©EWING

Publisher/Editor
Slundin groms Daniel Emslie, Reilly Andy Davis – [email protected]
Mare and Matt O’Brien getting their Associate Publisher
sugar fix between sessions. ©WULFF
Charlene Mazery – [email protected]
Consulting Editor

On the inside Greg Ewing – [email protected]

Online Editor
Dave Armstrong – [email protected]
10 Editorial Design & Creative Direction
Studio Kronk – [email protected]
12 Big Picture Subeditor
16 Upfront: Champions of Liberia Dave Buchanan – [email protected]

94 Showcase
Photographic Contributors
106 Off the Leash Sacha Specker, Greg Chapman, Kevin
Rom, Neil Bradfield, Alan van Gysen,
108 Jordy Smith on Groms Luke Patterson, Greg Ewing, Paul Naude,
Pat Flanagan, Andres Sanchez, Kelly
110 Close Out: Meanwhile in Nigeria… Cestari, Kal Schultz, Louis Wulff, Ian
112 A Quiet Revolution: Sandile Mqadi Thurtell, Deon Lategan, William Veiltch,
Kody McGregor, Pierre de Villiers, Pete
Freiden, Hennie Potgieter, Catherine

On the outside
Hofmeyr, Karl Liebenberg, Erik Proost,
Scott Mitchell, Michael Venter, Mario
Zedde, Seth Phitides, Tyrone Pascoe,
Seb Millington, Terence Pieters, Ant Fox,
Ricardo Simal, Marshal Whetoayeni.
20 From Gremmies to Men
Shaun Tomson writes about growing up in Durban and learning to surf – and Editorial Contributors
shares some life lessons he learned from his dad. Shaun Tomson, Cassiem Collier, Alan van
Gysen, Sean Holmes, Cyle Myers, Dennis Ellis,

28 Nurture / Nature: SA’s Surf Nurseries Greg Emslie, Paul Canning, Clayton Truscott,
Dylan Muhlenberg, Dougal Paterson, Ben
South Africa is a factory production line for world-class surfing. We asked some
Trovato, Jordy Smith.
well-known locals to sing the praises for their home breaks.
SUBS / CONTRIBUTIONS
44 Zag’s Big Grom Roll Call
Come check this out. We’ve compiled 32 pages of South Africa’s hottest surfing
Subscription queries: [email protected]
We welcome photographic and editorial
talent under the age of 21. Drums please!! contributions. Please e-mail your material
to the relevant person for consideration. We
cannot be held responsible for unsolicited
76 A Brief History of Grom Abuse
Today, the idea of ‘Grom Abuse’ has all but disappeared. But this brutish practice
contributions. ZIGZAG will retain reprint
rights, contributors will retain all other
was a rite of passage into surfing for many of our ballies. What was that all about? rights for resale and re-publication.

ZIGZAG IS PUBLISHED BY
84 Live for Today – and Tomorrow
Concussions and head injuries incurred while surfing heavy waves tend to have a
greater impact on the health of younger surfers. Dougal Paterson ponders whether
big-wave surfing should be age restricted.

8
ZAG 47.3 / Editorial

As they say, “Colours get covers,”

or at least the Editorial page!
Levi Vosloo obliges. ©ROM

Editorial
Andy Davis

T here’s a cool photo of Jordy Smith, holding his son Ziggy on

his hip, that we were planning to run as part of our Grom
Roll Call. Jordy’s basically royalty in SA surfing circles, so why
total population. Diversity matters; both for the future health
of surfing, and for the country as a whole. But surfing doesn't
attract the kind of mainstream sponsorship and support that has
not indulge in a little paparazzo snapshot of his offspring? I ran driven transformation in national pastimes like rugby, cricket and
the idea past Jordy more as a courtesy than anything else, not netball. The barriers to entry for surfing are also much higher.
even considering that he wouldn’t be stoked. But he said no.
“Once he’s up and riding for himself, then I think it’s okay,” But today, transformation in South African surfing is
Jordy shot back. “Ja... he needs to work for this stuff. He can’t happening; and it's driven mainly by a bloom of grassroots
just get given it.” surf initiatives (inspired, and in many cases enabled, by the
It’s a good anecdote for an intro to our Grom Issue, because groundbreaking work of organisations like Surfers Not Street
it offers a glimpse of Jordy, the father; and maybe if you squint Children and Waves for Change). Independent organisations,
hard enough into that bottle, a glimpse of Jordy’s relationship established and run by stoked surfers just like you and me, are
with his own parents and their values. doing the hard work of outreach and inclusion that is rapidly
If there’s one thing I know from having published Zigzag changing the demographic of SA’s surfing community. And in so
for the last decade, it's that the culture of surfing is held by doing, growing and strengthening our surfing family.
families. Family is the context and the medium for passing And that’s a model that should inspire well beyond the beach.
surfing from generation to generation. And even if you’re an Cutting back to the point, you can’t make a Grom Issue without
orphan, or you come to surfing through some variation of a hard acknowledging the role of family. Because it’s in the relationship
luck story, in my experience some resonant corner of the surfing between parents and children – around this absurdly wonderful
community will embrace you, take you in and look after you, as activity of riding waves – that habits, beliefs and actions transfer
best they can. Like family. across generations, and become culture. And wrapped up in that
Being an African surfing magazine, one of the main is an opportunity to change the world.
considerations in putting this issue together has been So to all the legends pushing their groms into foamies on a
representation. We live in a country where the majority of Saturday morning, we salute you.
surfers are white, but white people only make up 7% of the Now, let’s meet the groms!

1O
ZAG 47.3 / Big Picture

Big
Picture
E li Beukes is fresh out of the
grom category. After a few
disappointing competitive results,
he has committed himself to a free
surfing future. And much like the
wave stretching out in front him,
that future is full of possibility.

12
©BRADFIELD
©EWING
 Big Picture / ZAG 47.3

Big Picture
A fter the highs and lows of a brief competitive career,
Ntando 'Biggie Smiles’ Msibi has found a home in
surfing, working at Durban’s Surf HQ. And while he's
no longer a grom, the youthful enthusiasm he brings
to his surfing still turns heads at the New Pier.
ZAG 47.3 / Upfront

James Brown puts one on the rail for the crowd on the beach. ©PATTERSON

Eric Flomo stalls while his friend Roosevelt paddles back to the top. ©PATTERSON
 Regan Tregbe, who just went viral on Instagram
surfing a plank of wood before heats, doing some
damage on fibreglass in the event. ©PATTERSON

The Champions of Liberia!

South Africa, Morocco, Senegal and Ghana are the African countries
most people associate with surfing. But watch out for Liberia!

B lessed with a succession of world-class left-handers and

a dedicated and growing surfing community, Liberia is
destined to produce some of West Africa’s finest waveriders.
calendar, and brings the whole extended community down to the
beach to watch. The Robertsport Surf Club is owned and run by the
community, with a club house right on the beach, and a steady supply
This year, the 10th Annual Liberian National Surfing of affordable surfboards provided by Swiss NGO Provide the Slide,
Championship attracted competitive surfers from the whole who collect and redistribute surfboards from Europe to West Africa.
region – Ghana, Senegal, Côte d’Ivoire, Sierra Leone and So the whole town of Robertsport has access to surfing on
São Tomé – to battle it out with Liberia’s finest on the perfect the perfect points out front. And the results are showing…
sand-bottomed points of Robertsport. The next generation of Liberian groms are on fire! The foundations
The annual surf competition is the biggest event on the social are strong. Watch this space.

Anthony Weah styles off the top. ©PATTERSON Sam Nalomie slashes into a downcarve. ©PATTERSON

17
 Gremmies to Men / ZAG 47.3

From the outset, I gotta say we were called ‘gremmies’, not ‘grommets’.
‘Grommets’ came a long time later – in the 70s, and out of Australia.
My Dad, who had flown in the RAF’s 12 Bomber Squadron in the Second
World War, bombing the Nazis and fascists in North Africa, told me the
word came from ‘gremlins’. If anything went wrong with a plane, it was
the work of gremlins: mythical little creatures that caused trouble and
played pranks.
Like us, I suppose.
We would dig holes in the beach, and cover the opening with
newspaper and sprinkles of sand. Then we’d lie in the hot Durban sand
watching the Vaalies run by in their Speedos, and crack up as they tripped
into the holes.
Sometimes, we’d climb along the Patterson pier and throw stones at the
surfers as they paddled by in the Bay rip, and then duck and hide behind
the boulders. Fun and mischievous stuff for nine-year-old gremmies.
Then surfing sneaked up on me…
I can remember that first wave on a board like it was yesterday. It was
1965, at the Bay of Plenty in Durban, and I was nine years old.
The beach had always been a big part of our family life; my earliest
memories are of sitting on the sand with my glamorous mom and
handsome dad beside me, with a big hamper of food in front of us and an
umbrella overhead.
My dad would sit in his striped canvas deck chair with a cigarette
burning in its rakish holder, and I’d tug impatiently at his arm and say,
“Dad, let’s go for a tiger, let’s go for a tiger.” A 'tiger tim’ is what the
beachboys called a swim, a nod to the Cockney rhyming slang that had
made its way down to the colonies.
My dad would eventually take my brother Paul and me down to the surf,
pointing out the dangers of the stinging bluebottles with their zinging
tails, and the jellyfish. And the powerful, fast-moving rip tides that ran
out beside the piers, stealthily sucking unsuspecting swimmers by the
jetty in a torrent onto the mussel-covered rocks, or out towards the shark
nets beyond the surf line.

Shaun Tomson – full gremmie, naughty smile and a beloved stick. Image supplied ©TOMSON COLLECTION

21
 A collection of true surfing legends on the rocks at the Bay of Plenty: Rick Jordan,
Jeremy Yeats, George Thomopolous, Shaun Tomson, Michael Tomson, Mally
Falconer, Errol Hickman, William Sills and Max Wetteland. ©UNKNOWN

Raising the Tomson grems, the ever-glamorous Mrs Tomson! ©TOMSON COLLECTION

My dad seldom spoke about the danger of sharks, even though From bodysurfing it was a quick progression to using a
he’d been hit hard and savagely nine years before I was born, while Surfoplane, a corrugated rubber pillow about three feet long
waiting for a wave on his wooden surfboard. In the murky water with handles on the front and a big air plug in the back,
beyond the surf line, while we were waiting for a wave with our which we’d hire from the beach concession until we got our
little white legs dangling like succulent offerings to what lurked own. I’d paddle out with my cousin Mike and my brother Paul
beneath, we always felt very vulnerable. beyond the surf zone at North Beach, inside of the shark nets,
The protective shark nets were way out beyond the waves, to the backline.
and the bright-coloured marker buoys gave us a level of We’d lie there, bobbing on air in the warm water of the Indian
comfort; but we knew that over 90 percent of the sharks Ocean, waiting for a big one. And then we’d bomb down the
caught in the nets were trapped on the inside going out. Still, ‘dumper’, lying down and paddling hard until the wave picked
we pushed all the dark stuff to the back of our young minds. us up and hurled us down over the curling edge, while we
So I knew about the dangers early. But they were all brushed screamed with the adrenalin rush of the drop – the thrills were
aside; we’d plunge in and swim out to the backline, where we’d all in the drop.
wait for a suitable wave to catch, hoping to find a 'broadie’, a And then my dad got me my first board, a 4’6 Wetteland Surf
wave that would enable us to track across the wall, parallel to Rider – a mass-produced pop-out with red rails and a clear
the shore. Sometimes we’d just get a 'foamie’, a mass of rolling chop-mat centre. I had never seen anything as beautiful: my
white water, and we’d bodysurf straight in, trying to keep our very own brand-new little surfboard.
bodies as stiff as possible. I waxed up with a candle and made my way out through the
My dad would raise one leg while he raced forward, like a ‘shorey’, the impact zone where the waves break right on the
rudder in the wind. I didn’t know what it did, and I still don’t; but sand. With the world to my back and the horizon ahead, I was
it sure looked good, so I copied that cool style of his. truly on my own.

22
 The mythical Bay of Plenty in all her glory. ©NAUDE

The foam rumbled towards me; I swung my board around, And the younger crew: my brother Paul, Mike Burness,
dug my little arms hard into the water, and paddled. The white Chris ‘Nuto’ Knutsen, the Shaw brothers, Tommy and Peter
water picked me up, shot me forward, and I leapt to my feet Lawson, and the Sagnellis. The big heroes before us were the
and stood up. That feeling of stoke instantly imprinted itself red-hot Kenny Bygate, Allan Thornton, the Richards brothers
on my being: happiness and fear, exhilaration, speed and and Doi Hack.
conquest, all melded together into one rush of sensation. One of the big days in my young life was getting invited to be
And the view! Looking over and above it all, racing along a Junior member of the Bay Surf Club, along with Mike Tomson
on an invisible band of energy, two inches above the water, and our best surf buddy Jem Yeats. We all competed in our
separated by just a little sliver of glass fibre; for a brief first event together, in the Bay shore break – I was riding my
moment, the master of my little universe. Right there, right four-stringered Wetteland 8’8 with a massive red fin. I cracked
then, surfing gripped me hard and fast – and it just never let go. a third place, and I was stoked – there were only three of us,
The beach where I caught that first wave, the Bay of Plenty, but I was proud of my third-place finish!
became my beach. Dante’s Milkbar was the little café where we all used to hang
And I thought it was perfect. out, watching the tubes thunder across the sand bank, while
At low tide on a good swell, grinding right-handers. And at girls in bikinis and high heels strutted by. Hot sugared tea,
high tide, the Bay Bowl, Durban’s only consistent left – a fun chocolate milkshakes, hot cross buns, anchovy toast, Marmite
wall on takeoff, bending into a sucky end bowl; and then a kick toast and Bar Ones – truly, food for the soul.
out into the channel, where the current would rip you back out When I was 12, my dad rescued the Wetteland brand from
to the takeoff. bankruptcy; and he helped tie up a licensing agreement with
Our tight little crew of gremmies, the Bay Boys, eventually Midget Farrelly, who sent out the half templates for two board
became some of the best surfers in the world and ran some designs – one for a double-ender, and the other for a mini-gun
of the top surfing brands: Mike Tomson, Jem Yeats, Bruce he called a speed board. A half template has the front half of
Jackson, Paul Naude, Kevin Todd, Ricky Jordan, Graham Taylor, the board on one side of the template and the tail section on
Gary Etherington. And the hot kneeboarders: Leighton Alcock, the other.
Rob 'Custard’ Custance, Henry Bradley and Gerald ‘Ellie’ Bam.

23
ZAG 47.3 / From Gremmies to Men

Shaun Tomson post-Hawaii layback at the Bay of Plenty. ©FLANAGAN

Max Wetteland had never seen half templates before, and and we lined up to play the two best machines, Knockout and
mixed things up; so he shaped a whole set of boards for us King Arthur, trying for that elusive crack that meant you’d won
hot young gremmies, and we thought they were the greatest a free game.
boards we’d ever ridden. In fact, we were riding boards with a Every now and then, after we’d spent too long in the arcade,
gun nose and a wide double-ender tail – Midget came out a few my dad would saunter in and stand next to the machines and
months later, and was horrified to see what we were riding! watch us. He would never say anything, he wasn’t a “Get the
Looking back on those days, they were some of the best hell out of here!” dad; but just by his presence, we knew it was
times of my life. No stress, no pressure; just fun under that time to go and paddle out again.
Durban sun. We would surf all day, it seemed – onshore or My dad was like the godfather of the Bay of Plenty –
offshore, and bluebottles were the only thing that kept us out. watching all of us with his binoculars, and giving everyone
We all wanted to be the best surfer on the beach, and the fun equal encouragement. His dream was to win Olympic gold
and constant competition made us all better. in the 1948 Olympics – he was one of South Africa’s top
When we came in wearing our Surfline Hawaii Jams or Hang swimmers; but the shark attack ended that dream.
Ten board shorts, it was time for a game of one bounce on the But he lived a life free of bitterness and full of joy, passion,
hot tarmac. When we tired of that it was time to go to Newton’s hope, optimism, and love; which he shared with his children
Arcade, where there were banks of Gottlieb and Bally pinball and so many other young people on the beach at the Bay. His
machines, imported from the USA – 5 cents a game, for 5 silver encouragement, interest and dedication helped all of us Bay
balls. We learned how to rattle those tables without tilting; Boys make the transition from gremmies to men.

24
 Chip off the old block: Shaun and his pops, Ernie. ©TOMSON COLLECTION

As a child, I asked my dad what had Be gracious, resilient and stoic. “When you As a dad, he didn’t expect the best; just that
happened to the shark after the attack. win, win like a gentleman; when you lose, you would do your best.
He said, “It died of blood poisoning.” lose like a man.”

“Your word is your bond.”

Have the humility to accept a loss: “The "When you shake hands, do it firmly, so
judges’ decision is written in stone. No the other person can feel who you are.”
amount of complaining will change it.”

Attend your children’s sports events.

Get in the car and go away somewhere Invite your children’s friends to your parties.
together on every holiday. Get to know them and their parents.
Be kind and supportive of your friends.

Encourage your children’s friends to Kiss your children hello and goodbye, and end
be successful in sport as much as you every phone conversation with the words: We used to say, “East or west, Bay is best.”
encourage your own children. “God bless.” And it was…

26
It’s a new dawn, it’s a new day, it’s a new
surfing life for Khanyisani Mgu. ©PATTERSON
 Ntando Alex Nqwadala hangs five under the berg of Muizenberg ©VAN GYSEN

uizenberg is an energy point and so we always I always used to enjoy seeing Davy Stolk come to the Berg and
congregated here, from way back in the day. I’ve surf it, because he brought that power with him. Muizenberg is
travelled across the globe throughout my surfing career, a wave that’s going to show you how fit you are.
and learnt many things from the many different beaches. But Also, it’s very consistent. There’s always waves here. The
Muizenberg has got that magic! That’s why there’s such great environment is very welcoming; it’s a safe place for parents
depth of surfers coming out of Muizenberg. to drop the kids. It ticks all the boxes. And the level of surfing
There’s something special about this place. It’s an epicentre in the lineup, with all these top surfers around – we just had
for transformation in our sport, and it’s great to see black a session with Mikey February, Craig Johnson, Paul Sampson,
surfers coming through. It’s great to see everyone having fun Ntando Alex, Lele Zozi, Jono Rosslind, Angelica Rosslind… all
in the water. Families surfing together. People of all different top surfers. It’s like a breeding ground for competitive surfing.
ages and races, all coming together and enjoying the ocean. As opposed to looking for good waves all the time,
We have a massive variety of surfers at Muizenberg, and Muizenberg is giving these surfers that philosophy of surfing
some really talented youngsters coming through. There are any wave and making any wave look good. Not necessarily
many surfers who froth to get to the Berg and just enjoy it for going for the best waves in the heat. In Muizenberg you just
what it is. They’re just having fun in the ocean. Muizenberg is have to go and make it work.
the meeting point for many different energies. The top guys I’ve just been travelling around the country, and I missed
and the beginners all come together at Muizenberg. Muizenberg. I missed the vibe. It’s like a surf city every day.
To be a good surfer at Muizenberg you have to be super- The parking lot is full, with at least a hundred people in the
fit, so that’s a big part of the competitive edge that the water. This place is buzzing. So, ja – that’s Muizenberg. You’re
Muizenberg surfers have. It’s also the hub of surf coaching in going to see a lot more of it in the future.
South Africa, so surfers have that coaching mindset.

30
The Muizies spread, as seen from above the backline. ©CHAPMAN

Local legend Bernie Shelly needs no introduction. ©VAN GYSEN

31
 Krans, where all the Komskom groms get their first taste of the tube. ©VAN GYSEN

ot all nurseries are equal. Some have better ‘toys’ than Collier cut their teeth at Kommetjie’s outer reefs, like Sunset
others. Better teachers. Better facilities. And when and the Outer Kom.
one nursery sticks out as better than any other around, The quality and quantity of Kommetjie’s waves are the sole
it naturally attracts people, and fosters a dynamic and reason that so many talented surfers, whether born here or
competitive environment that yields excellent outcomes. transplanted, emerge from these kelpy shores. From the days
So why is Kommetjie such a good nursery for pro surfers? of John ‘Die Oom’ Whitmore up until today, many have chosen
Simply put: because of its great and varied waves. Albeit that to settle and raise their kids in this little village on the edge of
it’s cold, windy and kelpy. the icy Atlantic. And the nursery is as rich…
You don’t have to look that far back to see that Kommetjie Where else can you surf every day of the year if you want?
has produced more than its fair share of world-class pros Stand on the Kom boardwalk alongside the 33-metre-high
and renowned chargers. Names like Brendon Gibbens, Matt steel lighthouse, and what do you see? Unrestricted, open
Bromley, Michael February, Eli Beukes, Simone Robb and ocean, all the way to the Roaring Forties. Few locales in the
Tanika Hoffman come to mind. Not to mention loads of other world offer as much consistency and exposure.
junior and senior surfers over the years who have been paid Obviously, some days are better than others; but for the
as professional surfers. Even our multiple big-wave world majority of the year there are reefs, points and beach breaks
champions Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker, Ian Armstrong and Cass delivering a variety of waves to hone any surfer’s skills –

32
 Cooper Smith ducks under the hood of this dredger. ©WULFF

You’ll need a steady supply of rubber if you grow up surfing Kommetjie. ©VAN GYSEN

culminating in the famous (and infamous) Long Beach Main depending on who you are and how you look at it. On one hand
Peak. And this is where it becomes exponentially more unique you have a mellow inside right and left, perfect for beginners
and interesting. and young grommet rippers; and just beyond the main peak,
As with any human activity, once you put enough talented there’s a perfect wave for advanced surfers and those on
and skilled individuals together in one place, amazing things bigger boards.
will happen. Alone you can only grow and go so far. As the old Throw these all together, and it’s a melting pot of ages,
African Proverb says, “If you want to go fast, go alone. If you abilities, craft, skills and temperaments. And everyone is vying
want to go far, go together.” When together, people push each for that next wave, so the hunger and competitiveness never
other. They push themselves beyond their comfort zones, and sleep. Some get over it and leave; but for those who stick it out
the overall level is notched ever upward. and want it, Kommetjie will refine and mould you into the best
What makes Long Beach all the more unique is that it is in surfer you can ever be.
effect two waves in one. This is both a blessing and a curse,

33
 First light on the hallowed Victoria Bay lineup. ©VAN GYSEN

he reason the Garden Route is a great nursery for against one another. As well as against other athletes we
producing professional surfers comes down to a few would meet and see at the various national surf events.
things. Firstly, accessibility: we have access to a wide And because the Garden Route has such good waves,
variety of quality waves. We have pointbreaks and beachbreaks often we also have visiting surfers passing through. Top guns
all in close proximity to each other. These are easy to get to such as Tom Curren, Kelly Slater, Jordy Smith and many
and super-consistent, which allows you to get plenty of time in others have come to surf our waves. This gives our groms the
the water without compromising on life’s other commitments. opportunity to surf with these world-class surfers and learn
Another thing is that there’s great support from the from them. When you see someone surfing in real life, rather
community. It’s a small surf community, and so everyone is than just on a video, that’s when you really get to see how high
connected and supports each other. When the community their level is and what you need to do to get there.
recognises your talent, they get behind you all the way. Money is always a tricky one. Obviously some surfers have
From a surfing perspective the Eden Surf Riders Federation more than others… but having a tightknit community plays
has really grown and helped develop many surfers over the a huge role in helping surfers get to where they need to be.
years. It’s a great platform for youngsters to get involved in Families and local businesses are often willing to get behind
surfing in a structured environment, and to have access to our local talent and see that they get the support they need to
competitions such as the Grom Champs and other junior and pursue their surfing careers.
open events. This gives our surfers the opportunity to gain At the end of the day it takes a lot of hard work and
exposure in a competitive environment. dedication. Talent is one thing; but you have to work extremely
Back in my day there were three or four of us at a similar hard to make it as a surfer, regardless of where you’re from.
level, and we continually benchmarked our performance

34
 Luc Lepront rebounds off a beachie wall. ©WULFF

Evening light flares, and the regular knot of fishermen on the Vic Bay pier. ©THURTELL

35
Rory Dace on a sunset speed blur at Supers. ©LATEGAN

hat has contributed to the Cape St. Francis and J-Bay The towns of J-Bay and St Francis exist because of the
region becoming such a hotbed of surfing talent? Is it ocean. J-Bay’s main road, Da Gama, runs along the seafront
the face-brick-flanked streets of J-Bay? The potholed from start to finish. The only reason people came here in the
roads? Or the special free-range meat the crew at Nina’s puts first place was the sea. Charity organisations such as Wave
in their spicy lamb curry? Point Surf, Aleph Surf and J-Bay Surf Alliance have connected
Surfing begins and ends with waves. Surfers need surf. And with the ocean culture of the local township communities and
they need a ton of it to become world-class surfers. Ever heard made surfing more accessible. The local boardriders’ clubs
of the 10 000-hour rule, made popular by Malcolm Gladwell? bring the community together for surf comps, beach cleanups
Well, the 10 000-hour rule is a concept that suggests that it and movie nights, further cementing surf culture and helping
takes approximately 10 000 hours of deliberate practice to individuals within the towns form shared patterns of belief,
achieve mastery in a particular skill. By dedicating extensive values and behaviour.
time and effort to the deliberate practice of surfing, surfers Lineups with good surfers create more good surfers. An
can develop the necessary skills, knowledge and experience to outlier sets the bar, and the rest of us strive to make it the
become world class. standard. Surfers like Matt McGillivray, Jordy Smith, Steven
In order for this talent to rise, surfers need waves… and many Sawyer and Joshe Faulkner raise the bar to world-class levels.
of them. Now, imagine what happens when they get world-class Visiting pros who blow in for the WCT do their bit, and the
pointbreak waves. Long, wailing walls. Lots of them! The one rest of the local surfing population attempt to make those
thing J-Bay and St Francis have in abundance is waves. Plenty of. performances the standard.

36
 A seagull’s view of the J-Bay miracle. ©CHAPMAN

In the late 80s and early 90s, multiple-generation surf

families were most prominent in large metropoles like Cape
Town, Durban and even East London. Now, with the advent of
remote working, we’ve seen a rural migration; a shift driven
by factors such as lower living costs, less crime, and in every
surfer’s case, better waves. J-Bay and St Francis now boast
several families of two or even three generations of surfers.
Families in which children, parents and even grandparents surf.
Generational surf families produce surfers who consider
surfing a natural part of their lifestyle. There’s no doubt: when
your parents and grandparents surf, and revolve their loves
and lives around the ocean… generation number three has no
choice but to be talented.
All growed up: Emma Smith skips down to the beach. ©CHAPMAN

37
 Mitch du Preez scours the pocket in PE. ©VEITCH

E, now known as Gqeberha, is probably not top of your list Anyone who’s seen Dylan Stone at eight-foot Supers will scratch
for super-hot surfers; but we’ve had our fair share. their heads when they hear that he learned his chops at a little
World-class surfers such as Gavin Rudolph, Warren close-out peak at King's Beach, where it’s difficult just to get to your
Dean, Quinton Jones, Dylan Stone, Granville West, Matthew feet, let alone do a turn. Dylan and Granville would spend hours
McGillivray, Craig Anderson and many others all spent their duelling in those micro close-outs, making it look surfable to us
formative years in the windy city. ballies until you paddled out and tried.
Although some have moved on, the roots remain. And the Craig Anderson, arguably one of the most stylish surfers on
roots are what feed the tree. Good waves are easy to surf; but earth, got out early, but the grounding was laid and served him well.
what hones technique and hunger is small, shitty surf. Granville is an ex-Springbok captain and one of the most underrated
Kelly Slater was made in crappy reforms in Florida, home surfers in SA, along with Dylan. And their technique is flawless.
to some of the worst surf in the world. The list of world-class How the hell?
talents from the east coast of the United States is a long one. Simple. It’s incredibly difficult to surf small, shitty waves. And
Not that many big-wave chargers, obviously, but well-rounded, who wants to, anyway? Growing up surfing in PE both hones your
technique-based craftsmen and women. technical ability and stokes the hunger for bigger and better waves.

38
Another view of the mythical Fence. ©MCGREGOR

Kai Clarke connects the generations at Millers. ©MCGREGOR

Psychologically, PE also sets you up with a good mentality factor for all of them was learning and building from a good
for surfing; because in the Bay, you never expect good waves. foundation. Having good waves within striking distance up and
You just have to make do with what’s on offer. down the coast is also very helpful.
And once a strong foundation has been set in minuscule Slummies surfers have it all on their doorstep: a start at
dribblers, the rest tends to come quite easily. Gavin Rudolph the Beachie, and then a stroll over to Nahoon Reef when
is a Sunset Beach winner. Warren Dean is a mega Supertubes you’re ready. And their World Tour results speak to that. In
charger and ex-QS phenom, Craig Ando’s resume speaks for comparison, the PE crew have to travel to score good waves;
itself and Matt McGillivray is a clutch WCT competitor and but our roots are strong, and we know how to grind it out.
an absolute animal in waves of consequence. The common

39
 Dan Emslie slips into the blue at home. ©DE VILLIERS

he first thing about East London is that it’s a raw place. It’s a Generally, what happens is surfers from East London get better
raw town that’s divided into several different areas. with age. When they get to around 16 or 18, they start to show
You have Eastern Beach, which is quite a hardcore group their talent and become much stronger surfers.
of guys. Then you have the Nahoon crew, which could be split into Because of the waves we have, once people are out the back
two areas, the lifesaving shack and the corner reef guys. Another at spots such as Nahoon Reef, which is definitely the centre of
pack is the Gonubie crew, which is also a very strong group. surfing in East London, you have to know what you’re doing. This
The last group is the East Coast pack. So East London surfing is means that there aren’t too many kooks around. Almost everyone
made up of a few different crews. When you put all these groups can surf at a decent level. There’s also lots of respect and support
together, it becomes one very strong surf community. out in the lineups in East London.
The waves are powerful. You don’t often see a young under-10 or Another thing we’ve got is exceptionally good schools. Every
under-12 surfer who’s really good in this area, because the waves good surfer is competitive in some school sport, be it hockey,
are so intense. There aren’t many baby waves for kids to learn, so rugby, swimming or water polo. All the surfing kids play multiple
you’re straight into the big stuff. sports, so they’ve got a good competitive nature.

40
 East London’s surfing epicentre, Nahoon Reef, waving hello. ©WULFF

Zoë Steyn splashing in the shorey. ©DE VILLIERS Gemma Hanafey cranks one off the top at Nahoon ©DE VILLIERS

Personally I grew up under Neville Wilkins and Gary

Gravett, who have been hugely influential in the East
London surfing community. They’ve put a lot back into our
surfing. And they’ve managed to raise a lot of money for our
Border Surfing Federation, which plays a major part in the
surfers we produce. Surfing is not just for the rich; anyone
can make it, as long as you’ve got a board. And we make
sure to help out those who can’t afford it.
A combination of this strong surfing community, lots of
respect and powerful waves is what has led to East London’s
continued surfing success.

41
Surf City view from Dairy across the Bay to Moses Mabhida Stadium. ©ROM

s a youngster, I grew up at Ansteys on the Bluff. When I and that contributed to the level of surfing constantly being
was 12 my parents made the decision to move to town. We pushed higher and higher.
got a spot right on the beachfront in front of New Pier – New Pier is extremely consistent. It almost never gets flat.
the perfect place for a young kid to get into surfing. At most other breaks in the world you’ll have days that are
It’s so accessible, and easy to surf. You could surf two hours totally flat, or just unsurfable. But there’s always a wave at
before school and three hours afterwards. Within a kilometre of New Pier, regardless of the time of year. Early in the year we
New Pier you have a variety of waves to choose from, depending have the cyclone season, which produces big reeling barrels;
on your ability, until you eventually work your way up to New and then it goes into winter, when we see perfect offshore
Pier, which is the most high-performance wave of the lot. performance waves. And after that we get those punchy bowls
Growing up, all of us lived on the beachfront, and we’d just in the summer. The New Pier has so many different moods
spend hours surfing together and pushing each other. Not only that it allows a surfer to become well-rounded and experience
my generation but the generations before and after me all many different conditions at one break. This prepares surfers
had that same competitive camaraderie between each other, well for the world stage.

42
Dreamy subtropical scenes in Durban. ©PATTERSON

Ntokozo Surprise Maphumulo bangs one off the top at New Pier. ©ROM

If you look back in time, you’re able to see different periods There’s not many cities in the world that have a world-class
when surfers got to the top. At each of those times there were surf break on their doorstep. This creates an awareness of
at least 10 other guys really pushing the limits; and that helped surfing and gets more people involved in the sport. We’ve seen
to propel the likes of myself, Travis Logie, Jordy Smith and the impact of that in Durban, and it’s led to more exposure,
others to the top of world surfing. which ultimately helps produce top surfers.
Right now it feels like we’re coming into a new generation The Durban weather also plays a big role. We’ve got warm
of surfers from Durban who are striving for the big leagues. land and sea temperatures all year round, which makes it much
There’s a hot little crew that are surfing every day, before more attractive and allows much longer surf sessions. Whereas
and after school, at the New Pier. The only difference is that in other parts of the country, the cold weather and icy water are
now a lot of them discover surfing through Surfers Not Street further obstacles that surfers have to overcome.
Children’s Point Surf Club. A combination of all these things has led to Durban being one
the world’s finest zones for producing top-class surfers.

43
 Managing the expectations of parents, teachers and
peers – while still trying to have a jol, score good
waves and get featured in Zag’s Big Grom Roll Call.
This is tough. Because you gotta have Zigzag-quality
A-grade surf photos to be included…
Which means this is NOT an exhaustive list of SA’s
up-and-coming surfing talent. But it’s enough to
get a snapshot of the next generation of Saffa surfers
coming through… and the kids are alright!
AGE 16
LOCAL BREAK
KZN, South Africa and Bali, Indonesia

“I have quite a few surfing goals,

but I prefer to do than say. I want
to be successful and get big pits
and surf the best waves I can find.”

©FRIEDEN
 ©POTGIETER

AGE 17 “Growing up, I hated the beach. I couldn’t even set

LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban foot on the sand. But my dad got me an Andy Irons
film, and I watched that and just got hooked. I got
hold of my dad, and he took me surfing.”

46
©HOFMEYR

AGE 19
LOCAL BREAK Llandudno,
Cape Town

“It’s highly addictive, definitely.

I think the feeling you get
when you do something sick is
incomparable. Doesn’t really
matter how good or bad you
are, the feeling is the same for
everyone, which is pretty cool.”

AGE 14
LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban

“Surfing frees my spirit, and gives

me a sense of freedom. My favourite
surfer is Bianca Buitendag.”

©NDUMDUM
 ©DE VILLIERS
©VAN GYSEN

AGE 8
LOCAL BREAK Inner Kom, Peewee’s Reef

“I don't want to be super-professional.

I just want to be original. I want to surf
for the rest of my life, and just catch
good waves and have fun.”

48
AGE 19
LOCAL BREAK Nahoon Reef

“SA has so many talented surfers. But I would

say my favourite is Sophie Bell, because she's
really been pushing the limits – especially
when it comes to tube riding.”
©DE VILLIERS

AGE 12
LOCAL BREAK Nahoon Beach

“I love the ocean. And when

lockdown happened, all my
other sport stopped, and my
love for surfing started. My
goal is to keep improving.
I just love being out there,
having fun.”

AGE 13
LOCAL BREAK Surfers, Ballito

“My favourite thing is

getting barrelled.”

©LIEBENBERG
 AGE 18 “I love the feeling of being free in the water,
LOCAL BREAK and being able to express myself through
I don't really have a ‘local’. surfing. It also allows you to travel, and see
I surf all over Cape Town. and surf new places.”

©PROOST

AGE 10
LOCAL BREAK Surfers, Ballito

“When I’m older I want to

be on the CT and win more
surfing events and get better.
I’m going to do that by
working hard and staying fit
and surfing a lot.”

©LIEBENBERG
 ©SPECKER

AGE 19
LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban

“At the moment my goal is

just to have fun. But long
term, I want to qualify. While
still having fun, of course!”

AGE 19
LOCAL BREAK Used to be New Pier, but
I've just moved to Cape Town.

“My favourite thing about surfing is

just sharing amazing moments with
your friends. Nothing better than
firing waves, and just a couple of
mates out. I also love contests, and
I love winning! I hate losing, but I
love learning from it. Everything
about surfing is what I love about
surfing. My goal for surfing is to ©ISA
enjoy it for the rest of my life!”

52
©MITCHELL

AGE 16
LOCAL BREAK Scottburgh Point, KZN.

“I was involved in Nippers at a young age, where I watched

some of the older guys surfing. So I decided to give it a try.
I've been hooked ever since.”

53
 ©IMAGE SUPPLIED

AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK Seal Point

“My grandpa has shaped boards for a

very long time. He put me on the soft top
as soon as I could put arm bands on.”

54
 ©SPECKER

AGE 18
LOCAL BREAK Glen Beach, Cape Town.

“My surfing goal is just to always keep surfing fun.”

©VENTER

AGE 14
LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban

“I always feel so happy when I'm in the

ocean. My dad got me into surfing at
a young age, because we spend almost
every weekend at the beach.”

AGE 16
LOCAL BREAK Croyde Beach

“I grew up around the kids from

Surfers Not Street Children, and
they inspired me to surf.”

©IMAGECABIN

56
 ©THURTELL

AGE 18
LOCAL BREAK Llandudno, Cape Town

“My surfing goal is to make it onto

the world tour. My favourite surf
film is Eli Beukes’ ‘Deep West’.”

57
 ©CHAPMAN

AGE 17
LOCAL BREAK Long Beach, Kommetjie

“My goal is hopefully to get

back onto the Challenger Series
once I matriculate, and travel
around the world surfing all
the good surf breaks.”

AGE 13
LOCAL BREAK Seal Point

“If I could surf like anyone,

it would be Ethan Ewing.
His flow is the best I’ve
ever seen.”

©IMAGE SUPPLIED

58
 AGE 18 ©VAN GYSEN

LOCAL BREAK Queensberry Bay, East London

“My brothers got me into surfing. I got tired of watching

them from the beach, and decided to give it a try myself.”

©WULFF

AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK
Car Parks,
Scarborough,
Cape Town

“My favourite thing

about surfing is getting
barrelled or landing
something new.”

59
AGE 19
LOCAL BREAK Nahoon Corner

“I want to qualify for the CT. I’m currently

on the CS this year, and hope to be on the
big stage within the next couple of years.”

©DE VILLIERS
©PATTERSON

AGE 14
LOCAL BREAK New Pier

“I want to be a pro
surfer when I’m big.
Surfing makes me feel
good and happy. I am
proud to be a surfer."

©PATTERSON

AGE 13
LOCAL BREAK Ballito

“I just want to do the biggest airs!”

61
©VAN GYSEN

AGE 16
LOCAL BREAK The Kom

“I just want to send it more!”

62
 AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK Coffee Bay Main Break

“My dad surfs, so he tried to get me to start surfing,

when I was four; but I didn't really like it. Then when I
was around five I tried it again, and fell in love.”

©MALHERBE

63
AGE 13
LOCAL BREAK Willards Beach, Ballito

“Like my brother, I played tennis, and all the courts

were closed during lockdown. So we had our first
surf lesson with Ballito Surf School, and I haven't
stopped surfing since!”

AGE 11
LOCAL BREAK Willards Beach, Ballito

“I want to win World Titles on the CT!”

©ZEDDE

64
 AGE 16
LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban

“My favourite thing about surfing is just feeling

loose and relaxed. I love surfing with my friends.”

©PATTERSON

AGE 14
LOCAL BREAK Llandudno/Glen Beach

“What got me into surfing?

Family trips up to Elands Bay.
My dad would swim out with
me, and push me onto waves.”

©WULFF

65
 AGE 20
LOCAL BREAK Long Beach,
Kommetjie

“My favourite South African

surfer? That’s easy – my
brother, Ford van Jaarsveldt.”

©PHITIDES

©PASCOE

AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK Tube Wave, Melkbosstrand

“I’m currently travelling the country with my family,

stopping along at some of the best surf spots in South Africa.”

66
 AGE 20
LOCAL BREAK Point, Jeffreys Bay

"My dad was the whole reason I ever started

surfing. He had me on a board before I could
walk, and watching Bethany Hamilton as a
grom really got me amped.

The ocean has always been my safe space."

©CHAPMAN
67
 ©MILLINGTON

AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK Telescopes, Indo

“My whole family surfs. My brother,

dad and mom. And they all rip equally.
I only surf competitively when the
prize is more than a million dollars!”
AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban

“As scary as it is, I would love

to surf in Tahiti one day.”

©PATTERSON

©LIEBENBERG

AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK Bog, Ballito

“When I was three, my dad pushed

me on a wave called Granny’s Pool.
And ever since then, I’ve been
in love with surfing.”

69
©MITCHELL

AGE 14
LOCAL BREAK Scottburgh Main Break

“My brother got me into surfing. He always convinces

me on anything he does. Now I want to become a
professional surfer on the CT, and travel the world.”

70
 AGE 15
LOCAL BREAK Long Beach Cape Town

“I used to bodyboard with my friends,

since we live right next to the ocean. And
then I just naturally got into surfing.”

AGE 10
LOCAL BREAK Kommetjie

“My parents started pushing me into waves

before I could even swim. I’ve seen clips of
myself still in armbands - sending it!”

©VAN GYSEN

71
©WULFF

AGE 17
LOCAL BREAK New Pier, Durban

“I love surfing new spots and

making friends in the lineup –
also, the feeling of taking off on
a different wave every time.”

72
AGE 13
LOCAL BREAK Glen Beach and Elands Bay

“I want to win a world title and

ISA World Juniors.”

©WULFF

73
 AGE 17
LOCAL BREAK Muizenberg

“What do I want to achieve?

I want to make a life in
surfing. I want to make
©WULFF
my mom proud. So I
keep pushing!”

©PIETERS

AGE 16
LOCAL BREAK Umzumbe, KZN

“I don’t have other hobbies. I eat,

sleep and dream about surfing.”

74
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ZAG 47.3 / Grom Abuse
 Grom Abuse / ZAG 47.3

Put simply, ‘grom abuse’ describes the hazing and mistreatment Frank Solomon has wholesome memories, and looks back at
that younger surfers (predominantly males) received from older his grom years as hugely positive. He believes getting bullied
surfers (also predominantly males) in and out of the water – a by the ballies on the beach was part of finding his place in the
term that is phonetically too close to child or domestic abuse to Llandudno lineup.
stand unchecked these days. It happened just about everywhere “That was the dream,” says Frank. “To be able to sit up on The
with a surf scene, and it reached its pinnacle during contest Patch with the locals. I felt that if I could sit up there with them,
initiation ceremonies and on surf trips. I’d have a better chance of getting waves in the corner.”
It was often worse in places with better waves, bigger locals, But not without paying your dues.
and less parental supervision. All but gone today, what’s left in “We got abused daily. All in good fun though, and we loved
its wake are questions and wild anecdotes. Many of those who it. It was never like, um, I don't feel like it was… I mean, maybe
survived it consider it the thing that made them the men they today… actually, I don't think you could get away with it today.
are today. Those who didn’t are glad it’s no longer accepted (and I think we were the last generation that regularly had older guys
that’s an understatement). take our food, throw rocks at us and do things like that.”

77
ZAG 47.3 / Grom Abuse

According to Frank, it was all about respect; and a grom religion. It's a great thing if it makes younger guys feel part of
had to earn it. You had to be able to take a beating and endure the team. It just mustn't be used to try break them.”
whatever was dished out. Like being buried on the beach. It gets problematic when light teasing and jocular mocking
“One summer day, the beach was full of umbrellas, The Patch become something much more insidious. And it’s a slippery
was packed, and the guys grabbed me, dug the biggest hole, slope that can often lead to abuse. Especially when this bullying
buried me in it, put rocks around my head, put seaweed over my is done to establish dominance by a group who – by the nature
head; and some of them even pissed on me. There were all these of their age, size and resources – demand it anyway. The
Vaalies and German tourists watching who couldn’t believe consequences are low self-esteem and anxiety; it could even
what was happening.” result in a decreased desire to continue surfing.
So after this, was Frank immediately welcomed up onto “I can remember a time when I was too scared to go to
The Patch? Not quite. the beach, because the ous would be there,” says Damien
“There’s no planned sequence of events to becoming a local. Fahrenfort, one of Cape Town’s most decorated national
You just put in your time, get bullied a bit, and after a while champs and pros of the early oughts. “I would walk around
you're one of the boys. It’s just a part of growing up at the beach. at Long Beach and paddle out at Krans from the other side,
I think that's maybe lacking a bit today.” because the ous would strip me or put me in the trash can or
Surfing’s not like other sports; there's no formal initiation, put sand in my wetsuit.”
like when you make the Springboks and have to do… whatever It’s wild speculation of course, but in my experience grom
it is those guys do. Well, after the media shitstorm that abuse should be a case-by-case thing, where those who are
surrounded coach Rudolf Straeuli’s hugely unsuccessful 2003 more robust tend to ask for it by mouthing off all the time. That
team initiation, we now know what those guys do. Or at least shy kid staring at his flip-flops and biting his nails probably
what that particular squad did. doesn’t need anyone pulling his pants down in front of a
In his book The Right Place at the Wrong Time, Corné Krige crowded beach.
describes the degrading experience of Kamp Staaldraad; and I dunno; I’m not a psychiatrist. But Ryan Botha is, so let’s ask him.
Captain Courageous is worth including here, because since Formerly known as Cabbage, Ryan was flicked with towels,
retiring from rugby he’s started surfing. made to run around in his underpants on busy main roads, and
“Over time, my thinking has changed about initiation,” says once had to drink a hot mix of tinned pilchards, Tabasco sauce
Corné. “I think initiation is great. It sets hierarchy, and there’s and raw eggs, using a tampon as a straw. Growing up in Gonubie,
always hierarchy in life. When you start at high school, you're Ryan was also forced to participate in the infamous Nollie
nothing. But in matric you’re on top of the world. Same in Parade, ET’s regular rounding up of groms who he’d then tie
university; and even when you start at work, you work your way to the boardwalk, roll down the dunes in their board bags, and
up. That's how life works.” force to bark at girls on the beach or sell rocks to Vaalies.
Corné says that if initiation makes people feel welcome and Despite this, today Ryan’s a clinical neuropsychologist with
a part of the team, it’s a good thing. However, it should always expertise in the study of criminal psychopaths, well equipped
be about building up, never breaking down. “I think revisiting to share some of the sizeable body of literature on the negative
these traditions is always good; and looking at them from effects of hazing.
the perspective of someone from a different culture, race or

78
 Grom Abuse / ZAG 47.3

“Those frat boys seem to have a special touch of So getting initiated, as part of a club or provincial team
schadenfreude,” Ryan tells us from his new home in New induction, was both a source of abject terror and a badge of
Zealand. “One study (Consequences of Hazing, 2014) has honour. Scary as it was, it felt good to go home with war stories
shown that 71% of those who are hazed suffer from about getting fish guts smeared into your hair, and being made
negative consequences. to eat wet dog food on Marie biscuits drizzled with condensed
“In the interest of a balanced discussion, proponents argue milk. You knew it was coming, and that it was going to be
that initiation practices are an effective means of building painful, embarrassing and gross.
unity and social cohesion. [But] Lafferty et al (2015) found Initiation rituals can push individuals out of their comfort
no significant correlation between hazing and cohesion, zones and create a sense of belonging and connection to a
suggesting the notion that initiations enhance cohesion in group, as well as fostering a sense of unity and support. So
sport is not empirically supported. if it takes a silly haircut to preserve cultural heritage and
“In a seminal piece of social science research, Phillip promote a sense of continuity across generations, then pass
Zimbardo (The Stanford Prison Experiment, The Lucifer Effect) me the clippers. However, if there’s physical, emotional or
details the more pernicious aspects of these group cohesion psychological distress, with extreme or abusive practices being
practices. Zimbardo shows how situational forces and group passed off as tradition – then it’s a hard ‘no!’ from me.
dynamics can work in concert to make monsters out of decent As a parent, I’m glad that nobody has the type of authority
men and women. The behaviour of military men and women in over my children that the locals at the beaches I surfed at held
Abu Ghraib is a case in point.” over me. I look back at the ‘grom abuse’ I experienced now and
If you battled with some of the language in the above, laugh, but at the time, those experiences were definitely the
fret not; I asked Cabbage for a tl;dr summary. He said that hardest stuff I’d ever encountered in my privileged life.
initiation normalises low-level violence and degradation, which It’s easy to romanticise the past, especially for those who've
perpetuates the cycle of abuse. So there you go. moved away from the beaches where they grew up. But the
At the time of the Gonubie Nollie Parades, two rivers down truth is that the concept of grom abuse just doesn’t fit into the
the coast Royden Bryson was being flung into Nahoon’s world today. A rise in self-awareness, the gradual evolution of
notorious Turdy, an oft-polluted estuary known as a place of culture and the omnipresence of cameras and social media
baptism, where many an unlucky grom was both brought into platforms have changed the game.
the surfing fold and given an opportunity to develop antibodies. And when initiation is mainly about reinforcing conformity
And that was just for your average surf rat; the elite who made to a group and suppressing individuality, stifling personal
the Border team suffered a special sort of sadism. autonomy and critical thinking… does that not go against
“It was so intense that when photos were developed, they everything that surfing stands for?
were turned in to the police,” says Royden. “After that, initiation So listen up, groms. I won’t steal your lunch. I can’t be
was banned.” arsed to dig a hole. And there’s a name for older men who are
It may be some sort of Stockholm Syndrome that causes obsessed with children’s nudity that I’d rather not have linked to
those initiated to swear secrecy; but having heard whisperings me, thankyouverymuch! However, if you keep paddling onto my
of some creatively named activities – such as putty-rubs, bum- inside and sniggering at my bald spot, I’m going to hit you where
funnels, and tug-a-boerie – it’s clear why victims wouldn’t want it hurts – I’ll unfollow you on social media.
to give detailed accounts of these ‘character-building’ activities.

79
ZAG 47.3 / Grom Abuse

While the story of grom abuse stretches far back in time, the era turned-WSL-commentator who now resides in Australia.
of the 80s and 90s provides an interesting point of departure. “We couldn't just paddle out at Nahoon Reef without first
This was the time that surfing as a subculture and surfing as graduating from the Corner. There was a real pecking order, and
a sport began to merge, becoming something resembling the a reverence and respect for the older surfers in
thing we know and love today. the community.”
Groms got tied to poles, zipped up in their board bags and Mike Frew, a former SA champ and Springbok who spent the
rolled down hills, bog-washed in public toilets, stripped, better part of the 90s on the national competitive circuit, also
shaved (eyebrows, heads, privates) and more. This type of thing connects his experience of grom abuse to hierarchy. “If you got
was common. in the way, you got screamed at, or a bit of a slap on the head. As
But it’s important to note that this was not exclusively a result, we developed quite a lot of respect for the older guys.
because surfers were gnarly. The whole world that surfing fit I don't know if it was really earned respect or just because we
into back then was more physical, less reflective, and there was feared them, because they were pretty hardcore about it.”
no such thing as social media. But it’s impossible to peel this story away completely from
And nothing happens in a vacuum. This was at the height of South Africa’s larger political framework. Many SA beaches
apartheid; most institutions were ruled and regulated through were segregated until as late as 1989, which created its own
violence. The state regularly hanged people! There was corporal additional layer of conflict when it came to both grom abuse
punishment in schools: teachers lashed their students with and localism – because any power dynamic that involved abuse
canes and homemade bats for pedestrian offences. Parents hit was inextricably tied to a larger system of abuse. In surfing,
their children, often in public. Military service was compulsory, all of the prejudice and stereotyping that was bred into white
and built into the social fabric of white South Africa. socialisation spilled over at times.
This military-esque modus operandi bled into just about every “The apartheid years, when people of colour began to assert
sport and subculture. Lifesaving, rowing, cricket, water polo, themselves in the water, became more a territorial battle than
hockey – all had their own versions of grom abuse, in which kids anything else,” explains Shafiq Morton. “The easy way out was
were hazed in ways that seem criminal by today’s standards. for certain whites to see black surfers as kooks, and to hustle
The ability to self-govern is one of the most common things them, even at their home breaks. ‘Grom abuse’ became naked
people miss about the application of grom abuse. “The world racism, and some white people got upset and scared when there
becomes dysfunctional when there is no hierarchy,” opines was justifiable push-back.”
Shafiq Morton, award-winning photographer, broadcast But apartheid, racism and our country's violent history aside,
journalist, author and surfer, who has seen and documented the most will agree that the goal of initiation was never to push
shifts in our sport for decades. kids away completely, but to foster grit and respect in a way
“Grom abuse is a regulatory device, if understood correctly. that seemed natural at the time (however harsh this looks in
Unfortunately, rampant commercialisation airbrushes this out retrospect). Perhaps it’s a sign of progress that as a culture (and
of surfing. You gotta pay your dues. I did. And I get pissed off perhaps even as a species), we seem to have grown out of this
when okes jump the line, and there’s no respect in the water.” behaviour, at least physically. But many of today’s groms may
“Grom abuse definitely shaped community for me,” says Brad argue that the negative tenets of old-school grom abuse are
Bricknell, a former Springbok and qualifying series campaigner- alive and thriving – on social media.

80
ZAG 47.3 / Digital Aloha
 Digital Aloha / ZAG 47.3

Aloha, my friends.

Eddie Aikau here, reflecting on the profound influence of and the community with integrity. Social media has given
social media on professional surfing and our beloved surf surfers a platform and a voice. With this privilege comes the
community. We're navigating changing tides, and I wanted to kuleana to use social media responsibly and authentically.
share with you my thoughts. Surfers have the responsibility to promote positive values,
Nowadays, social media has become a powerful tool that respect for the ocean, and stewardship of our surfing spots.
connects surfers, friends, and the industry across the world. It By sharing our stories, engaging in meaningful conversations,
has given rise to a new wave of talent, allowing young surfers and raising awareness about environmental issues, we can
to showcase their skills and share their stoke with a global fulfill our kuleana and contribute to a more sustainable and
audience. Back in the day, we relied on competitions, print inclusive surfing community. So don't be swayed by the allure
magazines and word-of-mouth to gain recognition, but now, the of superficial fame or popularity. Stay true to your values and
digital platforms offer an instant connection to fans, sponsors, let your actions speak louder than your follower count. Use
and the wider surfing community. It has allowed you to share social media as a tool for connection and inspiration, not for
your love for the ocean and the art of riding waves with people self-promotion or ego-driven pursuits.
from diverse backgrounds. But with this incredible power comes I also urge the young surfers to remember the importance
a set of challenges and responsibilities that you must navigate of kāko'o, supporting one another on and off the waves. Social
with care. media can be a powerful platform for lifting each other up,
The constant presence of technology and the pressure to celebrating achievements, and fostering a sense of community.
perform and gain followers can sometimes take away from Surf brands can use social media to promote surfers and their
the purity of our sport. It's important for the next generation achievements, helping them gain recognition. Likewise, surfers
to remember the true essence of surfing, to connect with the can use their online presence to support local businesses,
ocean and the mana it holds, rather than getting caught up in promote community events, and connect around important
the pursuit of likes and validation. issues. So share your fellow surfers' accomplishments, give
I encourage the young surfers of today to use social media them props for their hard work, and spread the aloha spirit.
as a platform for positive change. Let your voice be heard, Social media has undeniably impacted the surfing
share your love for the ocean, and promote environmental community. With concepts like ho'okipa (hospitality), kuleana
stewardship. It's through your passion and dedication that (responsibility), and kāko'o (support) in mind, we can navigate
you can inspire others to respect and protect our precious the challenges and harness the opportunities that these new
surf spots. Social media provides an avenue for you to be technologies offer. Stay true to the core values of surfing,
ambassadors of aloha, spreading the values of respect, unity, embrace the power of technology to spread aloha, and
and aloha for the ocean and one another. remember that the true magic happens out on the waves,
Remember, as you navigate the digital waters, to be mindful where our spirits are free and connected to the ocean.
of your kuleana, your duty and privilege to represent surfing
Mahalo nui loa,

Eddie Aikau*

*Not actually Eddie Aikau. This article was generated with a series of prompts on Chat GPT,
using the internet and a transcribed 1978 radio interview with Eddie Aikau to accurately emulate his voice.
83
Jake Kolnik on his way to pay Poseidon a
visit, deep down in the Dungeons. ©FOX
 Live for Today / ZAG 47.3

Concussions and serious brain injuries suffered

while surfing heavy waves tend to be more
prevalent and detrimental in young people.
So should groms be barred from riding the big stuff?

DOUGAL PATERSON INVESTIGATES.

ZAG 47.3 / Live for Today

is the jet fuel of big-wave riders.

There’s this ‘understanding’: that
those willing to risk it all will be
rewarded with the biggest waves.

At the time of her accident, Mercedes Maidana was one of the

best big-wave surfers in the world.
Then, in 2014, while competing in a contest held in 30ft
waves off the coast of Oregon, she was hit in the face by her
10ft surfboard. “It hit me underwater like a table, right into
my forehead. I felt a quick in-and-out, black stars, pulled my
inflatable vest…”
Bleeding profusely, Maidana was rescued and taken back to
shore, where a doctor glued the cut above her eye and told her
she had “a mild concussion, nothing to worry about”.
Back in Hawaii, despite multiple symptoms, she continued to
ride big waves for the next two seasons. As the months passed,
her life was engulfed by a fog of fatigue, mental confusion,
paranoia, anxiety and depression.
“My husband was asking for me to stop surfing in big waves, Duncan was a pioneer at the behemoth Irish slab
because I kept having serious accidents. He was scared for my Mullaghmore. “In bombardments, they tell soldiers to lie on
life. But I never listened to him. Eventually, I lost everything," the ground, cover your ears and open your mouth wide, to not
she says. “I lost my career. I lost my health. I got divorced. I lost blow out your ear canals. Deafness (temporary and permanent)
all my money. I even lost my dog! is a side effect of bomb blasts.
“After two years, I thought I was going to live my whole life “I took one fall at monstrous Mullaghmore where I came up
feeling horribly concussed. I thought, ‘Okay, I just have to wait seeing stars. My senses were thick and de-sensitised, my vision
it out until I die. And I hope that happens quickly.’” was foggy, and I couldn't hear shit. It took great concentration
Duncan Scott is an ex-pro surfer, and a veteran of many to get onto the sled. I couldn't hear the ski driver shouting at
Hawaiian winters. He told me: “Big-wave surfing attracts me from a metre away.”
people with addictive, risk-taking personalities. Hawaii is full Bravado is the jet fuel of big-wave riders. There’s this
of weird old dudes living in the bushes. Many are lifelong big- ‘understanding’: that those willing to risk it all will be
wave guys who’ve had tons of wipeouts. rewarded with the biggest waves. And the person who rides
“Is it because they’re too far gone on drugs? Perhaps. the biggest waves gets the most affirmation. Duncan calls
But maybe, it’s because some of them have had too many it “aggressive risk-taking behaviour associated with seeking
brain traumas.” peer acceptance”.

86
 Fabian Campagnolo scoops a meaty one
at Nazare on a paddle day. ©SANCHEZ

I asked psychologist Oli Fuchs what he thought. “Injury called the signature wound of the Afghanistan and Iraq wars.
bursts the bubble we have about ourselves. It can force an In earlier wars it was just called ‘shell shock’. Symptoms
existential confrontation with our limits: ‘My body’, ‘my life’, include amnesia, mental and emotional disturbances,
‘my big-wave career’, etc. headaches, difficulty concentrating, messed up sleep
“Anyone who claims that it’s ‘all or nothing’ has no patterns, impaired speech and motor functioning, anxiety,
experiential reference for what ‘nothing’ actually means. The suicidal thoughts and blurry vision.
injury experience forces on us the question: ‘Who am I, if I can’t According to ex-NSRI station commander Ian Klopper,
be a big-wave surfer?’ Anybody who hurts themselves badly explosive detonations produce transient shock waves
while going for the ‘all’, and then immediately fixates their life characterised by pressure transients that travel at speeds
purpose on getting back there again, isn’t actually okay with in excess of the speed of sound. It was Klopper who drew my
‘nothing’; because it’s a confrontation with meaninglessness. attention to the link between bTBIs sustained in bomb blasts,
“Ironically, we can develop an unhealthy dependency on this and the repeated concussions that my young wards were
glorious thing called big-wave riding… which doesn’t actually getting. All three guys I mentored as teenagers now suffer
have any meaning at all.” from bTBI symptoms. Klopper was insistent that it was the
Bomb blasts result in neurological consequences for the pressure transients inherent to big waves that was fuddling
brain. ‘Blast-induced traumatic brain injury’, or bTBI, has been their brains.

87
 Groms psyching themselves up to paddle
out at a macking Banzai Pipeline. ©CRAIG

“If you wipe out on a 10-metre wave with

a falling lip that is 20 metres wide,
you'll feel the equivalent of

worth of force impressed on your body.”

As a kid, Odd Persson first had his short-term memory you'll feel the equivalent of 410 000 kilograms’ worth of force
permanently damaged playing ice hockey, then lost his impressed on your body. That’s the weight equivalent of 488
ability to read and speak English for a few months in a second Volkswagen Beetles. 1967 model.”
accident shortly thereafter. A third accident while surfing big Albee Layer is a horrifying example of the ‘all or nothing’
waves with me in 2018 sent him down the rabbit hole once approach taken at Jaws. A late takeoff ended with him taking
again, with headaches, concentration struggles, memory all 488 Beetles on the head. Over time, it became obvious he’d
problems and mood disturbances. But despite ongoing suffered a life-altering concussion.
symptoms, he was soon back in the big waves. Three years on and a telephone directory’s-worth of
In 2020 I contracted the help of biokineticist Phil Nel to treatments later, Albee’s performance at Jaws earlier this
intervene in Odd’s headlong charge towards irrevocable brain year had people claiming he was back in the saddle. He
damage. He performed a concussion test on Odd; armed with took to Instagram with this (paraphrased) message. “A lot
the dismal results, Phil told him simply, “Another big hit in your of people have told me how stoked they are to see me back
present condition could kill you.” to normal since the concussion in 2019. I really appreciate
Meanwhile my second ward, Fabian Campagnolo, was that; but the truth is, I’m not and never will be whatever I
sustaining multiple concussions while hunting waves at considered normal before.
Dungeons, Nazare, Mavericks and Jaws. “I did good at Jaws this last run not because ‘I’m back’, but
Phil has worked out an equation that brings home the both because I was confident with my preparation, and also
seriousness of surfing concussion incidents: “If you wipe out ’cause I had that ‘Fuck it, nothing to lose’ attitude. Which is
on a 10-metre wave with a falling lip that’s 20 metres wide, not sustainable.”

Young Zion Wright from Scarborough catches

a good flogging at Sunset. ©VAN GYSEN
89
ZAG 47.3 / Live for Today

Kom-grom Sam Warren navigates the

drop on a Sunset dredger. ©VAN GYSEN

Owen Wright, hand on Gath post-head injury on the World Tour. ©CESTARI

Owen Wright’s concussion injury is the most famous example of bTBI in

the surfing world. Smashed head-first into the reef at Pipe, he went from
World Title contender to belly surfing on a soft top in knee-high waves.
Ultimately, Wright recovered enough physically to compete for a few more
years, but has now retired at just 33.
The reason he gave for his decision was this: “Given my recent history with
head injuries and concussions, competing at some of the heaviest waves on
the planet is no longer in the best interests of my long-term health.” As Odd
recently told me, “Concussions really scare me. It feels like broken bones
heal… but brains don’t.”
My third ward, Sam Warren, only finished matric last year. “Bru, I had
another big fall the other day at Sunset. When I got home that night, I was
struggling to string my sentences together.”
Writing this story has been a major downer for me; I now feel partly
responsible for contributing to my friends’ concussion, by taking them out
as teenagers. Because I’ve come to the conclusion recently that young
brains are more susceptible to concussion-related injuries in big waves.
Medical science tells us that brains only stop growing in our mid- to late
20s. So this might be just the conjecture of a jaded, middle-aged big-wave
guy, but I figure young brains are more vulnerable, by virtue of the fact that
they’re still growing.
I only started surfing big waves in my late 20s, which is perhaps why it
hasn’t been an issue for me. But as a teenager, I once ran the 21.1km distance
of a half marathon – and peed blood afterwards.
Young bodies are different. In the same way that I wouldn’t let my teenage
daughters run marathons until they’ve finished growing, I’ve decided that I
won’t take them into big waves until their brains have finished growing.
And you don’t even have to surf big waves to get concussed. Heck,
someone I know had a life-altering concussion in 1-foot waves.
“Concussion in the developing brain has become a very serious topic in
many other sports,” explains Phil Nel. “Even though the initial symptoms
might disappear, there can be long-term effects, years down the line.
“Longevity and self-preservation are key. Recovery can take a few years;
you have to rest in order for brain tissue to heal. You need to make lifestyle
modifications, and you need to address your mental health.”

90
 “Competing at some of the

on the planet is no longer in the best

interests of my long-term health.”
– Owen Wright
 The always-helmeted-in-heavy-surf Kai Hall
scratches over a big one at Backdoor. ©SCHULTZ

Surf with your brains,

And this is the bright light at the end of this tunnel. sea, in the company of men I’ve known for more than 20 years.
Concussions do heal. Mercedes Maidana doesn’t surf big waves Two of those men are Matt Bromley and James Lowe. Both are
anymore; she’s remarried, has a new career, and her brain is veterans of many heavy Jaws sessions.
working properly again. Had she stopped surfing immediately Because of his analytical approach, James is exceptionally
after her accident, she would have healed even sooner. skilled at avoiding beatings. I often tell new guys to surf like
Fabian surfs in a rugby scrum cap, and calls it a day at the first James Lowe. Surf with your brains, not with your balls! And
signs of dizziness; because he’s learned where his limits are. Matt too only started surfing big waves regularly in his mid-20s,
Rest, treatments, supplements and nutrition drastically aid and possibly for that reason has avoided concussion thus far.
recovery. Simple things like neck-strengthening exercises can To end this story, I’ve chosen the words of South Africa’s
help to prevent whiplash (because rubbery muscle is still the most beloved big-wave rider, Andrew Marr: “It’s an incredible
best shock absorber). feeling to try and live for the day – but you have to remember
I am resolute that there is something profoundly spiritual that you also need a little brekkie on the table.
about the act of paddling into giant waves, ridden far out to “You can’t live entirely for the day; there is also tomorrow.”

92
HAPPY TRAVELER
If you're looking for a good-wave board, a bigger-wave board or a do-it-all
exploration and adventure board, the Happy Traveler is it! Proven in conditions
around the world and in some of the most dreamy and serious surf, the Traveler Shaper Britt Merrick Tel (+27) 82 453 4361
is the one-board travel quiver you’ll need for all your most memorable Dimensions 6’2” x 19 ¼” x 2 9⁄16” – 32.3L IG @cisurfboards_africa
experiences ahead. Fin Set-up Thruster Email [email protected]

CI 2.PRO
Meet our entry into Stab In The Dark 2023, the CI 2.Pro. The CI 2.Pro boasts the
same outline and bottom contours that won the 2022 SITD with Jack Robinson, but
introduces added speed via the reduced rocker, making it easier to surf for a wider Shaper Britt Merrick Tel (+27) 82 453 4361
range of surfers in a greater variety of waves. The CI 2.Pro is the next step in our Dimensions 6’1” x 19 ¼” x 2 ½” – 31.2L IG @cisurfboards_africa
goal of ultimate performance. Fin Set-up Thruster Email [email protected]

THE HOOLIGAN
Introducing The Hooligan, a collaborative design by Graham and Jordy that
delivers exceptional performance in small waves and average conditions.
This versatile groveller combines a flatter rocker, straighter outline and deeper Shaper Graham Smith Tel (+27) 31 368 4022 IG @smthshapes
concave to create a board that offers speed and manoeuvrability, making it the Dimensions 6’0” x 20” x 2 7⁄16” – 32L Web www.smthshapes.com FB Smth Shapes
perfect choice for everyday conditions. Fin Set-up FCSII and Futures Email [email protected]

V12
Meet the SMTH V12 – you may have seen the prototype under Jordy’s feet at
the Margaret River Pro. This is something new: a high-performance shape Shaper Graham Smith Tel (+27) 31 368 4022 IG @smthshapes
for solid waves, the perfect addition to your winter quiver. Check the website Dimensions 6’2 x 19 x 2 ⅝ – 32.6L Web www.smthshapes.com FB Smth Shapes
smthshapes.com for more information and to order your board. Fin Set-up Thruster Email [email protected]
TOO FISH
An evolution of Rob's popular 'Go Fish' model from 2017, updated with lessons
he learned from the Seaside, this all-new Too Fish model is built in Firewire
Surfboards Helium Technology for light and lively response underfoot. It has Shaper Rob Machado Tel (+27) 42 293 1679 Web www.firewiresurfboards.com
significant durability improvements over other surfboard-building methods, given Dimensions 5’0” – 6’3” Addr Michael Ginsberg at Email [email protected]
the use of aerospace deck skins on the top and bottom of the board as well as a rail Fin Set-up Twin – Futures Country Feeling Surfshop,
comprising paulownia and balsa wood for controlled flex and rebound in turns. Jeffreys Bay

MASHUP
Two minds combined.
Rob Machado and Dan Mann have created the Mashup: a melding of each of their
most popular designs, the Seaside and the Spitfire. Both board designers have
spent time mixing and matching their favourite elements of each shape, and Shaper Rob Machado & Dan Mann Tel (+27) 42 293 1679 Web www.firewiresurfboards.com
they’ve landed up with something that goes fast in weak waves just as well as Dimensions 5’2” – 6’6” Addr Michael Ginsberg at Email [email protected]
a Seaside, and also drives vertically in good waves as well as the Spitfire. The Fin Setup 5-fin Country Feeling Surfshop,
Mashup is the ultimate groveller – and the ultimate everyday board as well. Jeffreys Bay

FRK PLUS IBOLIC

The FRK Plus is a classic high-performance squash-tail shortboard, refined and
calibrated over the past three years with Kelly, Brodi, Betty Lou and others. This
new squash version of the FRK is meant to be ridden slightly shorter than the
original FRK round-tail. It has all the on-wave benefits of the original FRK, with Shaper Dan Mann Tel (+27) 42 293 1679 Web www.firewiresurfboards.com
a touch more release through turns that comes from the squash tail, and minor Dimensions 5’06” – 6’04” Addr Michael Ginsberg at Email [email protected]
adjustments to how the concaves and fin placements relate to the increased Fin Set-up 5-fin or futures Country Feeling Surfshop,
surface area of the squash when compared to a round-tail. Jeffreys Bay

DOMINATOR 2.0
The Dominator II is a revisited version that I’m super-excited about. The Dominator Shaper Mannkine Tel (+27) 42 293 1679 Web www.firewiresurfboards.com
has been a staple in my quiver and in the Firewire line since its inception in 2008; Dimensions 5’2” – 6’10” Addr Michael Ginsberg at Email [email protected]
the DM II is a clean update of the original, with design features that allow it to Fin Setup 5 fin Country Feeling Surfshop,
work well in a wider range of conditions, and that enhance its performance. Jeffreys Bay
HAMMER
Twin-fin mid-length with channels. The break in the outline keeps the rail straight
and makes the board go through the weakest sections, yet the 'wings' help it turn
and pivot on a dime. The feedback we’ve been getting on this model has been so Shaper Mat Marais Tel (+27) 72 641 8003 FB Matsurfboards
positive, we’ve been sending it to all our agents and outlets internationally. It’s Dimensions 6’6” to 8’0” Addr 14 Rumboll Street, Strand IG @Matsurfboards
been the top mid model. Fin Set-up FCSII or futures Email [email protected]

HOD
This model comes in a squash-thumb or swallowtail, and has been making
finals and winning events over the last 12 months. Our team riders are raving
about theirs, and keep on using them in all their events. Medium rocker, single Shaper Mat Marais Tel (+27) 72 641 8003 FB Matsurfboards
concave, soft rail and perfect volume distribution make the HOD a feel-good Dimensions 5’5” to 6’8” Addr 14 Rumboll Street, Strand IG @Matsurfboards
everyday driver for everyone who takes their surfing seriously. Fin Set-up FCSII or futures Email [email protected]

THE HGL
We took a traditional fish and stretched it out, to achieve a more modern
performance outline but still maintain the friendly features of a fish. This board is Shaper Justin Sykes Tel (+27) 76 165 4582
one of a kind, and it's super-forgiving. Anyone who wants to work less when they Dimensions 5’11” x 19 ¾” x 2 ¾” – 34.4L IG Sykes_surfboards_
surf, and have way more speed and fun – this is the one for you. Fin Set-up Thruster, futures

CRYPTO
This is a good-wave board designed to give you drive and hold while still allowing
manoeuvrability. It has a single-to-double concave with low rails. Shaper Justin Sykes Tel (+27) 76 165 4582
Dimensions 6’0” x 18 ⅝” x 2 7⁄16” – 28L IG Sykes_surfboards_
We also accept Bitcoin as payment for this model. Fin Set-up Thruster, futures
VORTEX
This is a more refined version of the original Slab Stick. It has a slightly
more pulled-in tail, and a bit more tail kick. It was designed to surf loose in
the pocket, with no rails catching in and out of turns.The rocker has been
reworked to a more continuous curve to allow a much more even feel while
bottom turning. The full single-to-double concave gives the board speed as
you take off, and gives you full control while turning in the pocket or doing Shaper Justin Healy Tel (+27) 82 256 7544 FB Waveworx Surf Co
bigger arcing turns. The rails have been refined to control the power in the Dimensions 6’6” x 19 ⅜” x 2 11⁄16” – 36.2L Addr 9 Manchester Rd, Hout Bay, IG @waveworxsurfboards_estd1990
wave. Designed for surf in the 4- to 8-foot wave range. Fin Set-up 3 or 5 fin combo Cape Town Email [email protected]

THE EL NINO
The El Nino is for powerful surf in the overhead to double-overhead range.
The wide point is slightly forward, which puts more volume under the chest for
paddling and getting into heaving waves. The rails and tail are pulled in just enough
to get through barrels and give you complete control through high-speed turns,
while losing none of the responsiveness of a regular shorty. The perfect board for Shaper Simon Fish Tel (+27) 855 77794 IG @fishstixsurf
reef breaks like you get in Indo, SA point breaks and A-framing beach breaks like Dimensions 6’0” to 7’6” Addr St Francis Bay, South Africa
Dunes, Durban Piers or your local beachy on the day of the year Fin Setup FCSll or Futures Web www.fishstixssurfboards.co.za

THE PHANTOM
The Phantom is the step-down version of John John Florence's current favourite
model, the Ghost. We kept hearing that the Ghost worked best in waves shoulder-
high and up; so we looked at making a step-down board that would bring that
same feel to the head-high-and-under waves that make up most of our daily surf Shaper Jon Pyzel Cell (+27) 76 545 6245
sessions. The Phantom is a Ghost squashed down, souped up, and with added Dimensions 5’10” x 20” x 2 9⁄16” - 29.9L Web www.pyzelsurfboards.co.za
volume – great for your everyday sessions in less-than-epic conditions. Email [email protected]
BIG D
Shaped for Mike Elliot.
This mid-length was aptly named the Big D by Mike’s mates when he went
on a boat trip with them. He usually doesn’t surf that much in town, and
his go-to is a 6’8’’. Because he hadn’t surfed that much, he decided to
step it up and get a mid-length. Result: he had the most fun, and ended up Shaper Glen Row Tel (+27) 82 895 5460 FB growsurfboards
catching more waves than any of them. Dimensions 7’2” x 21 ½” x 2 ⅞” - 47.5L Addr 4 Dorsetshire Street, IG @growsurfboards
Get yourself a Grow Big D – guaranteed to perform! Paarden Eiland Email [email protected]

SANGOMA Shaper Laurie Holmes Tel (+27) 82 455 2182

Our most popular inverted rail model. Flat bottom, vee out the tail in a four-fin Dimensions 5’5” x 21” x 2 ½” - 35L Web www.holmesbros.co.za
set up. Super-high-performance in 2- to 6-ft waves. Fin Set-up Quad

THE EASY TWIN PIN

The Easy is for those who enjoy paddling and riding slightly longer boards,
but want the drag-free feeling of the twin. A decent amount of vee with a Shaper Hugh Thompson Tel (+27) 83 360 0003 FB Natural Curve
slight double concave running through the tail makes for easy surfing in Dimensions 6’8” x 21” x 2 ¾” Addr Shop No. 1 Da Gama Road, IG @hugh_thompson101
most conditions and all-size waves. Fin Setup Twin Jeffreys Bay Email [email protected]

ANOMALY Shaper Dennis Ellis Tel (+27) 83 735 4865 FB theboardroomsa

This shape involves a toe- and heelside-specific tail contour and fin Dimensions 5'5" x 20" x 2 ⅝" – 30L Addr 48 Brickmakers Kloof, IG @dennisellis6393
configuration to match the differing dynamics of front and backside turns. Fin Set-up Quad / twin South End, Port Elizabeth Email [email protected]
 SQUIRREL’S NUT BUTTER HEY DUDE
ANTI-CHAFE SALVE WALLY LINNEN NATURAL KHAKI

Our original blend is made with just four all-natural ingredients:

coconut oil, cocoa butter, beeswax and vitamin-E oil. To prevent chafing The Wally embodies the Hey Dude lifestyle by combining your passions
before or during activity, apply it to your underarms, inner thighs, for comfort, quality and fashion. Designed to be your lightweight ultra-
crotch, nipples or feet, or under your bra or pack straps. comfortable Dude shoe for all occasions. Dude’s evolution of the classic
style includes an easy-on elastic lace system to allow adjustable slip-on
As our salve is an all-natural product, the consistency changes with the fit. A style designed to be worn with or without socks. Features include a
temperature. The stick is the most versatile container for both extreme soft, washed linen upper, finished with a roll-top seam and tri-panel heel
cold and moderate heat. detail plus patterned lining. Includes leather-lined memory foam insoles
with antibacterial properties.
Squirrel’s Nut Butter is best used in temperatures from below freezing
to 35°C. You can tuck the handy little 21ml stick into your hydration
pack or in the pocket of your running shorts.

ENQUIRIES ENQUIRIES
Email [email protected] IG @ squirrels_nut_butter_sa WEB www.heydudeshoes.co.za
Web www.squirrelsnutbutterafrica.com FB Squirrel’s Nut Butter SA
IG @heydude_southafrica

THULE
AION COLLECTION

Thule Aion combines versatile design and durable

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from everyday life to faraway adventures. Each
bag in the range has been made from rugged and
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Available at Thule dealers nationwide, or shop online

at www.thulestore.co.za

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 SURFYOGIS SPIDER SURFBOARDS
WARM CLIMATE ECO SUNSCREEN SKATE

Spider’s inspiration to make skateboards came from wanting to recycle

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Protect yourself and the environment with the all-natural Surfyogis with layers of cloth, carbon, and resin using the same processes as in our
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Web www.darkstardirect.co.za Tel (+27) 31 337 4230 IG @safarisurfboards
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 UMZUMBE SURF CAMP
DURBAN

Nestled within the dune forest on one of the most gorgeous beaches
in KZN, only an hour’s drive south of Durbs, you’ll find a surfers’
sanctuary. The surf camp is on a serene and subtropical private
property, with beachfront access. From the beach gate there’s a slew
of empty peaks in both directions, and the famous Umzumbe Point is
just a five-minute stroll down the beach.

• Clean and comfortable for all budgets

• Communal living, or private Bali-style bungalows
• Beachfront access
• Wifi throughout the property
• Surf coaching for all levels with Nick Njapha – professional
surfer, surf coach and surf camp manager
• Oribi Gorge hikes, bungee swing, longest zipline in South Africa
• Scuba and Free Diving at Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks
• Yoga classes and massage treatments available on site

WINTER SPECIAL! Use the code “WinterZag” for a discount on your

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ENQUIRIES
WEB www.umzumbesurfcamp.com
EMAIL [email protected]
FB UmzumbeSurfHouse
IG @UmzumbeSurfCamp

TOFINHO BEACH COTTAGES

TOFINHO

• Mozambique’s most famous surfing spot right on your doorstep

• Self-catering beach cottages enable you to watch the
morning waves while you relax on the veranda
• When conditions are ideal, which they often are, you can just
grab your board and go!
• Lovely open beaches for swimming, and interesting reefs for
fishing, snorkelling and scuba-diving
• An array of little restaurants can be found close to the local
market; and sometimes, live local music will allow you to
continue the sway out of the water

ENQUIRIES
TEL Gideon (+27) 81 438 5511
TEL Ricardo (+258) 842 9922 83
WEB www.tofo.co.mz
EMAIL [email protected]
FB TofoBeach
 SOZINHOS SURF LODGE
PALAU ASU, INDONESIA

• Your adventure awaits!

• Our camp is off the beaten track – that’s the way we like it
• We have what like-minded people dream of… perfect waves,
and no crowded lineups
• Sozinhos Surf Lodge sits on the edge of Asu Island looking
out over the Indian Ocean and our perfect left-hand reef
break, far removed from the hustle and crowds
• Immerse yourself in the view from our beach and gazebo
• There’s a lot more to us than just our wave and the seven
other local breaks, such as snorkelling, fishing, spearfishing,
island treks and much more
• We encourage our guests to get involved in our coral reef
regeneration project
• We can also arrange some amazing tours that we
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ENQUIRIES
WEB nias.surf / sozinhossurflodge.com
FB Sozinhos Surf Lodge
IG @sozinhossurflodge
TELL (+27) 82 977 4999/ (+62) 821 6314 1694
WA (+27) 82 977 4999/ (+27) 82 096 7363
 Off The Leash / ZAG 47.3

What got you into surfing? We need

to know – so that whatever it was,
we can put a stop to it right away.

G roms, man. They’re a pain in the butt at the best of times,

and now I have to write about them.
Don't tell me I was also a grom once, and I should cut them some
I’ve only recently come to terms with the fact that I might
have peaked as a surfer back then. Now, my body’s main
preoccupation is to not die.
slack. Things were very different back then. Megalodon sharks That said, nobody can surf for as long as I have and not have
cruised the lineup. Velociraptors patrolled the Golden Mile. mastered the basics. For instance, I can still wax up like a pro. I
Leashes were made of kangaroo intestines smuggled into South instinctively know which ankle to put my leash on. And I hardly
Africa by Charlie ‘Snow’ McAllister. ever forget to strap my board on the roof before driving off.
And groms were disciplined by unhinged veterans with webbed When it comes to the surfing, though, some days are
feet, and eyes that glowed in the dark. I once saw a ranking definitely worse than others. On an off-day, the casual bystander
member of the Dairy posse hit a bong and hold his breath for five might consider notifying a lifeguard to keep an eye on me. “What
hours before exhaling. Drop in on one of these mutants, and you'd a brave old man,” they’ll say, “learning to surf at his age.”
be hauled before a tribunal at Dante’s Milk Bar. The punishment I don't care. In full view of everyone in the water, I have called
for a first offence was so severe that second offences were rare. for waves and then pulled back. I’ve nosedived on take-off, and
Today's groms are hypercharged, semi-feral goblins whose blown easy turns. One time I ran over an actual grom because I
only fear is that they won’t get their 50 waves a day. thought he was a piece of kelp.
A fresh crop appeared out of nowhere at my local not too Sure, I'd prefer to be like Tich Paul. He's older than me, still
long ago. One day it was just us normal people, and the next, the riding a shortboard and snagging set waves while hustling in
entire mid-break was clogged with dozens of miniature bobbing the middle of the pack. Thing is, I'm twice his height and half as
bleached heads. fit. Okay, those are pathetic excuses, I know. But it's all I have
That’s what happens in Kommetjie. Everyone decides to shag right now.
everyone else at the same time; and ten years later, there’s So, yeah. Even though I might look like a novice on some days,
an infestation of human sea urchins, squealing in hideous I don't qualify as a grom. For a start, ‘grom’ no longer means
prepubescent voices and paddling for anything that moves. ‘beginner’. According to a survey put out by the Zag ahead of
Yep, things have changed. Even the definition of ‘grom’ isn’t this issue, you need to be under 21 to qualify as a grom.
the same as it was when I first started surfing at a beach Even though these lighties have the attention span of a panda,
called Gremmies. they were asked to answer 17 questions. I picked out a few:
That's where the word ‘grom’ comes from. Well, it comes from Where is your local break? Smart move. Bound to kick up a
‘grommet’, which in turn comes from ‘gremmie’, which comes couple of secret spots.
from ‘gremlin’. Even though I try to avoid doing research because Where do you live? Seems like a weirdly stalkerish kinda
I don't get paid enough for that kind of thing, the dictionary tells question; and yet, it’s important to know how to get hold of a
me that a gremmie is a “young or inexperienced surfer, especially grom, especially if they make a habit of snaking or dropping in.
one whose behaviour is objectionable”. Can't argue with that. Does anyone else in your family surf? If yes, who? I like the
The stretch between Addington and what's now uShaka was aggressive tone. This info is needed for the issuing of death
called Gremmies because the gentle waves were ideal for rookies threats. There are way too many people surfing, and it's time
like nine-year-old me, learning to stand up on my first board – a for proper deterrents.
sunfish-shaped human rights atrocity held together with resin What got you into surfing? We need to know, so that
and packing tape. I'd sleep over on weekends at my gran's flat whatever it was, we can put a stop to it right away.
opposite the haunted Children's Hospital, then wake up before Are you sponsored? Groms are barely old enough to drink
sunrise and stampede down three flights, coating the stairs with and drive. They don't need to be sponsored. What they need is
massive amounts of froth. Surfboards weren't allowed in the lift, to have their phones taken away and be gated from going to the
because the building was run by a fascist dictator who hated the beach for, say, the next 20 years. What kind of world would this
sea and everything to do with it. be if we all got paid to surf?
That was then, when I could surf for eight hours on nothing They need to go to work, so that some of us can get a wave in
more than adrenalin and a plate of chips from Pickin Chicken. the morning.

107
 The steely-eyed focus of Jordy Smith as a grom,
sliding through another section at New Pier. ©VAN GYSEN
 Jordy Smith On Groms / ZAG 47.3

On Groms
By Jordy Smith

Ithink there’s two bits of advice.

From the age group of 12 and under, it’s more catered towards parents. I
obviously see a lot of parents who really want it for the child. And I don’t
know if that’s really them wanting it for themselves, secretly.
The first thing to identify would be the stoke of the kid, at such a young
age. Identifying how stoked that kid is and how passionate he is about
surfing, in all its forms, is probably the most important thing, for a parent.
And then, just being able to facilitate their stoke and their passion
towards it. That’s going to be the sign of how far they’re willing to take it.
How much they’re really in love with it. And then the main thing, at that
age, is just to surf as much as you can.
You can tell a kid that as much as you want, but it’s up to them to decide
how much they’re in love with it, and how much the stoke actually fuels
them to go and do it. Because that’s going to determine how passionate
they’re going to be about surfing.
And at that age, it’s not necessarily about results. It’s about having fun,
and it’s about spending all day at the beach. 12 to 18 is the first big jump in a
surfer’s career. That’s where you see a surfer develop a lot. You can start to
get coaching, and develop a certain style and identify a direction to take.
I’ve always felt that you get early developers and you get late
developers, and there’s a lot of cases where a late developer has a natural
ability. You look at Travis Logie, I think he only started surfing at 12 or 13
years old. And then, within two or three years, he was beating guys who’d
been surfing most of their lives. Another case is McGillivray Matty, a late
developer – moved to PE, and was able to pick it up really fast.
In my experience, around 15 years old was the turning point for me.
That’s when I started to travel, and see the level worldwide. I would
always surf an age group above me, to try and better my skills and up my
experience. That was something my dad identified.
So my advice would be to stay true to yourself; and for the parents,
to try and facilitate as much as you can… but let them work it out.

The kids have to decide

for themselves how
badly they want it.

109
1 2

4 6
 5

©WHETOAYENI

Check Out
Meanwhile in Nigeria...

T he back-to-back swells that hit

Skeleton Bay marched northwards,
lighting up points, beachies and wedges
8
in Angola, Sao Tome, Congo and Gabon,
and eventually hitting the harbour mouth
of Lagos, Nigeria. Here’s one of Tarkwa
Bay’s mightiest groms, Monday Anthony,
sliding neatly through the cavern.

111
Sandile Mqadi in front of the iconic door (painted by Mook Lion Chapman) of SNSC's Point Surf Club. ©SIMAL
 A Quiet Revolution / ZAG 47.3

A Quiet Revolution
As told to Andy Davis

Sandile Mqadi, affectionately known as ‘Coach’, is in many ways the godfather

of black surfing in KwaZulu-Natal. As the Country Director of Surfers Not Street
Children, the work he does through his organisation makes an outsized contribution
to the diversity and transformation of surfing in South Africa, from the grassroots all
the way to the pointy edge of competitive surfing. This is his story, in his own words.

M y name is Sandile Mqadi; but some people call me Cyril,

because in the old days you must have an English name.
It was compulsory.
Surfers Not Street Children in Durban gives all these
underprivileged kids in the downtown Point area opportunities.
Without SNSC, these kids would never even know about
Surfing found me when I was 13. I’m from Umzumbe, down surfing. Now they’re being recognised by Surfing South Africa
on the South Coast. Back then, Peter Maisch gave us black kids and the World Surf League.
maybe eight or nine surfboards, and that’s how we started. He Our project helps any kids who are underprivileged, even
just dropped them at the beach one day. Any kids who wanted those from further afield. They can come to the programme
to use a board were welcome. and get that privilege of surfing for the first time. We engage
This was 1994. Me and my brother Meshack started together with these communities, and even support with food parcels
– we are twins. and social work services. Surfers Not Street Children does a lot
When we were young, we used to enjoy bodysurfing. We of good work, and for many years people did not take notice.
would take a flip-flop, and use it as a hand plane. Then But now they do!
somebody threw away an old bodyboard sponge, so we used to Surfing benefits these kids, especially those who come from
take that to try and float. That’s how we started. the streets. They come here and start to appreciate where
In those days it was difficult, because we never had wax. they come from and where they are now. Through surfing they
We used to take a candle and wax the boards like that, but it achieve some success, and then they get a better reputation in
doesn’t work well. And for a leash, we’d use the rope from a the community and on the streets.
tent. There’s a caravan park near our home, and we’d get the At the moment we’re trying to bring more girls into the
ones they’d throw away. It was so sore to use that as a leash! programme. And we’re trying to assist those girls who are
The local surf club – it’s called Localism Surf Club – used to underprivileged at the same time. We have to do more for
encourage us to compete in their development programme. women, because they are not recognised in this sport. We have
We’d have to surf, and then judge. That’s what the club is all surfing, but there are no girls!
about. And that’s how I became more involved in judging. Surfing is nice for kids – maybe they get abuse at home,
I surfed some competitions. I came second in the Ugu but when they come surfing, they bring that smile. They know
District. Then at national level, under Surfing South Africa, I when they come here there’s someone who loves them, who
was supposed to go surf in England and Ireland; but I got sick cares for them.
that time, and couldn’t go. The ocean can heal them. Especially in our culture.
Mostly, I like to shortboard. When you see me longboarding, My family used to hate the ocean. They believed it is the
you must know it’s because the waves are not that great. It’s place where they purify their sin. “You can’t go play there.” And
heavy to carry that thing down to the beach. because I’m a twin – twins are not allowed to swim.
I used to judge a lot of local competitions; then KZN Surfing I used to go through the bush to get to the beach, so no one
pushed me to Surfing South Africa, and I moved up. They could see me. Every single day I lived that life. One day my
got me to do a judging course. I went with the SA team to dad caught me, and he gave me a hiding. A fisherman saw me
Australia, I did a judging seminar there. That was the first time surfing, and he told my dad.
I used a computer to judge. After that, I went to many places But I didn’t stop. Surfing, to me, is everything. Like, my
as a judge. I was in Salvador last year. Puerto Rico, Japan, father and my mother. I enjoy to be there, in the ocean; it feels
California, Sri Lanka… I never thought surfing would take me like you are home.
this far. It was always just for fun.

113
ZAG 47.3 / A Quiet Revolution

“ The ocean can heal them.

Especially in our culture.”

Members of the Point Surf Club pose in the empty (now-filled)

Rachel Finlayson Pool on the Durban beachfront. ©SIMAL

We used to go and steal sugarcane from the farm, sit on the But the environment is tough in Durban; when the kids get
beach till six o’clock at night. I didn’t want to go home. Just to a certain age, it’s like they’re becoming mentally disturbed.
surf and eat sugarcane and fruit all day. There were bananas Surfing is a very good sport. But if you go home, you need some
on the farm, and mangoes in the forest. Every day. place where there are no bad influences. In a place where there
My family didn’t like it. But when I was participating in surf are no gangs, all these kids would be successful.
competitions and getting publicity in the newspaper, they Surf culture gives these kids a sense of belonging, and
relaxed a bit. Even today, they still respect the old beliefs. teaches them not to be rude. At home, people say they’ve got
My aunt once told me, you can’t go to the ocean, because attitude; but when they’re here at the beach, at the surf club,
there’s a turtle that lives there and the turtle is angry and they’re not like that. Sometimes we’ve heard that a kid is even
holding the kids under the rocks. She tried to scare us. One of robbing people at home, but when he’s here he makes sure he
the local kids drowned, and they had the police scuba divers doesn’t rob anyone. He’s on his best behaviour. He’s fine. He’s
coming to look for the body. She told us that this turtle was here to surf. Most of them respect the space.
angry and was holding the kid. She said the scuba diver went to At SNSC we fuse surfing with mentorship and care. So it’s
the turtle and said, please release the kid, but the turtle didn’t not like surfing will fix everything, but it plays a big part in
want to. She told me I must not surf, or I’ll end up like that. the change.
I listened to them, but I just laughed, because I know the Me, I don’t like to talk. I like action. Talk doesn’t make sense.
ocean. There was nothing like that. I had seen many turtles Action, that’s the thing. I don’t talk.
before, and they never did anything to me. I feel very happy to see surfing develop here. Before, we
So Peter Maisch gave us boards, encouraged us to surf in were only a few guys. My dream is for these kids to compete.
competitions, and then judge. And if your board was broken, These kids are coming to the beach with no rules – some of
you have to sacrifice, and walk all the way to Peter Maisch’s the people, they never thought in their life that they could do
farm to fix it. something like this. They always appreciate it.
Surf, coach, judge, fix the dings. These kids today must cover One day we had a lady visit from Soweto, old lady, maybe 70
all those things. If they never understand that culture, they will years old. She’d never been in the ocean. She never thought we
never know what surfing is all about. could use these things, not even to touch.
We want to bring respect. Respect and humility. A lot of She was brave. She was so happy when the wave carried her.
these kids have grown up without that. Surfing culture can lift She said to me, “Coach! Bless! Now I can die.” That’s what she
people from a lower level to a higher level. told me. “It was my dream, to touch this.”

114
 WINTER 2023
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