t o help compac tl y not in de
, ,

tached fragments .

HA U NC H OF VE NISON , OR M U T T ON AS VENISON .

It is very necessary that every on e who undertak es to carv e

a haunch of venison shou l d be a ware of the responsibi l ity of
his duty An ill cut or inferior s l ice an undue portion of fat
.
-
, ,

or a defici en cy of gravy is an insu l t to an epicure T he j oin t .

m ust firs t have a d eep incision across the knuckle I to 2 to , ,

allow th e gra vy t o flo w then long para l lel thin slices a l ong

the lin e 3 to 4 , wi th a portion of th e fat, and i f required, of ,
 HO W To CAR I/ E . 195

the rich k idney fat lying under th e loin ; the gravy al so ,

whi ch IS or ought to be ve ry strong must be discreetl y por

'

, , ,

tio nedou t according to the number at table . The haunch o f

m utton m u st be carv ed in the s ame wa y .

M UTT ON AND L AMB .

SADD LE OF M U TT O N OR L A M B .

T his very handsome j o int is com monl y and easil y ca rved

in long thin slices fro m each side of the bone with a little ,

a dditional fat cut from the left side O r with a little more
.
,

care the newer m ode may be fol l owed of carv i ng ob l ique

,

slices from the centre begi nn ing at the bon e near the tail an d
, ,

cutting th e slices through the j oint thus ming l ing th e fat

,

and lean A saddl e of l a mb a pretty dish i n season , must

.
,

be ca rved m the same wa y .

L EG O F M U TT ON OR L A M B

The b es t part of this j oint is the middle between th e

in ,

knuckle and farther end and th e bes t way to carve it is t o

,

make a deep cut at I and continue to cut thin sl ices as far

,

as 2,
on each side of the firs t incision ; but as m ore fat is
usua l l y requir ed tha n lies with th e slice
.
a small neat slice ,

may be added fro m the broad end at 3 T he cra mp -bone may .

1 3- 2
 896 HO W TO CAR VE .

be ex t ra c t e d i f as k ed for b y cu tt ing d own a t 4 , and passing

, ,

the kn ife under in a s emicircle to 5 The del icate fine mea t

.

of the under side which lies beneath the “ Pope s ey e,

,
’ "

so metimes d emand ed b y epicures .

SHOU LDER OF MUT I ON O R L AMB

’ ‘
.

Ma k e an incision at 1 down to th e b on e which will then ,

a fford a deep gap from which on each side y ou ma y help thi n

,

s l ices adding a little fat from the outer edge m arked 2 I f

, .

the demands are more than can b e supplied at the fi rst open
i ng addition al slices may b e obtained by cutting do wn to the
,

blade bon e marked 3 on each side Som e of th e party ma y

-
, , .

prefer slic es from the under side th e meat of which is j uic y

, ,

though l ess fi n e in grain ; the se mus t be cut horiz ontall y ;

LOI N OF M U TTON .

A loin of mu tt on is alwa ys b rought to t ab l e with the j oints

o f the bon es divided i t is therefore merely n ece ssary to begin
I t the narrow end an d cu t o ff on e chop at a time with a
, , .

mall port ion of the k idne y if r equired, or of th e rich k idne y

sat.

NECK OF M U TTON.

The j oin ts o f a nec k of mutton are alwa y s divided befor e

cooking in the same way as those of the lo in and the carvi ng ,

i s simple I t is only n ec essary to begi n at the long bon es

.
,

where the b est meat lies the scr ag as i t is usually ca ll ed

, , ,

be ing c oarse an d grist l y an d frequ en tl y tak en o ff befcre the

,

a im is dr esse d for the ta b l e .

198 HOW T O CAR VE .

the sli ce s across the j oint beginning in the m id dle cert ainly
,

eas 1 er for the carver but destru ctive to the fut ure appearan ce
,

of the j oint n or is th e m eat so tend er th us cro ssed A porti on

, .

of th e under fat shoul d be res erved for the upper sli ces .

R IBS OF B EEF .

M ust be carved lik e the upp er part of the sirloin . T here is

n o fi ll et i n th is j o in t . I t is us ual to begin the sl ices at th e
thin end .

R O U ND O F B EE F .

W ith a sharp thin bla ded knife shave o ff in a hori zontal

'

.
-

m ann er the fi rst s li ce , l ea ving th e round flat and smooth :

The meat is disfigu red i f this sm o othness is not preserved ;
i t is therefore n ec essary that your kni fe be sharp and y our
han d s tead y It m us t be se rved in very thin slices
. .

T HE AIT C ll -BONE, OR E D G E -DO NE

I s usually skewered and bo iled wi th p art of the rump ,

:ummg a sort of round, to be carved the same wa y as the

o
 HO W T O CAR VE . 19
9
ound The soft marrow k ind of fat is at the ba c k of the
'

r .
,

bon e below 4 and must be suppl i ed when required ; the

, ,

harder fat is at the edge of the m eat 3 and will accom pan y , ,

each sl ice .

R U MP OR B U TT O C K OF B EEF .

In carving th e rump buttoc k or other j oints of beef i t is

, , ,

merely necessary to observe that eve ry slice shou l d be as

,

n eat l y as practicab l e cut across the grain Even in the br is k et, .

the slices m ust be across the bones and n ot through , .

T ONG UE .

The t ongu e ma y be sen t to table e ther r olled or in length

.
i .

I f rol l ed s l ices a re cut as in a round of beef ; if not ro ll ed i t

, ,

m ust be cut n early i n the middl e n ot quite through and slic e s

, ,

taken from each side with a little of the fat which li es at the
,

root , if li k ed .

V EAL .

’
CA L F S HEA D .

The half head is often sent to table ; but when a whol e

-

h ead is served it i s only n ec essary to know the delica te parts

,
 HO W TO CAR VE .

and to dis t ribu t e them impartiall y L ong slic es of the gel a! .

tino us s k in cut down to the bone from 1 to 2 m us t be served

, ,
.

The throat sw eetbrea d as i t is c all ed lies at th e thick n ec k

, ,

e nd and sl ices from 3 t o 4 must be added to the gelatin e

, , .

The e y e is also a delica cy : this must b e e x tracted with the

p oint of the kn i fe an d div
, i d e d at discr etion T he pa l ate sit~ .
,

uated under the h ead must also be apportioned and if neces

, , ,

a y th e aw bo ne sh oul d be r em o ved , t o ob tai n the l ean m ea t

j -

below i t
’

L OIN OF VEAL

Is usually divid ed into two portion s —the chump end and the
k idney en d the latter of which the most delicate p art m us t , ,

b e separated i n bones which have been jointed before coo k ing .

Part of the k idne y and of the rich fat which surrounds it must
, ,

b e given to each T he chump end after th e tail is rem oved and

.
,

d ivided may be serv ed in sl ic es wi thout bone, if prefe rre d to

,

the ri cher end .

FI LLET OF VEAL .

Thefille t of veal corres ponding to the round of be e f;must

,

be carv ed in the sam e wa y i n horiz ontal slices with a sharp

, ,

k nife to preserve the smooth surface The fi rst or brown .

,

slice, is preferred by som e p ersons an d it should be divid ed as ,

r equired Fo r the force -meat whi ch is covered wi th the flap

.
, ,
y ou must cut deep into i t between 1 and 2 , and hel p to each a
thin slice , w ith a little of the fat .

B R EAST o r VEAL .

The breas t is c ompos ed o f the rib s and b risk et, and these
20 2 H O W TO CAR VE . .

the sim il ar j o in ts of mut ton i n sl ic es ac ross cut very deep as

, , ,

m ark ed r 2 , .I n the leg however th e close fi rm fl esh abou t

, , ,

the knuckle is more highly es teem ed than in the same p art of

a leg of mutton and must be dealt out imparti all y
, .

T he Iza n d is a delicate j oint and may be c arved from th e

,

blade bone as in mutton or in thin sl ic es across, n ear the

-
,

k nuc kle .

S PA R E-R IB O F PO RK

Is usually accompani ed by ap p l e sauce to correct th e richness

of the gravy The fl eshy part is fi rst cut in long slices, an d
.

the spare bones are then e as i ly divid ed .

HAM .

Th eusual meth od of carving the ham is b y cutting down

d irectly t o th e bon e three or four th in s l ices in the direction
1 2 ; then by pas s ing th e kn ife along the bo ne
, y ou com ,

pletely deta ch the m and give a due porti on of fa t to each

, If .

y ou wish to be more econom ical you m ust begi n at the k nuc kl e

,

and gr adually work onward l eaving a better appearan c e that

, .

when cut in the midd l e A m ore extrava g an t method is b)

.

scooping a h ole i n the mid dle and cutting C i rcular sl i ces

,

round on the principle of keeping th e meat moist and re

,

tain ing the gravy T his is obvio us ly a wasteful plan

. .
 11 0 W TO CAR VE . 203

A S UC K I NG PIG .

B efore
it is sent to table th e head is removed and open ed
, ,

and the body split in two thus rendering i t very easy to carve
, .

F irs t separate the shou l ders then the l egs from th e body
, .

The triangular p iece of the n eck between th e shou l ders is

reckoned the most de l icate part and the ribs the n ext best
,
.

T he l atter are easi l y divided a ccm d ing to th e number o f

guests being common ly little more than gristle there are
,

choice bits also i n the sh oulders and thighs ; the ear also is
reck oned a de l icacy T he po rtion of stufii ng and grav y must
.

not be forgotten by the carver .

P O UL T R Y AND G AM E .

careful fi rst to have y our proper carving k nife and

Be -

next t o consider th e n umber of the company I f a sm all .

number it wi l l only be n ec essary in carving a goose turkey

, , ,

or duck to cut deep slices from each side of the breast wi th

, ,

out winging the birds In a l a rge part y the y must absolutel y

.

be cut up .

G OOSE .

Incarving a goose the neck must be turned towards y ou

, ,

and the skin be l ow the bre ast cal l ed the apron ,be removed
,

i n a semicircul ar di rection to enable you to reach the stuffing

,

i nside S ome carvers choose to pour in a glass of port wine

.
,

or claret m ixed with must a rd before beginning to cut up

, .

T he s l ices fi rst cut ar e on each side of the breas t bone marked -

,

a b
, . T hen if required the wing may be removed by put
, , ,

ti ng the fork into the small en d of the p in ion and press ing i t ,
 20 4 HOW TO CAR VE .

cl os e to the b od y until y ou divide the shoulder-j oint at r ,

carrying the k ni fe on as far as 2 an d then separating b y d raw

,

ing the fork back The leg must b e removed i n the same
.

mann er in the direc tion 2 3 and the thigh, which is by man y

, ,

considered th e best part must be sep ar ated from th e inferior

,

dru mstic k T he m erry-thought ma y be removed b y raising

.

it a littl e from th e n eck and then pass ing th e k ni fe b enea th

, ,

and the de l icate neck bon es are taken o ff the sam e wa y T he

- .

rump is looked on by epicures as a dainty After each plate .

been supplied with the part asked for a spoon m us t be ,

introduced at th e nec k t o d raw out th e proper portion o f

A green goose is ca rved much in th e same wa y but , is not
t y
s uffed , and onl the brea st reg arded as very deli cate .

K EY T UR .

The prime p ar t of th e tu rk e y is th e breast and i t is only ,

a ft er th s is e xhaus ted that the real cutting up of the bird is

i

requ ired T he knife must be passed dow n close to the bone

.

and thr ough the forcemeat which fi l ls th e breas t and then th in ,

s li ces with a due p ortion of the forcemeat distributed

, and ,

except i n a very large party this usuall y is su ffi cient but if

,

m ore be requi red th e pinions and legs must be tak en o ff li k e

,

those of t he goose Th e thigh is good the p in ion an d

.

d rumst ick are usual l y tough and reserved ti l l the last ; th e

,

side or n eck bones are delicate also th e smal l round piece of

-

flesh on each side of th e centre of the back ca ll ed Me oy ster .

Bey ond thes e the turk ey requires n o m or e carving .

A FO WL .

The for kmust be fi rmly fi xed in the cen tre of the breast ,

d raw the kn ife along th e l ine I to 3 an d then proc ee d to ,

take o ff the w ing by i nserting the k nife under th e j oint at r

, ,

a nd lifting the p ini on wi th the fo r k, drawing o ff the wing

3 66 HOW T O CAR I/ E
'

WI L D D UC K .

Thechoi ce part of a wild duck is the b reas t whi ch is cu t ,

in long slices from th e neck to the l eg I t is rare l y the bird

.

is required to be disj ointed , but if i t be n ecessary it can be ,

cu t up lik e a fowl .

PHEASANT .

th e same mann er in which y ou carve a fowl fi x y our

In
fork in th e c en tre of the breast cut s l ices from th e breas t
rem ove the leg which is c ons idered excellen t m a l in e at 3,
, ,

and the wing at 3 5 T o dr aw 0 3 the m erry thought pass

'

.
-
, ,

the k n ife through the line 6 ben ea th it towards the n eck an d ,

it will easi l y be detached In oth er respects serve i t in th e

.

same way as a fowl th e breas t and thi gh being most va l ued

, .

G R O U SE,

The fi rst unri valled bird of gam e due on th e of August

, 1 2 th ,

breaking up the senate of th e k ing dom and accessib l e on l y

'

to th e few whom w ealth or privil ege give the e ntr e’e in to the
preserved regions has when even thr own into the market by
, ,

the m ercen ary scions of the gr eat a considerab l e va l ue

, an d
perhaps it is only 1 n the N orth that it i s properl y cooked an d
apprec iated A moor bird requires a particu l ar sagacity in
.

carving which 1 5 a secr et to the uni nitiated You may ca rve

,
.

i t li ke a comm on fow l ; but the epicure alone knows that i t

is i n the back that th e true flavo ur of the heath is found a nd
‘

in the No rth the ba c k is recognized as the chi ef d elicac y an d ,

mus t be careful l y proportion ed among the g uests .

 HO W T O CAR VE . 207

PA R TR I DGE .

The part ridge i s alwa ys well received i n d inner society ;

and if the party be large and the supp l y of game sma ll the ,

partridges must be j ointed lik e a fow l to make the most of ,

them but in a small party it is only necessary to fix the knife

,
-

i n the back and separate the bird at once into back a nd

,

breas t dividing it then according to the number of guests

, ,

always remembe ring that the back of a well fed partridge is -

b y n o means a despicable morsel .

W OODSTOC K OR S NI PE .

The grea t peculiar ity in carving th e woodcoc k or sni pe is ,

t hat the bird is not drawn lik e other birds but roasted as i t ,

is plucked sus pended by the head with a toas t benea th on

, , ,

which the tr ail as i t is c al l ed or intern al part is a ll ow e d to

, , ,

drop ; and when the birds are roasted which should be ,

rapidly d one in twenty minutes the trail should be Spread

,

over each toast an d the bird se rved u p o n it I t is then on ly .

nec es sary to carve each bird through the breas t and ba ck ,

with its due proportion of the trail an d toas t T he b es t part . ,

howev er, if carved , is th e thigh .

PIGEONS .

As the pigeon is t oo small a bird disj o int it is th e faires t

to ,

division to cut i t through the middle of the breas t and bac k

in two equ al parts A nother mode is to i nsert the k nife at I ,
.

di cu t o n each side to 2 and 3 an d forcing them asuno

d ,

divide each porti o n in to two but this is not needed excel .

n a large part y ,
2 08 HO W TO CAR I/ E .

SMAL L BIR DS .

Field fares, lar ks,corn ra k es qua ils, plovers and rufls and '
-c
, ,

re eves sh oul d be al wa ys cut thr ough the breast, and ser ved
,

onl y for two helps .

HARE .

The o ld way o fa bare still in sist ed on at man y

ca ving
r ,

eoo no m iea l tabl es i s som ewhat elaborate Y ou m us t firs t

, .

i nsert th e kn ife in the point of the shoul der m ar k e d I an d ,

d ivide i t down along th e lin e to th e rump 2 and doing the ,

same at the opposi te side th e hare falls into three p i ec es

, .

Pass the kni fe under th e sh oulder 2 - 1 and remove i t then , ,

th e leg whi ch is r eally good in a sim ilar manner Th e

, , .

an im al m us t be beh ea d ed for i t is n ec essary t o d ivide th e

,

head which mus t be don e by turn ing the mou th towards y ou

, ,

holdi ng i t stead ily down with the fork inserting the knife ,

through the bone betwee n the ears and forcing i t through , ,

e nti re ly dividing i t Half the head is gi ven t o an y o ne that

.

requi e r s it th e crisp ears being fi rs t cut o ff a delica c y som e

, ,

r e fer The back which is the most ten der part must no w
.
, ,

divi ded throug h th e spine into several p iec es ; i t is onl y

after the ba ck is distributed that i t is n ec essary to have t e
c ourse to th e shoulders and legs If the hare be o l d i t i s
.
,

useless to attempt t o carve i t en ti rely at table the j oints be ,

come so stubborn with age and i t is then usual to cut long

s l ices on ea ch side of the back hon e A great d ea l of th e
-
.

blood usually settles in the shou l ders an d back of the n eck ,

giving the fl esh a richn ess which ep icures l ike ; and these
arts call ed the Sportsman s pieces are sometim es demanded
,
’
, .

e seas oni ng or stufli ng of a hare lies ins ide, and m us t be

drawn out Wi th a spoon
 fi nas ta aah g entuuenta .

AM AT O R Y .

B ritish bell es an d B ritish fashions .

L aughing lo vers to merry m ai ds .

o

L ove and opport uni t y .

L ove s slavery
’
.

L ove without licen ti ousn ess an d pleasure without e x cess , .

L ove liberty and lengt h of b l issful days

, ,
.

L ove without fear an d l ife wi thout ca re

,
.

L ove for one .

L ife love liberty and tru e friendshi p

, , , .

L ove in ev e y breast libert y in every he art , and learni ng in

.
,

eve ry head .

Lo ve at libert y and liberty in love

, .

L o ve : ma y it never ma k e a wise man play the foo l .

Artless love an d disinterested fri endsh ip .

All that love can gi ve an d sensibili ty enj o y , .

A speedy uni on to every lad and lass ,

.

B eau ty s best compan ion — M odes ty

’
.

B eauty innocence and modest merit

, , .

B eauty wi thout a fle cta tio n and virtu e without deceit , .

C om mun ity of goods u ni ty o f hearts n obility of sentimen t,

, ,

and truth of feeling to th e lov ers of the fai r se x .

 TOAS TS AND SE N TI ME N TS . 21!

Charms to s tri k e the sight and merit t o win the h eart

,
.

C onstancy i n love and s inceri t y in friendship

, .

Here s a health to the maid that is constant an d k ind,

’

W ho to charms bright as V enus s adds D iana s m ind ’ ’

.

I ll toas t B rita in s daughters — let all fi ll their g l ass es

’ ’

W hose beauty and virtue the whole wor l d surpasses .

M a y blessings attend them o wherever they w ill

g
And fo ul fa ll the man that e er o ff ers them ill
,
’
.
,

L o ve without deceit and matrimony without regret

, .

L ove s garlands : ma y they ever ent wine the bro ws of ev ery

’

true hearted l over

-
.

L ovel y woman— man s best and dearest gi ft of life

’
.

L o ve to one fii e ndshi p to a few and good -will t o all

, , .

L ong life pure love and boundless libert y

, , .

May love and reaso n b e fri ends , a nd b eaut y and p rud ence
marry .

May the lovers of the fa ir sex n ever wan t the me ans to defend
them .

Ma y the sparks of love brighten into a fl ame .

May the j oy s of the fa ir give pleasure to the heart .

May we b e loved b y those whom we love .

May we k iss whom we pleas e and please whom we kiss , .

May the bud of a ffection be ripened b y the sunshine of sin

cerity .

May a virtuous o flspring succeed to mutu al and honourabl e

love .

May the presence of the fair curb th e licentious .

M ay the confi dence of love be rewarded with cons tan cy in its

obj ect .

Ma y the honourable lover attain the obj ect of his wishes .

M ay the lovers of the fair be modest faithful an d kind , , .

May the wi ngs of love never lose a feather .

May the blush of consc ious innocence ever dec k the fac es of .

the B ritish fair .

May the unio n o f pe rsons always be fo un ded on that of

hea rts .
2 12 T OAS TS AND SE N TI ME N TS .

May th e gen erous h eart ever mee t a chas t e mat e .

M ay th e t em per of our wives be s uit ed t o those of thei r

husbands .

May true passi on n ever mee t wi th a slight .

May ev ery w oman have a pro t ector, b ut no t a ty rant .

BACC IIANAL I AN .

May we ac t with reas on when th e bo ttle circula t es .

May good fortune resemble the bottl e an d bowl ,

And st and b y the man wh o can t stan d b y himself

’
.

M ay we n ever want win e nor a fri en d to p artak e of it

, .

May o ur love of the glass n ever m ak e us forge t decen cy .

M a y the j uice of the grape enliven each soul ,

And good hum our preside at the head of each b owl .

May m irth e x al t th e feas t .

May we alwa ys get m ellow wi th good w ine .

M ay the momen ts of m irth be regulated b y th e dial of reason .

C hampagn e t o o ur r eal fri ends, an d real pa in to our

fri en ds
.

C ome every man no w give h is toas t

,

Fill up the gl ass— I ll tell y ou mine

‘
’

W ine is the mistress I love m os t

T his is m y toas t — n ow give me thine .

C heerfulness in our cups , cont en t in o ur minds, and oom

petency in our pock ets .

C ome fill the glass and drain the bowl 3

,

M a y L ove and B acchus still agree

And every B riton warm his soul
W ith C up id , W in e, and Li ber ty .

G oo d -humour and ma y it ever sm ile a t our board .

Full bags , a fr esh bo t tle , and a b eauty .

Go od wine a nd go od company to the lover s o f reasonable

enj oy ment .
2 14 T OAS TS AND SE N TI ME N TS

Ban k
’
T he of England s passport t o travel with and the ,

Queen s pictur e for a compan ion

’ ’

M ay the parch ed p ea n ever j ump out of the frying -p an into

the fire .

’
T he three R s : R eading R iting and R ithmetic
’ ’
, , .

M ay ev il communications nev er corrupt good manners .

M ay th e celebrated pin a day of which we have heard so ,

m uch alwa ys make the groat a y ear

, .

M ay the groat a y e ar never be unwise ly in vested in a Joi nt

S tock C ompany .

M ay that man n ever grow fat

Who carries two faces under one hat .

Here s to the best ph y sicians Dr Diet Dr Qui et and

’
-
.
, .
,

Dr M erry man
. .

Here s to the feast that has plent y of meat and very littl e
’

table cloth
- .

Here s to the full purs e that never lack s friends

’
.

M ay fools mak e feasts an d wise men eat them , .

Here s to th e man who n ever lets his tongue cut his o wn

’

throat .

Heres t o the man who n ever quarrels with h is bread and

’

bu tter .

Here s to the man who never look s a gift horse in the m outh
’
- .

Her e s t o the old bird that is not to b e caught with chaff

’

C ONSER V ATIV E .

A health to t h ose ladies who set the exampl e of wearing

B ritish pr o ductions .

May Her M aj esty s M inisters ever have wisdom to plan our

’

institutions and energy and firmness to support them

,
.

C onfusion to all demagogues .

May the pgo ductio ns of Britain s isle never b e invaded by ’

foreigners .
 TOAS TS AND SE N TI ME N TS . 2 15

M ay th e thron e and th e altar n ever want standing armies

to bac k them .

O ur old n obilit y .

The man who builds up rather than h e who pulls down .

The l oyal adherents of the Queen and th e tru e friends of the

people .

The equilibrium of State ma y i t alwa y s be preserved

, .

The ancient wa ys .

Judicious reforms an d reformers .

The universal advancemen t of th e arts and scienc es .

All our independ ent n obles and nobl e hearts .

May the dispensers of j ustice ever b e im partial .

M ay French principles never corrupt Eng l ish m anners .

M a y the interests of the monarch and mon arch y never be .

thought distinct .

May the worth of the nation be ever inestimabl e .

M ay taxation be lessened annuall y .

M a y the G a ll ic cock be always c l ipped b y B ritish valour if h e

crows too l oud .

M ay the sword o f justice be swayed b y the hand of mercy .

M ay the s eed s of dissension n ever fin d growth i n the soil o f

G reat Britain .

May the love of coun try be imprinted i n every B riton s breast ’

.

May our statesmen ever posses s the j ustice of a M ore and the
wisdom of a B acon .

Queen an d C ountry .

L iberty n ot licence
,
.

C onfusion to all men who deser t the ir party .

Party ties before all other ti es .

The Queen : ma y she outlive her M inisters , and may the y

live long .

A lasting cement to all con t ending p owers .

The protectors of co mmerce and the promo t ers of ch arity .

2 16 TOAS TS AND SEN TIAIEN YS .

A revision of the c ode of criminal laws .

The Bar, th e P ulp it, an d the Throne .

GASTR ONOMIC .

o ld England s
’
o t bee f : may
r as it ev er be the standing dish
of Britons .

O ur con s titu tio nal fri ends — the Baron and the Sir-loin .

R oast beef : may i t alwa ys enn oble o ur vei ns and enrich o ur

blood .

The roast be ef of old England .

The Union dish : English b ee f, Sco t ch k ale, and Irish

po t atoes .

ENGLI SH .

Englan d hom e,
, and b eau ty .

English oak an d B ritish valour .

E ngland for ever the land we liv e in .

England Scotl and and I reland m ay their uni on remain nu

, ,

disturb ed b y plots or treachery to the end of ti me .

England the queen of the isles an d the qu ee n of the main

, .

May old En glan d s so ns , the Americ ans , n ever

’

m oth er .

I R ISH .

A high port to the enemie s

of Ould Ir eland .

Erin, the lan d of the b rave and the bo l d .

2 18 T OAS TS AND SE N TIM E NTS .

Addition t o our trade , mul tiplicati on to our manufac t

ure s,
subtraction to t axes and reduction to places and pensi o n s
,
.

All the honest reform ers of our c ountry .

Britai n ma y the land of our n ativit y ever b e the a b ode o f

freedom and the birthplace of heroes
,
.

B ritain s annal s : ma y the y n ever su ffer a moral or political

’ '

blot .

C onfusi on to those wh o barter th e cause of their country for

.

sordid gain .

C onfusion to tho se wh o wearing th e mas k of patriotism pull

, ,

i t o ff and desert the cause of liberty in the hour of tri al .

C onfusion to those despots who combine against the l iberties

of mankind .

D isappointment to all those wh o form expecta ti ons of places

and pensions o n the rui n of their c ountry .

E verlasting life to the man who gave th e death -blow t o the

slave trade .

C ommun it y unit y navigation an d trade

, , , .

Faith in ever y k in d of commerce .

Freedom t o th e oppressed and slavery to the oppressors

, .

Freedom to all who dare contend for it .

O blivion t o all party rage .

Humanit y to all created beings, espe ciall y to our own speci es,
whether black or white .

No p art y except mank in d .

M ay the mean est Briton scorn th e high es t slave .

O ld En gland : an d ma y those who ill use her be speedily kicked

-

of
f.
May Great B ritain an d I reland b e ever equally d istinguishe d
b y their lov e of l iberty and tru e patriotism .

May e y ery succeed ing century m aintain the principles of the

g l ori ous R evo l ut i on enj oy the b l essings of them and trans
, ,

mit them to future ages unimpaired and improved .

May th e whol e universe be incorporated in one cit y, an d every

inhabitant presen ted with the fre edom .
 TOAS TS AND SE N TJM E N TS . 2 19

May B ritons share the triumphs of freedom and e ver contend ,

for the righ ts and liberties of mankind .

May free dom s fi re t ak e n ew birth at the grave of libert y

’
.

M ay our country be as i t has ever be en a secure as y lum to

, ,

the unfortunate an d oppressed .

High wages and sense to keep them

, .

M ay the freedom of el ection be preserved th e t rial by j ury ,

maintain ed and the libert y of the press secured to the latest

,

p osterity .

M ay the tree of libert y fl ourish round the globe and every ,

human being partake of the fruits .

Ma y truth an d libert y prevail through out th e world .

M ay all partial an d i mp olitic taxes be abolished .

M ay B ritons never have a t y r ant to oppose either i n C hurch

or S tate .

May the sons of l ibert y marry th e d aughters of virtue .

M ay B ri tons never sufie r i nvasion nor invade th e righ ts o f

'

others .

May th e miseries of war be banished from all enlightened

nations .

May our trade and manu factures be unrestrained b y the fetters

of m onopo ly .

May the whole world become more enlightened and civilize d .

Ma y revolutions never ceas e wh ile tyranny e xists .

O ur constitution as settled at the R evolution .

M ay the people of England alway s O ppose a bad Minis try , and

give v igour to a good on e .

The B ritish L ion m ay he never rise in anger nor lie do wn in

fear
.

T he maj esty of the people of England .

T he memory o f our brave ancestors who brought abou t the

R evo l ution and ma y a similar Spi ri t actuate th eir descend
,

ants.

The sacred decree o f heaven — L e t all man k ind be free .

The B ri tish C onstitution and co nfusion to those who di slik e it .

2 20 TOAS TS AND S EN TI ME NTS .

The p eo ple — t he only source of legitimate power .

The subj ect of li bert y and the libert y of th e subj ect .

The non -electors of Great Britain ma y the y sp eedil y be enfran

'

The grea tes thappiness of the grea t es t num ber .

May the nation tha t plots against an other s li b erty ’

or pr os;

perity fall a victi m to its o wn intrigu es .

L IT ER AR Y .

Tolera ti on and lib erty of th e press .

The Fourth Estate .

The liber ty of the press and su ccess t o its defenders

, .

The Press the grea t bulwar k of our liberti es, and may it
;main unshackled .

The glorious li teratur e of Scotlan d .

The glorious literat ure of Ireland .

The gl orio us l iterature o f Engl and .

L OY AL .

QU EEN VI CTOR IA : and ma y her roy al o fispring adorn the

’

position the y are destined to fill .

All the roy al famil y .

A spe dy ex p ort t o all the enemi es of Bri tain without a draw

bacfi
A lasting p eace or an honourable war .

A heal th to our Englis h patriots .

Agriculture an d i ts improvers .

All the societies associated for promoting th e happ in ess of the

huma n race .

All the charitab l e institu t ions of Great Britain .

An Englishm an s castl e—his house m ay it stand for ever

’
.
2 22 T OAS TS AND SE N TI M E N TS .

May the thr one and the alt ar never want standing armies to
bac k th em .

May B ritons secure the ir conquests by clemenc y .

M ay we as citi z ens b e free w ithout faction , and as subj ec ts

loyal without servi l ity .

May loyalty flourish for ever .

Ma y l iberty ever find an altar in B ri tain surround ed b y de

voted wors hippers .

M ay the British bull never be cowed .

M ay our hearts ever be possessed wi th the lov e of countr y .

May the B ritish soil alone produce free dom s 5 0 115

’
.

Ma y the brave n ever w an t protection .

M a y sovereigns and subj ects reign in each other s hearts b y

’

l ove .

Ma y we ever honestly uphold our rights .

M a y we never cease to deserve well of country .

M ay Britons ever defend with bold unfl inch ing han d,

,

T he ir throne their a l ta r and th e ir native land

, , .

May the liberties of the people b e immortal .

M ay th e heart of an E n gli shman ever be L iberty Hall .

Ma y the brow of the brave be adorned by the han d of beaut y .

M a y we never find danger lurk i ng on the borders of security .

M ay the laurels of G reat Britain never be b lighted .

May all mank ind make free to enj oy the b l essings of liberty ,

but never take th e li berty to subvert the principles o f

freedom .

M ay Britann ia s band ever be armed wi th th e bolts of Jove

’
.

M ay the ens ign of loyalty fl oat over u s— the j a ck of p ure

patriotism l ead u s — and may the penda nt of every B ri tish
m a n-o f-war serve as a cat -o -nine -tai ls to whi p our enemi es
’

wi th .

May England s name and Englan d s fame stand for ever pure,
’ ’

great and free .

May e ve ry true Briton be p ossessed of peace , plent y , and

‘
conten t
. .
 TOAS TS A ND S EN TI M E N TS . 223

May ever y
’
l eave his native land at honour s call,
B riton
T o fight to conquer or like W o l fe to fall
, , , , .

M a y every Briton act the patriot s part

’
.

Ma y victo ry spin the robe of glory for the brave and fam e ,

enro l his deeds .

M a y the la ws never be misconstrued .

M ay the weight of our tax es never b en d the bac k Of our

credit .

M a y increasing success crown the island of traders ,

And its shores p rov e the grave of a ll foreign invaders .

M ASONIO .

Ma y every worthy brother who is wil l ing to work and labour

through the day be happy at night with his friend his
, ,

love and a cheerfu l glass

,
.

M a y al l freemasons be enabled to act in a strict conformit y to

the ru l es of their order .

M ay our actions as masons be properl y squared .

M a y mason ry fl ourish un til natu re expi re ,

And its g l ories ne er fade till the w orld is on fire

’
.

Th e female fri ends of freemasons .

M a y the brethren of our g l orious craft b e ever distinguished

in the w or l d by their regular lives more than b y their ,

gloves an d aprons .

M ay conco rd peace and harmony subsist i n all regular

, ,

lodges an d al ways distinguish freemas ons

, .

Ma y masonr y prove as universal as i t is honourable an d

useful .

M ay every brother learn to live within the compass and ,

watch upon the square .

M ay the lodges in this place be distingu ished for love peace, ,

and harmony .

All n oblemen and right wo rshipful bro thers who have be en

'

g rand masters .
 TOAS 7IS AND SE N TI AIE N TS
'
.

ay pe a ce ,
harm on y and con cord subs i
,st among freema‘
s o ns.

a nd ma y every idl e disput e and fri volous d istincti on be

buri ed in Obli vion .

All regular lodges .

All the fri ends of the craft .

As we meet upo n th e level may we part u pon the square

, .

All fai th ful and true broth ers .

All b ro thers who have be en gran d mas ters .

E very brother who k eeps the k e y of k nowledge fro m in~

trud ers but ch eer full y gives i t to a worth y broth er
, .

Every brother who main tai ns a consistenc y in lov e and sin

cerity in friendship .

Every worth y broth er who was at fi rs t dul y repar ed ,

whose heart s till retains an awfu l regard to e three grea t

ri ghts of maso nry .

G olden eggs to every broth er and goldfinches to our lodges , .

Honour and influen ce to every publi c -spiri ted b roth er .

All freeb orn so ns of the ancient an d hon ourable craft .

May the square plum b -line and lev el regulate the c onduc t
, ,

of e very brother .

May the morning have n o oc casi on t o cens ure the nigh t spen t
b y freemaso ns .

May the hearts of fr eemasons agree al though their heads ,

shoul d d iffer .

M ay every mason par ticipat e in th e happiness of a b rother .

M ay every broth er have a heart to feel and a han d t o give .

May dis cord party rage, an d insolence b e for ever root ed out
,

from among masons .

May covetous car es be unk n own to fr ee masons .

M ay all freemasons go han d in han d in the roa d of vi rtue .

May we be m ore rea dy to correct our o wn fa ul ts than t o

p ublish the errors of a broth er .

M ay the p rospect of rich es n ever induce a mason t o do tha t

w hich is repugna nt to vi rtue .

May uni t y and l ove be ev er stamped upon the mason s ’

m
226 T OAS TS AND SE NTI M EN TS.

May th e arm s b orn e b y a soldier n ever be used in a bad

cause .

May B ritish soldiers fight to p rotect an d conquer to save, .

Ma y the gifts of for tune n ev er cause us t o steer out of our

lati tude .

M ay the bro w of the brave n ev er want a wr eath of la u rel t o

adorn i t .

May the arm y of Great Britain never feel disma y ed at i ts

enemies .

M ay th e brave soldier wh o never turn ed his b ac k t o the

“

e nemy nev er have a fr ien d turn his back to him .

M ay bronz e and m edals not be the only reward of the brave .

M ay n o rotten members infect the whole corp s .

M ay th e la urels of Great B ri tain never be blighted .

M ay all weap ons of war he used for warlik e purp oses only .

M ay the soldi er n ever fa ll a sa crifi ce but to glory

"

T o the m emory o f Sir John M oore and all the brave fellows
,

who fell w ith him i n the action of C orunna and may thei r
gallant conduct s ti mulate every Bri tish soldier in the hour
O f danger .

T o the memory of all b rave soldi ers who fall in defence o f

the ir country .

T he mem o ry of a great general an d splendid genius , though

a mbiti o us and t y rann ic — Nap oleon B onaparte .

NAVAL .

May mu ch as our b rave old oaks

'

o ur iron-cla ds do as .

M ay John Bull ever b e co m m a nd en in chief of the ocean -

.

M ay Old E ngland a world W i thin h erself, reign safe for e ver

,

in her fl oating towers .

T o the memory of Nelson and all li k e him , .

G ree nwi ch Hospital an d its supporters .

May ev ery Bri tish seaman fight b ravel y and be rewarded

ho nourabl y .
 TOAS TS AND SE N TIME NTS . 22 7

May rudders govern and shi p s obe y .

M ay n o tru e son of Neptun e ever flinch from his gun .

M ay no son of the ocean ever b e devoured b y his moth er .

Ma y our navy never k now defeat bu t b y name .

May our sailors for ever prove lords of the main .

M ay th e deeds never be forgot that were done at T rafalgar

and W aterloo .

M ay the cause of British lib ert y ever b e defended b y her

hearts of oak .

M ay our o ffice rs and tars be val ian t and brave .

Success to the fair for manning the n avy .

M ay gales of prosperit y waft us to the port of happ iness .

M a y our seamen from the captai n t o the cab in boy, be l ik e

,
-

our ships hearts of oak

, .

M ore hard ships for Britain an d l ess to her enemies

, .

M ay the p ilot of rea son guide us to the harbour of rest .

M ay the memory of the noble Nelson inspire every sea man

t o do his dut y .

May the tar who loses one ey e i n defence of hi s coun try ,

n ever see distress with the other .

Shoul d the French come to D over, may the y mis -Deal in

their landing .

T o Nelson s m emory here s a h eal th,

’ ’

And to his ga ll ant tars ,

And may our British seamen bold

D espise both wounds an d scars
M ak e France and Spain ,
A nd al l the main ,

And a ll their foes to k now,

’
B ritons reign o er the m ain
While the stormy winds d o b low .

The Briti sh navy the world s chec k string

,
’
-
.

The h eart of a sa ilor m ay lik e heart of oak .

T hough our bold tars are fortune s sp ort may the y ever bx
’
,
’
fort un e s care .

The flag of Engl and ma y i t e ver b ra ve the battle and the

breeze .
2 28 TOAS TS AND SE NTI M ENTS .

The th e rough sea, the open sea m a y our lives be spe nt

sea ,
u pon it .

The sea , the sleepless guar dian of the world .

Th e memory of L ord Howe and the glorious [ st of Jun e .

Safe arrivals t o o ur hom eward and out ward bo und fl ee ts -

.

R ELIGI OUS .

The fri ends of religion, libert y and sc ience in ev ery part of

,

the globe
Th e h onest re formers of our l aws and reli gion .

Th e clergy of th e United K ingdom who have alwa ys s upport ed

the good cause ma y the y con tinue to do so .

T he Pulp it the Bar an d the T hrone

, , .

T he friends of religi ous tolera ti on , whether the y are wit hin or

Without the Es ta blishm ent .

SENTI MENTAL .

May we ever have a sufli ciency for o urselves and a trifle t o

,

spare for our friends .

May we always loo k forward to be tt er times b ut n ev er be ,

discontented w i th th e presen t .

May the m iseries of war never more have e xistence in the

world .

M ay the wing of friendshi p n ever m oult a feather .

M ay our artists never be forced into artifice t o gain applause

an d fortune .

M ay solid honour soon tak e place of seeming rel igion .

Ma y our thoughts never mislead our j udgm ent .

M ay fili al p ie ty ever be the res ult of a re l igi ous education .

May rea meri t m eet r eward, an d pretens ion its punish ment
l
.
.
2 30 TOAS TS AND SEN TI M EN TS .

A p eriod t o the sorrows of an ingenuous m ind .

A h ealth to o ur sweethearts o ur fri ends and our wi v es

, ,

M ay fortun e smile on the m th e rest of their lives .

M ay genius and merit never want a fri end .

Adam s ale and may so pure an ele men t be alwa ys at hand

’ ”

All that giv es us pleasure .

All our wants and wishes .

All our absent fri ends on land and sea .

An hones t guide and a good pilot .

As we b ind s o ma y we find .

As we trav el through life ma y we live well on the roa d .

Ma y tru th and li berty prevail thr oughout the world .

May we never engage in a bad caus e an d never fly from a

,

good on e .

May dom estic sla very be abolished throughout the world .

May the frui ts of E ngl a n d s soil nev er be deni ed to her chil

’

SPOR TING .

May the lo vers of the chase nev er wan t the com forts of life .

M ay ev ery fo x hun ter be well mo unted

- .

M ay we always enj o y th e pl easures of shoo ting, and succeed

The staunch houn d tha t n ever spends tongue but wh ere he

ough t
The gall an t huntsm an that pl un ges in to the deep i n pursui t of
h is game .

The clea r sight ed sport sma n that s ees his gam e with one ey e
~
.

The stea d y Sportsman tha t alwa ys brings down his game .

The beagle that runs b y nose and n ot b y sight .

The j olly sportsman that n e ver b ea ts about the b ush .

 TOAS TS AAD / SENTIME N TS . 2 31

The hun t sman s pl easures - the fi eld in the m orn ing and the
’

b ottle at night .

The j o ys of angl ing .

The j oll y sportsman who en t ers t he co vert Withou t be ing bit

b y the fo x
.

M ay the pl easures of sp ortsmen never k n ow an end .

May th e j olly fo x hunter n ever wan t freedom of soul not

-

li be ral ity of heart .

May we alway s gain fresh vigour from the j oys of the chas e .

M ay the Spor tsman s da y be spent in pl easure

’
.

May stren gth the Sportsman s nerves in vigour bra ce ’

M a y crue l t y ne er stain wi th foul disgrace

’

T he wel l -earned pleasures of the chas e .

May th e love of the chase never interrup t our at t ention o f the -

welfare of the country .

May every sport prove as innocent as that of the fi eld .

May the bows of all British bo wm en be strong their s trings ,

sound and may th eir arrows fl y straight t o the m ar k

, .

May we al ways run the game breast hi gh .

M ay those who love the crac k of the whip never wan t a

brush to purs ue .

May the heart of a spo rt sm an n ever know

na m e.

MI SCELL ANEOUS .

The three A s
A bundance , ab stinence , and annihila tion.
A bundance to th e poor .

Abstinence to the intempera t e .

Annihilation to the wi ck ed .

’
The three B s
B achelors, banns, bun s and .

B achelors, for the maidens .

Ba nns for the bach elors .

B uns aft e r the consum ma ti on o f the ham

2 32 TOAS TS AND SEN TIME N TS.
’
The three C s
C heerfulness , c ontent, and com pet ency .

C heerfulness in our cu ps .

C ontent in our minds .

C ompetenc y in our p o ck ets .

The three F s
’

Firm ness freed om and fort i t u de

, , .

Firmn ess in the senate .

Freedom on the lan d

Fortitude o n the wav es
.

The three F s ’

Friendshi p feeling and fi deli ty

, , .

Friendship without interest .

Feeling to our enem ies .

Fidelit y to our fri ends .

The t hree F s Fat, fair and for ty

’
, .

The three ge nerals in peac e

G eneral p eac e .

G eneral plent y .

G eneral satisfact ion .

The three generals in po wer 3

G eneral emplo yme nt .

G eneral industry .

G eneral comfort .

The thre e H s
’

Health honou r and ha p in ces

, , .

Health to all the wor d .

H onour to those who see k for fl.

Happin ess i n our hom es .

The three L s
’

L ov e l ife and li b erty

, , .

L ove pure .

L ife long .

L ibert y boun dl ess .

The three M s ’

M irth music an d m od erat ion

, , .

M irth at every board .

M usic in all instruments .

M oderation in our desires .

The thre e golden b alls of civilization 3

Ind us try, commerce, and wealth .
2 34 TOAS TS AND S E N TI ME N TS .

T HE BA K ER T o Asr — M ay we never be done so much

’
S . as
to make us crusty .

T HE L a wy Te s sa — May
’
ER s the depth of our
never cause us to let j udgm ent go b y default .

L AT IN .

Adfi m m faithful to the end

'

’
erto fidelzr . Be .

A m o r pa lmee T he love of our countr y

'

. .

p age a m icar. L ove your friends .

Da m viz/ 5m m vie/ a m us L e t us l ive whil e we li ve

. .

E slo perpd ua . Be thou perpetu al .

L e t hi m who has won bear the pal m .

j b fzr Fo r o uraltars an d fireside

'

Pro a ris a
’
. .

The vorce of the people is the voice of Go d .

I HE END .

3 1 14 33355 A ND SO NS, PR XNT ER S , G UIL D FO R D SUR W o

,
 Pr i ce 2 3 . e a ch .

R AILW AY L IB R AR Y NOV ELS .

PI CT UR E C OVER S .

Ha m ilton Ai d e . Hono ré d o B al m
Pére G oriot
Poet and Peer .
.

D uchesse de L angeais,
C é s ar B iro rte a u .

W H A i ns wor th
. . . Eu genie G randet .

C ousin Pons
PreSto n Fi ght
.

T he C ountry D octor
.

The T ower of L ondon : the Story

.

T he T wo Brothers
of L ady j ane G rey .

Alkahest
.

W indsor C ast le : A R omance of .

Henry V I II .

M M B ell.
R ook wood with M emoir of Mr
,
.
. .

Ainsworth . T he Secret of a L ife .

Th e L ancashire W itches : A R o

man ce o f Pendl e Forest .

a H B uxton
B e rt h . .

r
G uy Fawkes ; Th e G unpowde Great G re nfe ll G ardens .

T reason .

St la mes s : The C ourt of Queen H e n r y C o ck to n

’
. .

Anne .
l
V a en tine Vox
Old S t Pau l s : A T ale of the
.
’
.
l
Stan ey T horn
Pl ag ue and the Fire
.

C richton .
T P
. . . C oop er .

M ervyn C litheroe l
The D eers ayer
.

Ovingdean G range : A Tale of the

.

T he Pathfinder
S outh Do wns
.

L ast of th e M ohicans.
.

The M iser s D aughter

’
.

T he Pioneers
The Fl itch of Bacon or, T he .

C ustom of D unmow .
T he Prairie .

a ck Shepp ard?
he S pendthrift
M a y Gr o mm et “
A jewe lof a G irl
.

The S tar C hamber : The Days .

ames the First O range L i l y

j
.
.

Aurio l ; or T he El i xir of L ife . Bl ack Abbey .

In the W est C ountrie

,

S tan l ey Brereton .
.

J oy .

M r s C r o we
C aptai n Ar m str ong .
. .

Susan Hople y .

T wo M idshipmen .

Th e W a r Hawk .
C h a r l e s D i ck ens.
T he Young C ommand er .

Pickwick Papers
T he .

”
Sketches b Bo z .

Nicho l as ickleby .

Pride and Prejudice O l iver T wist .

M artin C hu zz l ewi t
.

and S ensibil ity .

.

No rthanger Abbey , and Persuasion . D ombey and S o n .

l
M ansfie d Pa rk. Th e O ld C u riosity Shop
B arnaby R udge .
 Pr i ce 2 3 . e a ch .

B u B o i s g cbe y . w as r en t “
The Bride of a Da y Ma
fi ngifi M
a
- l
T he Ha f S is ter s S ecret
‘
.
Th m
M arried fo r L ove
’ .

.
Destiny .

T he R e d Ban d .

Th e C ondemn ed Door .
Fi eld i ng .

C ash on De livery .

D eath or D ishonour .
Tom 10 0 65
l
The Fe on s Be quest
’
.
J osep h Andrews .

T h e C ry of B oo d l .
Ame
Pickle Heart .

The C at s -Ey e R ing

’
Vo l .

mm The Fea thered Arro w .

Al exa n dr e Dum a s . G . R . 0 13 13 .
T,“Figu r es 8110 10 the o r de r Of the SCQM IJ C he lsea Veterans .

r T hree M usketeers . T he Hussar .

2 T wenty Yea rs After .

3 Vicomte de Bra gelo nne , Vo l . 1 .

M rs Go re . .

4 Vo l . 2.
T he M oney Le nder ,
x M arguerite de Va l ois .
T he D o wager .

0 C ih cot the J ester .

3 The Forty five G uards -

J am e s Gr a nt .

1 The C ons pirators .

Ai de de C a mp : Adventures in
2 The R egent s Da ughter.
'
C ampaign of the Cal abrias .

Artmr Bl an e ; or T he Hunc
‘

1 M emoirs of a Physi cian C uiras siers .

Bothwe ll : T he D ays of M
.

T he Queen s Neckla ce
’
3
Queen of S co ts
.

3 T h e T aking of th e Bastile
.
.

C ameroni ans
4 The C oun tess de C h a rny
.
.

C aptain of the G uar d or ,

T imes of Iam e s I I
Monte C risto .
( Comp lete ) .

C ava l iers of Fortu ne .

.

C o l vi lle of the G uards Afgh ani !

C onsta bl e of France T he S
My Brother s W ife ’
.
Fus i l i er G ua rds Ge n
Ha lf a M illi on of M oney .
W o l fe a nd other M ilitary
.

to ri ettes .

D ea d T ryst : a Haunted L ife .

M ora lT a les ;Forester , etc . Derval Hampton .

l l
Popu ar T a es ; L a m e j ervas , e tc . Dick R od ney Adventures of
Absen tee ; The M odern G rise da , l E ton Bo y .

etc . Di d She Lo ve Him ? A T al e

M an oeuvring ; Vi vian etc , . the Indi an M utiny .

Patro nage Vol r , . . Duk e of Al bany s Highl and: '

VoL 2 ; Comic Dramas, India and Afghanista n .

Du l cie C arly o n South Africa

m
.

en Ormo nd . Fairer than a Fa iry : A T a le of

 Pri ce 2 5 . e a ch .

W . J . N els o n Nea le.

Do g Fiend or Sna rle y Ye w The Pride of the M ess.
W i ll W atch
. .

Frank M ild ma y . o r. Th e Na val .

The Port Admira l .

The Nava l S urgeon .

of a Father
J a ne
.

P o r ter .
M as terman R ea dy . S cottish Chi efs .

M r M ids h ipman Easy

. . T haddeus of W a rsa w .

M onsie ur Vio l et s Adven tu res ’

.

Ne wton Forster .
M rs C a m pbe ll P w d .
O lla Pod rida .
.

Pacha o f M any T ales . Arii ni tieS .

Perciva l Keene W ith M emoirs of .

Ca ptain Ma rryat . M ol och .

Peter Simpl e . T he He ad S tati on.

Phantom Shi p . l
An Aus tra i a n Heroine .

T he Pirate ; The T hree C utters . Aria n a .

M emoir of the Author .

Poacher .
H rs . R a d cli fl e.
'

Poo r lack .

The Mysteri es of U d o lpho

R attli n the R eefer
.

U do lpho . m
Sigg g
fi
R OI
.

an
Va l erie : An Autobi ography
c

ol
,

Hel e n M a th e r-8 .

The S tory o f a Sin .

C lemen t L ori mer .

w k 0 Haze lgree n
‘

e ry
b r
M y L ady G ree n lee vel s
M ay n e R ei d .
.

Ey re s Ac qui ttal
’
. Afl oat in the Forest Peri ls in .

S outh American In l an d W ater s .

Bo y Hunters ; or Adven tures in

M ax w ell
,

Search o f a W hi te Enfi a lo
.
.

S tori es of W ater oo l .
Bo y T ar ; or A Voyag e in the ,

Bria n O Linn ; or , L uck

’ ’
s Eve ry D ark .

hing
t .
B ush Boys ; or Adven tures in ,

Ca ptain Bla ke S outhern Africa .

Clifi Climbers A S eq uel to Pl ant

.
”
Hector O Ha llo ran
'

C apta in O s u llivan Hunters

"
’
.
.

S tories o f the Peninsula r W ar De sert Home or T he Adven tures ,

of a L o st Fam il y in the W il der

.

n ess .

Fata l C ord : Falcon R over

8 . M ou nte ney - J e ph s o n .
Forest E xi l es ; or Peri ls Amid the
.

T o m Bullkley of L iss i ngton . W ilds of the Amazon .

l
T he G ir He L eft Behind Hi m. G ira ff e Hunters : A Sequel to
A Pink W edding T he B us h Boys
"
. .

The R o ll of the Drum .

W ith the C o l ours . Ha iti -Bl ood A T ale of the Flo w

 Pri ce 2 8 . e a ch .

Ma m a R EID —conti n ued . Sir W A L T ER Soon

Hea d l ess Horseman : A Strange C ount R obert of Pari s .

Ta l e of T exas . Fai r M aid of Perth .

Hun ters Feast ; or C onversati ons Fortunes of Nige l

’
, .

Around the C amp -Fire . G u y M annering .

L ost L enore : or T h e Adventures , Heart of M idl othi an .

ll
o f a R o in g S tone . Ivanhoe .

M ar o on : D oin gs in j amaica . Keni l worth .

O cea n W a i ts : A S q
e ue to “
R an l M onastery .

Away to Sea ” . O ld M ortal ity .

P lant Hunters ; or Adventures , Pe ve ril of the Peak .

Among the Himala ya M oun Pirate .

ta ins .
Quentin D urward .

R e d ga u ntle t .

R ob R oy .

R a n Awa y to Se a : A Boy s Ad ven ’

St R.onan s W e
’
ll
.

tures wri tten by Himsel f

. . S urgeon s Daughter ; C astl e
'

R ifle R angers ; or Adventures in . D an gerous ; G ossary l .

S outhern M exico . l
T a isman ; T wo Drovers , etc .

S ca l p Hunters : A R omance of W averl ey .

Northern M exico . W oodstock .

T iger Hunter .

W a r T rai l ; or T he Hunt of the,

Alb e r t S m i th
W i l d Horse
.

W hi te C hief a L egend of Northern M r L e d bu ry

.
’
s Adventure s .

M exico . Scattergood Fami y l .

W hite Ga untl et : The Days of C h risto pher T ad po e l .

C romwe ll . T he Po ttleto n L egac y .

W h ite Squaw T he Ye ll ow C hief .

W i l d Huntress .

W ood R angers .
S m oll e tt.
Young Yagers : A Narrative of
Hunting Adventures in South R oderick R andom .

ern Africa .
Humphry C inker. l
Pereg rine Pickl e .

R i ch ar d s on
E ug e ne S u e
Clari ssa Har l o we .
.

Pame a l .
Th e W andering e w.
Sir C har les G randison .
T he Mysteries 0 Paris .

S ir W a lte r S co tt .
Anni e T h oma-
l.

Anne of Ge ierstein .

Betrothed ;Highla nd W idow Petti coat G overnment ,

Bla ck Dwarf ; A L egend of Mont T he W ido w Barnaby .

Bride of Lammermoor.
 Pr i ce 2 s e a ch .

S a m u el W arren . VA R IO U S Aur no ns - conrml .

T en T housan d a Year The Clives of B a rcot

m
. .

The of a la te Physician . H ESBA Sa '

r ro
'

Nick of the W oods .

“W h i tefi h ” Smuggl er
Au th o r of rs . T he IOHN . BAN!
W hitehall K a lo o la h . M AY
M ornin gs at Bo w Street wi
.

O wen T udor ,
C rui kshank s Pl ates
.
’

T he M aid of O rl eans .

M iss Forre ster M rs EDW A R D

.

W estminster Abbey . .

R ecommended to M ercy
.

E d m u nd Y a tes .
Hel en . M iss E o c nwo m
R o d e nhurs t E M ST EW A
the Gauntl et
. . .

R u nni ng .
T o m C ring le s’
Lo g .

K issing the R od .
M IC HA EL Sco
R o ck Ahead .
Private L i fe of an E astern K ing
Bl ack Sheep
.

.
R omance of M i l itary Li fe
A R ighted W rong
.

.
R obber of the R hine R i r em
T he Y ell ow Fl ag
.

.
T h e Pol ish L ancer R E E L sT A .

T he Impending Swor d .
Iaspe r L y l e M rs W AR
Broken to Harness
. .

Fl ower of the Forest S R OB

J
.
.
.

T wo by T ricks .
T he C r ui se o f the M id ge ’

D r W ainwright s Patien ts
.
’
. .
M IC HA EL SC O ] ’

W recked in Port .
T he Prodigal Daughter .

Nobody s Fortune K
'

.
MAR H0
The C hi l dren o f the Abbey .

V ar i o u s A u th o rs R M R oc r
. .

f o rlo gh O Brien
’ T o o Fast to L ast .
Io nN M u .

The Hour and the

.

M an l
T a es of the S ave Squadron l .

M iss M A R T I NE A U
.

O livia R a eigh l
W W F S INC . . . .

T he Adventures of R obins on Pl
.

Prairie Bir d Sir C M U R R A Y

fe ll o w
. . .

S al athie l Dr C R OL Y
.

T he D octor s Fami l y
. . . '

T h e B ashful I rishman
.

U ncl e C hesterton s Heir

. '

T he C urate and the R ector .

M adame C OL O R
.

E S rR U rr '

Here Be l o
w A SC OFIE L
.

J
.

G reatest P a gue of L ife , l M A YHEW ,

Wo ma 6 10 1 5
. .

C ru ikshank s Pla teS

G 8gi
' "

“5 9 ro m t11 8 W orld
. .

Hajj i Baba
of Ispahan M OR IER
W hom to M arry with C ruikshank s ,
.

'
.

Th e 1
9
23
3 H0 “ 3 f
Bu nxnoo u
Pla tes
M n u m E nwe n
.

gre a gY
n d ge t
V idoc q , the French Po lice Spy .

m
.

s
l
G i deroy . FITT IS .
a 0
L ad y V IOL ET G a nvu
o

l
S ing eton Fontenoy . HA NNAY .

Mr Potter of T exas
.

G ideon G i es the R operl .

.

A C G t mr r
.

. .

AM ER I CAN L I B R A R Y , at 2 5 each , boards . .

The G il de d Ag e M A R K T W A IN Innocents Abroad ,

. and the N
and C D W A R NE R. . . Pilgrim s Progress M A R K T WA]
’

R oughin g Innocents at O ther Peopl e s C hil dren

'
It, and .

Hom e . M A R T wAm K . Au thor o f He en l ’

s Babie
Marj orie Dew . T. B AL DR ICB . .
 FL O R IN NOVELS , C lo th .

( Contin ued )
R ev J . G I ng r a h a m
. . . 03 m m
The Prin ce o f th e House of Davi d . Frank M i d ma y l .

M idshi pm an Eas y .

Phantom Ship .

Peter S imp l e .

T he King s Own
'

L a wrence .
.

G e or ge A .
Ne wt on Forster .

Guy L i v
ingston e Fa ithful
An teros .
.
J
ac ob
e Pacha of M any T al es
.

Sword a nd G own .
Ja phe t in Search o f a Father .

Do g Fi end .

Ch ar l es L ever .
Poacher .

Han Lo rrequ er Perciva l Keene

?
.

C har es O Ma lley
’
. M onsieu r Viol et .

J a ck Hinton . R attli n the R ee fer

, .

Arthur O L eary.
’
Val erie .

C o n C regan . Pirate ; T hree C utters .

Horace T emp eton. l Poor J ack .

M asterm an R eady .

S a m uel L over .
O lla Podrida .

Hand- S ettlers in C ana da

y Andy .
.

R ory O
'
M o re .
The Mi ssion S cenes in Africa .

T h om a s M ill e r
Author s Copy right Re iv sed on
E di ti
' .
s

33333n
1 t° be fw d
: G ideon G i l es the R oper .

Pelham .

Th e Ho n 0 A M ur r ay . . . .

E ugene Aram .

L ast Da ys of Pom peii.

Ali“ ; 0 1 The M " m w J . . N el s o n }! e a le.

Night a nd M orni ng .
Th e Pri de of the M ess
D so wned
.

’
T he Port Admi ral .

l
Le i a ; Pilgrims of the Rhine.
l
Falk and Z i cci .
The Story of Avis .

Z anoni .

Harol d .
J ane P or ter .

Scotti sh Chi efs .

T he C oming
A SW S ‘O W m
‘

. R a d cltfl e.
K enelm Chilling]
‘ usaniss ; and he ? Hau nted and The R oma nce o f the Forest.
the Ha mste r; The Mysteri es of Udo lpbo .
 FLO R IN NOVELS , C lo th .

( Conti nued )
S IR W A LT ER Scorr —cos fi nud .
Ca pta i n M ay ne R e i d.
The M onas tery
lp
.

T he Sca Hun ters . T he Abbot .

Th e R ifle R angers . K eni lworth

l
.

T he Vk a r T rai
’
.
Th e Pirate .

T he W hite C hief .
Fortunes of Ni gel .

T he Quadroon .
Pe ve ril of the P eak
l
.

T he W hite G aunt et. Quentin Durward .

L os t L enore .
S t R onan s W e ll
.
’
.

T h e Hun te rs Feas t
'

. R ed ga untlet
l
.

T he Bo y S aves .
Be trothed . and High and W ido w. l
T he C li rr C imbers l .
l
Th e T a isman , and T wo Drovers
T he G iraffe Hunters. W ood stock .

T he Fai r M aid of Pe rt h .

Anne of Ge ie rs tein .

C oun t R obert of Paris .

T he S urgeo n ’
s Daughter
l
.

Clariss a Ha r owe .

Pamela
8m m
.

l
Sir C har es G randi so n
'

R oderick R andom .

Hum phry C inker l .

Peregrine Pick e l .

The C hi l dren of the Abbey .

M rs . 11 . 8 . S te w.
3 9“ 3 P 3 0 9°
Uncl e T om s C abin
'

Barriers Burned Away .

O pening a C hestnut B urr

E u g e ne 8 1 1 0 .
.

W hat can She Do ?

W andering Ie w .

M y stenes of Pans
M i ch a el S cott
.

T orn C ring le s ’
Lo g .
8 11 o1 W n .

The C rui se Of the u

M i dge .
n
T e n T housand a Year
ma
.

T he DM o f a La te Phya
' ‘

s ir W al te r S co tt .

W ith S te e l u “011
!o3m
n t° Eli z a beth W e th er en .
u e.
W averl ey . Th e W ide W ide W orld
, .

G uy M anneri ng .
Queechy ,

O ld M o rta ity l . T he Old He l m et .

Heart of M idl othian .

R ob Roy .

Ivanhoe .

T he Anti q uary .

B ride of L amm ermoor . Hum orous American G ems .

l
B ack D warf and Le ge nd of N obody ’
s Fortune . E YAm
.

M arjori e Daw . T B AL DR IC H.
. .
 Pr i ce Is . each.

RAILWAY LIBR AR Y NOVEL S .

In Picture Pape r C overs .

w . n . Ai nsworth . l s. pape r 3 . P en i m o r e C oop e r

2 . m, .
papa
covers . covers .

Aurio l .
Afloat and As hore : A Sequel tc
Boscobel .
M i l es W all in gford .

C richton .
Borderers or , T he Heath co tes
l
.

F itch of Bacon. B ravo : A Ta l e o f Venice .

l
D eers ayer or, T he First W ar Path .

Eve Etfi ngha rn A Seq ue t: l

Homewar d Bound "
.

Headsman .

Heid enma uer : A L egen d of the

M isers Daughter
'
.
R hine
Old S t Paul s
.
’

. .
Homewar d Bound ; or The C hase
O vingdean G range
, .

.
L as t of the M ohi cans .

l
L ione Li nco ln ; or, The Le ague:
S pendthrift .
of Boston .

S tar C hamber .
l ll
M es W a ing ford or , L ucy Hat
i
.

St Ia m es s
'

. .
din ge
T ower of L o nd on.
.

Ne d M y ers ;or L ife before the M ast

W indsor C ast e l .
Pioneers ; or The Sources of the ,
. .

S us quehanna .

R ed R over .

B ra -
P . n E nn . ett. paper Sa ta ns toe or T he L ittlepage ,

covers . M anuscripts .

Sea Li ons ; or The L ost Sea l ers , .

Do ll y . W yandotte ; or The Hutted Knoll . .

Kathl een .

Our Neighbour Oppo si te .

M iss C respigny .

L in d say s L uck Al exa n dr e Dum as paper

’
. . ts .
,
T he T ide on the M oaning Bar .
c overs .

Arr a ng ed m the ordcr qf tfze S equels ,

W illi a m C ar l et on . ( S q paper
covers . The T hree M usketeers .

T wenty Years After .

Iane Si ncla rr
'

T he C arionet l .

The T ith e Proctor .

T he Emi gr an ts . C hicot . the ester .

Fard aro ugha . The Forty ve G uardsmen .

 Pr i ce 1 8 e ach .

RQUT LEDG E S S HIL L ING NOVELS

’
.

W e ll Boun d in CLOTH .

S u itaéle f or Clubs, lVorkzhg M en s I nsti tutes, Fr ee L i bra ries, d c

' '
.

w . n Ai ns worth
. . l s. C loth . Willi am C ar l e ton . rs. C lot h.
J ane S incl air
W i ndsor C as tl e
.

.
T he C lafi o ne t ,

T ower of L ondon . Th e T i the Proctor.

The M iser s D aughter
'
.
Fa rd aro ugha .

Emi gran ts
R ookwood .

O ld St Paul s.
’
. J . r e ni m o re C oo pe r ; rs. C lo th.
C richton . T he L ast of the M ohi cans .

G uy Fawkes .
T he Pioneers.
T he R ed R over
The Spendthri ft
.
.

T he Spy .

Iames the Second .

l
L ione L inco n l .

T he S tar C hamber . T he D eerslayer : The First W ar

The Fl itch of Bacon .
Path .

T he Bravo : A T al e o f V eni ce
L ancashire W itches
.

T he W aterwitch or The Skimmer

.

M ervyn C l itheroe
.
.
of the Seas .

O vingdean G range . Sa ta nstoe or The Li ttl epage ,

M an uscripts
Stfj a mes s
' .

Afloat and As hore : Se quel to M iles

.

Ann o l W a ll ingf ord

'

.
.

lack Sheppard . W ya ndotte or The Hutted Kno ll . .

Boscobe l .
Eve Etfi ngham : S equel to Hom e
M anchester R ebels
ward Bound .

.
M il es W allingford or Lucy ,

T he Hea dsm an .

Homeward Boun d .

The Bor dere rs ; or. The Hea thco tes.

T he Se a L ions .

M r s r E B u r nett
. . . . ls . C loth .
Ned M yers or, L ife Before the
M ast .

He idenm a uer : A L egend of the

Kathleen R hine .

l
.

T he Pi ot
O ur Neighbo ur Opposite
.

.
Pathfinder .

T wo Admi ra s l .

L indsay s L uck '

.
Prairie .

P recauti on
T ha t L ass o Lo wri e s ' ’
.

O ak O penings .

The Ti de on the M oaning Ba r . M ark s R eef

'

.
 Pr i ce 1 8 . e ach .
( Continued )

Al exand r e Dum as . l s. C loth . Na th ani el Ha wth o r ne

rs. C loth .
The Three M usketeers .

T wenty Years After .

T he Scarlet L e tter .

D r Bas i l ius
. .
House of Seven G abl es .

T he T wi n C aptain s . M osses from an Old M anse .

C aptai n Pau l .

C hevali er de M aison R ouge .

C ounte ss de C harny . M ar k T wa i n . ls . C loth .

M onte C risto 2 vo l s ( rs each)

l ebrat ed j umping
. . .

Ce Frog
,
The .

Nanon .
Authors E dition wi th a
'

, C opy
The T wo Dianas . ri ght Poem .

T he Bl ack T ul ip .
R oughing It .

T he T aking of the Bas tile 2 vol s ,

.
Innocents at Home .

( 1 3 each )
. .

M ark T wain s C uriou s Drea m

'

C hicot the j ester .

T he I nnoce nts Abroad

.

The C onspirators
.

T he New Pi l grim s Progress

.
'

Ascanio
.
.

Page of D uke of Savoy .

I sa be l of Bavaria .

C a ptai n M ar ry a t rs. C lot h

Beau T ancrede
. .
.

The R egent s D aughter

’
.
Peter Simp l e .

Pau l ine .
Th e K ing s O wn
’
.

C atherine Blum .
M idshipman Easy .

Newton Forster .

Hal f Brothers
Ja phe t in S earch of a Father
.
.

Memo irs of a Physician ,

T he Poacher
.

( rs each)
.

. .

T he Pha ntom Shi p

Queen s Necklace
' .

Perciva l K eene
.

Forty -five G uar d sme n. .

R us sian G ipsy .
Frank Mi l d may .

W atchmak r e .
Oll a Podri d a .

Mohicans of Pari s .
Poor Jack ,

R att l in the R e efer .

Pacha .

Geral d Gri fi n . rs. C loth .

lacob Faithful .

Do g Fiend .

M unster Fe stival .
V a l erie .

The R ivals . M onsieur V iolet .

ll
Co egia ns.
. Pirate and Three Cutters
 Pr i ce I s . ea ch .

-S IZ E S HIL L I
R OUT LEDG E S L AR G E NG ’

NO VELS . C O MPL ET E EDIT IO NS .

D em y 8vo .

T o m Jone s . HENR Y FIEL D ING . Handy Andy SA M U EL L OVER . .

T ristram Shandy and a Sentimental W andering ew E U GE NE S UE . .

J ourney L AU R E NC E S T E R NE
. . M ysteries 0 Paris D itto . .

Mysteri es of U d o lpho . L es M isera bles V IC TO R HU GO . .

Mrs R A DC L IFFE . . Artemus W ard— Hi s Boo k and his

Pickwick Papers . T rave s l .

C HA R L ES D ro s s . T en T housand a Year .

Nick eby D itto l . . S A M U EL W A R R EN .

l
Va entine Vox HENR Y C OC K T ON . . M onsieur Le co q .

Peregr ine Pick e l . EM IL E G A BOR IA U .

T OBIA S SM OL L E TT . l
S a ves of Paris D i tto
. .

M onte C ris to AL E X A NDR E DU M A S

. . R eg i na d l Vernon or, T he Fata l
T hree M usket eers and T wenty L ikeness .

Years After . o ld Lo ndon Bridge .

AL EX A NDR E DU M A S . G . H R ODWELL . .

Innocents Abroad and the Ne w Hea d l es s Horseman .

Pi lgr im s Progress
'
. CA PT A IN M A YNE R E l D .

M A R K T W A IN .

L T ON S NOV E L S
Y T '
( T he P ock et-V olu m e Ed i ti on ) is bei ng
issued i n M onthly V olumes i n the foll owing Sty les of B indi ng :
.

Paper cover cut edges or uncut edges , , .

l s. 6d C loth
. bac k , marbl ed sides , cut ed ges or uncut, ed ges .

Le a ther bac k , gilt top cut edges , or uncut edge s

, .

Pe lham ; or The Adventures , L ucretia .

of a G entleman . T he C a rtons .

The L as t Days of Pompeii . D evereux .

l
G odo phin Ca deron l .

E rnest Maltra vers . Kene lm C hiflingly .

Al ice .

l
Falk and : The Pi grims l of the
Night an d M orning . R hin e : and Pausanias .

Pa ul Cli fford . The C oming R ace ( Ju ly

D isowned . M y Nove , Vo I ( A ug l l . .

A S trange Story . Do Vo 2 ( S ept

. l . .

Harol d . Do Vo 3 ( Oct
. l . .
 th e S k i n
S UM M ER S HEAT o r W lNT ER S
’ ’
r

It kee ps the S ki n C o o l a nd R efreshed on the Hottest D a y in

\

Su rnme r and S oft and S mooth in the C o l dest W inter

'
.
,

Of all C he mists and Perfumers . Ffee for 3d extra by the M ak ers

. ,
H. R . H P R I NC E
.
DAI NTY MOR SEL S IN

ALBERTS
’

CAGHOUX .

A 000 1 0
‘

Fo r mending every Articl e of Ornament or

Furniture C hina G l ass
, E arthenware
, e , ,

Al so fo r M ounting C abinet S pe cimens of Nature

and Art It surpasses in ne atness in strength
.
, ,

an d cheapness and retains its vi rtues in a ll

,

c l imates It has stood the test of ti me and in

.
,

a ll quarters of the gl obe .

Fo r t ak ing out G R EAS E O IL PAINT , , ,

& c from C arpets C urtains C l othes D rapery

.
, , . , ,

Dresses be the materia l C otton L inen Si lk

, , , ,

or W ool or the texture Fine or C oarse

,
.

It c l eans admirabl y K id G l oves and Satin

Slip pers Fans an d Feathers Books C ards
, , , ,

M anuscripts It m a y be free ly used to rinse

.

and wash Frai l or G i l t T rifles to which water ,

wou l d be destr uctive .

FOR LADIES NUR SING — By we aring the .

‘

W ANS B R O U G H Shie d s in ordinary , whi st l l

WANSBROUGHS l
the nipp es are hea thy , they screen from a l ll
l
MTALLIC
externa sources of irri tation T hey are easy to .

l l
we a r ho ding o n ike L impets S ore Nipp es
,
l .

heal whi l st reposing in the bath of mi lk secreted

within the Shie lds which give at the same t ime
,

both C omfort and Protec tion

SH
.

IELDS E ve bo x i s la be lled

Xz/M
N
r ;“ Sbm u gh s
m
’

h e ld
S i . Mad e by

For the removal of Hair without a

JACKSONS Razor, from the Arms, Neck, or Pace, as
well as Sunburn or Tan .

The activity of this depi latory is notabl e. It

1 5 easy and safe It l eaves a W ho l e Skin and
a C l ean C ompl exion
.

S O L D BY T HE PR INC IPAL
DR UGG IS TS .